Do I need to remove the mulch from the garlic in the spring. Important points when growing garlic. The better to mulch winter garlic

Types of garlic: spring - planted in the spring, winter - in the fall. Spring garlic does not shoot, it has a soft neck, there are many flat cloves in the head. It is less productive than winter, but more stale. Winter garlic has large cloves arranged radially, like tangerine slices. It shoots and the arrows must be broken out to get larger heads.

Basic rules for growing large garlic

First rule: Plant only varietal garlic. Do not buy small ones on the market, because garlic has an unpleasant tendency to reduce the size of the cloves (degenerates).

Second rule: If you want to have large heads, plant large teeth and single teeth.

Third rule: Observe boarding times. When to plant winter? It all depends on the weather - on average, in the middle or end of September, so that powerful roots can form. And if a tooth meets the winter “beardless”, without roots, then no shelter will save it. Spring garlic should be planted in late April - early May, depending on the weather. Of course, if there is snow, then you should not plant it in very cold ground.

Fourth rule: Water the beds with biological preparations "Shine". spring winter garlic sprouts and may turn yellow, it lacks moisture when it is cold nutrients are not digested, you can pour it with "Shine 1", it will accelerate the decomposition of nutrients and be sure to mulch. When watering with “Shine 1”, rooting is better, the heads of garlic are larger, the number of cloves is greater.

Rule 5: Clean up in time, otherwise the heads of garlic fall apart and are poorly stored, break out the arrows from the winter crop and leave only 3-4 pieces in the garden to determine readiness.

Preparing for planting spring garlic

In March or early April, disassemble the heads of garlic, sprinkle with water, wrap in a damp cloth, then wrap in cellophane and put in the refrigerator door so as not to freeze. Make sure that the cloth does not dry out, but is damp. There is no need for water to flow from it. By planting in May, he has a whole beard of roots. Do not cut the roots, plant carefully, without damaging, without bending. Water well when planting. How deep should spring garlic be planted? Depth not less than 10 cm, depending on what kind of earth, if very hard, then less, softer deeper. Garlic needs fertile, cool and moist soil. When you plant it shallow, it gets hot, lacks moisture, and the garlic grows small.
Winter garlic can be planted to a depth of more than 10 cm and mulched in autumn with a layer of grass, weeds more than 10 cm. In the spring, remove the mulch for quick germination of garlic.

Soil preparation

The soil is prepared loose, with humus, deep furrows are made and sprinkled with wood ash, which gives potassium and other elements, it is good to sprinkle with Shine 2, the bacteria in its composition will process the nutrients into a form convenient for plants.
Planting garlic Row spacing 20-25 cm, best between cloves 10-15 cm.
Then, teeth are pressed into the grooves in a zigzag, at a distance of at least 8 cm from each other. The grooves are sprinkled with compost or soil, if it is light.

Mulching

Winter garlic is immediately mulched from frost, and spring garlic can be allowed to sprout, then loosen carefully not deep once and mulch.
As a mulch for winter garlic, you can use not only common materials(hay, straw, tree leaves, etc.), but also sunflower stalks, corn, even tree branches. Coarse mulch will help snow retention and will play a dual role - it will retain more moisture and better cover the bed in winter. In the spring, coarse mulch must be removed from the garden before the garlic sprouts, so as not to damage the young brittle peaks. For any garlic, do not remove the fine mulch, but observe the seedlings. And only if it seems that the arrows are difficult to break through the mulch - remove it, and return it after germination. In any case, the garlic should be covered with mulch and the bed, then you do not need to disturb until the harvest itself. The roots of garlic can lie near the surface of the soil, so it is easy to damage them with a hoe.

