Indigo dye. Shades of blue: All about indigo and woad, two well-known noble dyes. The process of obtaining dye from indigo

The heat has passed and it has been replaced by cold and endless rain in our city. I drink hot mate, knit and listen to Mine Reed. A wonderful writer is distinguished not only wonderful stories about the life of the American continent in old times but also the most beautiful detailed descriptions nature, in particular the vegetation that interests me so much

At the very beginning of the book "Oceola, Chief of the Seminoles" he writes about plantations of the indigo plant (from which indigo dye - beautiful dark blue). And I have always been interested in the topic of natural and vegetable dyes, especially since I deeply love this color. I decided to conduct a small photo investigation But first, a quote from Mine Reed.

The house adjoins a vast space, fenced with bars. In the center of it rises a huge canopy, occupying half an acre of land. He is supported by strong wooden poles. Under the canopy one can see huge oblong vats, hollowed out from cypress trunks. Three vats, installed one above the other, communicate with each other by means of cranes. In these vats, a precious plant, indigo, is soaked, and a blue dye is extracted from it.

Beyond the fence stretch wide fields, bordered by a dark belt of cypress forests that hide the horizon. In these fields, indigo grows. However, there are other crops here: maize, sweet potatoes, rice and sugar cane. But they are not for sale, but for their own use.

Indigo is sown in straight rows at intervals. Plants do not develop at the same time: some have just blossomed, and their leaves look like young shamrocks; others are already in full bloom, over two feet tall, and resemble ferns. They are distinguished by light green feathery leaves, characteristic of all legumes - indigo belongs to this family. Butterfly-like flowers sometimes bloom, but they are rarely allowed to reach full bloom. A different fate awaits them: purple flowers cut mercilessly.

Hundreds of people move around inside the fence and in the indigo fields. Except for one or two, they are all Africans, all slaves. All are dressed in work clothes. The men wear light linen trousers, brightly colored shirts, and palm-leaf hats. Few can boast of their outfit. Some are naked to the waist, their black skin gleaming like ebony in the sun. Women are dressed more colorfully - in striped cotton dresses, on their heads they wear Madras shawls made of bright checkered fabric. Some dresses are tasteful and very beautiful. A turban-like hairstyle gives women a special picturesqueness.

Both men and women work on the indigo plantation. Some cut plants and tie them into sheaves; others drag these sheaves from the fields under a shed; there they are thrown into the upper trough - the “boiling vat”, the third ones divert the water and “squeeze it out”. The rest of the workers shovel the sediment into the drains, and a few people are busy drying and shaping the paint. Everyone perform certain work And, I must say, quite fun.

And here's what he saysWikipedia about the indigo plant:

Indigofera dye (lat. Indigofera tinctoria) is a plant of the legume family, a species of the genus Indigofer, originating from India and cultivated in many tropical countries for blue paint.

A low shrub up to 2 m high. The leaves are pinnately compound with 4-7 pairs of leaflets. Leaflets elliptic, glabrous above, appressed-hairy below. The flowers are pink or purple, moth-like, collected in small axillary racemes. The fruit is a white-pubescent linear-cylindrical bean with 4-6 seeds.

Indigo blue is an extremely durable fabric dye, but it is now artificially synthesized. The powder of the leaves of indigo dye, mixed with henna, gives a black hair dye called basma.

The leaves of the plant are also considered medicinal. In Vietnam, they are used to treat boils and various skin diseases. In India, they are used internally for liver diseases.

The secret of blue denim- just in indigo dye. When the USA consisted of 13 American colonies, and jeans were just work clothes, indigo was the best and most durable dye, which, among other things, gave a practical color.

Indigofera (lat. Indigofera) - perennial deciduous shrub with long period flowering. The habitat of the plant is the Himalayas. It thrives well in temperate climates. The genus Indigofera is very numerous and has more than 300 varieties.

Botanical description

The plant belongs to the legume family. In the genus there are herbaceous, semi-shrub and shrub varieties. The ground part is pubescent with sparse villi, which give it a silky feel. The leaves are attached to long petioles, up to 30 cm in size, in pairs in the amount of 3-31 pieces per petiole. Whole-edge small leaves on the stem are arranged alternately and reach a length of 3-5 cm. The shape of the leaf is oval with a pointed edge. Leaves begin to bloom from mid-May to early June.

