Instructions for installing a soft roof - a detailed technology for high-quality installation of the coating. Laying ridge tiles: technology and features How to make a ridge on a soft roof
The first thing people pay attention to when looking at a house is the roof, so they are very picky about the choice of topcoat. Soft photo is distinguished by its beautiful appearance, variety of colors, patterns, low cost, due to which the installation of a roof made of soft tiles is very popular.
In addition to aesthetic advantages, a soft roof has technical advantages:
- service life - 50 years;
- excellent sound absorption;
- reliable thermal protection;
- tightness;
- small weight (average 7 - 8 kg / m2);
- non-waste (elements of the ridge and valley can be made of the same material);
- comparative ease of installation of shingles.
Soft tiles look good An important plus is also that the installation of soft tiles is quite easy to perform on the roof of any configuration (with a large number of valleys, attic, chimneys, multi-level, with original asymmetry).
In this review, we will describe how to make a soft tile with your own hands, getting a beautiful durable coating.
So, let's begin.
Getting started, it is desirable to understand what the material with which you have to deal consists of.
The composition of the soft roof
Layered composition of soft tiles The structure of soft tiles is multi-layered.
The basis is a film (lining), which prevents the sheets from sticking together during storage and transportation.
A self-adhesive composition is applied to the part adjacent to the base.
In the middle - elastic layers of polymer-bitumen mass. The base layer provides tensile strength and is made from polyester, fiberglass, or a similar material.
The outer part of the tile is made of stone chips with expanded clay granules.
This structure allows the production of tiles of various shapes.
- It is desirable that the material was from the same batch.
- The tiles of different batches must be mixed during installation so that there are no differences in the color scheme.
- For large areas of slopes, foil tiles, or shingles with a large pattern, look very nice.
Now, having chosen the appropriate material, we move on.
Tiled roof installation 
The main nodes of the roof structure are:
- continuous
- underlayment for shingles
- protective elements of overhangs, ends, valleys, ridges
- roof space ventilation
- soft tiles.
The structure determines the order of assembly.
Stages of work:
- preparation of tools, components, consumables;
- device ;
- flooring of lining carpets;
- fastening of protective cornice and end profiles;
- marking the roof area;
- device ;
- installation of soft tiles (shingles);
- closing of skates, valleys.
The roof will turn out to be beautiful and durable if, when installing soft tiles with your own hands, the technological requirements are strictly observed. Therefore, we will describe in detail all the stages.
Required Tools
For work you will need:
- construction knife for cutting and trimming shingles;
- metal scissors;
- tape measure, hammer, level;
- hacksaw, circular saw;
- mounting gun for sealing joints and seams;
- spatula for applying bituminous mastic;
- pitched stairs;
- pencil or construction crayons for marking.
Accessories, consumables
- crate (OSB board or planed edged board);
- bituminous mastic (or glue);
- lining carpet;
- cornice strips (drip);
- wind (end) strips;
- valley carpet or metal valley (if this element is present in the roof configuration);
- junction bar (if necessary);
- sealant, mounting gun;
- outlet elements of ventilation (aerators, valves, fungi and the like);
- roofing nails, self-tapping screws, nails for lathing;
- pitched tiles, eaves, ridge elements.
Lathing device
Lathing for soft tiles Roof lathing made of soft tiles is continuous.
For its device, a moisture-resistant oriented strand board or a dry edged board calibrated in thickness is usually used.
If you use a regular edged board, you will have to perform additional work on grinding and leveling the surface.
When laying OSB boards, the joints are spaced, the gap between the boards is about 2 mm.
The use of dry planed sawn timber has the disadvantage that the wood "breathes" during operation, so the gap between the rows should be 2 - 5 mm.
The thickness of the crate depends on the pitch of the rafters.
For a standard step of 0.6 m, the thickness of the plate should be 9 - 12 mm, a dry edged planed board is used with a thickness of 20 - 22 mm.
If the pitch of the rafters is 0.9 meters - the thickness of the plate should be 18 mm, dry planed edged board - 25 mm.
Underlayment carpet flooring
Carpet backing A carpet backing is mounted along the plane of the crate, which prevents slipping, deformation of soft tiles during operation, especially when snow melts and melts.
