How to choose a heated towel rail for the bathroom. Bathroom towel warmer: how to make the right choice

Electric or water heated towel rail - which is better to choose for the bathroom

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Summer is the time of seasonal shutdown of hot water. A good reason to think about repairing or replacing a heated towel rail. How to improve water and when does it make sense to invest in an electric one? Which device will last longer in Russian realities - domestic or imported? What can a towel warmer do besides drying towels? Let's sort it out in order.

Change, leave or remove altogether?
If you bought an apartment and are thinking about what to do with an old heated towel rail (and it may still be quite good), first look around. Are there signs of fungus on the walls and joints? Look behind the bathroom screen, look for black spots on the silicone. Ask the former tenants - were they cold in the bathroom? You can go around the neighbors on the riser, ask the same questions. If the bathroom is cold and there are pockets of mold in the corners (with properly functioning ventilation), then the room is not warming up well enough. There are several ways to solve this problem.

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First, you can replace the old heated towel rail with a larger model. However, the larger the area of \u200b\u200bthe pipes, the colder the water will go through the riser - the neighbors will certainly notice this.

If the bathroom is large, there is a reason not to change the water "snake", but to supplement it with an electric "ladder". This issue is best resolved before exterior finish rooms to neatly tuck the wires into the wall.

You can go around - make an electric floor heating. Then you won’t have to suffer the choice of which heated towel rail is better - water or electric. Especially if the bathroom is small - no more than 4-5 sq.m. Place towel rails at the bottom of the room and everything will dry naturally. It’s troublesome to install, energy-intensive to use, but it’s nice on the heels and you can implement different design concepts in the interior without being tied to a heated towel rail.

Important! Connect a water heated floor to a riser with hot water in apartment building prohibited by law. Such a redevelopment will never be agreed upon for you - accordingly, it will not be easy to sell an apartment. In addition, the outlet water temperature will inevitably decrease - which means that angry neighbors have every reason to complain about you to the management company, the prosecutor's office and Sportloto.

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In a private house, a regular radiator can replace a heated towel rail. The bar above the radiator will allow you to dry towels without any problems.

But you can only partially use the convector as a heated towel rail. Such a device can heat the bathroom (ingress protection class from IP24 and higher), but you can’t cover it with a towel. If you search, you can find special heated towel rail convectors - with a towel holder.

Welcome Complain
Feel free to involve the management company in solving your problem. Towel dryer (water) in Russian houses built into either a hot water system or a heating system. Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of May 6, 2011 N 354 defines the following temperature minimums for hot water at the point of analysis: at least 60 degrees for open district heating systems, at least 50 for closed ones (these data are in the Criminal Code). The current SanPiN 2.1.4.2496-09, regardless of the heat supply system used, sets the bar at 60 degrees (the temperature at which infectious pathogens die).

As for heating, the aforementioned decree obliges public utilities to heat our apartments to at least 18 degrees, and GOST R 51617-2000 establishes a specific minimum for the bathroom - 25 degrees per inner wall rooms.
If the water in the pipes is colder than it should be, you can demand a recalculation of the payment for heat and / or hot water and take measures to raise the temperature of the water - it can be enough to insulate the pipes in the basement, or cut off someone's water heated floor or a huge heated towel rail in return regular.

Which is better to choose a heated towel rail - water or electric?
Have you decided that you need a heated towel rail? Then let's decide which one will perform its tasks well in your bathroom.
Water, on average, is half the price of an electric counterpart and does not require additional expenses. An electric heated towel rail will inevitably increase electricity bills, but you can not be afraid of leaks, forget about pressure in pipes and turning off hot water. The range of electric dryers is huge, water dryers are somewhat more modest. There are, of course, water ones with glass inserts or "branches" from collectors, but they cost more than standard electric ones.

Another important point. Most often, a water heated towel rail is built into the hot water supply system and works for a whole year except for two. "preventive» weeks. But in some homes - usually with gas water heaters - the heated towel rail is part of the heating system and will be turned off for at least four months. In this case, you can also think about an electrical analogue. Especially if you're fighting mold.

