How to fix a plastic crack. How to fix a crack in plastic. How and with what can you remove small and deep scratches from the plastic of a car, phone, glasses? Overhaul of plastic. How to seal a plastic tank or a barrel for water - the choice of an epoch

Having broken plastic bumper on a VAZ car, the owner can relatively inexpensively purchase and install a new one, painted in suitable color. The owners of foreign cars are not so lucky, plastic body kits for their cars are much more expensive. The way out is to repair the damaged part by repairing the crack with your own hands in order to save money. It is also useful for owners of Russian cars to know about ways to restore broken plastic, but not to buy a new element because of small cracks.

Crack Filling Methods

Depending on the amount of damage and the type of plastic, the following cracked bumper methods are practiced:

• cosmetic bonding with acetone and donor plastic;
• gluing with modern chemical compounds;
• fastening on epoxy resin with the use of fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
• sealing the crack with a soldering iron reinforced with a metal mesh;
• welding with a hot air gun and a plastic rod.

Reference. There is one simple method used by car enthusiasts who do not care too much about appearance cars. This is the connection of the edges of the crack with wire or staples from a stapler. This is a simple matter, so consider this technology it makes no sense, everything is clear.

The use of acetone for bonding, which can dissolve many types of plastics, is a temporary measure used for small cracks that appear in the middle of the body kit. Its essence is this:

1. Pieces of plastic, similar in composition to the bumper material, are selected and dissolved in acetone to a thick consistency.
2. With back side the bumper crack is degreased and also treated with acetone in order to soften the surface.
3. The liquefied plastic is applied to the damage with reverse side, after which it freezes for several hours. Outside, the defect can be tinted with a corrector tube.

With the help of thick two-component formulations, sold in two tubes, any single cracks in most types of plastic are repaired. The exception is fiberglass body kits, they are glued together epoxy resin, and in case of serious damage, reinforcement with fiberglass mesh is used.

With numerous large cracks, breaks and holes in the bumper, gluing methods become ineffective. In such cases, soldering or welding with a hot air gun using a donor polymer material. After such a repair, the defect site is subjected to thorough cleaning and painting in the color of the car. At the end, it is necessary to do a full polishing of the bumper so that the painted area does not stand out against the background of the old coating.

Advice. If you got into an accident or collided with an immovable obstacle and broke through the body kit, try to collect all but the smallest pieces that flew off. This will allow you to use "native" plastic for repairs and not look for something similar.

The preparatory process is little different for various ways bonding and welding of polymer parts, so it should be considered separately. The first question is whether it is necessary to remove the bumper to make repairs. In most cases, dismantling is indispensable, since the plastic must be sealed on both sides. The exception is broken body kits, cracked in many places. They must first be fastened together, and then removed. Otherwise, after repair, the part may lose its shape, which is why the attachment points will not converge, and the gaps with adjacent elements will increase.

Reference. Often the body of the bumper comes off at the attachment points and small pieces of plastic remain on the screws. Before dismantling, such a part is securely welded to the torn mount and only then removed.

To prepare a damaged body kit for repair, you need the following tools and materials:

• a set of keys and screwdrivers for removing the element;
• electric grinder;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes - from P180 to P320;
• degreasing liquid - an organic solvent or white spirit;
• rag.

Note. Via grinder you can clean up better and much faster than manually. This and other power tools that will be needed for painting and polishing can be rented for 2-3 days.

Regardless of whether work is carried out directly on the car or with the bumper removed, it must be thoroughly washed and dried. Then, with a large sandpaper, it is necessary to peel off the paint with an indent of 3-5 cm from the crack in each direction and sand the area of ​​the fine sandpaper. Whatever method of repair you choose, the paint must be removed to the base, otherwise it will interfere with the adhesion of the adhesive or the fusion of polymers during welding. At the end, the area should be degreased.

Advice. The quality of body kit repair depends on the conditions in which it is made. It is more convenient to close up damage in a garage equipped with an inspection ditch for easy removal of the part and soldering loose fasteners in place.

Bonding with a two-component composition

To implement this method, you need to purchase the following bumper repair kit from the 3M brand:

• 2 FPRM components for the preparation of a liquid polymer in tubes of 150 ml (price - about 2500 rubles);
• special hard tape;
• self-adhesive reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass (otherwise - fiberglass) 48 mm wide;
• an adhesion initiator in an aerosol can;
• 2 spatulas - wide and narrow;
• stationery knife;
• gloves, goggles.

Reference. Similar kits are offered by other manufacturers, but the 3M brand is the most well-known and proven in practice.

