Humus in a barrel. How to make compost in a barrel: installation methods, laying raw materials, ripening dates. Metal mesh compost bin

compost pit This is a place for the disposal of organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, garden debris decomposes in it, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilizer. In the article, we will consider options for making a compost pit with our own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of the simplest heaps of garbage, are present on every personal plot. But the right designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from auxiliary building materials available in the country.

Compost pit principles

The main function of the compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, earthworms, the number of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, a fairly high temperature and humidity must be maintained inside the compost heap with a regular supply of oxygen.

To do this, the compost tank must have the following design features:

Make compost boxes from any available materials. These can be boards, slate trims, corrugated board, metal building mesh, and even car tires. More capital structures are built of brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable utilizers in metal or plastic barrels.

The main sanitary requirement for the construction of a compost pit is its distance of 20 meters from water bodies and sources of drinking water. Rain streams should not drain from the compost heap in the direction of wells, wells, pools.

Choosing a site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of groundwater contamination, a threat to human and animal health. Do not place a compost pit in wetlands or in places with stagnant water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully colored shields, fenced with loach plantings and perennial ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

In a garden or backyard, you can use the simplest tools to make a quality structure and turn a pile of garden debris and decomposable household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are a wide variety of types of compost heaps, from earthen ditches to real concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost pit:

1. In the ground, a site is selected away from residential buildings.
2. On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, the top layer of turf and soil is removed.
3. The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
4. The bottom is covered with a sand cushion to drain excess water.

The first layer performs the function of drainage and promotes aeration of the pile and consists of cut branches.

They are laid in layers:

• cut grass;
• dry foliage;
• sawdust;
• household food waste;
• manure;
• weedy herbs.

Layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil, spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to grind all the ingredients before laying, simply chopping with a shovel.

The total height of the pile should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with a covering material or a slate shield. In hot weather, a pile is watered with ordinary water.

Under natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons. This is the easiest and most economical way to get compost.

Use EM drugs. A temperature of +4°C inside the compost heap is enough for microorganisms to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from boards

For ease of use and speed up the recycling process, the compost bin is made from boards. The optimal size of the compost box is 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

Lay garbage in such a container through the top according to the general principle, starting with the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost already from below.

Photo: drawing of a compost box, composter diagram

Variants of compost pits made from boards

Slate is durable and is perfect for the walls of the compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a composter from slate:

1. Marking is done at the location of the compost heap and deepen cut-to-size sheets. They can be fixed with an external, wooden or iron crate.
2. In another embodiment, metal pipes are buried in the ground. A frame of bars is attached to them. Outside, it is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. A cover for the pit is made from plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the pit with a film or garden covering material.

Compost pit from corrugated board

When making a compost bin from corrugated board, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

1. At the chosen place, a base is constructed from a metal or wooden block.
2. The dimensions of the pit are chosen according to the length of the sheets, which allows you to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
3. The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
4. Outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
5. It should be borne in mind that the metal surface becomes very hot during hot summer periods.
6. From above they make a shelter for their plywood or boards. It is desirable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Metal mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from a metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

To simplify, you can put a large plastic bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste according to the principle of a compost pit. And also compost can be made in special bags that are sold at garden centers.

Concrete compost pit

A concrete compost pit creates many benefits:

• Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
• Such a pit is durable and reliable, not affected by adverse environmental conditions.

It is desirable to make it large, into two or even three compartments. Compost of different seasons will ripen in the first and second blocks. The third store bags of finished compost.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

When operating a concrete pit, it must be taken into account that the composting process is slowed down. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special products to it.

Other material options for the compost pit

Compost pit from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron barrels are great for composting:

1. We cut down both bottoms with a chisel and put them near the track.
2. We put weeds, mowed grass, kitchen waste in layers in a barrel.
3. To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black, pour the compost with a solution of ammonium nitrate (a matchbox on a bucket of water).
4. We get the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

1. Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
2. Then we put them on the priest and connect them with wire or rope. Cover with a lid on top.
3. The advantages of this design are the easy accessibility of the contents of the barrel for worms and bacteria from below.
4. To get ready-made compost, you only need to untie the rope, and you will receive two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

The ideal material for a compost bin is plastic. In conventional compost heaps, compost takes two years to mature. In plastic barrels with a capacity of 150-200 liters, liquid compost can be prepared in two weeks.

