Drill - characteristics, application, do-it-yourself manufacturing. Instructions for assembling a homemade drill Do-it-yourself hand drill: manufacturing instructions

Many home craftsmen are interested in the question of whether a drill can be made by hand. It is not difficult to solve this problem, while the finished homemade device for all the simplicity of its design, it will differ enough high efficiency and functionality.

A homemade drill will be inexpensive and will not cause any problems during manufacture. It will be useful in many situations, including when performing such technological operations as:

• drilling;
• drilling holes;
• processing of grooves and recesses of various configurations;
• engraving;
• polishing;
• cutting of plastic products;
• cutting non-ferrous sheet metal (aluminum, brass, bronze, etc.) up to 1.5 mm thick.

The drill, made according to the instructions below, is compact in size, light in weight and easy to use. Such a do-it-yourself device at home is equally successfully used to perform small and fairly serious work with products made of various materials- metal, wood, plastic, bone, etc. Such a drill is very useful in jewelry, when repairing small items for various purposes, manufacturing and repair of electrical devices and in many other situations.

What you need

How to make a drill with your own hands? You can use various options her designs. As the main working element of such a device, it is very convenient to use the nozzles that were equipped with old-style dental drills. Such a nozzle, as a rule, is initially mounted on a flexible shaft, from which it must be removed by unscrewing its spring. From the bottom of the dismantled nozzle for the drill, a not too wide ring should be cut off, which will play the role of a nut used to fix the entire device on the plate. In addition, by cutting off such a ring, you will free the end of the shaft on which the gear will be mounted.

On the nozzles for the engraver, made by hand in the proposed design, you can install Various types interchangeable tool holders. Such holders may in particular be:

• straight;
• with lateral arrangement of the tool;
• with curved working head.

More versatile are straight type holders, which are used in 90% of cases. In situations where the location of the processed element does not allow the use of straight holders, they turn to curved type nozzles and with a side position of the tool.

Having chosen working nozzles from an old drill to equip your homemade engraver, keep in mind that they can only be used in conjunction with a tool with a shank diameter of 2.35 mm. At the same time, tools intended for installation in straight-type holders are distinguished by an elongated shank. Shanks of burs installed in angle holders are shorter and have a special groove (slot).

Application homemade nozzles for an engraver from an old drill has a number of advantages. The main one is that you can buy such a drill for very little money, since such devices are practically not used in modern dentistry. Finding and buying tools to equip such nozzles is also not a problem.

Assembling a homemade device

To be able to use the nozzle from an old drill to perform small jobs with metal, plastic, wood and bone products, it is necessary to make a device with which such a nozzle will be powered by a small electric motor of the required power. As a drive motor for homemade drill you can use a small, but resourceful and powerful motor from an ordinary hair dryer or an old VCR.

Various sizes of plastic gears can be used to transfer torque from the electric motor to the shaft of the engraver attachment. Such gears, in particular, are equipped with gearboxes of children's clockwork toys, as well as kinematic diagrams household appliances for various purposes. Choosing such gear wheels, it is very important to ensure that they match each other in number, shape of teeth and outer diameter. To increase the power of the working nozzle of a home-made drill, it is necessary to fix a gear of a larger diameter on its shaft, and fix a gear of a smaller diameter on the shaft of the drive motor.

The diameters of the mounting holes in the gears that you select to equip the drive mechanism of your homemade drill will most likely not correspond to the dimensions of the motor shafts and the working nozzle. This problem is solved quite simply: by drilling mounting holes of the required diameter in the gears. To ensure a snug and secure fit plastic gears on the shafts of the motor and the nozzle of the engraver, holes should be drilled with a smaller diameter (by 0.1–0.2 mm) than the dimensions of the shafts themselves.

The drive unit of your homemade drill, consisting of an electric motor, two gears and the tail of the nozzle shaft, will work correctly and without failures if all elements of such a mechanism are securely fixed in the appropriate position. To solve this problem allows the simplest fixture, made of an aluminum plate with a thickness of 2 mm. Such a plate can be given absolutely any configuration (the main thing is that it does not create inconvenience when working with a home-made drill).

Two holes must be drilled in the mounting plate, one of which is designed to accommodate the electric motor, and the second is to fix the working nozzle. It is very important to correctly calculate the distance between the centers of such holes, which should be equal to the distance between the axes of the two gears used, which are meshed with each other. If such a distance is calculated and maintained correctly during drilling, then the gears in the process of using a home-made drill will rotate without jamming and slipping through the teeth. If the hole in the mounting plate, in which the working nozzle of the drill will be fixed, is made in the form of an ellipse, it is possible to level the errors made when performing the above calculations.

In order for the mutual rotation of the drive gears to be easier, a small gap (0.1–0.2 mm) should be provided between their teeth in the engaged state. The strict perpendicularity of the axes of their mounting holes to their side surface helps to avoid horizontal runout of such gears during rotation.

