A simple brick oven with your own hands. How to make a small brick oven with your own hands. The most important principle

The stove brings coziness and comfort, so rarely does a private house do without it. The services of professional stove-makers are quite expensive and not everyone can afford. We will tell you how to properly build a brick oven.

Types of furnaces - classification depending on the parameters

Laying stoves is not an easy task, but anyone with knowledge and patience can handle it. When choosing a furnace, take into account the parameters by which they are classified. First of all, pay attention to its purpose. Heating stoves are intended only for heating, they can accumulate heat and give it away for a long time. To do this, the outer walls are laid out in half a brick, or even a whole. They slowly warm up and slowly cool down, heat up slightly, massive, high consumption of bricks. They also arrange heating furnaces for rapid heating, which are less massive, give off heat well, but cool quickly.

The most common type in Russia is heating and cooking stoves. They will not only heat the room, but also cook food. In addition to a cast-iron stove, they almost always have an oven. In addition, they can be built in: a water heating boiler, a container for heating water, niches for drying, benches. A Russian oven from this type has a chamber for baking bread and pies. They differ from ordinary stoves in high efficiency, high heat capacity, keep heat for a long time, stable thrust.

For greater heat transfer, a heating shield is connected to ordinary kitchen stoves. This is the cheapest construction in terms of material costs and labor: it will take up to 200 bricks to heat a small room. A very good option for small cottages. The stove, in addition to the heating shield, can be equipped with an oven, a water heating boiler, and a tank for heating water.

Firebox - heat transfer and fuel affect the device

The simplest device is for a heating stove, which has two parts: a firebox and smoke turns. Other types of ovens contain additional devices. The main part of any furnace is the firebox. Certain requirements are imposed on it, in particular, it must be of sufficient size: for one bookmark to contain almost all the fuel. Air must be supplied in the required volume, a high temperature must be constantly maintained.

With insufficient dimensions of the firebox, low heat transfer is observed. The width depends on the required heat transfer: up to 1 thousand. kcal - 12 cm, up to 3 thousand - 27 cm, if more - up to 50 cm. For convenience, the dimensions of the firebox are taken as multiples of a brick. The length is made from 26 cm to 51 cm, the longest is intended for firewood. Fuel used affects height: 6–15 rows (42–100 cm). The grate is laid a row or two below the door so that the coals do not fall out. Often the rear is tilted higher than the front for better combustion.

Fireboxes: a - wood-burning; b - peat; c - coal.

A fireclay brick is used for the firebox, with which it is laid out or lined from the inside. The total wall thickness is not less than ⅟ 2 bricks. The firebox, made in the form of a vault, improves the quality of combustion. All types of fuel burn well in a wood-burning firebox. For coal, reinforced grates 4 cm thick and good blowing are required, for which the dimensions of the grate are equal to the length of the ash pan under the firebox.

Smoke circulation - advantages and disadvantages of different systems

The smoke circulation system increases efficiency - gases, when moving from the firebox through channels and chambers, give off heat to the walls. It is important to observe the ratio between the volume of the firebox and the inner surface of the smoke circuits. With an excess of gas duct area, the temperature drops so much that condensate appears. A small internal area reduces efficiency - hot gases fly into the pipe.

Heat is best absorbed when the ratio of the areas of the outer walls of the stove, which give off heat, and the inner part of the smoke circulations is 1:3.

The cross section, number and location of the smoke circuits determine their internal area. It is better to fold the channels in multiples of the size of the brick, they should ensure the free passage of gases. The cross section must correspond to the thermal performance of the furnace: it smokes with an insufficient cross section and does not heat up well with an excessive one. A cross section of 170–250 cm 2 is used for furnace heat transfer of 3 thousand kcal or less, from 3 to 5 thousand kcal - up to 300 cm 2.

Smoke circuits can have channels (one or more) and be channelless.

Various types of smoke circulation: a - multi-turn vertical; b - multi-turn horizontal; c - single-turn vertical; d - multichannel single-turn; d - channelless.

As part of a single-turn system, there is one lifting channel and the same or several parallel lowering ones. Parallel channels have low resistance to gases, the furnace array warms up more evenly. The single-turn system has a disadvantage, which manifests itself in a much greater heating of the upper part than the lower one. In small furnaces, it is compensated by significant heating of the firebox walls. For large furnaces, a scheme is used in which hot gases go through the channels from below, thus ensuring normal heating of the room.

A multi-turn system consists of successive vertical or horizontal channels. The first disadvantage of such a system is that the gases have to experience considerable resistance in numerous turns. The second disadvantage is the strikingly unequal heating of the walls of the first and last channels, which often causes cracking of the masonry. Vertical channels provide good heat transfer, horizontal - traction, which helps out with a pipe of insufficient height.

