How to insulate a wooden house. Insulation of a wooden house: advice from professionals. Types of external insulation

Each person dreams of a warm house, so that even in the most severe frosts it would be comfortable to be indoors. Therefore, the first question that confronts the owners of their home is how to insulate the walls from the outside on their own. This is especially true for wooden buildings. In this article, we will give instructions according to which the walls of frame and timber houses are thermally insulated from the outside. And for a more visual example, you can watch the video.

There is a huge variety of thermal insulation materials. Let us dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are massively used by consumers.

Warming a wooden house will help keep the wood from destruction

Stone wool in slabs. Such material is easy to cut even with a conventional knife. Due to the light weight of the plates, it is easy to transport even in a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate a small area. During installation, stone wool is placed in the gap between the racks of the frame, and then insulated with vapor barrier material from the inside and waterproofing from the outside.

Attention! During transport or installation, never compress or tamp the mats.

Ecowool. This is an environmentally friendly material for insulation, based on cellulose fibers. Produced in a package, in a slightly compressed form. There are two ways to insulate this material:

dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and rammed into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time the fibers can shrink, and this will lead to heat loss. However, some manufacturers give a guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and clings to the building frame, so that the material does not settle.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Styrofoam. One of the most budgetary types of insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with foam, you need to show maximum accuracy, because it can crumble and break.

Attention! As a heater, you need to purchase non-pressed foam sheets.

polyurethane foam. It is sold in the form of two-component substances that begin to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, such material is similar to mounting foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic layer of insulation, which completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has water-repellent properties.

Insulation of a house from a bar with polyurethane foam

Natural heaters. These include slabs of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly, inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber is also a natural insulation. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, mount, it does not cause allergies and is moisture resistant.

What is the best way to insulate walls?

The key to a quality repair is a well-thought-out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or outside. Internal insulation is rarely used, because. because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses in this way, because. moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the side of the street. Because of this, mold and fungus may appear inside the structure, and the tree itself will begin to rot. In addition, it is necessary to buy material that, in its properties, will match the tree. Linen fiber, soft fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials are suitable for this.

House insulation with mineral wool

With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform layer of insulator is formed for the free release of vapors. The insulation is less dense than wood, because of this, steam escapes through the ventilation gap. The external method of thermal insulation is an ideal option for those who want to insulate old houses made of timber, which have lost their “presentation” over time, after sheathing they will look like new. However, if the walls are not properly insulated, the wood will begin to deteriorate, and under a layer of exterior finish, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of a frame house begins with waterproofing. To do this, you can use glassine - a cheap but effective material. It is cut into strips and fastened with a stapler to the frame of the house, with a step of no more than 12 cm. Sheets of glassine are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.

Advice! If the frame of the house will be sheathed with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.

Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool is an excellent option for wall insulation. It does not cause allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity, such plates are easily cut with a construction knife. The laying process is simple, first we measure the distances between the racks and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. We cut the sheets of the desired size and lay them on the waterproofing. We close the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.

Mineral wool

We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use foam phenol. It must be shot to the frame of the building using a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid in a horizontal direction, leaving 5 cm joints with the foil part outward. After that, we sheathe the walls of the house with edged boards or siding.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic

In order to fix the foam on the wall, first we install vertical canopies from the cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed on the wall. Thus, the entire insulation is laid. Next, you need to seal the gaps with mounting foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.

Attention! Styrofoam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.

Outside, the walls must be plastered, and before that, a reinforced mesh must be mounted. Putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After the surface has dried, a finishing layer can be applied with decorative plaster.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic

Insulation of the walls of the house from a bar

External insulation of houses made of timber should be made with slab materials, they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.

To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be smeared with an antiseptic to prevent decay. Then basalt wool is attached to it with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels-umbrellas, for 1 sq.m of insulation - 4-6 fasteners. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. We nail slats on top of the wooden frame, 5 cm thick, which will create a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the rails and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal laying with a level.

Scheme: home insulation

Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preferences. And to decide whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how the finishing of the external walls will be done. Well, if you want even the most severe frosts not to bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.

