How to install a single switch. How to correctly install and connect the light switch in the bath: detailed instructions in photographs. Cross switch application

Many things can be done with your own hands, but not every seemingly simple thing can be done by any home craftsman. The installation of the switch, like the socket, can be carried out according to the European standard, or at least following common sense. But in any case, it must be safe and reliable.

For comparison, we can recall the purpose of a mass switch in a car: safety and economy are the main criteria for high-quality and “smart” devices that surround us every day.

Installing an outlet in a room: what does it cost us to build a house

An electrical point of the socket type is installed in places where access to the electrical power network is required. This means that the installation of one or more points in a particular room begins with thinking about the location of the outlets - you need to take into account possible places for furniture, height above the floor, distance from other objects that can interact or, conversely, affect the operation of the outlet, etc.

If a few decades ago it required the use of almost a jackhammer, then the current building and finishing materials have equated this procedure, for example, with the installation of a plinth. Indeed, today the laying of electrical wiring and, at the same time, the installation of electrical outlets have become commonplace procedures that do not require much effort.

Scheme 1 - Location of sockets, switches

But despite the ease of installation, the requirements for electrical safety rules remained the same.

So, for example, the installation height of a switch or socket - absolutely no difference in this case - should be sufficient so that the socket cannot be flooded if a pipe breaks or a baby crawling on all fours could not reach it on its own.

All such factors are taken into account at the time of installation of the outlet, for which it is necessary to mark the wiring and installation locations of sockets and switches.

The general rules for installing sockets are: the distance to the window sill should be at least 10 cm, to the floor - at least 30 cm, to the doorway - at least 90 cm.

However, in some rooms, the rules for installing sockets may deviate from the generally accepted ones; for example, the installation height of switches and sockets in the kitchen can be equal - at least above the surface of the table or kitchen furniture. The aesthetic side requires that the height of all visible electrical points be the same, at least within the same room. Of course, for an open installation, this is easier to implement, but everything, in the end, depends on the desire.

Photo 1 - Installing the outlet

Currently, for the hidden installation of sockets, round plastic boxes are used, under which holes are drilled. Even if you have to deal with a concrete wall, a hole is drilled on the concrete with a crown, and then the remains of the wall are hollowed out with a chisel or chisel.

An alternative option is to drill holes along the intended perimeter, after which pieces of the wall are knocked out by hand.

When there is no power tool at all, a chisel and a hammer will become indispensable helpers in preparing a place for mounting a box for an outlet. To "drown" the box in the wall, you need to make a hole a centimeter and a half deeper than the box itself - after that, the plaster around the box will be able to hide everything at the wall level.

The box (socket box) is attached inside the hole with the help of building gypsum - there are enough irregularities on it, like on a concrete wall, so that it can be fixed with an aqueous solution of gypsum or plaster.

Photo 2 - Installing the outlet

The socket itself is attached to the socket either with screws or by means of sliding legs, the latter option being currently preferred, since it takes less time. After that, it remains to close only the outlet itself with a plastic case.

If the repair or finishing work in the room has not yet been completed, then the outlet holes should be plugged with paper, and the outlet itself should also be closed with something for a while.

Diagram 2 - Wiring diagram

Installation of switches of different designs: the same features

In general and in detail, the installation of switches is similar to the installation of a single socket, as mentioned above. However, there are a number of differences, especially when, for example, it is necessary to install a two-gang switch, but more on that later.

As already mentioned, the installation of switches is identical to the installation of sockets, the difference lies only in ease of use - the switch, as a rule, should be within the reach of a standing person. At the same time, access to the switch should not be blocked by anything. In addition, the installation of a two-gang, three- or more switch requires such an arrangement in which the wiring of the electrical wire would not cause any difficulties.

Scheme 3 - Scheme of the circuit breaker

Another very common misfortune is an arbitrary switch installation pattern. Rules for surface and concealed installation of switches require that the switch open the phase conductor circuit.