With a small slope (up to 18 degrees) of the roof, it is possible to install a carpet only along the eaves, ends, ridge and valleys.
For a steeper slope, the carpet is laid over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe roof.
The lining carpet is produced in rolls, usually 12, 15 meters long.
- The bottom of the valley, if any, is closed first.
- Next, lay the substrate parallel to the overhangs.
- The carpet is glued to the flooring with special bituminous mastic or glue. The joints are glued especially carefully.
Recently, self-adhesive lining material has been more often used. If you purchase it, there will be no styling problems.
On the overhangs, it is good to release the carpet by 2 cm, tucking it under the eaves bar.
Important: be sure to ensure that when installing the substrate, there are no bubbles or wrinkles on the material.
Fastening of eaves and end profiles
Curtain plank The cornice strip (dropper) is a corner element with a stiffening rib. She closes the overhangs of the slopes.
The profile is fastened along the carpet along the overhang with an overlap of 50 mm, the edges are cut at an angle. The plank is nailed with a distance of 10 cm. Two nails are additionally nailed at the junction.
The installation procedure for the wind (end) plank is the same - the joints are cut, the nails are nailed along the length with a distance of 10 cm, at the joints - reinforced fasteners.
At this stage, it is possible to perform filing of cornices and roof overhangs (although it can be done after the installation of soft tiles). The filing is made with a planed frontal board, 20-25 mm thick or with plastic spotlights.
When making overhangs with a frontal board, a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the rows.
If spotlights from are used for sheathing, they have the necessary gaps for ventilation.
Roof area layout
Without professional skills, do-it-yourself installation of soft tiles is easier to do if you make markings on the lining carpet with chalk.
After measuring the slope, draw control horizontal lines at a distance of 40 cm, vertical marking is done in meter steps.
Tile marking Ventilation device
Ridge ventilation device Any roof must be reliable in the under-roof space to prevent the formation of ice on overhangs, icicles, fungus on wooden structures, and condensate. In general, all the negative phenomena that significantly reduce the life of the roof.
Ridge ventilation is considered the most optimal. For its device in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge, we will put aerators or ventilation valves, and we will perform the filing of cornices and overhangs with gaps. Providing under-roof ventilation is an important and voluminous topic, so we will not dwell on it in detail in this review.
Well, the preparatory work has been completed, you can start directly installing soft bituminous tiles on the prepared base.
Note: although the solid surface of the battens simplifies the work, the installation requires the use of a pitched ladder. You can buy it or make your own.
roof ladder It is made from a bar 50 * 50 mm and a board 25 * 100 mm. It is better to use dry material so that it is easy enough to move around the roof.
The finished ladder is, of course, more convenient, as it is made of aluminum tubes and is lightweight. However, the angle of the ridge is not taken into account in the purchased ladder, and with large slopes, the length may not be enough.
Installation of soft tiles
An instruction with a brief description of the sequence of work, developed by the manufacturer, is available in each package with the material.
Important: prior to installation, the packaging should be stored at positive temperatures (preferably from +10).
When soft tiles are laid, the installation technology provides for a temperature regime of +5 degrees. If it is necessary to carry out work at low temperatures, use a building hair dryer.
First of all, the cornice details of the roof are laid out. The lower part is laid along the drip at a distance of 2 centimeters from the roof slope, covering the profile, and carefully glued. The upper side of the cornice elements is nailed with roofing nails with a wide head (10mm) and a sealant.
Nails are not recessed, but are stuffed on the same level with the coating.
If you did not purchase cornice elements separately, you can start laying soft tiles with ordinary shingles, cutting off the petals, with a straight edge to the cornice.
Be sure to remove the protective film from the inside of the sheets.
After making the first row, close the valley (if any).
To finish the valley, a decorative carpet 70 centimeters wide or a metal valley profile is used.
The valley carpet is glued with bituminous mastic or glue and nailed along the perimeter in increments of 20-25 cm. The metal profile is simply nailed.
Important: the nails on the valley carpet go strictly along the perimeter, they should not be in the center along the axis of the valley!
The main shingles can be laid in two ways: vertical and horizontal.
- When laying tiles vertically, installation starts from the end of the roof.
The pattern looks most beautiful with horizontal installation, when, after the cornice row, the laying is carried out from the bottom up, starting from the middle to the ends.