Warming the house with mineral wool: video

Wooden house - insulation

Warming the walls of a wooden house from the outside is an important task for many homeowners in our country. A wooden house is a traditional dwelling of an inhabitant of all-Russian expanses. Wood is a very good structural material with high energy saving and heat efficiency. A house made of logs with a diameter of about 30 cm can easily withstand Siberian frosts and fierce winds, but in addition to the heat-saving qualities of wood, the hut must be insulated. In ancient times, natural material was used for this, which is available and inexpensive. For this, moss, tow, straw were dried.

The method of insulation of joints in the hut

Insulation for the wooden outer walls of the house had a direct practical meaning, because the less heat is lost, the less it is necessary to heat the stove.

In addition to the walls, the floors and roof, windows and doors were insulated. Today, wooden houses are no less popular than in past years. There are a great many constructive ways of building. At the same time, various types of wood processing and methods of warming wooden houses are used.

Modern technologies make it possible to relatively inexpensively solve the problem of heat saving and significantly reduce the cost of maintenance and heating. A well-insulated wooden house requires less investment in current repairs and maintenance.

Techniques for insulating the walls of wooden houses

There are several methods for insulating walls from the outside. This is done both with their own hands and with the involvement of specialists practicing modern technologies for wooden houses. It is important not to make a mistake and choose the right thermal insulation for walls, materials for vapor and waterproofing, prepare the wall from the outside for mounting the frame under the insulation or fastening the heat insulator directly to the wall.

Any homeowner wonders how to properly insulate the walls from the outside. At the same time, we must not forget that it is necessary to apply external insulation, and not internally.

There are a number of good reasons for this:

internal insulation reduces the usable area of the house,
the dew point moves inside the wooden wall, which leads to the accumulation of moisture in the walls and rotting,
walls saturated with moisture freeze through, and only the interior of the house remains insulated,
using non-transparent thermal insulation (extruded polystyrene foam), a greenhouse effect is created inside the house

When considering wall insulation, it is understood that the roof or ceiling and floors are well insulated and insulated from moisture penetration. Incorrectly executed floor insulation nullifies even high-quality wall insulation from the outside.

Be sure to take into account when using such a heater as polystyrene foam or ordinary foam plastic, that mice often start up in it, violating heat and waterproofing with their burrows and passages. This can lead not only to heat loss, but also to rotting and destruction of structural elements.

Preparing the wall for the installation of insulation from the outside

Before thermal insulation, it is necessary to prepare the walls for the installation of insulation from the outside:

make an audit of the walls for the presence of holes, slots, holes, if found, caulk or foam with ordinary mounting foam, and then align,
antisepticize the wall surface with a special composition that prevents decay and slows down combustion,
check all electrical wiring passing through the outer walls, ensure access to it in such a way as not to violate the insulation,
align the walls, setting a plane with minimal deviations for the installation of insulation, with an ordinary ax or a planer or a peeling tool,
align and seal window and door slopes from the outside.

Given that the tree is vapor-transparent and has the ability to absorb and release moisture, it is better to use natural, environmentally friendly and non-combustible heaters for insulation: basalt or mineral slabs, glass wool. Insulation can also be in rolls.

Installation of natural insulation on the walls of a wooden house

Eco and stone wool are very good wall insulators. They allow the wood to breathe and maintain durability. The technology of installation of external insulation of the walls of timber and log houses is similar. First, a vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the prepared wall surface, it is advisable to use those types that allow moisture vapor to escape from the inside of the house, but do not allow cold air to penetrate from the outside and protect against condensation.

Then the plates are mounted. The installation method depends on the subsequent exterior decoration of the house. In most cases, to facilitate the installation of insulation, a crate is preliminarily made from a wooden beam or an aluminum profile. The guides are mounted on the wall strictly vertically, fastened with wood screws, crossbars are made between them. The parameters of the cells of the crate are slightly smaller than the insulation boards by 2-3 cm for tight installation.

To prevent slipping of the insulation plates, it is fixed with special plastic dowels with fungi. If the insulation is rolled, the crossbars are installed with a smaller step or not installed at all.

The dimensions of the crate depend on the thickness of the insulation and the number of layers. As a rule, they are a multiple of 5 cm. When there is more than one layer of insulation, it is advisable to make the crate double with an offset in order to avoid the penetration of cold through the cracks. It all depends on the temperature regime of the area where the insulated house is located, the thickness of the wooden walls and the heat-shielding properties of the insulation.

