Paving slabs without chamfer. Tile without seams: how to lay tiles without seams. How to choose a finishing material

Matte;

square;

Without chamfer;

Dark color.

Wall tiles look better if they are:

glossy;

Rectangular;

With fine texture.

Advice

Try not to buy discontinued tiles on promotions. Saving on cost will result in even more spending if you don’t have enough of just a few pieces to finish the wall or floor cladding.

I adhere to established views on the design of the bathroom and toilet, so I recommend buying tiles of the same color scheme. The darker one will go to the lower half of the walls and under the ceiling, and the lighter one will become the main background of the bathroom. You can emphasize individuality with decor from the same collection as the entire tile.

Tile with chamfer or seamless

Seamless tiles do not have chamfered edges, so they can be laid in a joint to get a smooth surface without seams. I categorically do not recommend using this method of laying on plasterboard walls due to the relatively low strength and warm floors due to the constant temperature difference.

Important

Reliable, high-quality and durable laying of tiles without seams is possible only on a very even and very durable surface. In our case, this is a concrete screed or a wall plastered with a cement-sand mixture.

However, tiles without chamfers can be laid in the traditional way - with seams. In this case, it can be used on a warm floor, drywall or other surfaces. At the same time, the technology for laying tiles with a chamfer or seamless is the same in both cases.

Advice

Carefully match the color of the grout to the color of the non-beveled tile, press it into the joints and grout flush with the tile. This way you will get a surface with seams, but looking like a seamless one.

How to properly lay out tiles

Before you buy tiles for the floor and walls, you need to calculate its quantity. At first glance, this is as easy as shelling pears: you need to measure the length and width of the floor (the width and height of each wall), multiply them together and get the area. Then, in the store, find out the surface area of one tile, divide the previously calculated data by it and get the number of tiles.

You will be lucky if a whole number of them fit on the wall or floor. But this happens very rarely. Usually, either a small piece is missing, or an equally small piece will be superfluous and needs to be trimmed. A beautiful and aesthetic appearance of the bathroom will be only if the undercut of the tile is more than half of its length. To correctly lay out the tiles, I recommend doing the following:

1) lay out the tiles from the wall and see how many whole tiles fit;

2) remove the last tile, and move the rest to the middle;

3) the extreme tiles will need to be trimmed before laying, but the appearance will not suffer from this.

Similarly, I do when only one whole tile is placed on a section of the wall. I cut it so that it fits exactly half the surface. The picture shows what my styling option looks like, as well as trimming along the edges on one or two sides.

And a few more drawings for comparison, what my trimming method looks like and others.

NOTE

When using my trimming method, the tile consumption increases by 10%, which is about 2-3 m 2 for a bathroom with an area of about 6 m 2.

Floor tiles are laid out in exactly the same way. But here there is an opportunity to save money due to the fact that a bathroom, a shower cabin and a cabinet with a washbasin can cover small aesthetic flaws.

How to lay tiles correctly

When talking about how to lay tiles correctly, I mean that the work on leveling the walls and floor has already been completed. I always start laying tiles from the floor, and when I finish, I move on to the walls. Other masters do the opposite - they start from the walls, and they put them on the floor at the end. But in this case, there are several nuances:

Be sure to use a guide whose thickness will be equal to the thickness of the floor tiles and the adhesive layer;

Slipping floor tiles under the wall tiles at the joints means pressing on its edge, and you will get a slight slope towards the walls around the entire perimeter, where moisture will accumulate;

Due to the inclination of the wall tiles, the size of the seam increases;

If you made a mistake in calculating the thickness of the adhesive layer and floor tiles, you will have to trim the bottom row.

After the floor tiles are laid, and the seams are worn and embroidered, I always cover the floor with plastic wrap, which I fix with masking tape. This will protect the surface from contamination when laying tiles on the wall.

