Mallet. "Mallet". It would seem that it could be easier. A pen with a blank, prick. But no, there are many types of mallets. The most successful form is the "grenade". Knock with either end, not like a hammer. And people came up with a mallet not anyhow, but with goals:

Make the work of the cutter convenient and enjoyable

To exclude, if possible, occupational diseases of carvers associated with shock loading on the hands and wrists

Increase the service life of both mallets and chisels

For example, a beater can be wooden and beautiful:

But after a few months of work, all this beauty turns into something like this washcloth:

There are also mallets dressed in bronze - so that the blow is more powerful:

Good mallet! Wonderful! But is it necessary to show what the handles of chisels turn into? Only chisels reinforced with metal rings can withstand the blows of such a sledgehammer...

Or here, too, it would seem a good solution - a rubber head.

But .. it painfully bounces off the handle of the chisel upon impact ...

Mikhail Ilyaev works with Stepan Erzia's mallet, made of quebracho, the heaviest tree in Argentina:

Michael told a funny story. One mischievous neighbor, an old woman, began to complain about him "where necessary" for the constant knocking on the balcony. Mikhail was upset, began to look for compromises. Here is one of them. Rubber blotches from crutches went into action, put it on with a stretch on the handle and the swotting became more muffled:

It was even more detective! As Ilyaev says, it seems like God heard him: that malicious neighbor soon left home from his house, and a DEAF INTELLIGENT OLD WOMAN settled in her place, with whom Mikhail became friends. These are the wonders...

Ideal Solution

In preparing the article, a forum discussion was used:
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php/topic,317.0.html

The word "mallet", despite its ornate sound, denotes the name of a special carpentry wooden hammer. The name of this instrument is derived from the word "cue". So, the Slavs have long called a big stick or club. Now mallets are made not only from wood, but they also come in various shapes and sizes.

It is a necessary tool in the arsenal of any home craftsman in situations where the processing of the material requires strong and at the same time soft blows.

How is the tool arranged?

The mallet consists of a shock part (striker) and a handle (handle). The striker comes in a variety of shapes and is made from a variety of materials depending on the application. The handle is attached to the through hole of the head, which has the shape of a cone, so that the impact part does not fall out during operation. Most often, the handle of a mallet is made of the following elements:

• hardwood trees, for example, mountain ash, birch, ash, maple, elm;
• strikers are made of dense viscous wood, for example, elm, hornbeam;
• durable rubber or fluoroplast (highly resistant polymer).

Characteristic

Wooden mallets are the so-called classic version of this instrument. They are used to give shape to various structures in assembly and dismantling work. Hammers with a wooden striker have a clearer and more accurate strike, unlike a rubber striker. Such a wooden hammer is easy to make yourself at home.

To protect against mold, rot, drying out, the heads and handles of mallets are covered with drying oil.

The form

The impact part of a wooden mallet, depending on the functions performed, can have several forms.

• Round striker. It is used for assembly and straightening processes. For example, dents in metal are straightened with such a hammer. In addition, these mallets are often required for laying paving slabs and paving stones.
• Rectangular impact surface. It is used when chiseling material together with a chisel and a chisel. It is also suitable for roofing and seaming, making permanent joints with seam seams.
• Square shape. The purpose of such a striker is roofing and folding.

Types and scope of their application

Most often, wooden hammers are used by those who are engaged in carpentry along with a chisel and a chisel, since their handles contain a crimp ring. Wooden mallets come in several types.

• Carpentry. They have flat voluminous sides. The striker of these hammers is flat on one side with a smooth impact surface, and on the other is rounded. The ends are cut at an angle of 6–7 degrees to the axis of the handle and are not parallel to it. The handle is attached in front of the striker, where the rounded edge is located. These tools are used for grooving with a chisel or chisel to knock out cutters.
• Locksmith or tin. In such hammers, the striker is in the shape of a rectangle. The rounded handle is slightly tapered on one side. In this part, a cut is made and a wedge is inserted. These mallets are used for processing metal sheets, for straightening and folding.
• Turning. All parts of such a wooden hammer are made on a lathe. It is recommended for the same work as a plumbing mallet.