For this:

1. We fill the barrel with cut grass or weeds to half, and fill it with water to the top.
2. After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
3. After using the solution, you can again add water to the barrel and let it brew for one week.
4. Having spent the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is folded into a compost heap.

Brick compost pit

A brick compost pit is made in three walls. It can be done with or without cement mortar. On a cement mortar, a compost pit is made no more than 1 meter high. Between the bricks you need to leave gaps for ventilation.

A brick compost pit without a cement binder is convenient in that it can be moved to another location if necessary.

In the compost pit, you need to provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from available material. The front wall is made temporary so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

Garden debris can be successfully stored in the inner cavity of the concrete ring and compost can be obtained as a result. For comfort the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

The disadvantages of the design include the absence of an underestimated front wall. To unload the finished compost, you need to climb inside. Otherwise, very durable compost chambers are obtained from such reinforced concrete products.

Compost pit according to Finnish technology

If there is no desire to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter using Finnish technology. It is modern with two containers, with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.

When the container is full, it is pulled out and another is inserted. Due to the high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with earth or sand and fertilized with plants. The empty container is washed and returned to its place.

Do not confuse compost and cesspool. Organic matter from the garden plot is stored in containers for making compost. The remains of protein food should be disposed of in a cesspool.

What can and cannot be put in a compost pit?

Thanks to composting, the amount of waste in landfills is reduced, and our vegetable gardens and orchards receive additional fertilizer.

In the compost pit, first of all, organic garden waste is laid, in the form of:

• branches;
• dry foliage;
• cut grass;
• weeds;
• straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

• food leftovers from vegetarian food;
• egg shell;
• onion peel.

You can layer the compost with manure and chicken manure.

The prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are:

• construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
• remnants of printed products;
• plastic.

Do not compost leftover protein and oily foods, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues, weeds with matured seeds and with roots that can take root well, such as:

• thistle;
• wheatgrass;
• loach.

Drought-tolerant plants should be dried before being placed in the compost pile so that they lose their ability to root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it slowly decomposes and takes up nitrogen. And also do not use feces of domestic animals and humans when composting.

Preparations for the compost pit

The main task of preparations containing biological activators is to accelerate the decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job with the processing of organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

1. Compost preparation can be significantly accelerated by using Baikal EM. This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
2. The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They are engaged in the processing of organic matter into humus, and also prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
3. The bioactivator has similar properties. The Green-Master bioactivator package must be diluted in 20 liters of warm water, let it brew for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks, you need to turn a bunch of pitchforks. For the preparation of compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is sufficient.
4. Good results are obtained by the drug "Compost Boost" for composting.
5. Manufacturer Lucky summer resident produces "Biocompostin"- compost preparation. Saneks plus releases the EcoCompost product.
6. Manufacturer Dezon Bio K produces several types of drugs:"Green all-rounder", "Compost of one season", "Compost for the next agricultural season", "Bioactivator for compost".

By using preparations, microbiological processes can be significantly accelerated and compost can be obtained in 2-3 months.

Preparations-bioactivators for compost

Rules for the operation of a compost pit

After the construction of the compost box and its filling, it remains occasionally to look inside and, depending on the changes taking place, correct the decomposition process.

Tips for using the composter:

1. In dry periods, it is necessary to water the compost with plain water, preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of some types of beneficial bacteria.
2. At least once every two weeks, you should loosen the compost heap., thereby providing an influx of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
3. Add "Effective Microorganisms" to your compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
4. To speed up the process, you can add a ready-made compost substrate, which contains a full range of microbiological activators.
5. If the pit design does not have a top cover, then simply cover the top with a black garden cover, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the structure.

Summarizing

Creating a compost pit does not require serious material investments. You can make it with your own hands from improvised materials, which are always enough in any personal plot.

Having spent a little time on making a compost pit, in the future you will not have to solve the problems of disposing of garden and household waste.

Adding compost to vegetable beds is perhaps the most rational, safe, and also environmentally friendly method of increasing soil fertility. It minimizes the use of mineral fertilizers and contributes to a tremendous increase in the diversity of microorganisms in the soil, which in turn process organic matter and make it available to plants.