Indeed, any professional instruction for installing a switch shows that de-energizing the “phase” removes voltage from a certain section of the circuit and makes it possible, for example, to make minor repairs to wiring or replace incandescent lamps without disconnecting the entire room from the mains.

In real life, the arbitrary choice of interrupting the phase or neutral wires - 50 to 50 of all cases - makes the outdoor switch, however, like any other design, a source of danger.

For example, in multi-story buildings, water leaks from the top floor to the bottom. In such cases, the electrical wiring channels become the most vulnerable point and the likelihood of water ingress into them is very high. As a result, there is a short circuit in the wiring (even when it is in the “off” position) and its complete or partial failure.

However, the most dangerous is that the installation of the switch with non-compliance with the specified rule can lead to electric shock to some of the residents who may be, for example, in the bathroom and not be aware of the danger.

Scheme 4 - Schematic of the junction box

Installation of a pass-through switch: reasonable complexity

The installation of a walk-through switch is remarkable not only because of the potential problems mentioned above, but also because the wiring of such a switch is more complicated than usual.

Photo 3 - Circuit breaker

For domestic purposes, that is, where two phases are mainly used and the rated voltage is 220 V, one- and two-pole machines are used. The main difference between them is the ability to simultaneously turn off not only the "phase", but also "zero", which is more correct.

The rated current for which the device can be rated can be from 2 to 63 A.

In conclusion, it must be added that the use of circuit breakers is much more efficient than the use of fuses of the last century.

The cost of installing a switch: where is the limit of economy

The existing "trendsetters" in the electrical equipment market - VIKO, SCHNEIDER, LEGRAND, MAKEL - have long provided for many little things that are important when installing various switches. But even these achievements cannot reduce the set of small but necessary operations, a short list of which, together with their cost for Moscow and Kyiv (rubles and hryvnias, respectively) is given here:

  • installation of the cutting box - 250/45
  • installation of a one- and two-pole machine - 250/40
  • switch setting - 250/20
  • installation of a pass-through switch - 350/25

Of course, the price lists of service providers in the installation market can contain several dozen positions, and for a better understanding of what you need to pay money for, it is better to preview demonstrations like “switch installation” (video reports of specific companies will give a complete picture of the level of their services), "installation of the machine", etc.

Photo 4 - Electrical panel

First you need to decide on the type of wiring. There are two types of electrical wiring:

  • Open - wires are laid over the wall. They can be closed with plastic cable channels or mounted on decorative rollers.
  • Hidden - the cable is laid inside the wall. To do this, special channels are made in the wall, into which the wire is laid. After that, the strobes are sealed with cement mortar.

Open wiring is still used in private homes. It is especially often used by designers who create interiors in the loft or retro style. In a wooden house, according to fire safety rules, electrical wiring can only be open. Overhead switch models are selected for this type of wiring, which are mounted directly on the wall, without recessing.

What are the ways of switching the wires of the switch

Internal fastenings of wires in the switch can be different. In practice, two switching options are used.

Screw type clamp

The screw type contact is clamped with a screwdriver. To do this, approximately 2 cm of the cable is pre-stripped of insulation, then the bare wires are placed under the terminal and twisted with a screwdriver. In such a contact, it is very important that there is no insulation under the terminal, even a very small amount of it can begin to melt, which is very dangerous. This switching variant is especially suitable for aluminum wires.

However, there are drawbacks here - during operation, the wires heat up, which eventually leads to deformation of the connection. The contact in this case begins to overheat and spark. This problem can be easily solved, it is enough to tighten the screw and the wires sandwiched between the two flat contact plates will snap into place, the switch will work safely, without heat and sparks.

Non-screw clamp

This option is a pressure plate contact. The switch is equipped with a special button that adjusts the position of the plate. The connection is made very quickly and easily: the cable is stripped of 1 cm of insulation, after which it is inserted into the contact hole and clamped. The design of such a terminal ensures high reliability of the resulting switching. Non-screw terminals hold the copper wiring connection well.

