Onion sets do not rise what to do. Why do onion sets sprout poorly, do not grow? Poor onion growth due to low temperatures

Summer residents are often faced with a situation where the harvested planting bow sprouts ahead of schedule. This happens due to improper storage and non-compliance with the temperature regime. Contrary to popular belief, this root crop equally “loves” both cold and heat, in the first case it is likely that it will deteriorate, and in the second it will begin to germinate quickly. To prevent this, it should be stored in a cool and dry place with good air circulation, at temperatures from 0 to +20 C. If the moment is lost, germination cannot be stopped, then a natural question arises: is it possible to plant sprouted onion sets? Onions are a finicky culture, it is worth discussing this in detail, in order.

Do not store onion sets in cardboard box, as many do, making a gross mistake - the cardboard draws in moisture and transfers it to the bulbs, so all the conditions for its germination are unconsciously created.

Best time to plant onions

It is believed that the earlier the onion is planted, the better. In fact, it is not time that matters, but the accompanying weather conditions for landing. Regardless of the air temperature, the soil should warm up to at least +30 C, in an unheated and with periodic night frosts, the planted crop will certainly go to the arrows.

Planting sprouted onions

But you can’t take too long either - the soil should be moist and contain enough moisture, so that the bulbs form a strong and developed bulb in just a few days. root system. It should be added that a common mistake is to plant onions according to the sowing or lunar calendar, not taking into account the size of the territory of Russia and the many climatic zones, encircling her. Under normal weather conditions, most favorable time in almost all regions, the beginning-mid-May is considered.

What to do with sprouted onions

Onions do not always germinate earlier, until it is time to plant. The culprit for this is often a delayed winter, naturally in such a situation it grows, regardless of storage conditions.

Note! If unfavorable weather ruined the plans, and the onion sets sprouted before planting, all that remains to be done is to germinate it further, otherwise it will deteriorate, and right in the house, in order to use at least onion greens.

For these purposes, a box with soil is used, where the seedlings are planted tightly to each other and watered abundantly. original solution- a kind of bottle ridge:

• in plastic bottles the earth falls asleep;
• make a lot of holes in height;
• bulbs are placed in them in a horizontal position.

Onion in a bottle

This growing method has a number of advantages:

1. "Home flower bed" takes up little space on the windowsill, where at least a dozen bottles are placed;
2. Onions grown in this way are easy to conveniently water, simply pouring water into the neck of the bottle, it will evenly moisten the soil;
3. Convenient and cut greens, using ordinary stationery scissors;
4. There will always be a fresh early leek from a sevka to the table, before a kind of disembarkation actually doomed;
5. In cold, dank weather, a bulbous “herbarium”, similar to an exotic plant, turns juicy green on the windowsill.

Is it possible to plant sprouted onion sets in the ground

Important! Many gardeners believe that sprouted onion sets are hopeless and are simply thrown away. But in fact, it may well be cultivated, and to the question: what can be done with sprouted onions, there is a simple answer - planted with the rest.

It should be noted that not all and not for its intended purpose:

1. If the bulb has sprouted slightly, it's okay - it is quite suitable for planting, like everyone else. After proper preparation, it will not let the arrows go and can please the harvest;
2. If the sprout is already large enough, the seedlings can be grown, but the turnip will no longer work from it - the plant will give everything to the aerial parts. It will fit on the greens, but the sprouts must be cut off before planting;
3. If the onion has an exorbitantly long sprout tail, and the bulbous part is dry and wrinkled, such an specimen is really hopeless. No measures will help, it should be thrown away.

Onion in the garden

Before planting, sprouted onions especially need processing - soaking in a special complex solution, in which it is saturated beneficial substances promoting healthy growth.

How to plant sprouted onions

Planting a sprouted set does not differ from the rest, regardless of whether the onion will be grown or on a feather:

• immediately before planting, germination is carried out by soaking;
• the bed should be at least 5 cm deep so that the sevok is 3-3.5 cm underground;
• the distance between each of the planted bulbs is from 10 to 12 cm;
• between the beds the interval is 25-30 cm.

