The furnace for a bath from a brick of continuous action. Brick oven for a bath: design features. Masonry mortar preparation

In baths designed for one family and heated with wood, brick stoves-heaters of periodic action are usually used, in which stones are heated by flue gases passing through them. Such furnaces are about 30% more economical than combined furnaces and allow faster heating of stones to the required temperature. With intensive heating of the furnace, the lower layers of stone filling can be heated up to 1000-1100 ° C, the upper layers - up to 500-600 ° C. At such temperatures, the soot burns out and the stones remain clean. The only drawback of intermittent furnaces is the need to wait for complete combustion of the fuel or to remove the remnants of unburned fuel, so that carbon monoxide did not get into the bath when the chamber was opened.

The most compact are metal stoves of a simplified design without a tank for heating water. On fig. 51 shows one of these structures. In a metal box - a body with doors - grates with a stove are laid on the shelves from the corners, forming the bottom of the combustion chamber. Bricks are installed on them along the perimeter of this chamber, forming a screen to reduce thermal radiation. Case thickness - not less than 4 mm. Steel gratings are laid on the bricks, fixing the bricks in a vertical position and serving as a pallet for stone backfill. All internal parts are installed through a removable cover. During the top-ke of the furnace, flue gases enter the pipe, passing through the stone backfill. Water is heated in buckets or rectangular tanks placed on the lid.

Rice. 51. Metal heater of periodic action1- frame;2, 3 - doors;4- a shelf;5- grate;6 - plate;7 - bricks;8 - stones;9 - lid;10 - latticesteel

The most perfect heaters with built-in containers for heating water. They can replace the brick reinforcement of the combustion chamber from one or more sides, and can also be made in the form of a wall of the entire furnace.

The domestic industry does not yet produce metal batch furnaces. However, such a stove can be assembled from a washer stove and a metal barrel by making a steam door in the barrel and providing it with nozzles for connecting to a washer stove and a chimney.

On fig. 52 the external view and diagram of a metal heater of a foreign design are given. The furnace has internal reinforcement. The damper and channels for supplying secondary air to the firebox provide more complete combustion of the fuel and its economical consumption.

Rice. 52. Heater of foreign design1 - metal case;2 - reinforcement;3 - firebox door;4 - grate;5 - blower door;6 - dampersecondary air;7 - manhole cover; 8-smoke exhaust cartridgeside;9 - stones

On fig. 53,a the external view of a brick stove-chi-heater of a reinforced design without a water-heating tank is shown. The firebox is made of refractory bricks and has a slot vault for stone filling. The width of the gaps (the distance between the brick arches) is 5-8 cm.

For a more complete use of heat, the stove is equipped with chimneys in the form of sinkholes and a common prefabricated chimney connecting the upper part of the stone chamber with a chimney (not shown in the figure). In order to increase the strength, the furnace is enclosed in a frame made of steel corners. On fig. 53, b shows a diagram of a brick stove with a hot water boiler. The stone chamber has two doors. Sometimes chimneys are made that pass flue gases from the space around the boiler to the lower part of the stone chamber.

Rice. 53. Brick ovens-heaters of periodic actiona- without hot water tank;b -with hot water boiler

On fig. 54 the external view and the scheme of the heater with a hot tray for the water tank are given. The foundation for it is laid 4 rows of bricks lower than for other structures. This ensures air heating below the floor (warm floor) and the installation of a water tank at floor level. The flue gases from the stone chamber enter the horizontal chimneys below the ash pan through the drain channel and enter the vertical chimney. When the stove is kindled, the lower damper is opened, which communicates the stone chamber directly with the vertical chimney. After the appearance of draft in the pipe, the lower damper must be closed.

Rice. 54. Brick heater with a hot tray for a water tanka - appearance and design;b- laying order

A two-burner stove can have other sizes. It can also be replaced by two single-burner stoves with dimensions of 47x32 or 48X32 cm. Steel plates with a size of 15X5X0.3 cm (you can change the dimensions) are laid between the 3rd and 4th rows of bricks. It is advisable to take the rods for laying between the bricks of the 13th and 15th rows smooth, so that during thermal elongation they easily slide between the bricks. It is convenient to use crowbars for this purpose. Holes in the masonry at the ends of the rods must be sealed with asbestos cord and plastered on the outside. The inner rods can be closed from above with a blind plate. In this case, it is necessary to install a steam door on the side of the chamber, similar to the top-liver door. The stove above the stone chamber can be used to heat water in buckets.

The designs of brick stoves, both periodic and combined, are diverse. Everyone improves and adapts them in their own way, based on the availability and size of available appliances, hot water tanks, boilers, etc. Sometimes electric, gas stoves and water heaters, laundry stoves are used to heat water, and to heat a room baths and steam generation - heaters of a simplified design. They are convenient in baths with a usable volume of more than 15 m 3 for large families and in small public baths. For an example on rice. 55 another design of the stove-chi-heater is given, which allows you to simultaneously heat the steam room, washing room and dressing room. It is heated from the pre-bannik, the steam door goes into the steam room, and the heating shield - into the washing room. On the shield there are two lowering channels and one lifting channel passing into the pipe. A ventilation grill with a valve is inserted into the wall of the lifting channel from the side of the washing room to remove steam from the washing room. The damper can only be opened after the furnace has been completed and the dampers of both downcomers have been closed.

