Growing winter garlic in open ground. Growing garlic: the necessary conditions and subtleties of agricultural technology. How to grow garlic large, vigorous, so that it can be stored for a long time. Planting garlic winter varieties

16.02.2018

Everything about proper cultivation spring and winter garlic in open ground, about what to do if it turns yellow in the spring, how to water and how to feed you will learn from this guide. The information will be especially useful for beginners, as well as useful for experienced gardeners. Growing garlic does not usually cause big problems and yet, for a good harvest, it is necessary to follow the rules of planting, care and feeding.

What is the difference between spring garlic and winter garlic

Gardeners know that garlic can be winter and spring, and what are the differences between them you will see from the table and photo:

Spring garlic	Winter garlic
There are more teeth - from 12 to 30 pieces, but they are smaller	An arrow sticks out in the middle of the bottom, which is surrounded by 4-12 large teeth
Bulbs are smaller and have more scales	Bulbs and cloves are larger and more productive
The teeth on the bottom of the bulb are arranged in a spiral from the periphery to the center, with the outer ones being larger	In the middle is a thick and hard rod, around which the teeth
planted in early spring	planted in autumn
It ripens in September, it is laid for winter storage and consumed until the next harvest.	Can only be stored until February

Winter garlic is more common, but in the northern regions they prefer to grow spring garlic, as winter planting plants can freeze.

Varieties of garlic with photos and descriptions

Most often, garlic is propagated by cloves, of which there are from 4 to 12 in each bulb, and sometimes more.

Do not use garlic as planting material grocery store. It may not be suitable for growing in your area, and in most cases it is treated with special substances that make it difficult to grow. It's best to buy garlic to plant from a trusted online seed store or local nursery.

Varieties of garlic are divided into two groups:

1. Arrows - they have a flowering shoot coming out of the center of the bulb - an arrow ending in an inflorescence. It consists of bulbs ( air bulbs) and flower buds, which subsequently dry up without producing seeds. A sign of ripening in them is the yellowing of the leaves and arrows. All arrow varieties of garlic are considered winter.
2. Non-shooting- in such plants, only leaves develop during the growing season. These varieties can be both winter and spring.

The best varieties of garlic for planting before winter

Arrows

Dubkovsky - a variety of medium ripening - 98–114 days pass from germination to harvest. Productivity is 5.6 kg per 10 m 2. Bulbs weighing 30 g, rounded flat, dense. There are 10-12 cloves in a bulb. The taste is spicy. Recommended for cultivation in Krasnodar Territory, Kurgan, Rostov and Pskov regions.

Anniversary Gribovsky is the most common medium-term variety - 83-122 days pass from germination to drying of the leaves. Productivity is high - an average of 12.5 kg per 10 m 2. Bulbs 20–30 g each, rounded flat, with large teeth. The taste is very spicy. The variety is relatively winter-hardy, resistant to drought, major pests and diseases, adapts well to different weather conditions. For cultivation in northern and central regions Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Ukraine.

Otradnensky - medium-late variety - from germination to drying of the leaves takes 95-135 days, universal purpose. The yield is very high - 12–13.5 kg per 10 m 2. Bulbs are more than 30 g, rounded flat, each with up to eight cloves. The variety is very winter-hardy. Good for growing in Primorsky Krai and Mordovia.

Sail is a variety of medium ripening time - time from germination to harvest: 96–108 days. Yields from 6 to 10 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs weighing 30–47 g, rounded flat, dense, well stored, they contain 7–10 cloves. The taste is spicy. The variety is winter-hardy. Recommended for cultivation in the Voronezh and Nizhny Novgorod regions, in Ukraine, in Stavropol Territory and Kazakhstan.

Siberian - medium term - from germination to harvest 81-113 days, universal. The average yield is 5.8 kg per 10 m 2. Bulbs weighing 20–30 g, rounded flat, with medium-sized cloves (4–5 pcs.). The taste is spicy and semi-sharp. Suitable for cultivation in Novosibirsk, Kemerovo, Omsk and Tomsk regions.

Non-shooting

Novosibirsk - a variety of medium early ripening - from germination to harvesting takes 68-82 days, universal purpose. Productivity is 5–6 kg from 10 m 2. Bulbs weighing up to 30 g, rounded, well stored. There are 9-13 cloves in the bulb. The taste is semi-sharp, delicate. Recommended for Novosibirsk and Kemerovo regions.

Saki - an early variety - from germination to yellowing of the leaves takes 100-115 days, universal purpose. Productivity 4.2 kg per 10 m2 Bulbs weighing 20 g, flat and round-flat, with wide cone-shaped teeth. There are 11–13 of them in the bulb. The taste is spicy. Well suited for growing in the Crimea.

Varieties of garlic for planting in the spring

Among spring varieties, especially big role belongs to numerous local forms, which are usually very well preserved. Among them:

• Danilovsky (variety of the Yaroslavl region).
• Bryansky, Ufimsky (varieties of Bashkortostan).
• Cheboksary (a variety of Chuvashia), etc.

Garlic varieties degenerate quickly, so they need to be changed periodically.

What kind of soil is needed for garlic

Garlic grows well on fertile loose light sandy or loamy soil, in flood-free areas, with sufficient sunlight; areas shaded by trees are not suitable for this crop. It does not tolerate both excessive moisture and prolonged drying of the soil.

It is good if the bed is located on a sunny hillock and is protected from the wind by a fence, trees or shrubs. In the spring, water should not stagnate there.

Before planting, the soil is dug up, loosened, the roots of perennial weeds are selected and carefully leveled.

When digging for 1 m 2, humus (1–2 buckets) and wood ash (2–4 kg) are added. Instead of ash, you can take superphosphate and potassium salt (15-20 g each).

Acidic soil is limed. The bed is prepared two weeks before planting, as it must settle a little so that the garlic cloves do not go deep into the ground.

How to soak garlic before planting

Before planting, garlic is treated with a weak solution of trace elements (one tablet is dissolved in 1 liter of water) or an infusion of birch wood ash: 1 tablespoon of ash is thoroughly mixed in 1 liter hot water and soak the garlic for one night.

To avoid the most common garlic disease - false powdery mildew, the teeth before planting are heated for 12 hours at 40 ° C and treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.

Growing garlic outdoors

The bulbs and cloves of winter garlic are larger and more productive than spring garlic, but the latter, due to the many scales, is stored longer. Both forms are best grown outdoors.

When and how to plant winter garlic

Winter garlic cloves are planted before winter after harvesting vegetables.
cultures. For landing choose the largest and healthy bulbs- without a single blemish. Small teeth are discarded, only large ones are planted. It is very important to do it on time.

• AT middle lane Russia is usually recommended planting dates from September 15-20 to October 5, a few weeks before the onset of stable November cold weather.
• Winter garlic is planted in the central regions of the Non-Chernozem zone in the third decade of September.
• In the Moscow region, the best landing time is from September 25 to October 5.
• AT northern regions dates are moved to earlier, in the south - to later.

Such planting dates are due to the fact that the teeth should take root well before the onset of winter stable cold weather.

