Distance between rows of potatoes. Traditional and unusual ways of planting potatoes. Growing potatoes the Dutch way

The beginning of May in our area is the traditional time for planting potatoes. So it's time to think about how to plant it this time, because recently new, original methods have been added to the usual methods - there are plenty to choose from.

Traditional ways of planting potatoes

There are three common methods: smooth fit, ridge and into the trenches. Moreover, this is just the case when an arbitrary choice does not top scores, because each of the options is designed for very specific conditions and in others it simply may not justify itself. Only the basic requirements remain common: to arrange plantings in the direction from south to north, so that the plants are illuminated evenly and receive a sufficient amount of light; keep distances. Also, do not forget about fertilization (I usually use ashes and compost); useful to add to holes or trenches onion peel, which protects plantings from the Colorado potato beetle. Between rows of tubers:

for early varieties - 60 cm
for late varieties - 70 cm.

Between tubers in a row:

for early varieties - 25-30 cm
for late varieties - 30-35 cm.

Here it is worth bearing in mind that the distances are indicated for tubers standard seat size- from about egg; I often plant with small tubers - for them, of course, the distance in the row is proportionally reduced; the distance between rows does not depend on the size of planting tubers.

The distance between plants is important to observe. A photo

It is considered optimal planting depth:

on light soils - 10-12 cm
on heavy and loam - 8-10 cm
on the clay soils ah - 4-5 cm.

Again, small tubers should not be planted as deep as large ones (but in any case, deviations of more than 3 cm from the recommended parameters are not recommended).

In this video, Doctor of Biological Sciences, Head of the Department of Potato Genetic Resources of VIR named after V.I. Vavilova Kiru Stepan Dmitrievich talks about how to determine the correct planting dates and how to plant potatoes correctly.

ridge planting

This is a method in which ridges about 15 cm high with a distance of about 70 cm between them are made in the area intended for planting potatoes, and then tubers are planted in them.

This technology will be expedient where they lie close to the surface, the soil suffers from waterlogging. The method will also be useful on heavy soils, which are quickly compacted, preventing air exchange. In practice, combs are sometimes used simply because there is a tractor.

For example, in the village where I had a dacha, everyone plowed plots for potatoes with a tractor. And since the tractor driver had necessary fixtures for hilling, planted in ridges - to minimize manual labor. I refused this idea, even though we have loams: in dry years, moisture leaves such ridges very quickly, and it is required abundant watering. And where I live now, there is sandy soil at all - here even the beds have to be made with sides, because the earth crumbles. Yes, and moisture does not linger in such soil, so another method is more suitable for us.

Planting potatoes in trenches

These are, in fact, the ridges on the contrary: on sandy soils that do not retain moisture well, as well as in arid climates, we do not raise the tubers above ground level, but on the contrary, we deepen them, laying them in trenches laid taking into account all recommended distances.

Naturally, if you use this method in areas with high humidity or very dense soil, there is a risk that our potatoes will simply suffocate or rot in the damp soil.

Smooth fit

If you got a site on the southern slope, where the soil warms up quickly, and the soil is quite loose and moderately moisture-intensive, you can plant it using the “under a shovel” method. This is best done with two people. Rows of future plantings are outlined, then one of the participants in the process, moving along the intended line, makes small holes (someone simply lifts a layer of earth to lay a tuber under it, someone prefers the holes - then the soil from the next "landing point" is covered previous). The second one follows and lays out the tubers.

We once used this method when planting potatoes in the first year on newly plowed virgin soil. The tractor left behind huge layers of earth - it would not have been possible to depict any ridges or trenches there in any case. Somehow they broke large clods with a hoe and put tubers under the shovel - just as they are, as it turns out. By autumn, the site had changed - thanks to loosening, hilling, there were noticeably fewer weeds, and large clods almost gone. The method paid off, I used it in the future.

Unusual ways of planting potatoes

I think that I will not list all the options in any case - the ingenuity of our summer residents knows no bounds. Usually, new method invented to solve a specific problem (task). For example, they got a plot overgrown with grass, but they don’t have the strength to raise virgin soil. Or there is not enough space, but you want to grow potatoes. Then, if the idea justified itself, you can develop it.

And planting material and botanical potato seeds for growing your own seed tubers can be selected in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. .

Perhaps you know other ways to plant potatoes? Or have you experienced one of the new methods in practice? Tell us in the comments - how do you plant potatoes, are you planning any experiment this season?

Potatoes are adored by Russian housewives. From it you can cook a lot of side dishes, meatballs, salads. Fans of carving - carving vegetables - create bizarre figures from it: apples, mushrooms, barrels and much more.

The history of the appearance of potatoes in Russia

Potatoes have been cultivated in the fields for over 5,000 years. It was known to ancient people who found it while digging edible roots. In Russia, he appeared thanks to Tsar Peter I, who ordered to grow potatoes in all peasant farmsteads. But this decree was marked by popular unrest and resistance to the new vegetable.

Commoners did not immediately understand that they needed tubers, so they ate only green ovaries. They were poisonous and people often died afterwards. The Old Believers generally called the overseas vegetable the devil's apple and refused to eat it even under pain of death. Potato riots followed. Only in the second half of the 19th century, the vegetable was rehabilitated. Over time, the potato fell in love with all the people and replaced the widely used turnip from the tables. Now a hearty vegetable is consumed in 130 countries around the world.

What soils are suitable for planting potatoes

Potatoes are grown in all Russian regions. It is unpretentious to soils and can grow almost everywhere, giving somewhere more, and somewhere less yield. Soils are considered unsuitable for growing potatoes: sandy, clay, terrain near swamps, excessively saline areas. The most favorable are chernozems, loose lands with large quantity nutrients.

