Steam engine with your own hands. Second option. Homemade two-cylinder steam engine Making a steam engine with your own hands


Hello to you kompik92!
And this is the second part of creating a steam engine!
Here it is presented more difficult option which is more powerful and interesting! Although it requires more funds and tools. But as they say: "The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing"! So let's get started!

I think everyone who has seen my past posts already knows what will happen now. Do not know?

Safety regulations:

  1. When the engine is running and you want to move it, use tongs, thick gloves, or a non-conductive material!
  2. If you want to make an engine harder or more powerful, it's better to learn from someone than to experiment! Incorrect assembly may cause the boiler to explode!
  3. If you want to take a running engine, don't point the steam at people!
  4. Do not block the steam in the can or tube, the steam engine may explode!
Is everything clear?
Let's get started!

Everything we need is here:

  • Jar with a capacity of 4 liters (best well washed)
  • Bank with a capacity of 1 liter
  • 6 meters copper pipe from with a diameter (from now on "dm")6mm
  • metal tape
  • 2 tubes that are easy to squeeze.
  • Circle-shaped metal junction box (well, it doesn't look like a circle...)
  • Cable tie that can be connected to the junction box.
  • Copper tube with a length of 15 centimeters and a diameter of 1.3 centimeters
  • Metal mesh 12 by 24 cm
  • 35 centimeters of elastic plastic tube with dm 3 mm
  • 2 clamps for plastic tubes
  • Coal (only the best)
  • Standard BBQ skewer
  • Dowel made of wood with a length of 1.5 cm and dm 1.25 cm (with a hole on one side)
  • Screwdriver (Phillips)
  • Drill with different drills
  • metal hammer
  • Metal shears
  • Pliers
Uhh.. It's going to be hard... Okay, let's get started!

1. Make a rectangle in the jar. Cut out a rectangle using pliers on the wall with an area of ​​15cm by 5cm near the bottom. We made a hole for our firebox, this is where we will set fire to the coal.


2. Set up a grid Bend the legs near the net so that the legs are 6 cm long each, and then put it on the leg inside the jar. This will be the charcoal separator.


3. Ventilation. Make semicircular holes around the perimeter on the lid, use pliers. For a good fire, you need plenty of air and good ventilation.


4. We make a coil. Make a coil from a copper tube 6 meters long, measure from the end of the tube 30 cm, and from this place measure 5 skeins of dm 12 cm. Make the rest of the tube 15 skeins of 8 cm each. You will have another 20 cm.


5. Attaching the coil. Secure the coil through the vent. With the help of a coil, we will heat the water.


6. We load the coal. Load the charcoal and put the coil in the top jar and close the lid well. You will often have to change this coal.


7. Making holes. Use a drill to make holes with dm 1 cm in liter jar. Place them: in the middle on top, and two more holes on the side with the same dm on the same vertical line, one just above the base and one not far from the lid.


8. Secure the tubes. Make holes with a diameter slightly smaller than your layer. tubes through both plugs. Then cut the plastic tube into 25 and 10 cm, and then fasten the tubes into the corks, and squeeze them into the holes of the cans, and then clamp them with a clamp. We made the inlet and outlet of the coil, water comes from the bottom, and steam comes out of the top.


9. Installation of tubes. Put a small one on a large jar and fasten the upper 25 cm wire to the passage of the coil to the left of the firebox, and a small 10 cm wire to its right exit. Then fasten them well with metal tape. We fixed the tube outlets to the coil.


10. We fix the fixing box. Using a screwdriver and a hammer, unhook the middle of the round metal box. Lock the cable tie with the circlip. Attach a 15 cm copper pipe with 1.3 cm dm to the clamp so that the copper pipe comes out a couple of cm below the hole in the box. Round the edges of the outgoing end inward using a hammer to 1 centimeter. Fasten the reduced end into the top hole of the small jar.


11. Add a dowel. Use a standard barbecue wood skewer and attach either end to the dowel. Insert this design into the top copper tube. We made a piston that will rise when there is too much steam in a small jar, by the way, you can add another flag for beauty.


12. Preparatory actions. Remove the fixing box for a while and pour ⅔ of water into the top jar (about 0.3333 liters) check that there are no leaks anywhere, Close the lids firmly (preferably with a hammer) and put the fixing box (also with a hammer) in place.

And in the shortest possible time you can make the simplest steam generator. Such a device is capable of generating electric current from almost any fuel, including move will go everything that burns. It can be sticks, solid alcohol, a candle, bark from trees, dry grass, and so on. You can take a similar generator with you when going on a camping trip. It can be charged mobile phone or light a couple of LEDs for illumination.
The engine is single-piston, with a spool.

Assembly materials and tools:
- a piece of tube from a television or radio antenna, with a diameter of at least 8 mm;
- a small tube for creating a piston pair (can be bought at a plumbing store);
- copper wire (diameter 1.5 mm, can be found in coils or bought);
- nuts, bolts and screws;
- lead for making a flywheel (can be found in old car batteries, fishing tackle or buy);
- wooden bars;
- spokes from a bicycle;
- plywood or textolite to create a stand;
- a tube;
- a jar of olives or similar.


