Do-it-yourself ax from a spring. Detailed instructions for making a taiga ax - tips and rules. Create a cardboard template

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For those who live in own house, it is often necessary in the country and on hikes such a tool as a taiga ax. Work tool good quality is expensive and hard to find.

An ax from the market is not always of good quality. Therefore, we will make our own ax using improvised means.

Varieties of axes

Consider the variations of axes:

  • A cleaver is a heavy conical axe. Due to the large weight, it is well suited for cutting large, hard rock tree.
  • Carpentry - small weight and size, has a pointed blade. Used with careful, precise, neat work with wood.
  • Taiga - suitable for felling trees, harvesting trees, building a hut, removing bark, branches.
  • Tsalda - designed to clean the area from shrubs.
  • Kitchen (cooking) - designed only for chopping bones. It is a small hatchet, with a short handle and a large "blade".
  • Lesorubsky - used only for cutting trees. It consists of a long ax handle and a wide, sharp blade.

Of all the above species, the taiga ax is more necessary and more useful than all.

Distinctive features of the taiga ax:

  • Light weight.
  • A small area of ​​​​the piercing surface (makes it possible to drive it as deep as possible into the wood).
  • Specific sharpening of the blade (the rear edge is much smaller, thinner than the front.

This feature is designed to be used this species an ax like a cleaver (if the blow is struck correctly. A regular ax has a blade of the same shape for precise work with wood).

Making a taiga ax

Handle material

The function of the ax is primarily affected by its shape and length. The handle should be curved, and the section should be oval.

For the handle, species of trees such as maple, oak, ash, birch are best suited. Since these types of wood tolerate vibration well upon impact.

Wood harvesting starts in autumn

Dry in a dark place. Before use, wood must be stored for about one year, and preferably five.

Only felled wood is not advisable to use as it will dry out over time and will not hold in the eye.

Create a cardboard template

On a large cardboard sheet, we outline the shape of the handle and apply it to wooden blank. The template will help us make a more accurate handle.

Handle material preparation

A one-year-old wood block is hewn parallel to the fibers. The blank for the handle should be longer than the template. We make the place that is inserted into the eyelet wider than the main part.

On both sides we circle the attached drawing, while not forgetting to leave allowances. After that they inserted upper part into the eye, remove excess wood.

Steps to cut an ax handle

Before cutting the handle, you need to make transverse cuts, but so that they do not reach the line of the future handle by about 4-5 mm. With the help of a chisel, we remove the remains of wood and excess allowances.

Ore transitions and corners are performed by turning with a rasp. After the workpiece is done, we bring the sandpaper to smoothness.

Buying a stabbing part for a taiga hatchet

It is unrealistic to make a blade in a domestic setting. In this case, here is a list of what you need to focus on when buying it on the market or in a hardware store:

  • The presence of GOST marking (indicates the quality of steel);
  • The hole for the handle (eye) must be cone-shaped;
  • The blade is smooth, without defects;

Collecting an ax

  • We cut the upper part of the handle along and across.
  • Cut into five pieces of hard wood.
  • We wrap the top of the handle with gauze soaked in resin for better entry into the hole in the blade.
  • Using a hammer, drive in the handle.
  • Hammer the prepared pieces into the cuts at the top of the ax handle.
  • After the structure dries, cut off the protruding parts of the wooden pieces.

Note!

Sharpening the stabbing part of the taiga ax

A properly sharpened blade gives excellent performance of the hatchet. In accordance with the activity that you will perform with an ax, the sharpening angle depends.

The sharpening of the taiga ax is performed at an angle of 30-35 ̊. If they will perform work with fresh wood, then we sharpen at an angle of 25 ̊.

If you use for sharpening grinding wheel, then the ax handle must be held at an angle of 40-45 ̊. We reproduce the sharpening slowly, carefully.

If you have everything in stock the right tools, a photo step by step manufacturing ax, then its creation will not take a lot of time, effort and money, and in return you will receive a high-quality ax made by yourself.

But do not forget that with a piercing part made of high-quality metal, the ax will last much longer and if the handle is processed linseed oil, then it will not rot and deteriorate.

DIY ax photo

Note!

Note!


If you have some free time and an unnecessary spring from a truck or other car, then you can make a rather beautiful and unique knife with your own hands. Perhaps the first time it will not be completely perfect, but the main thing is that it is made by hand. The main charm of this homemade product is that the knife can be of almost any shape, you just need to turn on a little imagination.