Fire safety requires that the top of the furnace floor be 40 cm from the ceiling of combustible materials. The section of the chimney from the furnace to cutting in the ceiling is called the neck, its smallest height is three rows of bricks. The neck is a place for installing valves or views that are closed at the end of combustion. If you install such devices below, a lot of heat is lost. Gases are thrown out through the chimney, the device of which will be described below.

The choice of furnace - savings, heat dissipation, simplicity and design

Determining the design of the furnace, take into account its ability to meet certain requirements. An important role is played by profitability, when low fuel consumption provides an acceptable room temperature. Few people want to heat the stove even twice a day, so preference is given to designs that evenly give off heat for 24 hours. These include ovens that warm up well in the lower part.

The maximum surface temperature should not exceed 95°, otherwise a burning smell will be felt. Simplicity of design, compliance with fire safety requirements also play an important role. And finally, the design of the stove should match the overall aesthetic appearance of the room.

But the most important requirement for any stove is the ability to heat all rooms. To do this, heat losses are determined based on the volume, size of windows and doors, and the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Calculations show that each m 3 of a room with brick walls at an average winter temperature of -25 ° loses 60 kcal / h. One square meter of the furnace is capable of delivering 500 kcal / h.

When calculating, we first determine the heat loss of the house. Suppose you have an ordinary brick cottage 7 × 9 with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. There are 4 separate rooms in total, which are planned to be heated by one stove installed in the middle of the room. First, we determine the cubic capacity: 7 × 9 × 2.5 = 157.5. We multiply by the heat loss of one cubic meter. meters: 157.5 × 60 = 9450. This means that a furnace with a heat output of 1000 kcal / h is needed, some reserve always needs to be made. A simpler calculation is based on the fact that one square meter of the floor area occupied by the stove heats 30–35 m 2 of the room.

Accommodation - how to determine the best location

The location of the furnace is chosen by everyone at their own discretion, but, nevertheless, general recommendations should be taken into account. First of all, the stove in the house should give maximum heat. If it is planned to heat one room, the stove is installed at a small distance from the wall, at least 15 cm, but it can also be placed close to the walls. Then two of the four sides will give up heat energy. In diagrams a, b, you can see the layout options with an air gap near the wall, which is also called a retreat.

If the stove design will heat two adjacent rooms, then the most effective option is when to build it in a partition (the same figure, c). Heating is also possible for three adjacent rooms, as in the figure, Mr. The stove is also located in the common room for all three rooms. In one room there is one side of the stove, the rest have two. Figures e, e show options when the firebox is located on the veranda or in the back room. This is a good option for small houses.

In a dwelling of four rooms, it is recommended to install the stove at the junction of two internal partitions, so that one wall of the heating device goes into each of the rooms. This option provides an opportunity to heat from the kitchen, living room, veranda, without bringing garbage into the bedroom. Rough with a bench is great for giving with several rooms. The lounger is taken out to any room that the owner prefers.

Foundation device - a reliable foundation for the furnace

After determining the design and choosing a location, you can begin to bring the project to life. We start with the foundation, which is best done at the same time as the foundation of the building. In the case of building a furnace in an already erected house, we disassemble the floor and fill it. Putting even the smallest and lightest oven on a wooden floor does not make sense. In just a few years, even the thickest boards and logs begin to deteriorate, sag, and the stove will have to be rebuilt.

The size of the foundation is made larger than the dimensions of the furnace by 30 cm in all directions.

It is imperative to make a foundation for a brick oven. It should not come into contact with the foundation of the walls, between them we provide a gap of at least 5 cm. The space between the two foundations is filled with heat-insulating material. Separate foundations will provide independent settling of the walls of the building and the furnace. If you connect both foundations, this often leads to a skew.

To reduce the heat from the furnace to the ground, we lay thermal insulation on top of the concrete. It can be as follows: first, a plate of mineral fiber or basalt insulation, then a choice of foil, tin. From above, again, a heater, on it - sheet metal. We soak the felt in clay milk and crown it with a layer of insulation. When it dries, we start laying. Such reliable thermal insulation will protect against heat loss even in the most severe conditions.

Clay mortar for masonry - cooking secrets

Brick ovens are laid out on a clay-sand mortar. Clay has unique properties, turning into stone after exposure to fire, perfectly adheres to brick. To achieve maximum qualities from it, the solution should be prepared from pre-prepared ingredients with an optimal ratio.

First, we remove impurities from the clay. Grind and place in an oblong container, concentrating only at one end. Raise the part of the container where the clay is located, pour a little water from below. Gradually take the clay with a spatula and mix with water until a homogeneous paste-like substance is formed. We transfer it to another dish until the required volume of solution is reached.

We soak the purchased dry clay in a wide and deep bowl. Fall asleep 10–20 cm, cover completely with water. After a day, stir, if necessary, add water and leave again for a day. When a paste-like mixture is obtained, the furnace solution is considered ready. For strength, add a little salt to the solution: up to 250 g per bucket. The mass should slide off the trowel without a trace. Water should not appear on the surface of the solution; if this happens, we add washed sand to the solution.

For 50 pieces of brick laid flat, you will need a bucket of mortar with a joint thickness of 3–5 mm.

The solution must be of the required plasticity and fat content. To determine the quality of the solution, we take clay in five identical portions. In four, we add a different amount of sand: 0.25, 0.5, 1, 1.5, and leave the fifth without adding sand. We knead the solution from each part, make pancakes out of them and dry them. We define quality by touch and appearance. If the pancake crumbles, there is an excess of sand in it, in a cracked pancake there is not enough of it. If the sample does not crack and is homogeneous, it has the optimal ratio of its constituent parts. It is in this proportion that we prepare the solution.

There are many secrets in laying brick ovens with your own hands that only experienced craftsmen know and unknown to beginners. First of all, it concerns the choice of bricks. Ceramic bricks of a brand not lower than M-250 are used, which are more expensive than conventional M-100, M-150, but more homogeneous, able to withstand constant heating and cooling. You can make decorative elements from it, ordinary brick is of little use for this.

The inner walls of the firebox are laid out with refractory bricks, which can withstand 1200 °. But behind it is a ceramic brick that can only withstand 650 °. With strong heating of the firebox, the temperature is transferred to it, reducing the service life. To prolong the life of red brick in the firebox, it is isolated from refractory basalt with 5 mm cardboard.

It takes a lot of time to control the solution on the facing row. To make the work go faster, masking tape is glued to the front of the brick, which is then removed. The facing row comes out nice and neat. Experienced stove-makers are advised not to bother with the preparation of a clay-sand mortar, but to buy a ready-made sand mixture for stoves. It is packaged in 5, 10 and 25 kg.

It is more convenient to lay out any jumper, overheating and other elements if you use a metal corner. It is laid out from the inside, pressing the brick on both sides. The length of the corner should not exceed 0.8 m, otherwise it may sag from heating. Avoid using corners on the front side. In addition to being ugly, there is a high probability of getting burned if you accidentally touch it. Instead of corners on the front side, 16 mm threaded studs are used, which fix the front trim.

You can extend the life of the furnace if you hide all the fittings in grooves with a depth equal to the thickness of the products.

Each stove maker strives to lay out a row with a perfectly even seam, but not everyone succeeds. There is a simple trick: 8 mm metal rods are laid on each row, preferably rectangular ones. Mortar is laid between two bars, then bricks. When the last brick is laid, the rods are removed. Bricks must not be upset, otherwise the masonry will go in waves. The rods are lubricated with machine oil before use to make it easier to remove from the masonry. Their length should not exceed 1 m, otherwise the masonry will be damaged when they are pulled out.

Chimney - how to ensure safety and good draft

A pipe is usually installed on the stove in the house, which consists of a neck, fluff at the ceiling, a riser in the attic, an otter at the roof and a head. The fluff protects the wooden products of the ceiling and roof from heating and possible fire during the fire. In these places, the pipe is made thickened, gradually letting in bricks. Metal can be used to support the brick rows, but they should not overlap the inside of the chimney.

In the place where the riser passes through the roof, an otter is made, which will prevent rain and snow from entering the attic through the cracks. They are covered with roofing steel - a collar, the ends of which are launched under the ledges of the otter. Crowns the chimney head. Its height is determined by its location on the roof. In the middle of the ridge and at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from it, it should protrude 0.5 m above the ridge. At a distance of up to 3 m from the ridge, the top of the head is leveled with the ridge. At a greater distance, the height should be ensured at an angle of no more than 10 ° with respect to the ridge.

The chimney is designed to provide good draft. It rises with an increase in the temperature of the outgoing gases, but it is not economically feasible to do so, so the pipe is driven out to the required height, which should be 5–6 m from the grate to the top of the head. The plastered inner surface also increases traction, the absence of cracks in the brickwork. To eliminate the influence of wind that can interfere with traction, a deflector is installed on the head.

Swede - the best option for a heating and cooking stove

The design is checked up by centuries, small-sized and economical. With dimensions of 880 × 1010 mm and a height of 2170 mm, it can heat more than 30 m 2. Typically, a firebox with a stove is located in the kitchen, and the back wall of the stove goes into the living room. It works great on wood, coal and briquettes. In summer, it is recommended to heat with small portions of large coal or pellets, firewood burns too quickly in hot weather. Coal consumption in the heating season is 1.5 tons.

For the construction we stock up:

• brick M-150 - 570 pieces;
• 200 kg dry mortar;
• 1.7 m of steel corner 40 × 40;
• 0.65 m of steel strip 5×50;
• roofing iron for installation in front of the firebox;
• flat slate to cover the cooking chamber.

You will need standard appliances for the stove: a grate, a firebox door, a blower, a cast-iron stove with burners, latches - 2, cleaning - 3. The order of the Swedish stove with a hob is presented below.

An important structural element is the oven, which plays the role of an automatic switch between summer and winter operation. It works as an aerodynamic barrier to the gases leaving the firebox. Gases linger in it, completely burning under the hob. They come out hot into the smoke circulation channels, they warm up the furnace well. For this reason, the wall farthest from the furnace is sometimes made double and a heat exchanger with a hot water tank is placed in it.

Excessive heating of the hob is not observed, hot air from the niche goes into the room. In summer, the kitchen, with the right firebox, heats up no more than from a gas stove. Fuel in small quantities in the summer heats up the hob well, as the gases are retained by the oven. The burner on the left heats up more, on the right - less, but enough for cooking.

Dutch woman - a small-sized furnace device with high heat transfer

This is a unique simple structure of colossal efficiency. Compared to the classic Russian stove, it has more modest dimensions and a smaller wall thickness, which contributes to rapid heating. It attracts even the owners of stylish modern cottages with its grace and efficiency. When laying a Dutch oven, any variations are possible, which will not adversely affect its effectiveness.

This is a purely heating stove, but, if desired, it can be equipped with a hob. The smallest structure is 0.5 × 0.5 m, the most massive one will need only 650 bricks, including 200 refractory ones. The main material is a brick of any quality, which does not affect its stability and functionality. But for the firebox, it is imperative to use refractory bricks. Warms up quickly, cools down slowly, fuel is consumed sparingly. The Dutchwoman is able to heat up to 70 m 2.

As can be seen from the scheme, the Dutch oven does not have a grate, the fuel is loaded into the furnace, the combustion intensity is low. Efficiency is achieved through a special device for smoke circulation. The gases from the firebox rise through the first channel and return through the second channel. There they heat up again and go to the third channel. In the fourth and fifth channels, the same principle is repeated, and only through the sixth channel the gases go into the chimney.

What is a brick oven in a country house? This is an opportunity to heat the house all winter long without using either gas or electricity. Moreover, the feeling of comfort that comes from the stove is hard to confuse with anything. There is nothing better than leaning against its hot wall at the end of the day, enjoying the warmth.

Modern construction technologies allow you to fold the stove in such a way that one good kindling will last you until the morning. In addition, a properly created design retains internal heat for 10-12 hours.

If you keep the fire in the stove a little bit, then you can heat it 24 hours a day with minimal wood consumption. In addition, it is not necessary to put firewood in the firebox. You can use special charcoal. But for this, the stove must be folded in a special way. Using a refractory stone that can withstand high temperatures.

It is also worth noting that furnaces can have many modifications. For example, the structure can be folded in such a way that a fireplace will also be attached to the stove. It will not take up much space, but will give even more warmth and comfort to the house. In addition, one pipe is quite enough to extract smoke from two fireboxes.

Types of ovens

The history of the evolution of furnace structures goes back many centuries. It is not surprising that putting together a heat-efficient and reliable stove is a real art. But with proper preparation and diligence, you can do it yourself, here is a good video instruction:

The oven can be folded using a variety of methods. At the same time, there are a number of parameters that determine the specifics of the future stove:

1. Purpose.
2. The temperature to which the walls must be heated.
3. The time required to heat the walls and the amount of fuel needed for this.
4. The design of the chimney.
5. heat transfer level.
6. Scheme of the movement of gases in the channels.
7. The form.
8. Material for finishing the outer walls.
9. Main material.

Based on all these parameters, you will fold the stove of your dreams. The main thing at the initial stage is to draw up a drawing, with detailed diagrams. In the project, you need to describe in detail all the features of the future design. But before that, you need to decide what kind of stove you need.

Folding the heating stove is the easiest. It performs the main function - it gives warmth to people and the house. Such designs do not carry any additional functionality, but are reliable and easy to use, for which they have won many sympathies among summer residents.

Naturally, all heating furnaces are classified according to heat transfer, the time required for kindling and the degree of heating of the walls. It is on these parameters that you need to rely first of all, before folding the oven with your own hands.

If you expect to get a stove with moderate heat, you can fold it into one brick. Such furnaces heat up slowly and also cool down slowly. The average temperature of the walls is about 60 degrees.

Heating stoves cannot be called a refinement of architectural thought. But the massive design and simple forms create a sense of monumentality. In addition, if you skillfully lay down a brick in this stove, it can become an excellent element of decor.

Moreover, do not forget about the external decoration. After you fold the stove, you can plaster it and put tiles on top. Firstly, it will protect the structure from destruction, and secondly, it will give it a beautiful and aesthetic appearance.

Important ! Before you fold a brick heating stove with your own hands, keep in mind that it requires an extremely large amount of material.

Typical representatives of the family of heating furnaces include such designs as:

• "Dutch",
• OPT-3,
• triangular oven,
• Grum Grizhimailo oven,
• OTP-11
• Rectangular heating,
• T-shaped.

These ovens are rarely very popular. The fact is that in order to put them together it takes a lot of time and materials, and the functionality turns out to be poor as a result.

Very often, in country houses, the owners decide to lay down the heating and cooking stove. This structure has a lot of advantages in comparison with a conventional stove. On it, without any problems and even with comfort, you can cook food using pine, birch or yew firewood.

Important ! About 90% of orders from stove-makers are for heating and cooking structures.

The main element of such a stove is a hob, which is made of cast iron. The oven is not built in everywhere, since in order to fold it, you need to show considerable skill. The most advanced designs have the following additional features:

• chamber for baking bread,
• couch,
• niche for drying firewood,
• water heating boiler.

In fact, the number of additional functions depends solely on your capabilities and desires. In fact, a real multifunctional combine can be folded from a simple stove, which will become the main decoration of the kitchen. It's not even worth talking about the economy. In addition, food made on such burners always tastes better.

Attention ! The level of efficiency in heating and cooking structures reaches 65%. The heat capacity is about 4 kW.

Such ovens are able to keep heat for a long time. Not only that, they provide powerful traction. The main thing is to put everything together correctly so that the smoke goes directly into the pipe, and not into the room. The most common designs:

• "Swede",
• Volkov oven,
• "Housekeeper",
• "Teplushka",
• "Baby".

As you can see, there is a huge variety of heating and cooking stoves on which you can cook something delicious without any problems and for the benefit of the family budget.

Designs with heating shields are a cheap solution that includes all the functionality necessary for giving. To fold such a structure, you need a minimum of materials and physical labor. Enough 175 bricks for a full-fledged masonry.

Despite the minimal construction costs, the efficiency of the furnace is more than high. This type of stove is very popular among elderly summer residents because of its convenience and low cost.

To the side are the stoves for the bath. Usually these are simple heaters, not distinguished by any architectural delights. Their main role is to heat the water in the bath and effectively raise the temperature. Such heating furnaces can store heat for two days.

Advice ! The main advantage of heaters is the ability to fit any room.

Of course, the classification of furnaces is not limited to these types. In fact, there are a huge number of them, which are classified according to many parameters. The most popular systems have just been described.

What kind of brick is better to lay down the oven

It is necessary to distinguish ordinary heat-resistant brick from the stove. Firstly, the latter can withstand temperatures above 1000 degrees. Secondly, if it is sharply cooled, cracks do not form in the structure.

For the construction of stoves, four types of stove bricks are used:

1. Quartz. This brick is the result of firing sand and clay.
2. Carbon - made up of graphite.
3. Fireclay. Best for fireplace. But you can not discount its unique thermal insulation qualities. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees. At the same time, it does not crack and does not lose its qualities. The only negative is the yellowish tint.
4. The main one is used when you need to fold a metallurgical furnace.

In fact, there are no strict rules regarding the choice of materials for masonry during construction. Nevertheless, there are some recommendations that are best followed, the main one concerns fireclay bricks. It must be placed in the hottest places, namely in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe firebox and chimney. For all other zones, the grade must be at least M-200.

Attention ! The best brick for the stove is the M-500 brand.

We make a stove with our own hands

Location selection

To fold a good heating structure, you need to choose the right place. The following standards must be taken into account:

1. From the smoke channel to the wooden structures must be more than 37 cm.
2. The minimum distance of the pipe from the ridge is one and a half meters. The height above the ridge is half a meter.
3. If it is 1.5-3 meters from the pipe to the ridge, it can be placed flush with it.

It is best to fold the stove in the middle of the house. This will ensure even distribution of heat and ease of use.

Materials and tools

In addition to brick, you will also need a number of other materials to fold the stove. These include:

• clay,
• sand,
• fittings.

These are the main materials without taking into account the components, but you still need to take care of the vent doors, blower, firebox, and so on.

