Perennial clematis are represented by a variety of species and colors. More than 230 species of this flowering plant are known in horticulture, and only 50 of them are cultivated for home gardening. They attract gardeners with abundant flowering and easy care. Pink, blue, purple and other shades of clematis delight the eye with their abundant flowering from the very beginning of summer until the end of September (see clematis, photo is presented).

Simple types and terry ones with a variety of combinations of shades and shapes can be used instead of a fence, they will colorfully decorate your terrace.

Growing clematis with is slightly different from growing large-flowered species. These climbing shrubs and shrubs, with proper care, bloom for a long time and profusely. Those that have small diameter flowers thrive well in loose soil provided they are watered regularly in the first year. Clematis species with large flowers need reverent care for them. Originally from the subtropics, they cannot stand drought, love regular watering, but are light-loving.

In order for clematis to bloom for a long time and intensively, you need to grow a wide bush, and the more shoots that grow out of it in the spring, the more flowers there will be on the plant.

How to start growing clematis

Successful cultivation clematis starts with right choice places. Therefore, the plant needs to be provided with a sunny, wind-protected place, but it should not be a sunny south side: overheating for clematis is as dangerous as prolonged drought. Clematis is a moisture-loving plant, so it must be watered regularly, then loosened, and the ground should also be mulched with sawdust or peat.

For the winter, they are pruned depending on the types of clematis. Small-flowered shoots are removed from the support and the shoots are laid in a ring, well covering from upcoming frosts.

Plants with large flowers are cut off above the soil itself, then in the spring the bush will sprout strong shoots that will bloom for a long time.

If you have purchased an annual small plant, it is better to plant it in the spring, when there are no more frosts, or in the middle of autumn, covering it with a small layer of fallen leaves for the winter. When planting, it is well watered with water, making holes around the planted plant.

Clematis soon take root and give the first shoots. At first it will be 3-4 shoots, but in the second or third year, with proper care, the bush will expand. Already in the first summer after planting, it can please the plant with the first flower, it is pinched off for the correct formation of the bush.

Successful cultivation of clematis is possible on fertile soil. Plants do not like too hard ground, so humus and sand are added to the soil. Shrubs should also be fertilized regularly: organic or mineral fertilizers 2 times a month.

Clematis grow fast. Depending on the species, they produce shoots from 1 to several meters. Therefore, they need to put supports, ladders almost immediately after the appearance of the first shoots in early spring.

Reproduction of clematis

In order to breed clematis, reproduction is possible by seeds, cuttings and layering. Seeds germinate for a long period - from 1 to 3 years. Therefore, the fact that the seeds do not grow, there is no reason to worry. It remains to wait. This option is more suitable for breeders.

Can be prepared from lignified stems, but not old ones. To do this, take the middle part of the stem, cut into several cuttings with 3-4 dormant buds. Rooted in peat, sand, fixing the cuttings at an angle. Cover with foil or jar. The soil around the cutting is regularly moistened.

The best way to propagate clematis is to propagate by layering. To do this, in the fall they take a long shoot, bend it over the ground and pinch it with a dart in several places, cover it with earth or pebbles for rooting. So leave until spring, covering the fallen leaves. In the spring, already rooted shoots are separated and transplanted to a permanent place.

In order for the flowers of this perennial to delight you every year, you need to understand that growing clematis requires constant proper care.

For a permanent place in open ground closed root clematis can be planted both in spring and autumn, and even throughout the summer.

Moreover, if you purchased clematis long before planting in the ground, they can still grow in your greenhouse or on the windowsill, waiting for warmer weather.

If you have open root clematis, then the best planting time is in April - early May, while the buds have not yet begun to grow or have just begun to swell. At spring planting it is very important not to be late with the deadlines, since clematis is a plant with an early start of vegetation. With a late planting, the life rhythm of clematis may be disturbed, and the seedlings will take root worse in the first year, they will not gain strength for wintering.

If your clematis are in the room before planting, then you will have to plant them in open ground a little later, when the threat of spring frosts has passed.

Planting clematis in autumn has its small features. In order for this plant to take root well, it is advisable to plant it from late August to early October. It is during this period, at the optimum temperature of air and soil, that clematis manages to take root in a new place before the onset of frost. The clematis planting site must be insulated for the winter with a layer of dry fallen leaves, and covered with lutrasil or other covering material on top of them.

First of all, you need to think where to plant clematis.

Clematis are very fond of sunny places , therefore, it is better not to plant them in the shade, otherwise you will not wait for flowering. But you should not allow the clematis root system to overheat!

The second enemy of clematis is the wind. In open areas where the wind is constantly blowing, it is also not suitable for clematis. A strong wind very often breaks the creeper shoots, especially young ones, and plucks the flowers.

Places where water flows from the roof are also not suitable for clematis. If you still want to plant clematis under the roof slope, step back from the wall at least half a meter. This must be done so that the clematis roots are not constantly in the water, otherwise they may rot.

For the same reason low-lying places are not suitable. When choosing a low-lying area, you will have to work hard to organize a good outflow of water from the bush.

And you will also have to break through grooves with a slope to drain water.

Places where the groundwater level is high, high drainage is needed, and also have to break through grooves with a slope to drain water. It can be a metal pole, a pipe, a chain-link mesh, rolled up, or, conversely, unfolded in the form of an arch. Beautifully look with clematis wooden pergola lattices, as well as durable nylon nets with a large cell. The support must be placed in advance so as not to subsequently damage the delicate roots of clematis.

After you have decided on the landing site for clematis and installed the support, you need prepare a landing hole.

They can grow in the same place for a very long time - up to 25 years, so the landing pit must be thoroughly prepared. Under one plant, you need a seat of at least 60x60x60 cm, if you are planning a group planting of clematis, then it is better to dig a continuous trench 60 cm deep and wide. broken bricks or expanded clay.

Clematis prefer to grow in highly nutritious, structural, breathable, alkaline soil with low water tables.
If your garden soil does not meet this standard, then you need to do it yourself.

Remove three-quarters of the earth dug out of the pit, and the remaining quarter of the excavated earth must be cleared of weeds, mixed with humus or rotted manure, sand, peat (1:1:1:1). Depending on what kind of soil you have, you simply add the missing components: if it is loam, add sand, peat, humus; if sandy soil - add black soil, peat, humus; etc.

To the finished earth mixture you need to add liter jar ash and 100 g of complex mineral fertilizer. Clematis does not like acidic soils, therefore, if your soil is acidic in your area, be sure to add 50-100 g of slaked lime to the earthen mixture.

The next step is directly planting clematis. The prepared pit with drainage should be filled with about half the finished soil mixture. Do not rush to straighten the earthen mixture in the hole, let it remain a mound. Place clematis on the top of this mound, spread all its roots down along the sides of the mound. Then, holding the clematis with one hand, pour the remaining earth mixture to the roots with the other. It is better to sprinkle the root neck with sand. This can protect the clematis from rotting, as the sand does not retain water.