Rice. 55. Heater with heating plate1, 2, 3 - doors blower, furnace and for var;4, 5 gate valves for the drain and lift channels of the heating shield;6 - cleaning doors;7 - masonry of the combustion chamber from refractory brickswhose

V. A. Safin We are building a bath. - M .: Stroyizdat, 1990. - 192s.

I must say that although I am a big fan of the sauna, the baths in which the stoves are built, I really like the way described below. Many people love them more, and tolerate them more easily than a sauna (yes, take my wife, for example). Using the method described in the article, a stove was built in the bath and my grandfather - and to be honest, rest after a steam room in such a bath turns out better and you feel better after it. It's probably a matter of tradition anyway.

Types of stones.

Brick bath stoves (otherwise called heaters) are of 2 types: periodic and continuous. Traditional, real Russian baths were heated exclusively with stoves periodical action. Previously, in ancient times, they did not have pipes, and they were heated in a black way - that is, the smoke went along the ceiling of the bath. They began to make stoves with chimneys only from the beginning of the 18th century, and even then they began to heat baths on white, that is, as we do now.

Furnaces Periodic action cannot be heated while you are steaming or washing in a bathhouse, because then smoke will also penetrate into the bathhouse along with the steam from the stove. These stoves are heated for three, five or even more hours before going to the bath. Stones heated by an open fire can heat up to 900 ° C, and the steam from such a stove is given off the way connoisseurs of the steam room love - light, non-burning, dry and easily portable.

Continuous heaters, in which cobblestones are placed in insulated metal containers, have appeared relatively recently. The advantage of such stoves is that they can also be heated during bathing procedures, and the disadvantage is that the stones separated by the walls of the container from an open fire do not warm up above 600 ° C. The steam in such heaters turns out to be “raw”, burning the human body.

Fire fighting measures. When installing a periodic heater, it must be remembered that this design is the most fire hazardous of all household stoves. A ton of cobblestone heated to 900 degrees and three or four tons of brickwork heated to a high temperature represent a great potential hazard. In order to avoid trouble, during the construction of the heater it is necessary to follow the rules of fire safety. True, there are no special rules for heaters.

Moreover, some bans and restrictions have recently been lifted and baths have been built, as anyone pleases - of immense size, two floors, with chambers of stone filling for two tons, etc. And this, in my opinion, is unacceptable.

Features of the design and masonry of the heater.

Kamenka stoves have structural differences from other household stoves. So, they do not provide descending chimneys and, if the stove is large, “unoccupied” space appears to the left and right of the blower. It is advisable to use it for arranging through niche channels in order to store poker, tongs and other utensils in them. They, among other things, increase the heat-releasing surface of the furnace.

In order for the firebox, which is large in heaters, to get enough air to burn firewood, the blower and the blower door must also be of sufficient size.

For a more free flow of air into the firebox, it is better to lay the grate along the blower. But on sale it is difficult to find grates for the entire length (depth) of the blower, so it is often necessary to lay short grates across the blower.

The firebox and the stone filling chamber are lined with fireclay bricks, which are best placed on a mortar (a solution of fireclay clay and fireclay with special additives) with an indent from the outer walls of the furnace of 8-10 mm. The lining will expand from high temperature, but the gap will protect the outer walls of the furnace from cracking. Instead of fireclay (fireclay "groats"), sand should not be used. It breaks down at high temperatures.

The firebox is arranged so that its height from the grate blows up to the laying of the cobblestone is 8-9 rows of masonry (56-63 cm). It is impossible to reduce this distance by bringing the cobblestone closer to the fire for more intense heating of the stones. In this case, the result will be the opposite.

The fact is that when burning wood, the highest temperature is at the top of the flame. At a short distance, the top of the flame will rest against the cobblestones, the flame temperature will drop on them, and the unburned soot will settle on the surfaces of the stones and in the cracks between them.

Laying arches with your own hands.

One of the problems when arranging large heaters is the arrangement of grates on which the stones are located. From the high temperature and gravity of the cobblestone, the grate is constantly deformed and fails. Even railway rails laid instead of grates can be deformed.

In the heater, instead of grates, it is better to make brick arches (or a vault with holes), on which you can put rail sections. This will create a solid foundation for the stone backfill.

Before laying an arch or vault, notches are made on the prepared formwork on the brick beds for better adhesion. Then the brick is rubbed or washed by briefly immersing it in water. It must be remembered that fireclay bricks should not be heavily wetted.

First, the brick is laid without mortar - for "shooting". When laying on a mortar, the bricks are upset by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet, and the castle one is upset more carefully. The solution should be of medium density.

After an hour and a half, the formwork must be dismantled, and 3-4 bricks should be placed on the arch. As a result, the arch will receive a prestress in order to withstand the loads from the stone backfill in the future. The mortar in the seams between the bricks of such an arch will be dense and durable, and it will last a long time.

