1. The upper plane is not level

The design of any bath implies its own bottom slope. That is, the upper edge is set according to the level, while the bottom has its own slope towards the drain. An additional slope is not only unnecessary, but also harmful - in such a bath, the chances of slipping increase.

2. Sewer slope is too small

The height difference of sewer pipes according to SNiPs - for Ф50mm - 3 cm per meter, for Ф110mm - 1.5 cm per meter. If you really strained with height, then the fiftieth pipe can be laid 1.5 cm per meter - the drain will be normal. Checked by the author.

If you make the slope less, then the water will leave slowly. In this case, you have to wait a long time to rinse the bath after washing. Also, foam and dirt will settle on the walls of the bathtub and pipes, which are then more difficult to wash off, and the pipes in general can become completely clogged from this and will have to be cleaned.

3. A corrugation was used to connect the siphon to the sewer

Rigid pipes only, avoiding right angles.

4. The screws for fastening the legs to the tub are tightened on the steel bath

It is no coincidence that the nuts for such screws are made in the form of lambs. They can only be tightened by hand. If you use keys or pliers, then the enamel of the bathtub in the place where the screw is attached is easily shot off and it will be impossible to fix it! So, many years ago, I had to replace one tub with a new one.

5. Used spring pads

Under no circumstances should rubber or similar pads be placed under the legs of the bathtub, as well as under the bottom of the bathtub. If the bath springs on them during operation, then a crack will definitely go between the bath and the wall. And the water will start flowing in.

Steel tubs are supplied with self-adhesive gaskets between tub and legs. They are allowed to be left. Additional spring pads should be avoided.

6. There is no grounding of the bath

According to the norms of SNiP, the bath must be grounded (connected) with an electric wire with a cross section of at least that of the phase wire, with water pipes and an electrical panel.

To ensure reliable contact for cast iron baths, it is enough to wind the wire around the leg adjusting screw and tighten it on both sides with nuts with washers and one lock washer.

This option is not suitable for a steel bathtub, since self-adhesive gaskets isolate the bathtub from the legs. For grounding purposes, the steel bath has special tabs with holes for bolts.

But, almost always, these petals are painted with enamel, like the whole bath. Since the enamel does not pass electric current, it must be carefully removed from the required area before grounding.

This can be done with the help of an angle grinder (grinder), removing the paint at the point of contact. You can also use pliers to slightly bend the petal at the point of contact of the wire, the enamel in this place will “shoot off”. Work, therefore, must be carried out in protective glasses. Then, the junction can be coated with lithol or any other lubricant, or painted to prevent oxidation.

7. Using silicone and flexible corners to design the adjoining bathtub to the tile

Plastic flexible corners installed on the bathtub quickly lose their appearance. The same applies to silicone. According to statistics, on average once a year they will need to be changed. It is better to completely abandon them in favor of adjoining tiles on top and grout. But, if the silicone is good and made in such a way that water does not stagnate on it, then it may well last a long time.

8. Bath pads are not waterproof and not rigid enough.

In 9 cases out of 10, the bathtub has to be raised higher than provided by the factory adjusting screws. If wooden or rubber stands are used for these purposes, then in the first case they can dry out, and in the second case, as mentioned above, the bath will “breathe” and a crack will inevitably form at the junction of the bath to the wall.

9. A tile shelf is not made at the head, but “at the feet”

If the shelf between the bathroom and the wall (along the length) is made not at the head, but “at the feet” (the feet are where the drain is), then when taking a shower, the main stream of water will flow onto this shelf, and possibly from it to the floor. If the slope of the shelf is small, then the water on it will stagnate. If it is large, then it will not be possible to put anything on it.

Conclusion - the shelf at the head is more convenient and practical.

10. The bathtub is sunk too deep into the walls.

If the side of the bath along the length is sunk into the wall to a great depth, then it becomes uncomfortable to sit in this bath - the wall is too close. It is also inconvenient to put various shelves and seats on the bath.

And yes, it doesn't look very pretty.

11. Blocked access to revision.

If a home-made screen is installed on the bath, then it is imperative to provide access to the tub piping. Sometimes you need to clean the siphon or make some other repair.

You can install plastic or metal hatches on magnets. But this option does not look very good. It is best to use built-in secret hatches under the tile. It is also possible to install the tile on 4 magnets, as described.

Leave a comment on this article at the bottom of the page and get a selection of useful tips from Stanislav Plitochkin as a gift:

• How to glue broken plastic products so that they become stronger than new ones.
• The best way to drill a hole in a tile.
• Refinement of the angle grinder, with a cost of 85 rubles and 1 hour of working time, increasing the resource of the angle grinder and the diamond wheel by 2 times.
• How to make beautiful and durable bath coasters from affordable materials.
• How to tighten a drill chuck without a key.
• A pitfall when installing a wall-mounted toilet.

118 comments

Thank you very much.
Everything is clear and understandable. Learned a lot of useful things. In particular, about the hatch on magnets, preparing pipes for bricking, about grouting sawn tiles.
Thanks again.

Thanks Stanislav for the article!
I agree, silicone often loses its appearance in the first months of use. But here's the paradox - my sister's bathroom was renovated more than 10 years ago - silicone is like new !!! Too bad I don't remember the manufacturer.

• Yes, this is a lucky one. Good silicone plus good ventilation, plus the caring hands of the hostess (I'm sure she often wipes the remaining water dry after using the bath) - the result, of course, will please.

  I am currently preparing material for the installation of bathtubs. There will be a subsection describing the rules for using and caring for the bathroom.

  Gift sent by mail.

I have been decorating for several years and still find something new for myself on your site. Many came to construction not from special schools, but by chance. In many ways, you have to learn on your own or learn from others. Your sai is a great help to those who are still improving their skills and increasing their professional abilities.
About the shelf between the wall and the bathroom, you should pay attention to the location of the tap. Won't water flow onto the shelf, height, won't it get in the way? It is desirable that the bathtub and faucet were already in stock and were on site. This will remove questions and unnecessary pain.

• Thanks for the comment! Yes, Alexander, I didn’t study at the school either, I had to get knowledge from books and in communication with other finishers. But the biggest experience was gained by their own bumps. Now I realize that this is the wrong approach and I strongly recommend that everyone find the right description and study it before work. Moreover, with the Internet it is much easier to do this!
  As for the mixer above the shelf, it is just mentioned in the ninth paragraph of this article. But you are right: for me it goes without saying that the faucet should be located “at the feet” (above the bath drain), but for an inexperienced reader this may not be so obvious. This point will definitely be covered in the instructions.
  Bonuses sent.