However, composting organic waste is not as easy a task as it might seem at first. If you delve into the study process, it turns out that this is not just a “method”, but a whole science of how to turn organic matter into a nutrient substance that will turn out to be much more easily digestible for plants, mineral fertilizers did not live, the fashion for which seems to be slowly, but comes to an end right.

So, for example, organic waste must be interbedded with earth. Also, the compost must be shaken at least a couple of times during the entire composting period, shifting from place to place. This is done so that the mass is saturated with oxygen, and aerobic microorganisms receive an impetus to development in it, instead of anaerobic ones - for example, putrefactive bacteria.

The interbedding of the compost with earth and its shaking is not only time-consuming, but also relatively labor-intensive. In order to simplify the task, we decided to build a compost barrel that would be equipped with a swivel mechanism and could do the work for us.

To make such a summer "helper" you will need:

1. Materials:

Barrel (we took plastic);
- plywood 6 mm;
- a wooden block with a section of 50 by 100 mm .;
- furniture rollers, which are usually used in the manufacture of furniture - 4 pcs.;
- nails;
- self-tapping screws.

2.Tools:

Electric jigsaw;
- wood saw;
- screwdriver;
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- a hammer;
- a marker or pencil.

Step 1: making the lid

We chose plywood, 6 mm thick, as the material for the barrel lid.

Set the barrel on a sheet of plywood with the neck towards the surface and outline its outline. Cut out the resulting circle using a jigsaw.

Saw small squares from the bar. We need four in total. With a pencil, “write” an imaginary square into the circle and fix one square in each corner using nails or self-tapping screws (see photo below). To prevent the parts from splitting, pre-drill the holes for the fasteners with an electric drill.

In addition, drill a couple of dozen holes in the lid itself. This will provide the necessary aeration of the mass and prevent the development of unwanted bacteria and organisms in it.

Step 2: making the frame

The manufacture of the frame will not take much time, since its design is extremely simple and is a rectangle of timber with braces installed at the corners, providing it with rigidity.

The length of the frame is arbitrary, however, it should be slightly larger than the length of the barrel installed on it. While the width is 1/4 less than the size of the barrel. Considering these remarks, carry out the necessary calculations.

We took a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm., But, in fact, you can choose any other dimensions that will provide the structure with the “load capacity” required from it.

We made the braces from scraps of plywood. According to the test results, it is clear that it is quite suitable for these purposes.

Step 3: Installing the rollers

During operation, the barrel will rotate thanks to the rollers. Our frame is ready, so proceed to install the rollers.

Each pair should be fixed on the long side of the frame as shown in the photo - slightly stepping back from the edge. Use self-tapping screws for fastening. This will greatly simplify the process of replacing the rollers, adjusting their location or adjustment.

If you are afraid for the safety of the barrel, choose rubber-coated rollers - they will not scratch the walls of the container.

Please note that the closer the rollers are to the neck and bottom of the barrel, the more stable the whole structure will be.

Step 4: install the stop

The emphasis in this design is designed to ensure that the barrel does not slip to the side during rotation. It is fixed on the frame and is a regular piece of board. Subsequently, it will hold the barrel in an axial position.

Step 5: Installing the Lid Lock

As you can see in the photo, the "fixer" is a set of rubber bands with hooks, which are usually used when transporting goods. You can find these in any market. Their length should not only ensure a snug fit of the lid, but also not prevent the removal of the harnesses. For convenience and reliability of the connection, it is necessary to drill several holes for hooks around the circumference of the neck of the barrel.

Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers in your garden? Then this article is for you. Look around. Right under your feet is what, if properly used, will become humus, which can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.

Interesting fact:
Already in the X century, the secrets of making compost
were known to the Slavic tribes,
for example, the Polabian Slavs.

Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer, which any gardener, gardener and summer resident can get without unnecessary material costs and without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to know how to cook it right.

Rule 1
Where and what is the best way to compost

There are two options:

Compost pit/heap
Compost bin or barrel

Benefits of a compost pit/heap

No need to look for additional materials and no need to build anything. You just dug a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 m x 1.5 m in size and put organic remains (kitchen waste, weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (you will get a bunch over time).

If desired, when the pit is filled flush with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has long overcome this mark. But I haven't built anything yet.