Dimensions and weight

The standard for the size of these hammers is a molding mallet with rubber strikers (GOST 19645 - 74). The classic instrument is 30 centimeters long and weighs about 300 grams. If we systematize a wide range of tasks where the impact of a wooden hammer is necessary, then for fine work it is customary to choose mallets of small sizes, for rough ones they should be larger. So, wooden hammers weighing up to 300 grams are used for various processing of wooden products, and for straightening (correcting irregularities) of metal, a tool weighing more than 1 kilogram is required.

The length of the handle can also be very different, but you need to take into account the fact that the longer it is, the stronger the blow will be.

Secrets of correct use

The principle of operation with a mallet is not much different from using a conventional hammer. But in this case there are secrets for its correct application, namely:

• if you have little experience with this tool, then start with simple tapping and carefully evaluate the result;
• an important condition for the qualitative use of a mallet is the contact of the striker of the tool along its entire length with the material being processed; if this rule is not observed, dents will remain on the metal;
• if you have to level sheet metal with a slight thickness, then be sure to use a wood substrate, because it will equalize the excess of the applied efforts;
• when using a mallet with a chisel and a chisel, strike with precisely calculated force, otherwise a lot of excess material will be cut off;
• when laying the tiles, do not apply hard blows to the corners, use only light taps to level the surface.

To choose the right quality wooden hammer, You should carefully read the following tips from experienced craftsmen:

• if you have a large amount of carpentry work, then choose a tool with a wooden striker;
• pay attention to what wood the head is made of, since the impact surface must be made of dense, viscous wood (birch, oak, beech, maple, pear);
• ideally, the striker and handle of the mallet should be made from different types of trees, which will significantly reduce the impact from impact during operation;
• carefully inspect the appearance of the hammer, do not buy a wooden tool with a poorly finished surface;
• give preference to mallets with olive coating.

A mallet is a simple, inexpensive and very versatile tool. If, when buying, carefully study not only the appearance, but also the technical characteristics of a wooden hammer, then such a product will last a very long time. A mallet will always help you out where you need to forcefully act on an object without damaging its surface.

How to make a mallet with your own hands, see the video below.

When the material being processed requires powerful and at the same time soft blows, a wooden hammer comes to the aid of the master. This tool with an unusually shaped striker is often used by joiners, carpenters and many other professions. A mallet, simple in its structure, becomes a real salvation when it is necessary to act on an object with force without damaging its surface. Like the models of this tool, the technological processes for its manufacture are different. In this article, we will talk about the areas of application of the mallet and share a detailed guide to creating this hammer from a minimum set of materials.

Scope of the mallet

The use of a wooden hammer extends to many areas of activity. Most often, the mallet is found in carpentry, where it is used in conjunction with a chisel or chisel. The dimensions and weight of the tool used in this industry can vary significantly. In addition to the hammer design that we are used to, the mallet can have a turning shape (turned on a machine tool) and be used in figured wood cutting.

No less widespread, the tool received in plumbing. A mallet is used when it is necessary to break a jammed part from its place or straighten dents in sheet metal. For such work, a wooden hammer with a round striker is used. Rubber mallets are less effective in plumbing, as they have a less distinct impact, unlike wooden mallets.

The assembly and dismantling of furniture has also not bypassed this loyal tool, where it is used to tightly connect parts with a decorative surface. A mallet (or an inertialess hammer) greatly facilitates the laying of paving slabs when it is necessary to tamp an object in an adhesive solution. These are not all areas where such a device can be used. If you have seen the potential of this tool, then you will find instructions on how to make a mallet with your own hands from wood.

Technological map of the mallet

(adsr) Wooden hammers can have a wide variety of shapes: with rectangular or cylindrical heads, round, oval and even carved handles. Each craftsman, who independently manufactures a tool for personal use, tries to make it the most convenient and at the same time proceeds from his own capabilities. Some may have at their disposal a functional workshop with a workbench, a sawmill and a cutter, while others have only a saw and a sheet of sandpaper at hand. Below we will give several options for assembly drawings of a mallet product so that you can accurately determine the design of your future tool and do not encounter problems in its manufacture

The above technological map for making a mallet describes the simplest process for manufacturing this device. Instead of a workbench, in the fourth step, you can round the handle with a planer and sanding paper, as indicated in the adjacent instructions. Drilling workbench, can be easily replaced with a conventional drill.

