How to insulate wooden houses from the outside? Insulation of a wooden house from the outside: a step-by-step method of insulation. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside so that it breathes Insulation of a wooden house from the outside technology

Log houses are the warmest and most environmentally friendly. Wooden walls perfectly retain and accumulate heat and regulate the level of humidity. On every corner we hear that a wooden wall only 240 mm thick has the same thermal conductivity as a brick wall 1 m thick. Impressive, right? But there are situations when they built or bought a new log house, lived in it, and with the onset of the first serious cold weather, they realized that the house was cool and there were drafts. Then we seriously think about the insulation of the building, even to the detriment of beauty. But there may be more banal situations: they bought an old wooden house, which is already rather "worn out" and requires serious measures for warming. So a serious question arises, how to insulate a log house, what materials can be used, and what absolutely cannot be done.

Why is it cold in a log house - a little theory

What are the most common problems faced by log house owners who complain that it is cold in winter? Firstly, these are drafts in the rooms. Secondly, it blows on the legs. Thirdly, the house cools down quickly if the heating is turned off. Fourth, the walls are too cold. And many related nuances, from which it is concluded that the house must be urgently insulated, and it is imperative to start from the floor, since it is the coldest. Let's see what happens in the room when it is heated.

Imagine that we have a log house that we heat with some kind of heat source. What we have involved in heat transfer: heat source, air, ceiling, walls and floor. How does this happen? Recall the school physics course. Heating up from the heat source, the air rushes up - to the ceiling. Resting against the surface of the ceiling, it spreads over it, giving off heat and cooling. As a result, we get the ceiling - the warmest surface in the room. Further, the air flow reaches the walls and descends along them. Since our walls are much colder than the ceiling, the air cools much faster, and its speed increases. Now the air has already reached the floor, having fairly accelerated, and rushes along it at such a speed that an illusion of such a strong cold draft is created, as if there is no floor at all, and you are standing right on the snow.

If you place a heat source near the inner walls, as is usually done by heating with a fireplace or a portable radiator, then the heat transfer rate increases significantly. There is a constant draft in the room, it turns out that we ourselves are to blame for the fact that it is cold in the house.

No wonder there are norms that heating radiators should be located under the windows. The outer walls are initially the coldest, in contrast to the inner ones, which are quite inert. If you place a heat source near the outer wall, then the air will rise up, then fall back onto the walls, but now not at such a speed and will not cool so quickly. After all, the inner walls are quite warm, so passing them, the air will not cool too much. And descending along the outer walls, it will rest against the heat source again, where it will heat up and rise up. As a result: the room warms up faster, the structures retain heat better, since it is accumulated rather than wasted.

What you need to check to eliminate unnecessary heat loss:

1. Ceiling. The very first outpost to check for leaks, as up to 70% of heat can escape through it. Be sure to insulate the attic or attic floor to retain heat inside the room.
2. Walls. The second outpost is the outer walls and everything that is in them: windows, doors, etc. Incorrectly installed windows and doors are the scourge of log houses. Through them, the lion's share of heat can go away, without even having time to heat the room. Immediately from the radiator and into the gap under / above the window. Plus, do not forget to check whether the walls are carefully caulked, maybe cracks have already formed somewhere.
3. Floor. The last thing that can be a source of cold is the floor. It should be checked for serviceability and insulated in a standard way. Also for the winter it is worth reducing the ventilation of the underground, blocking most of the air.

I would also like to note that in order to make the heating of a log house better, it is possible to equip the house with “warm floors”, in addition to the existing heating system. Then warm air will be distributed more evenly throughout the room, due to which drafts near the floor will disappear and the house will cool more slowly.

By the way, too thin walls can also cause cold in the house. For example, for a climate with a cold harsh winter, but low humidity, walls 200 - 240 mm thick are sufficient. But for regions with wet winters, even if the temperature does not fall below -20 ° C, it is advisable to use logs with a diameter of at least 400 mm, and preferably 480 mm. Such regions, for example, include Moscow and the Moscow region, St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region. Be sure to take this into account when developing a log house project so that it does not hurt excruciatingly later.

What materials can be used to insulate a log house

The standard procedure for insulating a log house includes insulating the ceiling or attic, caulking the walls and insulating window and door frames, and insulating the floor. If everything is done correctly, then no additional measures will be needed.

Taking into account the fact that log houses are built in order to create a dwelling from natural environmentally friendly materials, it would be foolish to use polystyrene for insulation. Then all meaning is lost.

For attic insulation log house can be used sawdust, ecowool(cellulose cotton), seaweed, straw. In extreme cases, you can insulate mineral wool.

Caulker walls produced only with natural materials: moss, tow, hemp, jute, flax-based tape heaters and jute. The main requirement for the material is that it must have properties similar to wood.

For wooden floor insulation on logs you can use natural backfill materials, and you can mineral wool in rolls. But concrete floor will require a denser material, suitable polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, cork and basalt wool in slabs with a density of more than 160 kg/m3.

If, after all the standard procedures, the house is cold, maybe because the thickness of the logs was chosen incorrectly, maybe the house is already very old, or maybe the heating was calculated incorrectly, and you decided that without such a procedure as warming the walls of a log house , you can not do, then you should know some of the nuances.

The material that can be used to insulate log walls should have the following properties:

• To be vapor-permeable on a par with wood or to a greater extent if it is laid outside the building.
• Be moisture resistant so as not to accumulate moisture, which can lead to rotting of the tree.
• Be fireproof and resistant to the appearance of pathogenic fungi.
• It is easy to pass air.
• Have a sufficiently loose structure to fit snugly against a rounded log wall and leave no gaps.

Considering all of the above, to insulate a log house from the outside, you can use:

• Ecowool.

• Mineral wool (although it is not natural, it is easy to install and publicly available).
• Sawdust or sawdust-granules (filling material).
• Expanded clay (filling material).

Wood is an unusual building material. It not only “breathes”, but is also a kind of air recuperator. And if someone will assure you that the vapor permeability of wood across the fibers is slightly greater than that of reinforced concrete, know that you can object. Entering the thickness of the wood across the fibers, then the air is distributed along the fibers and exits through the end. In other words, the tree "breathes" with its ends.

It is precisely because the wooden walls are “living” that the following materials cannot be used:

• Styrofoam.
• Extruded polystyrene foam.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Mounting foam for sealing gaps.
• Sealants.

Using vapor barrier materials will cause the wood to rot, or if you protect it from the inside with a vapor barrier, you will turn a wooden house into a thermos. In this case, the whole point of building a house from a log will be lost. But the choice is still yours.

How to insulate a log house from the outside

As we have already found out, it is necessary to insulate the walls of a log house only when all other measures for insulation have not brought the desired result.

If you are interested in the question of how to properly insulate a log house from the outside or from the inside, then here is a definite answer for you - outside. This is due to the properties of the tree to breathe, accumulate moisture and give it away. In the case of an external location of the insulation, air and moisture will freely exit the tree and ventilate.

You can start warming only a year and a half after the completion of the construction, when the log house sits down.

Log wall caulk

Even if you have already made the final decision to insulate the house, the first step is to carefully caulk it. We examine all the walls for visible cracks. Then, in calm weather, we pass through the house with a candle, holding it close to the walls. If the flame leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place from which it blows in winter.

One of the most effective ways to look for cracks in logs is in winter when the house is heated, you need to go around and inspect all the walls. If you notice frost, it is sometimes also called a “bunny”, which means that heat is leaking from the room in this place.

Caulking should be done in dry, warm weather, using tow, jute, hemp or roll insulation. We put the material in the gap between the crowns and push it with a special tool - a caulk.

Ventilated facade device

Insulation of a log house from the outside is carried out by installing a ventilated facade. This design allows the wooden wall to "breathe" and release moisture.