If the folded arch is left on the formwork for a week or longer, due to the large shrinkage of the masonry mortar, the solidity of the masonry will be disturbed (clay mortar has a volumetric shrinkage of up to 5%.) Slits invisible to the eye are formed between the bricks of the arch. The longer the arch remains on the formwork, the weaker it will be.

Stone chamber.

The dimensions of the window for the exit of steam from the stone filling chamber should be such that it is possible, if necessary, to climb through it into the heater to replace cobblestones or grates, as well as for other repairs.

The distance from the rails to the window is made no more than 50 cm (seven rows of masonry). This is due to the fact that the top of the cobblestones should always be at or below the shelf in the steam room. The lower the steam source, the more efficiently it will be used. In addition to the door in the window, it is necessary to install an internal damper. Thanks to her, the wall of the steam room, opposite the window, will heat up less, and heat will be better preserved in the chamber. For more intense heating of the backfill, the walls of the chamber can be lined with sheets of fire-resistant steel. It's expensive and inefficient.

The total height of the chamber is made with the expectation that there are at least four rows between the top of the backfill and the vault (ceilings). At a lower height, it will be difficult to splash water on distant stones. The blocking of the chamber of stone filling is always arranged one or two rows above the lintel of the chamber window. This part of the chamber is a smoke collector - during the kindling of the heater, it will not allow smoke to enter the steam room.

Between the arch and the rows of the main ceiling of the furnace, it is necessary to leave a sedimentary gap in one row of masonry. The gap is also used as a chimney to the chimney, allowing it to be installed on any corner of the furnace.

Orders and sections of the furnace:

1 - smoke damper; 2 - stripes and corners; 3 - railway rails R-70 for laying cobblestone on them; 4 - steel tube 050 mm for additional steam or water heating; 5 - furnace door; 6 - blower door; 7 - grate fireboxes; 8 - cobblestone of volcanic origin; 9 - temperature gaps; 10 - through niches-channels for storing pokers, tongs and other small items; 11 - damper of the steam outlet window; 12 - steam outlet door; 13 - ceiling cutting.

Ceiling section.

The most dangerous place in the steam room in terms of fire is the ceiling around the chimney. So that this place does not heat up unnecessarily, the pipe at the point of passage through the ceiling is placed with thicker walls - with a ceiling cut. For heaters, the wall thickness of the pipe here is 38 cm or 25 cm with additional thermal insulation.

The outer dimensions of the pipe cutting are 76 × 76 cm. But at the place where the pipe passes in the ceiling, a large opening is arranged - 86 × 86 cm. Gaps of 5 cm on each side between the brick and the ceiling material are filled with basalt wool or other fireproof material.

Ordinary brick begins to collapse at a temperature of 700 ° C, so it is better to lay the ceiling cutting from fireclay bricks. For greater decorativeness, some details of the furnace (extension at the bottom, skirt, cutting elements) can be made from bricks that differ from the rest in color.

Materials needed to build a stove

STOVES FOR THE BATH WITH YOUR HANDS - OPTIONS FROM READERS

We make a stove for a bath from a potbelly stove with our own hands

A bath for a summer resident is not a luxury, but a prime necessity. And if so, she needs a simple, economical and efficient firebox.

Such a " barrel stove» for the bath I made from two metal barrels. As a stove, you need to take a barrel with a capacity of 200 liters, and a second, smaller barrel can be welded to the first and used to heat water. I welded such a barrel with a capacity of 90-100 liters to the stove. But at the same time, he bent one of its walls so that the future water tank would fit well against the wall of the stove.

And in front of the furnace, he cut a hole for a pipe, which he filled with stones to accumulate heat. Cut the pipe to the width of the oven. At one end, he drowned it out and inserted it into the hole in the furnace, and then scalded it along the end. To prevent stones from falling out of the oven, I made a special grate (see fig.).

Then I cut a square hole for the firebox, made a door and a blower. Each summer resident must install the stove in such a way that it is convenient to maintain it and “give it to the park”.

I think that my stove meets such requirements as simplicity, cheapness and reliability. It is especially pleasing that you can go to wash in such a bathhouse literally half an hour after kindling.

Manufacturing

Taking into account the dimensions of the old furnace and the room, he prepared a drawing of a new design (see Fig.). Partially dismantled the old furnace, leaving only a firebox with an afterburner pipe. The cracks in the masonry were covered with clay.

From sheet steel 10 mm thick, according to the drawing, I welded a rectangular box for the heater and a water tank. In the heater, I cut out the necessary openings for the doors on the side of the steam room (photo 1) and washing (photo 2). as well as holes for the afterburner pipe. In the latter, from the side of the steam room, I cut out a rectangular opening and closed it with a door (see photo 1 p. 1).

I installed the finished heater on the firebox, strung it on a pipe, welded the joints from above and below. Installed a chimney on the stove.

I fixed a water tank on the firebox (photo 3). The walls of the washing department adjacent to the stove were sewn up with tin for fire safety purposes.

For better heat supply to the steam room under the doors of the heater, I drilled nine holes d 20 mm (photo 4). I painted the body of the heater and the tank with heat-resistant silver, and whitened the stove.