To put together a good stove, you need to knead the right solution. It is best to use special refractory clay, in extreme cases, you can use red. Grains of sand should be no more than 1 mm. The optimal ratio is achieved empirically. Usually it is 1 to 1 or 1 to 2. Plus 25 percent of the water of the total volume of clay.

Metal objects play a fundamental role in the construction of the furnace. To put together a decent structure, you need doors and half-doors, grates, cast-iron dampers, latches and views. All these elements, if necessary, can be made by hand, but you will need to purchase iron sheets.

Of course, without good tools, folding the oven will not work, you will need:

• pick hammer specially for the furnace,
• Master OK,
• ruler-rule,
• wash brush,
• roulette,
• plumb line,
• level.

With this simple toolkit, you can fold any oven.

The process of building a stove

For the foundation, a foundation pit is dug, backfilling and a reinforced frame are made. The resulting structure is poured with concrete. Before you fold the stove, make sure you have brick patterns in front of your eyes.

When working, it is very important to keep order. Otherwise, it will not work to fold a high-quality oven. The slightest deviation in the design will lead to the fact that one of the channels will be blocked. The result is more than deplorable. Smoke instead of going outside through the chimney, will go into the room.

The first row is placed along the cord. Each next masonry is checked with a level. Corners are controlled by body kits. After the masonry is completed, furnace equipment is installed, for example, burners. The pipe is brought out at the very end. To find out in more detail, how to fold oven watch the video below:

Brick stoves for the home are often the only way to equip the heating of the house, in the country or in the cottage. In brick heating stoves, the maximum efficiency reaches 85%: this is a consequence of the fact that their design does not include "heat consumers" that take a lot of heat energy.

• Brick ovens for the home

Brick heating stoves are quite simply manufactured and operated. The reason for these qualities is a narrow scope - for space heating (they are not intended for cooking, etc.).

Brick ovens for the home are also sometimes called "Dutch".

Brick ovens for the home

In houses and cottages, "Dutch women" are most often used, in which the thickness of the walls is equal to half a brick. If you heat such stoves from one to two times during the day, you can easily provide comfortable temperature conditions in a medium-sized room.

Taking into account the dimensions of heating furnaces, they use two main methods of smoke circulation:

• in the "Dutch" of small size, where the firebox and the furnace itself have common walls, the location of the bell-type smoke channels is at the top;
• for large furnaces, a combined smoke circulation system is used, in which the location of the smoke channels is carried out from the sides of the firebox and on top of it.

Dutch stove for a corner house

Another type of heating stoves - "Dutch" corner type. Since they have an angular shape, these stoves are characterized by the fact that they take up less space, which allows you to significantly increase the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by installing the stove in a corner.

Corner brick ovens are often installed because it is not possible to make a rectangular foundation.
To heat a 2-storey house or cottage, they use two-tier brick heating stoves. On each floor, an autonomous stove is installed, which has its own firebox.

The structure of modern heating furnaces includes a grate. With the help of this solution, it became possible to deliver oxygen to the place of combustion of firewood, in the volumes that are necessary to ensure combustion. This is the reason that the combustion of fuel occurs at an intense pace, and with more uniformity. New smoke exhaust systems provide an opportunity to reduce the length of smoke channels. The smoke enters the stove chimney before being cooled down by the excess air.

The above has made it possible to make modern heating stoves more compact, reduce the time spent on the furnace, and also improve efficiency.

The scheme of laying a stove for a house is the first thing that a person who decides to equip heating with a stove in his home will need. In this material, we will consider what schemes for laying home brick ovens exist, what are their features and differences.

Laying a stone stove can be done in the following ways:

• 1. undercut;
• 2. with empty seams;

When arranging the stove according to the first method, plastering the stove is not required, since all joints are filled with mortar. The wall thickness of the kiln determines the way the bricks are laid. The walls are laid out with a thickness of one brick, and half a brick. Sometimes, you can find masonry in 3.4 bricks.
For work on the arrangement of the furnace, it is imperative to use oven bricks. It is also called "red brick", full-bodied. Under no circumstances use bricks that were taken from any dismantled building, expanded clay blocks or slotted bricks.

Laying the first row is done simply with a brick, without using a mortar. The brick is leveled, the front wall is determined, the places where all the doors will be located. These operations can be called the last "estimate". When these actions are performed, the bricks lie down with the mortar.

After that, begin to lay the corners. The next stage, according to the advice of experts, is the arrangement of the contour of the entire stove. Using plumb lines, a twine is stretched from the ceiling to the corners of the stove. With the help of these vertical lines, you can easily navigate during the work.