Note! Before planting on greenery, it is imperative to cut off the sprouted top, it will grow even more magnificent and intensive, but you can’t even partially cut the root, otherwise the plant will die, even when it is completely healthy.

What to do if the onion sets are moldy

Stored in a too damp place, without access fresh air, onions, in addition to germination, can become moldy. It is quite simple to determine this - the head is covered with a powdery coating, bluish in color. If you press it with two fingers, it will be soft and wrinkle like a punched soccer ball, often accompanied by an unpleasant musty smell.

Important! Is it possible to plant sprouted and moldy onions? In this case, take one damage. Fungal spores will quickly spread through damp soil, destroying onions and infecting neighboring crops.

Sprouted onions, not dried out and not covered with mold, can be beneficial, and with a favorable set of circumstances, even a harvest. Therefore, do not despair, write off and throw away such a bow.

It so happened that I like to eat onions only in fresh, so this valuable vegetable is eaten quite a bit during the winter. Leek is another matter: it appears in many recipes, and I love to cook. It is difficult to buy such a bow in a store: it is sold very rarely. So I decided to grow leeks myself.

Last December, I went to the store for seeds. The choice of onions was very large, but the leek was represented by only one variety - "Karantansky". But I won't be myself if I don't grab a couple more packets of seeds I like. So I brought home the seeds of large onions "Exhibition", and red "Retro" and "Red Baron".

I have no experience with growing onions. I remember how, as a child, my grandmother sowed one bed with black onions, bulbs grew on the second (grown from last year's black onions), and bulbs for seeds stood apart.

I had to read and listen to the lectures of our local center for natural farming. In mid-February, I began to prepare the soil for onion seedlings. Since I didn’t stock up the soil since autumn, I had to buy 10 liters of ready-made universal peat soil, mix it with a soaked briquette (3 liters) coconut substrate and a liter of biohumus. I added half a glass of Radiance 2 bacteria there and, after good mixing, I packed it in a bag and left it to “ripen” for 3 weeks.

This is the picture we were shown in the center. Onion seedlings were grown in a container 4 cm high and in a bucket 10 cm high. The care was the same, but the onions grew differently.

Therefore, for my seedlings, I took deep disposable food packaging.

10th of March poured the already ripened soil and pressed it lightly. I made shallow grooves with a ruler with a distance of 2 cm between them.

Separately, I calculated how many “things” of onions I need for a 4-meter-bed in 2 or 3 rows. It turned out, about 70. Therefore, I sowed with a margin: 80 leek seeds and 26 of each variety of onion.

For a leek, she singled out a separate bowl, for a bulb - another. I sprinkled the planted seeds with earth by 0.5 cm. And then ... I boiled the kettle.

Lots of onion seeds essential oils, so shoots appear after the oils are washed off. This can be achieved by washing the seeds in warm water. But it is too lazy to wash 20-30 seeds, especially since they are treated with Tiram at Exhibition.

That's why I boiled the kettle. I poured boiling water into an ordinary ceramic glass and took an ordinary iron tablespoon. She scooped up boiling water with a spoon - and poured onions. Scooped up again - poured. I changed the spoon and continued watering.

To describe long, in practice - everything is very fast. Boiling water poured into a cold ceramic glass cools slightly, then we scoop this water with a cold spoon, and part of the heat goes to her, so the water cools down. I changed the spoon because it quickly heated up and the water could be too hot. In general, the water temperature should be 60-70°C.

After watering the onion, she closed it with a bag and put it on the warm floor in the bath.

March 17 the first loops appeared, and on March 26 there were already many shoots. They climbed out in even rows, like spears!

March 26, the germination of leek is excellent, "Exhibition" is also well done

Conditions of detention

Watering is carried out once a week. Together with watering I do top dressing: once with liquid biohumus "Humistar", next week - diluted with Radiance 2. Also once a week I sprayed with a biococktail: 1 granule of a Healthy Garden + 1 granule of Ecoberin + 1 drop of HB 101 per half liter of water.