In the axils, long, lush, spike-shaped inflorescences up to 15 cm long are formed. Each flower resembles a small moth of pink, purple or white color. The calyx is bell-shaped and consists of five serrated petals of the same size. In some varieties, the lower petal is slightly longer than the others. In the core of each flower there are up to a dozen filiform stamens and one sessile ovary. Flowering begins in July and continues until frost.

After the flowers wither, fruits form. Bob has a spherical or elongated shape. The pods are dark, with a slight whitish pubescence, open independently as they ripen. Each pod contains 4-6 seeds.

Varieties

• reaches a height of 1.8 m. This deciduous shrub begins flowering in August and fades only in October. Unpaired leaves are collected on long petioles and have the ability to close at night. Inflorescences are dense, pink-purple, odorless. The average length of each of them is 15 cm. In a temperate climate, the plant does not have time to form fruits, therefore it reproduces only vegetatively. Shrubs are very undemanding in care and grow quickly. Sensitive to severe frosts, so they require good hiding place for the winter.

  

• - tall spreading shrub with arcuate branches. In width, as well as in height, it reaches 1.8 m. Since the beginning of summer, it is abundantly covered with dark green, gray-gray foliage and lilac-pink flowers. With the onset of frost, the leaves fall first, which leads to the transition of the plant to the dormant phase. But even at this time, it is quite decorative because of the dark arched beans. Frost resistance is average, needs shelter.

  

• - semi-shrub or herbaceous plant 1.2-1.5 m high. Unpaired leaves up to 15 cm long consist of 7-13 leaflets. Each one folds in half overnight. In July, axillary peduncles up to 20 cm long with pink moth flowers are formed. The variety differs in that the dried and powdered foliage is used to obtain a blue dye.

  

• widespread in China. Spreading deciduous shrub quickly grows up to 1.8-2 m in height and 1.5-1.7 m in width. Differs in long and plentiful flowering from July to November. The flowers are bright, purple and pink. The plant does not tolerate frost well and requires significant pruning. Otherwise, the shoots will freeze. The variety has interesting variety- El Dorado with bright pink flowers. Each petal is twisted outward, which gives the inflorescences an openwork appearance.

  

• decorative indigofera widely distributed in Japan and China. It differs from other species in its compactness. Bushes do not exceed 60 cm in height, and 1 m in width. The dense crown consists of many annual arched shoots. She is able to bend down to the ground without any damage and fully restore her form. The leaves are small, ovate, with a pointed edge. They are located on petioles up to 25 cm long in the amount of 7-13 pieces. The upper side of the leaves is smooth and dark green in color. The lower part of the leaf is gray, with whitish sparse pubescence. The flowers are pink, with a darker purple base. Collected in inflorescences up to 15 cm long. They delight with their beauty from June to autumn cold. The variety has a variety with snow-white flowers - Alba.

  

  decorative indigofera

• lives in North China and Korea. It is more resistant to frost. Withstands temperatures down to -29°C. The erect stems of this deciduous shrub grow by 60-100 cm. The crown has the shape of a hemisphere. Stems and petioles are pubescent with whitish villi. Unpaired leaves are located on the petiole 8-15 cm long in the amount of 7-13 pieces. The size of each of them is 1-3 cm. On a spike-shaped inflorescence up to 15 cm long, 20-30 buds are collected. color pink with a darker base. The length of the corolla of each flower is up to 2 cm. The beans ripening in autumn have an elongated curved shape and reach a length of 3-5.5 cm.

  

Reproduction methods

Indigofera reproduces well by seeds. The only inconvenience is that in the northern regions the ovaries do not have time to form and ripen. But beans harvested in the south do well in colder areas. For seedlings, seeds are sown in January, after soaking in a growth stimulator. In pots with sandy-peat soil, the beans are placed on the surface, pressing a little. No need to sprinkle on top. The containers are stored in a lighted place at a temperature of +10…+18°C. Sprouts begin to appear on the 8th day.

The grown plants are transplanted into separate pots at the age of 3-4 weeks. AT open ground seedlings are transplanted in June, keeping a distance of 1.5-2 m. In the south of the country, a simplified procedure can be dispensed with. Seeds are immediately sown in open ground in mid-April. After the appearance of 4 pairs of true leaves, the seedlings are transplanted to permanent place. Seedlings are not expected to flower immediately; in the first years they build up the root mass. They bloom for 3-4 years.