At the ends, excessively protruding above the wind bar, the tiles are cut and glued with bituminous mastic to a depth of 10-15 cm.
Valley at soft tiles In the valley, the shingles are also cut off, leaving an open part (about 10 cm) of a decorative carpet or metal profile. The edges of soft tiles are carefully glued. It is convenient to cut shingles with a knife, placing pieces of OSB or plywood.
When laying, the elements of the soft roof are glued, pulling tightly. The upper part in the place where the drawing ends is pierced with 5-6 nails with a hat.
The next row of tiles covers the nails of the previous row.
Remember to constantly look at the markings, referring to the lines, to be sure that the roof goes smoothly without distortion.
Ventilation is a process consisting of exhaust and air supply. Ridge ventilation ensures that cold air enters from below through the gaps left in the area of the cornice overhang and exits from above through a ventilated ridge.
Air moves throughout the under-roof space, due to which a favorable microclimate is created there.
A ventilated ridge for a soft roof is a “second backup roof” raised above the main one with a gap for air to escape. This is a hole at least 5 cm wide at the top of the ridge along its entire length, over which a cover is installed. Its second name is a ridge aerator.
Functional purpose
- it provides air exchange in the under-roof space;
- prevents the formation of condensate;
- removes moisture vapor;
- excludes air stagnation.
Ventilation must be balanced: together with the ventilated ridge device, an air intake is provided in the cornice area.
Proper operation of ventilation:
- in winter, it completely eliminates the formation of ice on cornices and overhangs, removing excess heat that penetrates from the house into the under-roof space;
- in summer it removes hot air, preventing excessive heating of the attic.
When installing a soft roof, a ventilated ridge can be installed in two ways - buying and installing a ready-made aerator or making it yourself.
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Ridge aerator for soft roofing
Manufacturers of roof ventilation systems and materials offer convenient and practical aerators, which provide everything necessary for their installation and operation.
- Aerators are made of durable plastic, the service life of which is up to half a century.
- Able to withstand temperature fluctuations from -50 to +60 ° C and gusts of hurricane wind.
- They can be mounted on the roof of any design; roofing nails are used for fastening.
- They are produced in strips that have a convenient coupling system between themselves.
- They are protected from insects, small birds, debris.
From above, the aerators are covered with a soft roof according to the general rules and become almost invisible.
Self-manufacturing
Along the entire length of the ridge, retreating 150 mm from each edge of the roof, a slot is made in the solid base under the soft tiles. Its optimal width is 30 - 50 mm.
- From the slot along the slopes, the surface is freed from the soft roof at a distance of 10-15 cm on each side.
- A galvanized metal mesh with a mesh size of 2 * 2 mm is stretched along the length of the hole. The width of the strip is 250 mm, it is nailed.
- The bars of the counter-lattice 50 * 50 mm are stuffed along the slope parallel to each other, perpendicular to the slot. From below, they press the shingles of soft tiles, from above they are located above the metal mesh.
- A continuous crate of OSB boards (width 460 - 500 mm) is installed on the bars. The whole structure adds volume to the skate.
- The bottom of the crate is covered with PVC mesh to protect the hole from insects, small birds and foliage.
- Lay on the crate, and then the shingles of the soft roof.
- The last ridge tile tile is laid, with an overlap of 10 cm, starting from the end. Details are nailed, sealed with mastic.
The ventilation system must comply with building codes - this is required by all manufacturers of roofing materials. Otherwise, air stagnation and moisture accumulation will destroy building materials.
Features of installation of flexible tiles:
the minimum roof slope at which the use of flexible tiles is allowed is 1:5 (11.3 degrees) (Fig. 1).
Climatic features of installation:
in the case of installation of a roof made of flexible tiles at a temperature below +5 °C, packages with tiles should be stored in a warm room before installation. It is allowed to use a hot air gun during installation.
Winter is really not the best time for the installation of flexible tiles, because according to the recommendations of manufacturers, this material cannot be laid at temperatures below +5 degrees. C. The fact is that the shingle (a sheet with 3-4 "tiles") is attached to a wooden base and a lining carpet spread over its surface with the help of nails and a self-adhesive layer, which is on the back of the shingle. In order to tightly glue the shingle to the base and shingles of neighboring rows, ensuring the tightness of the coating, the sun's rays are needed, which gradually “melt” the self-adhesive layer. And the sun in winter, alas, is not enough.