The above instructions require the obligatory presence of a lathe, and demonstrates how to make not only a convenient, but also a beautiful tool. For the most accurate resemblance to the sketch, it is better to use templates. This drawing of a mallet (or educational map) is aimed at the production of an instrument in large volumes and in an equipped workshop, but with proper experience it can be repeated at home.

1. Before starting the process of creating a mallet, it is important to decide what kind of wood it will be made of. The best wood for the striker is birch, oak, beech, pear or maple. The handle is best made from birch, mountain ash, maple, ash or elm. To make a mallet, you will need only 3 pieces of wood with dimensions of 120x90x18 (for the striker) and one for 350x40x18 (for the handle). To work, you need a saw for wood, wood glue, as well as a clamp or vice to clamp the product while it dries.

2. After picking up and sawing the material, we clean it with sandpaper.

3. From the diagram above, it can be seen that the central part of the striker is a groove for the handle. Since the width of the handle is 40 mm, and the striker is 120 mm, we need to measure and cut out pieces of 40 mm from the edges, as indicated in the photo below.

4. We assemble the parts of the striker, leaving a groove for further fastening the handle. We apply glue, clamp it with a clamp or vice and wait for it to dry completely (at least 2 hours).

5. While the striker is sticking together, you can shape the handle by smoothing the corners at the grip. For this, it is most convenient to use a cutter. If there is no such tool in your arsenal, you can trim the edges with an ax or a chisel, and then clean it with sandpaper.

6. When the striker is completely dry, it is recommended to file its side (impact) parts slightly at a slight angle. In order not to make a mistake in the slope, we simply mark 10 mm from the lower parts of the striker and draw a line to them from the upper corners. The bottom line is that the striker is not rectangular, but prismatic, as in the photo below.

If you need a wooden mallet but only have a basic set of tools, this article is for you. All you need is a saw, a clamp, some wood glue and sandpaper. If you have a miter saw, drill and router, that's great, as they can come in handy when finishing, but this is not at all necessary. Ready? Then go ahead!

Wooden mallet: necessary materials

Hammers are usually made from hardwood, but you can use whatever you like. Wood in contrasting colors will look beautiful. We will use meranti and white oak.

Since our mallet will be made according to the “sandwich” principle, all wooden elements must be of the same thickness. In our case, this is 20 mm, but both 25 and 30 mm will do if you like it better.

• handle: 320×35 mm (and 20 mm thick) in oak;
• striker: 500 × 70 × 20 mm;
• keys (optional): 2 elements with a diameter of 9 mm and a length of 70 mm.

Wooden mallet: necessary tools

Necessarily:

• saw;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• clamps.

Optional:

• a template in the form of a square or just a right angle;
• Miter saw;
• milling cutter;
• drill.

Cut out the elements of the future mallet

We cut out the elements from the tree of the required size. Choose the width of the handle so that the future mallet is as convenient as possible for you (we will have 35 mm). The same applies to the length (we will have 320 mm). For the striker, we cut out two elements 140 mm wide and two elements 60 mm wide.

We connect the elements of the mallet to each other

Make sure that all elements have a smooth and even surface at the junction. Lay one of the wide striker elements on a small piece of wood (this is to ensure that the clip does not leave marks on the face of the striker). All other parts of the mallet will be attached to this element.

Place the handle on it strictly in the center and at a right angle using a ruler. After you manage to find the right position, fix it with a clamp. Make marks with a pencil in case the clip comes off (but try not to let it happen).

Apply a thick layer of wood glue to the inner surface of the element on one side of the handle. Glue a short element of the striker to it, remembering to ensure that all corners are straight. The edge will stick out, but it's not scary - then we will cut it off. Fix this part properly with a clamp. Remove excess glue with a rag.

Now detach the handle, apply glue to it and stick it in place. You can make the handle stick out of the firing pin. We will make it so that it is flush. Make sure that all corners are straight and the handle is exactly in the middle.

Take the second short element of the striker and do the same with it as with the first. Make sure that the top and bottom of all elements are at the same level, and the handle fits snugly against them.

Let the glue dry, leaving the product for 24 hours. Check that the inner surface is smooth and even. Use sandpaper if necessary. Glue the second long element of the striker and fix it with a clamp. Remember to reuse a piece of unwanted wood so as not to damage the front surface.