After installing the insulation in the crate, it is necessary to close it with a waterproofing membrane to protect it from external moisture and blowing.

The membrane is fastened with a stapler to a wooden crate, it is advisable to overlap at least 15 cm and avoid sagging and cracks.

Installation of waterproofing is carried out from the bottom up in such a way that the top layer overlaps the bottom one and prevents moisture from leaking.

Mineral wool or glass wool insulation loses its effectiveness when wet.

You can see how the insulation is mounted by watching the video :

An important point is the removal of moisture from waterproofing. Given that the vapors leaving the house through the vapor-transparent walls and insulation, colliding with cold air, condense and flow down the protective waterproofing, it is necessary to provide them with an unhindered exit to the outside below. To do this, gaps are left in the outer crate for moisture and air to escape. It is also necessary to leave gaps for air circulation or install ventilation grilles at the joints of the wall and the roof vault.

After the installation of the waterproofing, an external finish is made from lining, planed boards, panels or siding. All natural wood exterior materials must be antiseptic and covered with a protective layer of paint or varnish.

The use of foam and foam

In addition to mineral or stone wool, a wooden house is insulated from the outside with foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam.

Styrofoam is a fairly cheap and energy-efficient material, but it has many disadvantages: it is afraid of moisture, it is not vapor-transparent, combustible, and fragile.

Its use requires careful protection against moisture penetration, devices for additional ventilation in the house in order to avoid the greenhouse effect and excessive humidity. When attaching the foam to the wall of the house, glue and the same plastic fungi are used, as in the installation of mineral plates. The joints between the layers of foam must be foamed.

It is necessary to use foam plastic with a density of at least 15 kg / m3, and it is better to use special facade modifications from 25 kg / m3.

Extruded polystyrene foam or foam plastic is much more efficient than polystyrene, it is moisture resistant, has increased moisture resistance and provides good thermal protection, but is also combustible and not vapor-transparent.

Styrofoam and foam plastic are often used when choosing a “wet facade” as an exterior finish. The production method is as follows: a combined adhesive special composition with a reinforcing facade mesh is applied to the mounted and aligned insulation boards, which creates a strong protective surface over the insulation.

In the corners, before applying the adhesive composition, it is necessary to install paint corners. When applied, it is leveled and rubbed off like plaster. After drying, a decorative coating of various structures and colors is applied on top.

Depending on the taste of the owner of the house or the design solution, decorative elements are used: moldings, trim for window framing, cornices.

All of the above methods of insulation can be carried out by the owner of the house on their own. This does not require special knowledge, skills and tools, except for accuracy and compliance with a number of the mentioned features of each of the heaters. Careful adjustment of the insulation boards and the correct installation of protective membranes will ensure reliable insulation and comfort in the house in any weather. After all, a well-insulated house, even in great heat, keeps cool for a long time.

Comparison of characteristics of heat-insulating building materials

Another question that always arises before insulating the walls of the house is how thick and dense the insulation should be, how to choose the right one and not make a mistake. Of great importance is what profile the house is built from, its heat-shielding performance without insulation. If the house was built in Siberia with thin walls, then it is necessary to apply the most effective thermal protection against possible freezing. But it is better to focus on the properties of the insulation, its energy-efficient qualities.

An analogy for the thickness of a wall made of various building materials.

It is easier and clearer for most homeowners to proceed from the practical degree of heat sufficiency with a certain thickness of the walls of the house in each individual region of our country.

Wall insulation from the inside in wooden houses makes them more comfortable and economical. In addition, the good performance of the walls in terms of heat engineering allows you to save on heating. The issue should be approached seriously, since the result will completely depend on the chosen material and compliance with the technology.

Warming from the inside

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside avoids the need for exterior decoration. With this approach, it is possible to preserve the attractive appearance of a building made of timber or rounded logs. But the technology has a number of disadvantages that you should prepare for:

interiors are protected from the harmful effects of cold, but not walls;
the useful area of the building is reduced;
there are certain restrictions on the materials used.