Screw and non-screw terminals in general provide approximately the same quality and reliability of connections. However, for installation, especially for a novice electrician, it is easier to implement the second option correctly.

General scheme for mounting a light switch: rules for switching wires

Ignoring the basic rules for installing even such a simple device as a switch can lead to unpleasant consequences. These include overheating and sparking, with possible subsequent short circuit, fire, and even the danger of electric shock.

Therefore, before installing the switch, it is necessary to understand what the main connection elements are for and how they are used:

  1. Zero wire (zero). It is displayed on the lighting device.
  2. A wire with a phase leading to a switch. In order for the light to turn on and off, the electrical circuit must be closed within the phase core. It is important to remember that when the switch is turned to zero in the opposite direction, the device will work, but voltage will remain in the circuit. Therefore, to change a light bulb, for example, you will have to turn off the power supply in the entire room.
  3. Phase assigned to the lighting device. Pressing the on/off key will close or open the circuit at the break point of the phase wire. This is the name of the section where the phase wire ends, leading to the switch, and the segment stretched to the light bulb begins.

Thus, it turns out that only one wire is connected to the switch during installation, and two to the lighting fixture.

An important rule to remember is that all connections of conductive wire sections should be made only in the junction box. It is highly undesirable to make them in a wall or in plastic channels, since in this case complications cannot be avoided with the identification and subsequent repair of damaged areas. If there is no junction box near the installation site of the switch, you can stretch the phase and zero from the shield.

All of these rules are related to the single-gang switch. They can be extended to multi-key devices with the difference that a fragment of a phase wire from the lighting device that the key controls will be connected to each key. A wire with a phase, stretched from the junction box to the switch, will always be only one. This rule is also observed for multi-key switches.

The installation of the switch or its replacement can only be carried out with a fully formed electrically conductive circuit. Therefore, in order not to make a mistake when working with electrical wiring, you should know the marking and color of current-carrying wires:

  • The insulation of the phase core of the wire is most often white or brown.
  • Zero core insulation - blue.
  • The ground wire is usually green or yellow.

The installation of the switch and further connection to the circuit is carried out according to these color prompts. Some manufacturers additionally apply special markings to the wires. Connection points in this case are denoted by the letter L and a number. So, the phase input on a two-gang switch will be designated as L3. The lamp connection points are marked as L1 and L2. Each of them should be displayed on one of the lighting fixtures.

The order of connection of the overhead switch

Overhead switches are used not only for open wiring, but also where for some reason it is impossible to make a hidden connection. To carry out the installation of a single-gang switch of a complete factory assembly, you must first turn off the electricity supply in the switchboard, and then perform the following operations in sequence.

Switch disassembly

Using a slotted screwdriver, very carefully lift the switch key and remove it. After that, just as carefully, so as not to break, remove the protective decorative cover. Next, disconnect the operating device from the socket plate.

Marking the place for installation

On the base plate, holes are made at the factory for fixing the switch. They should be marked on the wall. To do this, attach the socket to the wall surface in the place where you need the switch, and mark the border of the upper edge with a pencil. Using a level, check its horizontal, otherwise it will not be possible to mount the device evenly. Then once again attach the plate to the wall and mark the attachment points through the holes.

Installing the socket plate

To mount the socket, you need to make holes in the wall. It will be possible to fix the plate immediately only if the material from which the wall is made is soft wood. Then you can simply fasten the socket with galvanized screws. But most often you first have to drill holes in the wall with a drill or puncher. Then securely fasten the plate to the wall.

Wire connection

Determine the type of contact switching and cut and strip the electrical cable exactly according to it. Be sure to remove all insulation at the junction so that it does not subsequently melt and cause malfunctions in the circuit breaker. Once again, check that the wires reach the terminals exactly, it is undesirable to leave excess. Connect the wires to the correct pins according to the color and markings.

Circuit breaker assembly

First, make sure that all wires are connected correctly, to do this, test them with a multimeter screwdriver or other similar device. If everything is assembled correctly, install the switch device in place. Then put on the protective decorative cover and finally latch the key. Check switch operation.