Tests

When he flooded the stove, the bath measuring 2.3 × 3.3 × 2 m warmed up to readiness in 1.5-2 hours. A 100-liter water tank is heated in the same time to a temperature of 95-100 degrees. To prolong bathing procedures, thanks to a pipe with an afterburner, you can throw firewood at 3 logs per hour.

Furnace Advantages

Three positions for space heating:

A - the doors of the heater in the steam room and in the sink are open - simultaneous heating of two rooms.

The B-door of the heater in the steam room is closed, and in the sink it is open - more heat in the washing compartment. On the contrary, accelerated heating of the steam room.

B - All doors are closed - heat accumulation mode in the heater.

Two firing modes:

A - with a fully open blower door - the fastest heating of the bath.

B-with the door closed - maintaining heat in the bath, for example, in the summer.

The wide window of the heater in the steam section allows you to safely pour water onto hot stones.

Which oven is best?

The main thing in the bath is the stove-heater. Previously, it was built of brick. Now you can just buy a finished metal structure. The main thing is to choose the right one among the many options.

All stoves-heaters are divided into three types according to the type of energy carrier used: wood, electric and gas.

Wood

The minimum formation of smoke and the absence of burning, which means that the procedure for taking a bath will be not only useful, but also safe for health.

All models use special elements that eliminate the risk of burns.

Variety of shapes and colors.

Cheaper electric and gas stoves.

Soot accumulates on the stones and must be cleaned regularly.

Electrical

No need for a chimney.

Eco-friendly. Any contamination is excluded.

They have a temperature control and regulation system.

– High energy consumption of 1 kW/1 sq. m.

Both rooms heat up very quickly.

Able to heat water well. A scheme for passing the chimney through a special tank is used.

- The need for a gas pipeline on the site.

The firebox is made of refractory bricks and has a slot vault for stone filling. The slot width is 5–8 cm. For. the strength of the furnace is finished with steel corners.

The stone chamber has two doors, often chimneys are made that pass flue gases from the space around the channel to the lower part of the stone chamber.

Foundation. The construction of a massive brick stove-heater begins with the installation of its foundation. So that the furnace does not settle and does not tilt due to moistening or freezing of the soil, the foundation is deepened by at least 0.5 m. Its transverse dimensions should be larger than that of the furnace by 1 brick (half a brick in each direction ). The distance from the foundation of the furnace to the foundation of the wall is at least 5 cm. The gap between them is filled with sand. The bottom of the pit is rammed and leveled.

The best foundation is concrete or rubble concrete. In dry soil, it can be made of bricks using lime, cement or lime-cement mortar.

Lime mortar is prepared from slaked lime and sifted sand, taken in a ratio of 1:2 to 1:3. Cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is usually 1: 3) is prepared in small portions in order to have time to use it before setting. To prepare a lime-cement mortar, take 1–2 hours of lime and 6–16 hours of sand for 1 hour of cement, depending on the brand of cement and the fat content of the lime. The surface of the foundation is poured with cement mortar, leveled with a rail and covered with waterproofing, usually roofing felt or roofing material in 2 layers.

Masonry material. The main material for laying furnaces is an ordinary solid brick of the 1st grade.

It is not allowed to use perforated and silicate bricks, as they quickly collapse. Hard-melting and refractory bricks are recommended for laying and lining the furnace firebox. Hard-melting bricks are suitable for burning firewood, refractory (chamotte) - for burning coal, liquid fuel, gas. Often furnaces are built from used bricks. They must be cleaned of mortar and soot. They should be laid with the smoky side inward, otherwise rusty soot spots will come out even through plaster and whitewash. Before use, bricks (except for refractory and refractory ones) are immersed in water for 1–1.5 minutes, since dry brick dehydrates the mortar and reduces its binding capacity.

The mortar for laying the furnace is prepared from clay and sand, taken in a ratio of 1:1 to 1:2, depending on the fat content of the clay. Clay should be soaked 1 day before laying. Then water is added to it in such an amount that, after mixing, a creamy mass is obtained. This mass is filtered through a sieve, the same amount of sand is added and mixed thoroughly. The sand must be passed through a 1.5 mm sieve. If watery areas (lakes) appear on the surface of the solution, then add sand and mix the mass again. A good solution does not contain lumps, has a rough surface, does not stick to a shovel and is easily squeezed out of the masonry seam when you press the brick with your hand. For laying refractory and refractory bricks, a solution of clay and mountain sand or fireclay is used.

Seams. The main requirement for masonry is to ensure the tightness of the seams so that even a small amount of combustion products that can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning do not penetrate into the bathhouse. Masonry seams are filled with mortar to the full depth. Their thickness should be minimal: for ordinary bricks no more than 5 mm, for refractory and refractory bricks - no more than 3 mm for the entire depth. The solution is spread by hand, from the master it can be put only to the bottom of the top-liver and the bottom of the smoke channels.

The inner surfaces of the furnaces must be smooth, therefore, chipped and sledge bricks are laid with rough edges outward. Every 4-5 rows of masonry, the inner surfaces are rubbed with a wash brush or a rag soaked in water without adding a solution.

The laying of the next row is started only when all the bricks of the previous row are laid. It is advisable to first lay the bricks of each row and fit them together, and then put them on the mortar.