If the compost pit / heap is supported by walls, then comfortable conditions will be created inside the pit for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen

Disadvantages of a compost pit/heap

There is a compost pit on my site, which has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky, looks untidy (fortunately, it is located behind the barn and hidden from view). And most importantly - I can not shovel it.

In a compost pit for 1 year it will not be possible to obtain high-quality compost. It will take at least 3 years. But in it, it is apparently invisible. Worms are free there, they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that the husband digs for worms when he goes fishing. And carp on such a worm are excellent.

(pelvis diameter - 40 cm)

Compost bin or barrel

In the garden, I also placed a box and two compost bins. It's comfortable. While plant residues for compost are collected in one container, the compost ripens in another container under the lid, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.

I adapted a leaky metal barrel and a cracked plastic one for compost. I additionally punched holes in the bottom of the plastic.

The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that with my short stature it would be convenient for me to put plant residues in them and pour out the slop.

My compost bin is made from boards. But you can make it from cement-bonded particle boards 20 mm thick or metal mesh.

Benefits of barrels or boxes

Can be placed anywhere in the garden/garden.
Thanks to its compactness, it won't take up much space.
Looks more aesthetically pleasing than a pit/pile.
Thanks to holes and crevices, we get a kind of ventilation, which means that enough air enters the future compost, which is so necessary for the life of microorganisms.
Ready compost can be taken from the lower layers (through pre-made holes) as needed.
In a barrel or box, the compost does not dry out and does not wash out.
A barrel or box with ripened compost can be adapted for growing cucumbers or zucchini. It turns out a kind of high bed.

Rule 2
What can be put in compost

1. All plant residues and weeds from garden beds and gardens, except:

* weeds with mature seeds
* diseased plants
* weeds treated with herbicides

Plant residues that are not suitable for compost I put in a special pile, hidden behind the fence in the back. Or take it out of the field.

2. Mowed grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and, if any, peat.

Speaking of fallen leaves.
Leaf litter significantly improves the quality of the compost. But it all depends on the type of wood. For example, linden leaves, containing a lot of lime, quickly decompose and form neutral humus, thereby enriching the compost.

3. Household (kitchen) waste, slop.

If slop from the kitchen is regularly poured into the compost barrel, then the barrel can not be specially watered. And so it takes up to 3-4 buckets of water per day.

4. Ash and, if any, bird droppings.

The alternation of layers occurs by itself, which has a beneficial effect on the compost. The fact is that vegetable peelings, weeds, cut grass contain a lot of nitrogen, sawdust - carbon, ash - potassium and trace elements.

Manure (slurry) I don't compost. Firstly, we do not have this "good". Secondly, with manure there is a risk of introducing diseases and pests into the compost. Here it is necessary to ensure that the compost rots for 2 years, or maybe 3, depending on the conditions.

It is not necessary to add earth to the compost heap. This can lower the rotting temperature and thus slow down the organic composting process.

Rich harvests to you,
Katerina Shlykova

Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form active link to the corresponding page on the website.

For lack of space for a stationary composter, you can equip it in a conventional plastic or metal barrel. It is better to use plastic, and for ease of mixing, hang it in a horizontal position and attach a handle for rotation. The compost in the barrel will mature evenly and it will take less effort to shovel the contents.

Old metal containers quickly rot under the influence of moisture, and plastic is neutral.

In addition, you can buy a barrel of any size, depending on how much waste accumulates on the site. If only leaves and grass then a volume of 120 - 150 liters will be enough. If there is vegetable and fruit waste, tops, weeds, manure, then you need to take 200 - 300 liters.

Benefits of using a plastic composting barrel

If a wooden compost box is equipped on the site, then sooner or later the bottom will rot under the influence of the same bacteria. If there is no bottom, then the nutrients will go into the soil under the box irrevocably. It is much more economical if the composter has a bottom and is resistant to microorganisms.

Do-it-yourself composter from a barrel can be made aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, it is necessary to organize regular air access to plant residues. This compost matures faster. If you use accelerators - bacterial preparations, then you can get fertilizer in 1 - 1.5 months.

Video: Compost barrels

For anaerobic fertilization, the compost barrel must be airtight. It is tightly closed or dug into the ground. The leftovers take longer to rot, but the fertilizer is more concentrated, as all the nutrients remain inside. Such compost is not used for seedlings in its pure form, but is always mixed with soil.