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Which water heated towel rail to choose
When choosing a water heated towel rail, first of all, you need to look at the material from which it is made. The cheapest models are made of black steel, but can be painted "stainless steel". There is a lot of oxygen in the hot water circulating through our pipes - together they corrode the metal from the inside (therefore, ordinary pipes for hot water supply are galvanized as protection). In addition, the water is full of metal impurities that settle on the walls of the heated towel rail. Both are fatal for black steel. And the chrome coating quickly begins to peel off. Such models are suitable for private homes, where the water is cleaner and the pressure is weaker. In addition, there are dual-circuit models where water heats antifreeze - they will last longer.

Stainless steel is not afraid of corrosion, so it is preferable to black. In order not to buy a fake, look at the certificate (passport) of the heated towel rail before you part with the money. The material must be listed there. There are few disadvantages of stainless steel: too sharp threads on the joints (a good seal is required) and poor protection against the so-called "stray currents" - but there's nothing to be done about it.

Imported heated towel rails are often made of chrome-plated sanitary brass, adding anodized aluminum elements - they are also not afraid of rust, but are not always ready for Russian loads. In general, chrome-plated models look “more expensive” than polished ones, but they also cost the same. As for the quality of heating, the coating does not affect it.

Copper - too a good option and insanely fashionable. In terms of thermal conductivity, this material will give odds to the rest (well, you won’t make a radiator out of silver?). Cons: Expensive and bright view. Not every interior will fit.

Water heated towel rail: won't it leak?
A good heated towel rail must withstand not only the critical views of designers, but also the surprises of heating networks. Pay attention to what maximum pressure the model is designed for: according to GOST plumbing fixtures must work properly at a pressure of 6 atmospheres (bar) and withstand increased loads up to 10 atmospheres. It is better if both of these indicators for your heated towel rail are 5-10 atmospheres more, since a couple of times a year our pipes have to go through pressure testing, and at other times it happens that the water pressure “jumps" - especially on the first floor.

Russian heated towel rails usually take this moment into account, laying a margin of safety in the wall thickness, but imported ones are often not designed for our peak loads, as they are made for individual heating systems, that is, private houses (where the pressure rarely exceeds 4 atmospheres). However, in this case it is better to rely on numbers.

The weak point of many water models is the seam, so it is better to choose a seamless heated towel rail.

Water heated towel rail: withhow long will it last?
When thinking about which towel warmer to choose for the bathroom, immediately think about replacing it. The service life of a water heated towel rail depends on two factors: what it is made of and what it is attached to. Unlike the DHW system, the water in the heating system is not as saturated with oxygen. In addition, it is cleaned of rust and salts. Finally, the pressure in heating pipes is much less than in hot water pipes. Therefore, heated towel rails connected to the heating system last longer than their counterparts connected to hot water pipes. Both cheap black steel appliances and expensive imported brass ones (designed for connection to the heating system) can fail earlier than the declared service life - in two or three years - unable to cope with the loads of hot water supply. But copper and high-quality stainless steel will easily last a couple of decades, wherever you connect them.

Whatever bathroom towel warmer you choose, put a fine mechanical filter at the inlet: this will add a couple of years of life to it.

Can be painted?
The heated towel rail can be polished, chrome-plated or enameled. If shiny metal does not fit into the design concept of the bathroom, the heated towel rail can be painted. However, please note that, unlike the factory powder coating technology, to achieve a uniform color manually it won't be easy. Even an aerosol will leak somewhere. You can, for example, go to a car repair shop where body parts are painted - there, for a small fee, they will do it “like at a factory”.

Remember that each layer of paint reduces the thermal conductivity of the battery (and the heated towel rail is the same battery) by 5-10%, depending on the paint. Moreover, oil is the worst option for heating radiators, since even in one layer it reduces heat transfer by 8%. The best option - heat-resistant enamel. It is better to paint during preventive periods when the pipe is cold.

And so on…
Other important characteristics of a water heated towel rail are its shape, the distance between the inlet and outlet, the diameter of the connection thread. Traditionally, our choice is limited to "horseshoe", "snake" and "ladder", although an inquisitive buyer will find more interesting designer models. For drying towels, the “ladder” is more convenient than zigzags and staples, since the maximum area of \u200b\u200bpipes is involved. In addition, the heating area of such a model is larger. But the "snakes" that do not have joints are stronger. In addition, they are cheaper and, unlike the "ladder", do not require alteration of the riser when connected. Combined models are convenient to use - coils with shelves and rails.

Advice: When choosing the size of a water heated towel rail, keep in mind: a “stock” is not needed here. Water is better when it is not small and not large. In a small bathroom, a large heated towel rail will fight dampness well, but it will “dry out” all the oxygen.