Which heater to choose

What is the best way to insulate a house? It is worth starting from the material of the walls. The tree has gained well-deserved popularity due to the fact that it is able to "breathe". Wood is well breathable, while providing excellent ventilation in the premises.

To preserve the useful properties to the fullest, when working from the inside with your own hands, you need to use materials that are similar in breathability to wood. To insulate the house, it is better to abandon such heat insulators as:

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam (or more simply “Penoplex”);
penoizol.

They are highly airtight, so they can create a greenhouse effect in the building. This will require an expensive forced ventilation device or the installation of air conditioners.

The best material for thermal insulation will be mineral wool.

Its advantages include:

high efficiency;
the ability to pass air without interfering with natural ventilation;
safety for human health and the environment;
incombustibility;
ease of installation;
availability;
low cost.

But when using cotton wool, it is worth remembering its shortcomings. The material absorbs moisture well, while ceasing to perform its main function. To avoid getting wet, you should also purchase a vapor barrier and wind-waterproofing.

Scheme of layers for insulation with mineral wool

There are several varieties of mineral wool. The best option would be basalt (stone) insulation in slabs. You can also choose glass wool, which is available in the form of mats twisted into a roll. The second option can cause difficulties during installation. The material is highly prickly, and the particles, getting into the lungs or on the skin, cause itching. To avoid unpleasant consequences, all work with glass wool is carried out in special clothing and masks.

The most undesirable, but inexpensive option would be slag wool. But, insulating your home, it is better not to save. Cotton wool is made from industrial waste. Manufacturers are responsible for safety, but it is not always possible to check from which slags the insulation is made. You can easily come across low-quality material or a fake, with which the insulation of a wooden house from the inside will be dangerous to health and life.

Preparatory stage

Before insulating a wooden house from the inside, you will need to prepare the walls. This is especially true if it is necessary to insulate an old wooden house. In this case, the material that was used for the caulking has managed to clot. The main task at this stage will be the elimination of cracks - sources of drafts, cold and moisture.

Work begins with cleaning the base. You will need to remove the dust and dirt that has accumulated on the walls. Before insulating an old house, it is worth checking the strength of the wood. It should not be damaged by various pests. Otherwise, it is better to strengthen the walls.

To prevent problems with insects and microorganisms in the future, the surface is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can also perform the treatment with fire retardants, they increase the resistance of the material to fire.

Treatment with antiseptics will protect the wood from decay

Wood shrinks over time. Because of this, cracks may appear in the walls. Before starting work on insulation, it is worth doing. Currently, jute is most often used for these purposes. For large gaps, it would be wise to purchase tape tow. The material is hammered between logs or timber using a chisel.

Caulking will protect the walls from blowing and become an additional heat insulator

It is necessary to perform work until the material ceases to fit into the space and begins to hang out. High-quality caulking is the key to a warm home.

Wind waterproofing of walls

Mineral wool is afraid of moisture. Before you insulate the walls in a wooden house, you should take care of protecting the insulation. On the outside of the mineral wool, a layer of wind-waterproofing is fixed. It prevents weathering and penetration of atmospheric moisture. There are several types of suitable materials, but the best option is a vapor diffusion membrane.

This modern material reliably protects against water, but does not interfere with the movement of air and steam. This allows you to maintain the ability of the walls to breathe, as well as ensure the removal of moisture from the insulation.

Waterproofing is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. The joints of the canvases are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and glued with adhesive tape or a special tape.

Insulation installation

Internal wall insulation is carried out according to the frame. It can be made of wood from a metal profile. The easiest way to insulate a building made of wood is to use wood for the frame. It is important to correctly select the geometric dimensions of the frame:

The pitch of the racks is selected taking into account the width of the insulation. It should be about 2 cm less than the width of the mats or slabs. This is necessary for a tight fit of the material. For mineral wool, such a step of racks is most often used so that a distance of 58 cm remains between them in the light.
The frame overhang must take into account the thickness of the insulation and the required ventilation gap. It is needed to remove condensate from the surface and allows you to keep the material dry. The thickness of the ventilation gap is usually taken equal to 3-5 cm.