Materials and tools for homemade:
Bulgarian;
truck spring;
file;
epoxy resin;
linseed oil.


Knife making process
Blade material can be obtained at any car market, sometimes cars can lose a spring right in the middle of the road. In this case, a spring from Kamaz is used. You can also take it from another car, in which case the thickness of the blade will be less, and it will not be necessary to reduce it manually.

Step 1. Material preparation
Using a grinder, the author cut it into three parts, since the part has different thickness and rounded shape, it is necessary to select the optimal part for this type of knife. That part of the spring, which is ideally suited for the blade, is sawn in half, as a result, there are two identical blanks.


Step 2. Knife shape
You need to take the workpiece and approximately divide it into two parts in half, the knife blade itself will be made from one half, the second half will go inside the handle. The part that will be in the handle needs to be cut off a little on both sides so that it becomes smaller and can fit in the handle.

Since the spring has a thickness of about 8 mm, and there are practically no such knives, you need to use emery long time remove the thickness to the desired. Then on the machine you need to shape the blade, it is desirable that there be a fine-grained stone, otherwise the knife will look rough and a little not neat.

















Step 3. Creating the handle
You need to take a small wooden block(pay special attention to the choice of wood for the handle) and carve the handle of the desired shape, in this case you need to use your imagination and imagine how you want to see your future knife. With the help of a drill and a file, a place is prepared for that part of the blade that should be in the handle. For better fastening you can use epoxy resin.
The author decided to make a combined handle using rubber, birch bark and birch burl.






















Cut off the excess and grind ...






After carrying out all the procedures, you need to process the handle. You will need linseed oil, heated in a water bath to a temperature of 70-75 degrees. The knife must first be hidden in freezer for 30 - 40 minutes. When a cold knife and warm oil are combined, bubbles begin to run along the handle, so the air comes out of the wood, and this place is filled with linseed oil. This procedure must be done several times. After that, the knife handle is placed in oil for at least a day.




Step 4 Making the Scabbard
You will need a small piece of leather, you need to make a pattern according to the shape of the knife. With the help of an awl, holes are made (since the skin is a very hard material), and then the parts are sewn together with an ordinary strong thread.




Conclusion
From an automobile spring you can get a very beautiful and quality knife. In order for the blade to cut well, you need to make an angle cutting edge about 35 degrees, in this case, it will work well with wood, and cut various small items.

Since the knife is made of heavy metal, its weight is not small, but in use it is rather a plus. No need to make a primitive pen, you can show a little imagination and give it unusual shape, so it immediately becomes clear that the blade is really unique and made by hand. This knife is perfect for hiking.

The taiga ax is special kind tool that has a lot of differences from the usual carpentry tool, which can be found in the house of every owner. good tool very hard to find and expensive, so we will make best ax do it yourself from conventional materials. Next, we consider the main differences, features, characteristics of the product and step by step instructions its manufacture.

Characteristics of the taiga ax and what it should be

Since the parameters of the ax handle and blade are very different from the usual sizes of “household” axes and will seem unusual to many, you first need to decide what tasks can be solved with this miracle device:

  • Tree felling. Felling at a sawmill, sanitary felling or logging for a log house - this is exactly what this ax was made for.
  • Rough work with logs (precisely rough!). Suitable for delimbing, grooving, removing thick bark and the like.
  • Ax "for survival". Lightweight hunting tool, suitable for quickly creating bags and trapping animals.
  • Construction of huts, decking, wooden houses « fast food". There will be no hut built without an ax handle, and with its help you can cope 4 times faster than when working with a carpenter's ax blade.
  • Work with firewood. If accuracy is a secondary concern, then this tool is perfect for the job.

If you want to make a tool for fine work, then it would be better to consider forged axes with a straight long blade. When cutting a tree, they are of little use, but the accuracy is very high. In addition to the quality of the “cut”, there are many more differences between the taiga ax and the usual one.

Rounded blade shorter . The ax is much lighter than usual, and a small area working surface allows you to dig it much deeper into the wood, suitable for cutting wood across the grain. The tool is much easier to carry (the handle and head together weigh no more than 1400 grams).

Having a long beard . Its main task is to protect the wooden part from breaking under strong impacts. Up to 60% of the impact force is absorbed. But it does not protect against blows on logs - this is a delusion, since special shape the blade already performs this function.

Special Ax Sharpening . The rear edge of the blade is almost 2 times thinner than the front. This is done for the purpose of using the ax as a cleaver (when properly struck). AT conventional instrument the edge has the same thickness for high precision work.