On the other hand, in recent years, winter in central Russia has been only occasionally cold. In addition, in sub-zero temperatures, you can carry out preparatory work for a flexible roof - mount a truss system, solid wood flooring, insulate the roof, steam and waterproofing, not forgetting to protect the roof structure from snow using a durable plastic film or ordinary roofing material. In the spring, without wasting precious time, lay flexible tiles, after removing the film or roofing material and laying the lining carpet.
With a strong need, you can mount a flexible roof in cold weather. To do this, a wooden or metal structure is built on top of the roof (or some part of it), covered with a special noise-dust protective film or plastic film (the so-called “greenhouse”) for scaffolding. From the inside, the “second roof” is heated by electric or diesel heat guns, as a result of which the required positive temperature is reached. It is worth adding that the "warmhouse" covering the whole house makes it possible to carry out not only roofing, but also, for example, plastering work on the facade, which also needs heat. "Teplyak" is a difficult engineering structure: it must be resistant to wind and snow loads, and also convenient for moving people and building materials.
The main stages of roof installation
1) Ground preparation
Start your roofing by preparing the base. As a base for flexible tiles, a material with a continuous, even surface is used, to which nailing is possible. OSB, moisture-resistant plywood or grooved, edged board can be used as a base. The moisture content of the base material must not exceed 20% of the dry weight. The joints of the boards must be placed in the places of the supports, and the length of the boards must be at least two spans between the supports. It is necessary to take into account the expansion of the boards caused by fluctuations in humidity and temperature, leaving a sufficient gap between the boards.
The thickness of the board and plywood at different rafter pitches (determined by the design calculation) with a snow load of 1.8 kN / sq.m., a point load of 1.0 kN
| Rafter pitch | Board thickness | plywood thickness |
| (mm) | (mm) | (mm) |
| 600 | 20 | 12 |
| 900 | 23 | 18 |
| 1200 | 30 | 21 |
2) Ventilation gap device
The air gap should be large enough (at least 50 mm), the exhaust hole should be placed as high as possible, and the air intake holes, respectively, in the lower part of the roof.
Rice. 2
Ventilation is necessary for:
- removal of moisture from insulation, lathing and roofing material
- reducing the formation of ice and icicles on the roof in winter
- reducing the temperature inside the roof structure in summer.
Remember, proper ventilation is the key to a long roof life!
3) Installation of the underlayment
Ruflex K-EL 60/2200 roofing material or Ruflex rolled roofing insulation material is used as a reinforcing underlay under flexible tiles over the entire roof area. The lining layer is mounted in the direction from bottom to top parallel to the eaves of the roof with an overlap of at least 10 cm, the edges are fixed with nails at an interval of 20 cm, the seams are sealed with K-36 glue (Fig. 3).
Rice. 3
With a roof slope of more than 1:3 (18 degrees), it is possible to lay lining material only on roof ridges, in valleys, on cornice overhangs and in the end parts of the roof, in places of penetrations through the roof (around chimneys, in places where the roof adjoins vertical walls, around roof windows) (Fig. 4).
Rice. four
Note: Depending on the method of fastening the drainage system, it may be necessary to install brackets for laying the underlayment.
4) Installation of metal cornice strips
To protect the edge of the lathing on the cornice overhangs from rain moisture, mount metal cornice strips (droppers) over the underlayment carpet with an overlap of min 2 cm. They are nailed in a zigzag manner with roofing nails with a pitch of 100 mm (Fig. 5).
Rice. 5
5) Installation of metal gable strips
To protect the edge of the lathing on the end parts of the roof, gable planks are mounted with an overlap of min 2 cm. They are nailed in a zigzag manner with roofing nails with a pitch of 100 mm (Fig. 6).
Rice. 6
6) Installation of the valley carpet
To increase water resistance in valleys, a RUFLEX SUPER PINTARI valley carpet, matching the color of the roof tiles, is laid over the underlayment. The edges are fixed with roofing nails at intervals of 100 mm (Fig. 7).