Bonding with liquid polymer is suitable for most plastics and can be performed both with the body kit removed and on the car. True, the second option is rather inconvenient, plus you need good lighting in viewing hole. To cut a crack, you will need an electric drill (not a grinder!) With a mandrel for abrasive wheels. Repair consists of the following technological operations:

1. With a drill running on low revs, and abrasive wheel chamfer at an angle of about 30° along the edges of the crack on both sides. In cross section, it looks like this:<».
2. Degrease the area and allow the solvent to completely evaporate. On the front side of the bumper, where the paint was already cleaned at the preparatory stage, stick adhesive tape along the entire crack. It will serve as a kind of formwork when pouring a two-component solution.
3. Treat the damage site on the rear side of the body kit with an adhesion initiator from a balloon, then apply a self-adhesive glass canvas to the split.
4. Mix the components from the tubes in a 1:1 ratio with a spatula. Apply the liquid polymer to the mesh in several thin layers to avoid air pockets. Lay the mixture until it completely hides the glass canvas.
5. After laying the composition, allow it to cure for 30 minutes, then remove the tape from the front side and repeat the embedding operation (but without the mesh).
6. After hardening, grind the area with a grinder, using sandpaper P180, P240 and P400 in turn. This completes the plastic repair and you can start painting.

Important! After mixing the components, the composition must be used within 6 minutes, which is quite enough to apply to the damage on one side. The curing time of 30 minutes is correct for a room temperature of 21-23°C, therefore, when working in a cold room, it is necessary to organize local heating of the bumper (for example, with an infrared heater).

If irregularities are noticeable on the front side of the element, then before painting, apply a little putty intended for plastic to the differences. After drying, clean it with P1500 sandpaper, degrease and paint with a spray gun, having previously applied a layer of primer. After 1 day, polish the surface of the body kit.

Sealing with liquid polymer - photo

After cutting, manual cleaning of the crack is required. The inner side of the body kit also needs to be sanded. Cutting the edges of the crack at an angle. Adhesive tape is glued on the front side. Glass canvas is glued on the inside. From the end, you can see how the adhesive tape limits the flow of the composition outward when applied. 2 components are squeezed onto the spatula in the same amount. Mixing the components with a spatula The composition is rubbed into the gap and the mesh with a spatula. After hardening and removing the adhesive tape, the sealed joint is cleaned. This is how a sealed crack in plastic looks like

Video instruction on the use of the composition 3M

Repair with fiberglass

The technology is used to repair damage to body kits made of fiberglass, since the previous technique is not suitable in this case. What is required for work:

• fiberglass for bumper repair;
• polyester (epoxy) resin complete with hardener;
• soft brush;
• stationery knife or scissors;
• rubber gloves.

Advice. If a bulge or depression has formed at the point of impact, immediately after stripping, level it using a building hair dryer for heating.

Since fiberglass patches will have to be applied on both sides of the damaged area, it is better to dismantle the bumper from the car. Having completed all the preparatory work, including stripping paint and degreasing, proceed in the following sequence:

1. Using a grinder with coarse sandpaper (P80-P120), make a recess in the body of the bumper from the front side, covering a radius of 3-5 cm from the crack. This is necessary so that the fiberglass overlay does not protrude beyond the plane of the part.
2. On the back side, make a stripping with a large sandpaper, but without deepening. Degrease the area and let it dry.
3. Cut out the fiberglass patches. On the front part, you need to make a neat patch that repeats the shape of the recess, and from the rear, you can glue a rectangular overlay.
4. Mix the resin with the hardener in the proportions indicated on the packaging. Apply the composition with a brush to the surface, apply a patch (you can in several layers) and impregnate it with resin.
5. Accurately keep the time specified for the curing of the epoxy composition (written on the resin container), then carefully clean the repair area with fine sandpaper. The task is to level the surface by removing the protrusions.

Note. Coarse-grained sandpaper is initially used to create a roughness on the surface of the plastic, which contributes to better adhesion of the polyester adhesive.

On this, the repair work of the plastic itself is over, then cleaning, priming and painting are carried out according to standard technology. The last operation is bumper polishing, it is necessary to give the element a uniform shine.

Photo of fiberglass body kit repair

Video about sealing defects with fiberglass

Soldering large bumper damage

Numerous cracks, breaks and torn off elements of the bumper are repaired by thermal methods, in particular, by soldering. To perform this painstaking work, a small set of tools and materials is required:

• a soldering iron with a power of at least 100 W with a wide tip and a wooden handle;
• thin metal mesh specially designed for thermal bonding of plastic parts;
• knife, wire cutters for processing broken segments;
• screw clamp;
• sandpaper with fine and coarse grain for cleaning seams.

Note. The process of soldering serious defects can take hours. During this time, the plastic handle of the soldering iron will warm up so much that it will become difficult to hold the tool with your hand.

In preparation for soldering, the paint must be removed to the base not only from cracks, but also from torn off pieces of the bumper. Moreover, in this case, the body kit is not removed from the machine until all the gaps are fastened together and fixed by soldering, otherwise the element will lose its exact shape.

