Outlet in the bathroom: installation rules. Socket in the bathroom - where to install Location of sockets in the bathroom
In the old days, electrical appliances in the bathroom were not welcome. They were considered dangerous due to high humidity, and unnecessary: Soviet people do not need these excesses. But today in the bathroom it is necessary to place a lot of modern electrical appliances, large and small.
A modern bathroom socket is a convenient, reliable, beautiful and safe device. You just need to choose the right model, find the right place for it and install it correctly. After that, staying in the bathroom will become much more comfortable.
For the bathroom, you should choose sockets that are equipped with reliable protection against moisture. These devices differ not only in design, but also in the protection class, which is reflected on the body with a special marking: the letters IP and two numbers.
The first indicates the degree of protection against the penetration of solid particles, the second - the level and features of resistance to moisture. In bathrooms, it is recommended to use sockets with at least protection class four. IPx5 and IPx6 class devices are even more reliable, so these devices should be preferred if possible.
They are quite capable of withstanding even strong water flows.
This diagram clearly demonstrates the indicators of the level of protection of electrical appliances from external factors. This information will help you choose the right sockets for your bathroom
For the bathroom, it is recommended to choose sockets that are closed with a special protective cover. It is securely pressed by a spring that prevents accidental opening. The lid should fit very tightly to the body, even small gaps are unacceptable.
If additional efforts are required to close / open the protective cap, this indicates the reliability of the device. If the cover is slightly loose, you should not install such an outlet in the bathroom, the level of its protection against moisture may not correspond to the declared characteristics.
Sockets with a high level of protection against moisture are equipped with a special cover, which must fit snugly against the body of the device
Socket outlets with a cover but low splash protection are used in residential areas as a child-safe option. Therefore, you should not automatically consider a device equipped with a protective cover as waterproof.
Be sure to check the specification and labeling of the outlet. To increase the tightness of the device, protected from moisture, a special rubber edging is used.
Do not use tiles with holes instead of a waterproof socket housing. It looks original, but moisture can easily get on the contacts and cause serious problems.
The level of protection of the entire power supply system in the bathroom will not be reliable if the electrical wire is not chosen correctly. A standard cable is not suitable for such situations; a wire is required in a special protective braid that provides double insulation.
Unfortunately, the electrical appliance market is not immune from fakes. To increase the likelihood of buying quality equipment, you should contact reliable stores and give preference to products of well-known brands.
Do not neglect the opportunity to get acquainted with the quality certificate for the selected devices.
Bathroom zoning and electrical safety requirements
Electrical power is essential in the bathroom to power a range of useful home appliances:
- washing machine;
- electric shavers;
- hair dryer;
- heated towel rail;
- fan
- hydromassage in the bathroom or shower, etc.
You can not choose a place for an outlet in the bathroom arbitrarily, guided only by your own comfort. Safety requirements must be taken into account:
- The horizontal distance from the outlet to the water source should be more than 60 cm.
- The same vertical distance should be even greater - at least one meter.
- Only hidden wiring should be used, the cable is laid in the thickness of the wall or in a special protective box.
- In the socket, which is intended for installation in the bathroom, there must be such elements as a protective cover, an additional terminal for grounding and a rubber seal.
- Each outlet must be grounded.
- The connection points of the cable with the socket must be carefully insulated.
For safe installation of the outlet, the bathroom is divided into four main zones:
- The zero zone is not intended for the installation of power points, since this is the space that directly surrounds the place of water ingress (bath, shower, washbasin, etc.)
- The first zone is 60 cm from the water source, the area of intense water splashes. You can install a boiler here, but it is better to use other zones for sockets.
- The second zone is a space that is more than 60 cm away from the water source. It is allowed to install sockets with good protection against moisture, as well as elements of ventilation systems, lighting, heated towel rails, etc. here.
- The third zone is the space as far as possible from the points of water analysis and the safest. Here you can install sockets with an average level of protection against moisture, control panels for household appliances, switches, switchboards, etc.
Sometimes you still have to install sockets in hazardous areas: zero or first. In this case, it is necessary to use a device with the highest possible degree of protection IPX7. Such a device can work safely even when completely immersed in water.
This diagram shows the zoning of the bathroom for the safe installation of electrical outlets. The second and third zone are the most suitable
Another important condition is the correct connection of sockets in the bathroom to the house or apartment switchboard.
To do this, allocate a separate line, as well as install a protective device to turn off in case of an accident. Do not use this separate line to power other appliances.