The onion is on a rack illuminated with phytolamps during the day and is removed at night to a cold window. We have plastic window, however, it is very cold: at night the temperature on the windowsill is only 9 ° C, +15 during the day. This temperature is good for onions and cloves.

April 9- almost a month from the date of landing. Leek grows straight up under the phytolamp. Steadfast soldier.

Suddenly, the place on the rack ended and the bow moved to a permanent home to the window. See how he wants light and reaches for it.

Although the window is east, little light gets in, because of the visor of the roof, and the sun “shines” for only a couple of hours. I had to put in a reflector.

The rest of the care remains the same.

Landing in the ground

Spring was long, cold, I ran to our center every week natural farming and asked: well, when to plant in the ground? And now this moment has come!

May 10 The bed was loosened, the strings were stretched, and in loose and moist soil began to make holes for onions. Here I made a mistake: I did not look at the landing diagram for each bow separately. It turns out that "Retro" and "Red Baron" could be planted in 5-10 cm, and I "gave" him as much as 20 cm for growth.

I put bowls with onions in a bowl of water and drops of HB 101, soaked the roots. Then she took out the whole lump and “teared” the onion into separate plants.

This is an onion, small heads have grown, roots and a long feather, but you don’t need to plant such ones. I am shortening the feather and roots.

I plant neat green ponytails in the garden. For onion: a bed of 70 * 400 cm, 2 rows, between which there is root celery. I make a “hole” with a stick, lower the bow there so that the head is slightly visible above the ground, and all the roots look down, I press it with soil from the side. Everything. Simply and easily.

The leek went through the same pruning, but planted already according to the scheme of 3 rows and 15-20 cm between plants (by eye). Here I was confused by the words of many sites, which said that “it is necessary to plant in trenches, but do not deepen the bottom when landing. Then add soil."

Therefore, I made the same holes and poke seedlings. The husband said that he would then put the sides of the boards. (I had to take a receipt ...)

To protect the onion from flies, I poured sawdust into cups of yogurt and dripped a couple of drops of tar. I put 2 of these cups on each bed. So that the seals do not lie in my bow, I put arcs with covering material.

Spring went on as usual, for 2 weeks I did not touch the beds. After watering during planting, no more watering. Just sometimes I looked to see if the bows withered. But the weather was damp, cool and the onion was good.

May 27- planting eggplant seedlings on the nose. The bed was freed from the grown mustard and cut greens (chopped with pruners) mulched the bed with leek. I sprinkled Radiance2 under the mulch. By this time, the leek has matured and started to look like garlic. After a couple of days, I removed the covering material to close the eggplant seedlings.
By the way, onions got mustard a little later, but it was also mulched.

Summer Care

So, in early June, warming began and I began to water: once a week, on Saturdays, several buckets, or rather watering cans, per garden bed. The next morning, on moist soil, watered with herbal infusion.

For a 12 liter bucket (there is no barrel), a bunch of all kinds of grass, so that it takes up 2/3 of the container. I took weeds, mustard, nettles. I poured 0.5 cups of Radiance 3, 0.5 cups of diluted Radiance 1, 1 cup of sugar or old jam, a handful of Orgavit. Everything insisted from 4 days (in the heat), up to 1 week in cool weather. In a watering can for 8 liters of water, she diluted 100 ml of the finished infusion and watered the plants with rain. A couple of watering cans in the garden. Right on the mulch. Beneficial bacteria decomposed fresh organics literally before our eyes. The mustard had to be replaced with a coarser herb within a few weeks.

Every Monday I walked with a bucket through my plantings. In a bucket, I mixed loose biohumus and Orgavit, sometimes I added ash and mustard cake. I supplied cucumbers, strawberries, raspberries and leeks with such delicious nutrition, literally pouring a pinch under each plant. Be sure to make sure that at least 1-2 granules of Orgavit get in.

With such top dressing, already in the middle of summer, the leek grew thick.

The summer was very hot, in the sun - up to 46. Onions, although they love such a sun, need watering. They clearly did not have enough water, but despite this, "Exhibition" poured its golden sides, and relatives, looking at it, were surprised that it was grown from seeds.