summer care

Do not add garlic. Watering once every 7-10 days with preparations "Shine".
You can pour Biococktail: on a bucket of 20 Ecoberin granules, 20 Healthy Garden granules, 1-2 tablespoons of the Radiance 1 solution. Be sure to add mulch to keep the soil from drying out.
Infusions of herbs from barrels according to the recipe "Shine 3" (for 30 liters of infusion, fill the container 2/3 without compacting with chopped weeds, add 1.5 cups of old jam or sugar, 1 liter of bird droppings or mullein, 1/3 cup of chalk, 1 .5 cups wood ash and packaging "Shine 3". Fill up to 30 liters warm water and mix thoroughly. Cover with cling film and stir occasionally for 7-10 days. The resulting infusion should be used within 3-4 weeks. Use the rest of the infusion in the barrel as a starter for compost.

harvesting garlic

Do not be late with harvesting garlic. If you miss optimal time, then the heads can “fall apart”, their outer shells will burst and the keeping quality of garlic will sharply worsen.
Garlic Ripeness Test - Cut a head of garlic horizontally. If the cloves begin to separate from each other, and the distance between them has reached about 1.5 mm, the garlic is ready. For winter, leave a few plants with not broken arrows to collect bulbs. The arrows will first curl into a ring, then straighten out, balls with bulbs will pour on their tips, and as soon as the wrappers of these balls begin to burst, it's time for cleaning. In any case, it is better to remove the garlic a day earlier than two later.
The arrows of winter garlic must be broken out. In this case, a denser shell is formed in the garlic and the keeping quality improves, it grows larger.

Storage

After digging up the garlic, dry it (but not in the sun) and, without cutting the stem (including those with bulbs), hang it in the shade for several weeks so that the heads dry well and the nutrients from the stems partially flow into the bulbs . Then the stems can be cut, the bulbs removed and the garlic stored in a dry and cool place. The worst storage place is the refrigerator. Even with room temperature Garlic keeps better in a stocking than in a refrigerator.

Pay attention to this:

	All about garden plants

During the growing season, garlic care is to create the most optimal conditions plant for a quality crop.

One of these conditions is the preservation of moisture and loose soil structure by mulching garlic and loosening the earth.

Mulching garlic

Why Mulch Garlic?

Mulching is the covering of a planted area with various organic materials from 4 to 10 cm thick (depending on the type of material used for mulching).

Mulching of winter garlic is carried out in the fall, but it is needed not so much from freezing as to preserve soil moisture and so that the soil does not crack, that is, it was not necessary to weed and loosen it.

Mulch allows the plant to live more easily from watering to watering, but does not replace it in any way.

Shelter of garlic better retains snow in areas, warms the soil to some extent, improves its water-air regime, prevents swimming and the formation of ice crust. In early spring, it prevents the formation of a dry crust and cracks on the soil surface, water loss, erosion and leaching of nutrients.

In addition, garlic mulching to a certain extent delays the early emergence of weeds, and those that are late after the decomposition of the mulch in May are easier to destroy. mechanically or using herbicides.

What is the best way to mulch garlic?

For mulching garlic can be used, dry humus, dry chopped peat, semi-decomposed straw manure, chopped partially decomposed straw, partially composted leaves (except oak leaves containing tannins that inhibit plant development), sawdust (best mixed with pine or spruce needles to repel rodents). A very good mulching material is mowed and dried grass from the aisles of the garden, herbalists, without weed seeds.

Mulch has almost no effect on the germination of garlic - sharp garlic shoots pierce it well.

Categorically it is forbidden to use for mulching, fallen leaves, stems with leaves, feces, fresh straw, which, firstly, is blown away by the wind, and secondly, during decomposition, bacteria use available nitrogen from the soil. Fallen leaves can be a problem in that the tree may have been attacked by fungal diseases and the leaves will then carry their spores throughout the area.

The thickness of the layer of mulching material ranges from 3-4 to 5-6 cm. In the case of mulching with semi-decomposed straw manure, chopped, partially decomposed straw, dried grass, it is increased to 6-10 cm.

In small areas, spring mulching is also recommended using the same materials, as well as black film. At the same time, both for winter and spring garlic, not only the water and nutritional regimes improve, a crust does not form, but weed infestation is significantly reduced, and the yield increases by 20-30%.