1. Oh sure. Water also conducts current, so a potential difference can also arise - it won’t seem enough! In addition to the bath, the plumbing must also be grounded. If the wiring and risers are polypropylene, then grounding can be done for the metal parts of water meters, taps or coarse filters.

Thanks, educational! Right now there is a problem in the choice of linings for the legs of the bathtub ... the bathtub is cast iron, heavy, the legs with adjusting bolts. Can you suggest any way?

• • Thanks for the helpful tips. As for “I liked it or not”, I can say the following: I agree with you that laying bricks is unaesthetic, the second method, which includes pouring pipe trimmings, is certainly interesting and looks good, however, it didn’t suit me, because there is no need to raise the bath high, the length of the native bolts was quite enough for a good drain and for the convenience of using the bath itself. However, if I ever put a bath on “short” legs, I will probably use this method. Personally, I liked and came in handy your advice to use plugs from polypropylene pipes as linings. Very simple, cheap and does not scratch the tile. Just what I need.

    • • Hello! Maybe it's too late to discuss the topic ....
        There are two questions.
        1. Does an acrylic bathtub need to be grounded?
        2. We bought an acrylic corner and a frame for it. The legs are so short that any drain does not fit, the legs are suspended, and the tub is on the drain pipe. And besides, the legs in the center under the bottom of the bath are shorter than those in the corners. Buying high legs is expensive, the frame is expensive ... Can you share a way?
        And yet, maybe everyone has it, the bottom of the bathtub is slightly curved, while the water runs well into the drain, somehow, conveniently on the sides. The husband says that it takes time for it to subside and even out. And I think that the bath should stand rigidly and so that the bottom does not play, which is so conceived

        Hello, Elena!
        It is not necessary to ground the acrylic bath.
        The legs are short - increase them in length. To do this, it is enough to purchase a meter-long stud and couplings of the appropriate diameter. As well as locknuts with lock washers or a thread lock in the form of a paste.
        The second option is to make coasters, which are described in the bonus. But it will be more difficult to install them with an acrylic bathtub - access to the far legs is too difficult.
        The bottom of the bathtub will not bend over time. If it plays, then it is better to organize a support under it in the form of bricks or bars planted on foam.

Thanks for the advice! I am doing a bathroom renovation and am very worried about the results, especially after your article. How many dangers! .I have a problem with the legs of the Rosa cast-iron bathtub. The adjusting bolts included with the legs turned out to be a bit short (due to the box with pipes, you have to lift it higher to move it close to the wall), you need more lining for these bolts. Question - You do not recommend wood and rubber, but what to choose? Paving slabs, metal pads? I already got an oak bar, but something began to doubt. Although Venice stands on oak piles...

I continue to explore the site. Everything is great. Did you have to paste over the steel bath with “Shumka”? What materials did you use and what did you glue? Very relevant, tomorrow I'm picking up the Roca bathtub, I would like to finalize it before installation.
I would like to see how you improved the angle grinder. Thank you!

• Pasted steel bathtubs Caldewey with regular soundproofing, see here:
  I also insulated with mounting foam - it takes 3 cylinders per bath. But, this is the case when the bath is walled up tightly. Tomorrow I will sculpt the usual energy flex on liquid nails. True, it will not be noise insulation, but heat. A good option is car soundproofing. In fact, the more expensive the better...

Please tell me if the tiles on the wall are already laid out to the floor
Do I need to make some kind of recess in the hay under the side of the bath, or can I fix it right next to the tile and make a baseboard?

Good advice, not sucked out of the finger, as is often the case now. A slope of 3 cm per meter is a bit too much in practice - as a result, too much lift is obtained. Thank you!

Thank you for the article! I would also like to get advice from the GURU regarding the rise of regular short legs of the Roca cast iron bath. What is better to use instead of rubber pads? And how is it better to ground it if the drain-overflow is copper, and all pipes are polypropylene?

• Sent a selection, Olga. The answer to the first question is in it. About grounding a cast-iron bath: According to SNIPs, the bath is grounded with a copper wire with a cross section of at least 4 mm2, stretched from the electrical panel. On the same wire risers with hot and cold water are grounded. If the risers are polypropylene, then the wire can be connected to the metal parts of meters or coarse filters using stainless steel clamps. The wire can be connected to the bath itself by tightening it with a bolt in a special eye, and if it is not provided, then by clamping it between the nuts on one of the legs.

What can you tell me about joining an acrylic bathtub to a tile? Manufacturers do not recommend adjoining tiles on top of an acrylic bath, the only way out is silicone or plastic corners.

• You're right, Dimitri. Silicone or plastic corners. But personally, I had a chance three months ago to install an acrylic bathtub with tiles adjoining on top. True, very significant measures were provided for eliminating possible movements of the bath. The junction was sealed with white silicone. I note that replacing the bath will also become much more complicated. But, with careful operation, an acrylic bathtub will quietly last 15 years or more.

Hello Stanislav. I really like your articles, you talk about those important “little things” that allow you to make repairs with pleasure and with high quality. The advice about the hatch on magnets has already been adopted. Simple, and most importantly, aesthetically pleasing. I really look forward to a selection of articles, and I would also like to get access to pages protected by passwords. What needs to be done for this?

• Hello Mamtria! Thanks for the feedback! I'll tell you one secret: For any sane comment on any article, I send access to all bonuses and password-protected materials.) If something is missing, write and I'll add it. Feel free to ask any questions you may have, I will try to answer all of them.

Good day!
I can't figure out the 3rd point. “3. A corrugation was used to connect the siphon to the sewer
Rigid pipes only, avoiding right angles.”
How can this be implemented? Maybe there is a photo?
What kind of rigid pipe can be used and how is this connection to be maintained in the future?
Thank you in advance.



2. Thank you very much for your advice, it's good that I found your site. I would like to know on what supports, from what material to install just such a bath http://es26.ru/products/6518937 And what gaskets to install under the bottom of the bath. It’s just that the bath was installed a long time ago, by other people, and they didn’t do it very well, I would like to do it wisely.