In summer, indigofera reproduces well by cuttings. To do this, in June-July, young shoots with 2-3 buds are cut and added dropwise in fertile light soil. In order to retain moisture as much as possible, the stalk is covered with glass or film before rooting.

Features of care

This shrub prefers sunny garden areas or light shade. In this case, flowering will be especially plentiful. Heat-loving shoots need protection from cold winds.

The soil is preferably neutral or slightly acidic. It is important to ensure good drainage and timely top dressing. Fertilizers are applied 1-2 times a month. Organic and complex are preferred mineral fertilizers. In dry weather, bushes should be watered periodically.

With the onset of cold weather, the bush is almost completely cut off, up to the cut of stiff shoots. Frost-resistant varieties are left with a small stump, 15 cm high. During the winter, roots and ground shoots are covered with foliage and branches. In winter this place is covered with snow. In the spring, the indigofer actively starts growing and manages to grow up to 3 m of the crown in a season.

Usage

Indigofera is used as an independent decoration of the garden, in large areas it is possible to plant an alley of these plants. Suitable for masking unattractive outbuildings and creating shade in gazebos.

Some varieties of indigo are actively used in the beauty and industry. The leaves are used to make indigo powder, which is a natural blue dye. It is suitable for dyeing fabrics and furniture. Eastern women have long used the plant to make basma, a natural dye and care product.

In folk medicine, indigo tincture helps to heal abrasions, wounds and other skin problems. It has bactericidal and healing effects. It is also used in the complex treatment of leukemia.

Indigofera (Indigofera) or Basma is the most famous oriental hair dye plant origin. In different proportions, it gives colors from chestnut to charcoal, giving the hair softness, radiance and a healthy look. Next, we will provide information that this is indigo dye, and a photo of the hair dyed with it.

Beneficial features

This natural pigment comes from India. It has always been appreciated by Eastern women and used to add volume, gloss to hair, eliminate dandruff, treat dermatological diseases and, of course, to obtain the most in-depth and intense dark hair tone.

This is a completely natural product, from which a variety of compositions of healing masks and cosmetics are made to maintain and treat hair follicles. The indigofer dye plant includes the necessary minerals, natural resins, tannins, natural wax and vitamins that make the strands flexible, strengthen the hair and nourish the skin.

Origin

Dyeing Indigofera grows mainly in sultry conditions, mostly in Southeast Asia. It is a plant of the genus of leguminous shrubs, it has colorful pink inflorescences and has a pleasant aroma.

The leaves of indigo dye are used, most often, as a pigment for hair and fabrics. The resulting paint is considered very durable and saturated. In addition, the plant is used for medical purposes, for example, for liver diseases and various dermatological inflammations.

The procedure for dyeing hair with this composition makes it possible to achieve the result of lamination due to the fact that there is resin in the coloring pigments. Resins fill the voids between the scales and smooth the surface of the hair, they clearly thicken, look strong and attractive.

Indigofera is very popular in cosmetic medicine. She possesses:

• anti-inflammatory properties;
• antiseptic effect;
• softening effect;
• cleans, eliminates dandruff.

Basma for hair coloring

Natural paint from leaves of indigo dye (Basma) has the following properties:

• makes curls submissive;
• simplifies combing;
• prevents entanglement;
• enhances roots and texture;
• nourishes curls;
• stimulates growth;
• forms a protective film;
• gives volume, making curls more luxurious.

Coloring basma can be used to update the shade, and in addition, it is permissible to use it between the use of industrial paints. This requires brewing Art. l. composition in a small amount of warm water, and dilute the resulting mixture with hot water to a volume of 1 liter. This prepared solution should be rinsed with curls after washing. Such a composition can correct an unwanted tone.

What dye can be obtained from the leaves of indigo dye

The dye is made from young leaves of indigo plants, dried and ground into a fine powder. To obtain a chestnut color, henna is added to it in various proportions, depending on the expected shade. This natural pigment is perfect for gray hair and paints unpigmented areas well in natural colors.

The real composition of indigo hair dye gives a deep dark tone without additional pigments. There is a misconception that basma gives hair a greenish or turquoise tint, but this is not so, and this judgment was formed in the 80s, when various chemicals were added to the pigment. cheapening impurities.