First, we treat the walls with an antiseptic and flame retardant to protect the tree from fire and mold. On top of the walls we fill the crate, which will hold the insulation. To do this, we use a bar with a section of 50 mm. We fill vertically with a step equal to the width of the insulation boards minus 2 - 3 cm.

As a heater, we will use mineral wool in slabs with a density of 35 - 50 kg / m3, 50 mm thick.

Important! When installing insulation on a log wall, we encounter some inconvenience. The fact is that the wall is uneven, laying the insulation close without gaps is almost impossible. Therefore, we put insulation into the gaps (openings) between the wall and the battens of the crate. To do this, you can use "Basaltin" in rolls or interventional insulation - jute, lnovatin.

We insert mineral wool slabs between the crate, pushing them tightly into the opening. We do this from the bottom up.

On top of the insulation we mount a windproof waterproofing superdiffusion membrane. It must have a vapor permeability equal to at least 1400 g/m2 per day or higher.

Important! Properly selected wind protection for a ventilated log wall facade is almost the most important thing in insulation. This membrane will not allow moisture and wind to pass from the outside into the thickness of the insulation and walls, but at the same time it will release moisture and air from the inside to the outside, thus giving the walls the opportunity to “breathe”.

On top of the windshield we stuff a crate of 50 mm bars. We mount siding on the crate. It can be a vinyl siding that imitates wood, or you can use a block house, then the wall will have the same log profile as the real one.

For the entire thickness of the crate (50 mm), a ventilation gap is formed between the membrane and the facade. Air vents must be provided at the bottom and at the top so that air can circulate freely.

How to insulate a log house from the inside

The option of insulating the house inside must be considered before performing a ventilated facade. Perhaps standard insulation measures will be enough, and you won’t have to spoil the appearance of the walls.

The following procedures can be attributed to the insulation of a log house from the inside: insulation of the floor, ceiling, roof and walls. Moreover, experts are categorically against installing insulation inside the walls, since in this case the tree will dampen and rot.

Ceiling and roof insulation

The first thing, as soon as they found that it was cold in the house, we insulated the ceiling and roof.

If the house is one-story with an attic, then we lay a waterproofing film on the attic floor, pour insulation on top with a layer of 150 to 250 mm. It can be ecowool, sawdust, seaweed or ordinary mineral or glass wool in rolls. It is not necessary to cover the heater. From above, you can lay boards for ease of movement around the attic, but you do not need to equip the floor.

If the house has an attic floor instead of an attic, then it is necessary to insulate both the ceiling between the floors and the roof slope. It is enough to lay 50 - 100 mm of insulation (any) in the ceiling. If the attic floor is wooden, then we fill up the insulation between the lags. If the floor is concrete, then we use basalt wool in slabs or, in extreme cases, foam. To insulate the roof slope, we lay a waterproofing film directly under the roof, then lay the insulation (mineral wool) with a layer of 150 - 200 mm. We lay a vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation so that the material is not saturated with moisture from the room. We mount the crate and trim for the attic.

The above procedures should be enough to make the house warmer.

Insulation of the walls of a log house

Let's go to the walls. Since it is impossible to mount insulation inside log walls, what we can do is to caulk well from the inside, insulate all window and door openings.

To insulate openings, we use rolled interventional insulation or, in extreme cases, mineral wool, but in no case do we blow out the cracks with mounting foam, it will quickly become unusable, since the walls of a log house are constantly in motion, and foam is a non-plastic material.

To finish the walls of a log house from the inside, you can upholster them with wooden clapboard. In this case, the insulation between the wall and the finish cannot be mounted. The house will become a little warmer due to the fact that the wall will have a slightly greater thickness, as well as air gaps from the side of the heated room between the flat lining and the curved surface of the log walls.

Insulation of the floor of a log house

In order for the floor in a wooden house to be warm, it must be equipped, observing the entire technology of laying the floor on the ground. Be sure to perform backfilling, waterproofing and insulation. If the floor is wooden, we lay insulation between the lags with a layer of 100 - 150 mm. Top rough and finish floor.

If the floor is concrete, then between the layer of "lean" concrete and the main layer we lay polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam in slabs with a thickness of 50 - 80 mm.

Before insulating a log house with a ventilated facade, equip the house with a “warm floor” system. Perhaps this will be more than enough to ensure a comfortable stay in it. Then you don’t have to sew up beautiful log walls, because such houses are being built because of their primitive beauty. What's the use of covering the walls with siding?

Insulation of a log house is a whole range of measures. If everything is done correctly, start from the ceiling and roof, then caulk the walls well, insulate the windows and doors, the floor, there will be no need to sheathe the house from the outside. If this does not help, there is another way to keep warm in a log house, which is not described here - to build a glazed veranda on the coldest side of the house, thereby expanding the area and forming an air barrier.

At all times, wooden houses and log cabins are considered the warmest types of individual housing, since natural wood, due to its porous internal structure, has high thermal insulation properties. However, despite this, the constant heating of a large wooden house throughout the winter period entails quite large costs, especially considering that the price of natural gas and electricity is constantly increasing. Therefore, the insulation of wooden houses outside has now become very relevant.

In order to reduce heating costs and ensure a comfortable temperature inside their home, regardless of weather conditions, many owners of wooden houses resort to insulating the outer facade of the building using modern heat-insulating materials.

Insulation of the facade of a wooden house

Features of external thermal insulation of a wooden house

In addition to energy-saving functions, such insulation of a wooden house from the outside under plaster helps protect the wood surface from the harmful effects of weather factors, and allows you to finish the building with any facade paints for outdoor work.

Expanded polystyrene panels are prone to destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, therefore, after installation, they must be covered as soon as possible with a layer of decorative and protective plaster.

Cleaning and preparation of the facade

Before starting insulation of an old wooden house from the outside, you need to perform simple preparatory work that is aimed at improving the efficiency of thermal insulation and increasing the durability of a wooden building.

1. Using a stiff brush, the surface of the facade should be cleaned as much as possible from old dirt and dust, paying special attention to cracks, narrow places and depressions between the logs. If necessary, you need to re-caulk the old interventional insulation.
2. In the presence of significant pollution and stubborn dirt, you must first wet the facade with water from a hose, and after cleaning, allow it to dry completely for several days.
3. Carefully inspect the wooden facade, and if detected, eliminate the lesions with putrefactive bacteria, mold fungus or insect pests.
4. If significant gaps or cracks are found, they must be caulked with tow, a special cord or non-woven fabric made from natural plant fibers.
5. At the end of everything, the walls of the house should be treated with antifungal impregnation or an antiseptic primer, which tends to penetrate deeply between the fibers of the wood.

Method 1. Insulation with foam boards

Do-it-yourself classic insulation of a wooden house from the outside using rigid polystyrene foam or polystyrene panels is carried out according to the same principle as the thermal insulation of a brick facade, while the entire scope of work performed is as follows:

1. With the help of special glue, the foam plates must be glued to the facade in such a way that their joints are not in the same line, but are staggered.
2. After the adhesive solution has dried, it is necessary to additionally fix each panel in five places (in the corners and in the center) using long galvanized self-tapping screws, using wide plastic washers for this.

1. If there are large gaps or cracks at the joints of the panels, they must be sealed with narrow strips of foam or blown out with mounting foam.
2. Thus, the entire facade should be sewn up, after which the material for insulating a wooden house from the outside should be smeared with special building glue, and then pasted over with fiberglass reinforcing mesh.
3. After the glue has hardened and dried, the walls must be plastered and painted with exterior paint in any suitable color.

In most casesinsulation of the basement of a wooden house from the outsideusing foam, it is performed in a similar way, however, after gluing the reinforcing mesh, it must be coated with a layer of sand-cement mortar, which should have a thickness of about 20 millimeters.

Method 2. Mineral wool insulation technology

In order to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside with mineral or basalt wool panels, you must first install a vertical and horizontal crate made of timber or a galvanized profile, the cross section of which must be equal to the thickness of one layer of thermal insulation.