Soldering technology is implemented in the following sequence:

1. After stripping, wipe the area with a degreaser and let it evaporate.
2. Align the edges of the cracks and, if necessary, fix them in this position with clamps.
3. With a heated soldering iron, make tacks along the length of all cracks. For high-quality heating, the sting must be immersed in plastic to a depth equal to half the thickness of the material, and then the surface of the molten plastic should be leveled. The distance between the tacks is 1.5-2 cm.
4. When tacks are made on all cracks, it is necessary to put the broken piece in place. Fit it to the hole and, if necessary, cut it so that it fits into the hole flush with the surface.
5. Solder the torn segment on the tacks, then repeat the operation from the inside. After that, the bumper can be carefully removed from the car and continue to work in more comfortable conditions, although this is not necessary, as it is convenient for anyone.
6. Perform solid soldering of all joints on both sides of the body kit. So that adjacent tacks do not diverge from heating, the seam must be soldered with gaps. That is, first the first section between the tacks is welded, then the third, fifth, seventh and so on. When finished, go back and solder any remaining sections.
7. Cut the mesh into pieces 2-4 cm long. They need to be soldered across the seam in the most stressed places - along the edges of the cracks, in the middle, at the junction and near the stiffeners. The technology is simple: a steel mesh is placed on the seam and, heated by a soldering iron, is immersed in the polymer base of the bumper. At the end, the softened plastic above the mesh must be smoothed out.

Important! When soldering the edges of the plastic, you need to hold it still and give it time to solidify. If you release the part ahead of time, the seam will open.

At the end of the soldering procedure, sand the surface of the element, then degrease and paint it in the desired color. During further operation, be more careful, because from a strong blow the bumper can shatter into pieces, tearing in the same places. To fasten it stronger, you should use another method - welding with donor plastic.

Photo instructions for soldering the bumper

All joints are carefully cleaned of paint Fixing the crack with tacks The fracture is now held on by tacks The broken piece is clearly adjusted to the opening The fragment is also fixed with tacks All seams are fixed at several points Completely soldered joints All soldering operations are repeated from the inside of the bumper

How to solder the front body kit - video

hot air welding

This is a more efficient way of connecting polymer parts, used not only for repairing bumpers, but also for restoring a variety of plastic products. It allows you to securely fasten the elements, spending much less time on work than when soldering. To use this technology, you need to prepare the same tools with materials as for soldering, excluding the metal mesh. In addition, it will be needed for repairs.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44

like this - provided that all the pieces are picked up Do not offer a car service for bumpers - it's very expensive and in general I want to try it myself

Ann 14-01-2010 11:49

I myself did not believe that a broken plastic shelf from a refrigerator can be stupidly glued together with a thermal gun, and it works fine further. Just glued the seam, and that's it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and “plaster” it on a layer of glue, so that it would be stronger.
Well, of course, you need to look at what kind of plastic, some are glued just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55

When it arrives, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket

Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13

How many pieces?

Sometimes epoxy rolls onto a fabric base.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17

I don't know yet

TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22

dichloroethane glues well ...

How to turn an ordinary plastic bucket into a great basket

if you first dissolve a part of this plastic in it ... but on the condition that this plastic dissolves in this substance ...

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32

All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering if they've come up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:40

When it arrives, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket

buy a thermal gun and glue with heating through fiberglass or other fittings. Old buckets - polyethylene, everything will stick together to die.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42

Originally posted by Sportist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering if they've come up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?

yes, how like that ... you stupidly take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - you glue it right along the seam, it grabs quickly, having assembled it, you paste the mesh on the inside, fiberglass at the seams.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43

forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then polyethylene is there with a high degree of probability, or polypropylene, and DCE will not take it.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13

Dichloroethane will most likely not work here ... What is a thermal gun? In my understanding, this is Chinese shnyaga for 50 rubles, which spits hot melt adhesive (hot melt adhesive in rods)

alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18

yeah, it’s for them, the casing will be heavily thermally loaded? if yes, then there is dandyl heat resistant compound

Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49

How hot is the casing on a boat motor? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. I'll have to try hot melt adhesive.

makarharp 14-01-2010 15:24

somewhere on motorcycle sites I saw an exhaustive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that I even duplicated it here ... look, you can find it.

alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25

then there is a reserve, take the rods from 160 and that's it.
There is experience in repairing two NON-FUCKING holes on the plastic of the radiator with a dandyl compound, heat-resistant, black. Zallos like a monolith, shaking blows suffered with honor.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 17:26

from 160 what is this? Temperature? Price?

alchemist 14-01-2010 17:43

temperature, at the price of a kilo of rods in Leroy Chot about 110 rubles, ekstrotronk

Sportsman 15-01-2010 09:44

I don’t know what Leroy is, I’ll look at our radio shops which are

op-to-mat 15-01-2010 22:31

And which one did you mean?

demon 15-01-2010 22:40

cyanoacrylate type Loctite 401

Home▲▼

Do-it-yourself plastic bumper repair

Even the most experienced driver cannot be insured against damage to the bumper of your car. If not you, then you. If it is solved through the insurance - good. If the insurance does not roll, then there are two options: trust the professionals (it often happens here too) and lay out not a small amount or Do your own bumper repair.
It all starts with damage assessment. Usually a bumper is not very expensive, especially if you buy a Chinese counterpart. If the bumper has suffered quite seriously, then there can be no question of any restoration of it - it will come out more expensive. It is advisable to carry out repair work to restore a plastic bumper if there is a small crack or cracks, scratches, chips, dents, or if a replacement cannot be found at all.