   • Hello Sergey! I didn’t understand what legs your bathtub has now. If they are relatives, then it’s easy to make good coasters for them and install them. At the same time, fix the bath itself in the way described in this place: .. How to make lining - sent to you by mail. The plastic pads between the legs and the tub that come with the kit are quite good, you don’t need to do anything with them.
     If the legs are not native, then you need to fix the side of the bath, as described above, remove the old legs and install stands from a moisture-resistant gypsum block with a gap of 10 ... 15 mm. Fill the gap with mounting foam, on which the bath will hold well. It is advisable to install the gypsum block at the bottom on tile glue or perlfix. You can do the same from laying bricks on the "edge".

Tell me, the repair was completed 1.5 years ago. Not immediately realized that our repairmen left a "surprise". The drain does not work well in the bath, the water is constantly standing, I don’t understand how to rip everything back now in order to raise the bath.

• Xenia, I sympathize with your grief ... If you are one hundred percent sure that it is a small difference in height, then there is only one way out - to raise the bath. Installing the Sololift system with forced pumping of wastewater - I do not propose - it is difficult and expensive. If relevant, write to the mail - I will give information on the technology of raising the bath.

Good afternoon!
Thank you for the article and honest approach to business.
Soon we will have to raise the cast-iron bath by 6 cm.
They wanted paving slabs. Did you understand from your article that this is not the best option?
Advise, plz., on what to put the legs of the bath.

Hello! Roca bathtub 100×70. The screw legs glide on the porcelain stoneware floor like on ice. What can be substituted? Plugs from polypropylene pipes also slide! !! What can you think of? Yes, I note that the walls are made of PVC panels, i.e. do not attach a bath to them. Thank you in advance for your response.




3. Hello! We bought a Roca cast-iron bathtub with an anti-slip coating, but very short legs of 8 cm are included with it ... Tell me, please, what can I put? I thought that I could use rubber or silicone anti-vibration pads for a washing machine or wooden squares from a pine floorboard, but from the information on your website, I realized that this is not desirable ...

   • • Hello! The situation is similar with the Roca bathroom. "Specialists" installed on scraps of plywood. They turned on the heating and after a month the bath sank. Could you tell me, please, how can I replace the plywood coasters?

       • Stands are made from pvc sewer pipe scraps filled with sand concrete. Details in the collection that I sent you by mail.

Hello! To install a bathroom close to the wall, a cast-iron pipe interferes, the master advised replacing it with metal-plastic, installing it on the floor, thereby completely hiding it. The master suggests changing the pipe only in the bathroom, which is smaller in diameter than cast iron. I am concerned about the safety of the heating system and the room will be warm enough and the circulation throughout the house will not be damaged. Waiting for your reply. Thank you!

Hello!
I plan to install a cast-iron bathtub on a tile, but I'm worried that under its legs a corner of the tile may crack or break off due to the possible entry of the legs into the voids.
Please advise how best to remove the point load from the legs, preferably at the same time slightly raising the bath (so that the drain is better).
Thanks in advance!

• Greetings, Alexey! You can remove the point load by using the pads, which I described in the bonus sent to you. The second option is to put paving slabs under the legs. They come in different thicknesses and configurations. But most importantly, the voids under the tile can be easily calculated by simply tapping the tile with a pencil. If there is a void, the sound will immediately change. So perhaps your concern is unfounded.

Hello! Advise on the best way to proceed: an acrylic bathtub with legs was installed, because of the flexibility of acrylic, the grout quickly fell out, after which it was decided to make waterproofing with silicone sealant, but it also did not last long. Is there an option to reinforce the bath and remove this flexibility without dismantling the bath and how best to seal the seam.

• Hello Ivan! A familiar problem. The edges of the acrylic bath are pressed through when pressed, and this is the main disadvantage of these baths. How to defeat him? - In accessible places, the bend of the bath rim can be drilled to the wall. In inaccessible - I can offer to slip a stick, or better - a duralumin square under the side of the bath and spread it to the floor. It is not easy to do this, but it is possible. You can increase the pressure with linings.
  The seam can be sealed with a two-component automotive putty for metal. But this is only if you are sure that the wall is strong enough, dry and dust-free. For example, - heavy concrete or tile. But if there is gypsum plaster on the wall, then it is better to go through a good acrylic primer first and dry it.
  Bonus sent.

Hello, I have the same problem as mentioned above. It is necessary to raise the cast-iron bath by 5 cm. I made a mistake during installation,
wedged the legs to the bath, i.e. it will be difficult to get them out. 2 put small blocks under the legs, which dried up over time. As a result of this, the side cracked and the grout cracked.
now I want to lift the bathtub with 2 jacks, pull out the bars and put metal plates under them.
I want to drill the plates and insert 2 bolts so that this structure can be lifted along with the bathtub.
please tell me what is better to put under the bolt head so that the tile does not break.
thank you and good luck

• Hello Timur! Under the heads of the bolts, in your case, you can substitute circles of a suitable size, cut from a duralumin corner or plate. Any durable waterproof material is suitable: copper, stainless steel, textolite, getinaks, polycarbonate. If I understand correctly, then the bath leg will rest on a plate into which two bolts are screwed head down. But such a design would be very unstable. Three bolts are required for stability. Apparently, you are a hardworking person. In a good way. But here I would advise you not to complicate the solution of the problem in this way. It will be enough for you to raise the bathtub with a jack and place the stands under the legs, the description of which I have already sent you. Since the grout over the side of the bath has already cracked, there is no particular need to return the bath to its original position - you still have to clean the cracked grout and wipe it with a new one. But the risk of damaging the tile when jacking up or squeezing out with bolts is quite large. Therefore, it is better not to try to lift the bath, but simply to support it with a jack to remove the load from the legs. Then do not pull out the bars, but split them with a chisel and a hammer. Next, install the manufactured coasters under the legs and, if necessary, substrates in the form of coins or fragments of a paint knife blade.

  • Grout means you just need to embroider where it is cracked or clean it completely? and wipe over with a new one?
    I impregnated it with a water-repellent grout, do you think the new grout will lay down? although it has been about 3 years, probably this impregnation has already washed off)

    • There is no particular difference. If the grout is not too difficult to clean out, then it is better, of course, to clean it all off and rub it with a new one. But you can also embroider and overwrite. It should be borne in mind that the new grout and the old one will differ in shade. The grout should lie normally on the impregnation. It’s just always better to put the grout not in a thin layer, but with a depth of at least 2mm. That way she'll hold on better.