Leek was a novelty for many neighbors, and I constantly explained that it was not garlic, but onions. She promised to serve.

In early August, onions were removed from the garden. Here it is, on the table.

"Red Baron" 12 onions, 794 g, 115 g - the most large onion. 66 g average weight bulbs :)
"Exhibition" 16 onions, 1715 u, 220 g - the largest, the average weight of the bulbs is 107 g.
"Retro" 9 onions, 618 g, the largest weighed 96 g, 68 g average weight.

The harvest, although small, is partly my fault: I didn’t water it, I didn’t feed it. And the land on the site after the previous owners is not very good :(

This is a leek, covered with a covering. Through the snow she reached the garden bed and touched the leaves - they froze. She burst into tears - so much work ... and everything froze.

The 4th of October- The snow has melted. The leek also came to life, I began to pull it. But he doesn't want to! I had to dig with a shovel. I have never seen such a brush of roots, raising 20 cm of earth behind it. And the stems themselves are oh so thick. Yes, bleaching failed. But the first time I planted!

Some bows even had babies.

And this one looks like a brownie in a dress :)

By the way, the onion easily breaks in the leg when digging, so I had to urgently eat 2 pieces.

The option with foil foam was not very good, as the leaves under it rotted and rotted.

She treated her neighbors, relatives, her 2 buckets of "soldiers" stand on a pillow of sand.

I tried it hot. Together with autumn vegetables- delicious! Yes, the "Exhibition" bow really does not bring tears. I chopped a huge onion into a salad without a single tear, and chopped a small head of "Stuttgarten Riesen" into borscht - I was all crying.

This is how I got my bow.

P.S. I also planted shallots from sevka in a separate bed. Planted in ridges, which crumbled during irrigation and the onion was exposed. I don’t know, but the shallots are supposed to be family-sized and give a lot of small onions, but this one grew into long cylinders the size of a palm.

Will I plant onion seedlings in next year? YES! And I’ll probably take into account the features of planting medium-sized bows, I’ll plant more often. I will also water more abundantly.

Growing high-quality onion heads from sets is quite simple, especially since the technology has many advantages. There is high productivity, rapid ripening of root crops, the release of arrows occurs less frequently than when growing turnips. With proper care, landing in open field causes no difficulty.

It is possible to sow sevok in the country in the northern regions, the Siberian regions and Novosibirsk. It is important to follow the rules of sowing, care properly and protect from frost.

The correct timing for planting onion sets in the open field

The optimal time for planting is end of April. early term due to the resistance of the culture to cold. Also used is the method of growing onions from sets planted before winter (in the second half of October).

Planting a set at a later time leads to a rapid drying of the top layer, as a result of which the soil quickly loses moisture accumulated over the winter. This negatively affects the rooting of the bulbs, which delays the emergence of seedlings. As a result, the root crops do not fully ripen.

In the Urals and in the regions of Siberia, the planting of sevka is planned from the beginning of May(from 5-10 numbers) when the soil temperature is from +7 degrees.

detain landing work not worth it, it will reduce the yield. But there is also no need to rush to throw planting material into unheated ground, this will lead to the release of arrows during the development of feathers.

How to grow and plant onions

The place for the beds is selected well lit sunbeams and ventilated. This is necessary for normal vegetation, to exclude the formation of rot and fungal diseases.

Suitable soil is light fertile with neutral or slightly acid medium. To reduce acidity, lime is introduced into the soil (up to 4-5 kg ​​per hundred square meters). Also suitable for this purpose: dolomite flour, wood ash, crushed chalk.

It is not worth breaking up beds at the place where garlic is grown, the land after a piquant crop is very depleted, which will reduce the onion yield. But after tomatoes, eggplants, pumpkins, cereals and potatoes, you can plant sevok.

When enriching the soil with fertilizers, it is not necessary to simultaneously introduce lime into it, as this leads to a significant decrease in the amount of nitrogen. And it is necessary for normal vegetation.