1. First of all, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade must be covered with a vapor barrier membrane, after which vertical bars should be fixed on it from the roof to the basement, keeping the distance between them 22-32 mm less than the width of the insulation.
2. The resulting vertical openings between the bars must be filled with mineral wool, leaving no air gaps between the plates.

1. Similarly, horizontal bars must be nailed to the vertical crate, after which the space between them is also closely filled with insulation boards.
2. After installation, the insulation for a wooden house from the outside must be closed with a special waterproofing film with micropores, which freely passes water vapor and air from the inside to the outside and prevents water from entering back.
3. Finally, a finishing finishing material is attached to the wooden frame. Most often, metal or plastic siding or plastic panels with imitation of various building materials are used for these purposes.

To increase durability and protection against decay, all bars of vertical and horizontal battens, as well as other wooden structural elements, must be treated twice with antiseptic and antifungal impregnation before installation.

Conclusion

Mineral wool can absorb moisture, which will lead to a decrease in its thermal insulation properties, therefore, when performing external insulation of a wooden house using this material on your own, small gaps must be left in the lower and upper parts of the facade, which are necessary for free air circulation.

In order to study in detail the technology for performing such work, it is recommended to watch the attached video in this article, or read similar articles that can be found on this site. If the reader has any comments or questions, I suggest discussing them in the comment form.

It is good when the house is warm and comfortable, it sounds especially true for owners of private houses. The issue of home insulation is often of interest to rural residents, most of them live in wooden buildings.

If you start to put in order an old wooden house, then you definitely need to do its warming. There are also new houses made of timber, which for various reasons were not insulated during construction and the owners are forced to solve this problem after the completion of construction work. With thermal insulation, a natural question immediately arises, what material to use and how wooden houses are insulated.

log houses

Wooden buildings are considered the most environmentally friendly, they are not hot in summer, and warm in winter, there is always a normal level of humidity. Such buildings require a special approach and knowledge of operation, so that they always live as comfortably as possible, and heat losses are minimized.

Most of the heat in wooden houses leaves through the roof up to about 40%, up to 35% can go through the windows, the walls take about 10%, and the floors 15%. As a result, it turns out that a lot of money is spent on heating housing during the cold period of time, and there is still no comfortable temperature for the family to live.

Properly chosen means for performing thermal insulation normalize the temperature regime in a dwelling, including a wooden one. A wide range of insulation materials makes it possible to insulate houses outside and inside. For greater efficiency, professionals recommend making thermal insulation on the outside of the building so that it is comfortable to live in it throughout the year.

Material selection

Mineral wool can be called the most suitable option for warming wooden houses, it has all the necessary qualities - light, keeps heat well and has an affordable price. The lightness and elasticity of mineral wool also makes it easy to lay the material, it will not be affected by thermal deformations of the walls of the house, and “cold bridges” will not appear. After the walls of the house are insulated with mineral wool from the outside, they must be sheathed with a board so that the building has a traditional appearance.

You can also insulate your home using polystyrene foam, but they are not recommended to insulate wooden houses, such insulation is suitable for brick and concrete buildings. The tree must breathe, and polystyrene foam, despite its qualities, does not pass air well. For this reason, condensation may accumulate, and this will lead to the formation of mold and mildew.

A good option for external insulation of wooden houses will be ecowool. Modern insulation contains 80% cellulose and 20% antiseptics. They help protect the building from rodents and mold. Such material is suitable for insulation of any type of buildings.

There are also options for warming wooden houses with fiberglass, expanded clay, basalt wool, sawdust granules. Any of the selected materials must have the following characteristics:

1. The degree of vapor permeability of the insulation should be higher than that of wood or at the same level.
2. Increased moisture resistance to avoid future mold or fungus formation on the walls of the building.
3. Good refractory properties, this is especially important for wooden buildings.
4. breathable ability. The selected material must have this property, otherwise the wooden walls of the house will not be able to “breathe”, and this will disrupt the entire microclimate inside the building.
5. Loose structure of the insulation. It will help to fit more closely to the walls and will give a greater effect in the thermal insulation of the home.

How to insulate wooden houses?

The process of warming wooden houses takes place in stages, first you need to decide on the material, and then proceed to the vapor barrier of the house. As a material, you can choose:

1. aluminum foil.
2. Special vapor barrier film.
3. Ruberoid.
4. Polyethylene film.

Vapor barrier will give ventilation to the facade of the building under the film, which is especially important for the walls of a wooden building with a smooth board. On such a surface, it is necessary to fill wooden slats with an approximate thickness of 2.5 cm at a distance of 1 meter from each other in a vertical position. A layer of vapor barrier is stuffed onto the prepared and fixed rails. In the upper and lower parts, it is necessary to make small holes for ventilation, with a diameter of about 20 mm. This will prevent moisture from accumulating under the film and will maximize the life of the wooden structure. The vapor barrier is attached with nails or staples, as well as additionally with adhesive tape, so that moisture does not get into the attachment points in the future.

The second stage is the device of the frame. For this work, you will need boards 40-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide. The boards are stuffed vertically on the edge to the wall surface with a distance that will be a couple of centimeters less than the thickness of the insulation (mineral wool slabs). For this work, the board should not be thin, since the facing material will then also be attached to it.

The next step is to lay a layer of thermal insulation material. It is best to lay mineral wool in two layers with a thickness of 50 mm boards. Insulation plates are installed between the frame boards very tightly to each other so that there are no gaps between them. The middle part of the plates of the second layer of mineral wool should be at the joints of the first layer of insulation so that no gaps form. Although mineral wool boards are resilient and semi-rigid, they can hold together without slipping on the frame without fastening. It is better to fasten them with metal or plastic anchors for greater reliability.

The last layer is waterproofing, which must be laid on top of the insulation. The waterproofing film must allow steam to pass through and not retain moisture on the wall and thermal insulation. The waterproofing film must be firmly nailed or stapled to the wooden frame. Make the joints overlap by about 5-10 cm, and glue them with self-adhesive tape for better sealing.

After finishing laying the waterproofing, you can proceed to the exterior cladding of the walls of the house. The main stages of insulation have been completed, and the finishing material will only perform a decorative function. What to choose for facing will depend on the style of the building and the taste of the owners of the house, as well as their financial capabilities. Most often, natural wood or plastic is chosen for decorative cladding, but it should be borne in mind that the total thickness of the insulation can be from 15 to 25 cm. This will significantly deepen the windows of the old building, so you should think about how they will be closed from the side of the openings - platbands, siding, new window sills.

It is not easy to insulate the outside, it is easier to insulate the house from the inside. If you correctly perform the external insulation of the walls of the house, this will help not only to avoid heat loss, the thermal insulation layer will serve as protection against temperature changes, as well as from dampness and humidity. If possible, it is necessary to deal with the insulation of the foundation of the building. It is best to do this even before the start of wall insulation, having processed the foundation in advance and then sheathing it with felt or jute tow. Before insulating the walls of the house, it is advisable to treat them with an antiseptic. This will help prevent damage to your home in the future.

It is advisable to caulk all the cracks in the walls of a wooden house, which can be easily detected in calm weather with a lit candle, bringing it as close as possible to the surface of the wall. When the flame from a candle leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place. The presence of cracks can be seen in winter. In these places there will be a frost coating during the heating period of the building. It is best to caulk cracks in warm and dry weather, using tow, hemp or jute.

A wooden house is a special structure, so it requires a special approach to itself. It can be compared to a living being, it settles in the spring and rises in the summer. Such a structure also needs insulation, like other types of buildings, but since a wooden house “breathes”, it needs a heater that will help condensate pass through it. Properly executed thermal insulation can extend the life of a wooden structure, it will always be warm and comfortable.