Every house has electric switch, who can truly be called a domestic worker. Therefore, each of us at least once in life faced with a problem, how to install a new switch, while not everyone knows how to do it right.

In our traditional section "Useful Tips" we will tell and show how to install the switch.

Connecting a single switch

In order to produce switch wiring, You don't have to be an electrical engineer at all. Let's put it this way: if you follow clear instructions and do not work with the voltage on, then everything will work out for you.

The basis of the principle of operation of the switch is the supply of phase to the contacts of the lamp holder. According to safety standards, zero is connected directly, without interruption, until the lamp. Therefore, you have to work only with the phase wire.

We will need break the phase wire, before it reaches the lamp, which will make it possible to control the power supply (in this case, using a switch).

Accordingly, for this, the phase wire must be "passed" through our switch in order to supply current through it, when we wish, to a conditional electric lamp. An electric lamp means any lamp or chandelier.


Zero in our case goes directly to the lamp, and this cannot be changed.

It should be noted that switches are external and internal. Outdoor switches are safer, while indoor switches are more aesthetic.

Switch location


During modern repairs, it is customary to place the light switch on the side of the door handle, and at a distance at least 10 cm from the door. The height at which the switch is placed is usually 0.9 m

However, the PUE rules (electrical installation rules) do not indicate the specific distances at which the switch should be located in the house (apartment), except for the minimum standards:

7.1.48 The switch must be located at least 0.6 m from the shower cabin.

7.1.50 From the gas pipeline, the switch must be at a distance of at least 0.5 m.

Connection order

You will need:

  • Indicator screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Level.

1. First, be sure to disconnect all wires from the power supply using circuit breakers in the control room.


2. We need to mount the socket. This is done in the same way as with the socket. You can read more about this.


3. After the socket box is mounted and the wires are laid, we remove the insulating layer from the end of the phase wire with pliers by about 1 cm.


4. Now you need to connect the incoming wire to the switch (usually indicated by the letter "L" on the socket) and the outgoing wire going to the lamp (usually indicated by an arrow pointing down). The wires are fixed to the switch using auxiliary small bolts.


5. Then we put our switch in the socket. If the design of the switch has the principle of stretching the legs, then we twist them alternately for a uniform entry of the socket into the socket. If the socket is without paws, then simply fasten the existing bolts. In this case, we use the level for a uniform location of the switch.


6. Now we snap or bolt (again, depending on the design) the outer cover of the switch.


Double switch connection


The principle of connecting a single switch and a double switch remains the same with the only difference that now we will have one entrance and two exits.

Connection diagrams to different switches can be various due to the fact that the input contact can be located in different ways (left, right, top or bottom).


To determine the input in the switch, you can use multimeter.


1. First, let's set the dialing mode on the multimeter by closing the probes of the device. After that, having heard a sound signal, we determine the input of the switch.

Do not forget! For any work with electrical wiring, be sure to completely disconnect it from the power supply.

2. We set the buttons on our switch to the "on" position.

3. We apply one multimeter probe to the intended input, and the other to the intended output. If you heard a beep, then this means that you are doing everything right, and if not, then we continue to "guess" where the entrance is and where the exit is.

4. When you find an entrance and two exits, it's best to double-check yourself. To do this, with the multimeter probes plugged in, turn on the switch with the keys. If the input and outputs were found correctly, then the signal of the device will be interrupted, and, therefore, the lamp will also turn on and off.


Advice! Of course, not everyone has such a device as a multimeter in their household. In this case, we can advise you to pay attention to the marks on the back of the switch.

As a rule, these marks mean:

  • L3 (input)
  • L1 (exit)
  • L2 (exit).


In extreme cases, you can consult the seller on this issue when buying a switch.

5. That's all. Install the switch in the socket. We fix. We install a decorative cover.

We restore the power supply and check the work done.