Checking the correct angles. After laying the first row, check the correctness of the corners with a square or cord. After laying the 2nd row, guide cords with cut-offs are installed at the corners of the oven. The cords are hung with nails from the ceiling, and from below they are wound on nails pressed into the seams between the bottom two rows.

Binding of bricks. When laying bricks, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for ligation of bricks: each vertical seam must be covered with a brick of the upper row. Bonding of ordinary brick masonry with refractory or refractory brick masonry is not allowed, as they expand differently with increasing temperature.

Furnace appliances. Furnace instrument doors, valves, grates, stoves, hot water boxes (built-in water tanks) - are installed simultaneously with bricklaying. The frame of the door is fixed in the masonry by means of paws (clamps) made of mild steel strip (hoop iron). The paws are attached to the frame with rivets. Before installation in place, the frame is wrapped with asbestos cord or cloth. In the absence of asbestos, between the frame of the firebox door and the brickwork, a gap is left around the entire perimeter with a width of 3–4 mm so that the frame, when heated, does not push the masonry apart. To ensure the strength of the jumper from above, the door of the firebox is blocked in the “lock” way (the middle brick is placed with beveled ends on the beveled ends of neighboring bricks). Other doors and frames of dampers (latches) are fixed in the masonry with 2 mm wire (the wire is embedded in the masonry).

Grate. The grate is installed with slots along the firebox. A gap of at least 5 mm is left between the edges of the grate and the masonry bricks to expand the grate. The gap is filled with sand. The same gap is left between the stove above the firebox and the masonry.

Fuel tank. An important part of the stove is the top-liver. For wood burning, its smallest width is 25 cm (in one brick), the smallest height is 35 cm. With an increase in the height of the firebox, the conditions for burning fuel improve. It is desirable that it be 40–60 cm, depending on the size of the furnace. In the lower part of the wall of the firebox, they are made with a slope towards the grate, so that during combustion, the coals settle on the grate. Under the firebox, they are located below the frame of the furnace door by at least 1 brick, otherwise coals will fall out when the door is opened. It is desirable to make the bottom of the ash pan also below the blower door.

Smoke circulation. The uniformity of heating and the efficiency of the furnace depend on the design of its smoke circuits - channels for flue gases. Their inner surface should be even and not smeared with clay mortar, which quickly falls off and clogs the chimneys.

Overlapping. The upper wall of the furnace, called the ceiling, consists of three rows of bricks laid flat with dressing. If the vertical seams of the ceiling coincide, they must be covered with pieces of steel sheet.

Pipe. The pipe for the heater is usually made mounted, that is, on the stove array. At the same time, the thickness of the walls of the furnace and the pipe must be at least half a brick, the cross section of the smoke channels and pipes must also be at least half a brick.

The pipe is brought to a height of at least 0.5 m from the roof surface using cement or lime mortar (clay mortar is easily washed out by rain and condensate that can form inside the pipe).

Safety measures at work. When constructing the oven, care must be taken not to fall or drop bricks or tools. To work on the roof, a horizontal platform is installed for the stove and a box or bucket with a solution. The site must be fenced from the side of the slope and attached to the rafters. If the platform is small, then the stove-maker must put on a safety belt tied to a reliable part of the roof. The shackle and eyes of the bucket must be tested for strength.

After completion of construction and drying, the furnace is tested with a trial firebox, which is carried out in the presence of fire authorities. At the same time, an act on the safety of the furnace must be drawn up.

Fire safety measures. For the purposes of fire safety, the distance between the brick surface of the stove and the combustible structure (wooden parts of the bath) must be at least 40 cm if the structure is not protected from fire, and at least 25 cm if such protection is available. If the furnace and the pipe are metal, then these distances are increased to 100 and 70 cm, respectively. There must be a free distance of at least 10 cm between the brick pipe and the wooden parts of the roof (rafters, sheathing, sheathing).

When using a metal or asbestos-cement pipe, the nearest wooden parts of the ceiling and roof must be covered with felt impregnated with clay mortar, and additionally upholstered with roofing steel. The gap between the pipe and the roof is closed with a galvanized steel apron. On a wooden floor in front of the furnace door, a metal sheet with a size of at least 70 × 50 cm is installed.

Plastering. For greater safety and giving a pleasant appearance, the oven is plastered with solutions of the following composition (by volume):

• gypsum: lime: sand 2:2:1
• clay: lime: sand 1:1:3
• clay:sand 1:2
• clay: cement: sand 1:1:3

It is desirable to add 0.1–0.2 hours of asbestos to any solution. It should be taken into account that the mortar with gypsum can set in 15-20 minutes.

Preparing for plaster. For plastering, the surface of a completely dried oven is cleaned of clay, the seams are cleared to a depth of 10 mm. It is even better to cover the stove with a grid with cells of at least 15 × 15 mm, attaching it with nails and washers, or wrap it with wire, also attached to the walls of the stove with nails.

The sequence of applying layers and whitewashing. To ensure the thermal expansion of the individual parts of the furnace, it is heated until it warms up well, moistened with water and a continuous layer of plaster is applied. After setting the first layer, a second layer of plaster is applied, then the next one. The total thickness of the layers should be 10–15 mm. The last layer is carefully leveled and rubbed. If the plaster is made with lime and has a gray surface, it is not necessary to pour it white. A very dark plaster surface can be whitewashed with a solution of lime and a small amount of clay added so that the painted surface is gray instead of bright white, which will irritate the eyes. Be sure to whitewash the pipe within the attic to make it easier to detect cracks.