Stages of laying tiles

I always lay floor tiles, starting from the far corner. For work I use:

Trowel (trowel);

Comb trowel with a tooth height of 5 mm;

water level;

Crosses 1.5 mm thick;

I put the glue on the floor with a trowel, then I level it with a comb spatula and remove the excess. I lay the tile on top, lightly press it in the center and level it. To do this, lightly tap the wooden handle of the trowel on the side that is higher. Similarly, I lay the next tile, trying to maintain a distance between them within 1.5 mm.

Laying tiles on the wall

I always start the first row from the bottom. In this case, the floor is already ready and serves as a level. I lay the tiles immediately around the entire perimeter of the room. Thanks to this, the seams of each subsequent row always coincide at the corner joints.

Note

By the time I lay the last tile of the row around the perimeter, the glue under the first one will already have time to grab. So I don't have to wait to start laying out the second and subsequent rows that build on the bottom ones.

Level alignment

Between the tiles I always put crosses, two on each side closer to the corners. If the tile does not rest against the cross, I beat it with a light tap on the end with the handle of the trowel. Thus, I learn a seam that is the same throughout its length.

Important

Tapping both on the surface of the tile and on its end (edge) should be done very carefully and effortlessly. Otherwise, it will either shift the neighboring one, or warp and become at an angle.

I check the horizontality of each new tile with a water level. Moreover, I put it on the surface alternately along the diagonals and parallel to all faces. With the same level, I control the adjacent tile so that it is no higher than the previous one.

Advice

Press the first tile a little harder. Each subsequent one is a little weaker, and then, by lightly tapping on its surface, bring it to the same level as the previous one, which will be the control one.

In this way, lay all the floor tiles up to the doors. When this stage is completed, you need to give some time for the glue to set. I recommend waiting at least a day, then the solution will dry well and you can walk on the tile.

Seam cleaning

After two rows of tiles are laid, I clean the seams. To do this, I use a plastic wedge, which I run several times along a fresh seam and remove the remaining glue. Why clean them up? So that subsequently the grout mixture evenly fills the entire space, and the seam looks beautiful and aesthetically pleasing. I always remove excess adhesive after I have installed two rows of floor tiles.

If you forgot or did not have time before the glue dries, it does not matter. You can use an ordinary clerical knife, a piece of cloth from a hacksaw or a special tool. True, in this case, cleaning the seams will take a lot of time and effort.

Advice

To clean the seams as efficiently as possible, turn the wedge inserted between the tiles slightly so that its edges are adjacent to the ends. Lead the wedge along the seams should be easy and without tension.

Grouting

The next step is grouting. Before you do it, you need to make sure that the seams are clean. Then the grout mixture will fill the space between the tiles and squeeze out all the air.

For grouting, mixtures based on cement, epoxy resins and polyurethane are used. Which one to choose is up to you. I recommend using Ceresit grout. This is a relatively inexpensive mix with a huge range of colors that fills the seams well and washes off the tiles easily.

Note

Grouts based on epoxy resins and polyurethane are more resistant to moisture, however, their price is much higher than traditional mixtures. The main scope of their application is seams on facades and in industrial premises with constant exposure to aggressive factors.

Necessary tools and materials:

Dry grout;

Water or synthetic latex;

Capacity for breeding grout;

Rubber spatula;

Stitching for the formation of seams.

Grout order

First, the dry mixture is diluted with water or latex in accordance with the instructions on the package to a homogeneous mass. Then you can do one of the following:

Apply grout to the tile seam;

Take a small amount of the mixture on a spatula.

I usually pick up grout on a spatula and press it diagonally into the space between the seams.

Advice

Pass with a spatula on which the grout is applied, two to three times along each seam. Do not be afraid to stain the tile with grout, it will be easily washed off.

Approximately 30-40 minutes after grouting, I begin to form the seams. As mentioned earlier, I use a regular white antenna cable as a patch. With a distance between tiles of 1.5-2 mm, its diameter is optimal for creating an even, beautiful, slightly recessed seam of a semicircular profile.

Another way to grout is to rub the seams with a damp sponge for washing cars. In this case, the seam is not quite semicircular. The main nuance when grouting with a sponge - try to press on it evenly over the entire surface.