How to install a switch (video)

Click! A correctly operated light switch graciously instantly provided lighting in a private house. You still do not know how to install and connect it yourself? Connecting the switch is so easy!

Perhaps not to find such a house or apartment, where there would be no electric switch. The compact appearance and amazing daily performance instills respect for the switch-worker. Therefore, it is not without reason that there is an increased interest and the traditional question: “What is inside there and how does it work?”. So, meet all the secrets of a household switch or how to install and connect the switch yourself.

Connecting the switch is easy. To do this, there is no need to contact a specialized workshop at all, do it yourself, having previously studied the connection diagrams and expert recommendations. For example, Stroy-Aqua's advice helped us. com, when arranging a suburban area. The result of the "general" work is an excellent glass greenhouse, which brings a good harvest of vegetables even in spring and autumn.

Types of switches and control systems

The currently existing light switches, according to their design and type of installation, are divided into types:

Single

double

Closed type (switches built-in)

Open type (external switches).

The electronic content of the light switch, the types of which have already been presented, consists of concise systems of fixed and moving contacts, as well as a drive of a strictly defined type. The internal control system of the circuit breaker is divided into:

spring

electromagnetic

Pneumatic

Sensory.

The switch is installed in strictly regulated places, in accordance with the special requirements of the PUE. For household switches in a private house, manual and automatic modes are considered common control methods.

The most common and widely used in the electrification of country houses is such a scheme.

Switch wiring diagram

Before installing the switch, it is necessary to determine its type: one-button and two-button. Then you need to carefully examine the junction box. Blondes, beware! The one-button “on-off switch” will have as many as six wires:

Two wires - the device itself,

Two wires - power,

Two for a chandelier, lamp or sconce (underline as appropriate).

In order for the home lamp to give the long-awaited light, it is necessary to bring three conductors to it. The phase is always connected through the switch and goes into a gap. This is necessary for further subsequent replacement of the light bulb when turned off.

Having chosen the type and control system of the circuit breaker, you can safely proceed to its connection

Switch connection steps

Connecting any switch is done in stages.

Removing the supply voltage

Checking the absence of voltage on the line

Mounting box preparation

Connecting the device to the working line

Fastening the mounting box in a niche

Installing the decorative cover

Restoring the power supply

Checking the functionality of the installed switch.

Having successfully turned off the power supply, prepare the mounting box: clean it from dust or debris.

Do-it-yourself installation of any type of switch begins with the installation of the switch box. It is preferable to use "Euro" switch boxes, which are already kindly equipped with the necessary fasteners and a plug for the wire. These boxes have five openings for conductors: four on the side and one on the bottom of the box. This allows you to correct the place of entry of the electric wire.

After carrying out the installation work, it is necessary to supply power.


Double switch connection

The double switch enjoys the greatest attention among the owners of country or private houses.

The convenience of a double switch is justified when it becomes necessary to control the lighting separately. For example, it can be one switch, where two control buttons produce lighting for the kitchen and a small corridor.

The connection scheme of a double switch is based on the connection of a phase conductor to the common output of the switch. In this case, the other two cores will be the phase interrupted by the contacts, returning to the junction box. The zero phase is common and goes to the lamp holders. How to correctly connect a double switch?

The video will help you learn the rules for connecting a double switch from professionals.

In terms of ease of use, pass-through switches are of particular interest. Pass-through switches are convenient for lighting long corridors or stairs. Moving along the corridor and having such a connection system installed, you do not have to return to the beginning of your journey. It will be enough to use the second switch located at the other end of the stairs or corridor in order to turn off the lighting.

Where does the switch lead to?

The connection diagram of the pass-through switches has a switching mode of "toggle character". This means that each switch has two switching positions: in one position, one switch is closed, in the other, respectively, the second switch.


The general closure of the three contacts in this case is excluded. The installation of the pass-through switch circuit is carried out from their installation in the intended places. Three-core cables are output from this place. Mounted luminaires connected in parallel will create a two-core cable at the output. This cable is inserted into the junction box. The cable connection scheme does not require additional components and elements, and the number of switches in this case is unlimited.