The installation of plates in the walls should be carried out with an interference fit - then it will not begin to slide over time

Mineral wool is laid between the racks of the crate. With the right choice of the step of the latter, the heat insulator will be held due to friction. For additional fixing, you can use special plastic dowels, they are usually sold together with insulation.

vapor barrier

How to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? It is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to protect it from all types of moisture. Indoor spaces are characterized by sufficiently high humidity, water in the form of steam can easily reach the mineral wool and reduce its effectiveness.

Vapor barrier - a mandatory layer when using mineral wool

Internal wall insulation implies a mandatory presence. It is mounted on top of the heater. A good option for protection is vapor barrier membranes.

They are more expensive than films, but they do not interfere with the movement of air through the walls. Membranes will become a more modern and efficient option.
Insulation of a wooden wall from the inside with their help is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. Mounting method may vary for different types.

Finishing

The insulation of the walls of a wooden house is completed with a fine finish. For these purposes, you can use a variety of options. But when choosing a material, it is worth remembering about ventilation. The finishing layer should not impede the movement of air, otherwise the entire previous choice of materials is useless.

Lining for interior lining - a simple, inexpensive and environmentally friendly option

Insulation thickness

Wall insulation in wooden houses from the inside should begin with the calculation of the thickness of the heat insulator. Only a professional can perform detailed calculations. With independent construction, you can use special programs. For example, the Teremok program. It is quite simple and is freely available. There is both an online version and a PC app.

On average, mineral wool 80-100 mm thick is used for walls. But it all depends on the climatic region.
Before insulating your own wooden house from the inside, you should carefully study the information on the topic.

And do not forget that from the point of view of heat engineering, it is more correct.

Competent performance of work is the key to durability and comfort.

Building science recommends doing external insulation of buildings, since in this case the dew point is outside the room in the insulation or in the outer layer of the walls. With such insulation in rooms, moisture will not condense on the walls.

However, there are cases when insulation of a wooden house from the inside- is the only correct solution. For example, if the owner of the house wants to preserve the beautiful appearance characteristic of houses made of logs or laws prescribe to preserve the historical appearance of the building.

Modern building science allows you to make internal insulation of wooden houses, but for this you need to use the right materials and follow the technology.

Preparatory work

All work on the construction and arrangement of residential buildings must be preceded by engineering calculations. This also applies to the internal insulation of a wooden house.

The thermotechnical calculation should show how effective the insulation will be and, in general, is there a possibility of internal insulation? The insulation will always fulfill its function, but the position of the dew point is of decisive importance.

The dew point should never be on interior walls. and even more so in the insulation and calculations should show this. If the dew point is inside, then the room will be warm, but in the cold season it will be constantly damp. And from dampness, porous heaters get wet, the walls of houses rot, mold and various unwanted living creatures are massively bred.

Only if the dew point is not inside the room even in the coldest period, you can confidently produce internal insulation. True, for this you will have to sacrifice part of the internal volume of the house, but without this - nothing!

Materials used for internal insulation

Materials that are used in the internal insulation of the house, must meet certain requirements:

Firstly, they must have low thermal conductivity in order to fulfill their main function - insulation.
Secondly, these materials must meet the fire safety requirements for the premises.
Thirdly, the material alone or in combination with the mounting structure must provide the required mechanical strength.
And, finally, all materials used indoors must be environmentally friendly and not release any chemicals into the surrounding air that adversely affect the health of living beings.

Warming methods

Ways to insulate a wooden house directly depend on the materials used for this. In modern construction, several types of them are used:

Mineral basalt wool slabs- are most commonly used. This material does not burn, environmentally friendly, its use provides excellent heat and sound insulation. Low mechanical strength requires the construction of a building envelope, and high hygroscopicity obliges to cover mineral wool with special vapor barrier films.
Expanded polystyrene plates (polystyrene), have also found application in internal insulation. Their use is not recommended, as they can release substances containing styrene into the air. When burning, pressless expanded polystyrene releases deadly substances: hydrogen cyanide and toluene diisocyanate. Therefore, only extruded polystyrene foam, flammability class - G1, can be used. Insulation with expanded polystyrene also requires a building envelope.
glass wool- a widely used material for insulation. It has a lower price than basalt wool, however, it also has a higher thermal conductivity. To insulate the interior with glass wool, only material specially designed for this purpose should be used, which should additionally be covered with films. Small particles of glass wool are very harmful to health, so the installation is carried out only in the means of protecting the skin and respiratory organs. Requires building envelopes.
Isoplat- modern insulation, which consists of a layer of pressed linen fiber and fiberboard with a thickness of 12 to 25 mm. High mechanical strength makes it possible not to make powerful enclosing structures, and the environmental friendliness of this material allows it to be used indoors. The thermal conductivity of Isoplat is worse, and the price is much higher than that of other heaters.
Insulation with polyurethane foam sprayed on the surface - a modern excellent method that requires special equipment. Enclosing structures for such insulation are needed.