The assembly of a homemade drill and its combination with a nozzle for an engraver are performed in the following sequence:

1. The tail part of the working nozzle is fixed on the mounting plate using a pre-prepared nut.
2. The drive motor is fixed with two screws connecting its housing to the mounting plate.
3. After fixing on the mounting plate of the electric motor and the working nozzle, plastic gears are put on their shafts.
4. To start using the assembled drill, on working head the tool holder must be installed and the drive motor must be connected to the power supply.
5. To make your homemade engraving machine more convenient to use, you can optionally equip it with a switch. small size and power connector.

If during the operation of such a home-made drill you are not satisfied with the fact that it can only be used in conjunction with tools whose shank diameter does not exceed 2.35 mm, then this problem can also be solved. To do this, you need to purchase a mini-drill mounted on collet, the landing hole in which has a diameter of 2.3 mm. It is necessary to insert the shank of any high-quality bur with a broken off working head into it: it is this shank that will be fixed in the clamping device of your homemade drill.

Hello. If you want to build a drill with your own hands at home, then you have come to the right place. In this article, we will consider the process of creating a drill that will indispensable assistant in the manufacture of any homemade products. At the end of the article, you will find a video that clearly shows the entire manufacturing process.

Such a drill can work perfectly with materials such as fiberboard, MDF, wood, plywood, plastics, soft metals. In general, with this tool you can do everything the same as with a conventional factory drill.

The principle of operation of the drill

This homemade product will work with a 12 volt brushless electric motor.

Drill motor

As a case, we will use a 2-inch pvc pipe, inner size which matches the size of the engine. The whole thing will be powered by lithium polymer batteries with a total voltage of 7.4 volts.

Materials required for the manufacture of a drill

To make a drill with our own hands, we need the following parts and tools:

The process of making a drill with your own hands

Since the shaft of our engine is 3 mm, for its operation, we need to pick up a collet chuck.

collet chuck set

It’s good that all these delhi can be bought cheaply on aliexpress, but how to save money at the same time, I described in.

On the engine, the chuck is fixed with a screw that is tightened with a hex wrench. It must be remembered that engine speed can reach greater values, so a good cartridge fixation is very necessary here.

Manufacturing of the body of the drill

The body of our drill will be made of PVC pipes. The length of the body will be 15 centimeters. You can also choose your sizes.

A tube to be used as a drill body

To cut such pipes, it is easiest to use a hacksaw.

The process of cutting a pipe with a hacksaw blade

After the necessary piece of pipe is cut off, its edges must be deburred. For these purposes, you can use sandpaper, which will easily remove all burrs on the workpiece.

The engine housing should enter the pipe for a fee. If there are gaps, they can subsequently be eliminated using gaskets made of rubber or other material.

In the center of the plugs, it is necessary to make holes, in one it will be intended for the cartridge collet, in the other for the battery charging socket.

Stubs

Also, it is necessary to make a hole in the housing for the subsequent installation of the switch.

Engine installation

First of all, it is necessary to prepare one of the plugs for installing the engine, namely to expand (if necessary) the central hole for the cartridge, and make two holes for the fixing bolts.

Engine mounting holes

Before installation, it is necessary to solder the wires to the motor. To do this, use a soldering iron and solder. Use wires not of small section, as not small currents will flow through the motor.

The process of soldering wires to the engine

After soldering, you can install the engine in the pipe. We fasten the engine to the plug, and glue the plug itself to the pipe. What to glue, a rhetorical question. I prefer super glue with baking soda, but epoxy can also be used.

Final engine installation

Power supply for drill

As mentioned earlier, lithium polymer batteries are used in the homemade product. However, lithium-ion batteries can easily be used instead. You can take them from an old laptop battery, but it's best to use new batteries.

The operating voltage of a lithium polymer battery is about 3.7 volts, and that of a lithium ion battery is 3.6 volts. We will connect our batteries in series, which means that the voltages will be summed up. As a result, the voltage will be 7.4 volts for lithium polymer batteries, and 7.2 for lithium ion battery. This voltage is enough to run our engine.

It should be remembered that batteries are afraid of overheating. They need to be soldered very quickly, it is ideal to use spot welding. For soldering, you need to use soldering acid and a 100W soldering iron, as it will heat up the soldering area faster.

Via insulating tape, twist the batteries together, as shown in the picture below.

We set the batteries relative to each other like this

We solder one side of the batteries with a jumper (plus we solder with a minus), solder two wires to the other side.

Putting it all together

Next, you need to collect all the elements together. Through the switch, we solder the engine to the batteries, and solder the charging connector directly to the batteries. it must be remembered that the central output of the socket is connected to the plus, the other to the minus.

You can see all the nuances of the assembly in the video instructions for assembling the drill.

Video instructions for assembling a drill with your own hands

Thank you all for watching and until new homemade products !!!

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Today I decided to continue the topic of homemade mini drills, mini drills, mini cutters, etc.