Rice. 7
7) Installation of cornice tiles
Next, mount the self-adhesive cornice tiles along the cornice overhang, having previously removed the protective film from its lower surface. Eaves tiles are laid butt-to-butt, retreating upwards from the place of inflection of the eaves strip 10-20 mm. Eaves tiles are nailed near the perforations, followed by overlapping of the fasteners with ordinary tiles (Fig. 8).
Rice. eight
8.1) Installation of ordinary tiles
Use a mix of 4-5 packs of roofing tiles to avoid color deviations. Laying ordinary tiles should be started from the center of the eaves overhang in the direction of the end parts of the roof (Fig. 9).
Rice. 9 
Rice. ten
Glue the tiles, having previously removed the protective film from its lower part (Fig. 10), (after that, individual tiles cannot be stacked on top of each other) and nail with four nails each slightly above the tile groove line (20-30 mm). If the roof slope is more than 1:1 (45 degrees), then each tile must be fastened with six nails (see Table 1).
Table 1. Consumption of roofing nails.
Lay the first row of tiles so that its lower edge is no higher than 1 cm from the lower edge of the eaves tiles (Fig. 11), and the "petals" cover the junctions of the cornice tiles.
Rice. eleven
Mount subsequent rows so that the ends of the "petals" of the tiles are at the same level or higher than the cutouts of the tiles of the previous row.
On the end parts of the roof, cut the tiles along the edge and glue with K-36 glue to a width of at least 10 cm (Fig. 12).
Rice. 12
In the valleys, cut the tile so that at the bottom of the valley there is an open strip of RUFLEX SUPER PINTARI about 15 cm wide (Fig. 13).
Rice. 13
Glue the edges of the tiles along the cut line to a width of at least 10 cm with K-36 adhesive. When cutting, place plywood under the tiles so as not to damage the bottom layer of the roofing carpet.
8.2) Installation of "Rocky" tiles
Laying of ordinary tiles should be started from the center of the cornice overhang in the direction of the end parts of the roof and the ridge. Lay the first row in such a way that the "petals" of the ordinary tiles cover the joints and the perforation line of the cornice tiles. Lay the next row in such a way that the junction of the lower shingles is located in the center of the medium-sized petal of the installed shingle (Fig. 14). Nail each row of tiles with four nails to the base just above the tile groove (20-30 mm) in the middle so that the nail heads are covered with the "petals" of the next ordinary tile.
Rice. fourteen
Note: Don't forget to remove the protective film from the shingle.
9) Installation of ridge tiles
Ridge tiles (0.25 x 0.33 m) are obtained by dividing the eaves tiles into 3 parts according to the perforations. Mount the ridge shingles on the roof ridge with the short side parallel to the ridge, having previously removed the film. Nail with four nails (2 on each side) so that the nails are under the next 5 cm overlap (fig. 15).
Rice. fifteen
10) Installation of roof junctions
Passages through the roof of small diameter (antenna, etc.) are made with the help of rubber seals. Chimneys and other pipes exposed to heat must be insulated. When installing flexible tiles near chimneys (Fig. 16) or other penetrations along the perimeter of the connection of the pipe with the roof, nail a triangular rail 50 * 50 mm. Next, mount Ruflex K-EL 60/2200 or Ruflex lining around the chimney, coat the overlaps with K-36 glue. Then place the roof tiles on a vertical surface and glue with K-36 adhesive. Glue the pipe around the perimeter with a SUPER PINTARI strip using a continuous layer of K-36 glue so that the top of the pipe is covered with a strip of at least 30 cm, and on the slope - at least 20 cm. which is fixed mechanically and seal the seams with weather-resistant silicone sealant. Adjacency to vertical walls is carried out in a similar way (Fig. 17).