Influence of condensate
In addition to splashes in bathrooms, there is another serious problem - condensation. The influence of this factor is less noticeable than direct splashes, but it is also very dangerous, especially if the outlet is located near a water source. This can be an outlet for an electronic toilet lid or a hydromassage shower.
Condensation accumulates in such places constantly, and it is almost impossible to eliminate its influence with the help of conventional ventilation. This is another reason to choose sockets in the zero and first zone with the maximum level of protection.
The requirement for the installation height of sockets in the bathroom is also associated with the influence of moisture that accumulates on the walls. The lower the outlet is, the more moisture will fall on the device in the process of moisture flowing down.
This requirement is also not always easy to comply with, in this case it is also worth giving preference to devices with the most reliable protection against moisture.
You should not solve the problem of power supply in the bathroom with a household extension cord, exposure to moisture can lead to a short circuit and breakdown of equipment
You can partially reduce the effect of condensate on electrical appliances in the bathroom if you take into account the following circumstance: more moisture accumulates on those walls of the bathroom that border the entrance.
These walls are less heated from the outside, and the temperature difference causes condensation. When thinking about the layout of the bathroom, you need to keep this circumstance in mind.
Grounding and RCD
Grounding is the most important part of safety when installing any electrical wiring, and even more so in the bathroom. What should the residents of old houses do, in which there is no ground loop? In fact, it is there, since all electrical systems are grounded without fail.
If this were not so, electrical accidents in residential buildings would occur much more often.
On the power panel where the electric meter is connected (usually located in the entrance), you need to find the screws in the metal case. They are the desired ground loop.
It is only necessary to connect the individual power supply panel of the apartment to this circuit using a single-core wire. Alternatively, grounding can be connected directly to the bathroom junction box.
Sometimes you can find recommendations for installing grounding on the fittings of a building or on metal pipes in a house. But if the potential equalization system was not provided for during the construction of the house, this measure will be useless and even dangerous.
Improper grounding can cause a short circuit or electrical injury.
The installation of an RCD - a residual current device - is not even discussed, it is mandatory. This device instantly responds to changes in the potential difference between the phase and the neutral wire. Electricity on this part of the electrical wiring occurs instantly, which helps to avoid accidents, equipment breakdowns and injuries.
For powerful electrical appliances, it is also recommended to install circuit breakers. For a boiler or a washing machine, you can use such a 16A device. For low-power electrical appliances, such a protective measure is not necessary. Any wire connectors, even hidden under a layer of tiles, are not allowed in the bathroom.
All connections must be made outside the bathroom and carefully insulated, including distribution wiring.
Socket installation procedure
Interesting information on installing sockets in the bathroom is presented in the following video:
To perform installation work, you must stock up on the following set of tools:
- cross screwdriver;
- pliers;
- indicator to determine the presence / absence of voltage on the wires;
- a device for safely removing the insulating coating from the cable;
- building level of any type;
- impact drill, etc.
To drill holes in tiles, you need a special nozzle for a drill, the so-called “ballerina”. You will also need socket sets. If several electrical appliances are supposed to be connected nearby, a separate outlet must be provided for each. In this case, it is more convenient to use double or triple sockets.
No tees or extensions can be used in the bathroom.
First you need to install a socket in the wall. If you need to make several sockets for household appliances nearby, you should choose a special model
First you need to prepare the walls for installing the outlet and laying the cable. To do this, in places intended for mounting sockets, round holes should be cut.
Their dimensions depend on the dimensions of the socket, which must fit freely inside. When working with concrete walls, drilling with a special crown for concrete is used.
From these holes should depart the strobes for the electrical wire. Usually they are made vertically upwards, and then they are led out of the bathroom wall along the ceiling. The number and size of strobes should be minimized, since their creation is a rather troublesome task.
Use a special saw for concrete or a jackhammer. The depth of the strobe should be sufficient to completely place the wire in it. If the sockets are located on a wall adjacent to the rest of the apartment, you can do without a strobe, the wall is drilled through and the wire is brought out to the outside.
The cable in a special braid is laid in strobes. If this is not possible, it is hidden in a special protective box. Open wiring in the bathroom is prohibited
A special socket box is inserted into the holes for sockets and sealed with alabaster. After that, a three-core cable with a cross section of 2.5 square meters is inserted into the socket. mm in a special braid.
