The technology of puttying walls for leveling under wallpaper: which mixture to choose, how to apply, how many layers and how good the finish is. How to properly putty walls

Starting repairs in the house, you should draw up an accurate, comprehensive work plan and follow it clearly. Particular attention should be paid to the walls. Unfortunately, not a single paint, whitewash or wallpaper can hide cosmetic defects and flaws. wall panels. Even in a new, newly built building, the quality and evenness of the walls leave much to be desired, which means that you will have to do something yourself.

Putty is the building material that allows you to level the walls and get rid of cracks and irregularities before final finishing or decorating walls or other panels, which will allow you to make repairs with high quality.

Types of putties and their properties

Manufacturers of building materials offer putties already prepared and dry, sold in bags in the form of mixtures. When choosing here or another form of material release, you should pay attention to the marking indicated on the package. The letters KR or LR indicate that the putty is intended for ordinary premises, and the VH marking implies use for rooms with high humidity.

There is no tangible difference between the already finished putty and the dry mix. There are small nuances, such as additional additives, maximum thickness layer obtained in one application.

An open jar or a prepared amount of putty mixture must be used within 24 hours, otherwise it will lose all its properties, it will be difficult and difficult to apply, and a good result when working with such a tool is not guaranteed.

There are also starting and finishing putties designed for certain stages of puttying.

To dilute the dry mix you will need:

• dry putty mixture;
• water;
• container for mixing;
• construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle.

Usually putty is diluted in a ratio of 1 l cold water per 2.5 kg of dry mix.

The resulting putty mixture should be close in consistency to thick sour cream. Too liquid composition will flow down the wall, thicker - clumping on limited area preventing an even layer of product from being applied.

It should be remembered that the resulting mixture can neither be thickened with an additional portion of dry powder, nor diluted with water. Particular attention should be paid to preventing the ingress of foreign matter and dirt (particles of old material from the mixer, small stones, etc.).

Required tool

Puttying is not such a complicated process and can be done independently. Various tools are required for the job.

1. different sizes small to large (some wall areas will require spatulas up to 60 cm long). The blades of working spatulas should be even and smooth, without nicks. If your spatulas do not meet this requirement, lightly sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper.

   

2. , it will be needed to apply a hefty portion of putty on especially large irregularities and cracks in the walls.

   

3. . This tool is useful when repairing accidental damage to a fresh layer of putty. Due to the elasticity of the material and its small size, the spatula is convenient for applying small portions of putty to the surface and allows you to level the recesses without creating new irregularities.

   

4. Level .
5. . Fine-grained sandpaper will be very useful for the final grouting of completely puttied walls. And coarse sandpaper is useful before applying the first layer of putty mixture, it is good to rub the walls with such paper, removing irregularities and roughness.

   

6. , firmly fixing and holding the abrasive. It should be remembered that some coatings cannot be sanded after the final layer!

   

7. Primer and priming tools. Brushes and rollers must be clean and free of foreign material.
8. Corner profile or painting grid.

   

Stages of puttying

The whole process of applying putty material can be divided into successive stages.

Stage 1. Removing old paint or wallpaper and cleaning the walls

The main task of this stage is to make the walls as clean as possible. To do this, all stains (rust, dirt, grease) should be removed. Places of localization of mold - treat with specially designed compounds. All decorative and facing materials from the walls must be removed. Remove old plaster. When carrying out the above works, spatulas, building washes and other solutions are used to facilitate the stage of cleaning the walls. The cleaned walls need to be dried, without draft, on average, it takes from 12 to 24 hours to dry.

Stage 2. Primer

Many neglect the priming of the walls, which is absolutely in vain. The surface treated with a primer acquires greater strength and is better suited for puttying, due to the good adhesion of the putty mixture to the primed wall.

“Clean” walls are primed in two layers, if plastering of the walls is supposed to be enough and one layer of primer before puttying. Primer creates thin film on the surface of the wall and protects against the development of fungus and mold.

To work, you will need two spatulas - the middle one for collecting the working mass from the container and distributing it with a uniform comb over a larger spatula, which will level the putty on the wall. "Working" spatulas may vary depending on the section of the wall.

Experts advise starting work from the left edge and moving clockwise. The wall is puttied with a little overlap, trying to level the putty mixture as much as possible. It is important to avoid applying too much putty. The spatula should be moved diagonally, imitating the movements of car “wipers”, running the tool along the wall at an angle of 30-35 degrees towards you and without too much pressure.

It is important to let each layer dry thoroughly - this will serve as a guarantee of a strong and durable coating.

How to handle corners?

To get a perfectly even angle, you can use a special corner spatula. The main nuance is that the putty mass is applied to the wall itself and leveled with a spatula from top to bottom.

There is an option to use a corner profile, which is glued into the corner before the first puttying or plastering. However, this method is not applicable if the walls are being prepared for painting.

In this case, you can leave more putty in the corners and bring the joints of the wall panels to an ideal state at the final sanding stage.

Stage 3. Applying the first layer of putty

The first layer is usually the densest. If the walls are too uneven, then a special mesh is attached over the entire surface area, which is glued with construction adhesive. If the walls are sufficiently even, then the paint mesh is glued only in the corners (internal and external). The stronger and stiffer the material, the smoother the puttied surface will be.

If there are strobes and deep cracks in the walls, then the putty is first applied locally, having previously primed the cleft, and then the entire wall is treated with putty.

Building brands offer special starting putties for this stage, which have higher elasticity and allow you to apply a layer up to 1 cm thick. But such a layer will dry for at least 24 hours. The recommended starting layer thickness is 5 mm.

Stage 4. Second putty using beacons

This stage of work is similar to the previous one, only during its implementation the evenness of the wall is constantly checked building rule or level. The second layer is much thinner than the first.

An important point: when making the second puttying, you need to “stretch” the surface as best as possible, giving it maximum evenness.

Stage 5. Final third puttying

The thinnest layer, its thickness is not more than 2.5 mm. For this stage, there are also special mixtures, the main task of which is to give the surface smoothness. But, if the previous steps were performed poorly, this layer will not be able to correct the situation.