Of the tools you will need: a hacksaw, emery, a soldering iron, epoxy, cold welding, superglue, a drill.

Steam generator manufacturing process:

Step one. circuit diagram generator
The diagram shows how the mechanism works. That is, it is a crank, which is connected to the piston through a connecting rod. The system also has a valve (spool) that opens and closes one of the two channels. When the piston is at the bottom dead center, the spool opens the channel and pressurized steam enters the cylinder. Reaching top dead point, the spool shuts off the steam supply, and opens the cylinder to release steam to the outside, the piston then drops. Classical reciprocating movements are converted by a crank into rotation of the generator shaft.



Step two. How to make a cylinder and spool tube
Three pieces should be cut from the antenna tube, the first should be 38 mm long and 8 mm in diameter. This will be the cylinder. The second piece should be 30 mm long and 4 mm in diameter. The third piece should be 6 mm long and 4 mm thick.


In the second tube, you need to make a hole with a diameter of 4 mm, it should be in the center. The third tube must be glued perpendicular to the second, superglue is used for this. When the glue dries, everything is smeared on top cold welding.

To the third piece you need to attach metal washer, after drying, you also need to fix everything with cold welding. When the welding dries, the seams must be processed from above epoxy resin for maximum strength and tightness.

Step three. Piston and connecting rod manufacturing
The piston is made from a bolt with a diameter of 7 mm. To do this, it must be fixed in a vice and wound on top. copper wire, in total you need to make about 6 turns, depending on the diameter of the wire. The wire is then impregnated with epoxy resin. The excess end of the bolt can be cut off. Further, when the resin dries, you need to work sandpaper to fit the piston to the cylinder bore. As a result, the piston should move easily, but it should not let air through.

To mount the connecting rod on the piston, you need to make a special bracket, it is made of sheet aluminum. It must be bent in the form of the letter “P”, holes are drilled at the edges, the diameter of the hole must be such that a bicycle spoke can be inserted into it. The bracket is glued to the piston.


As for the connecting rod, it is made from bicycle spokes, on its edges pieces of tubes from the antenna are installed with a length and a diameter of 3 mm. As for the length, the distance between the centers of the connecting rod is 50 mm. The connecting rod is connected to the piston pivotally, using a "U"-shaped bracket, as well as a piece of a bicycle spoke. To prevent the needle from falling out, it must be glued at both ends.


The triangle crank is made in a similar way, but here there will be a piece of knitting needle on one side and a tube on the other. The length of such a connecting rod is 75 mm.

Step four. Spool and triangle
The triangle must be cut out of a sheet of metal, three holes are drilled in it. As for the spool piston, its length is 3.5 mm, it is necessary to achieve its free movement in the spool tube. The length of the rod can be different, it all depends on the flywheel.

Supports are best made from bars, they are selected individually. As for the piston rod crank, it should be 8 mm, and the spool crank is 4 mm.


Step five. Steam boiler. The final stage
As a cauldron, the author used an olive pan with a sealed lid. In order for water to be poured into the boiler, a nut must be soldered to the lid, a bolt is used as a lid. You need to solder the tube to the lid.






Subsequently, the engine is assembled on a wooden platform, props are used for each element. How the engine works can be seen in the video.

Below you can see what the engine will look like if it is slightly modified. The tank now has individual platform, as well as a saucer on which dry fuel is placed.

Even if an athlete already has a wealth of experience in creating ship models-copies, all the same, when designing a new microvessel, he inevitably faces a problem - which engine to put on a future copy! Heating or compression - there will be problems with fuel, noise suppression and vibrations. Electric! But it is not without drawbacks, especially given the large mass of electric accumulators.

And why not take the most colorful path and use a real miniature steam engine on copies, for example, of steamboats! An attempt to implement this initially seemingly difficult idea brought very interesting results.

First of all - directly about the engine (in steam plant includes many more large nodes). It is easier to make it on the basis of any of the model ICEs of sufficient working volume. By the way, such a motor as the “Kometa” MD-5, which has long established itself in a regular glowing performance as completely inoperable, is well suited for these purposes. For the steam version, it is best to make a new cylinder liner and make only outlet windows in it for steam to escape. Bypass (purge) windows are not needed - in their absence, the motor crankcase will be closed, which will allow maintaining a sufficient amount of oil in the crankcase volume during operation of the unit.

The next stage of work on the steam power plant is the manufacture of two tanks: for water and gasoline or another liquid fuel. The water tank is soldered from thick sheet brass or stainless steel with a thickness of at least 0.8-1 mm (in extreme cases, thick roofing iron is suitable). The choice of material is due to the fact that the water tank will be under the same pressure during the operation of the installation as the entire steam system. The fuel tank may not be as strong and smaller in volume. Its dimensions are selected in a practical way.

One of the most important components of the installation is a steam boiler. Its design is clear from the drawings, and everyone can choose materials and technologies for manufacturing boiler elements based on their own wishes and capabilities.