Then the cable is led out of the bathroom through the strobe to the connection point. Alabaster is also used to fix the electrical wire. The cable is led to a junction box or to a switchboard with a circuit breaker, depending on the purpose of the outlet.
Of course, when working with wires, electricity in this direction should be turned off.
After that, you can proceed directly to installing the outlet in the bathroom. To do this, you must perform the following operations:
- Using an impact drill, drill holes for fasteners, usually these are special dowels.
- Prepare the wires by stripping their ends from the insulation layer with a special tool.
- Install the dowels in the prepared holes.
- Pass the wires through special holes with rubber plugs.
- Connect the bare ends of the wires to the outlet.
- Fix the socket housing on the wall, taking care of a snug fit with screws or expansion brackets, depending on the design and configuration of the device.
- Tighten fixing screws.
- Apply power to the outlet and check its operation.
A special device must be used to properly remove the insulating coating from the wires. You can also remove the insulation with a sharp knife, but this may damage the conductor. As a result, the conductor and socket will begin to heat up excessively and will soon burn out.
The device will have to be repaired or completely replaced. To connect the wire to the outlet, it is better to use special crimps so that the bare wire does not fray.
After the wire is inserted into the outlet, its bare ends are fixed with special screw clamps. The insulation must be removed carefully so as not to damage the wire.
To seal the strobe, you will need a liquid cement mortar and an ordinary construction spatula. Ensure that the cable is firmly attached to the strobe. At the end of the installation work, it is recommended to perform a test of the system under working load. To do this, connect the power supply and simultaneously turn on all electrical appliances in the bathroom at maximum power. Then, for some time, it is necessary to observe the operation of the equipment and the behavior of the protective device.
Good afternoon, dear guests of the Electrician's Notes website.
Today's article is about installing outlets in the bathroom. There are constant debates and discussions on the Internet about this.
The purpose of my article is to tell the whole truth about the installation of sockets in the bathroom or shower rooms.
You know that the bathroom room belongs to a room with increased danger (PUE, clause 1.1.13), therefore, special requirements are imposed on it.
So let's get started...
You can install sockets in the bathroom!
Yes, dear guests, it is possible to install sockets in the bathroom and shower rooms, I would even say it is necessary, because. the bathroom also has a number of electrical appliances such as a hair dryer, an electric shaver, a washing machine, an electric heated towel rail, a shower cubicle and other electrical equipment.
By the way, I already wrote an article on how to electrical network. If you are interested, you can read.
I must say right away that all the requirements for installing sockets in the bathroom and shower rooms are spelled out in the regulatory technical literature called PUE (Chapter 7.1) and GOST R 50571.11 of 1996.
What does it say?
Requirements for outlets in the bathroom
1. Wiring
The first requirement for installing sockets in the bathroom is the requirement for electrical wiring. You already know everything. So in the bathroom, this includes both saunas and shower rooms, should only be used. Although the PUE paragraph below says that it is allowed and, but without the use of metal hoses.
2. Dividing the bathroom into zones
The second requirement for installing sockets in the bathroom is the zones into which the bathroom is divided. I will briefly talk about them. There are 4 zones in total:
- zone 0
- zone 1
- zone 2
- zone 3
To make it easier to imagine how the zones are located, I suggest you look at the pictures below. The images show top and side views for different bathroom designs. The red numbers indicate the zone numbers.
Bath (without a stationary partition).
Bathtub with a fixed partition.
Shower with tray and fixed partition.
Shower without a tray (with a sprinkler) and a stationary partition.
I think everything is clear with the zones in the bathroom. And now let's figure out what zone can be located in, especially for sockets.
Electrical equipment located in a certain area must comply with the requirements of this area. The requirements differ in terms of the degree of protection of the IP enclosure, the supply voltage and the availability of residual current devices.
In zone 0, it is forbidden to place any electrical appliances, except for those used for use in the bath itself (mainly up to 12 volts). In any case, they must have a degree of protection of the housing IPX7 (X - protection against solid particles and bodies in the bathroom is not of particular interest to us, 7 - protection against water penetration during temporary immersion).
Only water heaters are allowed in zone 1. In addition, they must have a degree of protection of the housing IРХ5 (5 - protection against water jets from all sides under low pressure).
And in zone 2 it is already allowed to install water heaters, exhaust fans and class 2 lamps, which are switched on with a cord. All installed electrical equipment in zone 2 must have a degree of protection of the enclosure IPX4 (4 - protection against splashes and water pouring from all sides).