Stage 6. Final drying

Puttyed walls are dried at closed windows and temperature fluctuations. Sharp fluctuations in thermal conditions and drafts can cause cracks and deformations in the putty coating. Drying using electrical installations and heaters is unacceptable. That is, you need to dry the room with the windows closed, but the interior doors wide open.

Stage 7. Grouting and sanding

To give the wall a final smoothness, it must be sanded using a holder. It is important to understand that when preparing walls for wallpapering, it is necessary to sand with an abrasive with a grain size in the range from P80 to P120. When preparing the wall for painting - from P120 - P150, after which the wall is primed and dried again.

Puttying is not a very complicated process, but it requires patience and certain skills in working with a spatula and tools.

Video - How to properly putty walls?

If you decide to putty the walls with your own hands and not resort to the help of a specialist, then in this article you will find a lot of useful information for yourself. Let's figure out how to properly putty walls for wallpaper, for painting. Of course, the matter is not simple and requires skill, but we will try to understand the question “how to putty walls?” I will not teach you how to hold a spatula and somehow especially drive it, you will learn all this yourself in the process of work. If a question is not covered, do not hesitate to ask it in the comments.

What is putty

Putty is a finishing material that is used to level small defects and create a uniform surface structure. It mainly consists of gypsum, acrylic and polymer materials.

Why putty walls

The walls are puttied in order to remove and even out minor surface defects, to improve adhesion. Putty performs very well the function of preparation for finishing. In addition to the leveling qualities, putty is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and well processed or polished.

Putty or putty which is correct?

Especially for those who argue for the correct spelling. In dictionaries, the words putty and putty have the same lexical meanings so both are correct. But there is one thing, but ... In most construction literature and official information sources, the option (putty) is used. It is up to you to decide which option is more convenient for consumption, but still, it is more fair to say - putty! But in this article, for certain reasons, I will use two options.

Types of putty for walls

And so how to do right choice at the time of buying. First, let's figure out what types it is. We conditionally divide the types of putties into 4 types. For convenience, we will consider them in this form:

• Starting
• Finishing
• facade

To understand what kind of putty you need and in what quantity, you need to build on two factors:

1. What kind of surface is
2. What finish will be at the finish

We will consider all possible options below, but for now let's talk about the types of putty

Starting putty

Designed for rough alignment of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. The starting putty fills small and deep cracks well and does not shrink when dried. The composition mainly includes gypsum and acrylic additives. Well covers plastered surfaces, well suited for preparation for wallpaper or fiberglass (cobweb).

Finishing putty

Designed for the final alignment of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. B consists mainly of polymers, therefore it does not have a large grain size. When filling deep scratches gives significant shrinkage after drying. It is mainly used on the final layers in preparation for painting, decorative fine coatings. Good for fiberglass reinforcement.

Putties for special applications

This type includes all other varieties that will be useful to us in the repair. These are putties for sealing factory and non-factory drywall joints, for reinforcing and filling various joints and cracks. They dry quickly for ease of use, practically do not shrink, and have increased strength.

Facade putty

The scope of their application is clear from the name. The composition contains cement, therefore it has a greenish tint and is often called cement putty. It is applied in damp rooms, loggias, in basements and on facades. It is frost-resistant at drying and has the increased durability.

What putty to choose

So still, which putty to choose? A few words about the composition and frequently asked questions.

Choosing a putty according to the composition

Here I’ll tell you what putties are in composition and which of the above types I can attribute them to. At the same time I will answer frequently asked questions. I think everything will fall into place here.

Gypsum putty

The main composition is gypsum, the rest is plasticizers and all kinds of additives. Gypsum itself has a coarse fraction compared to other types of putties. Therefore, it belongs to the type of starting finishing materials, well suited for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and rough decorative finishes.

Acrylic putty

Acrylic is such a versatile material that can be used in the production of putties of any kind, both starting dry and finishing in buckets. As well as acrylic putties are widely used in the processing of wood car bodies, etc. Therefore, it is probably not correct to use the concept of "acrylic putty" for specific application. In this case, it can be both a start and a finish. Very often used in the production of putty on wood.

Latex putty

Think for yourself, latex is rubber. Therefore, putty for wall decoration cannot be rubber, it simply contains a latex component. This putty is very flexible and can be used in wet areas, although it all depends on the manufacturer.

Polymer putty

Basically, these are all finishing putties, except for gypsum. Acrylic and vinyl are also polymers, so acrylic and vinyl putty can also be called polymer putty.

Dry putty for walls

This is the starting material, mainly plaster and acrylic. Again, suitable for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and decor.

What putty to choose for painting

The wall is prepared for painting as follows:

If the plaster on the wall is 2 layers of starting gypsum putty, we prime it, if necessary, we glue the cobweb or reinforcing mesh and 3 layers of finished putty, grind it and you're done. If you are interested in specifics, then I use acryl-putz starting at the beginning and rotband pasta or sheetrock at the finish. It's about quality paint. If high-quality painting is not needed, then you can putty 3 layers of starting putty, grind and paint.

What putty to choose for wallpaper

Under the wallpaper I use a starting putty that comes dry in bags. If we putty plaster, then basically 3 layers of gypsum or acrylic are enough starting putty. I can recommend acryl-putz, miners, typhoon, knauf. (if they are sold in your regions). Pay attention to the price cheap material almost always bad. How to putty the walls under the wallpaper, we'll talk a little later.

Putty start-finish

Positioned as a universal putty. Very well suited for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and rough painting. As a finishing putty on the cobweb, this mixture will not work, I also do not recommend it for finishing for painting ceilings and slopes. Finishing putty should be in ready-made in buckets for polymer base and not dry. There are no universal putties that perform their function well everywhere.