Good afternoon, and I would also like to get advice from you regarding the rise of regular short legs of the Roca cast-iron bathtub and its reliable fastening in conditions that tiles on the floor and walls are already everywhere.
The bath was installed, but these legs do not inspire any confidence for some reason. Thanks in advance.

• Good day! Roca's short legs have adjusting screws that can be replaced with longer ones. Or use the coasters that are described in the letter sent to you.

Hello. Thanks for your valuable advice. Short and to the point. Learned a lot. Just dismantled the old bath and now I'm trying to put it back. But there's a problem. The bathroom consists of plaster walls - this is a panel of the 9th floor. The walls at the junction of the bath turned into gray powder in separate sections, and as I understand it, this is the reaction of plaster to water. Now I don’t know how to “restore” these sections of the walls in order to give them the original geometry of the walls, in the sense of what materials specifically. can you advise how to repair the plaster walls of the bathroom, taking into account the possible ingress of water into these areas in the future? Can you also recommend a sanitary anti-mold sealant, including one on which mold does not really grow? And then many manufacturers write on sealants that they are from mold, but apparently the mold cannot read and grows well on these sealants. Thank you.

• Hello Roman! Thanks for the good question. About the plaster. Don't worry too much, this is fixable. First, exfoliate everything that is pouring, and then dry it. Next, walk along the walls with liquid glass, directly with a brush or roller, so that as much as possible is absorbed. If it seems that it is poorly absorbed, dilute it a little with water. When dry, you can go through again. This is the best primer and waterproofing. Just be careful - after drying, liquid glass cannot be cleaned from tiles and faience. Next, plaster the walls with any plaster, dry, prime with a regular primer or again with liquid glass. The ingress of water on the walls through the tiles, if the tiles are properly laid and rubbed, is excluded. So don't worry about that. But about the mold, this is a very important point. You correctly said that sealant manufacturers are hanging noodles on the ears of buyers. I personally have not seen such a sealant that can completely defeat the fungus. Here you need to approach strategically - to eliminate the cause of the appearance of the fungus. The most popular reason is the tightness of the bath room. That is, they put a door with a threshold or a minimum clearance between the canvas and the floor, and then they wait for the bath to be ventilated by a fan. But if there is nowhere for air to flow in, then the humidity will not go anywhere, and no fan will help here. It is also necessary to check the hood - whether it works well. There is another reason for humidity in the bathroom - condensation on the walls. If the wall borders the street or the entrance, then condensation will also constantly appear on it. To avoid this phenomenon, it is necessary to insulate the wall or provide additional heating.

  I can say about sealants that they often turn black over time due to the fact that they are applied with a “failure”, that is, a groove forms in the corner between the sink and the wall, in which water stagnates. In such cases, mold is, of course, inevitable. In general, the conclusion is simple - the main enemy of mold is dryness, and we must strive to ensure it by all means.
  Sent a collection.

Cast iron bath 70 by 170 very dubious regular legs, do I need to additionally strengthen the bath, insure? Is there a replacement for such legs and can the bolts be replaced with longer ones of another metal?

• Can I get a photo of those stock legs? Until now, only fairly reliable ones have been met, except that the thread is not cut through to the end or goes wrong. The bath is strengthened automatically, when bricked up under the tile. The screws can of course be replaced. But you should not get carried away with the length, because, with a misaligned thread, you get a large lever arm to break this leg. Another metal - do you mean more durable and moisture resistant? - Then of course yes!

Good article, thanks. I have a question about the legs of cast-iron bathtubs and linings for them. Novokuznetsk cast-iron bathtubs "Universal" have adjustable legs with bolts at the end. Is it possible to install their bathtub 70x170 simply on the heads of these bolts (as by default and apparently calculated), these faceted hats are about 13-15 mm in diameter (I don’t remember exactly, maybe 10mm, but somewhere like that), the tile is not crack? Or do I need to add something wider?
Tile 43x43x9 mm

• By and large, you can leave the bolt heads - they will not push through the tile if it is well laid, and there are no voids under it. There is one small nuance - these bolts are black, not covered with anything and will rust over time - accordingly, the view will not be very neat. It is possible to substitute plugs for polypropylene pipes of a suitable diameter under these hats. They cost a penny, but they are quite durable and water resistant. There is one more thing with these bolts: very often the bolts of the front legs (near the drain) have to be unscrewed to the maximum so that the bend of the siphon does not rest on the floor. At the same time, the rear bolts turn out to be short, since the bottom has a slope towards the drain hole. In this case, you will have to purchase new bolts, longer ones. So, going to the store, you can immediately kill all the birds with one stone: buy 4 polypropylene plugs, galvanized bolts, nuts with washers for them, and, as a highlight on the cake, four lock washers, which will not be superfluous for such a responsible connection.
  Well, or just use the footrests described in the letter sent to you.

Good afternoon!
What should be the minimum length gap to install a steel bath?
I plan to install Roca Swing 180 × 80, after laying the “niche” tiles it turned out to be exactly 180 cm.
Will I be able to “shove the unshoveable”?
And is it really practical to look for specimens rare on the market with a steel thickness of 3.5 mm instead of the usual 2.4 mm, or is it enough to glue a vibroisol to eliminate the rumble of water?

• Good day, Vladislav! Yes, you are right, it will be difficult to insert such a bath. The fact is that its upper edge is not sharp, like a cast-iron bathtub, but has the shape of a rectangle, which, when lowered diagonally, will be longer than just the upper edge. For your dimensions, we have the length of this diagonal: √ (1800² + 40²) \u003d 1800.44. Subtract from it the length of the bath -1800 and get 1800.44-1800 = 0.44 mm. Hmm ..., probably, such an excess can be neglected, for sure it fits into the measurement error. Here you have to hope for luck. Otherwise, you will have to remove a row of tiles from one end of the bath or cut a groove in the tile under the side of the bath, which is a very delicate work, and not every specialist can do it.
  I do not observe a fundamental difference in the thickness of the walls of the bath. A normal aerator on the mixer plays a much larger role. And yes, vibroizol is quite an appropriate thing.

Good afternoon! Very informative article and just in time for me! I'm about to redecorate my bathroom! Can you please tell me how to properly install an acrylic bath: before tiling or after? The biggest concern is the gap between the tile and the bathroom. I don’t want it to turn yellow, I also don’t want the corners. How to be? Thanks

• Good afternoon, Natalia! It is better to put the tile on the bath, such an adjoining is more technological. Then this corner can be asked to be hone or grouted. If you want the corner to not lose its appearance longer, then it is better to use a two-component epoxy-based grout.
  Be warned, most acrylic bathtubs have negative sloped corners and need to be raised to keep water from stagnating in them.