Tile cleaning

After grouting and grouting, I wait at least 5-6 hours for the grout to harden well. The next step is to clean the tiles. This can be done in two ways:

Dry rags;

Wet rag.

I prefer to wipe the remains of the grout dry, then you can clearly see the places where there are still stains.

That's all. Separately, I will talk about how to cut holes in the tile for water pipe fittings, seal the seams with silicone, install faucets, sanitary ware and more.

Laying tiles without seams is becoming increasingly popular. Debate continues as to whether seams are needed when laying ceramics.

The article is devoted to this issue and the technology of seamless laying.

Why are stitches needed?

Traditionally, tilers make identical seams between the tiles, which are then sealed with grout. The same thickness of the seam can be achieved using plastic crosses.

What is the purpose of the seams?

3 arguments opponents of tile joints

Dirt, dust collects at the joints, and over time, mold may appear from moisture.
This problem can be overcome by choosing grouts of suitable colors. For grouting floor tiles, it is better to choose gray.
Additional expenses. High-quality grout costs money, and over time, restoration of the seams may be required.
Grouting seams takes time and practice. When laying tiles, you need to make sure that the joints are clean and there is no glue in them. Otherwise, the grout will not help, and the seams will be dirty and sloppy.

Seamless laying has pros and cons, so you need to make a decision depending on the characteristics of the base, the quality of the tile and your wishes.

When laying without seams does not make sense:

Used cheap products. Cheap ceramics have differences in size, so a beautiful seamless installation will still not work.
If you lay tiles on the street. On the street, high humidity, temperature changes and atmospheric phenomena affect the tile. Ceramics will play, their size will change, so the seamless installation will not be durable.
You should not use seamless installation if you are installing tiles on a warm floor.

What is needed for seamless installation

Large quality tiles. Most often used for seamless styling. Porcelain stoneware has a moisture absorption of 0.05%, excellent frost resistance and strength characteristics. A popular size is the 600x600 format; without seams, the floor covering will appear monolithic.
Prepared base. The base must be perfectly even: a difference of 3-5 mm will lead to a warp, and a seamless laying will emphasize the unevenness.

note

For clinker, spacer crosses are used for seams, the thickness of the seam can be from 4 to 10 mm. This value should be taken into account in the calculations.

Which tile to choose

Laying technology

Foundation preparation

The base must be cleaned of dust, dirt, grease or oil stains. Drops greater than 1 mm are excluded. A perfectly flat surface can be achieved through the use of self-leveling compounds. Such mixtures help to remove even millimeters of difference.

The base must be solid, concrete screed is best. If you decide to lay on a wooden floor, you need to make sure that the base is strong.

It should not spring, because this will cause deformation of the lining. The best option is to fill the reinforcing mesh over the wooden floor.

And although the tiles are laid, high-quality seamless masonry cannot be done.

Porcelain stoneware of large formats is used: 600x600. This minimizes the number of joints and seams. The tiles must have cut ends.

Before starting work, markup is carried out. You need to decide what kind of styling will be.
The glue is applied to the floor, the thickness of the layer is adjusted with a notched trowel, which will remove the excess.
Lay down the first piece. Fit the next tile as closely as possible to the already laid tile. Make sure that there are no voids under the tiles, and that the thickness of the adhesive is in accordance with the recommendations from the manufacturer.

note

If there are voids under the tile or a large thickness of glue, the lining will not be durable. The adhesive will shrink over time, so the lining will come down. Seamless and even lining will no longer work, and under pressure, the tile, under which there is a void, may crack.

Tile work will not do without pruning. It is more convenient to cut even strips with a tile cutter.

Make sure there is no glue left between the tiles.
Check the plane with a building level or rule. You can correct the position of the tile with a rubber mallet.
This problem can be overcome by choosing grouts of suitable colors. For grouting floor tiles, it is better to choose gray.
A perfect fit of the tile is impossible, there will be a 1 mm seam. It is rubbed with epoxy grout, which is selected to match the ceramics. It masks the seam, so that the effect of a monolithic surface is achieved.

Outcome
Seamless laying - installation of tiles with a seam up to 1 mm. Large format porcelain stoneware is best suited for this purpose. The base must be carefully prepared, it must be perfectly flat.