The best finishing putty

Behind long time work in the field of decoration, I tried to work with different brands. I have used them in different conditions and on different surfaces. As for the finishing putty, I can safely say that you need to take Knauf rotband pasta, sheetrock, Bostik finspakel (hardens a lot) Often finishing putty called "ready putty for walls"

Summing up the choice

A short selection of putty. For those who are too lazy to read the entire article, who just need to know the number of layers and what kind of putty to buy:

Type of training	Work order
under the wallpaper	3 layers of starter
for painting	2 layers of starting, cobweb, 3 layers of finishing
for decorative coating rough	2 layers of starting, mesh reinforcement, 1 layer of starting
for decorative coating finely dispersed	2 layers of starting, reinforcement, 3 layers of finishing
slopes	2 start, web, 3 finish
GKL for painting	finishing of seams with special putties, cobwebs, 3 layers of finishing
GKL under wallpaper	finishing of seams, finishing of seams with finishing putty
loggia	3 layers of facade (if you really need to putty, and it's damp on the balcony)
basement	if the facade putty is very damp 3 layers.
bathroom	although not recommended, I use the usual technology, as in other rooms. But you can paint it with moisture resistant paint.

We will discuss this in more detail in the following chapters.

Calculation and consumption of putty for different surfaces

And so, how to calculate putty for walls ... To begin with, let's figure out what surface we have, if these are plastered walls, then the consumption will increase significantly. Drywall walls will not require a lot of putty, but they will require a special putty for fugen, uniflot joints.

Putty consumption per m2

The average consumption of the starting putty, indicated by the manufacturers, is 1kg-1.2kg per m2 of the wall with a layer thickness of 0.6-3mm. Putty consumption per 1 m2 of wall is a very approximate parameter.

Basically, the consumption depends on the characteristics of the wall (state, porosity), the experience of the “specialist” also plays a significant role

The consumption of finishing putty per m2 of the wall is slightly less, 0.3-0.5 kg with a layer thickness of 0.5 mm. Again, it all depends on the surface being treated. For example, the consumption of putty on the gossamer will be much more than stated and will be approximately 0.5 kg per m2.

You will not be able to calculate the exact amount of putty, so we take the average figures, multiply by the number of layers (thickness mm) and multiply by the quadrature of the walls. For example, if total area the walls of the room are 40m2 and we need to prepare it for wallpaper, then we take the indicator 1kg and multiply by the number of layers (3 layers of 0.6mm = 1.8mm) and multiply by 40m2

1kg*1.8mm*40m2= 72kg

One bag of putty usually weighs 25kg, so we need 3 bags of dry starter putty per 40m2 room.

Calculation of putty for sealing plasterboard joints "fugenfüller" and "uniflot"

I recommend sealing factory seams with fugen knauf, and not with factory seams (cut) uniflot. There are usually not so many non-factory seams, therefore we buy the smallest volume of “uniflot” 5 kg. As for the Factory seams, the Fugenfüller consumption is approximately 1 kg per 4m2 of mounted drywall.

How to putty walls (tool)

How to putty walls? The main thing we need from the tool:

• Spatula 10 cm
• Spatula 35 cm or metal grater, trowel.
• Mixer, whisk
• Roller and brush for primer
• Grinding grater, sandpaper
• Masking tape, knife, blades
• Water tank
• Lighting, spotlight
• Vacuum cleaner

Paying attention! All spatulas, trowels, roller handles must be rust-free. So they will serve you much longer and problems with rusty spots will not be on the walls

Preparation for putty

Any leveling of walls with putty begins with preparation. Wall preparation is very milestone, it will depend on how well the subsequent finishing materials will hold. The surface should be well cleaned of debris, old wallpaper, everything that does not hold well and crumbles. All nails and protruding mortar are removed if it is plaster.

Next comes the surface primer, the wall should be well saturated with a deep penetration primer and wait until it dries completely, it is advisable to wait at least four hours, and even better, continue work the next day. The primer should not only absorb and dry, but also polymerize.

How to remove old putty from walls

If you need to remove the old putty, because it does not hold well, then a 10 cm spatula and, for example, a hatchet are enough. If the putty is holding well, you can try to wet it several times with water. It is good to prescribe, and again try to remove it with a spatula.

If the putty is well primed, not removed and not soaked, then there are only two options.

• Knock down with a perforator to the plaster (then you will need to plaster the surface)
• The second option is to make notches with a hatchet, prime with a deep penetration primer, wait until it dries completely, and then cover the entire wall with putsgrunt (sandy soil)

Puttying various surfaces for different finishes

putty various surfaces at its core, this is the same process, the difference is only in the preparation and number of layers. I’ll tell you about the puttying technique itself in another chapter, and in this one we will talk about the preparation and number of layers.

How to putty drywall

We’ll talk more about the puttying technology itself in the chapter “do-it-yourself wall putty ( step-by-step instruction)". We start with the preparation of drywall. The preparation includes sealing the seams with sickle tape or paper tape. At this stage, we will need a putty for a special application (basically, this application is the sealing of HL joints). To seal the factory joints of HL, we use knauf fugen. For non-factory seams, we use knauf uniflot.

Drywall primer before puttying

We evenly apply the primer on the wall with a roller, be sure to evenly and without smudges, prime all seams and corners with a brush. We are waiting for complete drying!

Puttying drywall joints with fugen and uniflot putties

This is a special putty for drywall developed by Knauf, which practically does not shrink and performs its function very well. We glue the sickle tape on the factory seams, coat the fugen knauf factory seams, and not the uniflot knauf factory seams. If we use paper tape, then first we coat the seams with putty, then we glue the tape and push it deep into the layer with a spatula. Non-factory seams should have expansion gaps, and the cardboard edges should be cut on each side at 45 degrees.

How to knead the fugenfüller is read on the package. I draw your attention to the fact that you need to knead only in clean water and only by hand.

Puttying drywall before wallpapering

We are waiting for the complete drying of the sealed seams, we clean the excess and small sagging with a 35 cm spatula. We knead the starting putty and go through all the seams again. We are waiting for complete drying, then we clean all the seams with coarse sandpaper 80P-100P. Then re-priming the entire wall.

Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering? Usually, the sealed seams should be enough for subsequent wallpapering (be sure to putty the seams with a starting putty after the fugen dries). But, if you have very thin wallpaper, then it is advisable to putty the entire wall of GKL with a finished finishing putty in three layers. I recommend using knauf rotband pasta or sheetrock finishing putty. We clean it with an emery abrasive 140-180P, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and re-primer.