Best Potato Neighbors

To get an excellent harvest, you need to know what you can and cannot combine potatoes with in the same garden. Knowing these rules will help rid the beds of pests and get healthy large tubers.

What to plant potatoes with? The best neighbors for him will be beans, spinach, kohlrabi or cauliflower, beans, radishes and lettuce of different varieties. Plants that rid potatoes of pests are also favorable: catnip, marigolds, nasturtium, tansy and coriander. To prevent the appearance of phytophthora nearby, it is recommended to sow garlic. You can not plant celery, sunflower and quinoa nearby. On the next year beans, horseradish, radishes, spinach, radishes, onions, garlic, cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkins, peas and zucchini will grow well in this place. After potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries, strawberries, eggplants, peppers and physalis do not sit down.

We choose high-quality seed material for planting potatoes

It is better to prepare planting material yourself, because this will help save a lot of money. To do this, a couple of weeks before harvesting potatoes for seeds, mow the tops of it. Such tubers have a higher resistance to diseases and are better stored. Opt for bushes, after digging up which you will find more than 8 potatoes. If there are fewer of them, then the plant is already unsuitable for reproduction due to natural causes. It is recommended to store seed material separately at a temperature of +4 degrees Celsius.

If you don’t have your own potatoes for planting, then it’s better to buy it in a store, and not from grandmothers in the market. Choose tubers the size of a medium hen's egg. Planting material should be smooth, beautiful, without the slightest sign of illness. If possible, give preference to potatoes grown from seeds. He is not infected with viruses and is completely healthy.

Planting depth of seed potatoes

What is the best planting depth for potatoes? Much depends on the terrain, soil type and climate. The depth of planting potatoes in central Russia is 8-12 cm. It is very important not to violate this distance, the yield of the bush depends on it. AT southern regions the depth of planting potatoes is 15-16 cm. It is necessary to bury the tubers so much because of the hot climate and hot earth. In the northern regions, the depth of planting potatoes, depending on the area, is 6-12 cm. This is due to the cold climate and the late onset of summer.

The depth and distance of planting potatoes depends primarily on the area of cultivation and the type of land. On the fertile soils more crowded placement is allowed, while on poor lands it is better to make more indents. The average width between rows is 50-60 cm, and the distance between bushes is from 35 cm.

How to plant a crop

Inexperienced gardeners are not always aware of how to plant potatoes correctly. You need to start with preparing the land and do it better in the fall. The soil is dug up and fed with a mixture of manure and ash. In the spring, the earth is loosened at a depth of up to 5 cm. The tubers are also prepared for planting: a month before they are placed in a warm and dry place for germination.

It is desirable to plant potatoes when the first leaves are cut on the birch trees. Usually this time falls on the end of April and the beginning of May. It all depends on the area. The air at this point warms up to 10-20 degrees Celsius. The depth of planting potatoes is on average from 6 to 16 cm. It is recommended to choose a sunny and warm day.

The scheme of planting potatoes is presented in the article. The most common method of sowing is popularly called "under a shovel". This is how they did it in the old days and today. The gardener should take a shovel and dig holes about 30-40 cm apart. With frequent planting, potatoes will be difficult to spud, and the yield will be minimal. Fertilizer, seed material is placed at the bottom of the hole, and it is covered with earth from the next row. The method is very simple and does not require a large number time.

This scheme for planting potatoes will be clear even to a novice gardener. Sowing the crop "in the comb" allows you to get a crop earlier than with the traditional method. The ridges are created using a tractor or cultivator, and then a person digs a strip into them with a chopper. Potatoes are laid in the created furrow, and then covered with earth. The comb warms up perfectly in the sun and is not flooded with water, which is especially important in rainy years.

Growing potatoes the Dutch way

In recent years, the Dutch technology of growing potatoes has become very popular. It allows you to get the maximum yield from minimal cost. The Dutch recommend using varieties: Mona Lisa, Red Scarlett, Sante and others. It is also advisable to change fields for planting and not use the same place 2 years in a row.

14 days after placing the potatoes in the ground, the first weeding work should be carried out. After that, the plants are spudded, and then high ridges are formed. The use of herbicides with the Dutch technology is mandatory. During the growth of the bush, such treatments are carried out at least 5 times.

Watering will also take place according to the schedule: the first time - before flowering, the second - after it, and the third - in another 20 days. Used for cutting bushes special equipment or secateurs. After a couple of days, the farmer starts digging up potatoes, usually towards the end of August.

Traditional cultivation technology

Potato growing technology traditional method known to every gardener. It involves 2-4 hilling per season and several weeds. Potatoes are planted with a width between rows of about 70 cm. Organic fertilizers are applied. In dry weather, watering is carried out. It is mandatory to collect Colorado beetles and their larvae manually, since herbicide treatment during traditional system potato cultivation does not apply.

By August, the tops begin to dry out, but it is not necessary to mow it. Digging up the harvest most often occurs in September. By this time, the tops have already dried up, and the skin of the tubers has become denser. They dig in dry weather and leave the potatoes to dry under the sun for several hours. Then it is removed for storage in the cellar.

Alternative Potato Planting Methods

How to plant potatoes so that you get excellent harvest? Farmers come up with new methods every year. The method of planting under straw is very simple and accessible even to weak people. Potatoes are placed in the ground by pressing to a depth of 1-2 cm. From above, it is covered with straw. You don’t need to spud it, weed it too, just water it during periods of drought and that’s it.

Potatoes are also planted in hay. This method is not as simple as the previous one. Furrows are dug in the autumn, and hay is folded in them. During the winter and spring, it matures. In May, potatoes are planted in hay, which feel great in fertilized loose soil.