Before going to the store, measure the distance between the entry and exit points of the water - so that you do not have to build up or cut the pipe for a new heated towel rail. Standard Models have a distance between the inlet and outlet in the range of 30-50 cm (this will be the height of the coil or the width of the ladder). Coils are available in widths from 40 to 100 cm. standard height ladder - from 40 to 120 cm.

Another feature of the Russian utility system is that heated towel rails play the role of a “compensation loop” in it, that is, they allow the riser to expand and contract with temperature changes.
Therefore, a water heated towel rail is better when it is made in the shape of a "snake".

When deciding which heated towel rail is better - imported or domestic, consider one more nuance. Imported models, as a rule, are produced with a pipe diameter when connecting 1/2 or 3/4 inches, and domestic ones - an inch or an inch and a quarter. So adapters may be needed. It is not recommended to install heated towel rails with an inlet diameter smaller than the pipe outlet diameter: at high pressure, the adapter may leak.

Installation
You need to buy a heated towel rail even before the start of repairs in the bathroom. The fact is that the wiring of pipes, including to a new heated towel rail, is carried out immediately after dismantling old finish and plumbing. Although you can directly connect the device both before laying the tiles - if the box is mounted - and after: if the connection points are not closed.

In the absence of experience in replacing and installing a heated towel rail, it is better not to try to save on plumbing services - especially if you need to install a non-standard model. You will have to meet with the master at least twice: first (better before going to the store) to discuss the model and installation nuances, and then directly when connecting.

To replace the heated towel rail is well prepared.

In advance, you need to submit an application to the management company so that for the duration of the work you will be blocked from the water supply in the riser (paid service). Warn neighbors about turning off the water - this is at least polite. Installation can take from 20 minutes to a couple of hours - depending on the model of the "dryer", the number of additional parts and the need for welding. The heated towel rail can be deployed as you like, but make sure that the connection to it goes without sharp bends (“humps”) - there may be an air lock.

To prevent plugs from forming in the heated towel rail, do not skimp on the air vent valve - it is also respectfully called the "Mayevsky faucet". Often a stopcock or automatic valve is installed at the connection point - and with the best of intentions: if the heated towel rail suddenly leaks, a flood can be prevented. However, it must be understood: the narrowing of the riser pipes and the installation of stopcocks are prohibited, as this can affect the pressure and circulation of water in the entire system.

When installing a water heated towel rail, it really makes sense to put shut-off valves at the inlet and outlet of water, but with the obligatory presence of a bypass - a safety jumper that ensures uninterrupted operation of the riser. Such a system will allow you to turn off the heated towel rail at any time, without blocking the water for the entire entrance. You can safely change the device, paint it, change the position without listening to the curses of the neighbors.

non-standard
If you are looking for a heated towel rail for a bathroom combined with a room, you can choose a model combined with a radiator.

Advice: According to the norms of the Russian Federation, it is impossible to increase the area of \u200b\u200bbathrooms at the expense of living rooms and kitchens - only non-residential premises. An exception is made for apartments on the ground floor and for two-level housing.

A heated towel rail is an indispensable thing in any bathroom, because. helps to eliminate excessive dampness, maintain hygiene and, of course, dry personal items and towels.

In case of replacement old plumbing to a new one and the need for finishing works in the bathroom, it makes sense to think about replacing the old heated towel rail with a new, more aesthetic one. Current manufacturers offer wide selection design and construction of these devices. They have increased durability and reliability combined with an elegant appearance.

Before purchasing a new bathroom serpentine, pay close attention to the material from which it is made and the design features.

Main types

Depending on the principle of operation, the following types of dryers are distinguished:

Working on water. They can be connected to a heating or hot water supply system. Beneficial in that they allow you to minimize the cost of public utilities;
Powered by electricity. Independent of heating and hot water supply and durable (no corrosion). Easily installed in a place convenient for you, the main thing is that there is a power source nearby.
Combined. They are a combination of the previous 2 types: during the heating season, hot water circulates around the circuit, and during periods without heating, it is possible to turn on the heating element for heating water.

According to the type of design, the devices are divided into:

Horizontal. They have the shape of a serpentine familiar to us;
Vertical. Made in the form of stairs with lintels.