Plasterboard plasterboard for painting

Seams are closed in the above way. The seams must be cleaned and the entire wall primed. For high-quality painting, we use a cobweb, glue it on Bostik glue (I wrote about this in an article about gluing cobwebs) Then we putty the cobweb into three layers and clean it with sandpaper 180-240R. Instead of a cobweb, you can glue a paint grid with a 2x2 cell.

If you are not very interested in quality, but savings are required, then you can simply clean the seams and paint with a long-nap roller. It will turn out a little better if you putty another 2 layers with finishing putty, clean it up 180r.

Wall putty for painting

The technology of puttying walls for painting does not differ from others, only the number of layers, the presence of reinforcing material (if high-quality painting), the number of sandpaper when cleaning the putty differ.

If the surface is plastered, then the sequence of work should look like this:

1. Preparation, primer
2. 2-3 layers of starting putty (depending on the quality of the plaster)
3. Rough sanding with 80R sandpaper
4. Dusting, priming
5. Fiberglass (cobweb) is glued, or reinforcing mesh (glued to the finishing putty)
6. Then 2-3 layers of finishing finished putty
7. Grinding with sandpaper 180-240R
8. Dedusting, vacuuming, priming (white primer)

Puttying fiberglass before painting

Many people ask the question, is it possible to putty fiberglass? In fact, these are glass wallpapers and many simply paint them, but I will tell you that this is complete nonsense. Practice shows that puttying a cobweb is not only possible, but necessary!

Here only ready-made putty for walls (finishing) will be used. We putty the first layer “on the strip”, hammer it in, smooth the putty into all the pores of the cobweb in different directions and completely removed. We putty under good consecration, we make sure that there are no gaps. We try not to drive with a spatula for a long time if the cobweb Bad quality, then it will soak and reach for the spatula. The next two applications of putty are applied with a thin, neat layer.

How to putty the walls under the wallpaper

Wall putty for wallpaper - one hundred most simple preparation, in my opinion. Reinforcement is not required if the wallpaper is thick, even finishing putty is not required. Easily rubbed with coarse sandpaper. The main thing is to observe the minimum technology, which I will describe below.

1. We clean, dedust the wall
2. Separately close up large pits and cracks
3. The first layer is applied
4. After drying, the wall is cleaned with a spatula from excess debris.
5. Apply 2 layers
6. Cleaned with sandpaper 100-120R
7. Dedusted
8. Prime with white primer, wait for complete drying

I recommend buying thick non-woven wallpaper, they are easier to apply and better hide the small nuances of the walls. Finishing putty under the wallpaper is needed if the wallpaper is very thin and any defects will be visible. This also applies to photo wallpapers, it is also desirable to use finishing putty under them.

Puttying concrete walls

Puttying concrete walls without plaster is permissible in panel houses with relatively even walls, in other cases plastering of surfaces is required. It is enough to prepare well, remove everything superfluous from the wall, prime. Then, using 3 layers of starting putty, prepare for wallpaper.

Putty on foam (how to putty foam)

I don’t know what situation a person should have in order for him to need to putty penoplex, but often such questions come to our mail. Most likely, a person does not understand what putty is and does not have a clue how penoplex gets off. Or maybe he just needs to finish the facade, or the loggia, and he calls it all foam putty ... I don’t know, but I’ll write a few words about this.

Penoplex cannot be putty with materials for interior decoration, and in this article, we are talking about it. Consider the option of a loggia, for example, we have it insulated with foam plastic, dubbed and we need to prepare the surface for painting.

We cover with glue for insulation all the holes and hats from the dowel-nails. We glue facade mesh, we grind everything with plaster. After complete drying, primer. Now the walls can be puttied with cement facade putty. Personally, I recommend not to putty cheap facade mixtures, and in this case it is best to use decorative plaster (for example, a 1.5mm stone)

Facade putty should be ground immediately after complete drying. If you wait a couple of days, then the emery abrasive will not take it.

Putty plastered walls

The plastered wall must be well cleaned with a 35 cm spatula, all sagging and everything that is pouring should be removed. Then the entire wall should be well primed and wait for complete drying. If we cook under the wallpaper, then we putty the starting putty into 3 layers. We coat all the cracks well with the first layer, fill in all the irregularities of the plaster, often such a first layer is called “puttying on a peel”. This is followed by 2 layers approximately 1mm thick. After drying, grind and primer (if under the wallpaper). If for painting, then we prepare the wall further, I will describe in more detail in the chapter “putty for painting”

Is it possible to putty on the paint

It is not advisable to putty on the paint. If you need to putty acrylic paint, then you first need to make sure that it holds well, then prime it well and wait for it to dry completely. Now it is permissible to putty on a few layers of finishing putty.

If you need to putty oil paint and there are no other options, then you need to cover it with sandy primer (for example, Caparol Putzgrund 610), after which you can putty the surface in several layers. I repeat, it is not advisable to putty the paint, it is recommended to remove it.

Putty without plaster

If you do not want to level the walls with plaster, but simply putty the walls with your own hands and stick wallpaper, then first check how crooked the walls are. This can be done using a level or a rule. If the curvature is not very large and the quality of wallpapering is of little interest to you, then you can simply putty on 3 layers and grind it with a large 80R sandpaper. We use putty exclusively starting.

How to putty a balcony (loggia)

Such cold rooms are usually finished with facade materials, so facade putty is suitable for us. The composition of the facade putty includes cement, so it has a fairly large fraction. I recommend using high-quality expensive material (for example, Caparol) Cheap - when grinding the emery, it spills out in spots and behaves poorly when applied. If you need to finish the loggia, it is better to use decorative plaster on the walls.

Do-it-yourself wall putty (step by step instructions)

Here we will talk about how to putty the walls with your own hands step by step. We have already talked about preparing different surfaces etc. in the following chapters, we will take a closer look at the putty technology itself and talk again about preparing for wallpaper, painting, and learn how to properly apply putty.