In zones 0, 1 and 2, it is forbidden to install junction boxes, sockets and various control devices (for example, thermostats for).
In zone 3, it is already possible to install sockets, switches, thermostats and other electrical equipment, but if any of the following conditions is met:
- the lines are fed through an isolating transformer
- the line is protected by an RCD or a differential circuit breaker with a setting of not more than 30 (mA)
At the same time, the degree of protection for sockets, switches and other equipment in the bathroom installed in zone 3 should be IPX1, but for reliability I still recommend IPX4 (X - protection against solid particles and bodies in the bathroom is not of particular interest to us, 1 - protection against drops of water falling vertically, 4 - protection against splashes and water pouring from all sides).
For example, IPX4 sockets are waterproof, their design consists of a protective cover. This is how the socket in the bathroom of my apartment looks like with an IP44 enclosure rating.
You can learn about the purpose of an RCD (residual current device) or difavtomat from the article about. If you do not have the opportunity to install an RCD in an apartment panel (for example, there is no space), then you can use portable RCDs. I talked about this in an article on how to do it right.
I think that everything is clear about the zones. The main thing is that the distance from the outlet to the edge of the bath, shower door or washbasin is at least 60 (cm).
Here is a photo confirming the above:
3. Potential equalization system (SES)
Another requirement for installing sockets in the bathroom or shower rooms is the presence of (SMS). Follow the link, there I described everything in detail and talked about the soup.
conclusions
Once again I repeat to you that it is possible and even necessary to install sockets in shower rooms and bathrooms, but subject to all the above requirements. These requirements are not so complex as to be neglected.
P.S. And at the end of the article, I want to ask: “Do you have sockets in the bathroom installed according to all the listed requirements?”
Installing outlets in the bathroom is not as simple as it may seem to ignorant people. There are many tolerances and restrictions here. All this will be discussed in the article.
The bathroom, according to the PUE classification, is a room with increased danger. This means that the safety requirements here must be stricter than for the rest of the rooms of the apartment.
Socket in the bathroom, is it possible or not?
Some mistakenly believe that sockets in the bathroom are strictly prohibited. Allegedly, a specialist came to them and forbade the installation of the outlet. It is possible that he was right. For example, in France, there is a notorious accident when a famous singer died in his bathroom due to non-compliance with electrical safety rules.
But this prohibition does not apply to all bathrooms and much depends on their size and arrangement of faucets, showers. Surely you store and use a whole bunch of electronic devices in the bathroom - a hairdryer, an electric razor, washing machines, etc. 
You will not pull the carrier every time to connect! It is better to have a normal socket installed according to the rules, observing safe distances, than an extension cord lying on the floor. Moreover, the regulations do not allow this. 
Due to the increased risk, a number of requirements are imposed on the installation of sockets in the bathroom. All installation must comply with GOST R 50571-7-701-2013 “Requirements for special installations or locations. Premises for bathrooms and shower rooms", which replaced GOST R 50571.11-96 - you can download.
Zones in the bathroom
The entire bathroom is divided into zones. There are four of them in total - from 0 to 3. True, in the latest edition of GOST, zone number 3 is not mentioned. Conventionally, it is assumed that the space beyond zone No. 2 belongs to it.
the inside of a bathtub, washbasin or shower
It is forbidden to install electrical appliances with a voltage of 220V in this zone. Only the installation of waterproof, with a maximum voltage of 12V is allowed. 
Here you can install electrical appliances with IPX5 protection. Mostly water heaters. In this case, it is mandatory to use a three-core cable with a protective earth conductor when connecting. Sockets are not allowed in this area. 
everything that is located from 60 cm or more from the first zone
Sockets are also prohibited. You can install heaters, hoods, lamps that are turned on not from the switch, but from the cord. 
Junction boxes are prohibited in zones up to and including the 2nd. Therefore, to the electrical device, you will only have to pull a solid cable from the shield or box in the corridor.
starts where zone 2 ends
Its width according to the old GOST is 2.4 m starting from the second zone. In the new edition, it is not regulated and the entire space beyond zone No. 2 is considered. 
An important note - the actions of the zones in the bathroom extend up to a height of 2.25 m from the finished floor.
If the bathroom, toilet, shower room does not have a third zone, then it is forbidden to install a socket inside. It is allowed to mount only on an external wall, and even then at a distance of 60 cm from the door. 
In Soviet times, the length of the cord for connecting domestic washing machines, according to technical conditions, was 2.8 m. Naturally, there were no problems with connecting the washing machine to the outlet on the outer corridor wall.