Mixing formulas

We offer you recipes for creating various shades using basma:

• "Black Tulip". Combine basma and henna (ratio - 2/1), add 4 tsp to the mixture. beetroot juice and hold on the hair for 3 hours.

• Intense black. Take 2 identical shares of basma and henna. Make a solution and separately stand on the hair for 2-3 hours.

• Natural black. Mix 1 serving of henna and three servings of basma. Keep for 3-4 hours.

• Bronze. Take 2 servings of henna and 1 serving of basma. Leave on hair for 1.5-2 hours.

• Chestnut. Keep the same portions of basma and henna on the hair for no more than 1.5 hours, separately, or mix 1 portion of henna and 2 portions of basma (hold for 1.5 hours).
• Light brown. One part of henna and 1 part of basma. Keep no more than an hour.
• Fair-haired. Combine 1 portion of henna and 1 portion of basma. Exposure time - from 30 to 40 minutes.

You have already understood that indigo dye is basma, a stable, safe paint that any girl can afford. The intensity of the tone depends on the exposure period and the natural color of the hair, and in addition, on their texture and thickness. Do not forget that strong curls will be painted more actively.

Staining procedure

First you need to find out the subtype of your hair, since this natural dye (indigofera dye) dries them a little, which, of course, is good for oily and not very dry curls. Owners of thin by nature and hair damaged by hostile dyes need to reduce the time of influence of the dye and apply it less often than women with normal and oily hair can do.

To make a mixture, you need:

• take plastic or glassware and pour into it right amount powder;
• stirring with a spoon, pour hot water(not boiling water) until a homogeneous slurry is obtained;
• distribute the pigment through the hair with a special brush, and in addition, make sure that the mass does not cool down;
• endure right time then wash the curls warm water.

Coloring at home with basma is absolutely simple, and all this can be done without much effort and additional ingredients. The procedure does not take a lot of time and makes it possible to add the desired tone to the hair without damage.

• it is not recommended to wash your hair for 3 days after dyeing;
• basma is not brewed with boiling water;
• do not insulate;
• it must be washed off with water only;
• henna can be brewed with a decoction of ground coffee;
• it is possible to obtain an extremely black tone only with separate staining of indigofera (basma) and henna (henna);
• before dyeing, each time you should cut off the split, fragile sections of the hair;
• stir the composition thoroughly so that no undissolved granules remain.
• you need to apply it, putting gloves on your hands in advance, otherwise the paint from the skin will still long time won't wash off;
• people with dry hair types and those with porous and thin curls, these dyes are not recommended;
• basma is a very stable paint, it is difficult to wash off, for this reason it is preferable to underdo it rather than overdo it.

Making healing masks

A variety of oils, grassy textures, powders and other high-calorie components can be added to the coloring gruel. Natural basma and henna make it possible to perform effective treatment hair and give them a bright right tone. These are completely safe substances with no contraindications. They do not contain chemicals. elements, they instantly and effectively deeply act and renew the texture of the hair.

To make a healing mask, you should:

• prepare curls by washing and drying them in advance;
• brew basma or henna powder with boiling water;
• insist for 15 minutes;
• bring with a whisk to a thick paste;
• supplement egg yolk and a tablespoon of olive oil;
• apply and hold for 30 minutes;
• wash off without using shampoo.

Apply the mask once a month.

Coloring of eyelashes and eyebrows

Indigo dye is an element that is often included in the formulations of paints for eyelashes and eyebrows. This operation perfectly strengthens the hair follicles and promotes their growth, which makes the cilia longer and the direction of the brow ridges is reconstructed.

The process itself is somewhat troublesome, but the reward will be a spectacular look and increasing growth of eyelashes. If you paint over not only the hairs, but also the skin between them, you get the effect of a tattoo.

The operation will require:

• part of henna and 2 parts of basma (you can use a ready-made natural multi-colored mixture for coloring);
• warm water (up to 90 ° C);
• plastic or earthenware;
• flat vessel with hot water;
• tassel;
• cream for dry skin or oil;
• napkins, cotton pads and sticks.