An interesting method of covering the field with black cloth. Initially, the bed is dug up, fertilized and irrigated with water. Then a black fabric with slots is laid over the entire surface, into which the tubers are planted. There are hundreds of methods to get big harvest potatoes, and the gardener simply has to choose the one that is most suitable for his area and the type of soil in the garden.

Every year, millions of people go out to their plots in the early days of May to plant potatoes. Despite the huge crops in agricultural firms throughout the country, this crop is produced by 30 ... 35% in private farmsteads.

The population has accumulated experience that comes from their ancestors. Having your own potatoes is a guarantee that there will always be food in the house.

Every business starts with preparatory work. It is necessary to have a prepared area where potatoes are supposed to be planted in the future.

Until now, you can meet people with shovels, they systematically drive the bayonet of their gun into the ground and make a turn of the seam. The soil to a depth of 25 ... 28 cm turns around. The top layers go down, and the bottom ones rise up.

If the operation is performed on chernozem with a soil layer depth of more than 50 cm, then such work can only be welcomed. The entire dug layer is saturated with atmospheric oxygen, and aerobic processes begin in it. Microorganisms are activated. seeds weeds move down from the top layer.

When digging on poor soils, where the soil depth is less than 10 cm, there is no benefit. Rather earth harm is done. The entire fertile layer is below the soil, in which there is no microorganism.

Planted plants will grow rather slowly, trying to take nutrients from the nutrient layer buried in the soil.

The advent of the cultivator known as the "miracle shovel" has revolutionized soil preparation. The active forks of this device are deepened by 25 ... 30 cm, where they perform powerful loosening without bringing the lower layers to the surface.

If there are roots of weeds, they rise to the top. It remains only to remove the rhizomes of perennial weeds.

Passive "wonder spade" forks help to break up large clods. After the passage with such a tool, loosened soil prepared for planting remains on the field. The structure of the soil is not disturbed. Aerobic processes are activated. Microorganisms warm up faster spring sun, the soil will better feed the plants planted in it.

If, before such digging, the owner of the site took care of adding lime (for acidic soils) or dolomite flour with gypsum (for neutral soils), as well as organic or mineral fertilizers you can expect a good harvest.

Attention! The introduction of organic fertilizers increases the acidity of the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to apply at least 1 kg of hydrated lime every two years for each hundred square meters. When making nitroammophoska (1.0 ... 1.5 kg per hundred square meters), annual top dressing with slaked lime is necessary.

A modern gardener in search of mechanization uses auxiliary equipment: walk-behind tractors, microtractors. What is the best way to prepare soil for potatoes?

Most potato growers are starting to use soil cutters. Loosening is quite fast, the working depth is about 25 cm. The soil is crushed quite easily.

You can rejoice, but with such processing, all the rhizomes of perennial weeds are scattered throughout the territory. Then you have to wage a long and stubborn war. The use of plows that rotate the seam is more expedient. But working with a plow is more difficult.

What planting pattern should be chosen when planting potatoes

To the question: “At what distance is it advisable to plant potatoes”? - The answer is: “We need a differentiated approach depending on the available soils.” Distance between rows and bushes:

for rich soils, you can use a narrow row spacing, 60 cm wide. Plants will be planted at a distance of 30 ... 35 cm in a row;
for poor soils, a large area of food for grown plants is needed. They recommend a row spacing of 70 or even 80 cm. It is desirable to place planting material 35 cm or more in a row.

How to mark up before planting potatoes

Potato growers are preparing a whole set of devices for marking future beds. Markers are used, similar to those that appeared at the dawn of potato growing. The rake-like device only uses tines spaced the width of the rows.

When working with such a tool, you need to withstand a straight-line movement. Therefore, the first pass of the scriber is carried out with special care. All subsequent passes are made along the existing grooves. The marker is installed in the finished groove and new rows are drawn. They will then be landing.

Some gardeners try to take a comprehensive approach to the issue. They make a device for cutting planting furrows. It has to be carried across the field, digging furrows at a given width of their cutting. Along the way, the planting depth is set (10 ... 12 cm).

The work is pretty hard. You have to pull small plows that create grooves for planting potatoes. However, in what follows, the remaining process will be solved simply:

It is necessary to spread the seed in the grooves with a predetermined distance.
Using a rake or chopper, sprinkle the spread out potatoes.

This completes the landing process.

Devices for forming holes in rows

To mark distances and create in the row itself, vegetable growers offer a whole range of devices. The simplest can be done simultaneously in two holes, the third cone descends into the previous hole.

The device works quite efficiently. Everyone who has adopted such a device notes that the quality of work is high. All holes have an exact depth of 10..12 cm.

The length of the cone itself is 15 cm. The potatoes do not sink to the very bottom. Many potato growers pour a little before laying the tuber to deal with wireworm. wood ash. A natural potash fertilizer is introduced into the soil, along the way, acidity decreases in the area where the planted material is located.

A universal marker with adjustable parameters was recommended for gardeners in the media. According to these schemes, some enterprises produced industrial designs. It is not difficult to use them, but it is hard to carry 12 ... 15 kg across the field. Few use such a device.

However, today such devices can be made not from steel pipes while using plastic piping. Weight will drop to 3…4 kg.

Some potato growers complain that it is difficult for them to maintain the straightness of the rows. You have to go, leaving a markup behind you. Rarely, who can move directly across the field. Marking with a lace will help here.

A cord is tied to the pegs.
Hammer the first peg at the beginning of the row.
They go to the end and hammer the second peg at the end.
Tighten the lace to a taut state (wind it on the second peg).