Before repair, it is desirable to remove the bumper, for convenience. The entire restoration process, up to painting, is conveniently performed on a separate stand.

Procedure

— Remove the damaged bumper;

- Wash it well;

— Remove the paint coating of the damaged area;

- Clean the outer and inner surfaces with a grip of 10-15 mm on the sides of the damage. The layer of paint removed during stripping should be at least 0.2 mm, since the top layer of the surface often changes its properties during operation, which may affect the quality of our repair seam;

- Drill the ends of the cracks (this will prevent their further growth). Here, it is the same as when repairing cracks, chips on the windshield with your own hands;

- To make the actual repair - we will consider the methods below;

- Priming and painting - will be required in most cases.

To repair the bumper with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of tools:

— car hair dryer. This is a special device that does not differ in appearance and principle of operation from a conventional hair dryer. The only difference is that the hot air from such a hair dryer has a higher temperature and can soften or melt the plastic.

— soldering iron. You can use any soldering iron, preferably more powerful. Rosin and tin are not required, not the case.

— Metal mesh. These are sold in specialized stores. The mesh will allow you to fasten pieces of plastic together. You can use an old air filter.

— Priming. An ordinary spray can of automotive primer is quite suitable. If there is a compressor and a spray gun, then it's even better. Take your pick - it doesn't matter.

— Putty. No matter how perfect you solder the cracks, you still need putty. The exception is if this place is not visible.

— Sandpaper. For grouting putty 40 and 80 numbers, and for grouting soil already 800.

— Any rag. It will be needed when washing the bumper, and when working with a hair dryer, because straightening hot plastic with bare hands is not always comfortable. It's good to use gloves as well.

— Piece of an old bumper. It will be needed in exceptional cases when there is not enough plastic.

It may be advisable to buy a repair kit that includes items such as sandpaper, various retouching paints, and fillers. Such kits are not so expensive and can be cheaper than taking everything separately, since the kits do not use large packaging - why do you need a whole can of primer for a small crack? Also putty, etc.

bumper repair

To begin with, a qualitative inspection is carried out in good lighting. Determine how many cracks, scratches, chips and dents your bumper has. We immediately calculate the amount of mesh, putty and other consumables. It is best to do this before buying consumables and the missing tool.

Now let's take a closer look at the inside of the bumper. There you need to find extruded (in some cases melted) information about the material of the product. Depending on the type of marking, the following conclusions can be drawn:
type designations PP (PPTV20 and analogues) - the bumper is made of propylene;
mark PUR - polyurethane bumper;
PAG 6 (GF, ABS) - the designation of hard plastics.

But this is not a complete list of materials from which bumpers for cars are made. You can also find parts made of fiberglass and similar carbons, but they are marked very rarely and the maximum that can be found is the manufacturer's information. But if your bumper is made of hard (thermosetting) plastic or carbon, then repairing plastic bumpers of this type is different from repairing products made from other materials.

Cracks.

If there is a crack on the bumper, then we need a soldering iron and a mesh. Flip the bumper upside down and cut the mesh. It is worth making oblong pieces 2-3 centimeters wide and a crack long in size. Bring the edges of the crack together and solder one end of the mesh. We need to drown it in plastic, but we don’t get carried away much, you can just make a hole. After that, melted plastic should cover the end of the mesh. Further, in this way, we solder the entire crack.

Let's look at the outside of the bumper. If everything is ideal there, then nothing needs to be done. Otherwise, we pass the mesh on the outside. The main thing is to hide the ends of the mesh so that nothing sticks out. When you sharpen the putty with sandpaper, you will regret the protruding mesh hairs.

Small cracks, instead of mesh, can be reinforced with staples from a furniture stapler. The size of the staples should be chosen so that their legs do not pierce through the body. If there are no suitable staples, then you can take others and shorten them to the desired length. Use tweezers when soldering fittings, so you will protect yourself from burns.

We place the staples perpendicular to the seam at a distance of 1-2 cm along the entire length of the fault. Barely emerging cracks and branches are also fused. Otherwise, in the future, from vibration, they will develop into splits. In order to protect the staples from corrosion, completely cover them with heated plastic, pulling it from adjacent areas. After you fuse the bumper on the inside, the front surface should return to its original shape.

If the cracks on the bumper are large or there are fasteners nearby (the places where the bumper is attached to the body), since the nearby surface of the bumper often breaks, it is advisable to tighten the crack with screws before soldering. A fairly simple but very effective method is proposed.