Clematis should be planted deep so that later a powerful bush develops from it. It must be borne in mind: the larger the clematis seedling, the deeper the planting should be. Young one- or two-year-old seedlings are buried by about 6-12 cm along with the lower pair of leaves, older clematis bushes - by 12-20 cm. This will help protect them from freezing in the winter, from overheating in the summer heat, and will contribute to the formation of new powerful escapes. The distance between clematis in a group planting should be about 1-1.5 m.

Immediately after planting, clematis should be watered abundantly, shaded from the bright sun, and the surface of the earth around the planted plant should be mulched with peat.

Clematis care after planting is as follows:

- Water, but do not fill the clematis;
- Loosen and weed the soil around it;
- In the first year after planting, clematis does not need to be fed.

At the foot of the clematis, be sure to plant some flowers, such as marigolds or any other, to shade the soil around the clematis and prevent the root system from overheating. By doing this, you will render an invaluable service to clematis, and the landing site will immediately turn into a mini-flower garden.

In the first year of planting, all the resulting buds on clematis must be cut off. to allow the root system to develop. In wet and cold weather, septoria can appear on clematis leaves. In this case, it is necessary to immediately carry out the treatment with fungicides so as not to weaken the plant.

If only one shoot grows in the first year of planting clematis, then it pinch the top to cause side branches to grow on the vine. After some time, pinching can be repeated again not only on the central, but also on the side shoots. As the clematis grows, you need to tie it up.

Image copyright flickr.com: Eric Hunt., annkelliott, tonrulkens, George Dixon

Clematis (lat. Clematis), or clematis, or vine- a genus of the buttercup family, is a woody plant or herbaceous perennial, common in the temperate and subtropical zones of the Northern Hemisphere. There are about 300 species in total, and they are sometimes very different from each other. Greek word"klema" once meant any climbing plant. In home floriculture, it is clematis-lianas that are most often used. Clematis is said to be a plant that can replace an entire garden.

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Planting and caring for clematis (in brief)

• Landing: sowing for seedlings is carried out from December to March, depending on the size of the seeds. Seedlings are planted in autumn or spring.
• Bloom: depending on the variety and species from April to October.
• Lighting: bright sun, light shade.
• The soil: loose, rich in humus, sandy or loamy, with a pH value from slightly alkaline to slightly acidic.
• Watering: once a week, consumption depends on age: from 10 to 40 liters for each bush. In the dry season - 2-3 times a week.
• Top dressing: during the growth period - nitrogen fertilizers, during the budding period - potash, after flowering - phosphorus. Do not feed during flowering.
• Garter: required. The supports must be very strong.
• Pruning: regular, mandatory, timing and intensity depend on which group the plant belongs to.
• Reproduction: seed and vegetative - dividing the bush, layering, pinning shoots.
• Pests: gall and leaf nematodes.
• Diseases: verticillium wilt, gray mold, rust, powdery mildew, ascochitosis and sometimes viral yellow mosaic.

Read more about growing clematis below.

Clematis flowers - description

Types of clematis are very different from each other. There are semi-shrubs, shrubs, herbaceous perennials among them, but most of the species belong to the group of vines. Their root system is of two types: taproot (plants of this group are poorly transplanted) and fibrous. shoots current year in clematis thin, in herbaceous species these shoots are green and rounded, in woody species they are faceted. Such shoots develop from the above-ground buds of old shoots or from the underground part of clematis. The leaves of clematis are simple or compound (consisting of three, five or seven leaflets), paired, usually green, but in some species purple.

Bisexual clematis flowers are single or collected in inflorescences of various forms (semi-umbrella, shield, panicle). Petals (in fact, these are sepals) have a different number: from four to eight, and in terry forms - up to seventy. At simple forms in the center of the flower there are many stamens and pistils, which makes the middle look like a hairy spider, often with a contrasting color.

In general, the color range of clematis is very wide: from pale pink to dark red, from light blue to velvet blue and, of course, there are white and yellow clematis. Each flower lives for two to three weeks, many varieties of clematis exude an aroma reminiscent of primrose, jasmine or almonds. The fruits of clematis are numerous achenes.

Growing clematis from seeds

Sowing seeds

In the huge variety of species and varieties of clematis for gardeners, there is a temptation to do the selection yourself. For those who are interested in growing clematis from seeds, we are ready to provide necessary information about this process.

According to the size of the seeds and the duration of their germination Clematis are divided into three groups:

• Clematis with large seeds that germinate for a very long time and unevenly - from one and a half to eight months, or even longer (clematis Durand, Jacqueman, purple, woolly, etc.);
• Clematis, the seeds of which are of medium size and germinate within one and a half to six months (clematis whole-leaved, Manchurian, six-petal, Douglas, Chinese, etc.);
• Clematis with small seeds, germinating both quickly and amicably - from two weeks to four months maximum (Tangut clematis, vine-leaved, etc.).

In the photo: Clematis seeds

Clematis seeds harvested this year germinate best, but if the seed material is stored in paper bags at a temperature of 18-23 ºC, it will be suitable for germination for four years. According to the time of sowing, the terms are as follows: small seeds are sown in March-April, medium - after new year holidays, and large ones - immediately after harvest, in autumn or early winter.

At the end of summer, dark gray necrosis may appear on the leaves and shoots, making them velvety and changing their color. In the middle of summer, clematis can get sick ascotichosis causing necrosis irregular shape on the leaves, or cylindrosporiosis, "decorating" the leaves with bright yellow spots. Preparations containing copper are effective against all these diseases - 1% solution of copper sulphate, for example.

On the picture:

To viral diseases clematis is resistant, but sucking pests can infect the plant with a yellow mosaic of leaves, against which there are no drugs yet, so diseased plants will have to be destroyed. In the future, do not plant clematis next to plants that are easily affected by mosaics - hosta, sweet pea, delphinium, aquilegia, phlox and peony. Sometimes clematis suffer from gall or leaf nematodes. When removing rotten specimens, look at the condition of the roots of the plants, and if you find nodules on the roots, do not plant clematis in this area for several years.

Pruning clematis

Pruning of clematis is carried out during the growth of the plant, as necessary, to extend the flowering period, and for the winter. If you remember, there are three groups of clematis:

• The first group of clematis (group A). In this group, flowers form on last year's shoots, so only weak shoots are pruned. Do this after flowering in June. Before winter, clematis are highly spud;
• The second group of clematis (group B) blooms both on last year's shoots and on shoots of the current year. Pruning is done at a level of 0.5-1 m, leaving 2-5 pairs of buds, and weak shoots are cut to the ground. The vine is removed from the support, folded and carefully laid at the roots;
• The third group of clematis (group C) forms inflorescences only on young shoots of the current year, clematis of this group are pruned several times during the growing season. In autumn, all shoots are cut to ground level or slightly higher.