Add another error. I brought a 50mm pipe out of the wall under the drain exactly in the center of the bath, where the bath has a drain hole. I did not take into account that the siphon looks like a drain anywhere, but not at the wall, because the overflow interferes there. Now I'll have to trace around the 45 degree corners. Moreover, all the decent siphons that I looked at do not make it possible to connect to the drain in a straight line, they mean that the drain will be to the side, and not strictly in the center. And one more question. I have an angle of 50mm 90deg in the wall, followed by a sunbed 2.5m with a slope of 1.5, then a tee 135deg and a riser. Otherwise it just won't fit. And in the direction of the bath from this angle of 90 degrees, I will have 5 cm of pipes, an angle of 45, 10 cm of pipes, an angle of 45, then a siphon (siphon outlet 50 mm). Forecast? How bad will water drain through this entire structure? To redo it is necessary to disassemble the GKL on the frame: (

• Your slope is normal, the water will leave well. Too many corners, of course, but that's okay. Anyway, the U-shaped siphon of the bath has a worse throughput, and the flow rate will be determined by it. If you have a U-shaped siphon, and you want to maximize the speed of draining water, then you need to get rid of the 90-degree angles, replacing them with two 45-degree corners.
  Regarding the withdrawal of the sewer from the wall along the axis of the bathroom. That's right, it's the wrong location. The overflow, however, can always be turned a little to the side (the connecting tube allows you to do this), but in a straight line the siphon almost never gets into the sewer pipe and you have to arrange an equilibrium study.
  The article lists eleven errors, but in fact there are, of course, many more. I tried to write instructions for installing bathtubs - I got over 120 pages, with photos and pictures, it's true, but it's still a lot. Although twenty years ago such an instruction would have been very useful to me ...

Hello Stanislav. It is very opportune for me that I found your very useful site. I have to install a shower with high sides (that is, an acrylic bathtub below) in the bathroom. But the trouble is, the height from the floor to the bottom of the sewer pipe (d = 50) in the wall is 9.5 cm, and from the floor to the bottom of the bath is only 10.5 cm. very small height difference due to which there will be stagnation of water in the bath! What kind of solid coasters should be used under the legs of the bath (there are 12 of them, the diameter of each support is 38mm)? Which siphon and angles should I use for maximum drain speed?

• Greetings, Igor! Twelve legs is a lot. It is necessary to raise the pallet, though there will be a gap between the screen and the floor. But it, with a certain ingenuity, can be laid out with mosaic tiles. Stands in your case can be either described in the bonus sent to you, or in the form of polypropylene sleeves of the appropriate diameter. Or from a polypropylene pipe cut into the desired height of the stand. Try to raise the pallet to a height that is a multiple of the whole number of mosaic tiles.
  The siphon is best used with a gentle curve, but it has a large height, which in your case may not be acceptable. Angles for draining - it is advisable to avoid 90 degrees - it is better to set two to forty-five.

Good afternoon. Thank you for your materials and experience, I emphasized a lot of useful things for myself. In a week I will put the Roca cast-iron bath, I have already bought it. The entire bathroom is already tiled. So I broke my whole head, how to put it correctly so that it does not slip. I am considering the option with washers for adjusting bolts, or brass plugs, as you suggest. It is interesting to know if there are any other ways besides those indicated. Well, I would also like to read a selection of your useful tips.

• I sent a selection, Vadim, good evening!) Let the bath slide, it's okay. It is only important, at the time of alignment, to fix it with wedges between the walls. Then you can safely concrete.

Hello! Please tell me the solution to this problem. There is an acrylic bathtub on a factory framework. The bathroom is already tiled and the distance between the walls is about 90mm larger than the bathtub. At the same time, the bathtub seems to be deformed by a “screw”. When it is full, then everything is fine, the legs are on the tile, everything is even. If the water is drained, then the bath begins to stagger and the difference in its position relative to the seams of the tile is visible. I plan to disperse the gap and foam the filled bath on both sides. Will it hold up?

• I wouldn't recommend doing that. On the faucet side, you then have to make a shelf of tiles, this is extra work, and not very practical in terms of water running off during a shower. It will be enough to draw water and pull the sides of the bath to the walls with powerful screws.

  • Greetings! Sorry for the delay in answering, there were technical reasons .. Faucet at the end of the bath - no problem, as long as you are comfortable. Quite beautiful.

Hello, please send me possible options for linings for a cast-iron bathtub by mail. We are doing repairs, laid tiles, put a bath on it. But there is a fear that the bath will push through the tiles. Are you saying that you can put plugs from polypropylene pipes, but they will not slip on the tile? Or is the tub so heavy that it won't slip? Help me please!

• Hello Alena! Yes, the plugs will slide. This is convenient for installing a bathtub, but after installation, the bathtub must be firmly fixed. I hope that you slightly deepen the edge of the bath into the wall so that the tile stands on the very bump of the curvature of the edge. In this case, after smearing the gap with the desired solution, the bath is securely walled up and no additional measures are required. In addition, a properly made shelf between the bathtub and the wall at the headboard will also additionally fix the bathtub. Just in case, I am sending you a description of the substrates, as well as a number of other useful tips for repairs. Good luck!

Hello, I'm going to change the cast iron bath to acrylic. A thin heating pipe runs under the edge of the bathtub. Is it possible to allow the surface of the acrylic bath rim to come into contact with the pipe? If not, what would you recommend. You are a very good source of such information. Great article about 11 mistakes. The repair did not start, but I already foresaw the jambs for myself) Thank you in advance.

• Thank you Sergey for your kind words! My opinion about the pipe is that it is better to provide a gap, at least 5mm, so that the pipe does not touch the acrylic. Still, polymers under the influence of high temperatures age faster. In general, I would like to clarify what kind of pipe it is. Once I came across a similar one, but that pipe was behind a false wall, and its role was to warm up the street wall, to which the bathtub adjoined. We even considered demolishing the false wall and leaving the pipe under the edge of the bathtub, like yours. But then they reasoned that the wall above the bath would not be warmed up by convection, and condensation would very likely appear on it. Therefore, it was decided to leave the false wall.
  As thermal insulation, K-flex tape, or any suitable material, can be wound on the pipe. Even a cut electric corrugation of the desired diameter will do.