Rice. 16
Rice. 17
Application of sealing adhesive K-36
For sealing the following nodes: overlaps of the lining carpet; overlaps of ordinary tiles on the valley carpet, junctions, penetrations of carpet ventilation systems, use Katepal "K-36" glue. Glue consumption is indicated in Table 2
Table 2. Consumption of Adhesive "K-36"
common data Storage temperature: up to + 33 deg. FROM Application temperature: from + 5 to + 50 deg. FROM Drying time to touch: about 5 hours at 20 degrees. C, full: from 1 to 14 days depending on the thickness of the layer and the ambient temperature. Attention! Do not use K-36 to seal seams, crevices, etc. If there is an excess of adhesive, excessive dissolution of the bitumen is possible! The use of solvents or other chemically active compounds is not allowed. You can get complete installation instructions for flexible tiles at any point of sale when purchasing material. If your roof has a complex profile or for some other reason the installation procedure is complicated, it is advisable to contact specialists. How to care for a shingle roof To maintain the operational and aesthetic properties of flexible tiles, it is necessary to check the condition of the roof at least 2 times a year. It is recommended to sweep away leaves and other small debris from the roof with a soft brush that does not damage the roofing. Branches and other large debris must be removed manually. Ensure free drainage of water from the roof. To do this, it is necessary to clean the gutters and funnels of debris. It is possible to rake snow from the roof only if necessary, in layers, leaving a protective layer of snow on the roof of 10-20 cm. To remove ice, do not use sharp objects that can damage the roofing. If there is a need to repair the roof, you need to get down to business immediately to avoid more serious damage. When working on the roof, the roof covering must be protected. |
Installation of ridges and hips for soft roofing, bituminous or shingles.
Installation of ridge tiles.
For skates, the same tiles are used as for cornices. According to the perforation, the shingle of the cornice tile is divided into three pieces (ridge tiles). Therefore, this tile is called Konkovo-Karniznaya or simply KNK.
Beforehand, the protective film is removed from the CNC from the underside of the tile. The ridge is mounted from the side opposite to the preferential winds. The bituminous ridge is bent in half and mounted with a fold along the roof ridge. Fastened with 4 (two nails on each side of the ridge). The overlap of the ridge tiles is done according to the level of the self-adhesive base.
The last tile is mounted according to the following rule:
A part without a self-adhesive base is cut off from the tile, then a part with an adhesive base is glued into place using bituminous glue, a building hair dryer or a propane torch. Roofing nails are not recommended when installing the last ridge tile.
hips
A more difficult task is the installation of hips. Hips are usually viewed from the ground. An unevenly made hip is easy to notice - it is quite striking, so their installation should be taken seriously.
How are they made. - Hips on a soft roof are made of eaves and ridge tiles(KNK). Mounting from bottom to top. For evenness use a kapron lace.
Now more details on the steps:
At the bottom of the hip - bend the CNK tile in half and lay it in the center along the edge of the hip. A 35 mm roofing nail is hammered from the side along the edge of the tile so that it is about 1-1.5 cm short. Then the nail is hammered at the top of the hip, also bending one ridge tile in half and laying it in the center along the hip. A nylon cord is pulled over these two studs, which is the lateral axis of the hip skate. One side of the hip is led along the lace.
After the lace is pulled, the hip skate is mounted. The lowest (first) tile is pushed out so that it reaches the eaves with its entire width. The parts of this tile that protrude beyond the cornice are carefully cut along the cornice. Further, adhering to the edges of the ridge tile along the cord, they mount the entire hip. So one edge of the hip is smooth, and on the second there are barely noticeable displacements that are created due to overlapping.
After mounting the hip, the lace is removed, and the studs are pulled out. In the holes where the nails were hammered gently apply glue and crush with crumbs from roofing tiles.
After mounting the ridges and hips, in order to avoid "ruffling" the ridge tiles, you need to walk carefully and warm (glue) with a building hair dryer or, best of all, with a roofing burner.
It is necessary to warm up carefully so as not to overheat the roofing tile (to a temperature no higher than when it is heated at).
The flexible tile is good because it can be laid by one person, even without an assistant. This is possible due to the light weight of parts called shingles and their small size. The largest dimension of the shingle is a length equal to one meter. Roofing from soft tiles, the laying technology of which we will consider in this article, is a fairly simple matter, if you strictly follow the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer of the purchased bituminous tiles. The main thing during the construction of the roof is to prepare the most even surface on which soft tiles will be laid.
Rafters for a soft roof are made in the same way as for any other roofing material. But the crate needs a two-layer. The first layer - to stiffen - is made from edged boards. The second - to create a flat surface - is made of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB board. The device of a roof from a soft tile can be carried out differently. If the roof is made over a building where its insulation is not provided, then the nodes of the roofing "pie" will look like this: 
- Layer of soft tiles.
- Lining carpet.
- Moisture resistant OSB board or plywood.
- Edged board trim.