Some simple movements, and a straight line is obtained. It is easy to navigate when marking.

Even in a long potato field, it will not be difficult to maintain a straight line when marking.

How to plant potatoes

The most crucial moment is landing. It is important how deep the potatoes are planted. Most recommend deepening the tuber by 10 ... 12 cm. The simplest and most effective device is the “hoof”.

Landing with a "hoof"

The cords are pulled along which the landing will be made. Planting tubers are laid out at the right distance. It remains only to walk and press them into the soil.

Some are afraid that the "hoof" will crush the potato. If the soil is well dug up, then you should not worry. Depth is regulated by a cross bar. It is nailed at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the hoof. Three to five potatoes are brought into the soil per minute. Landing is quite fast.

Attention! Inside such a device there is a small recess (about 2 cm), it allows you to distribute the load on the root crop when pressed.

Using a potato planter

Many craftsmen make potato planters. This device has movable cheeks, they can be moved apart by the handles.

The cheeks close and they are pressed with a foot.
Under the influence of the weight of a person, a deepening of 10 ... 12 cm occurs.
Seed material is thrown into the existing hole.
Then the handles move apart, the potato reaches the bottom.
The potato planter pulls out.
The existing holes are covered with a rake or chopper.

Landing is carried out at high speed. It is inconvenient just to carry a bag of seeds over your shoulders.

Landing by digging channels

Another interesting way and the device to it is landing in prepared trenches. Using a small plow mounted on wheels, furrows can be made in a short time. Then it remains to spread the planting tubers in them. The work is completed by sprinkling the soil with a rake.

With the help of such a device, two people sow a hundred square meters of potatoes in 40 ... 50 minutes.

mechanized landing

Motoblocks firmly took their place on household plots, they are used in summer cottages and in garden associations. Farmers in large fields use mechanized methods landing.

For walk-behind tractors, several types of potato planters are produced. They help to sow quickly and efficiently different varieties of potatoes. Adjustments help to achieve stable seeding. It remains only to choose convenient mode work according to one's own strength.

The least time-consuming landing is with the help of a walk-behind tractor and attachments.

To obtain the maximum yield of potatoes, it is important to follow agrotechnical rules. But first you need to clarify the purpose of growing a root crop - to get summer harvest or prepare it for the winter.

Based on this, it is important to know which seed material must be chosen to solve the task, as well as to know by what method to plant, at what distance to plant potatoes of one or another variety.

There are many options for planting potatoes. The most common are:

under the shovel;
in combs;
into the trench;
the Mitlider method;
double beds.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's try to understand the tricks of each method. To obtain a good harvest of this nightshade crop, it is important when planting it to take into account the distance both between the tubers and between the rows.

Planting potatoes is carried out on different surfaces: flat or on ridges in the presence of heavy or too wet soil.

The best result is observed when planting in areas with a flat surface, where the distance between rows is recommended to be kept at 70 cm, and between the bushes in a row - about 30 cm.

Sometimes summer residents, in pursuit of a large harvest, having small plot, potatoes are planted too densely. These wrong actions have the opposite effect. Excessive planting causes weakening of the bushes, reducing yields. To avoid such a problem, it is important to familiarize yourself with the specifics of growing potatoes in one way or another.

With the ridge variant of the formation of beds, it is required to place full-fledged two rows in one bed. With this technique, the distance between rows is kept within 19–26 cm. Subsequent rows should be separated by a ditch one shovel wide. Moreover, the walls of this earthen structure need to be sloping.

If the Mitlider method is used, then its author focuses on the following points:

The distance between the rows is about 1 m. When the culture does not have a sprawling shape, this figure can drop to 90 cm.
The width of the strips varies between 30–45 cm. The holes of each row are arranged in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between them must be kept at 30 cm.
The final result of the work depends not only on the observance of the distance, but also on the choice of variety. Beds formed according to Mitlider are best used for zoned potato varieties. However, the material of medium and late deadline maturation.

The best distance between a pair of adjacent strips is determined by its grade:

late varieties planted at a distance of 70–90 cm;
early ripe culture is located with a distance of 60–75 cm.

This technology is connected with the fact that the late varietal product is characterized by thick tops, which is not observed in early crops. Some summer residents recommend simultaneous planting of both varieties. This will allow you to get high yield provided that the potato planting scheme is correctly observed, with maintained distances between the tubers.

Spacing between tubers

This factor also affects the final result. There is a statement that up to 6 bushes must be planted per square meter of soil. But if we take such rules as a baseline, it turns out that with a row spacing of 70 cm, it is required to observe an inter-bush distance of 26 cm.

In order not to resort to the use of a ruler, it is customary to consider such a segment as one and a half width of a garden shovel. It is also necessary to focus on the diameter of the already dug hole, which is approximately 25–27 cm.

But when using this technology, the potatoes will grow very densely, which is not very profitable in terms of harvesting. In practice, such a landing scheme is rarely resorted to.

A common method of planting a nightshade crop is one where the distance between the tubers is twice the distance. Sometimes summer residents even increase this distance between tubers to 1 m with the proximity of rows - 70 cm. Although this method provides a minimum yield.

It should be noted that in order to obtain an acceptable yield, it is necessary not only to maintain the recommended distance between the landing strips, but also to take into account the potato variety:

early cultures are recommended to be planted at a distance of 25 to 30 cm among themselves;
late-ripening varieties - from 30 to 35 cm.

These values are for standard dimensions tubers (the size of a chicken egg). When small tubers are planted, the given distances need to be reduced. In such a situation, it is optimal to maintain a distance of 18–20 cm. With large tubers, it should increase. A distance of up to 45 cm is recommended.