Cooking:

• pour powder 1/2 tsp. water;
• a couple of drops of oil;
• place the vessel with gruel in a container with warm water and stir thoroughly;
• if the solution is thick, add some water, if it is liquid, wait a little more or add a pinch of powder (the density should be such that it is well smeared like oil paint);
• when the solution is prepared, it is necessary to apply a cream on the skin near the eyes and eyebrows or cover these areas with oil, creating a outline and protecting.

Coloring process:

1. Attach protective cotton half-discs under the lower eyelashes.
2. Eyelashes paint over from the top line, starting from the base to the edges. Paint over carefully avoiding the formation of lumps and grains.
3. Next, work on the bottom lashes.
4. During the operation, immediately eliminate the smeared areas with a stick or a corner of a napkin.
5. Next, proceed to the eyebrows, keeping the tone from 60 to 90 minutes.
6. Moisten cilia and eyebrows, wait a bit until the composition gets wet and gently wash until the water is colorless.

In order for the cilia to get a bright dark tone and color more evenly, it is preferable to perform 3 operations with an interval of 3 to 5 days.

Cons of using

Basma is an environmentally friendly product that includes biologically active elements and vitamins. But it should be remembered that it is not used for staining separately, otherwise an indigo-greenish tone may come out.

In addition, it has the feature of drying curls. The composition of the product includes tannins and acids, which may not contribute to given property. For this reason, in the interval between staining, it is necessary to moisturize the curls as much as possible and apply the dye no more than once a month.

Another of the disadvantages of basma is that after washing off the paint gets dirty.

Application artificial means for coloring to natural may cause the wrong tone to be obtained. What exactly will be the color from indigo dye, in this case, even a specialist in the salon will not be able to answer.

Neelini - dyeing indigo(Indigofera tinctoria), indigonos, true indigo (English), indigofera.

Two dyes are obtained from the powder of indigo leaves - indigo, a very strong dark blue fabric dye, and basma, a hair dye. Basma- these are crushed leaves of indigo, having a greenish-gray color. Basma is not used separately for hair coloring, otherwise it may turn out blue-green color. It can only be used in conjunction with henna. Since basma contains indigo, if henna is added to it, the presence of a red component will prevent a green tint from appearing. In turn, the blue component of basma neutralizes the rich red color of henna, making the result of staining more calm, see HENNA NATURAL LADY HENNA COLOR BROWN. Basma can also be used exclusively for hair care, without dyeing it. To do this, the residence time of the dye on the hair is reduced to a few minutes.

Neelini - Indigo or Indigo dye is used to treat fever, liver and spleen, rheumatoid arthritis, gout, gray hair, etc. Leaves promote hair growth.

Names in different languages:
Hindi name- Neela
English name-Indigo, Indian Indigo
Telugu name- Nilimandu chettu, Aviri, Neela chettu
Tamil name- Neelam, Avuri, Amari
Malayalam name- Lita, Leela

Sanskrit synonyms:
Tutttha - The blue color of the flower resembles the color of copper sulfate
Nilini, Nili, Neelika, Neelapuspa - Blue flower
ASITA, Shyama, Ranjani, Kali, Kaala, Kaalakeshi - Grey hair in black
Gramina, Gramya, Anjanika, Daka, Puccha, Tooni,
Vishodhini - purification, useful in the treatment of Virechana
Bharati, Bhara vahini
Shree Phalika, Shri Phali, Maha Phala, Mocha, Madhuparnika, Rangapatri

Classic categorization:
Charaka Samhita - a group of herbs used for Virechan, Charaka Sutrasthana 2nd chapter
Kaiyadeva Nighantu - Oshadhi Varga
Bhavaparaksha Nighantu, Dhanvantari Nighantu - Guduchadi Varga
Raja Nighantu - Shadavadi Varga

Properties:
Guna (quality) - Laghu - light (for digestion), Rooksha - dry.
Rasa (taste) - Tikta - bitter.
Vipak-Katu (spicy).
Virya - Ushna (warming).
Effect on Tridosha - Balance Kapha and Vata Dosha.

The use of indigo dye, like medicine:
Sarah - causes movement, relaxation and cleansing of the intestines, relieving constipation;
Ushna - warming;
Keshya - increase in the strength of hair, their growth;
Vishahara - removes toxins;
Rechani - useful for Virechana, bowel cleansing.