- Rafter.
- Soft tiles.
- Lining carpet.
- OSB or plywood is waterproof.
- Cutting board.
- counter grating
- Waterproofing.
- Rafter.
- Insulation.
- Vapor barrier.
- Noise isolation or an additional layer of insulation.
- Sheathing for interior lining.
- Internal lining.
- Waterproofing.
- Counter-lattice.
- Plywood or OSB are waterproof.
- Lining material.
- Flexible tiles.
Tools
To work with shingles, you need a fairly simple set of tools:- A hammer.
- Cord.
- Putty knife.
- Metal scissors.
- Roulette.
- Sealant gun.
- Roofing nails.
Laying technology, work procedure
When purchasing shingles, accessories and consumables, it is best to select them so that they are all from the same manufacturer. So it will be easier to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and the installation of a roof made of flexible tiles will not be as difficult as it seems at first glance. And the components of the roofing carpet will better "work" together.Lining carpet
Underlayment is recommended to be laid over the entire surface of the roof. But if the slope of the slope is more than 18 °, then there is an opportunity to save a little. With such slopes, the lining material can only be laid along the perimeter of the roof - along the eaves, along the ridge, along the ends of the slope, along the outer bends of the roof, around chimneys and ventilation outlets and in valleys.metal slats
A fully completed insulated roof eaves assembly will look something like this:
The drip bar is mounted directly on the rafter beams under the waterproofing layer. Its task is to protect wooden structures (rafters and windboard) from condensate that forms in the ventilation duct and flows down the waterproofing material. After laying the lining material, fasteners for gutters are nailed to the eaves, in which these gutters are installed. Then, along the entire length of the eaves, a cornice strip is nailed so that its lower edge is inside the gutter. Thus, water flowing from the roof is removed into the drainage system without falling on the wooden structures of the crate and on plywood or OSB boards. If the roof is supposed to be “cold”, which means that there will be no waterproofing, then the drip bar is not needed. The drainage system is also an optional element. Then you can only get by with a cornice strip, which in such cases is sometimes also called a drip. 
At the ends of the roof, on the gables, starting from the cornice, an end or wind plank is applied with an overlap of at least 20 mm. 
Alternatively, in the valleys, it is possible to lay not a valley carpet made of the same material as the shingles, but a metal valley. 
In nature, it will look something like this: 
Installation of flexible tiles
If there are valleys in the roof structure, then first you need to lay a valley carpet or mount a metal valley. After that, you can start laying the main sheet of the soft roof. The installation of bituminous tiles begins with the laying of the cornice row. For this, cornice-ridge tiles are used. If it was not on sale at the time of purchase, you can use an ordinary one by cutting off the petals. When laying soft tiles, follow the recommendations or instructions from the manufacturer.. In the valley, shingles can be laid in different ways:
As a result, it will look something like this: 
Skate
Consider how you can make a ventilated ridge for a soft roof. His turn comes after the completion of laying the main sheet of shingles. In order for the air from the attic or from the ventilation ducts of the insulated roof to be able to escape into the atmosphere, when constructing the base, it is necessary to leave a distance in the ridge assembly between opposite roof slopes within 200–300 mm.
And so that moisture from rain or snow does not get under the roof, this gap is closed with its “roof”. To do this, you can use ready-made ridge elements, for example, these: 
Fasten with screws or nails according to the manufacturer's recommendation: 
Or you can make a ventilated skate yourself, as shown in this video: It can be seen here that along the upper edge of the slopes, perpendicular to them, bars with a section of about 50x50 mm are nailed. The step of the bars is determined by the thickness of the plywood or OSB board so as to prevent the "roof" of the ridge from bending. The width of such a "roof" can be assigned independently, within reasonable limits. A protective ventilation mesh is attached to the ends of the bars so that debris, insects and small birds cannot get under the ridge knot. Finally, elements of ridge-cornice and ordinary tiles are attached to sheets of plywood or OSB boards. The result is shown in the photo below. 
Alternatively, instead of a completely “breathing” ridge, it is possible to make the roof solid with the installation of ventilation hoods: 
Subsequently, if the “power” of the ventilated ridge is not enough to ventilate the roof, special aerators can be placed on its surface, the attachment points of which are shown in the following video: On this, the roofing device can be considered complete.