Landing patterns

The choice of method of planting potatoes is very diverse. Each gardener can choose for himself the best and not expensive option.

Under a shovel

A simple and popular way of planting in rows is the “under the shovel” technique:

dig up the earth, fertilize;
make markings for the future beds with the help of pegs;
make holes with a shovel, keeping a distance of 30 cm between them;
for such an event, it is desirable to use a marker;
strictly adhere to the distance between the planting product according to its belonging to a particular variety (for early potatoes 25 cm, for a late ripening root crop - 30–35 cm);
to determine the grade planting material(if there is no information about it), you can count the number of shoots on the tubers and when there are a lot of them, make more distance between the pits;
pour 0.5 l of water into a hole with potatoes;
sprinkle the planted material on top with earth;
mark the place of another bed, maintaining a distance between rows of 60–70 cm.

It is important to take into account these standards in the future when hilling potatoes, since they will play a significant role in obtaining decent harvest. Perform this procedure (hilling the bushes) should be under the very tops. This will keep the soil hydrated. If the distance between the ridges is too narrow, then the roots of the plant will be damaged during processing and hilling.

In combs

The correct planting of nightshade culture in the ridges is best technology cultivation in regions with heavy rainfall. This technique ensures that the tubers are located above the soil level, which does not allow rainwater to linger between the rows.

It is noted that even in clay soil potatoes planted in this way will not die.

The algorithm for disembarking the material is as follows:

make ridges with a plow or cultivator;
keep the distance, as indicated, under the shovel;
the height of the ridges is up to 15 cm;
plant tubers at the top of the bed, maintaining a distance of 30 cm between them;
landing hole depth - 5–6 cm;
cover potatoes with soil.

Into the trenches

In dry regions, it is better to plant potatoes in trenches.

But, before, since the fall, it is required to perform the following agrotechnical measures:

dig a trench, the depth of which is 20–30 cm;
put any natural organic matter at the bottom (hay, straw, manure, leaves);
the distance between the strips of the trench is 70 cm;
in the spring, after the biomaterial rots and shrinks, the depth of the trench will be about 5 cm;
spread the planting product among themselves at a distance of 30 cm;
cover everything with soil.

The advantage of this agrotechnical process is the absence of the need for additional fertilization of the root crop. Potatoes get everything they need from a rotten mixture of organic matter. Humus contributes not only to the nutrition of the bush, but also warms the tubers, which allows you to get fast shoots and the best harvest.

The disadvantages of trench growing potatoes include the fact that with heavy rainfall, the tubers quickly rot. In the presence of such a danger, it is necessary to make grooves with a depth of 10–15 cm along the edges of the beds. This action will prevent stagnation of water in the soil.

Growing in trenches can also be used in light sandy soil. Typically, this technology is used in the southern regions. The furrows are made 15 cm deep. This will prevent the tubers from drying out and overheating.

It is important not to miss the moment and in the fall to lay the bottom of the pit with plant residues: straw, rotted manure, in order to achieve a good harvest next year. By the way, the American (deep) planting method is suitable for light soil.

It provides for the following actions:

prepare germinated tubers;
lay them in fertilized furrows (trenches), the depth of which is 22 cm;
the distance between the planting material is also 22 cm.

When using the American agrotechnical method, the nightshade culture begins to form an elongated etiolated stem, from the stolon of which the vegetable ovary occurs. Other processes also occur on the green mass - leaves are formed from stolons. For heavy soil, this landing option is not suitable.

double beds

There is an equally interesting method of planting potatoes. People have been using this technique for a long time.

The landing algorithm is as follows:

use pegs to mark double beds;
remove weeds;
level the surface;
the distance between subsequent structures is about 110 cm;
the distance in the beds between the rows is 40 cm;
along this entire length (40 cm), rotted organics are introduced;
tubers are planted in pits in a checkerboard pattern, a distance of 30 cm is left between the holes;
after the vegetable sprouts, carry out hilling;
in order to protect the bushes from adverse factors, to retain moisture and heat, the soil is mulched from above by about 5–10 cm with compost, straw or hay;
A layer of mulch will also help keep weeds out.

The advantages of this technology for planting potatoes include:

roots get more space;
the tops are provided with more light;
the technology can be applied on all types of soils;
saving space for landing;
there is no need to loosen the soil, hill up potatoes, which significantly saves time.

According to the Mittlider method

Hole chart according to Mitlider

The agrotechnical development of Mittlider is quite effective. For this reason, more and more gardeners resort to it every year. Potatoes planted according to the proposed scheme develop very well and provide record harvest from the plantation.

The area should be divided into beds, the width of which is 45 cm. Plant the tubers in 2 rows, observing a checkerboard pattern. Dig holes from each other at a distance of 30 cm. On the side of the beds, make sides no higher than 10 cm.

In the center of each surface, make a groove used in the future for fertilizer. You can use both synthetic or mineral fertilizers, and organic.

Top dressing should be carried out throughout the entire period of growing the crop. The first time when sprouts appear, then when they have reached a height of 15 cm in height, and also at the time the buds appear. Row spacing should be kept at 75–110 cm.

The advantages of the technology include:

high yield;
looseness of the beds;
minimum weed growth.

The disadvantages of such agricultural technology include the complexity initial stages Forming beds is a lot of effort when creating surfaces for growing this crop.

Conclusion

When choosing any of the above methods of growing potatoes, the following requirements for the plant should be taken into account:

the required amount of nutrients in the soil;
duration sunlight;
proper watering.

This will help you get excellent harvest. But do not forget that the acidity of the soil also affects the final result. This nightshade culture prefers soil with an acidity in the pH range of 5.1-6.