Following such advice, amateur vegetable growers are often mistaken if in late September - early October after cold weather suddenly set relatively warm. And then not only the roots, but also the sprouts begin to grow actively, and the subsequent November frosts destroy them.

With a delay in planting, the teeth do not have time to take root until the end of October and winter poorly. In spring, such seedlings in best case become sparse and frail. To avoid mistakes, it is desirable to know a long-term and reliable weather forecast.

Planting scheme for winter garlic

Teeth of the same size are planted in two lines. The landing pattern is as follows:

• the distance between rows is not less than 20 cm;
• between teeth in a row - 8–10 cm;

The planting depth depends on the type of soil: on light soils it is 8-10 cm from the top of the clove to the soil surface, on heavy soils it is 5-6 cm. may die.

For each square meter you need 50 cloves, or 300 g of garlic (6-7 heads).

Although garlic is a cold-resistant crop, in November-December the snow “coat” is still too unreliable and thin, so it is better to insulate the bed by sprinkling it with peat, well-rotted manure or loose compost soil with a layer of 2 cm.

Such mulching will do a good job in early spring, as the soil will warm up faster. In addition, the mulch will keep the surface of the soil from crusting and help conserve the moisture that the garlic needs. As a result, this technique alone significantly stimulates the development of young plants, increasing the yield by 10-15%.

How to grow winter garlic from bulbs (air bulbs)

Usually air bulbs are used to obtain planting material - sevka. One or two days before harvesting the garlic, the arrows are cut off, leaving 2-3 cm above the bulb, tied into sheaves and left under a canopy for 25-30 days.

If bulbs are planted before winter, next year they will produce single-pronged bulbs (sevok), which will be planting material.

Before sowing bulbs - air bulbs are separated from the arrows by shaking, then calibrated. The smallest ones (less than 2 mm in diameter) are not suitable for sowing, since they produce very small single-pronged bulbs. It will take three years to grow bulbs from them that can be divided into teeth.

Bulbs are sown in the third decade of September, like cloves of garlic, on the ridges in rows, between which a distance of 10–15 cm is left. 8–10 g of bulbs are sown per square meter of ridges to a depth of 3–4 cm. Crops are mulched with peat or humus layer 2 cm.

The next year after germination, the plants are fed with nitrogen and potash fertilizers: 10–15 g ammonium nitrate and 5 g of potassium salt per 1 m 2. The crops are watered, the aisles are loosened shallowly, weeds must be removed.

When the leaves turn yellow and dry, the plants are dug up, single-toothed bulbs are selected from the soil, dried and prepared for autumn planting.

Single-toothed onion sets are planted in the same way as cloves of garlic. In the second year, normal shooters and bulbs are obtained, dividing into teeth.

Growing garlic from bulbs (how to rejuvenate garlic) - video

Air bulbs can also be sown in spring. To do this, they are stored in a cold (2–5 °С) or warm (18–20 °С) room in unthreshed sheaves. So they are better preserved. Early spring sowing of air bulbs after cold storage is almost the same as winter sowing.

After storage in heat (18–20 °C) and at early spring sowing well-developed plants grow: their growing season is longer than that of plants of winter sowing and cold storage. They give large sets, but of a later ripening period.

If you did not have time to sow garlic in early spring, you can do it in June. In this case, the plants do not form a bulb and continue to grow until the onset of winter. After overwintering in the soil, the next year they grow and develop in the same way as arrowhead garlic plants grown from cloves, but produce a smaller bulb.

How to plant spring garlic in spring

Two or three weeks before planting spring garlic in the spring in open ground, the storage temperature of planting material is reduced from 18-20 to 2 C. Immediately before planting, the heads are divided into teeth and the largest of them are selected.

After preparing the soil, it is carefully leveled with a rake, longitudinal grooves are made, the distance between their centers is 20 cm, between the teeth - 5-6 cm.

The planting depth is 2-3 cm. The teeth should be planted in the center of the groove, bottom down. Shoots begin to appear in 13-15 days.

Outdoor garlic care

Caring for garlic plants consists in systematic loosening to a shallow depth (4-5 cm), so as not to damage the root system, in the destruction of weeds, watering and top dressing.

How to water garlic

During the period of active growth of garlic plants, the soil should always be moist. The lack of sufficient moisture reduces the yield, reduces the number of cloves in the bulbs.

Spring garlic is more moisture-loving than winter garlic and needs watering. Watering is necessary until mid-June. But garlic also does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil.

How and how to feed garlic after winter so that it does not turn yellow

The leaves of winter garlic begin to grow very early, when the snow has not yet had time to melt everywhere. However, often instead of bright green young shoots, gardeners see pale yellow and frail ones. The reason lies in the malnutrition of plants. So that the garlic planted before winter does not turn yellow, water your plantings with a solution of ammonium nitrate in the spring ( matchbox dissolve fertilizer in a bucket of water).

The second top dressing is carried out around mid-May. At this time, it is customary to feed the plants with a mixture of mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt (10, 20 and 10 g per 1 m 2, respectively).

How to water the garlic in the spring so that it does not turn yellow if you want to do without "chemistry"? In this case, it is better to use for top dressing organic fertilizers, for example, a weekly infusion of fresh chicken manure(compared to mullein, it has more nitrogen).

If the plantings dry up, water the soil abundantly, starting from the third decade of May and throughout June. The earth is periodically loosened with a chopper, weed weeds, preventing their growth.

The last, third, time garlic is fed at the end of June, when the bulbs are finally formed. Summer food is an infusion of mullein (1 liter of fertilizer is diluted in a bucket of water) or an infusion of weeds growing on a compost heap, in the same concentration. You can limit yourself to top dressing with superphosphate (5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Since this fertilizer is poorly soluble in water, it is first boiled for 30 minutes in a cup of water, stirring frequently.

How and what to feed spring garlic

Shoots of spring garlic begin to appear 13-15 days after planting. With mass shoots, the soil surface must be loosened and fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, 15 g of ammonium nitrate is dissolved in 10 liters of water and evenly poured into the grooves at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m 2. When the liquid is absorbed, the grooves are covered with dry soil.

The second top dressing with nitrogen and potassium (potassium chloride) fertilizers should be given in the four-leaf formation phase at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water.

The third top dressing - potash and phosphorus (superphosphate) fertilizers - in the seventh leaf phase - at the rate of 20 g per 10 l of water, the solution consumption is 10 l per 1 m 2. Water the garlic after each feeding.

Around the twentieth of June, garlic throws out flower arrows, at the end of which air bulbs (bulbs) develop. A few of the most powerful shooters that appear first can be left to seed. The rest are gradually removed at the stage of formation, when they are good as vitamin greens for salads and canning.

Timely breaking out of arrows at the very base, from the axils of the leaves, increases the yield and allows you to grow large garlic.

Do I need to tie the garlic after the arrows break? The practice of tying garlic arrows in a knot, practiced by some vegetable growers, does not give anything, since the development of arrows does not stop, and a good half of the nutrients do not enter the bulb.