Clematis after flowering

When deep autumn comes, you need to think about how your clematis will live in winter. In dry weather, under the base of any clematis in the center of the bush, on the eve of winter, pour out a bucket of humus, after removing all the leaves and treating the neck of the plant with a two percent solution of copper sulphate. Then you need to spud clematis to a height of 10-15 cm with sand and ash (250 g of ash per bucket of sand). They cover the clematis that need it in a dry way: the shoots are bent or twisted and laid on the base, covered with dry leaves (spruce branches, even crushed polystyrene is used), then covered with a wooden box so that there is air around the plant, roofing felt, roofing felt or another waterproof material, which is pressed down in the corners with stones or bricks so as not to be blown away by the wind, and all this is covered from above with an earthen or peat layer of 20-25 cm.

In the spring, the ground and the film are first removed, and the spruce branches or leaves are removed only when the threat of frost has passed. Shoots are carefully lifted, straightened and distributed on supports.

Types and varieties of clematis

There are several classifications of clematis: the division of clematis into groups by M.A. Beskaravainaya, taking into account the origin of the species on the maternal line, the taxonomic system of M. Tamura, the classifications of A. Raider, L. Bailey, V. Matthews and others. Lovers and beginners prefer to use the simplest classification of clematis according to the size of their flowers: large-flowered clematis, medium-flowered clematis and small-flowered clematis.

But the following international classification is most convenient for flower growers:

• Clematis, the flowers of which bloom on last year's shoots (group A);
• Clematis blooming on both last year's shoots and current year's shoots (group B);
• Clematis that bloom only on current year's shoots (Group C).

Let's look at these groups and the varieties of clematis that belong to them.

Group one A:

Clematis alpine (Clematis alpina)

Liana, reaching a height of 3 m, her leaves are leathery, large, small tubular blue flowers bloom in August. It is sometimes used as a border plant. Varieties:

• Clematis Artagena Franchi- height 2-2.4 m, flowers are bell-shaped, blue with a white center, pointing down. winter-hardy;
• Clematis Albina Plena- white clematis, terry, tall (up to 2.8 m), blooms from May to June;
• Clematis Pamela Jackman- length of shoots 2-3 m, flowers purple-blue, drooping, length - 6-7 cm, blooms from April to June, in the second half of summer it blooms a second time, but not so abundantly.

In the photo: Alpine clematis (Clematis alpina) Albina Plena

In the photo: Alpine Clematis (Clematis alpina) Artagena Franchi

In the photo: Alpine Clematis (Clematis alpina) Pamela Jackman

Clematis flowery (Clematis florida)

High woody liana, more than 3 m high, single flowers, large, fragrant, mostly light shades. There are bicolor varieties of clematis. Popular varieties:

• Clematis Vyvyan Pennell- height up to 3.5 m, lilac double flowers 12-15 cm in diameter;
• Clematis Kid- height - 1 m, cruciform flowers light purple with a blue tint with a diameter of 10-14 cm;
• Clematis Joan of Arc- pure white fragrant double flowers of compact size, which seem large against the background of a small plant. The plant is frost-resistant, not afraid of either the sun or shade, almost does not get sick.

In the photo: Flowery clematis (Clematis florida) Jeanne d'Arc

In the photo: Flowery clematis (Clematis florida) Vyvyan Pennell

Clematis mountain (Clematis montana)

Giant liana up to 9 m tall, leaves are small, sharp, collected in bunches of five flowers on long pedicels - white, 4-5 cm in diameter, yellow stamens. Dislikes cold winters. Varieties:

• Clematis Rubens- a fast-growing vine up to 6 m long, woody, trifoliate leaves, pointed, oval, with a bronze sheen. Opened flowers of red-pink color up to 6 cm in diameter are collected in 3-5 pieces. Blooms profusely, loves the sun;
• Clematis Montana Grandiflora- the length of the shoots of this creeper is 5 m, the trifoliate leaves are arranged in bunches, the flowers are medium in size - up to 5 cm, open, with a delicate smell, collected in bunches of several pieces, the sepals are white or white-pink, the anthers are light yellow. This variety blooms in May-June.

In the photo: Mountain Clematis (Clematis montana) Grandiflora

In the photo: Clematis mountain (Clematis montana) Rubens

Group two B:

Woolly clematis (Clematis lanuginosa)

Shrub liana up to 2.5 m long, beautiful single flowers up to 20 cm in diameter in white, blue and pink hues. The first time it blooms on last year's shoots in May-June, the second - at the end of summer, but already on new shoots. Popular varieties:

• Clematis Madame le Cultre- shoots 2.5-3 m long, leaves simple or trifoliate, lobed or entire. Flowers with a diameter of 14-20 cm, sepals are white, anthers are light, bloom in July. Winter hardiness is average;
• Clematis Hybrida Sieboldii- liana, shoots up to 3 m long, flowers 16 cm in diameter: light lilac sepals with a dark edge, red-brown anthers. Blooms from July to September;
• Clematis Lawsoniana- shrub liana, shoots up to three meters long, sometimes simple leaves, often trifoliate, oval leaves. The buds look up, fragrant flowers up to 18 cm in diameter, sepals are lilac-violet with a dark stripe in the middle, anthers are purple. It blooms in May-June, sometimes repeated, but weaker flowering in autumn is possible.

In the photo: Woolly clematis (Clematis lanuginosa) Hybrida Sieboldii

In the photo: Woolly clematis (Clematis lanuginosa) Lawsoniana

In the photo: Woolly clematis (Clematis lanuginosa) Madame le culture

Clematis spreading (Clematis patens)

Shrub liana, whose shoots reach a length of 3.5 m, flowers are large, up to 15 cm in diameter or more, of various shades from white to dark blue, there are two-color varieties. The shape of the flowers are simple, star-shaped or double. It blooms in May-June on old shoots, may re-bloom in autumn on young shoots. All varieties are afraid of severe cold.

• Clematis Joan Pikton- length of shoots up to 3 m, very large flowers (up to 22 cm) light lilac with a purple tint with a light stripe in the center of the petal. The edges of the petals are wavy. Anthers red. Blooms very profusely;
• Clematis Multi Blue- liana up to 2.5 m high, blue-violet double flowers 14 cm in diameter are located along the shoot in several tiers. Blooms in June-August.