We are talking about a tool that is very easy to manufacture, which can easily perform all the above operations - i.e. do engraving, reaming, drilling, cutting plastic, non-ferrous sheet metal - aluminum, brass, bronze up to 1.5 mm thick, etc.

This is a truly universal drill, which, with its small dimensions, is very convenient to use, fits well in the hand and is quite capable of performing serious work with plastic, wood, bone, metal and other materials.

For more than 3 years I have been using my mini drill at work and, I confess, it has helped me earn a lot of money when repairing miniature items such as glasses, various jewelry (polishing a product) and other jobs where fine processing of parts is necessary before soldering or for more strong connection mini bolts.

So, here is a photo of my minibormashinka:

The main element of my mini drill, as you probably already understood, is the end of the flexible shaft of an old drill (pictured)

Namely, its final part (in the photo), for this you need to unscrew the spring of the flexible shaft and get this element (in the photo below, which must be cut off to get a nut for attaching to the plate and free the shaft for the gear attachment:

and nozzles (replaceable holder of dental burs), which come in the following modifications:

I personally use the straight bit most of the time, although there are some problems with small parts repair where you can only get to the repair site with a rectangular bur holder (luckily I have all three configurations of bits), but again I will say that in 90 % of cases, a straight (medium in the photo) nozzle is used.

In these nozzles, or tips (as they are also called), burs with a diameter of 2.35 mm are still used. Here they are in the photo:

These are straight burrs.
For contra-angle tips (nozzles) - burs are shorter and with a slot (groove) at the end. (I did not show you short burs, as they are used very rarely, and functionally they are exactly the same as long burs).

Such a dental instrument was used even under our grandfathers. Now these flexible shafts and the tips are completely different, pneumatic, with air supply, etc., but there are a lot of such as I have left in my homemade product, besides, they are almost never used, and it’s easy to get them (in medical equipment stores or from friends dentists).

To be honest, I got them for free during the liquidation of the dental office at our enterprise in 2004.

So, after 8 years of keeping this "gadget", I decided to make it a tool that is very necessary for any DIYer.

First of all, I decided to compactly fit an electric motor of the required power, but with small dimensions, to the existing end of the flexible shaft of the drill.

I found such a micromotor in an old, out of order, video recorder. (Tip: - very good multi-turn and powerful motors stand in hair dryers, which are used, basically, by all females).

I decided to use ordinary plastic gears, which are used in the gearboxes of old clockwork toys, of which, thank God, I have plenty.

You can use any other gears that match in teeth and diameter, based on your capabilities, but I strongly advise you that the gear on the electric motor be of a smaller diameter than on the end of the flexible shaft of the drill, so you will increase the power of your mini drill.

Of course, it is absolutely impossible to pick up gears for the shaft diameters I have (the end of the flexible shaft of the drill and the electric motor), but the issue was resolved very simply. I reamed mounting holes gears for the required diameters (0.1-0.2 mm less than the diameter of the shafts) and tightly planted them on the shaft of the drill and electric motor.

(in the photo I hold the nozzle and the electric motor in my hands, then they will be connected by a mounting plate).

It remains to make a plate for attaching our electric motor to the end of the flexible shaft of the drill.
For the manufacture of this mount, I used an aluminum plate 2mm thick.

It can be like this configuration, although it is not necessary, it all depends on your imagination:

The main thing, and this is very important, is to accurately drill holes in this plate.

The distance between the centers of the holes in the plate must exactly correspond to the distance between the centers of the two gears put on the shafts and aligned with each other to rotate (sorry, abstruse, but I can’t explain it easier). Like this:

This is necessary so that when the electric motor rotates, the gears easily rotate each other without jamming and without slipping through the teeth.

Although here you can make a mistake by 1-1.5 mm, which can be corrected by increasing in one direction or another (making in the form of an ellipse) the holes for the fasteners of the electric motor.

After the electric motor is fully mounted and the flexible shaft of the drill ends on our mounting plate, there should be a small gap between the gear teeth for easy rotation (0.1-0.2 mm).

And it is also very important that during rotation the gears do not have horizontal runout, i.e. holes in them must be drilled strictly perpendicular.

For inexperienced do-it-yourselfers - ideally at right angles to the surface of the gear itself.
Like this:

We fasten the electric motor with bolts to our mounting plate:

We put on, tightly, our gears and get a ready-made power unit for Homemade with the name minidrill.

We connect our nozzle for burs with a ready-made power unit and connect the power to the micromotor.

As you can see, I glued on the motor, a microswitch from some kind of hair dryer, and a power connector, which is very convenient.

Connect power and work.

P.S. A significant drawback of my mini drill, up to a certain point, was that the nozzles can only clamp dental burs or drills with a diameter of 2.35 mm, and if it was necessary to clamp, for example, a drill of a smaller or larger diameter, it was impossible to use it.

But, we, do-it-yourselfers, will always find a way out.

Here is what I did:
I bought this on Ali Express