Harvesting and storing garlic

Stop watering the garlic a few weeks before harvest. To determine if the garlic is ready to be harvested, inspect several bulbs, thoroughly cleaning off the dirt.

When to dig up garlic planted before winter

A sign of the ripening of garlic is the cessation of the formation of new leaves. In non-shooting varieties, the leaves turn yellow, in shooters, the covers on the bulbs crack, dense wrappers form on the bulbs, and the head becomes ribbed.

As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, then the garlic is ripe. Now you can’t hesitate with cleaning - if you delay, the teeth break the wrapper and crumble, such heads will be unsuitable for long-term storage.

Garlic is harvested in dry weather. Ripe bulbs are dug up with a pitchfork, carefully selected from the soil and laid out in rows for several days to dry under the sun.

Then the roots and stem are cut with secateurs, leaving about 1.5 cm. If the stem is shorter, the hard scales of the cloves can be damaged, and then the garlic will not be stored well.

When to Harvest Spring Garlic

Depending on the variety and weather conditions spring garlic ripens in late August, September. The main signs of ripeness:

• tops lodging;
• drying of the lower leaves;
• yellowing of the upper leaves;
• death of the roots (they become thin, dark).

For cleaning, you need to choose dry weather. You can not delay cleaning, because in rainy weather garlic forms new roots and sprouts. The bulbs are dug up with a shovel or pitchfork and picked from the soil. Dry them in the air or indoors until the leaves are completely dry.

Then the bulbs are cleaned of the remnants of the adhering earth, the roots and the false stem are cut off 4-5 cm above the shoulders. After that, the garlic is finally dried (it should rustle when tedding) and stored.

How to store garlic in the winter at home so as not to dry out

It is better to process the main part of the crop immediately and make preparations for the winter. The rest is stored until spring in a room where a fairly low, but positive temperature is kept in winter with low air humidity. Prepared heads are placed in boxes, baskets or mesh bags; they can be woven into braids.

At a temperature of 1-3 C, they will remain juicy and fresh for a long time and will not germinate or dry out until spring.

Experienced vegetable growers know how to properly store garlic at home with room temperature. There are two reliable methods suitable for a city apartment:

1. Well-dried heads of garlic are put in a canvas bag, tied and put into plastic bag leaving it open.
2. Another method is to take a jar or pan, put a 2-3 cm layer of salt on the bottom, then put the heads of garlic and cover with salt again, etc. The top row must be covered with salt, but it must not be raw.

What can be planted after garlic next year

Garlic can be returned to its original place only after four to five years. As an exception, this is possible, but only if the infection did not accumulate in the soil during the first year of cultivation, which is easy to check if you carefully examine the heads of garlic grown there. If he is perfectly healthy, without the slightest sign of any damage, you can take a chance and plant garlic in the same place next year, but no more.

It is undesirable to plant onions after garlic, since these crops are affected by the same diseases.

Here's what you can plant after garlic:

• cucumbers;
• zucchini;
• pumpkin;
• early harvested root crops and early cabbage;
• all legumes and green crops.

Garlic is a very useful and popular crop that every gardener grows. The process of getting a rich harvest and planting in open ground in the spring is quite simple, and even a beginner can handle it, the main thing is to follow all the rules.

Via step by step instructions planting and growing heads of garlic in the country is not difficult in the Moscow region, and in Belarus, and even in Transbaikalia.

Garlic can be planted in both autumn and spring. The specific time will depend from the selected variety.

Experienced gardeners know that such a crop can be represented by winter or spring varieties. These two species differ not only in terms of landing, but also in many other characteristics. You can plant and transplant them at different times, the same applies to sowing seeds for seedlings.

To distinguish them from each other, you need to know the main external features of each type:

• winter garlic planted autumn, it is larger, the lobules are covered with a hard shell. In the middle is a thick and hard rod, around which the teeth are located;
• spring is placed in open ground in early spring. Such heads are smaller in size, their skin is soft and resembles parchment. The teeth are small, their arrangement is chaotic.

Winter garlic is suitable for fresh consumption and conservation, such varieties are stored for only 3-4 months. Spring has a less intense taste, but it can be used until the next harvest.

The specific landing time will depend on climatic conditions region:

1. When carrying out autumn planting, it is worth remembering that by the time the first frosts appear at the beginning of winter, the teeth should have time to form a powerful root system, this process takes an average of 3-4 weeks. Based on this, all work should be carried out a month before the onset of frost, that is late September-early October;
2. Spring planting is carried out immediately after the winter snow cover has melted, and the garden soil has warmed up to +6 degrees. Depending on the region, this may be April or early May.

Advantages of autumn and spring head planting

When choosing what time to plant garlic, you need to think about the fact that not only the process of work depends on it, but also yield characteristics how it will sprout and whether it will have to be transplanted into summer period.

Winter garlic	Spring garlic
The taste of spring garlic is less intense, and the heads and cloves are small compared to winter varieties.	Winter garlic boasts large cloves that are easy to peel before cooking and a bright spicy taste.
Spring garlic ripens for a long time, the yield of varieties of this type remains at a low level	Winter garlic ripens a month earlier than spring garlic, so fresh cloves can be used already in summer, moreover, the yield of this species is much higher
Spring garlic is able to retain its freshness for up to 12 months.	Winter garlic is stored only 3-4 months
Spring planting guarantees friendly germination and safe plant growth.	When planting in the autumn, it should be borne in mind that there is always a risk of an earlier onset of frost or too much precipitation that can ruin the plantings.
When caring for spring garlic, you should take care of sufficient watering during the formation of teeth.	Winter varieties are formed using ground moisture
Spring varieties of garlic are not afraid of common diseases and pests	Autumn varieties are most defenseless against various ailments.

The choice of planting dates and the type of vegetable grown will depend on the purpose of cultivation. Experienced gardeners recommend planting in beds both winter and spring plants.

Growing technology and features of sowing seeds in the country

Each landing time has its own individual characteristics relating to work. But there are also general rules, which should be followed regardless of the time factor:

1. Before planting a vegetable, it must be calibrate, that is, remove heads that are too small and somewhat affected by diseases;
2. The most common mistake that many gardeners make is planting winter crops in the spring. In this case, you can get a crop, but it will not be as tasty and large as during autumn planting;
3. In order to receive guaranteed harvest should be purchased zoned varieties. It is also worthwhile to study in advance all the characteristics, technology, how to sow and needs;
4. Should be done once every 3 years variety rejuvenation, that is, instead of teeth, bulbs will be used as planting material, from which single teeth ripen in the first season. The resulting crop is used for planting the next year. As a result of such work, garlic is updated;
5. In order to harvest a quality crop, you must not miss the deadlines. You can identify them by the arrow, which should burst. Bulbs should also form;
6. To get a richer harvest, garlic feathers should be cut off in a timely manner.

The most important rule to follow when planting garlic is to meet the deadlines.

In autumn, teeth should not be planted too early so that they do not germinate ahead of time, but in spring it is impossible to delay planting, because then the heads may not have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather.

Rules for planting garlic in open ground

In order for the cultivation to be successful, it is necessary to properly carry out planting work. It is also very important to properly care for plantings and perform the necessary work in a timely manner.