1 - fuel supply pipe (copper, Ø 3 mm), 2 - heat exchanger-evaporator, 3 - nozzle supply pipe (copper, Ø 3 mm), 4 - steam extraction pipe, 5 - water evaporator (tube Ø 3-4 mm) , 6 - blinds for supplying air to the flame, 7 - nozzle, 8 - nozzle mounting unit, 9 - lower chamber, 10 - water supply pipe to the evaporator, 11 - housing-pipe.

Heat exchanger - fuel vaporizer can be made from a copper box from an old barometer or in the form of a coil of thin copper tube. The fuel spray nozzle is converted from a toilet sprayer.

1 - steam supply pipe from the boiler to the engine, 2 - brass valve body, 3 - spring, 4 - ball valve. For the valve to work in the bottom of the engine piston, it is necessary to mount the pusher rod in the center, which, when the piston approaches the top dead center, must press the ball-valve up, thus letting in the next portion of steam under pressure.

1 - body (roofing iron or sheet brass), 2 - filler neck (closes hermetically), 3 - valve (nipple from a bicycle or motorcycle), 4 - consumable tap valve.

Preparation for testing a steam engine is not difficult. Machine oil is poured into the crankcase of the converted internal combustion engine; a plug is inserted into the standard carburetor diffuser (the oil must be changed after about 50 hours of machine operation). The tanks are filled accordingly with water (preferably distilled, which will prevent the formation of scale in steam system) and gasoline of any brand. Both tanks are hermetically sealed. Then, an ignited tablet of dry alcohol is placed in the lower part of the steam boiler, and air is pumped into them through the nipples soldered into the tanks, creating excess pressure. Now you can open the consumable taps-valves. After some time, when the fuel evaporation heat exchanger warms up, the flame system of the boiler will switch to automatic mode, constantly supplying gasoline under pressure to the nozzle nozzle. To make the engine work, it is enough to turn its crankshaft a couple of times. Motor speed is controlled by water supply and flame height.

How to make a steam engine


Mechanical engineering began with the production of a steam engine. This was the start for the development of modern cars. So why not go back to the roots and feel like the first inventor of the motor? Plus, you can do it yourself at home.

Engine manufacturing technology

Before you start designing your creation, you need to prepare materials that may come in handy, as well as learn some instructions in order to have an idea on how to make a steam engine. It's not very simple task but it can be resolved.

Of course, it will not work to invent a motor for a functioning steam locomotive, but a small home steam motor will definitely work. There are several ways to build a homemade steam engine. For those who decide to try themselves in a home workshop for the first time, you can make a simple but working engine.

  1. To make a steam engine with your own hands, you need 2 cans of canned corn. The sizes fit perfectly. Take both containers, cut off their lids. One jar is not needed, it can be thrown away. All it needs is a lid. The second jar needs to be cleaned in place of the cut of the lid. This can be done with a file. If there is a "grinder", use it to clean the cut. Now clean the edges of both covers in the same way.
  2. Take the nut. You need to pick up a bolt for it. Prepare a metal tube. Cut a hole in the cover into which you want to embed the nut, attach a bolt to it. The distance between the cap and the nut, if any, must be soldered. You also need to make another hole for the tube. As a result, it should turn out like this: a cover with a built-in nut and tube.
  3. Take a jar prepared in advance. Solder a fixture to it, consisting of a cover, nut and metal tube. The boiler for the engine is ready.
  4. Now you need to prepare the turbine. To do this, take the second prepared cover from tin can. In the middle of this circle, you need to cut a hole, along the edge - cuts. You need to cut it so that it looks like a flower. It is not necessary to cut to the center of the cover. Just cut a little - 2-3 centimeters. Now from this cover you need to make a semblance of a fan. To do this, you need to bend the tin in places in the middle of the slots.
  5. It is necessary to prepare a handle for the turbine. This can be done with an iron plate. It should look like a ruler about 10 centimeters. It needs to be bent, making the letter “p” out of this plate. Now make holes on the "legs" of the bent plate. Check that these holes should be through, exactly opposite each other.
  6. Now you need to weld the turbine to the boiler. To do this, you need to prepare an iron tube. It must be attached to the hole that was prepared on the cover - the turbine. Then you need to identify an iron rod in the tube. It should be thinner than the diameter of the tube. Insert the ends of the rod into the holes on the handle - the iron letter "p". Solder.
  7. Now you need to connect all the available parts of the motor. Take a pre-prepared cauldron. The iron tube, which is located on the boiler lid, should "look" at the turbine blades, while not covering the place where the nut is located. Weld on.
  8. Now how to make a homemade steam engine so that it comes into action? Pour water into the newly made boiler through the "nut" hole. Seal this hole with a bolt. Now you need to bring the water in the boiler to a boil. The steam that will come out of the tube in the boiler will make the turbine spin. Now you have a small but fully functional steam engine.

You can find some details on how to make a steam engine, videos and other notes on the Internet on thematic sites and various blogs.

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