In the photo: Clematis spreading (Clematis patens) Joan Pikton

In the photo: Clematis spreading (Clematis patens) Multi Blue

Group three C:

Clematis of the Jackman group (Clematis jackmanii)

These are clematis obtained by crossing clematis Lanuginoz with clematis Vititsella, which are mostly large shrub vines with shoots up to 4-6 meters long and a well-developed root system. Their leaves are pinnately compound, consisting of 3-5 large leaves, the buds are elongated, the flowers are single or collected in 3 pieces, open, directed to the side and up, odorless, of all possible shades except white. In diameter, the flowers of this group reach 20 cm, although there are varieties in which flowers are only 8 cm in diameter. The varieties of this group bloom profusely and for a long time on the shoots of this year, which are cut to ground level in winter or leave a shoot with three to five pairs of buds. Popular varieties:

• Clematis Rouge Cardinal- creeper with a shoot length of 2-2.5 m with trifoliate leaves, flowers - open, up to 15 cm in diameter, cruciform. Velvety sepals dark purple, anthers light purple. Blooms in July-September. Moderately winter hardy. Clematis "Rouge Cardinal" - the owner of many floricultural awards;
• Clematis Star of India- shrub liana with shoots up to 3 m long. Compound leaves consist of 3-5 entire or lobed oval-pointed leaflets. The flowers are open, up to 15 cm in diameter, diamond-shaped sepals are juicy purple with a purple stripe along the middle, anthers are light. It blooms very abundantly in the second half of summer;
• Clematis Gipsy Queen- shrub liana, the shoots of which reach 3.5 m. There are about 15 shoots in the bush. The leaves are complex, the buds are raised up, the flowers are open, up to 15 cm in diameter, the sepals are wide, velvety, bright purple, they almost do not fade in the sun, the anthers are maroon, the pollen is also colored. It blooms very profusely from the second half of summer until frost. Not afraid of shadows, up to 20 flowers on each shoot. The variety is resistant to fungal diseases;
• clematis bella- shoots only up to 2 m long, star-shaped flowers 10-15 cm in diameter, waxy, first light yellow, then become snow-white. The variety is winter-hardy, resistant to fungi. Blooms from July to September.

In the photo: Clematis Jackman (Clematis jackmanii) Bella

In the photo: Clematis Jackman (Clematis jackmanii) Gipsy Queen

In the photo: Clematis Jackman (Clematis jackmanii) Rouge Cardinal

In the photo: Clematis jackmanii (Clematis jackmanii) Star of India

Purple Clematis (Clematis viticella)

The name itself suggests that this species is represented by purple flowers of different intensities and shades. The flowers of representatives of this species are simple, sometimes drooping, ranging in size from 10 to 20 cm in diameter. The shoots of these vines reach 3.5 m in length, and they grow quickly. Clematis of this species bloom from June to September. Here are some varieties of this species:

• Clematis Ville de Lyon- shrub liana, dark brown shoots up to 3.5 m long, in a bush there are up to 15 such shoots. The leaves are compound, consist of 3-5 whole or lobed leaves, which turn yellow and dry at the base of the shoots. Buds look up, open flowers 10-15 cm in diameter, long peduncles. Wide sepals of carmine-red color fade in the summer in the sun, anthers are bright yellow. It blooms profusely, up to 15 flowers on each shoot;
• Clematis Viola- the shoots of this creeper reach a length of 2.5 m, the leaves are trifoliate, it blooms profusely and for a long time from July to October with disc-shaped open, propeller-like flowers 10-14 cm in diameter. Sepals dark purple with purple veins, anthers pale yellow;
• Clematis Polish Spirit- shoots of this creeper up to 4 m long, strewn with lilac-lilac flowers with a diameter of 8 cm from the end of June until the coldest weather.

In the photo: Purple Clematis (Clematis viticella) Polish Spirit

In the photo: Purple clematis (Clematis viticella) Ville de Lyon

In the photo: Purple clematis (Clematis viticella) Viola

Whole leaf clematis (Clematis integrifolia)

Type of climbing shrubs that do not cling to a support. The height of these plants is not higher than 2.5 m, drooping bell-shaped flowers of red, pink, purple, blue and shades of blue. Popular varieties:

• Clematis Durandii (Clematis Duran)- one of the most beautiful large-flowered species of hybrid origin. Climbing shrub only up to 2 m high, has brown shoots, of which there are up to fifteen in a bush. The leaves are oval, simple, whole, dense, not damaged by the sun. The flowers are drooping, up to 12 cm in diameter, the sepals are bright purple or juicy blue, fading in the sun, the anthers are pale yellow. On each shoot up to 15 flowers. This variety blooms from July to October;
• clematis Varava- shoots no longer than 2.5 m, star-shaped flowers with a diameter of 12-16 cm, light purple on the inside with a burgundy stripe along the petal, pale purple on the outside with an even lighter middle stripe. Blooms until frost;
• clematis memory of the heart- semi-shrub with shoots 1-2 m long, drooping bell-shaped flowers 5-9 cm in diameter, blooms profusely from July to frost (October).

Clematis burning, or small-flowered (Clematis flammula)

- creeper with small white fragrant flowers, grows very quickly, reaching a length of shoots up to 5 m, the leaves are complex, dark green, pinnate, cruciform flowers are collected in inflorescences. Blooms in July-August.

Tangut Clematis (Clematis tangutica)

- fast-growing tall liana, blooming with medium-sized yellow bell-shaped flowers. Gives seeds, does not require shelter in the cold season.

In the photo: Clematis whole-leaved Duran (Clematis integrifolia)

In the photo: Clematis whole-leaved Memory of the heart (Clematis integrifolia)

In the photo: Clematis tangutica (Clematis tangutica) Back

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After this article, they usually read

Clematis cultivation in Europe began in the 16th century. These flowers first came to the territory of Russia as greenhouses. Gradually, breeders began to develop winter-hardy varieties. Since the middle of the last century, a large number of winter-hardy varieties with beautiful flowers have appeared.

Clematis: description

Clematis belongs to the buttercup family. Its name in Greek means curly. Most species of this plant actually curl around any support with the help of leaf petioles. The main popular name is clematis. In total, there are about 3 hundred species of clematis.

Clematis is herbaceous, semi-shrubs and leaf climbers.

The root system of most species is fibrous. But there is also a rod, like in the Tangut and serrated. She doesn't like transplants. Shoots are thin, brown, 4-6-sided. Leaves grow in pairs, each has 3-5-7 leaflets. Flowers are most often collected in inflorescence corymbs.

There are panicles and semi-umbrellas. 4-8 sepals serve as petals. They can be almost any color. There are varieties with double flowers. Their flowering period is up to 3 weeks, while the usual one is 2 weeks. The fruits are achenes collected in fluffy heads.

All clematis can be divided into groups according to the principle of flower formation:

Jacqueman - branches reach 4 m. They are decorated with large blue, purple and purple flowers. They don't smell. Flower buds form only on young vines. Blooms for a long period.

Vititsella is a relatively low bush, up to 3.5 m. Young creepers bloom. The flowers are pink shades, with a beautiful velvet sheen.

Lanuginoza - even lower, about 2 m. bush with thin branches. Light flowers are located on the lashes of last year.

When clematis begins to bloom after planting

Patens - strong long creepers. Flowers reach 18 cm, of different colors, are formed on last year's branches. There are varieties with double flowers.

Florida - reaches a height of 3 m. Flowers are often light in color, located on old lashes.