When preparing beds for onions in the fall, humus is applied to the site (up to 5 kg per m2). In the course of work, the earth is dug up to a depth 20 cm. Spring work begins with cleaning the area from debris and fertilizing the soil with minerals. Superphosphate (6 g/m2), urea (1 g/m2), potassium chloride (2 g/m2) are scattered over the soil and cultivated.

Compulsory preparatory stage is soil disinfection. To do this, 7 days before planting, it is watered with a solution blue vitriol(a tablespoon of funds per bucket of water).

Planting material also needs to be disinfected before planting. Proper preparation affects the yield and crop resistance to diseases and pests. Seed processing consists of the following steps:

• soaking in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (copper sulfate 0.35%);
• drying followed by 20 days storage at a temperature +20 degrees;
• warming up the heads for 10 hours at a temperature +40 degrees;
• seed treatment with a growth stimulator.

Onion sets are grown in several ways:

• spring;
• before winter;
• in a greenhouse;
• bridge method.

Spring in the garden

Spring landing is carried out according to the scheme:

• row spacing at manual processing beds - 25 cm(in the presence of a walk-behind tractor - 60-72 cm);
• distance between holes 5 to 10 cm;
• immersion depth - 3-4 cm.

The interval between the heads is selected depending on the diameter of the bulbs used: up to 10 mm, you need to indent 5 cm, up to 15 mm - 8 cm, over 15-20 mm - 10 cm.

After planting, the bed is mulched with a layer (2-3 cm) of peat, paper, sawdust or other suitable materials.

Under winter into the soil

The method of planting sevka before winter has several advantages:

• there is no need to ensure the storage conditions of sevka in winter period up to the middle of spring;
• early dates harvesting (in mid-July);
• by the time the pests appear, the culture is fully formed and strengthened.

In the vacated place, you can have time to grow a crop of some fruits with short period aging.

The peculiarity of choosing a place for a garden bed is the preference for a site located on a hill. There, the snow melts faster, and the stagnation of melt water is also excluded.

Departure times - from 5 to 20 October. Planting material should be properly prepared: calibrated, disinfected and warmed up. The scheme is used standard or with a narrow row spacing up to 15 cm. The insertion depth is 5 cm.

With the onset of cold weather, the surface of the beds is covered with mulching material. In the spring, the old protective layer must be removed.

in the greenhouse

Growing seedlings in a greenhouse involves a number of preparatory activities:

• disinfection of structural surfaces;
• loosening the soil;
• the introduction of humus (5 kg per 1 m2);
• fertilizer beds with mineral substances (superphosphate - 30 gr., Potassium chloride - 15 gr.);
• mixing and leveling the soil.

Seed material is selected with a diameter of 30-50 mm. Any bad material is rejected. in the second half of October according to the scheme:

• the distance between the heads is 20-25 cm;
• immersion depth - 4 cm.

A mulch of straw or sphagnum moss is lined over the beds up to 20 cm.

Spring work begins with the removal of mulch material before planting and growing. Further, fertilizers with nitroamophos are introduced twice (up to 15 g/m2). Irrigation is performed as needed. Actively begins to rise in mid-April-early May. When the height of the pen reaches 20 cm, the crop is harvested from the beds.

Bridge

This growing method onion on the pen is used more often on balconies or in small greenhouses. The essence of the technology is to deepen the sowing into the ground in one row on minimum score without spacing between heads. Thus, a bridge is obtained, which served as the name of the method.

Bulbs with a diameter of 3-5 cm are selected for growing in a bridge way. Care includes watering and weeding. The soil should be constantly moist, it is important to water in the right proportions on time.

• superphosphate and potassium chloride - 2 g / 10 l of water each;
• ammonium nitrate.

Bait is introduced on the 8th and 14th day of the growing season.

When it rises

When growing sevka on open ground with spring landing seedlings appear above the soil surface for 9-11 days. If planting work was carried out in October, then the first greenery breaks through, depending on weather conditions, most often this occurs in early to mid-April.