Today, due to widespread savings, there are obvious difficulties with this. And you have to basically connect only indoors.
Rules for installing an outlet in the bathroom
1 Outlets can only be placed in zone 3, but they must be waterproof class IPX4.
It is allowed to use at least IP44. The number 4 means that the outlet is not afraid of splashes of water pouring from any side. That is, it should have all sorts of rubber bands and a lid. Plus there are shutters on the contact holes for the plug. 
Of course, with the plug on and the lid open, most outlets will no longer provide the original level of protection. But you are unlikely to wash and bathe at the same time. 
However, there are models that, even with the plug inserted, are capable of full splash protection and maintain IP66 protection! For example Legrand Plexo.
Moreover, it cannot be mounted in metal pipes. It is also forbidden to fasten the cable with steel clips.
Directly under the bathroom, the installation of open wiring is also prohibited, even in the corrugation, since this is also considered an open laying.
3 The socket is connected with a 3-wire copper cable with a protective earth conductor.At the same time, do not try to use the ground conductor of another line group or from another cable.
The ground conductor must not be common to different groups.
But it is best to use a 10mA protective device. Of course, it will be much more sensitive and more expensive, and it is likely that you will have to place an order, since in free-selling stores, mainly from 30mA and above. And if you also have an old washing machine, then it is possible that the RCD will turn off.
The leakage current of a washing machine, even with a working heating element, can be 1.5 mA per 1 kW of power. And if this heating element is already damp, but still works, then a couple of tens of milliamps. 
A 30mA RCD will not work with such a leak, but when you wash your hands, you will feel it to the fullest. 
In addition, such a leakage current, although insignificantly, affects the corrosion of pipes at the exit points.
If you do not have an RCD in your electrical panel, and you intend to use a socket, in this case, use portable RCDs for sockets. 
The rules also talk about the possibility of connecting sockets through an isolating transformer. However, in real life conditions, no one will put such a “bandura” at least under 10 kg in weight in the bathroom. 
Namely, of this size, you will have to mount a transformer to power, for example, a hair dryer with a power of 1-2 kW. So installing an RCD is the easiest and most profitable option. 
And regardless of the presence or absence of outlets there. It means that all metal elements in the bathroom must be grounded (sewerage and plumbing from metal pipes, cast-iron bath, shower, etc.) 
That is why experienced electricians tell some owners that the installation of sockets in their bathroom is prohibited.
Due to the specifics of the room and the increased level of moisture, electrical wiring in the bathroom and toilet requires special attention. From the point of view of technological standards for the risk of electric shock, the bathroom is classified as a hazardous area. Based on these considerations, earlier in the bathroom one socket was installed at the door. But new technologies dictate their own rules and an outlet is needed not only for a hair dryer and a razor, but also for,. If it becomes necessary to replace the electrical wiring and install sockets, installation work can be done by hand. To prevent the new outlet from becoming a source of problems, use the training photos and videos.
Socket outlet in accordance with regulations
It is better to install sockets and change the wiring during the overhaul of the bathroom. This will make it hidden from view. Of course, GOST also allows open wiring, but its appearance will not be particularly aesthetic. Gosstandart classifies electrical appliances for the bathroom by zones:
Bathroom areas
- In the zero zone (sink, shower and bath), it is allowed to install equipment with a voltage of not more than 12 V.
- In the first zone, the installation of a boiler is allowed, but 220 V sockets are prohibited.
- The second zone is 60 cm from the first. It is allowed to install sockets of the 4th class of moisture protection.
- In the third zone, sockets can be installed provided they are connected to the RCD. Any electrical appliances can be installed.
What the rules say
Bathroom electrical fittings must be grounded and have a moisture protection rating of at least IP44. Sockets with this designation have a self-closing cover that protects the internal openings from moisture, steam and condensation. When choosing a place for sockets, consider the following points:
- the outlet for the washing machine should not be hidden behind the case; access to the outlet should be open. You can not connect the machine through an extension cord;
- in terms of safety and design, it is better to install an internal socket. In this case, all joints should be well insulated;
For installation in the bathroom, choose internal sockets
- cold walls, on which condensation often falls, are of little use for installing sockets;
- the socket is installed as far as possible from water sources: washbasin, bath. At a distance of at least 60 cm;
- if there are kids in the house, then the socket is set to a height that the child cannot reach;
- from the outlet to the floor, a distance of less than 25 cm is not allowed;
- wires should not have any twists and terminals, even hidden under the tile. Terminals can only have light sources. All switching should be located outside the bathroom;
- do not place electrical appliances under the bathtub or shower tray;
- high power equipment must have an RCD and a connection to ground.