We take a suspension - it’s definitely called a “metal suspension for attaching guides”, there are such in any hardware store. We need it to tighten the crack with screws.

We cut it with a hacksaw or "grinder" as shown in the photo, depending on the type of bumper crack. Usually use parts 1 or 2 - the holes used are shaded in blue. Although it happens that when two cracks converge together, piece of iron No. 3 is used. Below is an example of the location of the plates on a bumper crack.

In the figure - blue shows the working holes for the bolts. We drill holes in the bumper for the screws, put a plate on the back side, insert the screw into the holes and fix the entire structure with nuts.

If you are repairing a bumper for the first time, then be sure to carry out this procedure from the inside (and not the first time, too).

Place a plate over the crack. Through the holes in the plate, drill holes in the bumper with a drill with a diameter of 3.6 to 3.8 mm. Drill so that the drill is closer to the outer edge of the plate hole.
the drilled hole in the bumper must be countersinked so that the screw head "drowns" into the bumper. If there is no countersink, a drill bit with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the screw head can be used instead. When countersinking, do not overdo it, do not drill through! But too small a hole is also not necessary. And one more thing - you can drill manually, just by hand, with a large drill in the hole drilled for the screw, make a couple of turns - and the desired angle for the hat is ready.

We check the quality of soldering. Shake in the place of the crack after drying.

How to fix a barrel, flask, bucket, watering can, canister

If everything is flimsy, then you have to solder it. However, this cannot be allowed, everything should be done for sure. After splicing the crack, the bumper surface should also be degreased and covered with fiberglass, and then with putty.

dents

If the dent turned out without a scratch, that is, the paintwork remained intact, you are very lucky. You can fix it in minutes. This completes the restoration of the bumper. All you need to do is wet a regular rag, turn on the hair dryer and heat the dent from the back. Warm up usually no more than thirty seconds. Then we wind a damp rag on a fist and begin to bend the plastic back. We do everything carefully and without the use of great force. The main thing is not to transfer everything out. You can do several approaches in a break of ten minutes, allowing the plastic to cool.

In the case when, in addition to the dent, there is also a crack, we perform the same actions, but with the expectation of further puttying and painting the surface.

Chips and scratches

You can fight them with sandpaper. We take the largest one (number 40) and start rubbing. It is necessary to sharpen the pits, turning everything into a more or less even surface. The pit, in fact, increases in diameter, but loses in depth. Then we will fill this depth with putty. It is advisable to use body bars, if available, but you can also rub with your palm.

Detailed instructions for removing chips and scratches on a car - for those who need it.

A good result is obtained by using liquid plastic that matches your type of plastic on the bumper. Be sure to consult with the seller, after writing down the type of material of your bumper.
Stick masking tape (it is better to use self-adhesive fiberglass tape) on the front surface of the bumper. On cardboard, mix the adhesive mass and thickener. Apply the resulting mass to the masking tape. This is done to level the surface of the bumper. Next, the masking tape is removed, and the surface is again cleaned and sanded. Liquid plastic is applied to this place. After the plastic has hardened, you need to sand the surface.

Putty

Let's prepare the putty by adding a hardener to it. After that, we will immediately apply dents (if the paintwork is damaged), cracks, scratches or chips to the place. This is done naturally after the above mentioned measures to eliminate breakdowns.

Wait ten minutes before starting work. We take sandpaper number 80. With the help of movements directed to the left and right edges of the bumper, it begins to overwrite the putty. Sooner or later you will come to the desired result. Of course, the geometry of the body should be observed if the breakdown appeared in some not very convenient place. You can make several additional layers of putty to give a more even surface.

We prime

Take a rubber rag, wash the bumper and let it dry. Let's check the result for the last time. If everything suits you, then you can proceed to the primer. We take cans or turn on the compressor. Apply the primer with movements directed, again, to the left and right edges of the bumper. Essentially, you need to draw a horizontal line while spraying.

Let the soil dry completely. After that, you will need to take eight-hundredth sandpaper and wash it thoroughly. This is done with a bottle of water. No matter how local the breakdown was, the entire bumper is completely washed out. It should become matte after drying. And the first layer of soil is completely washed off, leaving only gray dots in the risks and pores on the putty.
We will apply another layer of soil, which we will also wash. Check the flatness of the surface under the lamp. There should be no small pores or scratches. The surface at this stage should be perfectly flat.

Now the bumper is completely ready for painting. We advise you to paint everything as soon as possible.

Repair of plastic bumpers made of thermosetting plastics and fiberglass

On the one hand, this method will not require great skills and abilities from you, but on the other hand, it is necessary to follow all the instructions exactly. Only in this case, you can achieve a good result.