  >>>But you are right: for me it goes without saying that the faucet should be located “at the feet” (above the bathtub drain), but for an inexperienced reader it may not be so obvious.

  It turns out that the shelf should be on the opposite side of the drain?

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Bath installation

You can install the bath yourself, the main thing is to follow all the rules and advice of specialists. Well, and, of course, you can’t do without an assistant, since the bath itself is quite heavy and it’s more convenient to handle it together. How to properly install a bath and what is needed for this? What difficulties await you, you should know in advance.

Option one: installing a bathtub on legs

First you need to dismantle the old bath and determine the method of outflow and water supply.

If it is installed in the same place, then nothing needs to be changed. Otherwise, additional hoses or pipes must be purchased.

But in order to calculate correctly, you must first be in place. If the legs of the bath can be adjusted in height, then you need to determine the maximum low and high position of the bath.

Step by step job description:

1. Make a marking at the installation site, lay the bath on its side and connect the floor siphon with outlet and overflow.
2. To seal the drain joint, rubber gaskets are installed at the top and bottom.
3. Now you need to connect a floor-type hydraulic siphon.
4. If the bath is to be connected to a steel pipeline, then at this stage of the installation of the siphon, one end of the electrical potential equalizer must be connected.
5. After that, you need to fix the overflow through the gaskets with a connection to the overflow pipe.
6. The next step is to attach the legs to the bottom of the tub.
7. The outlet from the sewer pipe is connected to the siphon.
8. Having installed the bath in place, you need to level it. In order to check the correct installation, simply pour some water into the bath and see if all the water goes into the siphon.
9. Now put the rubber sealing ring on the outlet of the sewer pipe and fix it well in the socket.
10. Upon completion of all work, connect the second end of the electrical potential equalizer to ground. By the way, only hot tubs require mandatory grounding - in other cases it is a matter of choice.

In order to prevent water from seeping between the bathroom and the wall, it is necessary to make a silicone gasket that can be tiled. This will not only provide protection against leakage, but also make the installation more durable.

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Option two: "grandfather" method

In fact, there is nothing complicated in installing a bathtub, but there are doubts about the reliability of installing a bathtub on legs.

1. Firstly, you need to screw them very carefully so that, by pulling, you do not damage the bath itself.
2. Secondly, over time, the legs can rot, since the bathroom is a room with high humidity.

That is why many use the proven and reliable "grandfather" method, when the bath is simply installed on bricks.

Materials and tools:

• red bricks;
• primer;
• solution;
• tape sealant;
• putty knife;
• level.

Ordinary ceramic bricks are ideal for this job, as they withstand a humid environment well, but you can cover them with a primer for reliability. This can be done both before laying and after it.

Bricks are laid out on the floor in two rows, in the places where the legs should be. 2.5 bricks in length are placed in each of the rows. The width should be half the brick. Three rows are enough for height.

Basically it is the standard height. It is sufficient to ensure that there is enough space under the bath to accommodate all the necessary pipes and other parts of the installation, at the same time it is not high and quite convenient for its operation.

Repair in the bathroom is a costly event, not only in terms of building and finishing materials, but also the cost of the services of craftsmen. In this article, we will tell you in detail how the bath is installed, whether it is possible to do it yourself, without the involvement of third-party specialists. Thanks to this article, you will be able to save a significant amount of your renovation budget.

The installation of the bath takes place in several stages, some of them are common, while others are included depending on the material of manufacture of the equipment itself.

1. Room preparation;
2. Bath preparation;
3. Assembly of the siphon group;
4. Bathtub installation;
5. Connection of drain fittings;
6. Decorative design.

If the bath is metal, then the second item is omitted. The installation procedure itself is not complicated, but care is required when working with small parts. The main difficulty lies in connecting the siphon group.

There are two options for doing this

1. Carry out the connection before installing the bath in its place. This is much easier, because access to the drain holes is not limited. And the process itself can be controlled visually. But during installation, extreme care will be required so as not to damage the installed fittings. Given that the bath is a large and heavy object, this is problematic.
2. Install the bath in its place, align it. Only then connect the siphon group. The complexity of the process is seen in the fact that the work must be carried out by touch. It is impossible to see from both sides of the bath at once. But in return, the installer has the opportunity to handle the bathroom more freely.

The second option seems to be more preferable. In the end, anyone can brush their teeth with their eyes closed, and the toothbrush does not get past the mouth. Therefore, we will focus on the second method.

For the work of installing a bathtub, installers charge 1500-2500 rubles. And work there, with a prepared base, no more than half an hour. Therefore, we recommend installing a bath with your own hands.

Bathroom preparation

Work should be divided into two categories. It is one thing if the bathtub is installed in a newly renovated room, and quite another thing if the old equipment is being replaced with a new one.

In the first case, you do not need to prepare anything. Full repair, involves the preparation of the foundation. Note that floor tiles, if they cover the entire area of ​​​​the room, should be laid on the adhesive applied in a continuous layer, and not on several points. Otherwise, a bathtub filled with water, and even with a person inside, can break through the tile.

But this flaw can be leveled if two boards are placed under the legs, placing them along the length of the bath. The wood material is larch. From contact with water, the resins contained in the larch polymerize, and after a while the boards will be impossible even to cut with a hacksaw.

In the second case, it is necessary to revise the flooring. Pay special attention to the places where the legs of the new bath will be. It is possible that new supports will lie in a different place.

In addition, it is necessary to measure the level at which the bath will adjoin the wall. With a high probability, it can be assumed that the walls are tiled not to the floor. And after the old bath, at the place where it adjoins the wall, a clearly noticeable line remains. It's unlikely to be wiped off. Microscopic particles have penetrated into the pores of the glazed coating, with the formation of an inseparable conglomerate. If this defect cannot be eliminated, then it should be hidden. For this purpose, boards should be placed under the legs of the bath ( as described above).

Heated drying oil is applied to the boards in a thick layer. Then they can be painted in such a color that they do not differ from the dominant background.

Separately, we recall the optimal height of the bath. In the USSR, experts calculated that it is most convenient for an average person to raise his leg in order to step into the bath, to a height of no more than 60 cm. This parameter was included in the SNiP as a recommendation. But now there are many more models of bathtubs on the market, with different overall dimensions. So be guided by this case, should be your own preferences.