Advice. It is strictly forbidden to use water pipes and metal fittings in the wall as a grounding element.
Installing an outlet on drywall
The method assumes that the place for mounting the future outlet is chosen at the design stage, and all the wires are stretched together with the arrangement of the plasterboard frame.
Advice. The standard depth of the rosette glass is 4.5 cm. If there is a much smaller gap between the drywall and the wall, then a recess is made in the wall with a crown on the concrete.
Installing a socket in a concrete wall from scratch
If the bathroom is in the midst of a major overhaul and the installation of new electrical outlets is required, then the installation sequence is as follows.
Installing an additional socket
An additional outlet is installed according to the same principle as the main ones, with only a slight difference. There are two methods for connecting the electrical cable:
- pull a new line of electrical cable from the switchboard. Install a separate circuit breaker. Or combine the machine with an RCD;
- install a transformer, and carry out grounding from the nearest electrical point.
Properly ground the socket
The remaining installation requirements are similar to installing an outlet from scratch. When installing an additional outlet, it is often necessary to make holes in the cladding. Use drills and crowns specially designed for this work.
If the wall is tiled, concrete and tile are selected with a crown with an allowance for the diameter and depth of the socket. The recess is filled with gypsum or alabaster mortar, the socket box is pressed in, equal in level and fixed with a pair of “fleas”. Alignment is conveniently carried out with a wooden or plywood template equal to the thickness of the cladding.
Advice. Before you drown the socket in the solution, do not forget to put a cable in it!
Safety
When installing sockets and working with electrical wiring, do not neglect your own safety:
- installation of electrical wiring and connection of sockets must be carried out in a de-energized apartment. First, auxiliary operations are performed for wall chasing, drilling holes, laying an unconnected cable;
Before working with electricity, turn off the power in the apartment
- before connecting, each wire is checked by an indicator, since voltage may arise unexpectedly for any reason;
- when installing the outlet, do not allow body contact with a bare wire.
Advice. Electrical work should be carried out with a partner. In the event of an electric shock, it is his quick reaction that can save a life.
If you follow the simple installation rules, installing an outlet in the bathroom yourself will not be very difficult. Most importantly, do not forget about safety and grounding. Treat electricity with respect.
Installing outlets in the bathroom: video
How to install sockets in the bathroom: photo
There are two diametrically opposed points of view on the possibility of installing an outlet in the bathroom. One of them is traditionally lazy: household premises with high humidity do not allow the connection of electrical products (the risk of electrical injury is high). Another point of view is distinguished by pragmatism and rationality. If the installation is justified, then it can be carried out, of course, in compliance with all necessary security measures.
The standard layout of most apartments provides for the installation of sockets outside. Although this option is safe, its operation creates inconvenience. When using electrical appliances, the power cord will lie on the threshold, and interfere with the closing of the bathroom door.
With the advent of moisture-proof electrical installation products (plugs, sockets, switches), you can use the achievements of civilization with great comfort. The socket block installed in the bathroom provides simultaneous connection of various household appliances and equipment:
- washing machine;
- electric shavers;
- Fena;
- Built-in lighting switches;
- hydromassage system;
- Electric water heater.
The closed door securely separates the rooms, there are no drafts. You can comfortably take water procedures in privacy. The sound of a hair dryer, a running washing machine or running water will not disturb the rest of the apartment's inhabitants.
Socket for washing machine in the bathroom
Socket block located behind the machines
Socket with protective cover
Socket above the washing machine in a niche
Washing machine with socket in wall recess
Moisture protection: what type of socket can be used
Marking from the Latin letters IP (abbreviation of the international standard) and two digits characterizing the ability to resist external intrusions is applied to the body of the product. The first number indicates the dust rating of the outlet and is often omitted. The second (from 0 to 8) characterizes the degree of protection against moisture.
Class 8 enclosures are designed for operation of the electrical unit when completely immersed in water to a depth of more than 1 m. The zero group is the least protected. For installation in the bathroom, it is recommended to use products of the classIP4 (splash and drip proof in all directions).
Sockets in the bathroom, it is desirable to install those that are equipped with a hinged spring-loaded cover. When not in use, it covers the interior, preventing the plug hole and ground contact from getting wet.