Pipe processing. If the pipe is metal or asbestos-cement, then the junction of it with brickwork must be sealed with a waterproof mortar (cement or lime-cement), and the outside of the pipe must be covered with thermal insulation, otherwise in a cooled pipe (at a flue gas temperature below 100 ° C) condensation will form, which impregnates with moisture and destroys the upper bricks of the furnace, reduces draft, and in winter it can lead to the formation of an ice plug in the pipe.

Pipe insulation. Pipe insulation is performed by enclosing it in a sheet steel casing. The gap between them with a width of about 5 cm is filled with mineral wool.

Deflector. To improve traction and protect the pipe from precipitation, a deflector is installed on its upper end, which ensures the suction of gases from the pipe using the wind.

Although metal sauna stoves have been invented for many years, most people still prefer traditional brick ones. Such a choice is due to the fact that it is the “living” material that is able to create the most comfortable level of heat for a person and the optimal amount of steam, as well as give the room a cozy atmosphere.

Peculiarities

The main advantage of brick ovens for baths is a certain vaporization technology, which is achieved due to the unique properties of bricks. A person in the room breathes easily, feels "soft" warmth and enveloping steam, saturated, but not burning. When the metal is heated, infrared radiation occurs, burning oxygen in the steam room and burning the skin. It is not surprising that brick heaters are preferred by people who take care of their health and choose comfort.

Brick construction comes in a variety of sizes and designs., which means it can fit into any bath that demonstrates the individuality of the owner. As a rule, furnaces are built with a base of 3.5 by 4 bricks (89 by 102 centimeters), or 4 by 5 bricks (102 by 129 centimeters). The height without a pipe can be 168 or 210 centimeters. The most popular is the model with a tank for heating water.

Advantages and disadvantages

When giving preference to brick ovens, it must be remembered that they have both certain advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages are the following:

• attractive appearance and the ability to fit into any bath interior: both made of wood and brick;
• such a furnace will please the owner much longer than an iron one: unlike metal, brick is a material that will not be spoiled by small defects;
• no need to carry out additional finishing work;
• the emerging steam has a beneficial effect on human health;
• the heated brick will not begin to release hazardous chemicals into the air;

• a brick oven better maintains a high temperature throughout the bath;
• for kindling, fuel is used that is sold on any construction market, as well as the simplest raw materials that do not even have to be bought: sticks, branches, newspapers, dry moss and others;
• in a room with a periodic heater, you can steam for 2-3 days, and it will not cool down;
• if, after bathing procedures, you simply do not close the door to the steam room, then the oven will dry the bath itself;
• the chimney does not require monthly cleaning, unlike a metal firebox.

However, there are also some disadvantages:

• the furnace structure itself is quite large, you will either need to initially build a large bath, or you will have to sacrifice some square meters;
• if mistakes are made during the assembly process, the oven will not hold the temperature well, and the room will cool down quickly;
• brick is a rather expensive material;
• the services of a professional stove-maker are also very expensive;

• due to the large weight of the stove, a solid foundation will be required, the depth of which should be below the freezing point of the soil, and the foundation for the stove should not be tied to the foundation for the very structure of the bath house;
• building a heater is a long-term and labor-intensive task;
• to completely melt a bath with a brick oven, it will take a long time, up to 6 hours.

Kinds

There are 4 main variations of sauna stoves:

• "in white";
• "in black";
• "in gray";
• with a plate.

Black-fired stoves do not have a chimney, and have been used in villages across the country for decades. All fumes and smoke leave through the steam room itself - in a natural way through the cracks and gaps of the roof. Of course, this is how the best steam and aroma arise in them, and it becomes very pleasant to wash, but at the same time you have to wait until all the firewood burns out. When choosing stoves "in black", it is recommended to treat the inner walls of the bath with a special solution that can prevent the occurrence of soot residues. Black baths have a very high efficiency, and therefore, when using them, you can save on fuel.

Next in complexity are furnaces that are heated "in a gray way". They have a chimney, and therefore the bath warms up much faster. However, you still have to wait until all the fuel has burned out, as soot is deposited on the stones. The walls do not get dirty with soot, but when liquid is applied to the stones, a small amount of soot microparticles appears along with the steam from the furnace. This design can be direct-flow and with channels. In the first case, the stones located above the firebox are on fire, and the gases are released into the air through a pipe, and in the second - through two valves.

Furnaces "in white" warm up the room for up to 12 hours, but do not pollute the stones, therefore they are considered the most environmentally friendly. The process is as follows: the overlapping metal plate is heated from the fuel, and from it the stones, which will store heat for several hours. This method of heating appears to be the most expensive - a large amount of firewood and other materials is consumed. Previously, the box in which the stones were put was made of ordinary black iron, but now it is made of heat-resistant stainless steel. Traditionally, white-baths have two separate spaces: a dressing room and a steam room itself. To warm both rooms, one side of the stove goes into the dressing room.