At home, determining this property of the earth is quite simple:

if oxal crops grow in the garden (plantain, horsetail, buttercup) - the soil has an acidic reaction;
chamomile, sow thistle, wheatgrass predominate - a neutral reaction.

To obtain the necessary acidity, you need to familiarize yourself with the methods of its normalization.

11 months ago

Planting potatoes? Distance between tubers (bushes) and between rows?

11 months ago

We follow the following rule in the country: the rows are located at a distance of seventy to eighty centimeters (usually seventy) from each other, the distance between the tubers in a row when planted under a plow is about forty to forty-five centimeters. When planting under a shovel, pits are dug to the width of the shovel, the distance between the pits is back to back (the distance between the tubers is approximately the same: 40-45 cm).

The distance between the rows of potatoes and individual tubers depends on the method of planting this beloved crop. For example, with such an unconventional method of planting as a "slide", the distance between the tubers is only 20-25 centimeters.

When planting in the "barrel" method, the distance between the tubers is at least half a meter, and between the rows - up to one meter. The photo shows a method of growing potatoes in straw. The distance between the tubers is 30-50 centimeters, and between the rows - up to seventy centimeters. traditional way growing potatoes, in which the distance between the tubers is up to seventy centimeters, and between the rows - at least a meter, so that the bushes can be well hilled. And one more thing: early potatoes are planted more often than mid-season and late varieties.

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Potatoes, proper planting of tubers, care after planting

When is the right time to plant potatoes?

Tubers are planted when soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm will reach 7-8 degrees. Usually in the Moscow region it happens in early May. Delay in planting potatoes results in a 30% yield loss.

well germinated tubers to get early potatoes, you can plant a little earlier - at a soil temperature of 5-6 degrees. Experience shows that such early boarding in insufficiently warmed soil gives bigger harvest than a late one in a warm one.

Potatoes are planted on the flat surface, and on waterlogged and heavy soils - in ridges. With such a landing, the earth warms up better and more air enters the tubers.

Distance between rows of potatoes when planting

Before boarding in order to evenly place the plants on the area, the site should be marked out. To do this, with the help of a marker, shallow grooves are made, along which they land. For the first pass of the marker, a cord is pulled along which its extreme prong is led.

You can plant tubers directly under the cord, but this is less convenient, and more time is required. To increase yield after planting, the soil can be mulch(sprinkle with a layer of peat 2-3 cm).

The optimal distance between the rows of potatoes for early-ripening varieties is 70-75 cm, for late-ripening varieties - 80-90 cm. Planting density depends on the size of potato tubers. Small ones are planted after 18-20 cm, medium and large ones after 26-28 cm.

Tubers are planted on heavy soils to a depth 6-8 cm, on the lungs - 8-10 cm, counting the distance from the soil surface to the tuber. With such a planting per hundred square meters, approximately 350 large tubers, 450 medium, 500 and smaller tubers will be required.

Caring for potatoes after planting

potato care mainly comes down to keeping the soil loose and killing weeds.

Harrowing potatoes. The first harrowing is carried out 4-5 days after planting. Then two or three more before germination and one or two after the plants appear on the surface.

Usually from planting to shoots takes 16-28 days. Loosening and hilling potatoes. After the rows are well marked and the plants have sprouted so that it is impossible to harrow, they begin to loosen the row spacing.

The first time the soil is loosened deeply - by 12-14 cm, and the second and third are shallower - by 6-8 cm. When the plants reach a height of 12-15 cm, the first hilling is carried out, with a crest height of 15-20 cm. closure of tops. Feeding potatoes after planting.

Before loosening the row spacing and hilling the plants, it is advisable to feed. This is especially important for mid-season and late potato varieties. It is enough to spend two top dressing.

First time you can pour two handfuls of humus under each bush with the addition of two teaspoons of ammonium nitrate to it, or add two handfuls of ash mixed with the same amount of earth, or add 15 g chicken manure. For the second feeding in 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska.

With this solution, the plants are watered under the root, and then watered with clean water. Keep in mind that top dressing is given only during the initial development of plants. After flowering, they lead to late ripening of tubers and the accumulation of nitrates in them.

With a lack of moisture potatoes are watered along the furrows or by sprinkling. Drought 2-3 weeks after germination, during bud emergence and early August when tubers are growing, can significantly reduce yields.

After watering, the soil must be loosened so that a crust does not form. Advice. In order not to damage the potatoes, keep in mind that in hot and dry weather, you can not deep loosen around the bushes or hill the plants.

This leads to dehydration and overheating of the soil, stops the growth of tubers and contributes to the appearance of diseases. In drought, shallow loosening of row spacings is sufficient.

Distance between rows

To obtain good harvest potatoes, when planting it, the distance between the rows, as well as the distance between the tubers, should be taken into account. It is necessary to start planting potatoes only when the soil temperature reaches up to 8 degrees at a depth of 10 cm.

Often these conditions occur in May (with a dry and warm spring, planting can be done already at the beginning of this month). You should know that well-sprouted tubers can be planted a little earlier - at a temperature of 5 or 6 degrees in the soil. Some gardeners claim that such a planting, on the contrary, helps to get more high level harvest.Usually planting potatoes is carried out on a flat surface.

But with heavy or waterlogged soils - on the ridges (beds). This allows the soil to warm up better, and also improves its aeration. You need to start planting by determining the distance between the rows. To do this, do the following:

mark the entire area; marking is done with a marker (in this case, this means a shovel, stick, etc.). They draw a shallow furrow. Further planting is carried out along these furrows; along the first furrow, a cord is pulled between the wedges, which will act as a guide; the tuber can be planted directly under the stretched cord. But this is very laborious process, which will take a long time; after planting the potatoes in a row, to increase the yield, the soil should be mulched. Mulching is carried out with peat, which is poured in a layer of two to three centimeters.