Seedling cloves preparation

In order to get friendly shoots, which will subsequently bring good harvest need to work hard and process correctly planting material :

1. 1. Well-dried garlic heads are divided into cloves without damaging the dry flakes;
   2. Then spend calibration, selecting large and healthy slices;
   3. Before spring planting, the teeth can be stimulated to a faster appearance of roots; for this, planting material wrapped in damp cloth and put in the refrigerator for several days;
   4. Before planting the teeth in the ground, they must be prepared.

There are three processing methods:

1. • Slices are soaked in warm water for 10-12 hours;
   • Table salt, which is diluted in water (3 tablespoons per 5 liters), is also well suited for these purposes. This procedure is carried out for several minutes;
   • Another way would be chemicals that have a stimulating effect.
2. The last important step will be disinfection. To do this, the teeth are immersed in a solution for 1-2 minutes. blue vitriol(1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Potassium permanganate solution, Fitosporin-M preparation and ash infusion are also well suited for antimicrobial treatment. In this case, the processing will last 30 minutes.

Site selection and soil preparation

Garlic is quite capricious about the choice of soil and places for planting. When preparing the site, you should remember all the preferences of this culture:

• in the best way the vegetable takes root on loamy and chernozem soils with neutral acidity;
• place should be sunny and open;
• it is not recommended to plant garlic where onions, potatoes and tomatoes grew before it. Cabbage, legumes, zucchini and cucumbers are considered desirable predecessors.

At spring planting soil preparation is carried out in the fall, and in the autumn one month before the work. This procedure includes deep digging, loosening, removal of weeds and stones.

In order to balance the composition of the soil, clay and sandy soil is diluted with peat, and peat soil with loam.

In order to get a rich harvest, the soil must be enrich. The following fertilizers are applied per square meter of soil:

• 1 bucket of humus or rotted manure;
• 1 bucket of compost;
• 1 glass of dolomite flour;
• 1 tablespoon of superphosphate;
• 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska.

The final part will be the disinfection of plantings, during which the beds are watered with copper sulfate or a solution of potassium permanganate. Experienced gardeners recommend covering the ridges with foil until the work is done.

Step-by-step instructions and how deep to plant

Vegetables are planted in rows, the distance between which should be equal to 20-25 centimeters. The distance between the individual teeth will depend on their size, on average this figure is 10 centimeters.

teeth deepen strictly vertical. In the spring, the embedment depth will be 5-6 centimeters. In autumn, this figure should be increased to 10 centimeters. This is necessary in order to protect the planting material from freezing.

Care

Garlic care after planting will consist of timely loosening and cleaning the soil from weeds. Also, do not forget about watering. During the growing season, the application of moisture should be plentiful.

Watering is reduced to a moderate size when the formation of fruits begins, because with an excess of moisture, garlic can be susceptible to various diseases. In rainy weather, watering should be reduced. Moisture application is stopped 2 weeks before harvest.

In addition to watering, garlic needs regular feeding:

1. 1 time in 10 days the soil is watered with a solution of phosphorus and potash fertilizers;
2. At the beginning of the growing season and after the formation of the plant head, fertilize with infusion of mullein or chicken manure. 1 kilogram of fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water and infused for several days. After the end of fermentation, 1 liter of top dressing is diluted with 10 liters of water.

For additional protection from diseases and pests, spend in the spring preventive treatments fungicides and insecticides.

How to transplant garlic in the spring, planted before winter

It often happens that after the autumn planting of garlic, the gardener's plans change dramatically and the beds have to be transplanted to a new place. Many sources do not recommend such a procedure, because it can damage the root system of plants and destroy them.

But if work is necessary, then the landings are transferred along with a big earthy clod . In this case, losses will be minimal, but in any case, a smaller crop should be expected.

You can plant garlic in spring and autumn. The specific time frame for completing the work will depend on the desired result. The key to successful work will be compliance with all the above rules.

Winter garlic can be found in almost every garden. He doesn't need special care, likes to grow on fertile loamy or sandy loamy neutral soil. Winter garlic is cultivated in open ground everywhere, even in regions with a cold harsh climate. In the article we will tell you step by step the cultivation of winter garlic in the open field, how and when to plant in the fall.

Types and features of winter garlic

Winter garlic, as a rule, gives a more abundant harvest than spring. They begin to use it when it is not yet fully ripe, at the beginning of summer. Later it is determined for storage, but it is easier to store spring garlic until the next ripening. There are two types of winter garlic: shooter and non-shooter. The latter is better stored if it is provided with proper care, it is removed on time, it is stored at a low positive temperature until spring.

Winter garlic often pleases gardeners and gardeners with its harvest, the main thing is to choose the right variety, plant it correctly and take care of it.

However, when infected with viral diseases, non-shooting winter garlic weakens, degenerates, and cannot be renewed. Therefore, it is less common. Shooting winter garlic gives the richest harvests and is more often used in summer and winter for food. Timely harvested, fully ripened arrowhead garlic is stored for a very long time. With the help of bulbs, it is constantly updated. He doesn't degenerate.

The teeth grow in the soil, so they can become infected with viruses or fungi. A new plant that grows from an infected clove will be infected initially. Get in a couple of years good plant it will be impossible to obtain, since degeneration will come. In addition, garlic shrinks over time. Therefore, planting material must be updated every 2-3 years.

As such, garlic does not have seeds. Those who think that bulbils are just seeds are mistaken, but this is wrong. Inside the seeds there is an ovule, which begins to develop after fertilization, and a new plant grows from it. And bulbs are special organs that are used only for vegetative propagation. Winter arrow garlic, together with flowering, forms air bulbs, which are called bulbs.

In order to get green feathers, perennial garlic is grown, which does not have bulbs, but has seeds with which it propagates. Ornamental garlic is also propagated through seeds, but it is not eaten at all, but grown for its spectacular appearance and phytocides, with which this garlic disinfects the air around it. Winter garlic, which is grown for cloves, has no seeds.

When planting winter garlic in the fall

The photo shows what winter garlic looks like, which has already risen, there are two types of winter garlic - arrow and non-shoot.

The main difficulty is that it is necessary to predict when real frosts will come. However, it is approximately known when winter will come - this is the time to navigate, paying attention to the days recommended for landing in the lunar calendar.

Preparation of beds and planting material

For recovery seed before winter, single-toothed ones grown from bulbs are planted, from which not a full-fledged head is grown during the season, but only one large clove, which has all the advantages of its variety. And of these single-toothed, planted in autumn in open ground, in next year in the summer they will receive beautiful heads, which consist of many cloves. Thus, the "seeds" will give a full harvest in just a couple of years.

Before planting, single teeth and teeth must be disinfected. To do this, they are placed in a 1% solution of copper sulfate for 25 minutes or in a solution of ash alkali for 2 hours: 1 cup wood ash pour 2 liters of water and boil for half an hour. After harvesting pumpkins, cabbage, zucchini, cucumbers, squash, the beds are prepared for garlic. They need to be dug up, potassium sulfate and superphosphate, compost or humus added, watered and left to rest for several weeks.