In the fourth case - with a stove - stones and a water tank, the placement of which can be changed, are heated by two cast-iron stoves. One of them is located above the firebox, and the second - above the chimney. On three sides, the slabs must be protected by a brick screen, which will provide a high temperature of the water. Such furnaces are usually built independently.

According to the type of fuel used, stoves are distinguished:

• wood;
• melted with coal;
• natural gas;
• diesel fuel;
• wood chip briquettes;
• electricity.

According to the type of construction, they are divided into furnaces:

• with an open heater (typical for a Finnish sauna);
• with a closed heater;
• combined.

The heater in the first case is called flowing, and the stove itself is called periodic. In the second case, the heater is direct-flow, and the stove is continuous.

Batch stoves are usually chosen by large families when a lot of people go to wash, but the duration of the steaming process is short. They have thick walls that store heat for a long time and provide the necessary service life of the bath. The smoke passes through the stones before entering the chimney. The volume of stone filling in such a heater is much larger than in permanent heaters.

Bath stoves of constant action have a minimum wall thickness and the volume of stones located in an insulated metal box above the firebox. Their main advantage is the ability to use the steam room during the melting process. Stoves with a closed heater are also safer. Heating is carried out inside the body through the wall, which is common for the heater and the firebox. Stones store heat much longer, and the air in the steam room at the same time has a stable optimum temperature. It will take about 4-5 hours to warm up the air in such a bath.

Separately, it is worth highlighting such a variety as a stone stove-fireplace for a bath. This design has an attractive design, but has a low efficiency. If you install a fire-resistant glass valve, you can protect yourself from flames and enjoy relaxation in a warm room. That is why fireplaces are often installed in the "waiting rooms". Modern technologies make it possible to design mini-heaters. This design quickly warms the bath, but even after the fuel has completely burned out, the heating of the room remains. Its length and width are usually 2 bricks.

Design and style

There are various ways to design brick ovens.

• With the help of plaster, you can make relief patterns, or simply create a neat, smooth surface. Paint or decorative plaster is applied over the plaster.
• Painting is the easiest option. In this case, it will only be necessary to paint the stove with 1-2 layers of very resistant paint.
• If you need some creative and spectacular solution, then you should turn to lining the furnace portal with tiles or stone in a consistent or chaotic manner. In the event that the fireplace is planned to be closed, glass cladding is selected, and the brick itself will serve as decoration. In general, the stove can be lined with natural stone, majolica, unglazed terracotta, clinker tiles and porcelain stoneware.

When thinking about the color for the stove, it is recommended to be based on interior design. For example, the loft style implies artificially aged hand-moulded bricks. For a classic interior in calm, light colors, as a rule, light yellow brick is used. Thanks to modern materials, it is possible to paint the stove in any light.

If there is a desire to decorate a log bath in a Russian rustic style, then it is best to assemble the stove with your own hands. Usually it is tiled or simply plastered and painted white. It is also necessary to take care of the substrate, which can be glass-magnesite sheets or drywall.

Masonry schemes

If it has not happened before to build a heater, then it is recommended not to take it personally for drawing up a drawing, but to find a ready-made order and use it. Currently, various masonry schemes are used, the most complex of which are chosen by professionals, and the simple ones by amateurs. In both cases, the result is satisfactory, and the oven works efficiently. In addition to traditional masonry methods, the ordering of Kuznetsov's bell-type bath stoves is also distinguished. This design takes up much less space.

Initially, the oven is laid out dry in order to draw an ordering plan. It must be remembered that standard schemes are not suitable for all rooms, therefore, for each bath, they must be created individually, making the necessary changes to existing ones. Once you have a clear understanding of how each row is done, it's time to start the main assembly.

Ordering always begins with the foundation of the furnace, the so-called zero row. At this level, the installation is continuous, but a half-window is usually left on the side in order to create additional traction and clean the chimney shaft. At the next level, ligation is carried out - this means that the row is shifted by 30-50% to make the structure stable. If you need halves or quarters of a brick, it is recommended to use a grinder with a diamond disc. It must be remembered that such elements cannot be located in chimneys, the shafts of which are always assembled from solid bricks, but only inside the structure.

At the third level, a damper usually appears, and the installation of the ash pan door begins. The fourth row indicates the appearance of a soot sampling door. At the sixth stage, as a rule, the shaft is divided into two parts using a jumper, one of which will become the slab shaft. On the twelfth row, one of the mines will be laid, and one main one will remain. Usually, at the twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth stage, the masonry of the main structure ends, and then the chimney is laid.

Drawings and projects

The design of a sauna heater differs from traditional designs: it has a special space for heating stones, which allows you to heat the steam room at a high speed. There are two main designs of such a stove: grate and non-grate.

In a grate stove, firewood is placed on a small grate or grate. This device also serves as the bottom of the furnace, and primary air is supplied through it for ignition. Through the holes in the grate, the ash goes down, thus making room for a new portion of fuel. The best material for this element of furnace fittings is cast iron, as it is more stable than steel. Such furnaces have high efficiency, high combustion intensity, and are very easy to maintain.