If a ridge planting option is used (beds are formed), then two rows are placed in one bed. In such a situation, the rows are placed at a distance of 19-26 cm. Each subsequent two rows are separated by a groove having a width of one shovel. The walls of this groove should be sloping. The best distance between two adjacent rows for potatoes is determined by its variety:

early-maturing varieties should be grown at a distance of 60-75 cm; late-ripening varieties should be planted in a row, the distance between which should be no more than 90 cm (minimum 70 cm).

Planting potatoes in a row is usually carried out according to the 30x80 cm pattern. Here, an adjustment should be made for the plant variety. Early potatoes form less dense haulm, so they can be planted more densely with smaller row spacings.

Some gardeners claim that the simultaneous planting of early and late varieties will give a better harvest.

Rows should be oriented from north to south. This will give the bushes more sunlight. Although in this situation it is possible to be guided by the capabilities of your site or garden and determine the distance by eye.

Spacing between tubers

If we dealt with the distance between the rows in the previous paragraph, then the question of optimal distance remains open between the tubers. Most often in the literature one can find the statement that about 6 bushes should be planted per square meter. If we take just such a number of plants, then in the case of a row spacing of about 70 cm, it is necessary to observe a distance between bushes of 26 cm.

In practice, in order not to run with a ruler, this distance practically corresponds to a segment of one and a half widths of a conventional shovel. You should be guided by the diameter of the hole dug with such a shovel (it is approximately 25-27 cm). But when using such a planting scheme, the potatoes will grow quite densely.

This option is not very profitable in terms of plantation yield. In practice, such a scheme is used quite rarely. More often you can find a landing where the gaps between the bushes will be twice as large.

You can also find the following method for calculating the correct distance between the bushes. Here, the total weight of the potato must be divided by the entire area on which you plan to plant it. In this case, the figures obtained will be a real reflection of the yield.

You can even find data when the distance between the holes is one meter (for row proximity of 70 cm). But this method gives the smallest yield. It should be noted that, as in the situation with the distance between the rows, it is necessary to take into account the plant variety:

early varieties it is best to plant at a distance between bushes from 25 to 30 cm; late varieties need to be planted at a greater distance - from 30 to 35 cm.

These figures are for tubers that have a standard size for planting (with a chicken egg). When using smaller tubers, the above distances must be reduced. The optimal distance will be about 18-20 cm.

For very large tubers, the distance can increase significantly and even be 45 cm. The distance that is observed for the rows special significance when choosing the distance between the bushes does not carry. This parameter is directly dependent on the characteristics of the soil composition.

If the soil is fertile, there are a lot of nutrients in it, then the planting should be carried out more densely, since the possibilities of the soil will allow the bushes to form normally and give an excellent harvest in terms of taste and volume. With low soil fertility, gardeners recommend planting tubers at a greater distance from each other so that in the future the bushes have enough opportunities to form a crop. A common potato planting pattern Tubers are planted in holes.

The correct depth for them is from 7 to 10 cm. At this depth, the potatoes warm up best and germinate quickly. Sprouted stalks should be covered with earth on top.

This procedure will need to be repeated in a week. This will allow the formation of strong stems, which will positively affect the yield.

If the planting dates were later, then the depth of the hole increases by 3 cm (especially this rule applies to dry periods). Also, the depth of the hole depends on the type of soil. For heavy soil, this parameter should be about 8 cm.

In light soils, the depth of the hole should be about 10 cm. And for clay soils, the hole is made with a depth of 5 cm. When choosing a depth, you should not clearly focus on the above figures, since you need to make an assessment of the size of the tubers themselves.

Smaller potatoes need to be planted at a shallow depth, but for large ones, the depth should be greater. It is allowed to deviate from the established figures by no more than 3 cm in any direction. It is recommended to plant tubers in the holes with sprouts down.

This must be done in order to form a better spreading, which will contribute to greater ventilation and illumination of the resulting bush. After this procedure has been completed, and all the rules have been followed, with the help of a rake, you should cover the potatoes with earth from above. As you can see, such a seemingly ordinary process as planting potatoes can be a certain degree of complexity.

Incorrectly planted tubers can significantly reduce the yield of an entire plantation. Therefore, before proceeding with the process itself, you should first familiarize yourself with the nuances that relate to this issue.

Video "How to plant potatoes"

In the video, the agronomist tells how to plant potatoes correctly: when to plant, which planting scheme to choose depending on the type of soil; different landing schemes are considered.

To planting potatoes it is necessary to start when the soil at a depth of 10-12 cm warms up to 6-8 degrees. It is not necessary to be late with planting, as this can lead to a decrease in yield, but very early planting of potatoes in cold and unheated soil is also undesirable, since potato tubers, especially in clayey moist soil, can partially rot.

The blooming of birch leaves, the flowering of bird cherry are a sign of the onset of the start of planting potatoes. First, early varieties should be planted, then mid-season and finally late varieties. In the regions of the extreme south, potatoes are planted in late March - early April; in the southern, but more northern regions (Kyiv, Poltava, Kharkov and other regions) - in mid-April; in the central regions (Moscow, Tula, Ryazan and others) - in the first half of May; in the northern regions - in the second half of May.

Potato Planting Depth depends on the soil, humidity, quality of planting material. In the northern and central regions, on light soils, potatoes are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm, on heavy soils 8-10 cm, on peaty soils 6-7 cm.

In the southern and southeastern regions, potatoes are planted at a depth of 14-16 cm. The tops are planted 2-3 cm shallower than whole tubers.