However, you need to know about one interesting feature. If the bath drain is located at least 3-5 cm higher than usual, then the water will flow faster. This will no longer allow blockages and deposits to form in the drainage fittings. Even on the drain grate, there will be no hair left.

If tiles were not laid under the bathroom, then it is recommended to slightly raise the level of the floor in this particular place. Even 1 cm of added height will be enough to keep water out of the tub.

This will require:

• Quick-drying self-levelling screed (20 kg):
• Deep penetration primer;
• Guide metal profile;

The floor surface is treated with a primer, and during its drying, with the help of a metal profile, a side is arranged. To do this, the profile is cut in such a way that it fits exactly in length between opposite walls. Adhesive tape is glued to the back, this will not allow it to be grabbed with a screed. Having laid, the profile is screwed through the side wall with self-tapping screws to the floor in 3-4 places. Then the screed is diluted according to the instructions on the package, and poured into a fenced area. The layer thickness is selected individually. Considering that ≈ 15 kg of the finished solution is consumed per 1 m 2 of the screed with a thickness of 1 cm. And from 20 kg of dry mix you get ≈ 30 kg of solution, then the screed layer in the bathroom will be 1.2-1.5 cm.

The next day, the dried screed is once again coated with a primer.

Bath preparation

Special preparation requires only an acrylic bath. She needs to be supported. There are three options:

1. Legs. The standard solution for short-sighted users. A widely advertised option, but has several weak points. In particular, it is necessary to make blind holes in a monolithic case in several places. This increases the tension of the material. Self-tapping screws will be screwed into these holes, which, after filling the bath with hot water, also heat up. And their coefficient of thermal expansion does not match the same parameter for acrylic.
   Yes, and the load is expected to be significant. 130 liters of water + 70 kg weight of a person. That's 200kg on two flimsy supports. A very dubious choice.
2. Frame. Great alternative. Strong reliable frame made of profiled pipe, based on 6-8 legs. The integrity of the bath body is not violated. She's kind of in limbo. Please note that there are frames for all models of acrylic bathtubs.
3. Stand made of bricks or blocks. Cheap and capital option. But somewhat inferior to the frame, because there is no lateral support.
4. If the bath is old, then plan the installation for the last stage. Only after the base is completely mounted, you can start this work.

In objective consideration, there is no alternative to the frame. Depending on the shape of the bath, its price varies from 1800 to 2600 rubles. It is delivered disassembled. Connection of all components is carried out at the installation site of the bath, according to the attached instructions. IMPORTANT: the legs of the frame are height adjustable. After assembly, screw them in an equal number of turns, until the middle of the thread. This will make it possible to later more freely perform horizontal alignment.

Metal baths, both steel and cast iron, do not require special preparation. But they have one flaw that is easy to fix. We mean the high thermal conductivity of the metal. Such baths quickly heat up, and just as quickly give off heat to the surrounding air. This disadvantage can be leveled with the help of 3-4 cylinders of polyurethane foam. It is treated with the entire outer surface of the metal bath. After polymerization of the foam, the cooling rate of water decreases by an order of magnitude. As a bonus, this treatment almost completely absorbs the sound of rushing water. If this is not essential for a cast-iron bath, then it is relevant for a steel bath.

In addition, the legs are screwed into the seats into the steel baths. TIP: between the body of the bath and the end of the threaded leg, we recommend laying a rubber gasket. This will further reduce the noise during water collection.

Assembly of the siphon group

Bathroom fittings sold separately. They are divided into two groups:

1. prefabricated;
2. Whole.

In the first case, the siphon group is assembled on threaded connections from small plastic parts. All curves are rectangular.

In the second case, the siphon is represented by a curved pipe. All bends are smooth, there are no threaded connections.

A one-piece siphon looks trivial, but it has huge advantages.

1. The more threaded connections and parts, the higher the likelihood of leaks;
2. Smooth bends do not impede the flow of water, draining is faster and the likelihood of deposits and blockages is extremely low;

And besides this, the siphon is not a subject for demonstration, and no one will see it except you. Therefore, an objective choice is a siphon with a solid body.

Its assembly consists in screwing through the cuff, the overflow system.

Bath installation

The bath must be installed by two people. Regardless of the material, this is a large-sized piece of furniture and one simply cannot cope with it.

For work you will need:

• Rule with a level;
• mallet;
• Adjustable wrench for leg adjustment.

The cast-iron bath is installed in the allotted place. With a properly prepared base, no adjustment is needed.

The acrylic bath is installed inside the assembled frame, and is slightly pressed down, until a characteristic click. This click means that the bathtub is in place and seated on the frame. Since the frame is prefabricated, it is required to adjust the plumbing according to the level of the horizon. To do this, it is better to use the diagonal method.

As a rule, the bathtub is laid diagonally, and if required, unscrewing the leg, raise the lowered side. Then the rule is placed on another diagonal, and again aligned, raising the lower edge. IMPORTANT: alignment is carried out only by lifting the low side. Lowering the high - you can not.
A steel bath is placed similarly to a cast-iron one. And the alignment according to the level of the horizon is carried out as in the acrylic counterpart.

Drain fitting connection

The assembled siphon group must be fixed at three points:

1. Drainer;
2. overflow;
3. Sewage pipe.

First, fittings are installed in the drain hole. Fixation is carried out with a screw through the drain grate. The gasket is put on the drain itself, it has a specific shape, and provides sealing from both sides at once. TIP: apply between the gasket and the body of the bathtub, a little silicone sealant. Do not tighten the screw all the way.

Then, by adjusting the height of the corrugated pipe, the overflow is fixed. Here the gasket is installed outside the tub. It has a conical shape, and the “point” is directed “from the bath”. The screw is tightened to the end.

After that, press the screw on the drain hole.

TIP: the screw stops turning as soon as the plane of the drain grate begins to sag.

The last one is inserted into the sewer, the sewer. To facilitate this process, lubricate both the pipe and the entrance to the sewer with laundry soap.

Screen installation

Almost always, steel and acrylic bathtubs are completed with screens. For cast iron, it must be purchased separately. But in any case, a ready-made screen is a more acceptable option than a home-made plastic construction.

To install it, you will need an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver.

Screen panels are assembled into a single structure. The legs are screwed into the seats and pressed to the maximum.