Integrifolia - shrubs. They grow to 1.5 m. The original bell-shaped flowers, reaching a size of 12 cm, bloom on the shoots of this year.

Clematis varieties are divided according to the size of the flowers. Large-flowered are considered to be more than 8 cm in diameter. Small-flowered - up to 8 cm. small size flower does not mean less decorative plants. Usually small-flowered clematis are very decorative, grow quickly, bloom for a long time (from 2 weeks to 4 months). Many of them have a pleasant aroma:

Burning

Straight

Paniculate

Armanda

Clematis David

There are creeping clematis, the height of which does not exceed 8 cm (Marmoraria variety), undersized - up to 1 m, tall ones reach 5 m or more.

Growing conditions

Clematis love sunlight. In the shade, the number of flowers is significantly reduced. You can plant it in partially shaded areas. Do not grow clematis in drafts, where strong winds often blow. He will break and confuse his whips, cut off flowers.

Clematis are demanding on soil moisture, as they do not tolerate drought well.

But waterlogging is even more detrimental to them. If from a lack of moisture they lose their decorative properties, then an excess leads to rotting of the roots of the plant. Therefore, they cannot be planted in places where groundwater approaches the soil surface at a distance of less than 1.2 m. If there are no other options, then the soil is drained by laying grooves to drain water.

The soil for growing should be rich in nutrients, loose, sandy or loamy, well breathable. The reaction is slightly acidic, neutral or slightly alkaline. You can not plant clematis in the lowlands and under the slopes of the roofs, where water constantly runs off. You need to retreat about a meter from the place where the water enters. With proper care, clematis grows in one place for up to 25 years.

Breeds:

Planting clematis

Plants with an open root system are planted in April-May. Their kidneys begin to develop very early. Therefore, you need to land before they grow. Otherwise, the plant may weaken and survive the transplant poorly. When planting clematis in the fall, give it time to root. You can start planting in August. Usually take root and planted in September. They are planted in the same way as in spring, but closer to winter they are insulated with covering materials.

Clematis with a closed root system (in special pots for transportation) can be planted in open ground all summer. They can wait for the appropriate weather if purchased too early.

Landing rules:

For planting plants, they dig a hole measuring 60x60x60 cm. It is filled with specially prepared soil for further cultivation.

The upper fertile layer is mixed with 2 buckets of humus, a bucket of sand. Add 200 g of complex mineral fertilizers. Analyzing the quality of the soil, they add bone meal or lime (acid), peat, clay.

If more than one bush is planted in a row, then they usually dig one hole. Its bottom is covered with a layer of drainage: brick, gravel, expanded clay. The distance between the bushes should be at least 1 m.

Then pour the prepared soil so that it fills the hole to half. A mound is formed on top.

Immerse the seedling in the hole. Level the roots down so that they are directed in all directions from the mound evenly.

Carefully sprinkle with soil, lightly compacting it with your hands.

The root neck is sprinkled with sand, which will protect it from decay.

Abundantly watered. When water is absorbed into the soil, it is loosened.

The soil around the planted bushes is mulched with a thick layer of grass, which is constantly replenished.

You can plant annuals near the bushes, which will protect the root from overheating in the summer. The depth of immersion of a seedling depends on its age and size. Two-year-olds and one-year-old jigs are immersed by 10 cm, older plants by 20 cm. But to form a subsequently powerful bush, several buds are also immersed, from which young shoots will form.

support for clematis

Great value to create beautiful bush has a support. It must be strong, because in a few years it will have to hold a bush of a large mass. You can install it immediately or use a temporary one. But such supports justify themselves only for bushes in which flowers form on young lashes. After flowering, they are cut short, and it becomes possible to replace the support.

For varieties that bloom on last year's stems, it would be correct to set a constant. After all, the stems of clematis so firmly cover everything that comes across them along the way that it can be very difficult to separate them.

When installing a support, they take into account that it should be beautiful, the size should correspond to the size of the ground part of the bush.

Then the plant will be able to show its best side. With a small support, it will look like a cocoon with flowers straying to one side. The support frame is best made of metal. And as guides, you can take wire, rope. It is better to tie up the lignified parts of the stems. When placing young creepers, take into account that more flowers grow on horizontal ones.

Clematis care

Clematis - pretty undemanding plants. In dry weather, they are watered. Water is not poured onto the root, but it is made sure that it spreads around the bush, under the mulch. It is better to use warm water. Under one young bush, 1-2 buckets are poured at a time, under an adult - up to 4 buckets.

The soil after watering, if it is not covered with mulch, is loosened and weeds are removed.

Almost all clematis are sent to supports only until such time as they themselves begin to do this. The whips are tied up to show them the direction. Varieties of the Intergrifolia group are constantly tied up, because they do not have antennae that allow them to cling to the support. Having planted a new clematis, the gardener wants to see it bloom as soon as possible. But there is no need to rush. If flower buds start in the year of planting, they should be removed without regret. This will allow the root to become stronger.

Sometimes young clematis has only one stem. To quickly form side shoots, pinch the top of the central one. During the season, this can be repeated several times with all the shoots.

Feeding clematis:

In order for clematis to bloom as long and luxuriantly as possible, its bushes need to be fed regularly. starting from 2 years of age.

Once a month, you need to water them with a solution of chicken manure or mullein. On a bucket of water take 1 liter of solution, which has previously fermented for 10 days.

You can use complex mineral fertilizer. Better to use alternately different types fertilizers.

Do not fertilize only during the flowering period. In August they stop applying nitrogen.

Once every 4 weeks watered with boric acid or potassium permanganate.

Foliar top dressing of clematis is carried out, spraying with a solution of urea.

For the 2-3rd year, liquid top dressing is carried out 2 times a month.

At the beginning or end of the growing season, a bucket of humus mixed with a handful of wood ash is brought under the bush.

Diseases and pests of clematis

Plants are susceptible to gray rot, powdery mildew. In cloudy cold summers, clematis leaves can suffer from the fungal disease of septoria. Dark heels may appear on the leaves, inside which a gray center forms. So that the disease does not interfere with the development of the plant, it is treated with fungicides.

You can treat the soil before planting with a solution of foundationazole (0.1%). The soil under previously planted plants is treated, starting from the period of bud break, several times. About 3 liters of solution are used per bush.

A dangerous disease of clematis is infection with a nematode. This small worm infects various parts of the plant. Damage to the root system is especially dangerous. Most often, it leads to the death of the entire plant. The first signs of damage by leaf nematodes are a change in the shape of the leaves. They become ugly, thickened in some places. Then dark spots appear with a gray center.

To scare away pests, marigolds are planted near clematis bushes. mint, garlic.

When affected by root nematodes, the shape of the roots also changes, thickening galls appear on them. Nematodes destroy the vessels of the roots, which the plant feeds on. As a result, the roots die. But seeing their destruction is more difficult than leaf damage. When the plant shows signs of damage, it is usually impossible to save it. It is very difficult to fight the nematode. Her eggs remain in the ground for many years. You can destroy them by removing all the affected roots from the site. Then you need to carefully treat the soil with steam. It is difficult to do this at home. Each portion of the soil should be steamed for about an hour.

Therefore, you need to carefully monitor all the plants that fall on the site. At the slightest suspicion of infection with a nematode, they must be removed. The roots of plants must be healthy, of the correct form. Diseases can be prevented by following temperature regime soil around the root system. If it does not rise above 15 degrees, then the nematode does not develop. Therefore, it is mulched with peat. When using fresh manure, the soil temperature rises, which contributes to rapid reproduction nematodes.

Preparing clematis for winter

Clematis are quite frost-resistant plants. They are able to survive at -45°C. Overmoistening of the soil or night frosts can destroy them. At this time, the moisture that has fallen on the tillering center during the day freezes, expands and can tear it apart.

Therefore, the main task in preparing for winter is to isolate the base of the bush from moisture.

In autumn, the bush is cut, the leaves are removed from the rest. Circumcision is carried out differently for different groups of clematis. All clematis are conditionally divided into groups according to the method of pruning. But in fact, the plants in these groups differ in the way they form flowers:

In the first group, they are located on young shoots. Those of them that lay flower buds on young shoots are cut low, leaving several pairs of buds on each stem. Can be cut at ground level. These are representatives of the Vititsella, Zhakman, Integrifolia groups. Bushes prepared in this way are sprinkled with dry earth or peat. For each bush, 3 buckets are poured. The soil will freeze, be covered with snow, and the mound of earth will protect the roots from moisture. Preparation in wintering is carried out as late as possible, when the soil begins to freeze, and the temperature outside drops to -5 °.

In the second, first on last year's, closer to autumn - on the young. Clematis of the second group is cut no higher than a meter from the ground. In the summer, after last year's branches have faded, they are cut off.

In the third group - only on last year's vines. Plants of the Patens, Florida, Lanuginoza groups are pruned weakly, removing only the part of the vine on which the flowers were located. After all, on next year it is on these lashes that there will be flower buds. Therefore, first they build a mound of earth or peat. The rest of the lashes are carefully folded, laid on the ground. They cover with improvised materials: boards, spruce branches, roofing material. In winter, they make sure that this shelter is constantly covered with snow. In the spring, they first remove the shelter from the branches, and after the establishment of dry and warm weather, I remove the earth and peat.

The use of clematis

Clematis is used for landscaping gardens, parks, buildings. Wide selection colors and timing of flowering allows you to create a flowering conveyor from late summer to frost. The earliest ones begin to bloom from the end of May. Late - in September. In order to correctly select the sequence of varieties, the concept of the flowering coefficient is used. The higher it is, the more flowers the bush forms. In this case, the flowering part is located lower, closer to the ground.

Clematis is used as a dominant in the garden, as well as with other plants.

They decorate gazebos, buildings, columns. They can be used to create a background desired color. Groups are created from the clematis themselves, or combined with other plants: roses. rhododendrons.

For planting single landings use the most beautiful and long-flowering varieties with a high flowering rate. This is:

Margot Kostel

Carmencita

Madame Erouard André

Neodynamia

Victoria

Create hedges. backstage. For them, wind-resistant varieties are used. Use clematis to create rock gardens. To do this, plant varieties that grow without support and creep along the ground.

More information can be found in the video:

Rules for growing snapdragons in a summer cottage, read on our website.

You can find out how to care for petunias at home here.

The most favorable seasons for planting clematis are autumn and spring. Seedlings can go much worse during the engraftment period in the first year if the planting of the flower is delayed.

As soon as the buds begin to swell or have not even begun to grow, from about April or early May, you can safely plant clematis.

For proper planting of the plant, wide and deep enough pits for planting should be made - 60 cm each.

Learn the features of planting irises and decorate your site with them.

1. Plant transplant tolerance is excellent, which allows them to be planted on a simple bed to grow and strengthen, and after a year or two, plant them in permanent places.

2. Clematis seedlings are disinfected before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

The support should be no more than 2 cm in diameter. In general, in the process of growth, the vine needs a two- or even three-fold garter of shoots that have grown.

This is necessary so that the plant does not suffer from diseases and to reduce the risk of mechanical damage.

4. Active growth of only one stem is observed in large-leaved clematis species in the first year of planting. And in the year when the plant is planted, the top should be pinched off, so the lateral processes will begin to grow. The pinching procedure itself can be done again.

7. If the plant is planned to be planted against a wall, then the southwest or south side of the building will be the best side. The distance for good plant growth should be at least 50 cm from the wall. In no case should water from the roof fall on it.

Where you should not plant a liana plant called clematis:

where is deep penumbra or absolute shadow;

Close to buildings, it is also not advised to plant clematis.

How to care for clematis in spring

Luxurious and beautiful flowering is the result of proper watering.

During the first year of growth, the liana plant actively develops roots and, in total, about 3 shoots are added.

Therefore, in order to develop many dozens of clematis shoots and obtain a lush shrub with more than one hundred charming flowers, you need to properly and carefully take care of the plant for about 5-6 years. For this, flowers that grow in a single quantity are best cut off.

Already starting from the 3rd year of growth, clematis is gaining strength, many shoots begin to appear on it. The timing of clematis flowering can be well controlled through procedures such as pinching and pruning.

In addition to mineral top dressing, 1 cup of wood ash per one individual plant is also suitable. Another very good fertilizer is mullein (dung).

When the cold comes need to cover root system plants. but upon the onset of spring, it is not worth rushing to open clematis.

Such a precaution is connected with the fact that the vine is still afraid of intermittent frosts and the sun, which shines brightly, which can lead to kidney damage.

As soon as the spring frosts depart, you can safely remove the shelter from the plant.

The process of undressing the plant is best done in less sunny, better cloudy weather. It is even recommended to give them a little shade so that the clematis gets used to the sunlight gradually.

water the plant abundantly, but in no case do not flood!

Clematis planting, growing and care

Hi friends. I first saw this plant when I was walking around the city, the sight of huge purple "butterflies" attracted my attention, and I really wanted to know what kind of flowers these are so unusual. This was my first acquaintance with him, clematis seemed to me such a chic plant and I began to look for information about him, I was looking for how planting is carried out, what kind of care he needs and much more. I was also looking for where to buy it, at the moment when I saw the plant, it was a curiosity for our small town. So there was simply no one to ask for a cutting, since I had not seen such a plant with my friends. I had to buy. And while I was looking for clematis seedlings, I learned a lot about him.

Firstly, it turns out that clematis is on sale as annual seedlings and biennials. When buying, it is better to leave your choice on a two-year-old, but annuals are much cheaper. Also, these plants can be sold with an open root system, and with a closed one, which one to choose is up to you. For example, when choosing a clematis with an open system, you will have to stick to the planting time: spring or autumn and purchase this plant at that time. Of course, cases are different, for example, you bought seedlings when the cold came, then you can do it in two ways. The first is to dig up the roots in the garden, and plant them in a permanent place in the spring, or store them in a cool place, for example, in the basement.

When stored indoors, clematis roots should be sprinkled with something: sawdust, wet sand, or light earth. Indoors, clematis tend to germinate, so you will have to regularly pinch the sprouts, this action stops the growth of the week for 2. If it is warm in the basement, then the clematis begin to germinate very quickly and when transplanting clematis with sprouts into the garden, you will have to shade the plant at first with something until the plant acclimates.

When buying a clematis with a closed root system (in a container), planting can be done at any convenient time, of course, except for winter.

When you purchase clematis seedlings, choose a root with a small stem. I would like to warn here that if you are dealing with clematis for the first time, then it may seem to you that the stem has dried up, but in fact this is normal. Very often, plants are sold without a stem, one root system, it's also not scary, the main thing is that they have awakened buds, or small sprouts.

Planting clematis

Before planting clematis, and even before buying it, you need to decide on the place where it will grow and of course, you must take into account some requirements, without which you will not be able to successfully grow clematis. The rules are simple: the landing site should be bright, calm, the soil is light, easily breathable, nutritious. Before planting, the soil also needs to be fertilized. But if you plant a plant in a place where the soil is heavy, acidic and contains a lot of moisture, then do not expect success when growing clematis. And, I almost forgot to write, do not add fresh manure and sour peat to the kidney, the plant does not like this, but does not take it to the spirit. Also, when choosing a place for planting, choose a place where there is no closely spaced groundwater, as the roots, in contact with water, begin to rot.

If you are unlucky with the soil, and it is heavy, clayey, then before planting you will have to dig a large hole with a diameter of 60 by 60 and also to a depth of 60 cm. Put a drainage layer on the bottom of the hole (small bricks, crushed stone, etc. And the pit itself must be filled with fertile soil, which must be mixed with rotted humus and mineral fertilizers added (160 grams of superphosphate and 400 grams of dolomite flour, can be replaced with lime).From the pit, you also need to dig a small groove through which excess liquid will drain, sprinkle the groove itself with sand.Ideally, the landing pit is prepared a year before the planting of clematis, so that the earth settles, and the lime does its job (neutralizes the acidity of the soil).

Even before planting clematis, you need to install supports up to 2.5 meters. In no case do not plant plants near the walls of the house, because due to the extreme dryness of the earth, your plant will grow poorly, bloom, and may even die. In addition, during the rains, water will drain onto your flowers, which is absolutely unacceptable for clematis. But if you still want to plant a plant near the house, then install the support at a distance of 30 cm from the wall.

Clematis: planting and care

So, I hope you have prepared everything: you have chosen the right place, prepared a landing hole, installed a support, then congratulations, now you can proceed directly to planting clematis. First, carefully inspect the plant, if the root system is dry, then place them in water for several hours before planting. After that, dig a hole, at the bottom of which you need to make a small tubercle. You need to put a plant on this tubercle and straighten the root system and sprinkle it with earth, make sure that the root neck is also sprinkled with earth by 5 cm. If there is a stem, then it can also be covered with earth up to the first internode (in spring). After After your plant is planted, it needs to be watered with 1 bucket of water.

Clematis: care

Clematis care is not complicated, it consists of removing weeds (weeding), watering, loosening the soil and, of course, top dressing. Top dressing should be carried out 2 times a month. For top dressing, you can use any universal fertilizer. In the first year after planting, you can not worry about top dressing and do not carry them out. Every spring, the plant must be watered with lime mortar. If the soil where clematis grows is heavy, then after each rain it is necessary to sprinkle the lower shoots. wood ash, this will help prevent rotting and withering of the shoots. On light soils, such actions are not necessary.

After seven years, clematis flowers begin to shrink, as they no longer receive enough nutrients. The thing is that by this time the root system grows deep and the water does not reach their level during irrigation (especially if there is no rain). However, this is fixable. In order for the water to get as deep as possible, several pots with holes can be dug around the plant, into which you need to pour water during watering. Thus, water during irrigation will not spread over the surface of the earth, but will go deep into the root system.

It is also very important to protect the soil surface from overheating around the vine, as this does not affect the plant very well. In order to protect the soil from overheating, a layer of mulch (rotted manure, straw, etc.) must be placed around the plant. Or you can do it a little differently by planting other undersized flowers that you like around the plant, so you catch two birds with one stone: protect the clematis roots from overheating and create an unusual design in your garden. Or you can just plant lawn grass around the plant.

When growing clematis, it is also necessary to tie up young shoots, directing them in the right direction. Only this must be done very carefully, as young shoots are very fragile and break easily. If the weather is warm and the nights are just as warm, then the vine grows very quickly, in one night its shoot can grow by 5 cm or more.

A young seedling grows up to 5 shoots over the summer, although there are varieties that give 30 shoots per season.

Clematis care: pruning

Pruning is also an important part of the care when growing clematis. With pruning, you can give the plant an attractive appearance, regulate flowering. It is necessary to cut the plant only after the flowering period has passed, all weak shoots are completely removed, and only the upper part of the strong ones is cut off. Such pruning is carried out in those varieties of clematis, the shoots of which bloom the next year.

Clematis varieties that bloom the same year can be cut off completely in the fall before covering them, or in the spring, leaving a few buds.

There are varieties of clematis in which both old and young shoots bloom. Flowering in such varieties occurs in waves: first, last year's shoots bloom, and then young shoots begin to bloom. In such varieties, the old shoots are cut off completely after flowering, and in the fall, before shelter, the upper part of the young shoots is cut off. Accordingly, all weak and diseased shoots are also completely removed.

Reproduction of clematis

The main method of propagation of clematis is cuttings. In the spring, it is necessary to cut off part of the shoot with 2 nodes, completely removing the leaves. The cutting is placed in a container containing a mixture of peat and sand. You can sprinkle the lower tip of the cutting in Kornevin powder for a better formation of the root system.

After the cutting is placed in the substrate, it is covered with oilcloth to create greenhouse conditions, and for the constant preservation of moisture, since for rooting it is necessary to keep the earth moist.

Rooting from cuttings is never 100% effective, so it is important to root multiple cuttings. In the fall, the cuttings must be completely dug into the ground, covered, and the next year you will see the result, or rather, it turned out or failed to root the cutting.

But I like the propagation of clematis by layering: in the spring, dig last year's shoot to the ground (you can immediately place it in a container), and in the fall you will already have a young, separate plant.

For 6-7 years, clematis loses its decorative look, and during this period it can be updated: dig up the plant, only very carefully and divide it with a pruner.