Potato planting density depends on a number of conditions: on well-fertilized or fertile soils, potato tubers are planted thicker, on poorly fertilized, poor soils - less often; early varieties should be planted thicker than late ones, large tubers are planted less often, and smaller ones and tops more often. At 100 square meters 450-500 bushes should be placed when planting whole tubers, about 600-650 bushes when planting with tops, about 700-750 potato bushes when planting seedlings or sprouts. The distance between rows of potatoes should be set 50-60 cm, and in a row between individual bushes when planted with whole tubers - 30-35 cm, tops - 25 cm, sprouts - 20 cm. Medium-sized tubers 20-25 kg, large - 30-35 kg, tops - 10-15 kg are planted per 100 square meters. Depending from ways to plant potatoes, the surface of the area planted with potatoes can be flat or ridged.

In the southern and southeastern regions, in conditions of insufficient moisture, and in the central regions on light soils and in dry years, potatoes are planted in a “smooth” way, which better retains moisture in the soil. In the central and northern regions, especially on heavy and moist soils, potatoes are planted in a “ridged” way, in which the soil warms up better and air penetrates into it more easily. rows are marked on the site, which can be done with a manual marker or along a stretched cord.

When marking, it is necessary to observe the straightness of the rows. A smooth landing is made under a shovel or under a plow. smooth planting potatoes manually under the shovel along the line marked with a marker or along the cord, they dig holes in which the tubers are placed and covered with a loose layer of earth (at the same time, fertilizer can be added to the hole).

laser potato

When planted under a plow, the tuber is placed in the slope of the furrow, which is covered with earth during the reverse passage of the plow. Ridged planting of potatoes produced in a different way: the tubers are laid out on the surface of the cultivated soil (along the line drawn along the cord or marker) and covered with earth with a shovel or using a hiller.

Land for backfilling tubers is taken between rows. When potato nesting two tubers or two halves are planted in the hole: each half or each tuber in the nest is placed at a distance of 8-10 cm from one another. When planting in a nested way, the number of stems in the bush increases.

When planting in halves, more eyes sprout (the incision stimulates the germination of eyes). Nest planting helps to increase the yield.

About planting potatoes and row spacing.

To each potato plant(not only potatoes) it is necessary to create conditions for the optimal healthy development of both the stems and the root system, and this implies sufficient soil fertility and some kind of tuber placement when planting. Landing pattern potatoes in our area, they plant under a shovel, the distance between bushes and rows of 50-60 centimeters, that when hilling up, sometimes you have to “bare” neighboring bushes by raking up piles of soil, which is very inconvenient for me.

Many seed potatoes require this method. This does not fit into my idea of \u200b\u200ba sufficient territory for each plant, it turns out something like potato communal where the potato bushes are pushed by both roots and leaves, especially when the leaves rise.

It turns out a kind of suppression and weakening of each bush and the entire potato field as a whole. (Monoculture!) It is very inconvenient to work on such dense plantings, and it is very inconvenient for potatoes to grow. Planting potatoes is almost always done in rows, only the row spacing and the distance between the tubers change. And so let's analyze the planting patterns potatoes for the unit of measurement of all gardens and orchards - weaving.

Weaving is a banal ten by ten meters, obtained by multiplying ten meters long by ten meters wide. This is how we get one hundred square meters - our WEAVING. This is how the potato sits "under a shovel", the approximate distance to process is not very convenient. There is such an opinion when calculating the harvest potatoes, at which you need to multiply the yield from one bush by 500 in (average) and as a result you should get the total yield from a hundred square meters of your garden.

Although if we multiply 14 rows (with a row spacing of 70 cm) by 33 bushes (30 centimeters between tubers), we get 462 bushes per hundred square meters. Then we multiply the yield of one bush, for example, 1.5 kilograms by 462 number of bushes - we get 693 kilograms of potatoes per hundred, this is with classical scheme landing 70 by 30 centimeters.

There are other methods of planting, but in principle it is still planting in rows or beds. You need to start with the yield, to be more precise, with the fertility of the soil of the area where potatoes will grow, and soil fertility is not a constant value.

It happens that they dig out less than they planted :) Knowing what kind of crop our land is capable of, it is possible to draw up a potato planting scheme more accurately, with a more predictable result. I mean the "marketability" of our future tubers.

It’s already easier here, if you like larger tubers, then plant less often (the potato bush gets more nutrition), if you prefer smaller, then plant more often (the potato bush gets less food). Of course, it does not come year after year, and it is impossible to predict what kind of summer it will be, but it is already somewhat closer when you start from the possibility of the earth.

You know what you will get, of course, if you do not leave your potato.Scheme of planting potatoes with wide aisles for small areas, in the rows, potatoes can be arranged as it is more convenient for anyone, and who needs what size tubers. My planting scheme is as follows, “beds” a meter wide with meter row spacing basic principle, and seed potatoes much less is needed. Such wide aisles make it possible to increase the side illumination of the stems, the greatest effect is achieved when plantings are placed from north to south.

I regulate the size of the tubers by the frequency of planting tubers in the rows. Here, at least in one row, sit down, at least in a checkerboard pattern, I give this to the will of the “spring exacerbation”.

It is quite convenient to process potatoes planted in this way, there is no crowding, food goes to all the bushes in plenty. Of course, as this method on large areas I don't know how to use, those who plant 20 or 30 acres should use the planting scheme that gives the best results and is more convenient for their fields. Vernalized potatoes before planting.

We usually use such potatoes before planting. It sprouts quickly, grows beautifully! As a result, if you have fertilized the land on the site since autumn, you have the right seed potato tubers and you have a desire to grow a good potato harvest

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