We carry out works in dry rooms with a temperature from +5 to +25. The material is transported at the same temperature.

Step 1: preparing the walls

I already wrote about the preparation of the walls above in the chapter “preparation for putty” here I will repeat a little so as not to confuse everything even more. We clean the walls with a 35 cm spatula (preferably an old one) after such cleaning, the spatula is not very suitable for subsequent puttying. We clean the corners well, often after plastering the corners are slightly rounded. Pay attention to the connection to the ceiling and floor. The plane should be flat and neatly adjacent to adjacent walls and ceilings.

Step 2: priming the walls before puttying

Which primer is best? The soil should be a block of impregnation, I recommend Caparol Tiefgrund, ceresit st17. Although any concentrated primer will work well deep impregnation. We dilute the primer according to the instructions, pour it into a bucket or bath and use a brush to impregnate all the corners and adjoining walls. Then, using a roller, apply a primer to all surfaces requiring puttying. The primer of the walls for puttying is done evenly. We are waiting for complete drying from four hours, but preferably a day.

Step 3: how to spread putty

Pour approximately 2 liters of clean water into a bucket and pour 5 kg of dry putty (all figures depend on the manufacturer). Then use a mixer or whisk with a drill, mix everything until smooth. If required, add water or putty to achieve the desired density. If putty is taken on a 10 cm spatula and turned over, then it should not drain. Also, the solution should not be very thick, but well elastic. After the first mixing, wait 3-4 minutes and mix again. After that, the solution is ready for use. The solution should resemble thick sour cream.

If you want to putty with a finished type of putty, then I recommend adding 0.5 liters of clean water to a 10-liter bucket and mix with a mixer. Putty will become more elastic and more convenient to apply

Step 4: putty technology

Finishing and starting putty is applied essentially the same, the difference is only in the thickness of the application.

How to apply putty

If there are large potholes and cracks on the wall, then we putty them in advance and wait until everything dries. Then we apply putty in an even layer on a 35 cm spatula and, starting from the corner, we begin to put putty on the wall. If the wall is plastered, then after application we remove the putty “on the strip” with a spatula so that the first layer penetrates only into all small cracks and irregularities.

Do not forget that we are leveling the walls with putty, so we try to fill in all the holes and small irregularities

After the first layer has dried, we re-clean the wall with a spatula from particles of excess sand putty from plaster and other debris. Then we evenly apply the second layer of putty, but we do not remove it completely, but apply a layer of approximately 0.5 mm, in places of irregularities the layer can reach up to 5 mm.

We putty necessarily with good consecration, preferably under a spotlight or a light bulb.

The third layer can be applied without waiting for the second layer to dry completely. We apply each layer in different directions so that the final movement of the spatula does not coincide with the direction of the next one. The third layer can be applied generally fan-shaped, smoothing out with arcuate movements.

Pay attention to reverse side spatula. Periodically remove dry particles of putty and debris from it.

How to apply finishing putty (liquid putty for walls)

Wash the tool often so that it does not become completely overgrown. To do this, you need to have a bucket of water and dish sponges on hand.

The finished finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting one (described above). We try to apply a layer thinner. Be sure to putty the walls for good side lighting. Finishing putty has the property of strong shrinkage, so it is better not to level a layer of 2-3 mm.

Step 5: how to putty the corners

Puttying the corners of the walls is an important step, you need to make sure that the corners are well filled with putty and dark empty cracks do not shine through.

Inner corner

The inner corner of the adjacent ones is puttied alternately. First, one wall, we wait for complete drying, with a spatula we remove excess putty particles from the corner, then we putty the adjacent wall.

outside corner

In modern repairs, perforated corners have long been used, for painting works aluminum are used. They are set according to the level, after drying, the corner should be pulled off with putty on both sides. (I recommend delaying the fugen knauf, it shrinks a little)

Plastering drywall corners

The inner corner of the GKL is glued with a sickle tape or a special paper tape and pulled off with a uniflot or fugen putty. If sickle tape is used, then we carefully push the putty into the drywall seams. If a paper tape, then the seams are filled before applying the tape, the excess putty is pressed through and removed with a spatula. The outer corner is also exposed to the "fugenfüller" and is pulled from both sides. (in some cases, the corner is pulled twice)

Reinforcement

Reinforcement during puttying usually occurs at the stage when our wall is puttied for 1-3 layers. Reinforcement such as paint mesh and gossamer protects the wall only from small cracks. In addition to the reinforcing effect, the gossamer creates a uniform surface and smoothes out small irregularities.

Gossamer (fiberglass)

In one of the articles, I described detailed technology sticking cobwebs, so I will describe briefly here.

1. 2-3 layers of starting putty, cleaned with 80P sandpaper
2. Priming, waiting for complete drying
3. Glue is applied with a roller (I recommend glue from Bostik, or Oskar)
4. Fiberglass is applied, smoothed with a spatula
5. Reapply a layer of glue with a roller
6. Smooth with a spatula 35 cm, as if putty with glue
7. Subsequent strips of fiberglass are glued end-to-end, or cut with a knife at the junction

paint mesh

Autumn protects walls well from small cracks, great for preparing for painting or under decorative types finishes.

1. 1-2 layers of starting putty (we are waiting for complete drying
2. We clean the wall with a spatula
3. We impose a grid and smooth on top with finishing putty
4. The excess is cut off with a paint knife.
5. After that, 2 more layers of finishing putty are applied.

How long does putty dry on the walls

Putty dries for about 6 hours, it all depends on the temperature and humidity of the room. It is advisable to wait a day, and then proceed to grinding. It is not recommended to wait several days, some brands of putty harden strongly.

Sanding walls after plastering

So we figured out how to properly putty the walls, now we will answer the question of how to sand the walls after puttying. There is nothing complicated in grinding, there are only a few small nuances, which I will now talk about.
Hand grinding

In manual grinding, " hand grater"- this is a tool for grinding walls after puttying, I advise you to purchase from white plastic. black leaves streaks in the corners when sanded. Sandpaper is better to use not the cheapest. The most important thing and the very first thing to say is to remember to use a respirator!