The procedure for carrying out repairs:

we combine the cracked parts, fix them with any quick-drying glue;

preparing epoxy resin for further use;

take a brush and coat the area of ​​the crack ranging from 5 cm wide from the inside of the bumper;

we impregnate the fiberglass mat with epoxy resin and lay it on the prepared area. In the absence of such material, a mesh used to seal drywall joints may be suitable. In the latter case, you will have to apply another layer of epoxy.

Note that in this procedure the fiberglass must be repeatedly applied layer by layer so that the approximate thickness of the bonded patch matches the thickness of the bumper in that area. The front side of the product remains unglued. The putty used to hide solder marks and other irregularities should be designed specifically for plastic in any case. Next, paint the finished bumper and screw it into place. If you believe the statistics and try out the technique in practice, then in subsequent operation, if cracks appear on it, then in some other place, but definitely not in the place of the seam we sealed.

In any case, you should not forget that the bumper is, first of all, the face of the car and requires proper care and timely repair. And it will be an independent repair or bumper repair in a car service - it's up to you.

I myself have not tried to seal plastic buckets, but I have seen how it is done. 5. The neck is glued to the bath with hot glue. The edges of the holes are slightly trimmed with a larger diameter drill, there should be no burrs! 4. In the intended circle, we drill 5-7 drain holes with a diameter of 4-5 millimeters.

ATTENTION! Washcloths and sponges need to be changed quite often, especially if they have lost their integrity and started to crumble. Please note: You can bathe a child in a large common bath only after pre-treating its surface with soda, baby soap or special detergents. Suction cup accessories must be attached before filling the tub with water.

How to seal a plastic container?(+)Yesterday

The ingress of water and detergents under them reduces the reliability of fixation.

This is a steel structure, adjustable in height, on which the bath is installed.

In the design of the bath, the factor of its stability is important.

With this posture, the passage of gases is facilitated and colic pains are more easily tolerated. The product meets all safety and hygiene requirements.

Microban is not released into the water and does not lose its properties over time.

The material of the product contains the additive Microban, which disinfects the water when bathing.

If the bath is stationary, then there should be anti-slip pads on the legs. The accessory provides the baby with soft support and prevents it from slipping. The sponge shape for bathing has a profile corresponding to the anatomical contours of the child. In its form, stops are provided between the legs and under the armpits. The anatomic slide is attached to the tub with suction cups. A hanging hammock made of fine mesh is hung over the bottom of the bath with hooks.

It is a removable stand that fixes the position of the child and allows you to make bathing safe and convenient.

What to consider when choosing a bath for a newborn

The anatomic bath has a built-in slide-support inside, following the contours of the child's body, so when bathing, he feels more confident. Armed with knowledge about the varieties and properties of baby baths and accessories for them, you will make the right choice when buying. For faster falling asleep, it is recommended to do a general massage for the baby, a video tutorial can be viewed in this publication.

This allows you to fix the baby in a comfortable position.

Very comfortable for newborns.

Increases convenience built-in drain. It allows you to quickly and easily change the water during bathing without disturbing the child.

The bath should not be too small so that the baby can use it for at least six months.

It is strange that almost all the accessories are mentioned here, but they forgot about swimming circles - this is about bathing in the bathroom. And when the baby grows up, you can bathe him in a spacious common bath, and leave the nursery for future offspring. Swimming hill.

Therefore, everything is available.

In some models, the stops are adjustable to match the height of the child. After use, it folds up compactly. Buying these items separately will cost less. But you can become the owner of things that you personally do not need.

Buckets, basins, barrels and other household equipment are made of plastic. This material is practical, easy to use, but short-lived.

Any drop or mechanical impact can lead to cracks. A container that passes water becomes useless. But seal plastic water container it is quite possible that she will serve well for some time.

It is quite possible to seal a plastic barrel at home. Consider two options for how to fix holes in plastic barrels and other containers.

Option 1

To work, you will need the following materials and tools:

• stainless mesh (you can take aluminum, copper),
• scissors,
• soldering iron 100 watts.

Operating procedure:

1. Cut off a piece of mesh with scissors.
2. We fix the mesh at the site of damage to the depth of the mesh thickness.
3. We align it along the seam, moving along the entire plane. At the same time, we solder the mesh with a soldering iron in parallel, hold the free edge with a knife, immediately after soldering we cool it with a heat exchanger (knife) - this is an important rule so that the mesh does not bulge.
4. We introduce the entire mesh into the seam using this method.
5. At the end of the work, the seam is completely sealed and reinforced, which gives it a fortress.
6. Repeat the process on the back side of the container.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Option 2

If you have to repair a container with water under pressure, you can resort to another method.

For work you will need:

• flexible plastic patch
• building hair dryer,
• protective gloves.

Operating procedure:

1. We wipe the area with damage, remove dirt.
2. We begin to heat with a hairdryer at low power so as not to burn a hole, a place with a defect.
3. We heat the patch with a hair dryer from the side that will be adjacent to the crack. We heat already at a higher power.
4. We apply a patch to the place of damage and continue to warm up with a hair dryer, adding more power. Wear protective gloves on your hands to avoid burns. It is important not to overheat the surface.
5. We smooth the patch with our fingers and wait for it to cool. We pour water and check the quality of work.