Given the model of the stove you have chosen, you should determine the areas in which they will be located: a blower, a combustion chamber, an ash pan. The door under the blower is installed when the third row of bricks is laid out, after one row an ash pan is laid out.

After that, there is an arrangement of the firebox. Each door is attached with burnt wire. When you get to laying out the vault, you will need to cut the bricks. A calculation will be required to ensure a good docking of the bricks with each other. The laying of the vault begins after the second row of bricks is laid after the firebox door.

For lining the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Since the facing brick and masonry brick have different temperature characteristics, the installation of the lining to the furnace itself should not be rigid. During the installation of the chimney pipe, care should be taken to equip a special valve, the adjustment of which should be carried out smoothly and without difficulty.

Brick ovens for home - video instruction

For the device of stove heating of small country cottages or country houses, in order to save materials and money, it makes sense to choose projects of heating stoves made of bricks of small dimensions and simple in execution. Then, having acquired building materials in accordance with the project, you can get down to business on your own, having previously studied how the laying of stoves is done with your own hands.

Heating and cooking stove

What type of stove to choose?

At the very beginning, you need to decide what the design of the furnace will be in your home. To do this, you need to study the existing types of stoves for the home and choose the appropriate option for yourself from the proposed list:

• Dutch channel-type stoves and the like take up the least space, are the easiest to build and are undemanding to materials. They work more in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, the efficiency is low - 40%.
• The chamber-channel Swedish brick oven for the home is more efficient than the “Dutch”, its efficiency is up to 60%, it also takes up little space, but is somewhat more difficult to implement. In addition, building materials should be selected very carefully.
• Russian stoves are the most efficient, their efficiency reaches 75%, but laying the stove is extremely difficult, it will not work without an experienced specialist.
• A heating and cooking stove with a built-in water heat exchanger is the simplest version of a heater. Its construction will take the least materials, and the simplicity of the design allows even a beginner to do all the work with their own hands, only a serious and scrupulous approach is needed.

Advice. If you have completely no experience in masonry work, then for self-construction it is better to choose a "Dutch" or a hob, the construction of stoves - "Swede" is somewhat more complicated and requires experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, it is not recommended to take it on yourself.

Next, you should understand where and how much space you are ready to allocate for construction, as well as the number of rooms heated by the stove. If the house is small, then the heat source can be placed in the wall between the rooms, so that each one warms up from the back or side wall of the brick oven. The figure shows examples of the placement of various heaters inside the building.

The first diagram on the left shows the placement of a stove for a brick house with a stove bench in the bedroom and heating of other adjacent rooms: living room, hallway and bathroom. The second diagram shows where you can put a heating and cooking stove with hot water for hot water. Between the two bedrooms it is planned to build a "Dutch" type heater with the output of the loading chamber to the living room. The third diagram shows an example of a country house, where the same stove heats the kitchen and bathroom, and there is a fireplace in the living room.

The principle by which the placement and construction of the furnace takes place is simple: direct heating from its walls should capture as many rooms as possible, and when this does not work out, it is better to use furnace schemes with a built-in water heating coil. In this case, the rest of the rooms will be heated by heating radiators.

masonry brick

In order for a do-it-yourself brick oven to work efficiently and durable, it is necessary to choose the appropriate building materials for its construction, in particular brick. Not only the strength and durability of the structure depends on this choice, but also its thermophysical properties that provide comfort in your home.

It is especially important to choose the right quality materials if you are planning to fold the Swede oven. For the "Dutch", the requirements for the quality of bricks and masonry mortar are not so high.

Previously, brick ovens were entirely made of red clay bricks, but now they are used in 2 types:

• red ceramic brand 150;
• refractory fireclay.

In the past, the sizes of stove bricks and ordinary building bricks were different. If the dimensions of the building single are 250 x 125 x 65 mm, then the stove stone was 230 x 114 x 40 mm or 230 x 114 x 65 mm. In our time, for convenience, the dimensions have been unified, so the selection is reduced to assessing the quality of the material. Here are some recommendations for acquiring the material from which brick heating stoves are laid:

• Stones should be purchased in the same size.
• You can not use a hollow brick, and even more so silicate. Only a full-bodied ceramic stone is needed.
• For facing masonry, it is better to take stones with a decorative texture, if it is not planned to finish the walls with additional tiles or other facing material.
• In the combustion chamber, the brickwork must be refractory, made of fireclay stone.

Work instructions

After the scheme of the heating furnace is selected, a foundation device is required for it. The exception is small "Dutch" and heating and cooking stoves, which do not exert a large load on the floors. The latter can be erected directly from the cement floor screed, having completed all the measures for thermal and waterproofing, discussed below.