Special tilt angle . The head of the taiga ax forms a much smaller angle with the ax handle. This allows you to increase work efficiency, relieves hand fatigue and increases productivity when cutting trees. The blow becomes much stronger than with a carpenter's ax, where the head and blade are placed at an angle of 90 degrees. All taiga axes handmade they try to do it with an angle of 75-65 degrees - this is their main difference.

Use ordinary circles for sharpening, since it can be very diverse. The main thing is to observe the difference in the thickness of the leading and trailing edges, since it is it that affects the productivity of the forester.

Do-it-yourself taiga ax - we make the head of the tool

It will not work to forge or pour a metal part at home, so let's go the simplest way and in a few steps we will make a taiga ax from an ordinary joiner's ax.

STEP 1: we take an old metal head from an ax, the weight of which is approximately 1400-1600 grams ( best option) and cut down the front ledge of the blade flush with the butt. 5-8 degree protrusion allowed, but it's better to remove it if you need the right axe.

STEP 2: make the back of the blade rounded, cut down the metal so that the entire touch surface is without corners. This can be done using ordinary grinder or emery wheel with a medium grain.

STEP 3: we cut out a semicircle in the inner part of the blade. It is necessary for a comfortable grip of the ax if it is necessary to plan something or for more precise work. With this form of an ax, you can pull up small logs or hang an ax on a branch of a tree. In addition, you can reduce the weight of the head by 150-200 grams.

STEP 4: cut off the upper corners of the butt. This will reduce the weight and increase the maneuverability of the tool. This operation can be omitted if the ax suits you.

Now it remains only to choose how to sharpen the ax. It is very important to use a low-speed tool (grinder can not be used!). Sanding machine with a large circle and medium grain - perfect option. Sharpening must be double-sided and with a moderately sharp edge (a very sharp one will die on the first tree).

We make an ax handle with our own hands

Do not neglect the handle for the ax, because it is it that affects the comfort of work. The holder must be balanced, comfortable, well ground and with the correct geometry so as not to injure the hands of the worker.

First of all, you need to choose right wood on an ax handle. The first and easiest option is pine. It is very easy to sharpen and grind, but is unreliable due to its high brittleness. You can use birch - the best option and very affordable wood, which is easy to find. Maple and clear - ideal, but it is very difficult to make a handle from such wood in some latitudes.

The size of the ax can be at your discretion, a handle with a length of 50 to 70 centimeters (universal size) is recommended for the cleaver. Hiking option - 40 centimeters, but it is quite difficult to cut down trees and chop firewood. If the work with an ax involves only splitting chocks, then the handle can be increased to 120 centimeters - excellent impact power and productivity, but you lose in the comfort of use. Next, consider the step-by-step instructions for making an ax handle.

STEP 1: we select a wooden blank. The chock should be 20 centimeters longer, and its diameter should be at least 12 cm. Without knots, rotten areas, deformations and other defects that may be present on the tree.

STEP 2: wood drying. First you need to clean everything from the bark and split the chock in the middle. It is desirable to withstand a couple of months at + 22-25 degrees and 15% humidity. Do not heat it or keep it damp - this will only worsen the properties of the wood after drying, besides, it can be deformed.

STEP 3: give shape to the ax handle. First, you can remove everything superfluous with a hatchet or a large knife, and all “jewelry work” is done with a chisel and a small hammer. If this is your first DIY pen and you still don't know how to make an axe, then the process will take several hours, you need to check the drawings. A more experienced person will be able to plan an ax by eye in 20-30 minutes. You should end up with something like this handle:

STEP 4: now you need to plant the ax handle and fix it. You can use gauze and epoxy resin- tested option. After 2-3 days the tool is completely ready for use. To be sure, after planting the ax handle, you can hammer in a wedge - this will be more reliable.

STEP 5: polishing and varnishing. The hatchet needs to be processed with high quality sandpaper and open with anti-corrosion mixtures so that the wood is not damaged over time. Now the tool will be even more beautiful!

Now you just have to find out what sharpening is with your own hands. It is necessary to sharpen the ax handle on the machine or do it manually and you can go to test the tool. True connoisseurs can still make a leather case with their own hands. A piece of leather 30 by 30 centimeters, an awl and nylon threads is all you need. Now the tool will have a solid appearance and it will not be a shame to give it!

Details on how to taiga ax you can take a look here:

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