Applying the tips from the article, you can achieve excellent results.

The popularity of tiling is due to the sufficient speed of tiling and the ideal surface of the tile. Today, impeccably smooth edges and the matching dimensions of expensive imported tiles, porcelain stoneware and lithoceramics allow you to get an impeccable surface using seamless installation. Laying tiles without seams - this is only possible on a perfect surface without defects. Today, craftsmen work using materials with an evenly cut edge, exactly matching in size, practically not subject to expansion and freezing.

What is the difference between seamless technology and conventional tiling?

Tiles are a universal piece building and finishing material that gives an impeccable finish to floors and walls. The advantages of tiled decoration were appreciated by ancient builders, using it in the decoration of temples, palaces and houses of the nobility. For this we used:

flat pebbles;
hewn shell rock;
lump marble;
granite slabs;
layers of decorative ornamental stone;
handmade ceramic tiles.

The same analogues are used today. But in those days it was difficult to make a tile of the ideal size and shape that would match up to a millimeter. It was not easy to cut the stone, so no one introduced seamless technology. But the ancient buildings still impress with their quality fit of hewn stone and marble processing.

To finish the bathroom and kitchen, they recently used ordinary ceramic tiles, which tend to expand - due to the peculiarity of the clay in the base. I had to leave wide seams due to the expansion of the tile.

It was also necessary to take into account the fact that tiles from one pack did not always exactly match in size, not to mention regrading or tiles from different batches. This had to be reckoned with in exterior and interior decoration with the use of ceramic tiles without seams.

Such expansion is less susceptible to modern materials - porcelain stoneware and lithoceramics. They have a denser texture and sufficient hardness, a specially processed edge for a perfect fit. High-quality tiles today are the same size, but this does not exclude minimal seams and the use of grout or sealant.

Before starting work, it is important to make sure that the purchased material is suitable for laying end-to-end, judging by the edge. For the technology of laying tiles without seams, the edges must be prepared, that is, rectified. Such laying saves time and greatly simplifies the work, but it is possible on a perfectly smooth surface. A flawless monolithic surface is a tile without seams.

Properties of lithoceramics and porcelain stoneware

1. Lithoceramic - a natural material, a cut of natural marble over a ceramic base. It is lighter than marble, but heavier than ceramic tiles, the thickness does not exceed 1 cm. The tile is produced in Spain, it is cheaper than natural stone, but has the same decorative properties, ideal for the seamless method. It is hard and wear-resistant, resistant to impacts, scratches and other mechanical stress.

As you know, Spanish marble is famous all over the world for its large range of colors, ideal for cladding:

floors;
walls;
steps;
terraces and paths at the porch.

Lithoceramics has 3 standards - with small defects covered with grout, an economy version with minor chips on chamfers and corners, as well as elite tiles. The latter variety usually goes for laying tiles without seams. Lithoceramics are produced with chamfers and without chamfers, that is, seamless.

2. Porcelain stoneware is classified by experts as the most durable finishing material of artificial origin, which in many other respects surpasses tiles and other finishes. Modern technologies allow you to recreate the pattern of any natural material. This is an environmentally friendly high-temperature firing clay-based material with mineral additives.

This facing material is homogeneous throughout the entire layer of tiles, surpasses some types of marble and granite in hardness. Porcelain stoneware is produced with an even cut along the edges, therefore it is often used for laying tiles without seams. It has 1 drawback - it is difficult to cut it when laying it due to its high hardness, especially when you need to chip off a strip of 1-2 cm. There is a possibility to choose the surface of porcelain stoneware, depending on the design tasks.

Porcelain stoneware does not have such an indicator as water absorption, therefore it does not expand with temperature fluctuations. Due to its high frost resistance, it is used for exterior cladding:

foundation,
porch,
steps.

For interior decoration, porcelain stoneware is used much more often. High strength and resistance to solvents allows the use of porcelain stoneware for rooms with aggressive environments. Its aesthetic possibilities are endless, especially for patterned and mosaic layouts. All this is possible due to the fact that the tiles are produced:

different shapes and sizes;
in a large range of colors;
with printed pattern and without it;
homogeneous structure and interspersed with different colors.