It is very simple and accessible to connect a pass-through switch shown in the proposed video.

The euro standard for connecting switches that exists today completely eliminates any errors and the slightest blunders during installation. Of course, the owners of private houses will adopt such a practice. And then you will be happy!

A single-key switch is the simplest product designed to control home lighting.

From time to time, such products have to be repaired or replaced, so it is advisable to present a diagram of their inclusion and the principle of operation.

In our article you will find answers to your questions, a diagram and video recommendations for connecting a single-gang switch.

The switch is part of the circuit, which includes a source and consumer of electricity. In this variant, this 220 V network and lamp. To turn such a lamp on and off, there must be a disconnecting device between it and the network.

The switch, which has one key, is connected in series to the phase line of the network. In principle, it can also be included in the zero line, but this, firstly, will contradict PUE rules, and, secondly, it will be unsafe when servicing electrical devices.

The danger is that when the device is installed in the zero line, the nodes of the energy consumer will be energized even when it is in the off state. And when touching an electric device, a person may be shocked.

To connect a lighting lamp to a network using it is usually used, in which switching is performed. At the same time to her fit 6 electric lines- two are energized, two go to the lamp and two go to the switch.

How to choose

Depending on the type of wiring (or) in the house, switches of one or another type can be used. They differ in their design in terms of their installation on the wall.. In the first case, the device is installed on a wooden plate placed on the wall surface, in the second case, in a metal or plastic socket recessed into the wall.

In any case, when choosing a switch, you should pay attention to its limit characteristics. Typically, the operating voltage of a standard device is 220 V, and the operating current is -10 A.

The passport also indicates the maximum switched power (standard -2.2 kW).

At the same time, the power of the consumer, for example, lighting equipment at home, must not exceed this maximum power.

Installation and video instructions

When installing a lighting control system the greatest attention should be paid to:

  • Correct connection of elements in the distribution box (block).
  • Correct connection of the switch itself.

Scheme for connecting a single-key switch to a light bulb:

To fulfill the first rule, you need to do the following operations:

  • Define, suitable from the network side. To do this, you can use a probe - with a neon light bulb. If you bring the probe to the phase, the neon light will start to glow. If the probe is brought to zero, then there will be no glow.
  • Turn off the power at the apartment.
  • Connect the phase to one of the ones going to the switch.
  • Connect the second cable coming from the switch to the one that goes to the center pin of the lamp socket.
  • Connect the wire coming from the external contact of the base to the network zero.

The connection of stripped ends can be carried out in various ways:

  • twisting and subsequent soldering with further isolation of this place with tape or special caps;
  • screw or bolt clamps;
  • using terminal blocks;
  • spring clamps, for example, Wago type.

The most reliable contact in this case provides the first option. Screw and bolted connections are reliable, but when they are performed, damage to the connected elements is possible. Spring clamps can be done very quickly, but over time, the springs weaken, causing sparking and burning.

To execute the second rule, you need to perform the following operations:

  • Remove device key using a screwdriver with a thin sting. In this case, it should be borne in mind that modern plastic instrument cases have a very fragile structure, so care must be taken.
  • Strengthen the overhead version of the device with screws on a wooden socket. Use screws to connect the conductors coming from the distribution unit to the contacts.
  • With hidden wiring at the beginning connect wires. Then install the body into the niche of the wall and fix it with special tabs by tightening the fastening screws.
  • Set the key in place.

Learn from this video how to properly connect a single-gang light switch:

In the following video, we will show you how to properly install a single-gang switch:

In conclusion, it is necessary to turn it on on the shield and check the operability of the system and its adjustment.

Let's summarize. Single-gang switches are used to control the shutdown of power-consuming devices, such as lighting. Such devices are included in the phase wire in series with the lighting means..

Installation of the shutdown system for devices using electricity is carried out using a special junction box.

The device must be selected in such a way that it limiting electrical characteristics were equal or more such characteristics of current consumers.