The screen is installed under the front edge of the bath, strictly vertically, focusing on a plumb line. Then the legs are unscrewed, and the top of the screen is pressed against the edge of the tub. On some models of acrylic bathtubs, there is a special groove where the top edge of the screen enters.

Complete fixation is accompanied by a characteristic click.

It is one of the most important premises for the organization of life and comfort. It helps to relax after a hard day at work and cheer up before work. This makes such a process as installing a bathtub very important and responsible. How the further arrangement of this room is planned largely depends on this.

First you need to decide on the installation object itself. The fact is that bathtubs differ among themselves not only in size, but also in color, shape, material of manufacture. It can also be noted that all the difficulties and technological solutions in such a process as installing a steel bath are no different from those when installing a product from another material. Color also cannot play a significant role in installation, but the size and shape can cause certain difficulties.

That is why the bath should be chosen, first of all, according to the size of the room where it will stand. At the same time, such parameters as color and material of manufacture, as already mentioned, go by the wayside. Since installation exceeding the allowable dimensions is as difficult as it is difficult.

Having decided on all the elements of plumbing, before the installation itself, it is necessary to start preparing the room. Its walls must be fully treated with antifungal impregnation and, if possible, fully tiled. Many choose not to process the piece of wall below, hoping that installing a bathtub will cover it and thus solve the problem. Such an approach can be called a gross violation of not only the aesthetic appearance, but also the technological process, as well as safety precautions. Since it is in such unprotected places, which are almost never cleaned due to inaccessibility, that mold and fungi form. They release toxins dangerous to humans and can cause serious harm to health. Therefore, before the installation of the bath begins, it is necessary to carefully process and prepare the room.

After all plumbing items have been placed, they should be connected to the necessary communications. Usually this is sewerage and plumbing, but in some cases electricity is also required. Such installation requires compliance with all the rules of operation and safety, if possible, it should be entrusted to professionals.

When the installation of the bath is completed, and the rest of the plumbing has been connected, all holes between the walls and appliances should be sealed with a special silicone sealant. Moreover, the sealant must be purchased with antibacterial properties, since in a damp environment, which is often present in such premises, there is a high probability of mold or fungus formation. It is because of this that it is not recommended to “sew up” the bath completely, but it is advised to leave a small hole for ventilation.

Properly designed with the use of reliable materials, the bathroom will bring comfort and coziness to its owners, and will create a wonderful mood in the morning.

Without a bath, it is difficult to imagine a comfortable home.

There was a time when bathtubs were made even from wood, and then from marble, copper, cast iron, silver and gold.

Steel bath is considered the most durable and has its advantages:

• light weight (easy transportation and installation);
• heats up quickly because it has a metal base;
• cheaper than cast iron or acrylic;
• enamel coating is durable.

Of the shortcomings, the most serious:

• cannot retain heat for a long time;
• insufficiently stable;
• makes a lot of noise when filled with water.

Disadvantages can be easily eliminated if you use mounting foam for this. Before installing the bath, it is enough to turn it upside down, moisten it with water and foam - it turns out like a thermos.

After the foam dries, cut off the excess with a knife. To make the steel bath more stable, the legs can be supplemented with a brick pillow (or use it instead of the legs).

Room preparation

It is better that the bath is installed on metal supports with adjustable tips and self-adhesive pads. This method is more reliable and safe when installing a bath.

In the corners of the bath, you can use supports made of timber by attaching them to the wall. This technique will strengthen the bath, it will become more stable in case of load on the corners.

Before installing the bath, first clean the place of the intended installation:

• removed plumbing fixtures;
• the siphon is disconnected from the sewerage system (the hole is closed with a plastic cover);
• the old bathtub is removed (if its legs were cemented, then they are removed from the cement layer);
• walls are aligned at right angles.

Installation steps

Bathtub installation includes several stages:

• the bath is turned upside down and supports are attached to it;
• when installing the bath, all operations must be performed carefully so as not to damage the enamel;
• when the bath is put in place, it must be leveled by adjusting the legs;
• joints are sealed with mounting foam;
• additional supports are installed (a bar of the desired size is attached to the wall);
• with the help of fasteners, a plastic panel is installed that closes the bath.

Possible ways

You can install a steel bath on your own using two methods:

• installation on legs;
• masonry installation.

Installing a steel bathtub with legs it should be remembered that over time the supports may weaken and the life of the bath will be reduced. In this case, hooks are used (usually they are used when installing water heaters) and a brick pillow is laid under the bottom of the bath.

The bathtub is installed on legs and leveled. The contour of the bath is marked on the walls, and the bath is removed.

In the marked places, holes are drilled into which the hooks are screwed (directed to the side or down).

The bath returns to its place, is again leveled and the hooks are tightened - while the bath is pressed against the walls.

When using a brick pillow a row of bricks is laid under the bottom of the bath (you can fasten them together with mounting foam, and so that the foam does not “lift” the bath up, it is better to fill it with water).

When installing a bathtub using brickwork, you need the skills to work with such masonry. Bricks are laid out columns on which the bath will rest. Under the bottom of the bath, it is also required to build a brick pillow.

The main difficulty that people who install a steel bath on their own may encounter: the pillow and posts must be at a certain height from the floor. To do this, the columns, if they are low, can be plastered with mortar.

Necessary tools and materials

To install a steel bath yourself, you will need the following tools:

• a rule (a rigid bar, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bathtub) is required to level the bathtub with a level;
• fork wrench (to tighten the release parts);
• rubber mallet (for shrinking the legs when assembling the bath);
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• spanners;
• building level;
• mounting foam;
• sealant;
• siphon;
• fastener elements.

Step-by-step instruction

After the place for the installation of the steel bath is prepared, the following steps must be performed:

How to avoid errors during installation?

There are rules that you need to know about when installing a steel bath with your own hands:

• only the upper edge is set according to the level, since the design provides for a slope towards the drain;
• do not use corrugation when connecting the siphon to the sewer;
• do not overtighten the screws that attach the legs to the bath (tighten them only by hand, otherwise the enamel may break off);
• do not use rubber pads under the legs or the bottom of the bath (the bath can spring on them and a crack forms between the wall and the bath);
• a steel bath requires grounding;
• usually the bath must be raised higher than the factory adjustment screws allow. It is impossible to use coasters made of rubber or wood for these purposes (the former will spring, the latter will dry out);
• leave access to the tub piping (to clean the siphon).

Watch a video on how to install a bath with your own hands and what you need to consider: