Instructions for insulating the walls of a frame house. What kind of insulation for a frame wooden house is better to use How to insulate a frame house

The question of how to insulate a frame house, in those countries where this technology came from, is usually not worth it - it is believed that it is sufficiently insulated at the construction level. Our winters are very severe - in the central part of the country the frosts are much stronger than at the same latitude in Europe or North America, so even frame houses have to be insulated, the design of which initially provides for a layer of insulation.

Another layer of insulation for our climate will not be “superfluous” Source fasad-exp.ru

The choice of frame house insulation

Before insulating a frame house from the outside, you need to find out what heat-insulating materials were used inside the walls. And already focusing on their properties, choose a warming scheme. Such a dependence is determined at the level of standards, which expressly states that the materials and external insulation scheme should not create conditions for the wall itself to get wet. What does this mean?

It is estimated that during the day, during the life of one person, up to 4 liters of water evaporates in the room: cooking, washing, hygiene, wet cleaning, pets and indoor plants. The main part should be weathered due to ventilation, but the other part of the moisture will penetrate into the building envelope.

The standard wall scheme is a frame sheathed with thin-sheet materials on both sides, between which it is located to insulate. And so that it does not get wet, it is protected from the inside with a vapor-tight membrane, from the outside - with a windproof and waterproofing film that can “pass” water vapor.

Standard scheme of the facade of a frame house Source stroyfora.ru

If you use thermal insulation outside with a vapor permeability lower than that of the main insulation, then the process of diffusion (removal) of water vapor to the street will be disrupted.

Three types of materials are used in the construction of the wall of a frame house:

• expanded polystyrene;
• polyurethane foam (mainly in SIP panels);
• mineral wool.

Polymer insulation has approximately the same vapor permeability, and it is low.

Note. The exception is PVC foam, but this is an expensive insulation that is used to insulate the hulls of yachts and other small elite class ships.

If the frame house is insulated with mineral wool, the scheme should take into account the fact that this is a "breathable" material, but hygroscopic. The latter property is compensated by the fact that the fibrous structure (unlike the cellular one) releases moisture just as easily as it absorbs it. Subject to its free weathering.

• If expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam is laid inside the wall, then the frame house can be insulated from the outside with any material.
• If there is mineral wool inside, then only it can stand outside. Alternatively, ecowool or open-cell spray foam, which have approximately the same vapor permeability.

It is desirable to insulate the frame house outside and inside Source k-dom74.ru

Properties, advantages and disadvantages of heaters

Each type of insulation has a certain "set" of properties that affect the choice. Permeability has been discussed above. It is worth focusing on other qualities and differences.

Density

What density of insulation for the walls of a frame house, in addition to direct thermal insulation, also affects the method of attachment. When using insulation with fastening sheets or mats inside the frame (battens), there are no strict requirements for strength.

stone wool. If we are talking about stone wool, then it should not be too loose - so that it does not slip or wrinkle in a vertical structure. In ventilated facades, its density can start from 50 kg/m³.

When choosing the “wet” facade technology with a thin layer of light plaster, mineral wool must have a density of at least 85 kg/m³. For heavy plaster - from 125 kg/m³.

Note. The division of plaster is rather conditional. Light are considered up to 1500 kg / m³, heavy - over.

If we take into account that the density of cement is 1100-1300 kg/m³, and that of acrylic polymers is about 1200 kg/m³, then the main factor influencing the "gravity" is fillers. For decorative facade plaster, coarse quartz sand, screenings and stone chips are usually used, which provide higher mechanical strength, but increase the specific gravity. Therefore, most of its species are heavy.

With the choice of the density of polystyrene foam is a little easier. For external insulation, it is used either according to the “wet” facade scheme, or as part of thermal panels. And here we are usually talking about PSB-S-25 or PSB-S-35. The second option is preferable - stronger, with almost the same thermal conductivity.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

Extruded polystyrene foam, used for facade insulation, has a density of 35 kg / m³. But due to the cellular structure with a monolithic "skeleton" (rather than glued together from individual microcapsules), its strength is much higher than that of conventional PSP-S-35 foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam is not susceptible to water Source remontik.org

PPU (polyurethane foam). There are two types of spray foam: open-cell and closed-cell.

Open cell PPU refers to light insulation (9-11 kg / m³). By properties, it is similar to mineral wool: high vapor permeability and almost the same coefficient of thermal conductivity. It can only be used when spraying between frame or batten elements, followed by paneling. But it is more expensive than mineral wool.

Closed cell spray foam for facade insulation has a density of 28-32 kg / m³. It is already able to withstand a layer of finishing plaster and has the lowest thermal conductivity among all types of insulation.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Thermal conductivity

The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the thermal insulation properties of the material. For calculations, coefficients fixed at the level of standards are used. Although manufacturers often indicate the characteristics that they obtained during laboratory tests, they always differ for the better. However, when calculating according to standard indicators, you can be sure that it will not get worse.

Comparison of thermal conductivity of different materials Source realsroier.ru

Both two-component and one-component polyurethane foam are considered the best thermal insulation materials. According to some sources, their thermal conductivity is not higher, and sometimes lower than that of dry air - 0.02–0.023 W/m*deg. Expanded polystyrene heaters have the same coefficient in the range of 0.031–0.38, and mineral wool - 0.048–0.07.

Other characteristics influencing the choice

Water absorption indicates the material's tendency to get wet. The best performance here is for extruded polystyrene foam and closed-cell sprayed polyurethane foam - about 2%.

Expanded polystyrene is next on the list - up to 4%.

Mineral wool (including stone wool) - up to 70%. Ecowool when wet can increase its weight several times. But after drying, they restore their thermal insulation properties.

Video description

Which thermal insulation is better: based on stone wool or fiberglass, discussed in the video:

If we talk about the cost of insulation, then the most expensive technologies are spraying with ecowool and polyurethane foam. "In the middle" - hinged facades with stone wool. Then - insulation with EPPS. And the most accessible view is the "wet facade" with polystyrene foam.

It would seem that the insulation of a frame house with foam plastic outside and inside the walls should be the most popular technology - low cost and water absorption with high thermal insulation properties.

For brick and monolithic houses, this is indeed the most common material. And the scheme for insulating the walls of a frame house, like a wooden one, should first of all take into account the fire safety of materials and their environmental properties.

Styrofoam insulation is incredibly popular Source lineyka.net

When the polymer insulation is “surrounded” on all sides by non-combustible materials (brick, concrete, building blocks, plaster), and it itself is classified as low-flammable and self-extinguishing, then such insulation is safe for residents. But if the supporting structure of the house is made of wood, the foam is dangerous - in case of fire, it begins to melt and release life-threatening suffocating gases.

Therefore, for internal insulation of frame walls, non-combustible mineral wool is more often chosen, and as a result of the requirements for the vapor permeability of materials, it is also used outside.

Insulation of a frame house from the outside with mineral wool

Of the three types of mineral wool, stone (basalt) wool is used to insulate residential buildings. When working with glass, quite a lot of microscopic fragments of fiberglass are formed, which are dangerous for the respiratory organs of workers during the installation of insulation and residents for the first time after settling in the house. Slag wool is not recommended for use because of its low environmental qualities.

Scheme of wall insulation of a frame house with an additional outer layer Source stroyfora.ru

With external insulation with mineral wool, the technology of a ventilated facade is somewhat different from the usual scheme. For a house made of bricks, building blocks, logs or timber, the crate is attached to the wall. A frame house does not have a wall as such in the usual sense. What is the point of sewing up the frame outside the OSB with a slab, and for the next layer of insulation, attach the crate on top if it can be immediately mounted on the supporting racks.

This is also justified by the fact that the vapor permeability of a “fresh” OSB board is lower than that of stone wool. Therefore, ideally, the “pie” of the correct insulation of a frame house with mineral wool looks like this:

• interior decoration (with crate for panels);
• vapor-tight membrane;
• frame with insulation;
• crate for the outer layer of mineral wool;
• windproof vapor permeable membrane:
• counter-lattice to create a ventilated gap;
• facade cladding and finishing.

Outside insulation with polymeric materials

With the technology of building frame houses from SIP panels, at the stage of factory production, foam plastic is laid as an internal insulation - expanded polystyrene or rigid polyurethane foam.

It looks like a prefabricated sandwich panel Source superdom.ua

In addition, the usual technology of assembling a "sandwich" on site allows the use of polymer insulation in the form of plates or sprayed liquid polyurethane.

Application of polyurethane foam as an internal insulation of a frame house Source pinterest.es

In both cases, the wall has a "finished" structure with double-sided sheathing with thin-sheet materials. And it is possible to insulate the frame house with foam plastic from the outside using the “wet facade” technology.

• A horizontal level is beaten off along the base, along which the starting bar is attached.
• With the help of glue, the first row of foam boards is fixed.
• The second row is fixed with an offset of at least 20 cm relative to the first.

So it is impossible to mount EPS. Intersecting horizontal and vertical seams are the cause of cracks in facade plaster. Source es.decorexpro.com

• The corners of the openings should not be at the seams and at the intersections of the seams.
• Each sheet is additionally fixed with plastic dish-shaped dowels, 5 pieces per sheet.

Plastic dowel does not form a "cold bridge" Source kronshtein.by

• A layer of adhesive solution 3 mm thick is applied to the foam, a reinforcing mesh is attached to it and covered with another layer of glue.
• Carry out finishing with plaster.

Another way to use foam for external insulation of a frame house is thermal panels with clinker tiles.

Thermal panels - insulation plus brick finish Source pro-uteplenie.ru

Sprayed thermal insulation

To some extent, this technology resembles the application of plaster on lighthouses - vertical slats are stuffed on the walls, between which polyurethane foam or ecowool is sprayed.

Frame house, insulated on the outside with polyurethane foam, ready for facade finishing Source mirstrojka.ru

After the PPU "hardens", its excess is cut off with a special manual electric cutter or electric saw. From above, you can either install facade panels, or apply a layer of decorative plaster.

Video description

You can get acquainted with the technique of cutting excess PPU with an electric saw in the video material:

When insulating the frame walls with ecowool, it is sewn up with panels.

Conclusion

Technically, it is not difficult to perform the insulation of a frame house. If you do not consider the option of insulation with sprayed thermal insulation, then this does not require any special equipment. But in each case, it is necessary to carefully calculate the density of the insulation for the walls of the frame house, plus, there are always some technological “nuances” that you need to know - otherwise the result will not give the expected effect. Therefore, it is better to have professionals do the home insulation.

A frame house is an attractive modern alternative to brick, timber and block houses. Due to the warm climate in Canada, the United States and European countries, such houses are the main type of residential buildings, and due to the cheap cost of construction and the ease of installation of the frame, they have become popular in Russia.

The peculiarities of the Russian climate have made their own adjustments to the frame technology, making the insulation of the frame of the house an obligatory stage in construction, and due to the large number of insulation materials, it is becoming increasingly difficult to make the right choice.

After reading this article, you will know:

• On the stages of construction and insulation of frame houses.
• What kind of insulation can be used in the frame structure of houses.
• Where and what type of insulation can be used.
• What other materials will be required for frame construction.
• What insulation is better to buy for warming a frame house?
• And a lot of other useful information.

Construction technology: general principles

The optimal temperature regime is an important condition for a comfortable stay indoors in winter and summer. Therefore, the technology of building frame houses ultimately comes down to their insulation.

In nature, there are several construction technologies, but the process of their construction comes down to the main stages that are inherent in almost all methods of construction. The main essence of the technology is the conditional division of the construction of a house into two parts:

1. Enclosing structure (floor, walls, roof);
2. Frame (bearing element of the structure).

Construction stages

1. Arrangement of the foundation. Since the frame has a relatively light weight, the foundation is also made on piles or in a tape way from concrete or brick.

2. Delivery of elements of a frame house to the installation site (beam 150 * 150, staples, self-tapping screws and other goods).

3. Arrangement of the floor. To do this, beams are laid on the foundation, on which the assembled structures are installed. The foundation is waterproofed with mastic or rolled materials. Then the floor covering is selected. For these purposes, tiled material is well suited, for example ISOPLATE, or OSB boards and insulation.

4. Support beams are installed on the mounted floor, which are sheathed with sandwich panels. Galvanized fixing brackets are used for all structural connections. At this stage, all external and internal panels are mounted.

5. Using fasteners, roof trusses are mounted on the walls of the frame structure.

6. Roofing work. Good for roofing. This is a light, strong, durable material consisting of fiberglass, granulate and modified bitumen, for which the manufacturer gives a guarantee of up to 60 years.

7. After vapor barrier membranes are stretched along the perimeter of the walls of the building and the roof, which will protect the basalt wool from moisture.

8. Proceed to the insulation of the gaps of the supporting frame structures with basalt wool (walls, floor, roof). The material is laid from the inside of the house, and then sealed with a vapor barrier membrane. In general, the warming process looks like this:

9. Installation of windows, doors and laying of communications around the house (pipes and cable).

10. Laying communications around the house (pipes and cable) and finishing the interior walls with eurolining or any other finishing material.

The frame house is mounted in a short time, and does not require the use of special equipment. It is enough to follow the construction technology and use all the necessary materials that you can buy from us at wholesale prices!

Types of materials for warming frame houses

Currently, the following three types of material are used for heat and sound insulation of frame houses, but not everyone can fully insulate frame houses:

Information block: What kind of insulation, and where it can be used, read below, in the description of each insulation.

Basalt wool

Mineral wool (glass wool)

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Polyfoam (expanded polystyrene) is a cheap durable insulation that is sold in the form of plates of different sizes and thicknesses.

Styrofoam is a hardened foam mass, 98% air and 2% polystyrene itself, resulting in a material that is very light.

The most popular manufacturers: PENOPLEX, URSA XPS (URSA), KNAUF Therm.

Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam boards are not used for wall insulation, due to the release of toxic substances during the operation of the house and vapor tightness. They can only insulate the foundation if they plan to pour concrete under the house.

Other types of insulation (ecowool, sawdust and polyurethane foam)

These types of heaters have not been used in frame construction technology for a long time due to inefficiency or high cost (polyurethane foam), although there is a sea of ​​reverse information on the Internet.

Therefore, when ordering the construction of a frame house, we would recommend that you pay attention to what your house will be insulated with.

What thickness of thermal insulation is considered optimal?

To determine the thickness of the thermal insulation layer that will work effectively, two main factors must be taken into account:

• what material will be used?
• What climate is the house in?

For example, for the Krasnodar Territory, it will be sufficient to use 2 layers of basalt wool (total thickness 100 mm), and in St. Petersburg and the Leningrad Region, 4-5 layers of a similar heat insulator will be needed (total thickness 150-200 mm).

δut = R x λut

R- thermal resistance of the wall;

λut- thermal conductivity of the selected material.

The thermal resistance coefficient of residential buildings in the Leningrad Region is 3.3.2 m2*0C/W. The thermal conductivity value can be found in the material certification documentation.

For example, we use basalt wool to insulate the frame-frame structure of a house.

The thermal conductivity of the material will be 0.045 W/m*0C. For this case, we get the following calculation: δut = R x λut = 3.20 x 0.045 = 0.14 m.

Those. it turns out that for effective insulation and soundproofing of a building in the Leningrad region, the minimum thickness of the heat-insulating layer of basalt wool should be 150-200 mm.

What is the best insulation for a frame house?

The answer to this question is unequivocally one - it is only basalt wool for insulation of external walls, and preferably internal. It is the toughest, so it does not cake and does not sag over time, thereby well isolating the house from the environment, allowing it to "breathe", giving moisture to the outside.

As for glass wool, it can only be used in non-loaded surfaces and insulation of interior partitions, which will reduce construction costs. But there is one thing, but: if you compare the price of basalt and mineral slabs (glass wool), then the price will not differ significantly, and the quality of the insulation in terms of its properties and service life is significant.

Therefore, before choosing a heater for interior floors, you should ask yourself: Is it worth saving during construction? It's up to you to decide!

conclusions

Insulation of frame houses is one of the important stages of construction. As a heat insulator, in fact, you can use only one of the above materials, which you can purchase in our store, with all related products (OSB, Isoplat, support beams, vapor barrier membranes, shingles, etc. products).

If you have any questions, our experts will advise you and help you understand the huge selection of components, as well as offer the right type of insulation at an affordable and comfortable price for you.

The design of the frame wall is such that the elements of the frame serve only to impart rigidity and reliability to the entire structure; the outer and inner lining serve as a facing material, protect the insulation from moisture and give the walls additional rigidity. Therefore, for the construction of a frame house, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of horizontal ceilings (floor, ceiling, interfloor ceilings) and walls (both load-bearing and partitions), to understand which insulation is better for a frame house. Before starting the design of the house, it is necessary to choose the material and method of insulation, because the entire construction technology and the location of the frame elements, skins and the procedure for their installation will depend on this.

What requirements should the material for insulation meet?

Before discussing each of the materials for insulation, it is necessary to understand on what grounds this or that material can be considered good or bad.

• Thermal conductivity of insulation. The main function of the insulation (sorry for the tautology) is the insulation of the structure for comfortable year-round living. Therefore, when choosing a material, the coefficient of thermal conductivity is in the first place. The lower it is, the less thickness of insulation will be required. But you should not fanatically look for a heater with the lowest heat loss coefficient. Other criteria are sometimes even more important.
• Environmental friendliness of the material. You are building a home for yourself and those closest to you. Imagine that these people will have to breathe the chemistry with which you fill the walls of your house. Therefore, the material for insulation must be absolutely harmless to human health.
• Insulation durability. Here it should be understood that durability is not only the service life of the material, but its service life without loss of basic properties: thermal conductivity, shape. The service life of the insulation, at a minimum, should not be less than the expected service life of the frame.
• The material for insulation should be combined with other materials used to build a house: frame elements, sheathing.
• Moisture resistance. Under this concept, it is necessary to understand not only the resistance of the insulation to moisture, but also the preservation of its properties when water or steam enters.
• Availability in the market. Not in every region you can find any of the heaters that are used in frame housing construction.
• Ease of use. This criterion can be considered only if you build a house with your own hands. A construction company will not offer you an insulation material that its specialists do not know how to work with, or for which they do not have additional equipment to use.
• Fire hazard. Wood construction is always associated with a fire hazard. Therefore, the insulation, at a minimum, should not support combustion.

Sawdust

Let's start our research with the oldest material for insulation. Sawdust was used by our ancestors to insulate ceilings and floors near log cabins. In Finland, this material has also been used to insulate frame walls. Despite the good coefficient of thermal conductivity and the unconditional availability, environmental friendliness and cheapness of sawdust, it also has a large number of disadvantages.

• For insulation, only dry sawdust is used, which has excellent combustibility.
• When moisture gets into the sawdust, mold forms. Also, under the influence of moisture, sawdust shrinks significantly and loses most of its thermal insulation properties.
• Pests and rodents feel great in walls and horizontal ceilings insulated with sawdust.

To eliminate such significant shortcomings, binders (to combat shrinkage and pests) and chemical additives (to combat mold) began to be added to this material. Clay or cement is usually used as binding elements, boric acid is added as an antiseptic (which is very harmful to humans in significant doses).

When insulating horizontal surfaces, sawdust with fillers simply fall asleep between the lags. In the case of wall insulation, it will be necessary, step by step, level by level, to produce internal and external cladding and pour the mixture into the cavity. What do Internet users say about this method of insulation?

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is produced from clay under the influence of very high temperatures. Expanded clay of both small and large fractions can be used to insulate frame structures. The material has a number of very important advantages: it is exceptional environmental friendliness with good thermal insulation performance, vapor permeability and resistance to high humidity while maintaining its properties. In addition, the insulation is non-flammable and does not attract rodents and pests.

It would seem that the ideal option for insulation? But for proper insulation of a residential building, a layer of at least 300 mm thick for the floor and at least 250 mm thick for the walls will be required. What will experts say about expanded clay as a heater?

A very harsh statement, but this is exactly how expanded clay is treated. This material is usually used in combination with concrete, which significantly increases the weight of the structure and deprives the walls and floor of the ability to breathe.

Foam glass in granules

In terms of its properties and appearance, foam glass is very similar to expanded clay. It is made from quartz sand under the influence of very high temperatures. The material has all the advantages of expanded clay: environmental friendliness, resistance to moisture, insulated structures continue to breathe. It is an excellent bulk material for warming both horizontal and vertical surfaces. The only downside is the very high price.

The availability of this product is also important. Not in every region you can find a manufacturer of high-quality insulation made of glass granules.

Mineral heaters

It can be divided into two large groups: basalt and fiberglass-based. Both materials have similar release forms and have almost identical properties. Basalt insulation is produced in the form of plates, fiberglass can be produced both in the form of plates and in rolls.

The main advantages of mineral insulation are: excellent thermal and sound insulation performance, incombustibility, absolute environmental friendliness (in the case of fiberglass, it is important to use resin-free insulation), low cost and ease of installation, excellent combination with a wooden frame and any cladding options, which allows the walls to breathe. The only drawback of these heaters is their low resistance to moisture. It is necessary to mount special building membranes to remove vapors from the thickness of the material.

Heaters in the form of mats are considered universal for walls and horizontal ceilings. Roll materials are an excellent solution for horizontal slabs and low pitched roofs.

To date, these materials are most often used for insulation of frame structures. This is due to the advantages of these heaters and the traditions of Finnish housing construction, where this type of material is also used in most buildings.

There are many manufacturers on the mineral insulation market, and the materials of each of them have different qualities. Let's evaluate the opinions of professionals and ordinary people.

Let's take a look at the largest product review portal on the Internet - Otzovik. Consider the leading brands among mineral heaters.

Ecowool

A very common material for the construction of frame structures. For its production, recycling of materials from the pulp and paper industry is used. It is a loose material of small fractions. Fiber is added to ecowool to prevent shrinkage, and special antiseptics that are harmless to human health are used to combat mold and pests. By its properties, ecowool is very similar to wood. This implies a high vapor permeability of the material, it is perfectly combined with frame elements and any cladding options. The material practically does not shrink and does not lose its thermal insulation properties under the influence of moisture. All its advantages have allowed it to win a wide demand in the Russian market of frame housing construction.

Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam

The materials have excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral heaters are almost twice superior in terms of thermal insulation. Low weight, resistance to high moisture, complete absence of shrinkage during operation - all these have made these materials very common. The key disadvantages are: high fire hazard and complete vapor tightness, which does not allow the frame to breathe.

Polystyrene-based insulation has found wide application in the construction of frame houses from SIP panels. EPS slabs have independent rigidity, which allows you to build houses without a wooden frame. Polyurethane foam has identical properties and differs only in the method of insulation - the material is sprayed onto the surface to be insulated.

Conclusion

It is very difficult to draw a final conclusion about the exceptional superiority of any material. Each of the heaters has advantages and disadvantages. But the significant use of mineral insulation and ecowool speaks of their superiority. Insulation with vapor-proof materials harms the durability of the lumber used for the frame.

In the case of using loose ecowool, it is perfect for insulating horizontal ceilings. Ecowool is fed at a uniform pressure between the lags. When insulating walls, it is necessary to drill holes for feeding ecowool into each cavity. Now you can find a lot of controversy on the Internet about whether ecowool is the best insulation, or inferior to mineral counterparts.

In recent years, a frame structure has been increasingly chosen for the construction of houses, which is much cheaper in cost compared to the construction of brick, block, or log walls. In addition, the process of mounting the frame takes much less time than raising the main walls. However, without proper insulation, it will be impossible to live in such a house. Therefore, the question of which insulation is best for a frame house becomes relevant for all potential owners of such housing.

Thermal insulation in frame buildings should not only provide a comfortable temperature regime in the premises, but also make the house quiet at the same time. Thus, heaters must also have good soundproofing qualities. In addition, there are a number of important criteria that must be taken into account when choosing materials for the insulation of the "framework". All this will be discussed in the proposed publication.

The main criteria for choosing a heater for a frame house

The first step is to figure out what properties the insulation should have in order for it to be effective for heat and sound insulation of the frame walls of the house and as safe as possible for people living in the building.

So, it is necessary that the material meets the following requirements:

• It should be well combined with the material of the frame, that is, with a wooden beam.
• Optimal material - the most environmentally friendly
• Insulation should be selected with the expectation of the longest possible service life, which should not be less than the service life of the wood chosen for the construction of the frame.
• Moisture resistance, that is, the ability to resist moisture absorption (as a percentage of volume or mass), which can have a destructive effect on the material and drastically reduce its insulating qualities.
• The coefficient of thermal conductivity - the lower it is, the better the insulation, since the main function of thermal insulation is to minimize heat loss.
• Vapor permeability. Ideally, the material should be "breathable", that is, not prevent the release of water vapor. Only in this case, moisture will not accumulate in its structure and on the border between it and the wall surface, which becomes a favorable environment for various microflora - fungus, mold, etc., which can cause serious damage to the structure.
• The insulation should not attract rodents, otherwise they will settle in it for permanent residence, laying passages and equipping nests.
• For frame houses, fire safety is of particular importance. Ideally, the material should be non-combustible, or at least as resistant to fire as possible.

Thermal insulation materials can be divided into three types according to the method of application - these are backfill, sprayed and slab (roll) installed between frame racks.

• Filling heaters are expanded clay, foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.
• Sprayed heat insulators - polyurethane foam and ecowool, applied by "wet" technology.
• Plate or roll insulation - various types of expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, foam glass, linen, wood-fiber and cork boards.

Each of these materials has its own characteristics and differs in technical and operational characteristics. To make a choice, it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail, both in terms of its main qualities, and from the standpoint of ease of use.

For thermal insulation of frame buildings, modern materials and traditional ones, familiar to builders for more than a dozen years, are used. Since all heaters were classified above into three groups according to the way they are used, their characteristics will be discussed further in accordance with this division.

Bulk type heaters

This type of material is used in construction for thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floors along logs. These include expanded clay, granulated foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a natural material that has been used to insulate different parts of a building for a very long time, and has fully justified its purpose. It is produced in the form of gravel (granules) of different fractions, sand and crushed stone.

Expanded clay is used in construction not only as a backfill insulation, but also in combination with concrete mortar. The latter option is called expanded clay concrete and is most often used as an insulating layer under the concrete screed of the first floor floors on the ground.

Expanded clay is produced from refractory clays, which undergo special heat treatment at high temperatures, are brought to melting, swelling and sintering of the material. As a result of these processes, expanded clay granules acquire a porous structure, which provides the material with low thermal conductivity. Expanded clay has the following characteristics:

• High level of thermal insulation. Expanded clay is made from clay, which is one of the "warm" natural materials, and the air structure of the granules helps to reduce the thermal conductivity of clay.
• It has a low weight, which is ten times lower than the mass of concrete. Therefore, it is suitable for warming light buildings, as it does not give a large load on the foundation and wooden formwork into which it is backfilled.
• The material is absolutely environmentally friendly - it does not contain any synthetic and toxic substances.
• Expanded clay is inert to chemical and biological influences.
• The material is vapor-permeable, that is, it is “breathable”, which does not allow the walls to become waterlogged.
• Moisture resistance of the material is important - it does not absorb and does not retain water.
• Expanded clay will not create any problems for people prone to allergic reactions.
• The material calmly, without losing its insulating properties, withstands very low winter and high summer temperatures.
• The heater is not flammable. It does not support combustion, does not emit smoke, even if it gets into an open fire, so it can be called a fireproof material.
• Rodents and insects do not live in expanded clay, which makes this material indispensable for warming a private house. From fine-grained expanded clay, they even often make an embankment under the house, as it helps protect the building from mice.
• Long service life. It is difficult to talk about any specific time periods, but the frame house itself will survive such a heater for sure.

Expanded clay has its own letter and number marking from M300 to M700, but unlike other building materials, it does not indicate strength, but the bulk density of the insulation, which depends on its fraction.

• Expanded clay sand has a grain fraction of 0.13 ÷ 5.0 mm, it is used for backfilling as a heater in walls of relatively small thickness, up to 50 mm.
• Expanded clay gravel has a fraction of 5 ÷ 50 mm, and it is excellent for the manufacture of expanded clay concrete.
• Expanded clay crushed stone differs from gravel in that it has an angular shape. It is obtained by crushing or rejecting the gravel mass. The size of the crushed stone fraction can vary from 5 to 40 mm.

