“Better once shyzh-myzh…” Kazakh traditions of dastarkhan. Table setting for dinner. Kazakh table setting Lamb brisket with radish: ingredients

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Cuisines of the peoples of the world... Sounds tempting, intriguing, doesn't it? Especially if among the products from which national dishes are prepared, there are many unusual for our table and stomach. But it's always interesting to know what they eat on the other side of the world. Or at least in a neighboring state. This article is a small guide to the cultural culinary traditions of one of the Central Asian countries.

National color and life

The topic of our conversation is Kazakh cuisine. If we compare the life history of the Central Asian peoples, their way of life and customs, cuisines and ways of cooking, then the Kazakhs stand somewhat apart from other nationalities. They led a nomadic way of life until the 19th century, the nationality itself was formed only at the end of the 16th century. The ancestors of the current Kazakhs are Turkic-speaking tribes. And Kazakh cuisine, the culture of processing, storing, preparing and preparing food were associated with the peculiarities of people's life. They used horse meat, camel meat, lamb, beef and dairy products as the main food raw materials: cheeses, koumiss, different varieties milk. The national Kazakh cuisine was originally extremely poor in vegetables, grain crops, and herbs. Even the first courses as such - soups, borscht and other things - were not prepared before. After all, in addition to food, the Kazakhs did not have the necessary kitchen utensils. The “dishes” for the housewives were sacks made of mutton and mare skin, where milk was sour for koumiss, cheeses were stored and meat was cooked. Kazakh cuisine began to include fried food only in the 18th century, when household the people have cast iron cauldrons and frying pans.

Features of eating

So, initially the Kazakh table consisted of boiled meat and different kind dairy products. In addition, the traditionally nomadic people stored a lot of semi-finished meat products that would be well preserved in the hot and arid steppe climate. Therefore, the national Kazakh cuisine is various types smoking, drying, salting meat separately, preparing sausages, offal. milk in fresh Kazakhs never drank and do not drink mostly to this day. But dry milk concentrates, cheeses, spoiled milk eaten constantly. So if we use modern terminology, the national dishes of Kazakh cuisine are mostly cold table dishes. And only at the beginning of the 20th century, when the people switched to a stable settled way of life, did the people have a more varied food - using flour, dough (flat cakes, beshbarmak, manti, etc.), vegetables, greens. At the same time, there were active culinary borrowings from neighboring peoples - Tajiks, Uzbeks, Dungans and others, whose cuisines were more than one hundred years old and were extremely diverse. The Kazakhs were also influenced by Russian culinary traditions - cooking potatoes, carrots and radishes, cucumber salads and others. fresh vegetables. And the table of a modern Kazakh family is filled with a variety of dishes of international cuisine.

Lamb brisket with radish: ingredients

So, you already have an idea of ​​what Kazakh cuisine is. Her recipes are, of course, somewhat exotic for us. But let's try to cook a couple of dishes from those products that are familiar to our stomachs. After all, you definitely won’t bring horsemeat home from the market! But one and a half to two kg of lamb brisket with ribs will be what you need. And we will cook a meat delicacy called "Kabyrga". In addition to a good piece of lamb, you will need a large radish, 3-4 onions, and one and a half heads of garlic. The food is quite spicy in taste, because at least 1 teaspoon of black ground pepper(or more) or one and a half or two pods of burning. Kazakh dishes mostly fatty. Therefore, for kabyrga, it is necessary from 100 g of melted lamb fat (you can replace it with half a glass of sunflower oil, but the flavor of the dish will not be the same) and one and a half glasses of rich meat broth.

Cooking

We begin to conjure over food with the preparation of meat. It should be a solid layer, fairly correct rectangular shape. Leave a piece of bones no more than 4 cm near the brisket on one side. Beat the meat. Mix pepper and salt, chop the garlic, rub the lamb with this mixture. Roll it into a roll, securing the edge by the bones. To make sure that the meat does not unwind, tie it with a harsh thread. Put fat or pour oil into a deep frying pan or cauldron, heat well and put the roll into it. Fry well on all sides, then pour in the broth, make the fire small and simmer for about an hour, not forgetting to turn over. During this time, peel the onion and radish, cut into cubes and, about 15 minutes before the end of the stew, put the vegetables in the roast. They will serve as a side dish. Free the finished roll from the threads, cut into portions and serve both hot and cold. Hearty and very tasty!