Sanding the walls after puttying takes place exclusively in circular motions and under the consecration of a spotlight!

If we use a household vacuum cleaner, then there is a chance of damaging the equipment. Therefore, we first remove large debris with a spatula and sweep. Vacuum the rest of the dust.

Grid for putty grouting

Personally, I do not use a mesh, in my region it is not of high quality and scratches the surface. As far as I know, it can be used with special graters that connect to a vacuum cleaner. You need to connect only industrial devices, for example, bosch gas50.

Machine grinding

In my opinion, machine sanding is great for sanding under wallpaper, and requires some skill so as not to rub large holes. Before painting, it is better to grind by hand. Machine sanding reduces labor costs, reduces dust, and speeds up the process. But it will take Sander(preferably a special one for grinding walls), a vacuum cleaner. All this can be rented if you need to grind large volumes.

To get beautiful wall decoration surface must be properly prepared. To do this, you need to align the walls as much as possible with puttying. achieve good results very simple, the main thing is to correctly choose the material, tools for work and study the nuances of applying putty.

How to putty walls with your own hands

Almost all types of finishing activities (except for tiling or special panels) require preliminary alignment walls. Particular attention should be paid to surface treatment for painting or wallpaper. What materials are used for processing, how to properly putty the walls? The answers to these and other questions can be found below. First, we will talk about leveling surfaces for wallpaper and paintwork.

Wall putty for wallpaper

Many are interested in this topic: the elimination of irregularities from the surface on which it is planned to paste the wallpaper. As a rule, the walls are put in order with the help of a special paste - putty. Before processing, the surface should be checked for defects. For this, a special tool is used - a rule that is applied to the wall horizontally, vertically, diagonally. If a gap is visible on the site, then this indicates irregularities.

How to putty walls under wallpaper? The material should be applied in a layer, the thickness of which should be no more than 5 millimeters (if the coating is thicker, it will not dry well and peel off quickly). To obtain a uniform coating, it is recommended to use a large spatula, which should be held at an angle of 30 degrees. Puttying can be started under the ceiling or from below, and it is more convenient to process the corners with a small spatula. To effectively level the dried putty, you need to use a skin with specific parameters: P80-P120 (the cost is about 150-180 rubles).

Wall putty for painting

To paintwork it turned out beautiful, perfectly smooth and looked aesthetically pleasing to the maximum, you need to know how to putty the walls for painting. Below are tips for applying putty before painting:

1. It is better to choose spatulas of medium and small dimensions.
2. Sandpaper should have a P120 grit. The touch-up coating must be sanded very carefully.
3. It is advisable to work during the day when the room is bright. This is necessary to detect every smallest defect.
4. You can create additional lighting, but for this you should conduct light from another room.
5. How to properly putty walls before applying paint? The technology for applying the leveling composition is identical to the process of puttying the surface under the wallpaper. The only difference: you need to more carefully and carefully eliminate even the most minor flaws.
6. If it is not possible to learn how to do repairs with your own hands, then it is better to invite specialists. The price of their services varies depending on many factors.

How to choose putty

A mass of pasty consistency, consisting of small parts of a mineral substance (gypsum, lime, chalk, and so on), which is used to level surfaces, is putty. Before you putty the walls, you need to make the right choice of material. It is necessary to pay attention to the size of the particles: the smaller they are, the thinner the coating layer will be. The putty mixture is classified depending on the type of binder, level of preparation, purpose.

By the type of "bundle" putty can be:

• plaster (it is used to process the internal walls of the building);
• cement (suitable for rooms with increased level humidity);
• polymer (used at the final stage of work, because it allows you to create a perfectly flat wall).

Classification by degree of readiness:

• ready;
• dry.

Depending on destination:

• leveling putty (for pre-treatment surface);
• finishing (for smoothing walls up to 1 mm);
• specialized putty (for a specific purpose, which is indicated on the package);
• universal weight (all types of destination);
• decorative (to create a specific texture on the walls, has the highest price).

Wall putty price

Before learning how to properly putty the interior walls of the room, you need to purchase a leveling compound. The price often depends on the type of coating, the manufacturer and the weight of the package. Putty can be ordered in a specialized store, bought inexpensively in an online store or in the construction market according to a catalog. Below is a table with an approximate price of finishing material different types.

Wall putty technology

Before detailed description how to properly putty a wall, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the general step by step technology process:

1. It is possible to qualitatively putty the walls only when the surface has been previously prepared. The wall must be cleaned of dust, dirt, and then repair the defects with acrylic or glue.
2. After that, the surface is treated with antiseptic agents, a primer is applied.
3. After the primer layer has dried, you can begin to putty and clean the surface.

Preparing walls for plastering

When filling walls, there is no need to use beacons or reinforcing mesh. Before starting work, the walls must be carefully prepared. The wall must be perfectly clean: it is necessary to remove stains, old plaster, scale. It is also not recommended to putty frozen surfaces. Before applying the leveling mass, it is necessary to treat the wall with a primer (the price of this material is affordable and low) - this is necessary for better adhesion of the surface and putty. The primer mixture is applied in one even layer using a special roller.

Starting putty

First, a starting putty is applied to the wall, which is needed to eliminate cracks, assembly joints, various holes and similar flaws. "Start" is laid out in several dense layers (2-5 mm). The solution is prepared from dry powder and water. Not every beginner can “recognize” the starting coating, but the specialist immediately sees it: such a putty is darker and has a loose structure after hardening. You need to plaster with a wide tool. After drying, each layer is polished with a special mesh or coarse-grained emery.

Applying finishing coat to walls

When the starting layer has hardened, it is applied finishing putty using a medium sized tool. It is laid out in a thin layer, which makes the surface of the wall perfectly smooth, beautiful. The main objective of this event is the elimination of absolutely all pores, scratches and other irregularities of the previous layer. Incorrect, poor-quality performance of any of the stages can cause deep cracks, peeling of the coating and spoil the aesthetics of the room. The price of the final material is higher than that of the starting raw material.