In this video you can see how a wooden house is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside

Sealing joints

A wooden house, even an impeccably built one, settles down for quite a long time. In addition to precipitation, when the heating is turned on in the house, there is an intensive drying of the wood, which affects the geometric dimensions of the log or glued beam. Initially, even well-laid logs or beams can form enlarged gaps at their joints, through which heat will be ruthlessly carried out into the atmosphere.

Therefore, the first operation for warming a house is sealing joints.

Fire bioprotection of wood

The inner part of the walls during insulation will be hidden by a layer of insulation, and for quite a long time. That is why the tree must be treated with a good fire-retardant composition, which for a long time eliminate the development of living creatures and make it difficult to ignite. It’s not worth saving on this, you need to choose only good compositions that are guaranteed to provide the necessary protection.

When processing walls with fire-retardant compounds, it should be taken into account that all enclosing structures, if they are wooden, must also be processed, since they will also be hidden in the insulation structure.

Thermal insulation and ventilation

Why didn’t they think much about the ventilation of houses before? Yes, because ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through leaks in wall and window structures.

Modern building materials and technologies exclude any leaks and gaps through which air can pass, but this does not mean that air should not circulate in the room. In modern houses, a ventilation system is designed, which should supply fresh air to the room and remove the exhaust.

Good internal thermal insulation must always be accompanied by ventilation. Only then will the microclimate in the room be normal. But ventilation is also required by the thermal insulation itself, which has a soft and porous structure, for example, mineral wool. Therefore, in the gap between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, there must be an air gap, through which air must circulate freely, removing excess moisture, comparing the air humidity in the entire room.

Such intervals are realized in practice very easily. A wooden lath about 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls with a certain gap, and a vapor barrier membrane is already attached to it. It turns out that there is an air gap between the wall and the insulation, which prevents the increased humidity of the internal walls and insulation.

If the walls of the house are built from a cylindrical log, then the ventilation gaps are obtained naturally, and if from glued beams, then the ventilation gap is highly desirable.

vapor barrier

If used as a heater basalt wool, glass wool, pressless polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier must be done. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ventilation crate using a construction stapler. The film must be sufficiently stretched so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the wall. the joining of two panels of vapor barrier is done with an overlap of at least 10 cm using adhesive tape and a stapler.

If the interior of the house will be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier is not needed. This material already has the necessary waterproofing qualities and will be a reliable barrier to moisture.

Installation of the enclosing structure

With all methods of insulating the internal walls of a wooden house, except for Isoplat plates, the construction of a building envelope is required. Most often, it is made from a wooden square bar with a cross section of 50 mm. The installation step of the bar is determined by the width of the insulation. If mineral wool insulation is used, then the distance between adjacent bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation - for a snug fit. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the distance must be exactly the width of the insulation boards.

Before installation it is necessary to process all the bars with a fire-retardant composition. Installation is carried out using screws of the required length directly to the wooden walls. If a crate was used for the ventilation gap, then the bars are attached to previously mounted rails. In this case, it is better to wrap the screws in holes previously drilled with a thin drill. This will prevent possible cracking of the wood.

Sometimes plasterboard profiles are used as a building envelope, which are attached to the walls on direct suspensions. This should only be done when drywall will be used as a finish, and in all other cases it is better to use a block of wood. The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of metal.

When insulating the ceiling, the enclosing structure is made similarly to the wall. When insulating the floor, the wooden logs themselves, on which the floor covering will be attached, act as a building envelope.