The use of expanded clay for the insulation of frame walls can be considered a completely justified option, since this material combines excellent performance and ease of installation - they can isolate any structure in shape. It should be noted that this material is suitable not only for filling wooden walls into frames, but also for three-layer brick or reinforced concrete enclosing structures.

The disadvantage is not too outstanding thermal insulation performance against the background of other materials. If expanded clay is chosen as a heater, then in order to achieve the desired effect, the thickness of its layer must be at least 200 ÷ 300 mm, or it is used in combination with other heat-insulating materials.

Foam glass in granules

In addition to the well-known expanded clay, foam glass produced in granules is used in approximately the same way.

Foam glass is not used as widely as expanded clay, although it has higher thermal insulation performance. Apparently, the lack of information about this material affects. This material has been produced at Russian enterprises since the 30s of the XX century, and it is intended specifically for the insulation of buildings. Foam glass can be purchased in bulk or in the form of plates. Loose material is used to isolate the structural departments of the building - it is poured into the floor space along the logs, attic floors, and also into the cavity of the frame walls.

In addition, granulated foam glass is mixed with concrete for arranging insulation under the screed.

The material is an environmentally friendly product, as sand and glass cullet are used for its manufacture. The raw material is crushed to a powder, then mixed with carbon. The last component contributes to the foaming of the mixture and gas formation - this process makes the material porous, filled with air and light. Pellets are made in special furnaces with rotating chambers, into which blanks - pellets - are filled in advance. The fraction of granules can be different - large, having a size of 8 ÷ 20 mm, medium - 5 ÷ 7 mm and fine 1.5 ÷ 5 mm. The main characteristics of this material are presented in the comparative table at the end of the publication.

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

Foam glass is a moisture-resistant, solid material resistant to chemical and biological influences. In addition, it does not collect or emit dust, and does not contain substances to which allergy sufferers are sensitive. The hardness of the material and the absence of any nutrients protects it from rodents.

The disadvantages of bulk foam glass can only be attributed to its high cost. True, if you closely calculate the "accounting" of insulation and compare it with cheaper expanded clay, then it's still worth seeing which material will be more profitable.

Loose foam glass is laid in the same way as expanded clay.

Ecowool (dry laying)

This material can be attributed to relative innovations in the field of insulation, but it is gradually gaining popularity due to its merits. To insulate frame structures, ecowool is used in two versions - in dry form, backfilling in the cavity, or according to the "wet" technology - spraying on the surface. The second method requires the use of special equipment, while the first one can be done on your own.

Ecowool is a mixture of paper waste and cellulose fibers, which occupy about 80% of the total mass of the insulation. In addition, the composition of the material includes a natural antiseptic - boric acid, which takes up to 12%, as well as a flame retardant - sodium tetraborate - 8%. These substances increase the resistance of the insulation to external influences.

Ecowool goes on sale in hermetically sealed polyethylene bags, in loose form, therefore, when choosing a dry method of wall insulation, it can be used immediately.

Ecowool has the following characteristic features:

• Low thermal conductivity. Cellulose, of which this insulation mainly consists, has all the qualities of wood, which has been used for the construction of residential buildings for hundreds of years precisely because of the natural warmth of the material.
• The lightness of the material, even when moistened, allows it to be used for thermal insulation of frame structures.
• This is an environmentally friendly insulation that does not emit harmful fumes throughout the entire period of operation.
• Pronounced vapor permeability. Ecowool does not retain moisture in its structure, therefore it does not require vapor barrier, which allows you to save some money when building a house.
• Ecowool is resistant to biological influences, as it contains an antiseptic additive, as well as to chemicals.
• This insulation can absorb moisture even up to 20% of the total mass, but it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities. Here it must be said that moisture does not linger in the structure, since the material is "breathable".
• Resistance to low temperatures, that is, frost resistance of cotton wool.
• Despite the flame retardant included in the insulation, the material belongs to the G2 combustibility group, that is, it is low-flammable and self-extinguishing. That is, smoldering of the material cannot be ruled out, but it will not become a flame spreader.
• Mice and insects do not start in ecowool, as it contains boric acid.
• It attracts in it a long service life and the possibility of recycling.

When dry laying ecowool in the wall, its consumption is 45÷70 kg/m³. Before work, the material is fluffed with an electric drill. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that over time, dry cotton wool will sag by about 15%, so the insulation must be well tamped. It is also important to know that when fluffing this material, there will be a large amount of dust and debris in the room, so it is best to work on the street or in outbuildings, and the respiratory tract must be protected by wearing a respirator.

Wall insulation with dry ecowool is carried out in two ways - backfilling and blowing.

Backfilling is carried out manually, into a gradually erected formwork, and blowing - into a space completely closed by a sheathing fixed on the frame racks. In order to blow in, special equipment is needed, into which ecowool is poured, fluffed up, and then, under pressure, it is fed into the empty space of the frame sheathed on both sides through drilled holes.

The stages of work on backfilling ecowool will be discussed below.

Sawdust as filling insulation for frame walls

Sawdust cannot be called a popular insulation, although they have been used for this purpose since time immemorial. We can say that this natural material was replaced by modern synthetic insulation. However, there are craftsmen who to this day do not refuse sawdust and shavings, successfully insulating the walls of frame houses with them.

It is believed that for the first time sawdust began to be used for warming frame buildings in Finland, where the climate is more severe than in most regions of Russia, and it should be noted that the material fully justified its purpose. But we must not forget that sawdust has not only advantages, but also its disadvantages, which you also need to know about.

To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary to choose hard wood sawdust - these are beech, maple, hornbeam, oak, alder and maybe pine, the moisture content of which should be no more than 20% of the total mass.