How to apply putty on the wall

To putty the surface of the walls with your own hands, a certain set of equipment will come in handy:

1. Drill with a special mixer. Most of the putty range is produced in dry form. The powder is best diluted in water. To mix these two components to a homogeneous, thick consistency, you must use a drill with a mixer nozzle.
2. A set of spatulas of different sizes. When filling walls, tools of large and small sizes are useful. Small spatulas are used for processing hard-to-reach areas (for example, corners).
3. Rule. This metal device is used for convenient and high-quality leveling of the putty mixture.
4. Laser level used before applying the starting layer. To check how flat the wall is, you need to set the beacons and the level.
5. Rollers and brushes for priming. This step cannot be skipped. A thin but durable primer film increases the strength of the walls, and is also a guarantee high level adhesion (adhesion) with any finishing building material.
6. Sandpaper helps to remove excess material particles and create a perfectly smooth, flat surface. For mashing the starting layer, it is better to use a coarse-grained skin, and for the finishing layer - with the smallest grains.
7. It is always possible to purchase the necessary tools at an affordable price.

How to properly apply putty on interior walls? The process technology is as follows:

1. Ready mix for leveling, it is typed with a spatula with a narrow base.
2. Then it is applied to a wide instrument and rubbed over it.
3. The spatula is applied to the surface. The mass is stretched along the wall from left to right.
4. Excess mixture is removed by moving the spatula in the opposite direction.
5. So several layers are laid out.

How to putty wall corners

To correctly putty the corners, you need to use a special tool - an angular spatula. It is suitable for processing internal and outside corners. First, a sufficient amount of the mixture is applied to the surface, and then it is smoothed with a spatula until the desired result is obtained. Thickness of putty inner corner should be 2-5 mm, because it is not easy to overwrite such a surface. For external corners it is allowed to use more material, as they will be sanded with 150 grit sandpaper.

How to level walls with putty

At the end of the article, you can familiarize yourself with the basic alignment rules. internal surfaces residential building. How to properly putty walls? It is worth adhering to this technology:

1. First, a little gypsum or lime mortar.
2. A small spatula is taken, cracks, cracks, chips in a concrete or brick wall are sealed with it.
3. Putty is applied gradually, evenly distributed over the entire surface.
4. A long ruler or rule controls the alignment result.
5. Walls and joints are sanded after the final hardening of the starting and finishing layers.

Video: do-it-yourself wall putty

We will send the material to you by e-mail

Watching the work of professional plasterers, you will involuntarily admire: everything is so smooth and even they succeed. It seems that it is simply impossible to repeat this with your own hands. This is not true. Puttying is not a complicated job that does not require specialized knowledge. We will describe in detail how to properly putty walls, how to choose the composition of the mixture and what tools you need to work.

Putty - a leveling layer to eliminate minor wall defects

Putty is a mixture of water with a dry composition. The dry composition may include only gypsum powder or gypsum powder with the addition of chalk, plasticizers or other fillers.

Often the question arises: from putty. In fact, no one knows the answer to it. The composition of putty and putty is the same, the application method is also identical. So it turns out that both of these names refer to the same material intended for leveling walls.

What is putty for?

The main task of putty is to form a perfectly flat surface suitable for painting or. Not a single repair is complete without a gypsum mixture; this material is used at the final stage of finishing.Putty is applied in several thin layers, each of which fills the smallest irregularities on the surface. With this composition, you can fill irregularities up to 2 cm deep.

Important! Professionals do not advise applying a putty mixture with a thick layer; it can fall off within a couple of days after the repair is completed.

On average, one layer of putty should not exceed 7 millimeters, and finishing layer- no more than 2 millimeters.

How to choose a putty knife for wall putty

The range of tools for plastering is very large. In a hardware store, eyes just run up, what to choose?For puttying, you will need a metal with a smooth edge and a spatula - a spatula.

When choosing a facade spatula, pay attention to its edge: it is important that it be perfectly even, without nicks. The metal on the edge should not bend. To work outside the building, use a tool up to 60 centimeters wide. For interior work, 30-40 cm wide is enough.

Small spatulas are designed for accurate processing of corners. If you decide to do such work for the first time, do not take a very wide tool, it will be more convenient for small ones to work.

Another important point in the selection of a spatula - its weight. The lighter the tool, the better.It is convenient if the second spatula, spatula, wooden handle. She does not slip in her hand. The spatula is selected in such a size that it is convenient to scoop the mixture from the bucket.

The metal part of the tool must be made of stainless steel. Any other option is not suitable, as it will quickly rust from contact with water and will leave marks on the treated surface. On sale you can find spatulas made of durable plastic, but they are much more expensive than metal ones.

Which putty is better and how to choose the composition for the walls

Putty mixtures may have different content Let's take a closer look at each type:

Type of mixture	Application features	Application area
Acrylic	Acrylic-based putty is elastic and resistant to high humidity. As a result, you will get a flat surface that is resistant to mechanical damage, does not shrink and does not form cracks.	External and internal works, leveling, roughing, starting and finishing
Latex	The plastic mixture forms very thin layers that do not crack or fall off. This finish reacts negatively to lower temperatures.	For interior decoration only
Gypsum	Used for leveling walls, can be applied in a thick layer. Doesn't respond well to wet air and is destroyed by water. Not resistant to mechanical stress.	For internal works
Cement	Not afraid of negative temperatures, does not react to humidity, resistant to mechanical damage. When applied, it shrinks, and during operation it may crack.	Suitable for facade works and interior decoration

It is impossible to give an unambiguous answer which of the listed mixtures is better. For different conditions you need to select the appropriate compositions. For the facade of the building, it is better to take cement putty, for or - acrylic, for living rooms - latex. If you are thinking about what - take a plaster one.

How to choose a putty mixture for different types of finishes

The putty mixture can be divided into three types by purpose:

• universal;
• finishing;
• starting.

The difference lies in the grain size of the filler. The starting mixture has larger fractions. With its help, you can level surfaces with significant damage: cracks, drops, potholes. The starting putty can be applied in a layer of 2 centimeters thick. It is thrown directly onto a layer of plaster and leveled using the rule.