Greenhouse cultivation also guarantees different dates the emergence of seedlings, which is due to the type of design and the thermal conductivity of its surfaces. In the most ordinary polycarbonate greenhouse, you can see greenery breaking through from the ground in late February or early March.

When using the bridge method of growing sevka, you can get the first shoots 5-6 days after landing.

How to care and loosen

For the growing season, it is important to saturate the soil with oxygen, remove weeds from the beds, water the seedlings and introduce bait.

After the appearance of shoots above the soil surface, it is necessary loosen the soil every 2 weeks on the beds to prevent the formation of the earth's crust.

This process is often combined with weeding to remove weeds that create favorable conditions for disease and onion rot. In addition, such a neighborhood contributes to the formation of a thick neck, which subsequently makes it difficult to dry the crop.

Onions are among the crops that can do without supplements, but this is the case when the soil is fertile. Many gardeners use a 2-3 single bait regimen:

• 20-25 days after planting, the sowing is irrigated with a solution of manure (1 kg per bucket of water);
• loose application mineral fertilizers(urea, nitrophoska) before irrigation.

Watering the beds is carried out with strict control of the degree of soil moisture. The lack of moisture is just as unacceptable as its abundance. If you carefully observe the plant, you can understand what the the slightest change. Water should not be salty, if contaminated, you need to drain a little from the bucket.

The appearance of a bluish-white hue on the leaves indicates insufficient watering, and the paleness of the feathers indicates an abundance of moisture. The first couple of months, the sowing is irrigated weekly (7-8 liters per 1 m2). From July, the amount of water is reduced, and 3 weeks before harvesting it stops altogether.

200 grams of salt is taken per bucket of water, the amount of liquid is prepared at the rate of 300 ml per bush. The procedure is repeated 1 time in 3 weeks. If the treatment was ineffective, the concentration should be increased to 450 g / 10 l of water.

Is it afraid of frost and what temperature can it withstand

Onions are afraid of frost and night sub-zero temperatures. The air temperature during planting should be within +12 degrees, the soil at a depth of 10 cm - at least +5 degrees. planting material germinates at 4-5 degrees. Mature onions of specially selected varieties withstand frost down to -7 degrees, while sweet varieties die at -4 degrees.

When choosing a sevka, one should take into account climatic conditions region to give preference to the respective varieties.

Onion care is quite simple if done correctly. preparatory work. Monitoring the state of the plant's feather will be a hint, and the action plan will not let you forget about important procedures that guarantee a high yield.

Recording Correct fit and caring for onion sets in the open field first appeared on the farm.

Nowadays, more and more owners own gardens begin to use seeds for growing onions. Growing onions from seeds a great opportunity eventually get delicious vegetable, save the product in winter time and save on planting material. Seeds are much cheaper than onion sets or onion picks.

That is why today we will learn how to grow onions from seeds, or rather, we will find out when to plant seeds, how to do it and what is needed for a rich harvest.

How to plant onions with seeds and which variety to choose

Planting onions with seeds can be done in the following ways:

To begin with, onion sets are grown, and then onion turnips are grown; We immediately grow onion turnips from seeds, for which we sow in early spring; In winter, we plant our onion seeds.

In order to more accurately determine the method of planting and growing, you need to choose a seed variety. The sowing period and some other nuances also depend on this. In our country there are about 60 different varieties, which we will divide into 2 groups: with southern and northern origin. Which onion seeds to choose in your case?

Northern onion varieties need 16-17 hour longitude of the day to form the bulb, but southern species enough and 13-14 hour longitude of the day. Naturally, seeds of southern origin are more fond of warmth and when planted in northern latitudes may simply fail. Onions of northern origin have a sharp taste and a long shelf life, while southern seeds can be stored for a limited amount of time.

Choose from among Russian varieties we advise you to choose: Odintsovets, Rostovsky, Danilovsky, Myachkovsky, Arzamassky, Bessonovsky and Strigunovsky varieties. As foreign varieties, you can use: Densimor, Globo or Stuttgarter Riesen. Need a salad onion option? Then pay attention to the Karatal, Kabo, Lugansk and Krasnodar onion varieties.