The disadvantages of sawdust used for insulation in its pure form, without processing them with special compounds, include their following features:

• Flammability. Dry sawdust quickly ignites and burns, spreading fire to nearby combustible materials.
• In a layer of sawdust, various insects and rodents feel good.
• With high humidity, sawdust can begin to rot, and mold can also form on them.
• When moistened, sawdust can shrink significantly, in addition, their thermal conductivity increases, which reduces the heat-insulating effect.

Taking into account all the features of this natural insulating material, the master builders developed mixtures in which there are additives that level out all the shortcomings of sawdust.

For the manufacture of such a warming mixture, in addition to sawdust, the following materials will be required:

• Cement, clay, lime or cement are the binding components of the mass.
• Boric acid or copper sulphate are antiseptic substances.

Clay or cement is used in the sawdust mass if it is prepared to insulate the attic floor, sawdust is mixed with lime for floors, and a sawdust-gypsum mixture is usually used for walls.

The process of manufacturing a mixture for warming frame walls can be considered in the following proportions, based on its mixing in a construction wheelbarrow with a volume of 150 liters:

• Sawdust is poured into the container, about ⅔ of the total volume, that is, about 100 liters. (0.1 m³).
• Gypsum is added to the sawdust, it will take two liter jars. If the attic floor is insulated, clay is taken instead of gypsum, and lime for floors.
• Further, in a bucket of water for 10 liters, 100 ml of boric acid or copper sulfate is diluted.
• Then the ready, well-mixed aqueous solution is poured into a wheelbarrow with sawdust and one of the selected binder additives, after which all components must be mixed well. It must be remembered here that when using gypsum as a binder additive, the mixture must be poured into the formwork immediately after mixing, since gypsum, when mixed with water, remains in working condition for a few minutes. Therefore, a large amount of sawdust-gypsum mass cannot be kneaded. The thickness of the insulation layer of this material must be at least 150÷180 mm. After filling the mixture, it needs to be compacted only lightly, since after the binder has hardened, it should have an air-filled structure.

How the formwork is built will be discussed below, in the section on installation work.

This table presents a more accurate composition of sawdust-gypsum mixture, laid 150 mm thick for insulation of a house with a certain wall surface area.

Loose type insulation installation

The method of wall insulation with any backfill insulation material is almost identical, however, for each of them there are some nuances. It should be noted that there is nothing complicated in warming the frame structure, and the work can be easily done independently:

• The first step is to sheathe the frame with plywood (OSB) or other material from the outside or inside. It is best to clad the structure from the street, especially in cases where it is planned to use wooden lining for cladding the house. Having fixed the boards from the front side of the house, you can calmly, slowly, work from the inside of the room, without fear of rain.
• The next stage of the insulation process is to fix the strips of plywood or boards from the inside of the room from the floor, first to a height of 500 ÷ 800 mm. It will turn out a kind of formwork, into which the insulation will be poured, and then the insulation will be compacted.

• When the cavity is filled with ecowool, the lining from the inside is increased higher. The newly formed space is again filled with ecowool and this continues until the wall is completely insulated. Experts advise leaving the formwork fixed for two to three days. During this time, the cotton fibers will bond well and shrink slightly, freeing up part of the space that must also be filled with cotton.

• If sawdust is used for insulation, then the lower part of the formwork is left in place, and its following elements are fixed on top of it - plywood or boards, after which the space is also filled with insulation.
• When the walls are insulated with ecowool, after filling all the free space with it, the formwork plywood is often removed, and from the inside of the house the frame can be sheathed with drywall or other facing material.
• If another filling material is used, then drywall or finishing sheathing will have to be fixed on top of the formwork material.
• If additional wall insulation is required, it is recommended to install heat-insulating material from the outside of the building, before decorative cladding.
• On the front side, the insulation material must be tightened with a hydro-windproof membrane.
• When using sawdust or ecowool for filling the wall frame, it is recommended to use kraft paper as a waterproofing material. It is laid inside the formwork, spreading on the bottom and walls. After filling the insulation, to a height of approximately 200 ÷ 300 mm, the next sheet of waterproofing is laid on it, then the insulation - and so on.

Spray-on insulation

If you plan to use sprayed materials for insulation, then you immediately need to prepare for the extra costs of their installation, since special equipment is used for it. Moreover, installations for spraying polyurethane foam differ from those intended for working with ecowool.

Ecowool (spraying)

The application of ecowool, in addition to backfilling in the cavity, is also carried out by a “wet” or adhesive method. The fact is that cellulose contains a natural adhesive substance - lignin, and when the raw materials are moistened, ecowool fibers acquire adhesive ability.

Ecowool prices

This quality of the material allows it to be used for insulation of vertical surfaces. Wall insulation is done in two ways:

• Spraying the material between the racks of the frame after sheathing it on the outside or inside with plywood (OSB) or boards, and then leveling the wool over the racks using a special roller;

• The frame is sheathed with plywood (OSB) on both sides, and then the empty space is filled with ecowool through holes drilled in the cladding, 55÷60 mm in size.

Both spraying and blowing ecowool into the space between the frame racks is carried out under pressure, which is created using special equipment.

In the capacity of the device there are special mechanical "mixers" for fluffing, whipping ecowool and moisturizing it throughout the volume.

Dry ecowool is filled into the bunker, where it is moistened and mixed, and then it enters the corrugated sleeve, through which it is sprayed onto the surface under pressure or blown into the sheathed frame.

If the wall is filled through a hole, then it is first drilled into the plywood sheathing. Then, a rubber seal and a pipe are installed in the resulting hole, through which the fluffy and moistened ecowool is fed.

When cotton wool is sprayed onto the surface and after it is leveled, the insulation is closed with a windproof material, after which you can proceed to the outer skin of the frame.

Today you can find simpler sets of equipment for blowing and spraying ecowool, for their independent use. However, when using such a device, ecowool will have to be fluffed manually before filling it, and this is additional time and a large amount of dust, which in a professional device is collected in a special dust bag.