Towel dryers are cast from black and stainless steels, as well as brass and copper. The latter, despite the high cost, have the longest service life. The material should be selected based on the specific situation.

So in case of connection to the system central heating seamless steel heated towel rails are more suitable. Their design is designed for pressure up to 8 bar and is not afraid of water hammer. In AGV systems, the pressure actually does not exceed 3 bar, therefore dryers made of chrome-plated brass with various variations shape and design.

It is worth noting the models with adjustable distance from the surface of the cladding to the dryer during installation. By setting a larger distance, you will ensure good air circulation and faster drying.

Most modern models are equipped with a Mayevsky crane, which allows you to ventilate the radiator circuit. Even in new designs, a bypass jumper is provided to equalize the pressure in the circuit. By installing an additional ball valve on the jumper, you can customize the operating temperature of the heated towel rail. It does not hurt to install valves on the inlet and outlet of the coil for quick cut-off from the main pipeline in case of dismantling or repair.

Do not forget to pay attention to the installation dimension between the water inlet and outlet holes. Especially when you plan to put a new radiator in place of the old one. Depending on the distance between the centers of the eyeliners, there are models with distances of 30, 35, 45, 50, 60, 80 cm.

Installation and connection to a heating or hot water system

Installing a heated towel rail is not very simple and requires certain knowledge and skills.

Installation rules and regulations

Requirements for connecting a heated towel rail to hot water supply systems are set out in SNiP 2-04-01-85.

The installation itself consists in connecting the inputs and outputs of the radiator circuit with the corresponding fittings of the heating riser or water main using plastic pipes. Pipes, couplings and bends are assembled together using a special liner.

To connect a new product, you can also use metal-plastic and copper pipes, but here it is worth considering a number of features. In half inch metal-plastic pipes the cross-sectional diameter is smaller than in plastic ones, and they do not withstand pressure drops well. Copper, despite their durability, will cost a substantial amount, and their welding requires special skills and precautions.

For the correct operation of the heated towel rail, a slight slope of the supply pipe in the direction of the hot water flow should be ensured. For the entire length of the eyeliner, it is 5-10 mm. The water flow must come from top point outline of the device to the bottom. To do this, the upper radiator bell is connected to the hot water supply riser.

The gap between the pipes of the circuit and the surface of the walls must be maintained. It is at least 35 mm for pipes with a cross section of up to 23 mm and 50 mm for pipes with a cross section of more than 23 mm. These distances are regulated by a pin screwed into the bracket, but there are also fixed mounts in which this distance cannot be changed. The structure supporting the piping should not be rigidly fixed in order to compensate for the thermal expansion of the pipes and not to load the sections of the wall supporting them.

Necessary materials

Before installation, check the completeness of your purchase, carefully read the design and connection diagram of the new device, study the instructions attached to it. Prepare in advance all the tools and materials necessary for work, these are:

directly heated towel rail;
brackets;
PVC pipes s desired diameter(26, 32 mm);
knife for cutting PVC pipes;
screwdriver;
impeller;
fasteners;
hammer, building level;
2 wrenches;
tow or other sealant;
2 solder union nuts;
soldering iron for PVC pipes;
2-3 ball valves,
pvc knee,
1 PVC elbow with internal thread,
2 tees (if you install a jumper),
1 socket with internal thread.

When the facing work in the bathroom is not completed, you can connect to the AGV using two water outlets. Americans for connecting the inlets and outlets of the radiator can be purely metal if metal threaded fittings have already been removed from the line.

First contact the company that services your heating and water supply networks with a request to turn off the water supply during the dismantling work. And only after that proceed to the very process of removing the old coil.

Even when removing the old radiator, you should pay attention to the wear of the riser to which it was attached. If its condition leaves much to be desired, it makes sense to replace it partially or completely. It would be useful to ask the opinions of the neighbors from below and above, all of a sudden they will support the idea of changing the riser completely. In any case, even if you only replace it at home, you need to do it in such a way that the old pipes do not remain overlapped and the junctions with the new sections are visible and accessible. Having outlined the places of the segment, cut off part of the riser together with the coil with a grinder.

The cut ends of the pipes have yet to be threaded, and a threading machine is useful for this. In construction markets and in stores everywhere they sell or rent this tool. From the ends of the cut pipe with a turbine, chamfer, install the lerk of the desired caliber in the tool socket and, fixing it at the end of the pipe, gradually cut the thread.

Pipe welding

Among the pipes for connecting plumbing, steel, copper and polypropylene are most often used. The latter compare favorably with ease of installation, resistance to corrosion and favorable price.

Plus, the process of soldering together propylene pipes is very simple and easy to learn. For independent work, you will need the following tools:

A set of nozzles of the desired caliber
Pipe cutter or wire cutter
beveler
Shaver (for removing a layer of aluminum from pipes)

We recommend that you purchase a toe in a specialized store to be sure of the quality. Attachments are always included with the soldering iron itself. different size and original stand, on which it can be fixed. Reliable welding can only be performed with a high-quality device, so we do not recommend saving on it.

At the beginning of work, draw up a diagram for yourself, taking into account the size of the plots, the location of the tees, taps and bends. It will be convenient to be guided by it for assembly accuracy and saving materials. Also, the scheme will minimize the number of adhesions on weight.

Use wire cutters or a pipe cutter to cut sections to the required length and chamfer the ends with a beveler. According to the standard, the chamfer has a slope of 15 degrees and a length of 2-3 mm. Do not forget to clean the cut edges of the pipes from burrs and crumbs for more reliable welding.

To connect the end of the pipes with the couplings, heat the valnik to 260 degrees and place the elements in the sockets of the corresponding nozzles. The coupling is put on the pin on one side, and the pipe is inserted into the sleeve on the other side. The heating time will be determined by the diameter of the element and the thickness of its walls. It is normalized by international standards and can be found in the relevant tables. You can independently determine the readiness for soldering by scrolling the element on the heating surface: with sufficient heating, the pipe or coupling will turn smoothly and be removed from the nozzle without effort.

Connect the heated coupling and pipe immediately after removing it from the soldering iron. At the same time, try to set them exactly in relation to each other and press them all the way, but you should not put pressure on the force. It will be possible to change the position of the connected parts literally within 3-5 seconds after the connection, before they finally grab.

Installation of bypass and taps

A bypass jumper, although not a mandatory element, can be very helpful in case of need. repair work on a heated towel rail. An elementary replacement of gaskets at the places where the coil is connected to the riser will require shutting off the water supply in it. And this means filing an application with the FSW and additional costs. By prudently including a jumper and shut-off valves in the connection diagram, you can cut off the dryer circuit from the main line without any hassle in case of repair or in order to save money.

When installing the jumper, you can use both steel and copper or polypropylene pipes. Since working with metal involves a complex welding procedure, it would be more rational to assemble a bypass from plastic pipes. For cutting off and regulating the flow on right areas we need 3 ball valves. By installing one on the jumper itself, and two on the water supply and return fittings, we can shut off the water supply to the radiator, cut it off from the riser. By adjusting the position of the tap on the jumper, you can reduce or increase the water supply in the circuit, and thereby adjust the heating temperature.

Installation and connection works are carried out in several stages:

We cut off the water supply.
We remove the old coil. If it is connected to the riser by a thread, we unscrew it with adjustable wrenches. If the coil is welded to the riser, we cut it off together with the pipe using an impeller.
We mount Ball Valves and jumper.
We screw the Mayevsky crane into the bypass for the convenience of airing the system.
We mark the places for future fastenings on the wall with a pencil. We set the marks horizontally using the level indicator.
We drill holes according to the marks and drive dowels into them.

Having set the heated towel rail so that the holes match, we fasten it with a screwdriver. Do not forget to maintain the required distance from the wall to the pipes and adjust it if there is a bracket with a stud.

To connect to the water supply and return fittings, we use the fittings from the kit. They can be straight or angled. Do not forget to seal the threads with tow or other winding. You can use fum to seal tapered threads. When mounting the device, be sure to set the minimum slope of the liner (5-10 mm). Tighten the union nuts, having previously placed under the wrench soft tissue to avoid scratches. Insert into the end of the nut gaskets. You need to tighten it smoothly and without undue effort, if there are difficulties when turning the key, unwind the connection and set the elements to be joined evenly. Having screwed the nut to the end, lightly crimp, but do not overdo it so as not to strip the thread.
After completing the assembly, you can supply water to the radiator. Slowly open the water supply to avoid water hammer. Slightly open the valve on the lintel to release air from the pipes. When water starts to drip out of it, you can close it. Closely inspect and iron all welds and threaded connections to detect leaks.

Installing an electric or combined towel warmer

As in the considered version with a water dryer, the installation of electric and combined models begins after the dismantling of the old device. Connecting an electric heated towel rail will have to be done after removing the old device.

It is noteworthy that with the help of a competent approach, it is possible to equip a device initially working from central heating with a heating cable. In this case, the cable with the thermostat will be led into the pipe through the bottom connection of the heated towel rail.

For correct and safe work An electric dryer must adhere to several requirements. The energy consumption of the heater will be at least 1 kW, and to connect it, you will have to bring out a separate outlet. From it, in turn, a wire with a cross section of at least 2.5 squares is stretched to the electrical panel itself. The power line for the heating element must be equipped with an automatic fuse.

When choosing a device with electric heater, you can not depend on the time of year and the heating season. You can use this device quite economically, turning it on only when it is really required.

grounding

key point is the grounding of the heated towel rail. The place for attaching the ground wire is usually already provided by the manufacturer. It remains only to put a protective socket and lay a three-wire wire from it into the shield. In the event that grounding through the switchboard is not provided for some reason, it is possible to carry out "zeroing" - to make a jumper between zero and ground. Such grounding is carried out on minimum distance from the shield.

As you can see, the installation and connection of electric and combined dryers will require certain skills and knowledge of working with wiring. Do it yourself or trust the experience of professionals - it's up to you. Soberly assess your strengths and do not take risks if you are not sure of a quality result.

To equip the bathroom, it is not enough to finish the floor and walls with tiles, as well as installing a bathtub and a washbasin with a mirror. It is important to ensure a normal indoor climate. This can be done with a towel warmer. At first glance, the device seems to be a simple and not very important item in the bathroom, but in fact it is far from it. Role heated towel rail in the interior of the bathroom invaluable. Without it, the room is damp and uncomfortable, after bathing the mirror fogs up, and on tiles condensation is formed. All these “charms” will undoubtedly lead to the appearance of a fungus, which will negatively affect the appearance and environmental friendliness of the room.

A steel bent pipe or several pipes, inside which heat energy is generated. As mentioned earlier, the device regulates the microclimate in the room. And it is possible to do this due to the heating capacity, which in turn depends on the scheme of operation of the device. In fact, the towel dryer generates heat, which warms the air in the bathroom and at the same time ensures a normal temperature, dry towels. Some models of heated towel rails are full-fledged decorative elements that complement the interior of the room. A well-chosen dryer will solve several problems at once: placing towels, maintaining a normal temperature, and creating an individual bathroom style.

Types of heated towel rails

Water. These can be seen in almost every Soviet apartment. They are in the form English letter"s" and installed on the wall. Water heated towel rails are connected to the central water supply or heating system, which means they work only when there is hot water / heat. That is, if drying for towels depends on heating, then in the summer it will not work, since the heat is turned off during this period. If the device depends on water supply, then it steadily “rests” during periods of hot water shutdown (several weeks in summer + force majeure situations during the year). Using a water towel dryer is very simple: plug it in and forget it. That, where to install a heated towel rail in the bathroom , if it is water, it does not depend on the preferences of the owners, but on the location of the exits to the central water or heat supply systems. This fact is regarded by some as a disadvantage of water towel dryers.

Electrical. Unlike water, they depend on electricity. They are autonomous heating devices that can be used in any room, even on a balcony or loggia. The scheme of operation of the device is simple: we connect the dryer to electricity, it heats up and, in fact, performs its functions. The device is good for its autonomy and mobility, which allows you to install it in any corner of the bathroom, and even after repair and finishing work. For example, with a water towel dryer, such possibilities do not appear.

Combined or electro-water. These are structures that can operate both from a central water or heat supply system, and from electricity. That is, for the duration of the presence of hot water (heating), the dryer works on the principle of water, and when there is no such source, heating is carried out at the expense of the mains. Highly convenient option, except for the fact that the dryer will have to be installed only in the installed outlets for water or heat supply.

Sizes and shapes of bathroom towel warmers

In addition to the power source of the device, its shape and dimensions are of great importance. The shape of the dryer determines its capacity and compliance with the specific design of the room. A beautiful heated towel rail with an original shape will attract attention and make the interior more refined and thoughtful. As for the dimensions of towel dryers, there are models on the market with a height of 30 to 80 cm. What size towel rail should I choose? It all depends on the dimensions of the bathroom and the number of residents in the apartment. For example, for big family a 70-80 cm dryer will be convenient, but if the bathroom is small, best option- 50-60 cm.

According to the forms, it is customary to divide towel dryers into:

Serpentines or zigzags. A typical example is water dryers. They are curved pipes. The shape allows not only to dry towels, but also to reduce water pressure inside the pipes.

Ladders. The European version, which is becoming increasingly popular in Russia. Such heated towel rails have many crossbars, which makes the device particularly practical. iDezz recommends equipping the dryer ladder with clothes hooks, then you can place much more items on it.

Foxtrots. Model of steel towel dryers, which is a zigzag-curved pipe attached to the main U-shaped pipe. Crossbars can be added to such a heated towel rail.

S-shaped, W-shaped, M-shaped and U-shaped. Models-analogues of the coil. Since everyone has different tastes, the variety of shapes allows everyone to choose the most suitable dryer for their bathroom.

Sheet. Belong to the category of designer models. The interior looks creative and at the same time elegant. Reminiscent of ladders, only with wide crossbars.

How to choose a heated towel rail for the bathroom?

A large selection of shapes and types of towel dryers makes it difficult to choose a device. iDezz will help you not to miscalculate the purchase of such an important item. First you need to prioritize. So what's most important to you?

stable optimum temperature air in the room. Then you should choose an electric heated towel rail. Why? There is an explanation for this above. We can only add that many electrical devices are equipped with additional functions that allow you to adjust the temperature and the frequency of heating (for example, morning, afternoon or night), which is very convenient.
Possibility to place many things besides towels. iDezz advises to take a closer look at foxtrots and ladders. And which heated towel rail is better to choose, only a matter of taste. Of course, the dryers of these forms are electric.
Ease of installation. It all depends on the model of the dryer. But if you decide to install the device in an already equipped bathroom, we recommend, again, an electric heated towel rail. With the installation of water there will be a lot of problems.
The relevance of a heated towel rail in a small bathroom. In this regard, water towel dryers have one significant drawback: strong heating leads to increased air temperature with all the ensuing consequences. Electric for small bathrooms is much better than water or combined.
Compliance with the stylistic concept of the room. This is where design comes into play. Of course, in a modern or high-tech bathroom, a classic water heated towel rail will not look good. Ladders, foxtrots or sheet dryers will fit much better into such rooms.
Profitability. Water is the least expensive, but it cannot be said that electric consumes a lot of energy. Modern advanced models fully work with minimal power consumption.

How high should you hang a heated towel rail in a bathroom?

The degree of heat transfer and comfort from using the device depends on the installation height of the dryer. According to SNiPs, devices must be placed at a height of 120 cm from the floor level.

Place under the dryer, e.g. washing machine, permitted. The only condition: it should not touch the pipes, and its collapsible unit should be at least 60 cm from the heated towel rail. If for some reason it is not possible to maintain this height, the main thing is to mount the structure at least 95 cm from the floor level.

These frames apply to water and combined heated towel rails. With electric ones, everything is much simpler, since they can even be placed on the floor without attaching to the wall.

Benefit and more!

Having learned so many new and interesting things about heated towel rails, would you say that this device is not really needed in the bathroom ?! After all, everyone wants to ensure a comfortable stay in the bathroom, and after taking a shower, wrap themselves not in a wet and damp, but in a warm and pleasant to the body towel.

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Water heated towel rails are equipment that maintains a comfortable temperature in the bathroom. In addition, it can dry towels in just a couple of hours. Thanks to the circulation of hot water inside the device, constant and uniform heating is ensured.

Many do not know which one - electric or water heated towel rail - to opt for. Water-type models have many advantages and are in demand among different groups consumers. The main advantages include:

Despite the undeniable advantages, these devices have certain disadvantages:

complex installation: in order to connect the structure to a hot pipeline, you need to use the services of a master;
seasonality of work: when the heating is turned off, the heated towel rail will not work and in spring / summer the pipes will be cold.

Model sizes

When choosing a device, great attention is paid to the dimensions of the heated towel rail for the bathroom. They must necessarily correspond to the volume of the room.

Today you can buy units of different diameters. There are products with an outer diameter of 25 mm (¾”). They usually have M- or U-shaped view. When the diameter is 1¼”, then the indicator is 40 mm. Such devices are often made in the form of P and are quite rare, due to their complex production. There are also 1” models with a diameter of 32 mm available for sale. These include most of the classical devices.