Suitable timing for planting onions

Those gardeners who did not know how to grow onions from seeds in the first place did not understand when to sow the seeds, and this is extremely important nuance. It must be carried out in fertile soil.

If you are late with planting, then the seeds will germinate poorly, the harvest will be small, and the quality of the sowing will not be high enough. It is best to plant onion seeds in the last week of April, of course, if the weather in your area does not present any surprises.

To speed up the germination process, before sowing, for 4 days, it is necessary to soak the seeds in water with room temperature. We place the future bow in a bag of dense fabric (we do not fill it completely), tie it and lower it into a container of water for 35 hours. During this time, you need to change the water 3 times.

Next, the seeds of green onions or some other variety, we place on wet tissue and leave them in a warm place. As soon as the first sprouts appear, dry them, mix with chalk (for brightness) and start sowing.

Sowing onion seeds

It is best to carry out sowing by the tape method and for this we prepare a bed with a width of no more than 1 meter. It is important that the soil is as loose as possible, because otherwise, our seeds will not be able to break through. For the same reason, they should not be deepened and pressed too much.

To grow onions from seeds in one season, it is best to plant a seed to a depth of no more than 2 centimeters, and leave no more than 1.5 centimeters between them. It is important to comply with the norm, because the quantity and quality of the crop depends on it. A more rare sowing will lead to a large size of the sets, and if we plant the seeds too often, then a small set will appear and it will quickly germinate.

Next, we carefully close our grooves, compact the ground and remove all possible air chambers between the seed and the soil. We do not spare peat and humus for our beds and create an additional layer 2 cm thick. Now we carefully water the bed with onion seeds so as not to blur anything.

Once all the procedures have been completed, it is important to cover the bed with foil and thus create the desired air and water regime. We are waiting for the emergence of seedlings and remove our film.

Taking care of our crops

It is time to take care of the crops, and this is an equally important procedure that determines what our onions will be like. You should keep a close eye on the soil for dry crusting and weeds. If there are weeds at the time of germination, then the yield will decrease by 50%, and the ripening rate will noticeably drop. The soil crust on the ground leads to damage to the seedlings, which in turn harms the quality of the onion.

Often, onion seedlings with seeds are accompanied by too early emergence of weeds, removing which we can damage the seedlings. Wanting to avoid this, just take and add a little radish or lettuce when sowing the seeds. These cultures will quickly sprout and will serve as a guide for the location of onion buds. Once the bow will sprout everything else can be removed.

Below we have presented a photo of onion seeds, which will allow you to understand how it all looks and how growth should occur. As soon as 1-2 leaves appear on the seedlings, you can proceed to the thinning process. To do this, you need to process the most thickened places and leave 2 centimeters between the plants in them. The next thinning is carried out at the moment when there are 3-4 leaves on the shoots, but this time we leave 6 centimeters between the leaves.

Above we figured out when to plant onions with seeds, now it is important to remember when to thin out. In this matter, one cannot delay, since the density on the seedlings will slow down the entire growth process and as a result we will get small onions.

Watering should be carried out no more than 2 times a week, and then if the weather is dry outside. Onions need to be watered only in May and June, when the growing season is at its peak, but further water is not required, because the time has come for the bulb itself to ripen.

Summer residents know many ways how make onion seeds sprout faster. And the best part is that they all work. Here is just another effective experience, proven in practice.

I live in a small village, although the plot is small, everything I need grows there. I pay special attention to onions.

I really like to grow it from nigella (he, apparently, feels my attitude towards him and therefore it turns out good and large). I plant several varieties that I have selected for myself after many years of testing.

If I had a camera, I would send pictures of my luxurious bow.

And so you have to take my word for it. Some gardeners believe that it is too long and tedious to mess around and plant these "hairs". But personally, this method is interesting to me, because you can manage the crop.

And it’s more profitable than buying onion sets at 160-180 rubles per kilo (I also plant family bow, and onions for sets - Danilovsky, Stuttgarten - but not too much). Today I bought many other varieties, I will try.

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