In other cases, the heating furnace should rest on a foundation, preferably a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation. Its dimensions make it 50 mm larger than the dimensions of the building itself, the thickness of the plate is 100-150 mm, depending on the load. The foundation is performed separately, not in contact with the base of the building.

Before making a brick oven, the foundation slab must stand for at least 2 weeks, after which waterproofing is laid on top of it (roofing material in 2-3 layers), followed by sheets of asbestos or basalt cardboard for thermal insulation. Then a sheet of roofing steel and a felt litter are laid, from which the laying of the stove begins. The litter must first be wetted, and after laying, allow it to dry to the metal. Now you can proceed directly to the construction of the walls.

First of all, you should figure out where to start laying. For this, there are special schemes, they reflect in detail each row of stones, starting from the base and ending with the chimney. When you have chosen a certain type of heat source and found or purchased project documentation for its construction, then it necessarily shows the serial laying of furnaces of this type. Below, as an example, is the order of a small "Dutch" with a size of 520 x 520 mm.

Next, you need to prepare a mortar for laying stoves from white or yellowish clay with the addition of quartz sand in a ratio of 1: 1. In this case, it is not recommended to use water with a high content of calcium and magnesium salts (hard water). Before cooking, the clay is soaked in water and left for a day, after which it is passed through a sieve with a cell of 3 x 3 mm. This process is carried out by wiping, since a mixture of clay and water cannot otherwise be passed through a sieve. Then sand is added and kneading is done with a gradual addition of water. The final solution in consistency should resemble thick sour cream.

The sides of the masonry stone have their own names, they determine the type of masonry. The traditional laying of brick ovens is spoon and bonder. This means that from the front side of the wall we can see the sides of the stone with the corresponding names. Bed laying is extremely rare, and for the construction of stoves it is not allowed at all. The wall is built with dressing, that is, the vertical seams between the stones should not match.

The process starts from the first row and on, constantly referring to the diagram, which shows the ordinal masonry. In this work, there is no need to rush, the emphasis should be on quality. It is better for a beginner to first lay each row dry, without mortar, based on the drawings. After making sure that the laying is correct, apply mortar to the bricks and lay them finally.

Remove excess clay, achieving a joint thickness of not more than 3 mm and not less than 2 mm. In some places, it is possible to make thickening of the seam up to 5 mm. The stone must be put immediately in place, moving and tapping is not allowed. Excess clay mixture removed from the stones cannot be used again.

Additional instructions for masonry to be followed, for convenience, are given in the form of a short list:

• Each stone is placed, resting it on 2 others.
• The first and last rows are bonded.
• To avoid delamination, vertical seams are filled with mortar.
• The bricks of each subsequent row must overlap the stones of the previous one by at least ¼ of the length.
• Coincidence of bonder and spoon rows is not allowed.
• The hemmed sides of the stones are placed inside, and not outside the wall.

To lay out a brick oven yourself, it will take a lot of personal time and patience. There are no irresponsible nodes or parts here, each brick matters. If you approach the issue carefully and responsibly, the result will be healthy warmth and comfort in your home.

The hearth is the heart of buildings that are not connected to centralized networks. It generates the heat necessary for life and provides energy for cooking. Both the microclimate in the building and the terms of its service directly depend on its performance and efficiency, and these are very important factors in the operation of the unit, do you agree?

The article presented by us details how to correctly build a brick oven for the house. Schemes for the construction of a hearth are given, technological nuances are thoroughly analyzed. We offer carefully selected, scrupulously verified, practice-proven information on the selection and installation of brick stoves.

Novice stove-makers and owners of suburban property who want to control the work of hired craftsmen will be helped by the information we have proposed, based on building requirements. Photographs and video tutorials will be an excellent help in mastering the material.

It is not easy to understand the constructive abundance of brick ovens. However, owners of suburban real estate who want to equip the house with a brick unit should study this difficult issue. It is better to determine in advance the option that is optimal for its purpose and device than to rebuild and modernize.

The division of brick stoves into types is carried out according to the following aspects:

• Appointment.
• type of gas movement.
• Performance.
• Firebox frequency.
• geometric data.

Ideally, an oven that is perfect for you personally is selected according to two or three of the most important criteria. We will analyze what should be attributed to aspects that are significant in your opinion, which will become the basis for choosing the optimal brick unit.

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Calculation of heat losses will make it possible to determine the productivity of the furnace, which should be slightly larger than the calculated value, but not more than 15%. If the power of the brick unit is greater than the specified limit, a different design should be selected.

To facilitate the process of choosing the most suitable brick oven for masonry in a low-rise building, nomograms have been developed. The graph below, which simplifies the calculations for the selection of the stove, was created for rooms with one external wall.

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