Socket with spring-loaded cover
Safety requirements allow the use of an installation block with a lower class. However, in this case, open mounting is not allowed. Installation of sockets must be carried out inside a protective casing with the required degree of tightness.
Choosing a zone for placing an outlet
Installing a washing machine and connecting it to the mains in a wet room has its own nuances. Even an inexperienced person understands that installing an outlet near a washbasin or shower is not the best solution. Sooner or later, tragedy strikes. Regulatory documentation regulates the division of the bathroom and toilet into several electrical safety zones:
- 0 - located inside or in close proximity to sources of splashes and water (sinks, bathtubs, showers);
- 1 - includes sections above and below the zero zone;
- 2 - located within 0.6 m from the boundaries of zone 1;
- 3 - applies to all sites at a distance of 2.4 m from the boundaries of zone 2.
Sizes of zones in the bathroom
The requirements of regulatory documentation allow the placement of sockets only in zone 3.
Selecting a location for installation
High humidity and temperature in the room create favorable conditions for the formation of condensation on the surface of the walls. This process will be most intensive on the wall adjacent to the staircase. Moreover, a pattern will be observed: the closer to the floor, the more condensate, and, accordingly, the damper the wall. Therefore, if possible, the height of the installation point on the internal partitions should be about 1.3 m.
The distance between the outlet and the gas pipeline is clearly regulated. The minimum value is 0.5 m. Ideally, the distance to conductive communications (water supply, heating) should be such as to exclude the possibility of simultaneously grasping the metal pipe and the socket block when turning on or off the appliance.
Another requirement that is desirable to comply with when choosing a place to install sockets: ease of use. How much free space should be is not standardized. The main thing is that when you connect the power cord of electrical appliances, you do not have to perform a series of acrobatic studies every time.
Installation of sockets in the room can be performed on an open section of the wall. Installed furniture and washing machines must not interfere with plugging or unplugging.
Block with switch and sockets on the bathroom wall
Socket in the bathroom at the doorway
Socket outlets with cover to protect against moisture in the bathroom
Block of two sockets on the bathroom wall
Electrical safety requirements (RCD and grounding)
A mandatory requirement is the use of RCDs (residual current device). They provide the operation of power switches in cases where there is a danger to humans:
- Leakage on the hull;
- Short circuit;
- Touching live parts.
The main parameter by which the RCD machine is selected is the value of the leakage current. It is measured in µA and its value is indicated on the instrument case. The maximum RCD threshold should be no more than 30 µA.
Washing machine power supply wiring diagram
You can use a 10µA switch. It provides an increased level of safety, but imposes more stringent requirements on the insulation resistance of live parts. Most often, more sensitive switches are used on newly laid lines to avoid too frequent false alarms.
The connection of RCDs to the supply line must be done outside the bathroom. Most often, the unit is installed in the input electrical panel of the apartment. A prerequisite for the effective functioning of the security system is the use of a cable with a separate ground conductor. Through it, potential equalization is carried out to a safe level. The connection can be made to the corresponding contacts in the input board. It is not allowed to perform grounding on metal pipelines or building fittings.
Which wire to choose: material and design
Wiring in the bathroom is carried out using a three-core electrical cable with double insulation. Each conductor has its own color marking, which facilitates switching:
- Blue (cyan) - "zero";
- Brown - "phase";
- Yellow-green - "earth".
The purpose of the wire cores is determined by color
How to connect wire cores
When buying, preference should be given to a copper cable. It has many advantages over aluminum:
- More flexible, it is more convenient to connect it to the contacts of sockets and switches;
- Less prone to oxidation at the points of contact;
- With the same cross section, it can withstand a greater load;
- Provides less contact resistance when connected to a socket and machines.
Copper cable is characterized by a different design of cores. They can consist of either one thick or a bundle of thin twisted wires. According to their electrical characteristics (resistance, load capacity, insulation class), both types are almost identical.
The only downside to stranded copper is the need to solder the mounting ends. This is to ensure a more reliable connection when plugged into an outlet. A cable with single-wire cores does not require such an operation, but it is more difficult to work with it, since it is more rigid.
Wiring and cable size selection
According to the requirements of regulatory documentation, wiring in the bathroom must be done in a closed way. To do this, a channel is cut in the wall, and a power cable is laid. Then a plaster leveling layer and a decorative finish with tiles or plastic panels are performed.