Kazakh barbecue (toast)

It is unlikely that we will find a person who would have a negative attitude towards barbecue. And there are many recipes for cooking. We will now discuss one of the ways. The dish, as you understand, is again meat, and again lamb. Take a good piece of pulp, you can also brisket. Be sure to need a young lamb - it is juicier and more tender, and therefore tastier. Along the rib bones, cut it into several wide strips along with the fat. String on skewers or skewers, fry on coals. When the toasts are almost fried, they should be removed, rub well with a mixture of a teaspoon of salt, chopped onion and garlic. Then put it back on the skewers and fry until soft. Lamb prepared in this way turns out to be very fragrant, literally melting in your mouth. Amazingly delicious toasts! Cut the lamb into thin strips and serve!

Whey semi-finished product

very interesting and useful product it will turn out if you use the Kazakh recipe for making sarsa. What it is? A kind of "extract" from whey and buttermilk. Suppose you did cottage cheese and whipped up butter. Or bought whey and buttermilk in the market (10 liters, less does not make sense). Pour both products into a cast iron or large enameled pan. Put it on low heat and boil the liquid until the contents begin to thicken and become clearly viscous. Allow the mass to cool slightly, and then form cakes from the boiling. Dry them in the oven. Sarsy flat cakes can be eaten as an independent product, by the way, very tasty. Can be crushed and added to pastry dough, white sauces and gravies. To improve the taste of the product, salt it during cooking.

Curd balls

Cottage cheese can be an excellent ingredient in the preparation of many great dishes. One of them is called completely incomprehensibly - baursak. In fact, these are cottage cheese balls prepared in a special way. Take half a kilo fermented milk product, 2 chicken eggs, 75-80 g butter or margarine, 2/3 cup sifted flour, salt, ground pepper to taste and vegetable oil for roasting. How to make balls: mash and wipe the cottage cheese through a sieve. Whisk the eggs and stir in the curd. Mash the butter and add to the preparation. Add flour, salt and pepper, knead thoroughly. Take a little of the resulting dough and roll into small balls. Throw them in a saucepan with boiling water, boil (the balls should float), remove with a colander, spread on a sieve to dry. Now roll each in flour and fry in hot oil in a cast iron so that the balls form a golden crust. Serve them hot with sour cream or cold. As you can see, Kazakh national dishes can be quite acceptable for Europeans!

delicious dessert

Cottage cheese balls or baursak can be prepared not only salty, but also sweet. To do this, in the cottage cheese, in addition to salt, put sugar, a little vanilla. You can add pieces of candied fruits, nuts, raisins. Or dried fruit. Next, cook sweet balls in the same way as salty ones. After they are fried, cool slightly and roll in powdered sugar. Well, very, very tasty!

To receive and treat guests is a special tradition that has national features and characteristics. Kazakhstanis are hospitable and friendly people who love rich and sumptuous feasts. Consider tips on how to beautifully set the table to please the guests and show them respect.

Generous dastarkhan is an ancient custom followed by all Kazakhstanis. Toy is arranged in honor of family or national, religious holidays. Each traveler who came to the house is waiting for a laid table. How generous and beautifully cleaned the table for guests, so generous will Allah be for the hosts.

Any acquaintance or business cooperation begins with the dastarkhan. They cover him when they thank him for help or want to ask for it.

Kazakhs know how to reconcile quarreling people with the help of konakasa (a custom associated with treating a guest), to honor a person. The Kazakhs have always reserved for the guests all the most delicious.

How to decorate the table and treat dear guests?

Table decoration is a tradition adopted by nomads. The inhabitants of Kazakhstan from the Turkic peoples took it as a custom to gather for beautifully cleaned and served clay, iron and wooden utensils table.

There are rules for table setting, feast decoration:

Tablecloth and napkins

1. Cover the table with a white or light-colored tablecloth. The ornament with which it is decorated is a reflection of the thoughts of the owners and their wishes to the guests.
2. Lay the tablecloth so that it does not fall below the level of the seat and falls at least 25 cm.
3. Making napkins is a new tradition adopted by Kazakhstanis from Europeans. It is recommended to choose contrasting or colored napkins. For each type of table, special ways of decorating napkins are recommended. For example, napkins in the form of a “boat” are prepared for the tea table, and they are arranged as an “envelope” for the main one.