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Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

• Stages of wall insulation
• Work materials
• Work order

Today, more and more people in the construction of houses in order to maintain their health prefer to use natural materials, including wood. Wooden houses are often assembled from a square bar with a section of 150x150 mm and 200x200 mm. Such buildings came to us from warm countries, where the average annual temperature is about 0 degrees. In the climate of Russia and the CIS, they require good heating. This leads to high costs for electricity, gas and other heat sources. In recent years, wooden houses have been built from rounded logs.

It is more efficient to insulate houses from a bar from the outside.

In a wooden house it is always quiet, calm, cozy and comfortable. To achieve even greater comfort and in order to save money on space heating, many owners try to insulate their wooden houses both outside and inside. Internal insulation has a big drawback: it significantly reduces the internal area of ​​​​the house. Therefore, the insulation of a wooden house from the outside is the most ideal option.

If you properly insulate the walls, you can minimize the heat loss of a wooden house.

You can do all this with your own hands. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

Stages of wall insulation

Insulation of a log house from the outside.

The whole technology of warming a house from the outside comes down to several main stages:

• choice of insulation material;
• calculation of the amount of materials;
• direct installation of thermal insulation outside the building;
• final finishing of the facade.

Among the heaters, the most popular are sheet foam, which is also called polystyrene foam, and mineral wool. For a wooden house, it is preferable to choose mineral wool. It is better ventilated (breathes) and provides excellent thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene is a very good insulation, but it does not breathe. For wooden walls, this is detrimental. They will soon begin to become covered with mold, fungus and rot. To prevent this from happening, it is better to insulate the house with mineral wool.

Calculating the amount of mineral wool is not difficult. This material is sold in slabs and rolls. It is better to choose cotton wool in plates. They are simply more convenient to use, especially when insulating even walls. The thickness of the plates is usually 50 mm. With a wooden wall thickness of 20 cm and an outdoor temperature in winter of up to minus 20 degrees, one layer of mineral wool is enough for insulation. At temperatures below minus 20, the walls can be insulated with two or three layers of heat insulator.

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The design of the insulation of a wooden house for the average climatic zone.

To perform insulation work, you will need:

• mineral wool;
• wooden lath 50x50 mm for single-layer insulation;
• rail 50x100 mm for two-layer insulation;
• waterproofing film;
• self-tapping screws;
• antiseptic for wood (antifungal emulsion);
• construction stapler;
• Staples;
• metal or plastic anchors;
• building level or plumb.

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The scheme of layers for the insulation of a wooden house.

Work on the insulation of walls outside is best done in the summer and do it in a certain sequence:

• surface preparation;
• installation of a waterproofing layer;
• installation of wooden crates;
• installation of mineral wool slabs;
• installation of an external waterproofing layer;
• facade finishing.

Surface preparation includes the treatment of the outer surfaces of the walls with an antiseptic or antifungal emulsion. After processing, the emulsion should dry well.

Aluminum foil, polyethylene film, roofing felt are used as waterproofing. But it is better to purchase a special porous insulating film. It has small membranes to allow air and water vapor to pass only in one direction. Outwardly, one side of the film is glossy, the other is slightly fleecy and rough. With this rough side, the film is directed towards the wall of the house. The waterproofing film is attached to the wooden wall with brackets using a construction stapler. Film layers are recommended to be applied in a horizontal direction, starting from the bottom. The upper layers are superimposed on the lower ones with an overlap of 10-15 cm. It is advisable to additionally glue the joints with construction tape, which is sold together with the film.

Scheme of wall insulation with mineral wool.

The purpose of this layer is to ensure ventilation of the facade of the house under the film. On even walls, it is recommended to fill slats with a thickness of 20-25 mm every m. Attach the film to these slats. At the top and bottom between the slats, holes with a diameter of about 20 mm should be cut in the film. This technology will prevent moisture from accumulating between the wooden wall and the vapor barrier film.

A crate is mounted on top of the laid waterproofing film. Before that, you need to measure the width of the thermal insulation plates in centimeters. Subtract 2 from the result obtained. The resulting figure should be remembered. It is at this distance that the slats of the crate will be located.

The installation of the crate begins with fixing the initial rail with self-tapping screws to the very corner of the house. The verticality of its installation is controlled by a level or a plumb line. The next bars are fastened in such a way that mineral wool slabs are very tightly placed between them.

Mineral wool is very easy to install. If necessary, it can be cut with a sharp knife. The insulation boards are attached to the wall with anchors. Through the cotton wool, holes are drilled in the wood of the wall in increments of 50 cm, anchors are hammered into them. The core is driven into the anchor through a layer of cotton wool. He wedges the anchor body and presses the insulation plate against the wall with his wide cap.

After installing all the insulation boards on the wall, a new layer of waterproofing is laid outside this insulation. The rough side of the film is applied to a layer of mineral wool. It is fastened with brackets to the bars of the crate. On top of the film and staples, rails with a section of about 40x50 mm are fastened with self-tapping screws. They will be needed as a crate for finishing the walls. For this finish, lining, siding, facade boards and other finishing facade materials are used.

To insulate the walls from the outside is not the end of the work. It is necessary to take into account the fact that when the house is insulated from the outside, the thickness of the walls will increase by 8-20 cm. It is necessary to consider the question of how to close the insulation layer from the side of window and door openings. Possible options - new platbands and window sills, siding, lining.

http://youtu.be/Lxy-eLCamq8

Properly executed insulation of the walls of a wooden structure requires an investment of time, labor and money. But the result is a large annual savings in heating costs, the service life of the building is significantly extended, living conditions in such a house become more comfortable. To insulate walls is to extend the life of wooden housing.

1poteply.ru

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house outside: characteristics of heaters, how to insulate a house with high quality

Wood is considered one of the best insulators, so houses made of such material often do not need additional insulation. However, some owners of wooden buildings believe that the tree may someday begin to deteriorate, and in order to protect their possessions, they insulate them and also clad them. In addition, high-quality thermal insulation can significantly save on electricity consumption, which is consumed by heating devices. Before you start warming the house from the outside, you should decide not only on the order of work, but also on the material that will be used for this.

What material is needed for the insulation of external walls?

How is a wooden house insulated from the outside? For this, the following materials are used:

• Mineral wool. This material has good thermal and sound insulation performance, it provides a tight fit and practically does not need additional fixation. In addition, the elasticity and softness of the material allows you to stack it easily and efficiently. Mineral wool is not affected by high temperatures. It also does not allow mold or fungus to spread through its structure, and toxic substances are not used in its creation.
• Penoplex (expanded polystyrene). It is a special plate, which is created from expanded polystyrene with a cellular structure. Such material has low thermal conductivity, good strength, long service life, practically does not absorb moisture, and is also resistant to temperature extremes and frost. However, penoplex has a high cost and is easily damaged by rodents. Under the influence of high temperatures, it easily melts and burns.
• Styrofoam. It is considered the most popular material used to insulate the outer walls of a wooden house. Its structure is a bit like penoplex, but its cells are of a different size, and it also has a different density and manufacturing method. Such material has good thermal insulation properties, does not absorb moisture at all and has a small weight. It is easy to install and also has a low price. However, the foam has poor gas and vapor permeability, which is why air does not enter the room.
• Polyurethane foam. It is a fairly effective material used to insulate walls outside a wooden house. Its installation is carried out by spraying. Many people prefer polyurethane foam to other heaters for its remarkable qualities and the ability to replace the old layer with a new one only after 30 years. Its foamy structure perfectly protects against frost and dust. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of caustic chemical fumes and even acids. In addition, it does not absorb moisture well, has high environmental friendliness and good fire resistance. However, it is worth protecting it from ultraviolet radiation, which can quickly age the material.

Requirements for materials used for wall insulation

The main characteristics that you need to pay attention to when choosing a heater for the walls of a wooden house are the following:

For example, expanded polystyrene has absolutely ideal characteristics, but it has a significant drawback - it is a high degree of flammability and the release of ethylene, which has a negative effect on the human body. But mineral heaters practically do not burn, have good chemical resistance, hygroscopicity and a high degree of sound insulation.