Final sealing and smoothing of irregularities on a repaired plastic tank
The first method proved to be the most effective in practice. The second is more suitable as a temporary measure.

How to seal a plastic tank or a barrel for water - the choice of an epoch

If the defect in the plastic container is small, you can use epoxy glue. A two-component epoxy adhesive will effectively solve the problem of a leaky plastic tank.

Differs in the increased resistance to moisture and chemicals, polymerizes in just 1 hour, not flammable.

It is necessary to cut off the required amount of glue, knead with clean hands until a homogeneous mass is obtained, fashion a cone out of it and insert it into the tank opening. Hold securely for a few minutes.

Then you need to wait 2 hours, after which the container can be operated.

Features of epoxy adhesive "Contact":

• restores the shape of products, and also hermetically fills voids,
• is not afraid of not only water, but also oils, solvents,
• the repaired tank can be used at temperatures from -40C to +150C,
• within 3-5 minutes, the adhesive can be corrected, and after an hour it can be cleaned, turned and subjected to other mechanical influences,
• The adhesive is sold ready to use.

The cost of this composition is from 150 rubles per pack of 50 g.

Also have similar properties adhesives "General Purpos Permapoxy PERMATEX"(from 314 rubles for 25 ml) and "Plastic Weld Permapoxy PERMATEX" (from 320 rubles for 25 ml).

Epoxy adhesives can be purchased at most hardware stores, as well as online.

Heat-resistant glass is more stable, and with significant heating, the crack, as a rule, does not expand. Soldering cracks in products made of Pyrex and partly of molybdenum glass is relatively simple. The crack is heated on a narrow and sharp flame from one end to the other. Usually softened glass expands and seals the crack. However, it may happen that during heating, the sides of the crack open and a gap forms between them. This often occurs in thick-walled products or when the crack is on a spherical surface. In this case, the edges of the widened crack can be pulled together with a glass rod, and then soldered on a sharp burner flame.

You can do otherwise. The place where the crack is located, gradually warm up on the flame of the burner. At the same time, heat the end of a glass rod made of glass of the same brand until completely softened. A heated glass rod is taken in the right hand and the softened end is carefully soldered to one end of the crack. They pull off a relatively thin antennae. Then, when heated, a softened tendril is applied to the gap in the crack, moving the stick from one end of the crack to the other (Fig. 92). A kind of welded seam is formed, resembling a seam of oxy-fuel welding. The seam is then melted, finished and annealed.

It is much more difficult to seal cracks on products made from ordinary laboratory glasses. Cracks on products made from these glasses quickly lengthen when heated and can render the product completely unusable. A non-hot flame of a gas burner is directed to the product where there is a crack, which is first kept at a considerable distance from the crack. Then slowly move towards the product, thus ensuring a slow and uniform heating of the glass. A crack with gentle and slow heating will not grow. You can do otherwise: the product and the place where there is a crack are carefully heated on a smoky flame of a burner (a layer of soot prevents sudden heating). Gradually increase the temperature of the flame by adding air (or oxygen) and gas to it. When the crack stabilizes (the glass will not crack), a narrow flame of the burner is directed to the product along the crack and the glass is heated until it softens. At the same time, the soot burns out, after which the product is turned with a crack down and heated on a wider flame. Glass, expanding, soldered. If a gap forms when the crack is heated, it can be repaired with a glass rod, as indicated above. The operation to seal the cracks should be done fairly quickly. With slow sealing, the glass may collapse and the surface of the junction will become dull.

The sealing of cracks at the bottom of the flask, glass or vessel with a flat bottom is carried out as follows (Fig. 93). The bottom is slowly and gradually warmed up. Then the flame of the burner is made sharp and narrow and heated until the crack is softened by the so-called oncoming fire from one end to the other (from bottom to top). The flask is set to the flame at an angle of 130-140°. To blow air into the neck of the flask or glass, a cork with a glass tube or a power with an open end is inserted, on the wide part of which string or sheet asbestos is wound. If the edges of the crack diverge, then the gap is closed with a glass rod and melted well. A convex seam is formed at the bottom of the flask or glass. To restore a flat bottom, it is heated on a wide flame of a burner, placed on a burnt wooden board, and lightly pressed against it, while blowing and rotating the flask or glass. This operation is repeated on a graphite plate until the final alignment of the bottom. Then the product is annealed first on a burner flame, and then in a muffle furnace.

A more painstaking operation is the sealing of a star-shaped crack caused by an impact on the spherical part of the product. Each crack, radially diverging from the place of impact, is continued with the help of a heated glass rod in such a way that it closes on itself during its continuation (the cracks are made circular). After that, a not very hot burner flame is slowly brought to the center of the star-shaped crack and this part of the spherical surface is heated until it slightly bends. All cracks are filled with softened glass, heated again evenly and, slightly blowing, level the spherical surface. Heating the impact site without closing the cracks leads to further cracking.