Less time-consuming open installation, which involves laying an electrical cable on the surface. In this case, the use of a protective corrugation or cable channels is mandatory.
With any installation scheme, the location of the wiring in zone 0 is unacceptable.
When wiring, pay attention to the cross section of the power cable. Its value depends on the power of simultaneously connected devices. The required figures are usually indicated in the technical data sheets or directly on the nameplate.
Cable selection depending on the load
To connect a washing machine, the cross-sectional area of the copper cable must be at least 2.5 mm 2. If at the same time it is planned to connect other powerful electrical appliances (water heater, underfloor heating) to the same line, then it is desirable to increase the cross section of the conductor by 1.5-2 times. This must be done to prevent overheating of the cable and melting of the insulation. The amount of the margin depends on how many and which devices will work simultaneously.
Work options
You should start installing the socket in the bathroom after the walls have been finished with tiles or decorative plastic panels in the room. To have an idea about the installation process, you can consider three possible options:
- Installing a surface outlet;
- Recessed installation;
- Using a protective cover (standard electrical panel).
The body of the socket usually indicates the maximum current load that it can withstand. The passport of the washing machine and its nameplate reflect similar data. If a contact block designed for a lower current is used, then the probability of its overheating and partial melting is very high. The outlet for the washing machine must withstand a load of 16 A.
Technical specifications are indicated on the packaging of the socket
Before starting installation, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work in the room. An electric power cable must be laid to the installation site in advance and a mounting section must be led out. The free end is stripped of insulation to the required length, and each core is covered with solder. Subsequently, the tinned areas will be fixed in the socket terminal block.
Sufficient length of wire should be used. By eliminating the installation of junction boxes or the use of connecting terminals for splicing, labor intensity of work will be significantly reduced. For all three installation options, the rules for wiring, connecting the RCD and choosing the installation location are the same. Differences will appear only when mounting installation products.
Surface-mounted waterproof socket
Most often, due to its simplicity, technology is used that provides for external installation. There is no need to use any additional devices. The socket block is disassembled and the position of the mounting holes is marked on the wall surface. The verticality of the markup must be controlled using the building level.
Surface-mounted waterproof socket
Holes in the wall are made with a drill. For this, a diamond-coated crown or a drill bit for tiles is used, and when sheathed with plastic panels for wood or metal. For the main material of the partitions (brick or concrete), a perforator drill is best suited.
The body is attached to the wall surface with dowel-nails. To prevent leakage of condensate, fasteners are treated with a small amount of sealant. Then, a contact block with a mounting end connected to it is installed in the landing ledges. Then it remains only to put back the housing cover and fix it with screws.
Hidden installation
In this option, the main difficulty lies in the preparation of the landing nest. It is necessary to drill or gouge a recess into which the socket block will be installed. A brick wall lends itself easily to a diamond-coated crown. Reinforced concrete panels are of great complexity, in addition it is necessary to use a perforator drill.
The socket box is installed in the resulting blind hole. For reliability, fixation is carried out with a solution of alabaster or a dowel of nails. The further installation process is quite simple and does not present any difficulties:
- The decorative upper part of the case is removed from the built-in socket;
- The mounting end of the cable is connected to the contacts;
- The socket is installed in its seat;
- By rotating the mounting screw, the contact block is fixed due to the wedging of the mounting tabs;
- The top cover of the case is installed and fixed with screws.
Installing a hidden outlet
Mounting inside the protective cover
Safety rules allow the operation of electrical installation products with a class of at least IP 4 in the bathroom. If necessary, this requirement can be circumvented. If the location of the sockets is carried out inside the body of the electrical panel and its moisture protection class corresponds to IP 4, then all conditions will be met.
Socket in the power cabinet
The use of such a construction is justified only in two cases:
- Can't find waterproof outlets;
- In addition to connecting the washing machine, an underfloor heating control unit or a built-in lighting switch is additionally installed inside the shield.
First, with the help of dowel-nails, the shield is mounted on the wall. Then the end of the cable is inserted inside and connected to the corresponding terminals of the terminal block. In the shield housing, the socket is installed using mounting brackets. The underfloor heating control unit, switch or some other device is installed in the same way, or using a standard mount.
Installing outlets in the bathroom is a rather complicated and responsible undertaking. It must be carried out in compliance with all safety rules and requirements. Therefore, before you start doing anything, you need to carefully weigh everything, think over and prepare.
Socket for a typewriter on the bathroom wall
Socket with cover on the bathroom wall