A barrel compost pit is easier to make than concrete storage, although concrete is also a very good material for a stationary composter. To immerse the barrel in the ground, it is enough to dig a hole corresponding to the size of the container.

You can wrap the walls and bottom with mineral wool or other heat-retaining material. In such a pit, it will be possible to make fertilizer even in winter. The hatch will serve as a plastic cover, which is sold in the kit.

How to make a barrel composter

There are many ways to prepare compost in a dacha in a barrel. The easiest is to leave it in the garden without digging into the ground.

To make a horizontal compost barrel, you need some tools and additional materials - wood or metal pipes. The first step is to weld or knock down the frame that will hold the barrel filled with compost raw materials.

It can be something like a bed with welded support pipes or wooden bars. A barrel will be attached to them, in the center of which a metal pipe passes. In order not to damage the plastic, a PVC pipe is put on the metal - it is smooth and durable.

How to prepare a barrel:

• Make a hole in which the raw material will be laid. To do this, cut a rectangular piece in the wall. With the help of metal canopies on one side, a piece of plastic becomes a door. On the other hand, it is necessary to provide a latch so that the ingredients do not fall out during scrolling.

• On both sides - in the bottom and in the lid, holes are made to pass the pipe through.

• The lid closes tightly and the barrel is put on the pipe, strengthening it on the frame. You can make a handle for convenience, but many do without it.

Summer residents attach wheels to the base of the bed and transport the composter for the winter to a warm place - a barn or pantry.

Preparation and laying of raw materials

Before you make compost in a barrel, you need to prepare the raw materials. It should be a mixture of nitrogen and carbon containing components. At the same time, nitrogen is laid 4 times less. Nitrogen-containing include all green components and manure. To carbon - straw, cardboard, dry leaves, sawdust, bark, cut branches of trees and shrubs.

Each ingredient needs to be sprinkled five centimeter layer of soil, so that soil bacteria get into the compost and begin to multiply. If you use biodestructors, then it is not necessary to add soil. Bacterial preparations can be bought at the store or prepared with your own hands from fermented milk products and yeast.

After laying compost withstand 5 - 6 days with the lid open and then inverted. When shoveling on the bed, the lid is closed, then opened again to allow access to oxygen. In the future, the compost is turned every 3 to 4 days. This speeds up its maturation.

To get the finished fertilizer, a bucket, wheelbarrow or other container is placed under the lid and the required amount is poured out.

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In order to make a compost barrel with your own hands, you needed:

two 200 l plastic drums, a metal pipe (of such a diameter that it does not bend under the weight of the drums), a PVC pipe, 4 door curtains, 2 latches, M12 bolts and nuts, wooden beams 6x6 cm, and rails 6x4 cm .

Installation of a "compost barrel"

In the barrel in the middle of the side with an electric jigsaw, I cut out a 36 × 28 cm window for loading raw materials. From the inside, I screwed a strip of metal to one of the long sides (photo 1) - this is a stopper so that the door does not fall into the container.

I fixed the cut-out piece on the curtains (opposite the metal strip), attached a handle to it (photo 2). I added two latches that hold the lid closed. Over the entire surface of the container with a drill, I drilled chains of holes d 12 mm at a distance of 10 cm from each other. In about half of the holes made, I inserted M 12 bolts 10 cm long (photo Z) (longer possible) and secured them with nuts so that the ends stick out into the container. In the same way prepared the second barrel.

A piece of PVC pipe should be put on the metal pipe so as not to damage the edges of the barrels during rotation.

At the ends of the containers, I drilled holes in the center and inserted a pipe, which I fixed horizontally on a wooden T-shaped base 110 cm high from beams and slats into pre-drilled holes of a suitable diameter.

Loading compost into a homemade barrel

For compost I use chicken manure, straw and some soil (you can use dry leaves, grass mowed in the area, chopped eggshells, food waste) - I load them into barrels and moisten them with water.

I rotate the drums every three days - the pins loosen remarkably and mix the biomass, which gradually decomposes under the influence of heat and moisture. With the usual method of composting in boxes knocked down from the boards, "ripening" takes from 6 to 9 months, and in my device it takes 1-1.5 months.

DIY compost bin - photo

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