Tip: If you want to use a beautiful and high-strength material, then before laying tiles without seams, pay attention to these materials.

Attention: When laying any type of tile seamlessly, it is important to read the instructions that come with the purchase. Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations - construction adhesive or mixtures, cutting and laying tools, grout or sealant, etc.

Advantages of seamless laying:

homogeneous seamless surface is the most attractive, including colored or patterned;
the surface is the most hygienic, since it does not accumulate dirt and mold, simplifying maintenance;
a fast laying process that does not require care for maintaining an equal gap on the seams.

Among the minuses can be called the inappropriateness of seamless laying in places of seismic activity, in new houses with shrinkage. The tile may fall off, the surface is deformed. A seamless surface implies a minimum gap with a grout of a common color with the tile.

Do not lay tiles on damp or dirty surfaces. You can only use a completely dry, even and clean base, where all defects have previously been puttied. Self-levelling concrete screed is the ideal base for seamless tiling on the floor.

Patterned seamless tiling

To date, many schemes for laying tile coatings have been developed, but they are not always suitable for seamless installation. This is due to the fact that it is the seams that form a periodically repeating pattern. Floor tiles without seams form exquisite patterns - due to the contrasting colors of porcelain stoneware, marble and other facing materials.

As you know, on a large floor area it is not recommended to lay plain tiles throughout the room, this creates a feeling of emptiness. Therefore, different types of styling are used:

chess;
ladder;
mosaic;
squares or circles;
herringbone;
a frame around the perimeter and a rosette in the center;
rows, etc.

Complex mosaic patterns and rosettes look great when laying porcelain stoneware tiles on a seamless floor, but only professionals can lay and fine-tune when cutting. They develop a complex pattern on a computer, select materials by color and cut tiles with an accuracy of 1 mm by waterjet cutting in the workshops.

Tip: Use the services of branded porcelain stoneware cutting offered by specialists. It is enough to order a colored rosette 1-3 meters in diameter, laid in a square, and then continue with the usual installation.

In the same way, you can put on the wall and tile without seams, but here the illusion of "seamlessness" is created by the exact observance of rows horizontally and vertically and the match of the color of the grout with the tile.

Attention: Only a perfectly cut edge is suitable for seamless technology to achieve a monolithic effect. Each fragment of the coating must be of the correct geometry, of the same size, with a minimum error.

On the walls for technology without seams suitable tiles with evenly cut edges without chamfer, rectified. That is, the cut must be perpendicular to the surface, without gaps, roundings, chips and defects. It costs more, but there is no culling. Rectification is carried out after firing tiles:

matte;
glazed;
structured;
polished.

Not every tool will take porcelain stoneware, and a regular tile cutter is only suitable for ceramic tiles. For hard tiles, waterjet cutting is needed, which does not give chips.

How to choose a finishing material?

Tiles are selected not only in accordance with their preferences, but also according to their purpose - slippery polished tiles are not suitable for the bathroom, but only for the hall. For the kitchen, it is also undesirable to choose slippery tiles, only rough ones, so as not to accidentally slip with hot water. To fill the joints, silicone and epoxy grout, silicone sealant or sealant are used.

The size of the tile is selected in accordance with the size of the area - it is desirable that a certain number of tiles fit into the perimeter of the area without cutting. If a few centimeters are missing, they can be hidden under the baseboard and curb, and it is difficult to cut off the extra 1-2 cm from porcelain stoneware. When buying, always check the batch number so that several packages match. This is the only way to guarantee consistency in shade and size.

Porcelain stoneware, like any tile, is always bought with a margin, taking into account:

detection of marriage in the package;
part of the tile may deteriorate when cutting;
adjustment will be required.