Frame houses are especially popular today: they are easily and quickly assembled, do not require the arrangement of a reinforced and expensive foundation, are inexpensive, and therefore accessible to all segments of the population.

Nevertheless, many do not dare to build houses using frame technology, as they consider them not warm enough, intended exclusively for summer living. However, this opinion is erroneous, because if you approach the insulation of a panel house wisely, you can feel comfortable in it at any time of the year. "But how to insulate a frame house for winter living?" - you ask. The answer to all questions related to the process of insulating such buildings will be our today's article.

Insulation options

First of all, you need to decide where you will install thermal insulation - outside the building or from the inside. To make the right decision, you should consider the features of each method of insulation.

The following facts speak in favor of the external location of thermal insulation:

In the process, the interior of the house does not suffer at all.

Wooden walls accumulate inside the heat that is in the room, and when the temperature drops, they give it back to the room, allowing you to save on heating.

It should also be noted that the insulation material installed outside the house, in addition to its main function, reliably protects the facade from the harmful effects of moisture, ultraviolet radiation and temperature fluctuations. As a result, the service life of the building is noticeably increased.

If you are thinking about how to insulate the walls in a frame house from the inside, pay attention to several disadvantages of this method:

For the interior, it will be necessary to dismantle all the decorative trim of the room, which, after the installation of thermal insulation, will have to be restored again. This leads to an increase in the timing of the work and to additional costs.

With internal insulation, flows of warm and cold air meet inside the wall, which leads to the accumulation of moisture in the room, as a result, the service life of wooden piers is significantly reduced.

The insulation layer located inside the building does not protect the facade from external factors. The wall goes through many cycles of freezing and thawing, as a result of which its structure is destroyed.

The choice of insulation material

When wondering how to insulate a frame house for winter living, it should be understood that when it comes to walls made of wood-shaving materials, the insulation must have the following qualities:

1. Environmental friendliness. The heat insulator must not release substances hazardous to humans into the air (even when heated).

2. Fire safety. Materials should be chosen that prevent the spread of fire along the walls of the building and do not emit much smoke in the event of a fire.

3. Low thermal conductivity.

4. Strength. must fit tightly between the walls and retain its original shape over time.

5. Low cost. The price of insulation should not exceed the cost of the building itself.

Expanded polystyrene and mineral wool are considered closest to the above requirements.

Styrofoam

The main advantages of polystyrene include its low weight, which is very important when it comes to frame structures. The material perfectly tolerates sudden changes in temperature, is not afraid of moisture and does not freeze.

The durability and low cost of foam plastic attract many homeowners, but along with the positive qualities, this insulation also has disadvantages.

These include:

Rapid flammability;

Susceptibility to mechanical and chemical damage;

Poor breathability (due to which the effect of a thermos is created in the house).

As an alternative, many use an improved type of foam plastic - foam plastic, which is resistant to various kinds of damage, but has a higher price tag.

Most often, this insulation is installed on the outside of the house.

Mineral wool

The most popular material used as thermal insulation in frame houses is Isover mineral wool (insulation, the price of which, in comparison with similar materials, is quite low). On sale it is found in the form of rolls, mats and durable plates.

It is characterized by environmental friendliness, light weight, excellent heat and sound insulation performance, the ability to go around any irregularities, as well as a long service life.

The fire safety of a material depends entirely on its density. Products in the form of plates do not burn at all.

When choosing this insulation for frame walls, it should be borne in mind that after a while the wool can cake and sag, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the heat-insulating layer. Also, due attention must be paid to waterproofing, because, when wet, glass wool loses its original properties and becomes a favorable environment for mold to form.

Facade insulation

Let's take a closer look at how to insulate a frame house for winter living from the outside.

For these purposes, you can use the technology. It involves the installation of insulation between the outer wall and decorative cladding. In this case, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer directly depends on the climatic conditions in the region of residence (20 cm or more).

This method can also be used for internal wall insulation, and lining or drywall can be used as a finish.

Styrofoam insulation technology for external walls

1. The wall is cleaned of dirt and dust, all protrusions are smoothed out. The base is completely treated with a primer, and if cracks are found, they are covered with special adhesives.

2. Next, install vertical hangers. Nylon strings with loads are placed at a distance of 0.5 m from each other in order to identify and eliminate all irregularities (if the walls of the panel house are as smooth as possible, this stage can be skipped).

3. With the help of special glue, the foam boards are fixed on the walls. It is very important that the material fits as tightly as possible to the base.

4. A finishing material is installed over the heat-insulating layer.

Insulation of internal walls

Now let's figure out how to insulate a frame house with mineral wool.

The installation of insulation should be started only after the wall has been treated with antiseptic compounds.

Installation of thermal insulation includes the following works:

1. On the walls, a vapor-permeable one is placed so that its smooth side “looks” into the room.

2. Guide rails made of wood or metal are installed on top of the membrane using self-tapping screws. The distance between the rails must correspond to the width of the insulation material.

3. Installation of mineral wool can start both from above and from below the wall. If you use a rolled "Izover" (insulation, the price of which varies between 1500-2000 rubles per pack), installation should start from the ceiling. Mineral wool in mats is mounted starting from the floor. Fastening is carried out using dowels with a wide cap.

4. On top of the insulation is located For these purposes, you should choose vapor-permeable products that will contribute to the natural ventilation of the room. The film is fixed with wooden slats so that it is not strongly stretched and does not sag. Next, the cladding is installed.

Conclusion

Now you know how to insulate a frame house for winter living. At the end of the topic, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that thermal insulation will not make the building suitable for living in the cold season - it is designed to keep warm air inside the room. Therefore, if you want your home to be warm and comfortable even in severe frosts, take care of its heating.