The main rule of quality and big harvest winter garlic - plant it correctly, basically everyone plant this plant with teeth.

The soil must settle down so that when the roots grow, there will be no ground movement. The roots are not very deep, but grow vertically down. If the soil moves, the roots will have to bend upward, and this will reflect badly on the crop, and no amount of care can fix this.

Tip #1 It is advisable to raise the bed by 10 cm so that there is no stagnation of melt water in the spring.

In order for the garlic cloves to winter well, they must be deepened by 10-12 cm. The distance between large cloves should be at least 10 cm, between small ones - a little less, since their heads will not grow very large. Between rows - 15 cm. When preparing planting grooves, some gardeners put ash or sand on the bottom so that the teeth do not touch the soil.

It is believed that in this case it will be easier for them to take root. If they still sprouted before frost, they must be covered. nonwoven fabric or mulch with peat or sawdust mixed with the ground. In the spring it is all removed. Garlic rarely freezes, but it should not get wet or wet under the covering material when the soil begins to thaw.

Winter Garlic Care

Growing winter garlic in open ground does not require special care. It must be watered, fed, if necessary weeded, loosened the soil. As soon as the snow melts, the beds are fed with a solution of mullein or chicken manure with the addition of superphosphate and potassium salt. If there is no rain, then planting should be watered every week. Top dressing can be combined with watering. When not very fertile soil at phase 4 leaves, urea should be added, and when forming heads, feed with superphosphate.

Watering should be stopped 20 days before harvesting - this way the crop will be better stored. When caring for arrow varieties of winter garlic, shooters are allowed to grow up to 20 cm, then, if bulbs are not grown, they are pinched. Arrows are often left at several plants for aerial "seeds" to ripen in order to improve the next year's crop. In order for the heads of garlic to ripen faster, you need to rake the soil from them and leave them a third open.

Usually winter garlic is more productive, so the harvest will please both the quantity and size of its fruits.

Harvesting winter garlic

From about mid-July, garlic begins to be harvested. A more accurate period depends on the variety grown, on the size of the head, on caring for it, and on the climate. The crop should be harvested when the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall down. Being late will not affect the quality of the heads. However, if the mature heads remain in the soil, then the scales will dissolve, the teeth will be exposed and in this form they will not be able to be stored for a long time. All garlic cannot ripen at the same time, so harvesting is delayed for several days.

The dug heads, if the weather is dry, remain to dry directly on the bed. They can be moved under the roof, but they require fresh air with the wind. After a week, the crop should be removed into the room and dried so that you can rub the root lobe with your fingers without effort.

Tip #2 Garlic heads are stored at a temperature not exceeding +3 degrees at medium humidity.

The best varieties of winter garlic

The following varieties are popular among gardeners:

Variety name	Characteristic
Alcor	Shooting variety. Heads are medium. Planted most often in the garden. From the moment of planting to the appearance of the first leaves, 87-98 days pass. Leaf length 16-41 cm. Width 0.7-2.5 cm. The leaf is dark green with a bluish-gray tint. The length of the arrow is 66-102 cm. At the end of the arrow there are large dense bulbs with 4-5 pink-purple teeth. Head weight 13-36 g. Productive variety. May suffer from yellow dwarfism.
Lyubasha	Strelkuyuschie winter-hardy, drought-resistant. The luminiferous stem can grow up to 120-150 cm. The length of the dark green leaf is 35-45 cm. The width is 25 mm. A flattened bulb weighs 12-375 g. The number of cloves in the head is 5-9. The weight of a clove is 15-20 g.
Antonnik	Arrows. Heads are medium. The dark green leaf with a waxy tint is 34 cm long and 3.7 cm wide. The round head weighs 54-72 g. It has 4-5 white-pink dense teeth, semi-sharp in taste. 1005th yield. The heads are large. The variety is resistant to Fusarium.
Hermann	The variety is good to grow in the garden. Heads are medium. Arrows. The length of the green leaf with a wax coating is 60 cm, the width is 2.1 cm. The flattened head weighs 42-54 g. It has 6-7 creamy sharp teeth. The variety is stored up to 8 months.
Dobrynya	Late shooter variety. Ripening period 120-130 days. Leaf length 55 cm, width 2.5 cm. The weight of the round head is 60 g. The number of teeth is 14. Their weight is up to 6 g. They are light cream in color, dense, semi-sharp in taste. The variety is stored for up to 6 months, but the fruits are preserved up to 80%. The heads are large. The variety is productive.
Dubkovsky	For growing in the garden. Shooting universal mid-season variety. Ripens in 98-114 days. Green leaf with a slight wax coating. The length of the leaves is 34 cm, the width is 1.6 cm. The bulbs are small, airy, pale purple, dense, with 10-12 teeth. Head weight 32 g. Can propagate through air bulbs.
Zubrenok	Shooting variety. The dark green leaf is 46 cm long and 3.7 cm wide. The round head weighs 72 g. There are 6 cloves in the head. They are white, dense, taste - peninsular. The variety is valued for large heads, productivity.
healer	For growing in the garden. Does not shoot, early variety. Ripens in 100-108 days. Light green leaves are 43 cm long, up to 2 cm wide. A round-flat head weighs 42 g. It has up to 16 teeth. They are semi-sharp in taste. The variety is stored up to 7 months. But the safety of fruits is up to 60%. High-yielding, transportable, winter-hardy.

In the photo you can see how the beds should look like, how the holes with planted garlic should be located, then the plant will have enough space for growth and development.

Diseases of winter garlic

Garlic bacteriosis. This disease is caused by putrefactive bacteria penetrating into undried, poorly ripened heads. If the disease develops rapidly, the heads rot right in the garden. However, most often rot appears during storage. At the same time, in-depth strips or sores appear on the teeth, which go up from the bottom. Fabrics become mother-of-pearl yellow. The teeth affected by the disease, most often when planting, take root weakly, winter badly.

Rust. This is fungal disease that affects the leaves. It manifests itself in the form of pads - light yellow in color and slightly convex. Later they turn black. If the rust develops strongly, the leaves dry out ahead of time. In warm weather, the development of the disease passes very quickly. In cold weather it slows down.

White rot. The disease affects garlic at any age during the growing season or during storage. In infected young plants, the leaves turn yellow, starting from the top, and die off. Garlic quickly withers and dies. A fluffy white mycelium appears on the scales and roots of the heads, the teeth become watery and rot.

Pests of winter garlic

Onion fly. She leaves her larvae at the base of the garlic stalks. Larvae, developing, feed on plant sap. This causes the leaves to turn yellow. To fight larvae onion fly you can use a folk remedy: dilute 200 g of salt in a bucket of water and treat the beds with garlic with the resulting solution.

Stem nematode. This is almost the most malicious pest that affects garlic and onions. There are no ways to deal with it that provide 100% freedom from pests, because after harvesting they go into the ground and can live in it for up to five years without food. The stems of affected plants begin to turn yellow and curl, the heads crack and rot. Garlic infected with a nematode must be removed, acidic soil should be limed. Garlic and onions are not planted on contaminated soil for at least five years. Planting material is heated for 10 hours at a temperature of 48 degrees.