Shown at:
Bhrama, Moha - hallucinations, deception of feelings, dizziness;
Pleeha - disease of the spleen, splenomegaly (enlargement of the spleen);
Udara - ascites, an increase in the abdominal cavity;
Visha - toxic conditions, poisoning;
Vatarakta - gout;
Udavarta - flatulence, flatulence, bloating;
Mada - intoxication;
Gulma - tumor of the abdominal cavity;
Jantu - helminthic invasion;
Jwara - fever.

Indigo dye for hair:
Leaves paste is applied to the hair 20 minutes before the bath to reduce graying and hair growth.
Neelini is used as an ingredient in many hair oils, such as Neelibhringadi tailam, used in the treatment of hair loss and graying hair problems.

Outdoor use:
The leaf paste is applied externally to quickly heal wounds. This paste is useful in case of insect bites and skin diseases with itching. (It is also used in the treatment of a scorpion sting.)

Application inside:
Indigofera relieves constipation, is useful for rheumatoid arthritis, ascites, splenomegaly, liver dysfunction. It is a very good tonic for the liver.

Influence at respiratory system: because Indigofera dye balances Kapha and Vata Dosha, it is useful for coughs, colds, bronchitis, rhinitis, asthma. Leaves, roots and stem are expectorant.

Influence on the musculoskeletal system: Indigo is useful for gout, rheumatoid arthritis, osteoarthritis. Relieves pain and inflammation of the joints, improves their flexibility.

Use in rabies:
The leaf paste is applied to the site of a dog bite.
After a dog bite, 50 ml of juice extract is mixed with an equal amount of milk and taken in the morning to relieve hydrophobia (hydrophobia).

WARNINGS:
Indigofer is best avoided for diarrhea.
It is better to consult a doctor first if you want to use it during pregnancy.
It is safe to use during lactation and for children.

Ayurvedic preparations with Indigo as an ingredient:
Aravindasavam - Ayurveda uses it to improve digestion in children, increase body weight and strength.
Neelimuladi Gulika - Used in Ayurveda to treat fever.
Neelibhringadi - oil is used to improve the quality of hair, to treat split ends, premature graying and baldness.
Gorochanadi Gulika - used in Ayurveda to treat fever, pneumonia, coughs, colds, etc.
Chemparuthyadi Keratailam is a traditional herbal oil used in Ayurveda to treat skin conditions.
Maha Panchagavya Ghrita is used to treat fever, epilepsy, fistula, inflammation, hemorrhoids, etc.

Studies have confirmed the antihepatotoxic effect and nephroprotective activity of indigofera.

In some cases, Indigo is used as an antidote.

The parts used are the root, the whole plant.
Dosages - powder 3 - 5 g, decoction 50-100 ml.

Perhaps the most famous dye in the non-professional environment, indigo, was once actually produced from plants. Therefore, clothes of a rich blue color were then far from being the most affordable. Today, almost the entire amount of dye produced is synthetic, and "blue jeans" are synonymous with a democratic mass product. However, we are more interested in the same natural indigo, which was obtained from the leaves of indigo plants, as well as its younger (in importance, but not in terms of age) brother - a dye obtained from woad plants. We will tell you about the technology, history and opposition of these two ancient natural dyes.

Indigo dye(Indigofera tinctoria) is a herbaceous plant from the legume family. Indigo shrubs reach two meters in height. Indigo grows in India, Egypt, Japan, southern regions Europe, Russia and USA.

If you think a little about the name, you will come to a completely correct guess - this dye is named after India, in which the most extensive indigo plantations grew and which was the center of its distribution from time immemorial. In general, experts call indigo one of the first dyes that have come down to us on Earth - it was used in ancient civilizations - Egypt, Mesopotamia, Ancient Greece and Rome, not to mention India and the countries of Southeast Asia. They dyed with indigo mainly silk, but not only. On cuneiform clay tablets, which scientists presumably attribute to the 7th century BC, a recipe for dyeing with indigo wool is described. Needless to say, this dye was a luxury item, and clothing of the corresponding colors was a marker of the nobility and wealth of its owners, and in completely different societies - from the nomadic Tuareg West Africa to the aristocrats of East Asia.

Dried natural indigo tiles
Skein of linen thread dyed with indigo

Actually, the processing of leaves into indigo has become a real craft, often the only lifelong profession. Huge clay vats were used to soak the leaves, in countries with a warm climate, a hole was simply pulled out for them in the ground, and where it was colder, coals were used for heating.