Intermediate result

And so, we should get an unsightly mallet with protruding edges. Need to fix this!

Step you can skip

We will also drive dowels into the striker of our mallet. They do not perform any function other than decorative. When it comes to wood, glue provides a stronger connection than dowels, so they won't make the weather worse. But they look beautiful! Drill holes through the striker, apply glue to the dowels and drive them into the striker. After the glue dries, cut them flush.

And one more step you can skip

Often the handle sticks out on mallets, but we make it flush. Therefore, cut off the end of the handle sticking out from the other side of the striker.

We give the striker of the mallet the required angle

The angle of the striker should be such that its surface is approximately parallel to your hand when you hold the mallet in it. You can choose the angle that is convenient for you or just make 4 degrees, as in our article. You can use a miter saw, but a hand saw will do. The main thing is to make notes in advance and cut carefully. If you don't have a protractor, just go online and print out any goniometer, then use it as a stencil.

We bring the surface of the mallet to perfection

Sand the mallet with sandpaper. Enjoy the work you've done. If you have a router, you can create smooth curves on the handle at the grip. If you do not have a router, you can simply sand the edges. You can also make a rounding at the end of the handle. In general, give your product the desired look.

We process the surface

Mix beeswax and mineral oil and process the product. Our homemade mallet is ready! Now you have a convenient and beautiful handmade tool. Rather, try it out at work!

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Of the two mallets of the same size, the plastic one is heavier than the wooden one. It is convenient for working with thin sheet metal. Therefore, it is readily used by roofers and tinsmiths, especially since it is less “noisy”. For its manufacture does not require special skills, expensive materials and special tools.

It will take

To make a plastic mallet that is beautiful in appearance, easy to use and reliable for many years, we must prepare the following materials:

• A canister or two, it all depends on the size. Suitable are those made of low pressure polyethylene (HDPE, HDPE);
• wooden blank (maple, cherry, etc.);
• linseed oil.

The presence of the following tools and equipment will help to perform work at a modern technical level:

• electric furnace and building hair dryer;
• drilling machine and jigsaw;
• cutter, grinder and grinder;
• planer, knife and spatula;
• clamps, chisel and hammer;
• wooden form.

Manufacturing technology of a plastic mallet

As a raw material for a plastic mallet, we use products made of high-density polyethylene, which is not subject to cracking.
We cut the plastic into pieces before melting with a construction knife, carefully removing stickers, labels, traces of glue, etc.

The crushed raw materials, folded on a metal baking sheet, are placed in an electric furnace heated to about 125 degrees Celsius, at which the plastic softens and begins to melt.

If it turns out that after melting the mass is insufficient, then you can add more raw materials on top of it and heat it all up again.

While the polyethylene is melting, we will make a handle for the plastic head. From a wooden board according to the markup, we cut out the workpiece with a jigsaw.
Then we process it with a manual planer, giving the tree the desired profile and section. The edges of the workpiece are rounded off with a mechanical milling head. We clean and grind the handle with a grinder with a grinding disc.

We take out a baking sheet with molten polyethylene from the electric oven and, prying it with a spatula, put it in a wooden box, heating the mass with hot air from a building hair dryer.

As soon as the softened plastic is in the box, we cover it on top with a punch lid, and press it in with clamps, while other stops keep the bottom and side walls of the box from moving.

After the plastic mass has hardened and taken on a rectangular shape, we remove the clamps, disassemble the box and remove the blank of the mallet head. Using a jigsaw, we give the plastic block the required size and shape.

We make a through hole in the head blank for the handle on a drilling machine. With a chisel and a hammer, we expand and modify the round drilling to a rectangular one, in which the inlet section is larger than the outlet.

We put a plastic head on a wooden handle. Due to the tapered section of the hole and the handle, the fastening is reliable and durable without additional efforts and elements. We remove the head and finally bring the dimensions and correct the shape on the grinder.
We assemble the mallet again and grease the handle with linseed oil. Such impregnation will increase the service life of the handle, protecting it from the penetration of moisture into it.

Working with a plastic mallet is much more convenient and efficient compared to a wooden mallet due to its compactness, weight and lack of rebound.