Insulation installation

Insulation is placed in the space between the enclosing bars. If a sheet insulation, then installation on the walls is carried out from the bottom up, and rolled, on the contrary, from top to bottom.

Mineral wool slabs are laid at random, which makes it possible for them to hold securely. However, it is still necessary to additionally strengthen the foam or mineral wool with special dowels with a wide head, one dowel per slab.

Roll insulation fixed on top with one dowel, rolled down and fixed with dowels at 1 meter intervals. First, whole slabs or rolls are laid, and the remaining space where trimming is required is filled with insulation last.

Ceiling insulation, in the case of a sloping roof, rolls up from the bottom up and can be fastened with dowels or with a cord. To do this, small carnations are stuffed onto adjacent bars with an interval of 15 cm, and then, after laying the insulation between the beams, a cord is pulled in a zigzag manner, which will securely hold the mineral wool.

If extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation, then all possible gaps at the joints can be filled with mounting foam. Before applying the foam, the surfaces are moistened, and after it dries, all excess is cut with a knife.

Final waterproofing

After installing the insulation, if the thermal insulation was made with porous materials that can absorb water, then it is necessary to cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing, but with a special one - vapor permeable membrane, which is, on the one hand, a reliable barrier to water, and on the other hand, the membrane freely releases water vapor from the insulation. Even if water has condensed in the insulation, it will come out in the form of steam until the humidity of the insulation is equal to the humidity in the room.

The breathable film has two sides: one is smooth and the other is rough, through which water vapor escapes. The rough side of such a film is laid to the insulation and fastened with a stapler to the building envelope. Joints with an overlap of 10 cm are glued with adhesive tape and fixed with a stapler. For waterproof insulation, a vapor-permeable membrane is not needed.

The final stage of warming there will be installation of the finishing coating, which can be wooden lining, drywall, plywood, OSB boards and others.

conclusions

Wall insulation inside a wooden house is extremely rare and very often a necessary measure.
Before installing the internal thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out thermal calculations showing the position of the dew point in the cold period. Tochna dew should not be on the inner walls and in the insulation.
As a heater, you should choose only environmentally friendly from well-known manufacturers.
Porous insulation must be covered with waterproofing films from the side of the wall and a vapor-permeable membrane from the side of the room.

It would seem that the question is quite simple - and the methods have long been worked out, and the choice of thermal insulation products is significant. But this is not about any building, but about a wooden house. Regarding its insulation, there are a number of nuances that cannot be neglected.

It's all about some features of such a building material as wood. First of all, it is its susceptibility to decay, the ability to "breathe" and retain heat well. The last two properties allow you to maintain comfortable conditions in the premises, as a rule, without significant additional costs. For example, for the purchase (and professional installation) of climatic equipment, due to the increased consumption of en / resources (including fuel for the boiler). At least, the indicated devices are not used as intensively in wooden houses as in brick or cellular concrete buildings. So, let's consider in detail how and what is the best way to insulate a wooden house.

To make the technology of work clearer, it should be explained why insulation from the outside for a wooden house is the only right solution. This method of reducing heat loss is the main one for any buildings, as it has a number of advantages. For example, does not reduce the usable area. This is one of the disadvantages of arranging this protective layer from the inside. But for a log house, something else is more relevant.

It's all about the so-called "dew point". The external installation of the insulation takes it outside the perimeter of the house, and condensate forms in the ventilated space. Consequently, in cold weather, the tree does not freeze, and in warm weather, the process of decay does not begin. If the insulation is laid on the walls of the premises, then the “point” shifts inward. As a result, the logs (beams) remain unprotected, and the condensate settles in the thermal insulation material, which initiates the development of mold and fungus not only in it, but also in the rooms.

How to insulate a wooden house

If you delve into the details, then the choice of materials is not so big.

Styrofoam boards

They differ not only in the correct geometry, but also in "rigidity". Therefore, to fix them, it is necessary to carefully align the base. It is still acceptable for a beam, especially if the walls were erected by professionals. And what about logs? In addition, foam plastics do not let in not only moisture, but also air. Therefore, the main attraction of a wooden house - climate control - will be completely leveled.