PROCESS OF OBTAINING DYE FROM INDIGO

Actually, the main active substance in the production of indigo is indican - a colorless water-soluble substance, the content of which in plant leaves usually ranges from 0.2% to 0.8%. The leaves were soaked in water and fermented, turning the clear indican into blue indigotine. The precipitate of this solution was mixed with a strong base such as lye, the hardened mass was pressed into tiles, and then it was dried and turned into powder. And then this powder was added to various solutions to receive different shades blue and purple.

Woad dye(Ísatis tinctória) is a plant of the cabbage family. It grows in the steppe and desert zones of the Caucasus, in Central Asia and Eastern Siberia and also in North Africa. In general, woad is much less whimsical than its famous competitor, and therefore, before indigo, it was it that was used from ancient times in Europe.

Woad differs from indigo in a more “dusty” and “greenish” tint.

The woad seeds found on the territory of modern France and Germany, archaeologists date back to the Neolithic, the last period of the Stone Age. Woad was one of the first dyes discovered by the ancient Egyptians, who used it to dye the robes that wrapped the mummy. And the warlike tribes of the Picts, with whom Julius Caesar fought, applied war coloring to their faces and bodies with woad. In the Middle Ages, the French city of Toulouse, in the vicinity of which a huge amount of woad grew, literally flourished thanks to this plant - the city's bosses exported the dye to huge quantities and built stately mansions, many of which have survived to this day.

PROCESS FOR OBTAINING BLUE DYE FROM WOOD

The leaves were crushed with a little water into a uniform mass and left to ferment in tall pots for fifteen days, after which they were formed into balls and dried. These balls of dark blue-green or yellow-green color, when rubbed with water, gave a solution that stains tissues in blue color. In fairness, it must be said that dyeing woad is, in fact, a technically cheap substitute for indigofera. Its leaves contain, as a rule, less than the desired indigotin, and the color often turned out to be not so saturated, rather “dusty”.

Confrontation of woad and indigo

As is often the case with products that are strategically important for the national economy, woad found itself in the center of real financial and political conflicts, at enmity with indigo imported from India. Day by day, the merchants - “domestic producers” who grew rich due to the plant of the cabbage family, were completely out of their hands with the emergence of a competitor that was stronger from a technological point of view, and here we have a vivid example of medieval lobbying of interests.

In 1609, already the French monarch Henry IV forbade the use of "Indian potion" under pain of death. Both woad and natural indigo died (at least for the general public) at the border of the 19th and 20th centuries, when it was obtained effective method synthesize blue dye. Although it is worth saying that in a number of German states, some factories still dye their products using natural woad.

INDIGO AND VAIDA TODAY

Most practical way synthesize indigo was opened in exactly the curtain XIX century, and XX century finally sank the label "blue gold", making indigo one of the classic colors in a wide range of textile dyes. By the way, now synthetic indigo is obtained from, at first glance, rather unexpected substances - oil or coal tar. The irony of fate - once an integral attribute of aristocracy and wealth, in the last century, indigo moved to the service of the working class. Jeans, chambray shirts, even the term "blue collars" gives us an idea of ​​what kind of dye was most often used in the production of work clothes.

1. Woad production in Thuringia, illustration from 1725. 2. Woad dye production, early 20th century. 3. Ancient Britons painted with woad dye. 4. getting indigo 5. Mel Gibson as William Wallace in " Braveheart". The face is painted with a dye obtained from woad. 6. This is what woad balls look like. 7. Box set for painting with woad at home.

It is worth saying that even today woad has not become a useless weed, but is actively used in completely different areas - in order to protect against harmful chemicals, tree trunks are painted with it, it is used to produce ink, primarily printer ink, glucobrassicin contained in woad is a component that prevents oncological disease drugs, and in China ethnoscience and even offers to treat with the help of woad leaves a whole spectrum unpleasant ailments from influenza and scarlet fever to syphilis.

HOW DYED WITH THE HELP OF INDIGO

One pair of jeans takes from three to twelve grams of this dye. Even less is needed to dye silk or wool. There are many ways of coloring, but we will consider the most high-quality and frequently used, albeit not the easiest, rope method of coloring.

The process of dyeing with indigo:

Things dyed with woad