There are one-piece grates that cannot be disassembled, and typesetting, consisting of several parts. In the first case, when buying a part, you need to focus on the available area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace, and in the second, you can assemble an element of the required size yourself. Steel grates are produced by chain or pipe. Steel are tiled, basket, beam and movable.

The grate-less furnace is also called hearth. Firewood is placed on a sub-deaf floor, on which it is also possible to cook and bake, and air is supplied through the firebox door. In such furnaces, “top burning of fuel” occurs, when the front spreads from the upper layers of the bookmark to the lower ones as it burns, which is considered a more environmentally friendly way. For such stoves, only wood materials are used: firewood and briquettes.

Some craftsmen assemble stoves "by eye", since they believe that both the assembly of a brick oven and the iron lining are so simple that preliminary calculations are not needed for them. However, it is better to make preliminary calculations. Both the thermal regime and the amount of steam in the room depend on the correct design. Otherwise, it may happen that the air heats up very quickly, and the stones remain cold.

The parameters are calculated based on the dimensions of the room: length, height and width. The power of the furnace is also calculated depending on the volume of the steam room: 1 kilowatt of energy is required for each cubic meter.

How to do it yourself?

To independently fold a standard oven, the first step is to choose the right brick. The material must be very strong, capable of withstanding high temperatures and possessing refractory properties. The best option is considered to be a pale yellow brick based on refractory fireclay clay. It should be borne in mind that it is an expensive material, therefore, when building a home-made furnace, it is supplemented with solid red brick. For example, fireclay bricks are used for fragments that are subjected to the most intense heating, and to enclose external walls, chimneys and decorative elements, a red hollow brand M with a number from 75 to 150 is used.

When choosing a brick, you should follow a few simple rules:

• When struck with a pick or hammer on a quality brick, a sonorous and clear sound will be heard;
• The brick must meet the standard parameters: 250 by 120 by 65 millimeters;
• A quality material has no pronounced damage and defects, with the exception of filiform cracks and grooves;
• If a brick has a "micaceous" film, this indicates a marriage.

To build a brick oven, you will need knowledge of block laying and compliance with a single order. First of all, a waterproofing layer is installed in the base of reinforced concrete in order to cool the foundation. At the same stage, an under-furnace for storing inventory is formed. Then the preparation of clay and sand begins to connect the elements, because cement is not suitable in this situation. The clay is thoroughly cleaned of stones and impurities beforehand and soaked for several days. It is recommended to take samples mined at a depth of 150 centimeters below the surface of the earth. Quarry or river sand is carefully sieved for pebbles or pieces of pebbles. After that, the clay must be stirred, diluted with clean water without a musty smell and combined with sand prepared in the same way.

When using clay with a high fat content, it is recommended to dilute it with sand in proportions of 1: 2. To check whether the mixture is correct, you must use a wooden stick. It is dipped into the solution, and if the resulting layer has a thickness of 2 millimeters, then you can get to work. Experts also recommend giving preference to the clay underlying the selected brick, that is, either red or fireclay.

At the next stage, it will be necessary to lay out brick blocks. As a rule, this will require ordering, a square, pliers, a broom with a scoop and an emery wheel. Each brick is pre-immersed in water to ensure that all air bubbles are released from the pores and that dehydration of the mortar is prevented. Fireclay bricks are not recommended to be immersed in liquid for a long time, a few seconds are enough to remove dust. Masonry starts from the corner. The first row is laid on a dry foundation, without applying a sand-clay mixture.

At some point, a water tank is also installed., plates, and, if necessary, a grate, as well as fixing the doors. Regardless of the laying method, the key parts remain the same: a refractory brick firebox, a chimney, a water tank and an ash pan consisting of a cast-iron stove, firebox and understove. Drying of the sauna stove takes place within 4-5 days with open windows in the room. After this period, you can begin to heat it with small chips once a day, for a maximum of 10-15 minutes. While the condensate continues to rise to the surface, the furnace is not yet ready for full operation. If desired, after that, you can also carry out finishing, for example, tiling with tiles.

When constructing a stone oven, the following rules must be taken into account:

• leave at least 50 centimeters between the stove cover and flammable structures;
• more than 1 decimeter should remain between the brick chimney and the wooden parts of the bath;
• a gap will appear between the smoke channel and the roof, which must be covered with a metal plate, for example, made of galvanized steel;
• the floor in front of the base of the stove is also covered with a metal plate about 10 millimeters thick, it will prevent sparks and coal from getting on a flammable surface;
• the weight of the furnace together with the pipe, but without the foundation, should not exceed 750 kilograms;
• before laying, all bricks are carefully sorted, products of the same thickness are selected to get even seams - the best samples are for smoke channels and fireboxes;
• the stove is recommended to be built near the wall, which is opposite to the shelves in the steam room.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Decorative eye-catching finishes for beautiful and stylish stoves.

• A massive wall-length stove-heater will become a bright accent of the steam room. It can be decorated with tile inserts, finished with stone and original brickwork. The rest of the interior details, including basins with ladles, are made of light wood. Brooms are an organic accessory.

• If you want to design a high-tech bath, you need to use a concise small heater, possibly a mini one, and shiny metal sheets in the interior. The latter can also act as protection for wooden walls.