You should simply strive to carry out high-quality insulation with materials in order to avoid such unfavorable moments as excessive moisture and instability to the effects of rodents, and at the same time increase the positive qualities - fire resistance, strength, reliability.

It is necessary to consider in more detail the technology of insulating the outer walls of a wooden house with such popular materials as mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house with mineral wool

Before proceeding with the insulation of the house, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls, slabs or mats. It is best to use material in the form of plates for insulation, since rolls are completely inconvenient. To calculate the required amount of insulation, you should know how thick the supporting structure has. The natural factor is also important. For example, for wooden walls with a thickness of no more than 20 cm, one layer of mineral wool will suffice, provided that the winter is not too severe. In addition, the following tools and materials must be purchased for the insulation process:

• self-tapping screws;
• anchors;
• special film for waterproofing;
• building level;
• construction stapler;
• plumb.

Then they begin to prepare the surface that will need to be insulated. Due to the fact that it is wooden, it is necessary to treat it with special agents that prevent the formation of fungus. It can be an emulsion or a primer. In order for the antiseptic to dry thoroughly, you should leave it for a while. Outside, the walls must be dry when laying insulation. The joints that are between the boards should also be studied. There should be no damage or cracks.

After that, thermal insulation is carried out. First, a vapor barrier layer is attached. It can be roofing material, vapor barrier, plastic film or aluminum foil. The vapor barrier layer is necessary for the ventilation of the facade of the house. Vertically narrow slats are stuffed onto the surface, on which a layer of vapor barrier is attached. Small ventilation holes are made at the top and bottom between these slats, which prevent the formation of moisture that adversely affects the wooden walls. To prevent moisture from seeping through the holes from the staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

Then the crate is installed. A frame is made for the subsequent installation of a layer of thermal insulation. Boards should be 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide. They should be fastened with the rib part to the wall. The distance between them directly depends on the thickness of the insulation.

Proceed to the installation of thermal insulation material. It should be laid between the installed bars of the crate. If necessary, mineral wool is cut with an ordinary knife. Installation is carried out, completely excluding all gaps and cracks. Insulation is carried out as follows: the junction line of the first layer of insulation should be at the level of the middle of the slab of the second layer. Mineral wool is an elastic material, so no additional fasteners are required. Then several small holes are made in the insulation. They are required for fasteners and anchors.

Perform waterproofing of the structure. Attach a special bar that retains moisture and does not let air through. It should be overlapped and secured with a construction stapler. To maintain tightness, all joints and openings should be sealed with construction tape. A rail is attached to the waterproofing layer, creating the movement of air flows between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. At the bottom, the free space is covered with a metal mesh that protects against rodents and insects. After the insulation is completed, the house is sheathed with any finishing material.

Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house with foam plastic

This material is considered the most popular used to insulate the outer walls of a wooden house. Before starting insulation work, make sure that the joints on the wall of the house do not have cracks or holes. Then the boards are vertically mounted on which the foam will be attached. In order for the sheets to fit tightly into the constructed frame, it is necessary to observe a certain distance between the boards. To do this, you need to add the thickness of the foam and the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame is mounted in this way: the bars with the rib part should be nailed to the middle of the previous ones. The resulting structure must have the same depth as the insulation. Then a layer of thermal insulation is attached. Work starts from the bottom. There must be the correct distance between the bars - this is the key to high-quality fastening of the foam. Check if there are gaps at the joints.

On top of the previous layer, the diffusion membrane should be fixed with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints should be insulated with adhesive tape. After the insulation of the house is completed, it is clad.

Thus, in order to qualitatively insulate a wooden house from the outside, it is necessary to use only environmentally friendly materials that have the appropriate technical characteristics. To do this, it is necessary to carefully study the positive and negative sides of each insulation and draw the appropriate conclusions.

kotel.guru

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside with your own hands: choosing the right insulation, stages of work on insulation

Wood is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials used in construction. At the same time, it is natural and environmentally friendly.

Recently, the construction of wooden houses is becoming more widespread. A room made of such material turns out to be very warm, and the owners do not even try to insulate it, but in vain. In frosty winters, even a tree is not able to retain heat. Therefore, many people have a question: how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? This needs to be looked into in more detail.

The better to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Houses made of wood can be insulated from the outside or from the inside. According to most experts, it is external insulation that gives the greatest effect, because:

• saves space inside the house;
• this is a wonderful protection of load-bearing walls from natural disasters;
• moisture on the walls will never accumulate, thereby preventing the appearance of condensation, and accordingly the tree will not rot and decay.

Warming the house from the outside requires careful selection of the necessary material. It is best to use mineral wool and polystyrene foam for these purposes.

Mineral wool

Most often, do-it-yourself warming of a wooden house is carried out using mineral wool, which has the following qualities:

Styrofoam

It is an environmentally friendly material and has been used as a material for thermal insulation for a very long time. It is resistant to moisture and various microorganisms, and is also very durable. However, experts do not advise warming a wooden house with it, since it has one serious drawback - high flammability and the ability to release ethylene, which is harmful to the human body.

Insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool

To insulate the building, it is best to purchase mineral wool, which is most often used for these purposes. In hardware stores you can buy mineral wool in the following variations:

It is best to use material in slabs for insulation, since rolls are very inconvenient.

Material Quantity Calculation

First, calculate the amount of material needed for insulation. To do this, you need to know how thick the supporting structure has. It is also necessary to take into account the natural conditions. For example, during not too severe winters, the walls of a house 20 cm thick should be insulated with one layer of mineral wool.

In addition to the material for insulation, you should purchase anchors, self-tapping screws and a special film for waterproofing. You will also need tools such as a plumb line, building level and a special stapler.

Surface preparation for insulation

Then proceed to the preparation of the surface, which requires insulation. Since it is wooden, it must be treated with special means from the formation of fungus. You can use emulsion or primer. In order for the selected antiseptic to dry thoroughly, it is left for a while. One more condition must be observed - the walls should not be wet. Correctly lay the insulation only on a dry surface. There should not be any gaps between the boards. If they nevertheless arose, then the situation is corrected with the help of jute tow or polyurethane foam.

Vapor barrier and batten installation

The next step is the implementation of vapor barrier. They begin to fix the vapor barrier layer, using polyethylene film, aluminum foil, as well as roofing felt or a vapor barrier. Such a layer is intended to ensure that the facade of the house has ventilation. Narrow slats begin to be vertically stuffed onto a smooth surface, which will subsequently be used to attach the vapor barrier layer.

Ventilation holes are provided between the rails at the bottom and at the top. They are necessary to prevent the formation of moisture, which can damage wooden walls. To prevent water from penetrating through the holes from the staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

Starting to install the framing. To do this, install a frame that will be used to mount the thermal insulation layer. The thickness of the boards should be 40 mm and the width 100 mm. They are attached to the wall with a rib part. The distance between the bars directly depends on how thick the material for insulation has. Be sure to use the building level, with which they align the position of the boards relative to the vertical level.

Installation of thermal insulation material

Next, proceed to the installation of material for insulation. It is laid between the bars of the crate. If necessary, the mineral wool is cut with an ordinary sharp knife. Installation is carried out in such a way as to completely eliminate gaps and cracks. A feature of mineral wool is its elasticity, which allows you not to use additional fasteners. After that, several holes are made in the insulation at a distance of 50 cm from each other for fasteners and anchors.

Construction waterproofing and facade cladding

Then proceed to the waterproofing of the structure. To do this, they attach a special film that can retain moisture and does not allow air to pass through. Lay it with an overlap and fix it with ordinary nails or a construction stapler to the frame. For tightness, all joints and openings are sealed with construction tape. A rail should be attached to the waterproofing layer. As a result, air circulation is created between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. From below, the free space must be closed with a metal mesh so that various insects and rodents do not penetrate inside.