There is another way to calculate a heated towel rail, the dimensions are determined as follows: when the temperature of the coolant is + 70 ° C, then the ratio of the heated room and the power of the device will be 2.5 m³ / 100 W.

Form of devices

Manufacturers produce many water heated towel rails for the bathroom, which differ in all sorts of indicators. One of the main differences is the shape:

There are also other types of heated towel rails for bathrooms, which depend on manufacturers:

Finnish models. They are very popular because they have many forms. They are attached to the water supply using 2 vertical pipes, which are placed at an angle. Thanks to this fastening, when drying, things do not interfere with each other.
German models. They are distinguished by great functionality and a choice of forms. Some options are equipped with mirrors and robe hooks. The high price is justified by the durability and high quality.
Italian models. Most of them are equipped swivel mechanism, which provides a 180° turn. But in this case, the mass of things cannot be more than 5 kg.

Production material

Determining which heated towel rail is better, it is not easy to rely on it. specifications and form, but also the material of manufacture. Today they produce products that are made from:

of stainless steel;
gland;
non-ferrous metals;
become.

Iron water heated towel rails are the most budgetary models, however, service life they are quite small. Therefore, their purchase is justified only if there is small amount of money.

Stainless steel products are durable and long lasting long time. The advantages of such products include the ability to withstand high pressure and corrosion resistance. If you highlight the distinctive features, then you need to say about the high cost, in comparison with steel or copper devices. In addition, you can buy a budget analogue - a device that is painted like a stainless steel. But during operation, it may lose its attractive appearance.

Copper heated towel rails are rust resistant and less expensive. Their allowable pressure is 5-6 bar, so they are ideal for private houses in which the water pressure is not more than 2-4 atmospheres.

Steel models are very popular due to the fact that they have a low cost. However, during operation, corrosion marks may form on them. Such a device must be completely filled with water, otherwise oxygen will actively accumulate even in a small void, which will provoke instant oxidation of the pipes.

Connection methods

Before choosing a heated towel rail for the bathroom, you need to consider the connection. It depends on its design. There are 4 connection methods in total:

TOP 5 models

There are many manufacturers on the modern construction market, but there is a certain rating of the most proven and high-quality models of heated towel rails:

1. ENERGY MODERN.

This bathroom equipment is made of high quality food grade steel. It is quite adapted to the aggressive environment of the hot water supply system. The device is durable and reliable, and mirror polishing will not darken during operation. The design of the model is suitable for any style and will give it originality. Due to the presence of a large number of horizontal bars, the high functionality of the heated towel rail is ensured.

2. TERMINUS ASTRA NEW DESIGN.

Such a device is perfect combination cost, attractive design and functionality. It is suitable for connection to a hot water supply system and heating system. The tube is made of high quality stainless steel and welded using a special technology, and the surface polishing is performed at the highest level. Due to the fact that the manufacturer produces models of different widths and heights, everyone can choose for themselves suitable option. The design of the device is designed for temperatures up to 115 ° C and a pressure of 8 atmospheres.

This model of heated towel rail is not demanding on water quality and is resistant to rust formation. She stands out for her unusual design. The manufacturer makes it from brass, using chrome plating and decorative processing. good quality soldering and assembly makes installation easy and fast. Compact dimensions and the ability to rotate the dryer by 180° significantly expand functionality devices. The manufacturer's warranty is 2 years. Valves are included with the device.

4. SUNERGHA FUROR

It is 1 of the most attractive device regarding the design. It is stylish, functional and high quality at the same time. The heated towel rail comes complete with all the necessary components and accessories. Its material is stainless steel. Moreover, it is possible to supplement the device with valves, thermostats, hangers, shelves, reflectors and corners. There are several surface finishes and colors available.

5. ZEHNDER STALOX STXI-060-045.

There are 2 versions of such devices - with a polished surface and with powder coated. The heated towel rail comes with an installation kit. Pressure up to 12 bar and operating temperature up to 120°C are allowed. The device is made of stainless steel in the form of a ladder, and the horizontal and vertical parts are connected by welding with square registers. Due to its compactness, the equipment can be mounted in almost every bathroom. In addition, it is equipped with an air closer, which allows you to prevent the formation air locks during operation.

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