With proper care, planting and cultivation, usually winter garlic is rarely exposed to diseases and pests.

Questions and answers about growing winter garlic

Question number 1. How to distinguish winter garlic from spring?

Winter garlic should be planted before winter, and in spring spring. They differ in outward signs. When comparing the heads of these two species, it is clearly seen that winter garlic has several large cloves in one row. As a rule, there are 4-12 of them. They are located around a solid rod. The teeth are covered with a pink-violet shell.

Spring garlic has no stem and a lot of small, arranged in several rows of cloves - about 25. Winter garlic until spring is almost not preserved. It must be dug in the summer. Part of the crop is used as seed. The taste of winter garlic is very pungent. Spring is consumed all winter, as it does not lose its qualities and does not dry out.

Question number 2. What types of planting material can be used for growing winter garlic?

There are three types of planting material for planting garlic before winter:

• bulbs,
• head teeth,
• single-tooth bulbs grown from bulbs.

We grow best harvest outdoor garlic

Before planting garlic, a growing method should be chosen, which may depend on varietal characteristics or desired harvest time. In the future, garlic, which is properly grown and cared for in the open field, will thank you with a generous and large harvest.

Winter and spring varieties of garlic

Varietal diversity garlic is quite large, since varieties are divided into two groups, differing in the method of cultivation and planting dates:

• Winter crops (shooters and non-shooters);
• Spring (non-shooting).

Winter varieties

Characterized by larger heads and early maturation. Basically, the cultivation of winter garlic in the open field is carried out for human consumption and culinary use, since it is poorly stored.

Shooting varieties ripen faster than non-shooting varieties, but require additional labor to break arrows. Among the most popular winter varieties are:

• Zubrenok is a fruitful arrow variety, with large heads.
• Alcor is a common variety among gardeners. Bulbs of medium size. The scales of the teeth are pink-violet.
• Lyubasha is an arrowing variety with high juicy tops and large flattened bulbs.
• Herman is the most storable of winter varieties of garlic with multi-toothed, medium-sized heads.
• Lekar is a non-shooting variety of medium ripening. Heads include up to sixteen cloves, transportable.

Spring varieties

Spring varieties of garlic do not release arrows. The teeth of the head are formed in several rows, and the outer ones are always larger and are recommended for further landing. Spring garlic, planting and care in open ground for which differs from winter garlic, has smaller bulbs in comparison with them, but it is stored much longer (up to a new crop).

• Moscow - a large-fruited variety with white heads.
• Gulliver - characterized by dense flattened heads of white color and keeping quality up to 8 months.
• Victorio - has a high resistance to disease. The teeth are yellowish in color. The heads are round, medium in size.

Preparing beds for planting garlic

The opinion that garlic will grow everywhere is erroneous. Big harvests are possible only if the site for growing winter garlic or spring varieties is chosen correctly.

Soil selection

• Choose a flat, sunny area. Garlic planted in a lowland will get wet and rot. Its lightness is sharply reduced. In the shade, the vegetable will develop poorly and grow bulbs.
• Suitable fertile and moisture-intensive soil, garlic loves loam, and soils oversaturated with organic matter.

Crop rotation rules for garlic

• It is undesirable to grow garlic after onions, cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes. The most suitable for garlic will be the beds on which cabbage, potatoes, legumes, or green manure plants grew.
• Garlic is a welcome neighbor for strawberries, strawberries, raspberries, roses, gooseberries and currants. It will scare away pests (slugs, borers, caterpillars and moles) from these crops, while developing well and forming a good harvest.

It is important to know

You can grow garlic in one garden for no more than two years in a row. In the future, this area can be returned to garlic only after four years.

Preparing beds for garlic

The beds should be prepared in advance by digging them up in the fall and mulching them with weeds. In the spring, in advance (at least two weeks in advance), a bed for garlic should be dug up on a shovel bayonet and humus (bucket / m²), superphosphate (30 g / m²), potassium salt (20 g / m²) should be added.

• If the acidity of the soil is increased, lime, chalk or dolomite flour to choose from for deoxidation;
• When the soil is washed out and depleted, the beds should be regularly watered with an ash solution, and the beds should be powdered before digging in the spring and sprinkled with plenty of ash during autumn preparation.

Methods and timing of planting garlic

Garlic is a vegetable that does not form seeds. It reproduces only vegetatively - by cloves or air bulbs formed on the arrows. Therefore, his landing and preparation for it are different.

Bulbs or bulbs (other names are garlic seeds, air seeds, air bulbs) are the organs of vegetative propagation - small onions, which, by definition, are not seeds. But the air box (has a second name - seed case) on the arrow of garlic, in which they grow, is called seed.

Prong preparation

In order for the harvest not to disappoint you, the garlic cloves need to be properly prepared for planting.

• The heads are sorted, choosing the largest ones, and discarding the damaged ones. Even if one tooth with signs of infection is found in the head, the rest are also not suitable for planting.
• Treat the planting material with Fitosporin (soak the garlic for 5 minutes) to prevent fungal diseases. Soaking in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% iodine is possible.
• Apply pre-sowing fertilizer by dipping the tines into the ash liquid (0.5 l of ash pour 1 l of water and boil for 30 minutes). In the future, caring for winter garlic prepared in this way will be easier.

You need to divide the heads of garlic into teeth immediately before planting. Otherwise, the bottom of the bulbs will dry out, and root system will not develop. It is better to remove the upper husk, since it is in it that pathogens and infections accumulate.

Gardener's advice

For planting before winter, garlic cloves must be well dried. Otherwise, it will begin to germinate prematurely and be damaged by frost.

Planting winter garlic

Winter garlic is planted in the fall, 25-30 days before the onset of stable cold weather. Usually this period falls at the end of September - mid-October. During this time, the cloves will take root well, but will not have time to start growing.

• With an earlier autumn planting, the garlic will begin to grow, which is fraught with frost damage to the tops and a decrease in yield.
• With a late one, the teeth will not take root before the onset of cold weather and will freeze in winter.

Garlic is planted in open ground in rows according to the scheme: row spacing - 20-25 cm, distance in a row - 8-10 cm. The teeth are stuck into the prepared grooves with the bottom down to a depth of about 5 cm.

The bottom of the groove should be loose so that the roots can easily penetrate deep into. On light sandy and sandy loamy soils, it is possible to plant garlic to a depth of 12 cm. It is not necessary to water the plantings.

When all the teeth are planted, the bed is leveled with a rake and mulched with peat. Branches or spruce branches are laid on top. They will hold snow and winter garlic, planting and caring for which were initially carried out in accordance with all the rules, will successfully winter.

How to plant winter garlic: cultivation and care, video

Planting air bulbs

The air bulb planting method is used for a two-year crop growing cycle. This planting of winter garlic has several advantages:

• Healthy planting material. They do not come into contact with the ground, so they are not susceptible to infection by harmful bacteria.
• Saving. The best and considerable part of the garlic crop is allocated for planting with teeth.