The final stage of warming the house is the cladding of the facade with the necessary finishing material, for example, a block house or siding. The process of installation of the finishing coating is carried out according to the technology.

Insulation of a wooden house with foam plastic

Styrofoam is also used to insulate the house with their own hands. Before starting the installation of insulation, check the quality of the joints on the wall. After that, the boards that will be needed to fix the foam are mounted. For tight entry of insulation sheets into the constructed frame, it is necessary to strictly observe the required distance of the boards from each other. To do this, add up the thickness of the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame begins to be mounted in this way: the bars are nailed to the middle of the previous ones with the edge part. Then they begin to attach a layer of insulation, this process is best started from the bottom. The correct distance between the bars is the key to good fastening of the material. Be sure to check for gaps at the joints. A diffusion membrane is fixed on top of the previous layer with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints are sealed with adhesive tape. In the end, they carry out the facing of a wooden house.

Wood is a material widely used in construction due to its many advantages. The popularity of building structures and wood finishes is ensured by environmental friendliness, strength and low thermal conductivity of wood, so wooden houses in the suburbs and rural areas, built using modern technologies, do not look like anachronisms to this day - they are durable, beautiful, and provide a comfortable temperature regime in them lighter than in stone buildings.

Private house made of wood

However, due to the influence of unfavorable factors on the enclosing structures - temperature changes, humidity, microorganisms, the wood dries out, rots, deforms and eventually loses its positive characteristics, including thermal insulation properties.

If you insulate a wooden house, and, moreover, perform the operation in a timely and correct manner, this will not only protect the walls of the log house and extend its service life, but also reduce heating costs by reducing heat loss, and also improve the microclimate in the home. Consider how best to do it, including with your own hands.

Features of warming a wooden house

Wood is a unique material that has the ability to “breathe”, and the intensity of this “breathing” (vapor permeability) along and across the fibers is different. The maximum vapor permeability coefficient of a tree is along the fibers, the minimum is across. This characteristic also depends on the type of tree.

According to the classification according to SP 23-101-2004, including the recommendations of clause 8.11, the walls of a wooden house on which insulation is made are two-layer structures, therefore their insulation is performed from the outside:

Excerpt from SP 23-101-2004

Material suitability criteria for warming a wooden house

To meet the requirements of building regulations, the sequence of layers should not only prevent the accumulation of moisture in the thickness of the building envelope, but also contribute to its evaporation / weathering. Therefore, the vapor permeability of each of the layers is important.

Important! To exclude wetting of a multilayer building envelope, the vapor permeability of the materials of its layers should increase in the direction “from inside to outside”.

The processed logs or bars have a surface, most of which consists of sections of fibers. The vapor permeability across the fibers of such products is higher than that of untreated products, but to a certain depth.

For clarity, we will reduce building materials with thermal insulation properties in a comparative table and arrange them after wood in descending order of the vapor permeability coefficient:

Material	Density	Vapor permeability mg/m h Pa
Wood (pine, spruce) across/along the grain
Mineral wool
PVC foam (marking "1")
Expanded clay concrete
Autoclaved aerated concrete D500
Hollow Clay Brick
Solid clay/lime brick
Penoplex
polyurethane foam
Styrofoam
Ruberoid, glassine
Polyurethane mastic
Polyethylene

Conclusion - of the listed heaters, mineral wool has the optimal degree of vapor permeability.

The vapor permeability coefficient of expanded polystyrene is small, but despite this, the use of foam plastics as a heater for wooden houses is not prohibited by standards. The same applies to penoplex, which is superior to polystyrene foam in terms of strength characteristics, but also has low vapor permeability.

Materials used to insulate wooden walls

Highlighting two groups of insulating materials suitable for insulating wooden structures, consider the degree of suitability of each isolant - this will allow you to better understand than specifically and by what mounting technology insulate a wooden house from the outside.

Mineral wool insulation

This group of thermal insulation materials includes the following insulators:

• stone wool;
• slag wool;
• glass wool;
• ecowool.

Stone (basalt) wool - non-combustible heat-resistant fibrous material in the form of plates or mats, made from rocks and withstanding heating up to 600 0 C. The basalt fibers of the insulation are interconnected with formaldehyde resins, and to reduce hygroscopicity, the insulator is treated with a hydrophobic composition. Improved types of stone wool are available with a foil, fiberglass or kraft paper coating. The expediency of using basalt wool as a heater for wooden houses is determined by its low thermal conductivity, high vapor permeability and resistance to microorganisms, and the significant rigidity of the mats with low weight make it the best option when choosing a mineral wool insulator.

Important! Stone wool fibers are elastic and, unlike glass wool, do not cause skin irritation, but the laying of this material must still be carried out using personal protective equipment (respirator, goggles and clothing).

stone wool

The disadvantage of basalt wool is its high cost relative to other heaters in the group.

slag wool - a heat insulator produced from the waste of the metallurgical industry, produced in the form of plates and rolls, often with foil on one side. The thermal insulation characteristics of slag wool are worse than those of the previous insulating material, and its maximum heat resistance is 300 0 C, but at a price it is a widely available material that is good noise protection and repels rodents.

Important! Serious disadvantages of slag wool are hygroscopicity and the release of sulfurous acid compounds when wet, which has a destructive effect on wood.

slag wool

Due to these shortcomings, slag wool is the least preferred material for wood insulation from the group of insulators under consideration.

glass wool - long-fiber insulation with a low specific gravity, produced from a molten mixture of cullet with limestone and borax. It is produced in rolls and sheets, foil-coated and with a reinforcing fiberglass coating. A significant length of fibers (15-50 mm) provides glass wool superiority over other types of mineral wool insulation in elasticity, resilience and tensile strength.

Glass wool is non-combustible, heat-resistant (withstands up to 450 0 C), vapor-permeable, resistant to chemicals and has high thermal insulation characteristics. When wet, the material loses its heat-shielding properties and dries for a long time, therefore, like other heaters of the group under consideration, it needs hydroprotection.

The main disadvantage of glass wool is the difficulty of working with it, due to the fragility and causticity of the fibers that penetrate ordinary clothing and are dangerous to the respiratory tract, eyes and skin.

Ordinary sheet and roll foil glass wool

A comparison table will help you make a choice between slag and glass wool:

Comparison of characteristics reveals the preference for using glass wool, but this does not take into account the possibility of using basalt thermal protection, which is the best option.

Ecowool - a heater made from paper industry waste, consisting of natural cellulose (80%) with the addition of flame retardants, which provide the ability to absorb and evaporate moisture without compromising the thermal insulation characteristics of the material. The composition of the insulator also includes antiseptics and insecticides that protect the insulation from insects, rodents and microorganisms.

Ecowool is produced in the form of a dry loose mass of light gray color, packaged in bags, which is applied to the base using special compressor equipment.

Despite a number of significant advantages (high thermal insulation properties, sound and vibration absorption, environmental friendliness), the popularity of this insulation due to the complexity and high cost of mechanical application is low. Laying by hand is laborious, time-consuming and less efficient.

Solid polymer insulation

Given the low vapor permeability of these polymers, the wood trimmed with them from the outside will not “breathe”, as a result of which it will begin to dampen and rot. Accordingly, in order to prevent these processes, special attention will have to be paid to the ventilation of internal premises and materials for their decoration, which entails considerable additional costs, both during the arrangement and during operation.

Thus, the use of foam plastics on wooden structures from the outside is impractical, light ceilings along interfloor wooden beams do not need insulation at all. But concrete slabs, stone plinths of wooden houses need thermal protection, and solid polymers with their high thermal insulation characteristics will effectively provide it.

From sheet polymer thermal insulation materials for the insulation of concrete structures of wooden houses, the most popular are:

• expanded polystyrene;
• penoplex;
• PVC foam.