Spray formulations

Usually polyurethane. There are even more disadvantages, besides, special equipment will be needed. But the companies providing this service (for PU insulation) are silent about another rather significant disadvantage - the low maintainability of the layer. After all, it sticks to the surface on which it is applied. If, in the literal sense, it can still be “picked out” from a brick or concrete goods, then what about the tree? After all, it is quite malleable to mechanical stress, and damage to logs or timber in this case cannot be avoided.

There are other types of insulation for wooden buildings, which are advised to use the authors of some articles. But all the listed materials (chipboard, flax fiber, etc.), taking into account the specifics of the log house and in terms of durability, hardly deserve attention.

To insulate buildings made of wood, only mineral wool should be used. Excellent vapor permeability, elasticity, low weight - in fact, such thermal insulation fully complies with all the main criteria for a wooden house.

Warming the house from the outside - how to do it

Surface cleaning

This is where any repair or finishing work begins. For a wooden house, the initial inspection is especially important. It is necessary to identify all foci of damage to wood, determine their nature, methods and means to eliminate defects. This is a separate topic, and.

Processing with special / preparations

For a wooden house, both are equally relevant - flame retardants and antiseptics. Features of their use and formulation are indicated on the packaging. It is clear that it is desirable to do this in positive weather and clear skies.

All types of wood differ in porosity. Although more often they talk about the hardness or density of lumber. Based on this, the appropriate compositions should be selected. Their list is quite large, and the specifics of the application can vary greatly. The best ones are those that penetrate deep enough into the structure of the material and do not "close" the pores. Otherwise, the tree will not be able to "breathe".

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

Its main purpose is to ensure the ability of wood to self-regulate the microclimate and at the same time protect the material from direct contact with moisture. There are many varieties of films and membranes on sale. If the first option is chosen, then it must be taken into account that all samples differ in their execution, and therefore, in the specifics of use. The film is cheaper, but the usual modification of polyethylene cannot be used for vapor barrier. It is hermetic, and together with water does not let air through. It is worth considering when choosing products.

Mounting on the outside of a wooden house is quite simple - using a construction stapler (staples). It is only necessary to take into account that the strips must be mounted with a slight "overlap", and the joints must be closed with adhesive tape (adhesive tape).

The construction of the supporting frame

It is also called a crate. What is its peculiarity in relation to a wooden house? The coefficients of thermal expansion of the materials to be bonded should be taken into account. Metal slats are much more convenient for installation, but since the house is made of wood, it is not advisable to use them. Only wooden bars of the appropriate length and section.

The dimensions of the seats (cells of the crate), as well as its design, are selected based on the geometry and design of the insulation. Mineral wool is sold in slabs or rolls, so it is not difficult to draw up a sample laying pattern.

Another nuance concerns fasteners. Self-tapping screws or screws should not be used for fixing elements of the crate. They "tightly" grab the supporting structure, and this should not be. A wooden house “plays” somewhat under the influence of external factors (a feature of the material), therefore, fastening the crate to it is only with nails.

What to consider

The reliable position of the insulation is ensured by the fact that during the laying in place, the samples are slightly compressed. Then, due to their elasticity, they straighten out somewhat, which determines their reliable "hitch" with the slats of the supporting frame. When calculating its parameters, it is necessary to choose the cell sizes so that they are slightly smaller than thermal insulation products. Then you do not need any of their additional fastening on the outside of the house.

Laying insulation material

There is nothing complicated about this, especially if the scheme is drawn up correctly. Mineral wool is well cut with an ordinary knife, they bend, so there will be no problems.

Peculiarities:

On problem areas of the walls (complex configuration, slope, etc.), it is worth additionally fixing the thermal insulation with special nails - anchors.
The gaps at the junction of the insulation to the frame rails are sealed with the same construction tape.
Installation of thermal insulation is carried out in the direction from the bottom up, in rows.
In regions with frosty winters, insulation (depending on the thickness of the samples) can also be laid in 2 layers. In this case, the plates for the second are cut so that after installation their joints in the rows do not match. That is, a mount with a slight offset.

Calculator for calculating the amount of insulation

What we insulate	Density kg/m3	Insulation area, m2:	Insulation thickness, cm:	Weight kg:	Number of bags (15kg):
Horizontal structures (floor, ceiling)
Inclined structures (attic)

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