Air bulbs are planted in the same way as winter garlic cloves. In the first year, heads of one clove will grow from them for further planting, in the second - full-fledged bulbs.

Planting "air seeds" and growing garlic in the open field video

Planting spring garlic

Spring garlic is planted on the beds in early spring (early April), as soon as the snow melts, so you should take care of preparing the site in the fall. It is not worth waiting for the soil to ripen for comfortable work. The sooner the garlic is planted, the greater the harvest will be.

Rows should preferably be arranged in a south-north direction so that the plants are evenly lit. At the same time, planting garlic in the spring is carried out according to the same scheme as for winter (8-10 cm in a row, row spacing 20-25 cm).

Growing and caring for garlic outdoors

In the spring, garlic is one of the first in the garden to grow. In order for the garlic harvest to be generous, plantings must be given due attention. The care of garlic in the open field is reduced to timely top dressing and regular watering.

Garlic care in spring

When the first 2-3 leaves of garlic appear, the soil between the rows needs to be loosened, and then mulched with peat or humus. Plants should be watered as soon as the soil dries out. At the same time, watering should be plentiful (10 l / m²) and regular (once a week).

The lack of moisture negatively affects the crop - the bulbs become smaller or do not form at all. After each watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil in the garden.

In the spring, the following fertilizers are applied:

• In the phase of 3-4 leaves - a solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Garlic is poured with fertilizer from above from a watering can (sprinkling);
• Two weeks later, a solution of nitrophoska or nitroammophoska is added under the garlic (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).

When fertilizing in the spring, you need to remember that nitrogen-containing fertilizers are needed for garlic only in the initial phase of growth. Later, phosphorus-potassium supplements are needed. Nutrient deficiencies can cause premature yellowing of garlic leaves.

Under garlic, which is properly cared for, fresh manure should not be applied, as well as a large number of others nitrogen fertilizers. This will cause a lush growth of green mass at a loss of bulb formation.

Summer care

In summer, watering garlic is gradually reduced, and completely stopped at the end of June (2-3 weeks before harvest). Garlic care in June includes the introduction of the last top dressing. To do this, 2 tablespoons are diluted in 10 liters of water. superphosphate and water the bed with this solution.

Garlic care in July is necessary when arrows winter garlic reach a height of 10 cm, they are broken out. So the plant will not expend energy on the maturation of "children" and the bulbs will be larger.

To propagate garlic with air bulbs, it is enough to leave arrows on several plants. Otherwise, the technology for growing winter garlic and spring garlic is the same.

Protection of garlic from diseases and pests

Garlic is often exposed to fungal diseases such as:

• fusarium;
• bacterial rot;
• white rot;
• black mold.

It is quite difficult to deal with them and spraying with fungicides ( Bordeaux liquid, Fitosporin, etc.) do not always give the desired result. It is easier and more effective to prevent the development of these diseases by dressing the teeth before planting and observing crop rotation.

No less harm is caused by pests that make it difficult to grow both winter and spring garlic. The most dangerous of them:

• stem nematode;
• onion fly.

Used to control nematodes preventive measures. Deep digging of the site, destruction of plant residues, planting chicory and calendula on the site will help.

To combat onion fly, root and garlic mites, as well as onion hoverfly, use special solutions.

Recipe for onion fly

A glass of tobacco dust and a few teaspoons ground pepper pour 2-3 liters of boiling water and leave warm for 3 days. Strain the infusion and dilute with water up to 10 liters, then spray the garlic. Such spraying should be carried out every 10-14 days.

Harvest time is different for different varieties of garlic. Basically, they start harvesting in July, but it is better to determine the readiness more precisely by the yellowed lower leaves and by the ripened and opened air boxes with bulbs. Do not delay harvesting garlic until the tops die off completely. In this case, the heads will fall apart and be poorly stored.

Advice from a gardener

Dig up garlic only in dry weather. Removed from moist soil, it will not store and will rot quickly. When harvesting, you need to try to damage the roots as little as possible.

Outcome

With proper preparation of the beds and adherence to the planting technology, growing garlic in the open field will bring only pleasure, the plant will be healthy, and the harvest will please with abundance. To store garlic for the winter, dug bulbs are hung or laid out to dry in a dry, shaded place. The roots are cut from completely dry bulbs, and in this form they are laid for storage.

Culture is indispensable on the table for many summer residents. Growing garlic is a simple process, everyone can cope with the task. Attention to detail, the desire and diligence of the summer resident will allow you to get high yield. It takes very little: to choose the right place and variety.

Everyone can grow garlic at home. Most summer residents plant crops in the fall. To do this, you need to correctly calculate the landing time. The vegetable grower calculates the day, taking into account the climate of the region of residence. Therefore, the landing period varies from mid-October to November. The sooner the garlic is in the ground, the larger the heads will be.. Spring garlic is planted in early spring, the garden bed has been prepared since autumn. Shooting hot garlic is planted for the winter, the reason is that it belongs to winter varieties.

How to grow spring garlic

The difference from winter garlic is that spring garlic grows smaller, but is stored longer. Plant it as soon as the snow melts in the spring. Around the middle of April. According to the technology of growing garlic, the bed is prepared in advance. Digging up the site, they introduce organic matter, complex mineral fertilizers and wood ash.

The implementation of agricultural techniques leads to a high yield.

In general, the cultivation of winter and spring varieties of crops does not differ from each other. Only the time of planting and harvesting are different, the care is the same.

Choosing a place for spring garlic

Growing garlic in the country is practiced by many summer residents. Particular attention is paid to the selection of a place. The site is chosen sunny side, preferably with good stock water. Garlic does not like stagnant moisture. The place must be protected from wind and drafts. This will help to avoid further hassle on the construction of protection.

Summer residents practice on the site landscape design with decor, using various varieties garlic. At the same time, they receive not only beautiful decoration but also a useful product.

It is undesirable to plant a crop after:

• tomatoes;
• potatoes;
• Luke;
• carrots.

It is desirable that in the past year at this place grew:

• cabbage;
• cucumbers;
• squash;
• spices;
• cereals.

Compliance with crop rotation will avoid trouble. Plants are less susceptible to disease.

Scheme of planting spring garlic

The crop yield depends on the planting of the cloves. The correct scheme will allow you to grow large heads fragrant seasoning. Condensed growing will cause the bulbs to shred. Large cloves are planted at a distance of 12 cm from each other, smaller ones by 8 cm. The distance between the grooves is 25-30 cm.

Embedding depth 3-4 cm, garlic is not recommended to be pressed. Such actions harm the planting material. This is reflected in the future harvest. The grooves are covered with earth and lightly tamped. Mulch at will, use sawdust or other material.

How to grow winter garlic

Plant the crop in autumn. The site is selected according to the same criteria as for the spring. Prerequisite - abundance sunlight, wind protection and a slight slope. The soil for garlic is selected fertile. With a lack of nutrients, humus, ash and mineral fertilizers are introduced before planting. Sandy soil is better.