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Clematis transplant

Clematis are very popular with gardeners. They decorate beautifully. personal plots, do not require a scrupulous attitude towards themselves, are not whimsical. But still, if you do not pay attention to the vine, it will not please with its flowering and beautiful appearance. This article will discuss when and why this plant needs to be transplanted, where it will be better for it, and how to do it correctly.

Why you need to transplant clematis

Creepers are quite problematic to tolerate transplants, the reason for this is the root system, which goes far underground. It is especially difficult for hybrids whose roots are pivotal. Gardeners strongly recommend planting clematis in a permanent place, but there are times when a transplant is simply necessary:

Initially, the landing site was incorrectly chosen.

The plant showed signs of the disease, it begins to fade.

The shrub has grown considerably and should be divided.

In rare cases, a transplant is required due to any construction work, or renovation of the garden design.

Choosing the right place

Clematis are tropical plants, they love a lot of sun and light, but they also feel quite comfortable in the shade. Strong overheating will not do them any good, and the area blown by the winds or drafts will completely destroy the vine.

Of great importance is the moisture content of the soil where the flower will live. He loves moisture very much, needs frequent watering, but an area with a high level of groundwater is not suitable for him. If there is no other option, you can get out of the situation by organizing a good drainage layer. To do this, use a crumb of brick or gravel.

Excessive moisture leads to putrefactive processes in the root system, as a result it dies. Also, when choosing a place, you need to pay attention to windiness. The snow cover protects the flowers from freezing, and it must not be blown away by snow.

Fertile soil is suitable for clematis, rather loose. It can be fertilized with humus. The best option is clay or loamy soil.

How is the transplant going?

If the place was initially chosen correctly, and there are no other reasons for transplanting, then clematis can grow in a permanent place for about 20-25 years. The root system in this case grows very much, and can reach 1.5 meters.

To transplant plants, a hole is dug in the form of a cube of impressive size, about 60 by 70 centimeters. The land that has been removed from the pit is well cleaned of weeds and their roots. It is mixed in:

• 2 or even 2.5 buckets of compost.
• 1.5 buckets of peat.
• 1.5 buckets of sand.
• 100-200 grams of ash.
• 100-200 grams of lime.
• 100-200 grams of fertilizers (superphosphate and complex).

If the ground is too light, it will need to be compacted. To do this, increase the amount of compost and humus. When, on the contrary, the earth is too dense, a drainage layer is laid.

Half of the prepared soil mixture is placed in a previously dug hole. In the center of the hole, it is recommended to immediately install a support. Only after that, the seedling is lowered into the hole and slowly added dropwise. Planting depth depends on the age of clematis:

• Seedlings that are no more than 2 years old deepen a maximum of 12 centimeters. The bottom pair of main buds should be covered with earth.
• Shrubs older than 2 years are deepened by 18 centimeters.

The further growth and development of the vine depends on how deep the deepening is. Mistakes made in this process will cause the plant to wilt, making it vulnerable. In addition, the tillering process will be disrupted.

When to start transplanting

Replanting clematis is allowed both in spring and autumn. It all depends on what kind of root system your clematis has:

• Liana with closed roots can be transplanted in autumn and winter.
• Liana with open roots should be transplanted in the spring, before bud formation.

If clematis transplantation is carried out in the fall - best timing October November. The procedure carried out earlier can be detrimental to a plant that is already under stress. The reason for this is hot weather, which makes it difficult to organize proper care. Optimal time when the air temperature drops.

When transplanting in the fall, the basal shoulder straps of the plant are removed.

On a note! In autumn, the landing pit with the vine is completely buried.

If transplantation is carried out in the spring, April will be the best period. It is at this time that the earth is already warm enough, and the plant will take root better. Landing in the spring does not entail any features. The processes are the same as for planting in the fall. Clematis after transplantation, both in spring and autumn, requires abundant watering and loosening of the soil.

Before planting, they carefully examine the root system of the vine so that it does not have damage and painful roots. It is allowed to transplant only those shrubs that have a strong, healthy and undamaged root system.

Support cannot be ignored. Unfortunately, this is the most common rookie mistake. Not infrequently, they use a strong rope as a support, which is absolutely impossible to do.

When transplanting an adult clematis, a strong support is chosen for it, since the lignified shoots are quite weighty. It must be wood or metal. Often use a nylon mesh with large cells. Liana is very beautifully woven along it.

The support can also be various buildings, for example, columns of buildings, walls of terraces and houses. Also, clematis can climb trees and large shrubs, which is a rather unusual composition.

Diseases and pests of clematis

Very often, diseases or pests are the cause of clematis transplantation. The plant is most susceptible to fungal diseases. They lead to decay. Almost always, the source of fungal bacteria is located in the soil, and affects, first of all, the root system.

The most common and dangerous disease of clematis is wilting. It would seem that a healthy flower suddenly begins to wither, the shoots dry quickly. The disease comes from the soil, so the roots of the plant deepen almost a meter, where the harmful spores are located. Basically, the disease manifests itself in early spring, due to the large amount of moisture. The carriers of this infection are weeds, which must be removed. As soon as the disease is detected, all affected shoots should be cut off, and the plant should be watered with foundation.

Another problem encountered in clematis is rust. It manifests itself in the form of red spots on the foliage and shoots. The plant quickly dries out, and the shoots lose their shape. Damaged parts of the flower must be cut off, and the entire bush is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Clematis can be affected by powdery mildew. The whole plant is covered with a whitish bloom. Clematis stops growing and does not bloom. Most often, powdery mildew attacks during a hot period. You can fight it with soap solution mixed with vitriol.

Snails and slugs are a big danger in spring. They suck the juice from the awakened plant. The plant is carefully inspected, collecting all pests. Further, they are destroyed.

The most dangerous diseases are those containing fungal spores. From them outside it is always possible to cure clematis. In some cases, the liana is dug up and burned, and it is better to plant nothing in its place for a few more years.

Preparing for the winter

If you do not organize the correct wintering of clematis, he may die or get sick. As you know, diseases weaken plants, and they become weak.

In order for the wintering to be successful, you should:

Before you arrange a shelter for a creeper, you need to cut off all the dried foliage.

The neck of the plant is treated with a solution of vitriol.

A bucket of humus is poured under the bush.

Mandatory procedure - hilling up to 10 centimeters. You can use ash and sand.

Shelter will protect the plant from excessive moisture, autumn, winter and spring it should be dry.

The shelter is made loose so that air enters there.

Material such as sawdust is not suitable for shelter. They have the ability to absorb moisture, which is very detrimental to clematis.

Shelter is removed with the onset of heat, when night frosts do not threaten the plant.

The shoots are carefully aligned and strengthened on a support.

Properly organized wintering will allow the plant to gain strength in the spring and fully bloom. It will not be susceptible to diseases that may require a transplant.

Good to know

Near clematis, it is better to plant undersized flowers, they will create a shadow for the root system, which will protect it from overheating.

The first year after planting the plant, it is recommended to cut the tied buds. Then clematis will direct all its forces to the formation of the root system.