Crockery, its location on the table

1. The decoration of the table is beautiful and whole dishes in which the dishes are laid out.
2. Choose dishes that resemble the moon or the sun. It must be round. Well, if made of gold or silver.
3. Arrange food on plates in a circle. Serve the table in the same way.

Decoration of dishes

1. Festive dishes decorate. Kaunshek (stewed melon) and zhorgem (thin sausage) curl and put on a dish like weaving.
2. Apply a flower pattern to the cakes. Use cherry juice for this.
3. Bas tabak - the first important tray with meat. Present it to aksakals and distinguished guests. Put the lamb head, tibia, fillet with five ribs above the kidney on bass tobacco. If the main dish is horse meat, then put kazy on bass tobacco, zhaya and sting. For a matchmaker or matchmaker, put a kos tabak, on which, in addition to the main set of the main dish, lay out one more femur. Syi tabak - an additional tray - is intended for the remaining parts of the carcass. For young people, put a special tray - zhastar tabagy.

Traditional meal order

Kazakhs have their own meal sequence and order of serving dishes:

1. The feast begins with tea table. The table is served with tea: bowls are served, where girls or young women pour tea. It is served with sweets, cream and butter. Bowls should not be empty. Those who have quenched their thirst will be offered a bowl of honor.
2. Snacks. Serves dishes with lamb and horse meat dishes. They are complemented vegetable dishes and cakes. Guests are offered koumiss and katyk.
3. For hot dishes, they offer roast lamb offal (kuyrdak).
4. For a snack, they offer samsa, puktermet, belyashi.
5. The main dish is served - beshbarmak. An important guest is given a boiled lamb head. He divides it and distributes parts to the guests. At the same time, traditions must be observed:

• if the father of a respected guest is present, then the ram's head goes to him;
• ears are given to young men so that they are attentive, and heaven is given to girls so that they are industrious;
• children are not given a brain, and unmarried young ladies - an ulna.

1. The owner divides the meat and distributes it to the guests. It is customary to eat it with tortillas with onions and drink meat broth, which is poured into bowls.

The distribution of meat also has its own order and traditions. Pregnant women were given cervical vertebrae, sons-in-law and daughter-in-law were given brisket, and honored guests were given pelvic bones.

Hospitable people of Kazakhstan will lay a plentiful dastarkhan for a dear guest. A generously laid table is a tribute to the visitor, a way of communication, solving household and business issues.

No matter how the order of table decoration changes, the hospitality of generous hosts remains unchanged. Remember national traditions, keep them and follow them!

Anyone who has been to Kazakhstan knows what dastarkhan means to a Kazakh. A gathering place for the whole family, an opportunity to chat with a dear guest, a festive ritual, an ordinary lunch or dinner - all this is a dastarkhan, traditional both for Asia and some eastern countries.

The consumption of food by the hospitable Kazakhs has not so much carnal as spiritual significance. Modern dastarkhan is richly served and generously filled with dishes. It is hard to believe that two hundred years ago there was no such abundance on the table. Where did the Kazakhs get the custom to cover the dastarkhan and how they behave at their table - the ZagraNitsa portal found out.

Self-assembly tablecloth

What Europeans call the Central Asian dining ritual also has a simple everyday meaning: the Kazakh dastarkhan is a tablecloth that is used to set the table for a meal. One way or another, but the Russian folk tablecloth-self-assembled and dastarkhan have a lot in common. But if the first was seen only in fairy tales, a rich feast for the Kazakhs is part of the tradition. Not by bread alone, but with bread and salt, say the wise men. Without a festive dastarkhan, the culture of modern "nomads" would have lost a lot. Every detail, every dish and the order in which it is served matters both in serving and eating. For example, you need to start dastarkhan with tea. And seating guests on a tor is the most honorable place.

The traditional Kazakh dastarkhan is a table of a square or rectangular shape, up to 35 cm high, or round (ustel). The participants of the meal sit on kurpacha - light mattresses up to 80 cm wide. Sometimes dastarkhans are laid in the yard, on the street under a canopy or in the shade of trees. Therefore, stationary wooden carved (or welded metal) tables are often equipped near the house along with trestle beds.

big toy

Generously cleaned dastarkhan is a tribute to traditions. According to an ancient Kazakh legend, once a rich but greedy merchant did not want to receive a guest. The earth swallowed him along with countless herds of cattle and home. Since then, the refusal to treat the traveler and the stinginess of the dastarkhan are considered unacceptable in Kazakhstan.