If a colored mosaic laying is planned, then before laying the tiles without seams, at the purchase stage, take an interest in the hardware store for the remnants of other batches. It is quite possible that it will be possible to choose an excellent material for an outlet or a panel, while you can save a lot. Remaining prices are reduced by up to 40%, but it must be a suitable rectified tile of the same size. But it’s not worth buying more leftovers from another batch, most likely, you won’t be able to pick up tiles exactly in color and texture, with the exception of black or white.

Technology of seamless laying of tiles on the floor

If you do not know how to glue tiles without seams, then you should carefully study all the intricacies of the process. The technology of seamless laying of tiled materials does not imply the absence of seams as such. But a well-placed layer of tiles with a properly selected grout guarantees a smooth, uniform surface.

Tip: For patterned laying, it is recommended to lay the tiles dry on any surface in order to visually evaluate. Perhaps there will be a more interesting option. In this order, it is laid, observing the row and exact coincidence of the seams. With a homogeneous surface, preliminary laying is not necessary, but it is worth checking the coincidence of the shade of the tiles from different packages. If the difference is noticeable, and there is no way to replace it, then darker porcelain stoneware is laid at the baseboard around the perimeter.

A pre-prepared horizontal floor surface or a vertical wall is a guarantee of impeccable installation. The tiles are laid with a suitable adhesive or mortar recommended for tiling. Seamless laying is possible only on a perfectly flat surface. The smoother the prepared work surface and the smaller the "drifts" of glue, the more immaculate and monolithic the laid surface will come out.

Rectified tiles (without a chamfer) will have to be laid as close as possible to each other in order to minimize the tile joint. Tiles are chosen in a standard size and shape - square or rectangular. A notched trowel is used to apply the adhesive base. Each piece of masonry is adjusted with a rubber mallet.

The tile should be wiped from factory dust and moistened with a back part before laying, if the adhesive requires it. It is important to rely not on your experience in laying tiles, but on recommendations on the technology of cladding with the selected material. The choice of adhesive or mortar affects the quality of the seamless installation.

A binder two-component solution is prepared in a small amount (for a row or two). The recommended adhesive should not be applied in excess so that it shows through at the edges after pressing. It should be enough for a full application, and experience is needed. There should be no excess air under the tiles, so it is advised to work with a notched trowel. The glue is applied to the tile a little, evenly distributing it with a notched trowel, which is held at an angle. After 3-4 tiles, the optimal amount of glue will already be obvious.

They begin to lay from the corner remote from the door, bringing the rows closer to the entrance. The tile is applied with glue to the wall or floor and lightly pressed down. Tap with a rubber mallet until the piece fits perfectly. The level checks the horizontal along and across. Then, in the same order, complete the first row.

The second row should adjoin end-to-end with the exact match of the seams, so the first row is important, which will become the standard. In the same way, lay the rest of the tile, checking the horizontal. Residues of glue that have appeared on the seams are immediately removed with a rag. When the glue dries (the period is indicated in the instructions on the package), the minimum gaps at the seams are closed with a grout of a suitable color using a spatula. Wipe off excess with a damp sponge.

Attention: Although the laying of tiles on the floor is carried out from a remote corner, but for some reason this is done in a different order. To move around the room, plywood shields are used to cross them. Sheets of plywood must be removed and make sure that the laid tiles have not moved. On the walls, tiles are laid from the plinth in portions until the glue sets.

After the first row, the seams should exactly match the previous installation, and it is better to leave a little gap under the baseboard. If during the work a slight curvature of the walls is found, then with a small gap near the wall this will not affect the quality of the finish. With the ideal perimeter of the room, the tiles on the floor are laid close to the wall.

If the number of tiles does not match in length, and you have to cut them, then it is better to do the laying in such a way that a number of cut fragments go under furniture or plumbing equipment. In a small bathroom, sometimes it makes sense to lay from the door or corner under the bathroom to hide the cut tiles and leave an unfinished row and close with mortar.

High-quality seamless porcelain stoneware flooring looks like a solid surface, but this does not preclude the use of the patterned laying method. When laying facade tiles seamlessly, the same technology is used, but clinker tiles, marbled porcelain tiles, natural stone and other facing materials can be used. On the intricacies of laying tiles without seams, see the video:

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