On the basis of experiments carried out in various soil and climatic zones, it was found that in mulched areas, the height of plants, the number and area of ​​leaves were greater compared to plants in areas where mulching was not used. Moreover, the yield of garlic and net income per 1 ha of crops increased. Mulching increased the yield of elite material on seed plots by 17-35%.

Examples from the experience of mulching garlic

From the experience of garlic growers, which they share on the Internet:

• there was not enough mulch for part of the garden, so the same variety of garlic grew with and without mulch. In the unmulched area, the size of the heads of garlic was noticeably smaller;
• when we first mulched with needles after 2 weeks, we read that this makes the soil more acidic, so we removed the needles from a third of the planted garlic. The harvest was many times worse on a non-mulched plot

AT industrial cultivation garlic, subject to such agrotechnical procedures as regular loosening of the soil, the use of a drip irrigation system, timely weed control, the importance of such a procedure as garlic mulching is somewhat reduced.

Loosening the soil between the rows of garlic

Garlic sprouts very early, as soon as the snow melts. Around the middle of March. However, there are not isolated cases when shoots appear already at the end of February or more - when planting garlic in September, and warm autumn, shoots may appear in the month of December. There are also delays when the garlic comes off in late March - early April.

The first tillage to be carried out as soon as soil conditions permit is harrowing across rows in one, less often two tracks with light harrows. On the small areas loosen the earth with a rake. Then they pass along the rows and cover the plants extracted with a harrow or rake with soil, trying not to damage the root system.

Loosening the soil between rows should be given special attention. Such an event contributes to the conservation of moisture and the improvement of the air regime and the destruction, with high-quality conduct, up to 90-95% of weeds.

It is known that root system garlic is very sensitive to damage, it is poorly regenerated, and even its slight injury negatively affects the growth and development of plants.

The bulk of the root system of garlic is located in the arable layer, and a significant part of the roots - at a depth of 5-7 cm from the soil surface. So deepening is unacceptable working bodies of the cultivator on 10-12 and even 8-9 cm.

Mulching winter garlic gives the gardener more freedom in choosing timing, materials, options than mulching winter and spring onions, or carrots.

I would like to add fresh photos to Alexey's observations. Without delving into the theory of plant nutrition, into the cares and concerns about the microflora and fauna of our beds, for the most sensible and critical, in relation to the mulch, gardeners.

Just one reason - TRY IT! It might be convenient!

Garlic. Cultivation and care.

Garlic was planted before winter and it turned out so well that not mulched and mulched garlic beds were next to each other this year. Everything will be very clear. Photo from May 5th.

The soil in the non-mulched bed was already weeded and loosened a couple of weeks ago.

And this is what it looks like -

You will have to do an unloved and boring business - repeated weed removal and repeated loosening.

And very near

On such a bed there will no longer be any other work until the harvest. Technology - "Plant and forget", or "sow-harvest".

Mulching friendly shoots of garlic, onions, carrots can permanently turn the gardener away from this useful operation. Unless the crop is sown in one, maximum two rows, frequent, dense, young shoots turn mulching into hard labor.

On these crops, from USEFUL and easy, "lazy" technology - "plant and forget" to USEFUL and difficult operation, there can be only one step.

Garlic mulching options

Mulching winter garlic, due to its biological features- interesting for its versatility, in contrast to the mulching of winter and spring onions, carrots.

Both accidental observations of many gardeners, and special experiments, checks, indicate that in many regions, winter garlic can be planted from August to November, or even grow with even greater "frills" - not choosing the heads that have matured this year from the ground, but harvesting the crop in another year.

For our own benefit and convenience, for the benefit of the earth and the garlic pet, we can control not only the timing of planting crops, but also the timing of mulching, the composition, and the thickness of the mulching layer.

Just two examples.

Garlic can be mulched by covering the bed with a relatively small amount of hay.

Part of the garlic bed between two paths, modestly sprinkled with hay.

Second example:

And you can create a more serious layer of mulch on the same bed, from a variety of organic matter. First, thickly pour leaf litter, then roll it good layer hay.