The good old-fashioned custom is especially beautiful in the villages, during national and religious holidays. The toy (feast) is arranged in a large clearing or in a place specially equipped for this, and every house, every family takes out its part of the treats. Pilaf, beshbarmak are cooked in one big cauldron for the whole village and for guests. For this, yurts are specially erected, in which they equip both the kitchen and places of rest for travelers.

Sergey Klimchik, musician

In the 80s I studied at one of the universities in Kyiv. My roommates were Kazakhs - two guys from the Almaty region, Mukambet and Miras. I remember the generosity with which they prepared food, as a rule, "with a margin" - for themselves and for several people who accidentally entered the room of friends. Of course, the everyday student dastarkhan was modest in comparison with what the relatives of Mukambet and Miras arranged, who came to visit them once a year. I have never seen such an abundance of names and dishes anywhere else! I wondered how you could take so much with you on the plane: boxes of flatbread, samsa, sausage, kazy, dried lamb and horse meat, kuyrdyk, sheep cheese, sweets, jars of koumiss and ayran. I remember that a large saucepan was placed on 4 burners, and one of the relatives who arrived was preparing milapau (brain pilaf). Walked the whole hostel ...

... than a thousand siz-biz

Kazakh dastarkhan and the guest are inseparable concepts. The Kazakhs have such a saying: “Better one shyzh-myzh than a thousand siz-biz” (siz-biz is an appeal to “you”). That is, it is better for a guest to cover the dastarkhan once than to respectfully address him a thousand times.

It is believed that friendship or business cooperation should be started with “däm tatysu” (treats). If a neighbor helped a neighbor financially or with household chores, a dastarkhan is necessarily arranged in his honor. Everything that is prepared for a dear guest and what they will certainly treat him to is konagas. During the meal, the most honored guest is presented with a ram's head, and he must share it among those present (and each piece from the ram's head has its own meaning).

Round

Interestingly, serving dastarkhan is a borrowed business. Settlement, which befell the nomads in connection with a change in the type of activity and the development of political, socio-economic milestones of life, literally brought diversity to their cuisine. From other Turkic and Eastern peoples, they adopted the manner of gathering at the table, as well as serving it with dishes - iron, earthenware, wood, leather.

Food should be served only in a whole and beautiful dish, Kazakhs are sure. For example, in many houses, koumiss is poured into special cups painted with silver - tenege. And tea - in gilded cases. Among the objects of the dastarkhan there are round and semicircular shapes - in honor of the moon and the sun. In the same way (in a circle) pieces of meat, vegetables, pastries are superimposed.

Good riddance

It is noteworthy that the dishes and cutlery on the table are not arranged proportionally, but in sectors. The tablecloth should be white or light, with an ornament (it symbolizes the thoughts of the hosts regarding the guests, the wishes of a happy journey to travelers). Dark tones- bad manners of serving. If the table has corners, the ends of the tablecloth must hide its legs. Napkins and other hygienic paraphernalia of the Kazakh feast are recent, European traditions.

In many restaurants of national cuisine, dastarkhan is served according to folk traditions(if the client so desires). The obligatory accompaniment of the festive meal is music. The Kazakhs have a lot of drinking folk songs praising the generosity of the hosts and thanking for the food.

case tobacco

Festive dishes used to decorate. Thus, dried melon (kaunshek) and thin sausage (zhorgem) traditional for the Kazakhs were curled, laid out on a dish in the form of weaving in compliance with the pattern. Drawings in the form of flowers and ornaments were applied to bread products, the juice of berries, most often cherries, was used for paint.

Tobacco dishes were in special demand: large dinner bowls, on which meat, cakes, and sweets were laid out. There were 4 types of tobacco: small, honorary, medium and large (main). On the main and honorary tobacco they put the head of the animal, always the tibia of the carcass. Small pieces of meat were placed on small tobacco.

P.S.

The traditions of the dastarkhan are highly revered by the Kazakhs. Interestingly, the "love of food" does not contribute to the trend of general obesity of the population. There are several reasons for this, nutritionists are sure: firstly, the products in Kazakhstan are environmentally friendly, without the content of harmful components and synthetics. Secondly, Kazakhs are physically active: they go in for sports, lead a healthy lifestyle. Nearly a thousand long-livers live in the Republic of Kazakhstan, whose age is about or more than 100 years.