Modern household communications are increasingly equipped with plastic pipes: this is especially true of sewer and plumbing systems, most of them consisting of polypropylene or PVC products. Like any other plumbing, these systems need periodic repairs.

First steps to take if a leak is detected

If there is a leak on the heating or high pressure pipe, you must immediately shut off the system with shutoff valves. To solve the problem of how to close a hole in a plastic pipe, you can use a clamp. Such designs are characterized by a very simple use, which consists in putting on a damaged area and tightening the bolts.

An older method is to use rubber: heating and water pipes are often repaired this way. This involves wrapping a piece of rubber around the damaged area, for which you can use an old car tire.

For clamping, use a clamp, thin wire or a strong cord. Ordinary oil paint is also used, which is smeared on a fabric pre-wound over the leak (read also: ""). All these methods have only a temporary effect, since the leak will definitely make itself felt later. The best option for repairing a crack in a plastic pipe is to completely replace the problem area, especially since in the case of plastic pipes this is not difficult to do.

Use of sealant and epoxy glue for plastic pipe

A number of factors can contribute to the appearance of cracks or leaks in a plastic pipeline. These are mistakes made at the stage of system installation, and violation of operation. And the plastic parts themselves may be defective.

If the size of the resulting crack is small, then it is not necessary to change the entire pipe. You can try sealing it with silicone sealant first, especially when it comes to non-penetrating damage. Most often, sewer systems are repaired in this way.

In this case, you need to act like this:

1. Clean up and expand the damage. This is done for deeper penetration of the sealant.
2. Carry out degreasing and drying of the repaired area.
3. Apply the desired layer of sealant and allow it to dry well.

However, it happens that the pipe receives through damage. How to seal the sewer plastic pipe in this case?

This is done using a two-component epoxy composition, in compliance with the following sequence of work:

1. The place where the damage appeared must be cleaned, degreased and dried.
2. To prepare the bandage, you will need fiberglass or another dense and flexible material.
3. The crack itself and the place around it are wrapped with a prepared bandage, with a good margin. Wrap the material around the pipe at least 5 times.
4. At the final stage, epoxy glue is applied.

In addition to sewer systems, water pipes and heated towel rails can be repaired in this way.

How to seal a hole with duct tape

With the help of this modern material, it is possible to qualitatively eliminate small leaks on pipes located in bathrooms. Outwardly, it is an adhesive fabric impregnated with special substances. Most often, joints and connecting elements are sealed with sealing tape. As for straight sections, they can also be repaired in this way.

When using sealing tape, it is important to follow the following sequence of work:

• The damaged area must be thoroughly cleaned and dried.
• After stretching a small piece of tape, it is wrapped around the pipe. It is important that this procedure is accompanied by constant tension in the tape, otherwise wrinkles will occur.
• When winding, each new turn should be laid on half of the previous one. It is best to pack the pipe with two layers of sealing tape.

The main disadvantage of this method is the insufficient resistance of the repair material to sunlight. To achieve a good service life, the wound tape is coated with additional protection.

Crack repair by cold welding

Currently, specialized stores offer special cold welding for sewer pipes. It is made specifically for the repair of plastic products used in the organization of water pipes, cooling systems, heating communications.

With the help of cold welding, damage of almost any degree of complexity can be repaired. In this case, thermal exposure is not required, since a chemical reaction is used to bring the constituent components into working condition.

The work itself to repair a damaged plastic pipe has the following sequence:

1. It all starts with surface preparation, for which the entire problem area is treated with an emery cloth. This is followed by degreasing the base with alcohol-containing liquids. If this procedure is neglected, the applied patch will serve many times less.
2. It is necessary to calculate exactly how much material is required for high-quality embedding. For this, a simple visual inspection is usually enough: the main thing here is that the repair mass can cover the entire problem area.
3. The substance must be taken in hands, on which protective rubber gloves are first put on, and begin to knead. This procedure is continued until the material is stained in a specific brown shade. Another sign of the readiness of the material is the mass reaching the state of plasticine.
4. The finished plastic material must be well repaired damage by pressing it with a tourniquet. Then a pause is made in the work, for about an hour: during this time, the repair mass solidifies. It must be made so strong and dense that any drilling, cutting and other influences on its surface are completely safe.

It is important to take into account the presence of components harmful to the human body in the composition of cold welding. For safety reasons, it is recommended to get protective gloves and goggles in advance. To speed up the process of solidification of the plastic mass, some experts recommend exposing it to warm air using a building or ordinary hair dryer.

Cold welding for sewer pipes is suitable for repairing damaged plumbing. For example, if a piece of material has broken off from a sink or toilet bowl, cold welding will help glue it back with high quality. When buying this universal remedy, you should check its expiration date, composition features and the availability of a quality certificate.