Without sparing the foliage, we create the first layer of mulch.

The second layer of mulch is an even more solid layer of hay.

And there is no need to be afraid for garlic - will it have enough strength to break through from under such a mulch to freedom.

Garlic is a strong, life-loving plant. Where you can't find yourself easy way, pushes and overcomes all obstacles.

But, of course, to the selection planting material must be taken seriously.

I showed this couple of mulching options because they can be used in different time. If you sprinkle the garden bed only with hay - grass - this can be done even with enough early landing garlic. But oak leaf litter can be collected only after a couple of good autumn frosts.

And in other variants of mulching there will be their own nuances in terms of timing, composition, and density of shelter beds.

Belgorod.

©Viktor Getman (2016)

The address of Victor's page in My World: https://my.mail.ru/mail/mnbv6956/ mail - [email protected] en

Photo to the commentary of Alexander Sosnovsky:

We cover the garlic with a thick layer of mulch (straw, mostly, and a layer of manure under the straw). Under this mulch, moles dig their passages. The leg falls through, as in a beaver's move.

Photo by Alexander Sosnovsky. Discussion in the comments.

I'm not going to bend my back!

Therefore, I will describe in detail my method growing and planting winter garlic, which can be called so - for the lazy. And all because I don’t loosen the plantings, I don’t weed, and I don’t even water them, and I always get excellent crops. And I don’t dig up the ground before planting garlic - in the sense I don’t touch it at all.

As a last resort, if weeds have broken through on the bed chosen for planting, I loosen it a little with a flat cutter. And then I simply divide the heads into cloves, take each by the top and vertically press it into the ground to a depth corresponding to the length of the index finger. If the earth is too compacted, then at first everything is the same index finger I make indentations in it (naturally, it is better not to perform such a trick without a good rubberized glove).

I carry out the planting itself according to the 12 × 12 cm scheme, and first I plant teeth from the most selective heads, and on the plants that then rise from them, I then leave a few arrows to mark - proven and high-quality seed material grows here. Many will immediately tell me that I plant too often. I agree, but you forgot that I did not accidentally name my method of growing for the lazy.

And the whole secret is this: after planting, I cover the entire bed with a thick (10-12 cm) layer of fallen leaves.

I have two already quite large birch trees growing on my site. It is they who give me truly precious material, which is a guarantee good harvest and my peace of mind. To everyone who follows my example, I would like to separately advise you to be patient in the spring and not to remove the coat of leaves from the garlic. Yes, it will not be easy to break the old notions. Yes, garlic will rise a little later than usual. But you will be rewarded with a vengeance!

When I used this method for the first time, every morning, barely waking up, I immediately ran to the garden to check my plantings. I was terribly worried: the neighbors already had shoots of 15 cm, but mine was empty! But the garlic nevertheless made its way and then went into growth so much that it was impossible to keep track of it. Further - even better. The same neighbors loosen the earth without breathing, run around with watering cans, fight with weeds, fertilize, loosen again, water the beds again, and I just throw mowed grass on leaf litter from above ...

Another tip: if the weather is dry, the boundary should also be covered with mulch. As for the weeds, they are not able to break through the leaf litter. And the land under it is wet, loose, the worms are crazy, garlic, too, well, I'm for the company. I go to the garden only three or four times during the summer.

Harvesting is also a pleasure. Garlic is pulled out of the ground easily, without the help of a shovel or other devices (while before, when my grandmother grew it traditional way, cleaning turned into a real hard labor, especially in a dry summer). But I dry and store garlic in the same way as everyone else. In three years of growing garlic under a thick layer of mulch, not a single head rotted, although two summers were quite rainy.

Two crops + green manure

I hope my experience will be useful to those who have little time or health does not allow them to spend a lot of time in the “G” position and carry heavy watering cans with water. The only thing I urge those who decide to try this method of growing garlic is not to try it on the whole garden at once. Take one away running meter for an experiment - suddenly your variety of garlic is more capricious, or the soil will let you down, or the weather will throw out some trick.