The task of the finishing layer is to complete the alignment before application. The fractions of this mixture are very small, and the resulting layer looks smooth and even. The final putty has a layer no thicker than 5 mm.The universal mix can be used both as a starter and as a finishing coat. Such compositions are used in cases where the walls do not have significant defects.

Expert point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"

Ask a Question

“If there are significant flaws on the surface to be treated, take the starting and finishing mixture, and not one universal one. Universal costs more. In addition, the result from the use of two mixtures is much better.”

Fundamentals of wall puttying technology

- an expensive part of the construction budget. If you want to save money, do it yourself. It’s scary just before starting work, after the first wall the process will improve.

The main thing is to follow the sequence of work, clearly dividing the stages and fulfilling all the requirements.Let's look at how to properly putty walls for painting or wallpaper.

How to properly prepare and prime the walls

Foundation preparation is a critical stage of work. The result of your efforts depends on it. If the walls were wallpapered or painted, all layers of decorative coating must be removed. The wallpaper can be soaked so that it easily lags behind the wall. Particularly resistant layers should be treated with hot steam.

The paint is much more difficult to remove. You can mechanize the process using a drill with a nozzle. But cleaning must be done very carefully, otherwise then you will have to devote a lot of time to puttying. It is better to peel off the paint by hand, using sandpaper fixed on a wooden block.

Important! In the process of cleaning the walls, a suspension of cement, whitewash and dust will hang in the air. Be sure to use a respirator for respiratory protection.

Oil paint can be softened with a solvent, but all such compounds have a pungent odor, you can only work in a well-ventilated area.After cleaning the wall from the decorative coating, sweep it with a brush and wipe it with a slightly damp cloth. So you remove the remaining dust and debris.

In fact, a primer is an adhesive that forms a strong film on the wall. Its composition includes different components: resin, lime, bitumen, alum. If you want to know if the primer is suitable for your walls, look at the recommendations for use on the packaging of the composition. There are mixtures designed for processing metal, concrete, plastic.

How to make putty with your own hands

You can cook on your own. In this case, it will cost you a little cheaper, and in terms of quality it will not be inferior to the purchased composition. The ingredients for the mixture are not difficult to find, you will need the usual gypsum powder and chalk, which is used for whitewashing. For solidification and plasticity, a solution is added to the chalk laundry soap, wood glue, drying oil and varnish. In the manufacturing process, chalk and gypsum are first mixed dry, and then the powder is poured into adhesive solution. And now a few putty recipes for different surfaces:

Ingredients	purpose	Peculiarities
Chalk - 2 kg Gypsum - 1 kg Wood glue solution 3-5%	Concrete walls, alignment of seams on gypsum boards. Designed for dry rooms.	Hardens quickly after application. This mixture should be prepared in small portions.
Chalk - 1 kg Joiner's glue - 100 gr Drying oil - 1 kg	For decoration wooden surfaces, which will subsequently be colored oil paint. Suitable for rooms with high humidity.	Slowly hardens, forming an airtight film. For preparation, heated glue is mixed with drying oil and then chalk is poured.
Chalk - 2 kg Wood glue solution 10% Drying oil - 25 gr Laundry soap - 50 gr	Designed for plastering ceilings and plastered walls.	Soap must be dissolved in a small amount of water, add glue to the desired percentage and then add chalk.

Aligning the walls with your own hands with “home” putty is no different from working with a factory mixture.

How to prepare a factory-made mixture

To prepare the mixture, you need to pick up clean dishes and, preferably, a construction mixer. Manually kneading putty without lumps is difficult and physically difficult.

Do not try to mix the whole package at once, especially if you are new to this business. The composition dries quickly, so while you are training on small area walls, the whole batch may freeze and have to be thrown away.

Use water for kneading room temperature. After preparing the putty, let it stand for a quarter of an hour. The consistency of the finished putty should be similar to thick sour cream. If you have prepared a polymer, acrylic or latex mixture and did not have time to fully use it, fill the container with putty with water. Drain carefully next time. surface layer water and use the composition.

Alignment of walls with starting putty

What does the process of starting puttying the walls with your own hands look like:

Illustration	Description of works
	Mix the mixture according to the instructions on the package of the mixture. Use a construction mixer for a quality batch.
	Scoop up a thick mixture with a spatula and apply to the spatula, distributing along the entire length.
	From the bottom up, apply putty to the surface. Fill in the section of the wall like this.
	With a wide spatula, smooth out all the seams formed from the bottom up and sideways.
	After the putty has hardened, level the surface with sandpaper.

For a beginner in this business, video material on how to putty walls with your own hands:

Video instruction: how to properly putty walls with beacons

You are lucky if the main surface is made with high quality, in compliance with the level and without major flaws. If not, you can level it or putty.For perfect result on the uneven wall beacons are required. To expose them, you need to pull the thread along the wall, vertically and diagonally. The direction of the thread should be checked with a building level.

After the marks have dried, the main puttying work is carried out.

How to correctly align the walls with putty on the lighthouses, in the following video material:

How to apply finishing putty on the wall

Use as a finishing layer polymer composition- acrylic or latex.

Illustration	Description of works
	To knead the finish coating, you need to carefully measure the proportions and prepare the amount of water that is recommended in the instructions.
	The mixture is poured into water, and not vice versa. It is necessary to mix the solution thoroughly until the consistency of sour cream is obtained.
	To apply the finishing layer, use a spatula with a width of 30-40 centimeters
	The first layer of the top coat should be the thinnest, it will help to reveal all existing irregularities.
	The second layer of putty is applied only a day later, after the first has completely dried.

Beginners are most often faced with the question of how to work with a spatula. Not everyone gets it right the first time. Pay attention to the video recommendation on how to apply finishing putty on the wall:

Related article:

We will talk about different compositions and appointments of solutions, methods of their preparation, necessary tools and materials, as well as the application technology itself.

How to sand the walls after puttying

No matter how hard you try, after the finishing layer of putty on the wall there will be traces of a spatula. If they are not removed, they will show through. On the final stage the surface needs to be sanded. This is a laborious task, but without polishing you will never achieve the desired result.