Styrofoam - one of the many varieties of foam, in everyday life is often called that. It has high thermal insulation characteristics, is light, easy to process, cheap, but at the same time it is fragile, combustible and vapor-tight.

Styrofoam (one of the foams)

In addition, the structure of this insulating material is a closed balls, the cavities between which are available for water penetration. The moisture accumulated in the foam plastic not only adversely affects the structures finished with it, but also, freezing, destroys the insulation shell itself. Accordingly, these shortcomings require the implementation of additional, compensatory types of work and impose restrictions on the use of expanded polystyrene.

Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam ) - an improved foam, a dense and solid insulation, due to its high characteristics, it is widely used in civil and industrial construction.

The working temperature range of foam plastic is wide (from -50 to +75 0 C) and depends on the density of a particular brand of material applied to the sheets in the form of the letters "K", "C", "F", "Comfort", "45". For the insulation of wooden walls, a heater marked "C" (wall) and "Comfort" (universal) is intended.

Important! Penoplex with a density of less than 25 kg / m 3 should not be used - such material will be porous, loose and short-lived.

Advantages of extruded polystyrene foam

Penoplex is resistant to mechanical stress and moisture, which makes it a higher price than foam plastic, but this material also has low vapor permeability.

In turn, penoplex has two improved varieties - "Technoplex" and "Polyspen", which differ in the values ​​​​of strength characteristics and vapor permeability.

"Technoplex" and "Polyspen"

For use in residential premises, both types are used, but with the marking "35".

PVC foam - a closed-cell material based on polyvinyl chloride, produced by pressing and having the best vapor permeability in the group of solid polymer insulation. In terms of strength, PVC foam is superior to foam plastic, which allows it to be used as a structural material, but does not create difficulties when processed with a manual or mechanical tool.

Polyfoam PVC-1

Petrol and oil resistance, low water absorption (less than 4%), a wide operating temperature range (from -60 to +60 0 C), self-extinguishing ability and high biostability, combined with the previously listed advantages, cause the high cost of PVC foam, which hinders popularity. In addition, this self-extinguishing insulator, surrounded by a flame, still burns, moreover, with suffocating smoke - hydrogen chloride released during combustion, combining with moisture, forms hydrochloric acid.

Ways of external thermal protection of a wooden house

Wooden buildings are insulated in two ways:

• under the "wet" facade;
• under a hinged (ventilated) facade.

The choice of method for insulating wooden walls from the outside depends on the section of the crowns (log or timber) and the technology of subsequent external wall cladding.

"Wet" facade they call the decoration of insulated walls by applying building and decorative solutions to the insulation, in which no gap is provided between the thermal protection layer and the finishing cladding. With this method, the thermal protection shell turns out to be loaded with plaster and decorative coatings, so it is attached to the wall by gluing over the entire area. The base for such fixation of the insulator must be even, therefore, under the “wet” facade, houses made of beams are insulated.

Ventilated facade implies the presence of an air gap between the outer cladding and the insulation layer, which is achieved by installing a frame system on the wall, consisting of a batten, a counter-batten and fasteners. In this case, the load from the exterior finish is carried by the frame, which can be mounted on a wall of any profile.

Frames for a ventilated facade - wooden and metal

Important! With any method of external insulation of wooden walls, plastic fungi with steel screw-in cores are used to fasten thermal protection.

Insulation device for a "wet" facade

Laying insulation on a wooden base for this type of exterior finish differs from a similar operation on a stone wall only in the technology of preparing the base and fasteners.

To perform the work, a period of stable dry weather is selected.

First of all, the walls are cleaned of dirt, dust, moss and inspected for damage by woodworms.

Cleaning the crowns with a power tool with an abrasive nozzle

Important! If the wood has traces of the presence of a grinder beetle, it is impossible to insulate the house - the inaccessibility of structures will accelerate their destruction due to the impossibility of performing periodic pest control.

The cleaned bases are covered with an antiseptic twice with an interval of a day, this is especially carefully done along the lower crowns, corners and ends of the logs.

After one or two days of drying the walls, the cracks in the logs, the gaps between the crowns are tightly caulked and filled with sealant.

Cracks in logs and their repair

Stone wool mats are glued tightly butt to each other on the walls with an elastic composition for wood and fastened to the base with dowels with steel rods. The effective thickness of the insulation should be at least 10-15 cm.

Then a thin layer of cement leveling mixture is applied over the insulation with a spatula. A reinforcing fiberglass mesh is glued onto the hardened shell, followed by a primer applied with a brush.

On top of the dried primer, plastering and finishing painting is performed.

Important! The use of leveling mortars and acrylic-based paints on wooden walls is not compatible with the high vapor permeability of wood.

Due to the dynamism of the surface of wooden bases, a “wet” facade is not always the best solution for insulating a wooden house, since the plaster layer is a fairly static, rigid shell.

Thermal insulation device for a ventilated facade

A vertical crate of wooden bars with a cross section equal to the thickness of the insulation is attached to the dry walls treated with an antiseptic. The step of the bars is 3-4 cm less than the width of the insulation - this will allow you to lay the mats tightly, against each other.

Inner row of battens

On top of the bars, after laying the thermal protection in the niches between them, a windproof vapor-permeable membrane is fixed with a stapler - placing the strips horizontally, with the porous surface inward, gluing the seams with adhesive tape. Then, a counter-lattice is arranged along the film - a frame of a ventilating gap made of vertical wooden bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm, superimposed on the lower slats and attached to them with self-tapping screws. The resulting structure of vertical ties is the basis for the installation of finishing sheathing - vinyl siding, lining, block house, etc.

The outer row of lathing bars and clapboard cladding of a wooden house

Watching this video will add clarity to the idea of ​​\u200b\u200binsulating a wooden house:

In the same way, but after glazing, you can perform thermal insulation of the wooden walls of the terrace or veranda, turning them into a cozy mound in winter.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside

Given that the thermal protection layer on wooden bases should be 10-15 cm, the total loss of useful housing volume after insulation from the inside will be significant. Therefore, in the topic of internal thermal protection, it is more expedient to consider the better to sheathe inside the house not wooden walls, and concrete floors between floors and above the basement, as well as the floor in the basement.

It is much easier to heat-insulate the plates from the floor side than to mount the insulator on the ceiling of the room below. But the floor insulation, in order to withstand mechanical loads, must be sufficiently solid or equipped with a reinforced concrete screed on top. And here the best option for a heat-shielding material will no longer be mineral wool, but extruded foam.

On the cleaned and leveled floor, waterproofing is arranged, on top of which foam sheets fitted to the size are laid end-to-end. The strength of this material allows you to limit yourself to the subsequent installation of a leveling screed 3 cm thick, on which ceramic tiles or other finishing floor cladding is then placed.

Having insulated the floors of the basement, the first and second floors, as well as the attic floor, the task of insulating wooden housing from the inside will be almost completed, since window blocks and double-glazed windows also play an important role in reducing heat loss.

Conclusion

External thermal insulation of a wooden house is not a whim and not a tribute to fashion. Done correctly, it will not give you a reason to regret the costs - a significant increase in the durability of housing from expensive natural material is worth it.

The main essence of the article

1. Wood is a natural building material, which, among other things, has thermal insulation properties, which is why wooden construction is still popular today.
2. In order to extend the life of log houses and slow down the loss of their unique qualities by wood, wood structures must be insulated. The best way to insulate housing made of wood is its thermal protection from the outside, and the best material is basalt wool. Foam plastics for arranging wood structures are not suitable, but are in demand for external thermal insulation of plinths and internal flooring.
3. “Wet” and ventilated facades are two structures used today that provide thermal protection for wooden walls, but the second version is more “sharpened” for the physical characteristics of wood.
4. Under the insulation of wooden houses from the inside, one should understand the thermal insulation of concrete slabs of interfloor ceilings.

Content:

Recently, people lack natural, "clean" materials, products, etc. Many buyers today prefer houses made from natural building materials. All the advantages of a private house built of timber are quite understandable, but one should not forget that the insulation of a wooden house requires a special approach.