After all, what works great in one area may turn out to be a complete failure in another. Recently, by the way, I read that it is impossible to press the teeth into the ground. It’s strange, because my grandmother always planted it like that, and I do it too, and nothing bad happens to garlic. Maybe readers will clarify this issue?

And I also want to tell you about one curious experiment. I conducted it for only one season, but quite successfully. So, all in the same bed with garlic, about three weeks before harvesting, I sowed Minowashi daikon.

I made holes with a depth of 2 cm, with an interval of 40 cm, with my finger right between the heads and threw a couple of seeds into each. I didn’t fall asleep or water with anything (the weather was damp).

When shoots appeared, I removed the extra shoots and forgot about the daikon until September. After harvesting the garlic (and since I removed it without a shovel, the daikon, which by that time was still small, did not disturb or injure), I scattered some white mustard seeds on the mulch and stirred the mulch with a stick so that they would hide under it from voracious birds.

As a result, the daikon, sown before mustard, also did not suffer from its neighborhood and grew large and clean to the delight (in a dry summer, I probably would have suffered from a cruciferous flea, but I was lucky).

This is how I harvested garlic and daikon from one garden bed during the season, while spending a minimum of effort. Yes, and siderat managed to grow! And by next spring, the mulch and mustard (I didn’t remove it in the fall) will rot and improve the soil.

Mulching is the covering of a planted area with various organic materials from 4 to 10 cm thick (depending on the type of material used for mulching).

The better to mulch winter garlic

For mulching garlic beds, you can use:

• dry humus;
• dry crushed peat;
• semi-decomposed straw manure;
• crushed partially decomposed straw;
• partially composted leaves (except for oak leaves, containing tannins that hinder the development of plants);
• sawdust (best mixed with pine or spruce needles to repel rodents).

A very good mulching material is mowed and dried grass from the aisles of the garden, herbalists, without weed seeds.

Mulch has almost no effect on the germination of garlic - sharp garlic shoots pierce it well.

Why not

• fresh manure;
• fresh peat and straw;
• fresh leftovers after harvesting vegetable products.

It is strictly forbidden use fallen leaves, stems with leaves, feces, fresh straw for mulching, which, firstly, is blown away by the wind, and secondly, during decomposition, bacteria use available nitrogen from the soil. Fallen leaves can be a problem in that the tree may have been attacked by fungal diseases and the leaves will then carry their spores throughout the area.

1. Mulching the beds is recommended in the fall after planting garlic before the onset of the first frost.
2. The thickness of the layer of mulching material ranges from 3-4 to 5-6 cm. In the case of mulching with semi-decomposed straw manure, chopped, partially decomposed straw, dried grass, it is increased to 6-10 cm.
3. In small areas, spring mulching is also recommended using the same materials, as well as black film. At the same time, both for winter and spring garlic, not only the water and nutritional regimes improve, a crust does not form, but weed infestation is significantly reduced, and the yield increases by 20-30%.
4. On the basis of experiments carried out in various soil and climatic zones, it was found that in mulched areas, the height of plants, the number and area of ​​leaves were greater compared to plants in areas where mulching was not used. Moreover, the yield of garlic and net income per 1 ha of crops increased. Mulching increased the yield of elite material on seed plots by 17-35%.

Video

A variant of mulching garlic beds is presented. Helpful video.

Why Mulch Garlic?

1. Mulching of winter garlic is carried out in the fall, but it is needed not so much from freezing as to preserve soil moisture and so that the soil does not crack, that is, it was not necessary to weed and loosen it.
2. Mulch allows the plant to live more easily from watering to watering, but does not replace it in any way.
3. Shelter of garlic better retains snow in the areas, warms the soil to some extent, improves its water-air regime, prevents swimming and the formation of an ice crust. In early spring, it prevents the formation of a dry crust and cracks on the soil surface, water loss, erosion and leaching of nutrients.
4. In addition, mulching garlic to a certain extent delays the early emergence of weeds, and late ones after the decomposition of the mulch in May are easier to destroy mechanically or using herbicides.