In order for the garlic to grow, it is recommended to organize a shelter. Especially in regions with severe winters. To do this, use peat, foliage or plant residues. In the spring, this shelter helps retain moisture longer and prevents weeds from appearing.

Preparing beds for winter garlic

It is not difficult to determine what kind of soil garlic loves. Requires fertile sandy loamy soil. Loams and other soil composition diluted with river sand.

The site is dug up and top dressing is applied, beds are formed, grooves are made. The completion of cultivation is marked by planting cloves in the ground.

Winter Garlic Care

The culture is demanding for watering and top dressing. Timely fertilization and regular water supply are required. Summer residents who are engaged in growing plants look after this crop especially carefully. Untimely implementation of agricultural techniques leads to a decrease in the volume of the crop. It is necessary to follow the rules of cultivation and care.

Garlic care begins in the spring. First of all, remove the large mulch that served as a shelter. Those summer residents who do not have the opportunity to water the crop often recommend leaving fine mulch in the garden. It will help retain precious moisture at the initial stage.

Plants need to be fed immediately after germination, during the formation of bulbs. Use organic and complex mineral fertilizers. Care must be taken to ensure that weeds do not appear. They pull everything from the ground nutrients, resulting in starvation of the cultivated plant.

In the dry period, watered once every 4-5 days, if the spring is rainy, watering is stopped. Thus, the beds are also watered in the summer, 2-3 weeks before the expected harvest date, watering is stopped. When the arrows reach 15 cm in length, they must be broken off, they weaken the plant. The heads will be small, the cloves will be small.

Implementation proper care for plants will definitely return to the summer resident in the form of a rich harvest.

Diseases of culture

Susceptibility to diseases directly depends on the variety and its characteristics. It is desirable to completely eliminate shading; many viruses and bacteria like the shade. Prevention is of great importance. Correct fit, the implementation of agricultural techniques help to avoid the development of diseases.

Garlic suffers from diseases no less than other crops. Need to follow up appearance leaves and stems of plants. If any signs of deformation appear, the plant must be removed, and the remaining ones should be processed immediately. Planting teeth, carried out correctly, can affect the resistance to diseases. Do not ignore crop rotation.

Plants that have been grown in the same place for several years get sick much more often and more severely.

When the leaves turn yellow, this is a sure sign of downy mildew. The disease must be treated, otherwise the infection will pass to healthy plants. The disease can destroy most of the crop in a short time. For prevention, teeth are kept in the sun for several days before planting. This helps to disinfect the planting material.

Used for processing special means purchased at the store. Some summer residents prefer to use folk remedies, the minus of which is only in a short-term effect, and the plus is safe for the human body.

Planting material preparation

The teeth must be reviewed for damage and visible defects. Separate the heads just before planting. Planting material should be large. The larger the clove, the larger the crop will be. Before planting, special events are held that are aimed at strengthening the immunity of plants. After the emergence of seedlings, top dressing is repeated. Then the culture will be stronger and more stable.

Processing methods:

1. Before planting, soak the garlic in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for an hour. This will help to disinfect the planting material.
2. Make a 1% solution of copper sulfate, the teeth are in it for a long time. Approximately 9-11 hours. Summer residents recommend soaking overnight, planting in the beds in the morning.
3. 3 art. tablespoons of salt are diluted in 5 liters of water, soaked for 3 minutes, then for 1 minute. in a solution of copper sulphate. They plant immediately.
4. A solution of wood ash at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 1 liter of water. The solution must be mixed well, to achieve the best result, a fine fraction of ash is taken. Planting material is soaked for 1 hour.
5. The drug "Maxim" of natural origin. It acts as an antibiotic, so treatment with it is harmless to humans. The solution is prepared according to the instructions, the teeth are lowered for 30 minutes. After planted in the beds.
6. Prepare 3 solutions. 24 hours soaked in nitroammofoska for 10 liters of water 1 tbsp. spoon for 30 min. soaked in salt, per liter of water Art. spoon for 1 min. in copper sulfate, proportions 10 liters of water / 1 tbsp. the spoon.

There are many processing methods, each summer resident uses his own method, proven over the years. It doesn't matter if it's a winter or spring variety, everything is processed. Vegetable growers agree on one thing, pre-sowing preparation should not be neglected. It is important for planting material, future plants and crops.

Growing garlic seeds

Every vegetable grower can independently grow garlic at home. To do this, you need to prepare a bed, collect planting material. Nothing special needs to be done. It is necessary to leave a few arrows, after ripening, future planting material will be collected from them. Bulb-grown garlic renews the variety, the heads will be larger, and disease resistance is higher.

The arrow should burst protective film, the seeds will come out. They are carefully cut and put away for storage until demand. If the variety does not shoot, it is impossible to collect seeds from it.

Planting material is kept warm, but 1.5 months before planting it is transferred to a cool place, thus tempering the bulbs. Summer residents use a greenhouse to grow seeds. But there is an opportunity to grow them this way, without creating special conditions. To grow required amount cloves, garlic are fed and watered as usual. The culture itself will grow planting material, the summer resident only needs to collect it correctly.

Growing garlic from bulbs

It is not necessary to plant garlic in a greenhouse, a garden bed in the open field will do. Before digging, humus and mineral fertilizers are applied. They form a bed and make grooves for planting air bulbs of bulbs.

Planted for the winter, in the spring or directly on the place where it will grow for 2 years. The first two methods are known to all summer residents. And the direct way seems complicated. In fact, everything is simple, the bulbs are planted immediately on permanent place, it grows for a long time. Then the summer resident digs out the heads ready for use.

Seeding depth is 5 cm, spring varieties are planted in early spring. Winter crops are planted in the fall, while the bed is mulched and protected from the cold. The distance between the ribbons is 35-45 cm.

Tips for a beginner vegetable grower experienced summer residents, following which he will grow a crop no worse than others:

• In arrowing varieties of culture, the arrows necessarily break off, but not all. The arrow is an excellent indicator of ripeness. At the initial stage, it is twisted, in July it straightens. When it stretches, the garlic is ready.
• If the summer resident grows an arrow for seeds, you should leave it on the largest teeth. Bulbs will be larger.
• Caring for garlic in June consists in timely pilaf and top dressing, which are often combined with each other. After that, the earth is loosened, mute hilling the plants.
• Planting bulbs is practiced at different times. In the spring, digging up a bed will be problematic. Because it is prepared in the fall. Fall-planted cloves sometimes come to the surface or freeze. They must be pressed into the ground in the spring.
• You don’t need to take care of garlic in August, it remains to dig it out correctly. Depending on the variety, the culture ripens in different ways. Dig using a pitchfork, then leave in the sun for 2-5 hours. After they are cleaned in a well-ventilated room, the leaves and stems are not cut. They are tied or woven into pigtails, hung under the roof for final drying and ripening. Then they are removed to the winter storage room.
• To scare away insects, marigolds are planted along the beds. They repel nematodes and onion fly.

Planting garlic in the field is easy. Following the advice of experienced vegetable growers, they get a rich harvest. To update the variety, garlic is planted from bulbs; there is no need to buy planting material.