A wooden house can be insulated with ecowool both outside and inside. Although both options are not excluded at the same time. External insulation is considered the most effective, and internal insulation reduces the interior space of the home.

How to insulate: outside or inside?

Before proceeding with ecowool insulation, it is necessary to determine the type of installation.

It is better to insulate a house made of logs from the inside, then the outer walls will delight with their natural look. At the wall of log cabins, on which the insulation is installed, the temperature is low, so the positive characteristics deteriorate slightly. In addition, a beam insulated from the inside leads to a violation of the natural evaporation of moisture and, as a result, the occurrence of condensate between the insulation and the wall. Therefore, the internal thermal insulation of the walls has its drawbacks.

External thermal insulation of walls implies a uniform distribution of heat over the entire surface of the wall. Proper installation of insulating materials that prevent water evaporation from the inside of the room ensures a normal humidity regime. As a rule, light "breathable" materials are installed outside.

In order for a wall insulated from the outside to always retain sufficient thermal insulation properties, it is necessary to reliably protect thermal insulation materials from the effects of snow and rain. As for the negative side, it is also present.

The process of home insulation is a rather hard work, requiring not only aesthetic performance, but also the correct selection of materials. Of course, it is better to entrust this difficult task to professionals, but there is an opportunity to cope on your own.

Materials for insulation

Home insulation can be done in a variety of ways. For example, walls made of timber are often insulated using external cladding with small slabs, concrete or ceramic stones, and small blocks. Thermal insulation material is laid between the layers. In addition, do not forget about the ventilated air gap, which will help remove excess moisture from the wood.

Ecowool

If the walls are made of wood, as a rule, ecowool is used. This material for thermal insulation is characterized by a high coefficient of heat saving and a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity.

This insulation better withstands high temperatures, promotes the removal of moisture and is able to withstand all sorts of troubles in the form of fungus, mold and insects. In addition, ecowool does not contain toxic substances in its composition.

mineral wool

Stone and mineral ecowool is an excellent material for thermal insulation of a house. The thicker the mats, the easier they are to install and the longer they last. Loose mats often slide off the frame and disintegrate, and dust that is harmful to the health of the occupants is formed. It is not recommended to save on high-quality material for home insulation.

In addition to ecowool, you will need two layers of film - waterproofing, which will protect the log house from moisture and hydro-windproof, which protects the insulation itself from moisture. Both layers are required.

Wall insulation with expanded clay is used quite often, since the material is originally natural and environmentally friendly.

House insulation with sawdust

Another fairly popular material (after ecowool) for insulating wooden walls and floors is sawdust. Wall insulation with sawdust has been used for a long time and to this day, despite the variety of modern heaters. This method has many advantages, the first of which is environmental friendliness (the material can be used without fear for the health of residents), and low cost (sawdust can be purchased for a nominal fee or completely free).

As for the minuses, in principle there are none, except for the inconvenience when using this bulk material. Although you can use sawdust slabs.

Floor insulation with sawdust requires certain knowledge. Before use, they must be applied with an antiseptic, dried thoroughly and mixed with slaked lime, which will protect the material from rodents.

Advice! For effective insulation, the thickness of the sawdust layer should be at least 25 cm so that over time the sawdust does not settle and lose its heat-saving properties, it is necessary to prepare a mixture of sawdust (80%), gypsum and lime. To ensure the rigidity and strength of the wall, gypsum can be replaced with cement.

So, the prepared mixture must be doused with boric acid, add 10 liters of water and check for moisture. If the lump of the mixture does not crumble in your hand, then the insulation is ready. Next, the sawdust must be left for a while. After 2 weeks, check for voids. If there is a void, fill it with an additional portion of sawdust.

In general, there are many ways to insulate using sawdust. In sawdust, you can add not only cement, but also clay, water, newsprint. The solution can be made in the form of plaster and cover the walls with it. It is worth noting that not only the walls and floor, but also the ceiling are insulated with sawdust. The mixture is prepared similarly to the above method with the addition of copper sulfate.

An important part is the treatment with an antiseptic, which will prevent the occurrence of harmful microorganisms.

Insulation of the ceiling occurs in several stages:

• At the first stage, it is necessary to dry the sawdust (it is better if it is large chips). It is categorically impossible to use fresh shavings for insulation.
• Next, clay will be needed, which should be soaked with water and left for a while.
• After that, add sawdust to the softened clay and mix. The density of the solution should be medium.
• We cover the surface with plastic wrap and spread the mixture.
• After drying, the surface may crack a little, but this does not matter. Cracks can be filled with ordinary clay or the same solution.

Also, sawdust can be used with cement and copper sulfate. Such a mixture is also possible for warming a wooden private house. Before laying a mixture of cement and wood shavings, polyethylene should be laid on the surface. While the solution will harden, you should not speed up the process in any way.

Vapor barrier of wooden walls

How to start warming a wooden house? Of course with the preparation of a vapor barrier layer. In the first year of operation of a private wooden dwelling, a change in indoor humidity is observed. As a result, the tree shrinks and cracks and deformation of the logs are possible.

This happens within the first five years from the start of operation. This feature is especially worth paying attention to people whose house is built from sawn timber or hand-cut logs.

This is less relevant for a dwelling made of profiled timber and rounded logs. During machining, a high degree of tightness is guaranteed. Roofing material or polyethylene is suitable for vapor barrier. Sometimes aluminum foil is also used.

External insulation

Warming the walls of a wooden house is not an easy task. For competent work on this issue, you need to know the technology.

• Two layers of antiseptic are applied to the walls. Drying will take a couple of days.
• To insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, then a film with a vapor barrier coating is attached to the walls.
• A vertical crate of bars is mounted on top of the film, the height of the bars should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
• Next, mineral wool is laid.

Work must be done in protective clothing. If necessary, mats can be cut with a regular knife. Temporary lining may be needed if the mats do not hold well inside the wooden structure.

Finally, the mats are fixed with anchor nails. If necessary, several layers of thermal insulation can be made, while the next layer should cover the joints of the previous one.

The next step is a ventilated frame made of bars. They are attached to the lower frame with self-tapping screws.

The technology of fastening the skin is better described by the manufacturer than anyone else. Here the choice is wide, the owner of a private house can choose a blockhouse, an imitation of a bar or, for example, a metal profile. It is important that during the work there are no gaps through which moisture can penetrate.

In order for the thermal insulation of the house to be completely finished, it is possible to additionally insulate the foundation. This can be done using foam, polyurethane foam or polystyrene. On top of the insulation layer, facing with brick or decorative stone is possible.

Video: Wall insulation outside

Insulation of the house from the inside

Warming the walls of the house from the inside is also quite popular.

• A wooden beam is mounted on the load-bearing walls. Sometimes a metal profile is also used (if moisture-resistant drywall is used in the future).
• The wooden beam must correspond to the height of the interior space. There should be one post in each corner. When insulating indoors, wood, i.e. the surface of the walls should be treated with a special liquid that will prevent the processes of burning and decay.
• Further, after installing the wooden frame, mineral wool is used. The insulation is cut to the height of the wall, the width should be slightly wider than the distance between the wooden bars.
• Ecowool is fixed inside the bars with the help of anchors. As a facing material for the interior of the room, you can use lining or other decorative material.

From the proposed video you will learn the expert's opinion on the process of insulation, the selection of materials for insulation, as well as the theoretical basis of heat-saving processes. Click "play" and watch, it will be interesting.

Video: Dew point or we warm the house wisely

Statistics show that when building wooden houses, the proper standard for thermal protection of houses is often ignored. Therefore, as a rule, when building a private house from logs or timber, it should be borne in mind that additional thermal insulation will be needed.

Various materials can be used as cladding - siding, lining or cement - particle board. Also, with financial opportunities, you can create an imitation of a bar or a block house.