Homemade tambourine. How to make a tambourine. Technological stages of creating a tambourine. Shamanism as a religion

Anyone who is going to practice shamanic rites should remember that a shamanic tambourine is not just an ordinary musical instrument, but a means for summoning spirits and traveling to Parallel Worlds. According to ancient beliefs, on a tambourine, as on a horse, a shaman can get into the upper world, where they live good spirits, or visit the lower world - the abode of evil spirits - using this tool as a boat in order to swim across the underground river. Therefore, it is very important to learn how to make a tambourine with your own hands.

How to make a shaman tambourine

In order to make a tambourine at home, you need to stock up on the following materials: veneer, animal skin (skin), epoxy, plastic bag, barrel or plywood, glue and boards. Even if you had no idea how to make a shaman tambourine before, after that just follow these recommendations:

The technology for making shaman tambourines is not complicated. You should choose the right wood for the rim of your tambourine. IN primitive tribes for this, the blindfolded shaman went to the forest. Spirits directed him to a certain tree, from the wood of which he made a tambourine. Now it is unlikely that anyone will perform such rituals, so just think about which tree you like best and is a carrier of positive energy for you. After that, purchase veneer of the appropriate breed;
You need to take a barrel or cylinder made of plywood. This will serve as the base on which to glue your rim. The veneer must be wrapped around the base in several rows until it becomes very strong. Use as glue epoxy resin;
The skin of the animal must also be carefully chosen, because it is this animal that you will turn into while traveling through other worlds. Once you've made your choice, purchase the hide from the fabric department, leather goods store, or tailor shop;
The skin must be soaked excess moisture did not hit the rim of the tambourine. To do this, it is better to close the areas in contact with the skin with a plastic bag. The skin can be attached with both glue and nails;
Attach a wooden cross to the rim from the inside with glue or tie with tensioned straps. It will be very convenient to hold on to it during shamanic rituals.

It would seem that it could be easier than a shaman's tambourine! But the fact is that this is not just a piece of wood covered with leather, but this is a living creature, whether we admit it or not, otherwise it will not work!

The tambourine is much more complicated than many people think. It symbolizes the sky. By activating certain parts of the drum, you activate the sun, moon, or stars above you. And they activate the tambourine in a certain way. You have to live with your tambourine to feel it.

The tambourine, which the shaman holds in his hands, is a simple design in itself. wooden frame over which a leather membrane is stretched. Various images are often applied to the membrane itself.

And since the shamanic culture is now of great interest all over the world, many people want to have their own shamanic tambourine. Many try to make a tambourine on their own, since there are instructions on the Internet. But will such a tambourine be a real shamanic tambourine? It turns out - no.

A real shaman tambourine is not just a musical instrument.

The shaman tambourine is a ritual item. And it is a living being. A real "horse" for him, on which the shaman travels in the world of spirits.

A shaman tambourine can only be made by a shaman, a person who sees and feels spirits. Birth ritual tambourine- a process that is completely controlled by the spirits of the subtle world. After all, with the help of this tool, he will help people, convey their will.

It all starts with the fact that the animal, from whose skin the tambourine will be made, itself comes to give its life. While the master is making a tambourine, the spirit of this animal is nearby. And when the tambourine is ready, the shaman performs a ceremony in which the spirit of this animal settles inside his tambourine. And the tambourine comes to life.

It turns out that such a shaman's tambourine?

This round product, in which the spirit of the animal lives, from which this tambourine is made. And this spirit is tamed by a shaman.

When the shaman starts his ritual, starts talking to the tambourine, starts beating the butt on the membrane, he will wake up the spirit of this animal inside the tambourine. The spirit wakes up, the shaman rides on the spirit of the animal, and he takes the shaman to any of the worlds, where he needs to go. And the shaman sees where he is taking him, that is, he communicates with him.

We wrote earlier about those that are called with the help of a tambourine.

When a common person who studies shamanism, buys himself an ordinary tambourine in a store or from a private craftsman, and begins to perform shamanic rites with this instrument, then he himself, without realizing it, can harm both people and himself. After all, for example, if he treats diseases, without a faithful “horse” that knows the way in the subtle plane, then he can literally “get lost” in the subtle worlds, and the spirits of diseases can “devour” him himself. And not only will he not help the person, but he himself will get sick or go crazy. This can happen when people go into a trance, for example through drugs. When a person does not choose and does not control his "route" on a journey through the subtle worlds.

So only a real shaman who communicates with spirits can make a real live shamanic tambourine with his own hands.

A tambourine purchased in a store, or one that you made yourself according to a sketch from the Internet, will be just a musical instrument.

Alla Gromova is a student of Kudai Kam, a hereditary Siberian shaman, she not only creates protection for a person, but also teaches shamanism a large number of of people. Only at the shamanic seminar you can get real tambourine a shaman in which the spirit lives. And Alla Gromova teaches this spirit to obey its new owner. Already many students of Alla Gromova around the world have become the owners of such a strong assistant as a living shaman tambourine, a very strong object of power. And we learned how to deal with it. If you want to become the owner of a real shaman drum and learn how to work with it, come to the next shaman seminar. .

Help people and be happy!

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The musician, playing the tambourine or drum, becomes the center of the world and the nucleus of a new life, whatever it may be. (C. P. Estes)

Varieties

Currently, there are 2 main types of tambourines:

Folk or ethnic, wooden rim with stretched leather membrane. Depending on the purpose, tambourines come in various sizes. Tools of this type are used for ritual purposes by indigenous shamans. Also popular are tambourines with small bells tied to a wire stretched under the membrane.

Orchestral tambourine, the most common option, with a leather or plastic membrane and metal plates, reinforced in special slots on the rim. This tool is sometimes erroneously referred to as tambourine. The instrument has firmly established itself in professional music, becoming one of the main percussion instruments of the symphony orchestra.

The tambourine is one of the oldest instruments. That is why its design is simple - in any case, when compared with the piano. Nevertheless, the tambourine has both deep musical expressiveness and magical properties.

Tambourine making.

So, today we will make a tambourine. For this we need: leather, rim and ~ 2 meters of rope. Leather. To make a tambourine, we need two raw goat skins. It will be best material. If you did not find goat skins, then take any available skin of a killed animal.

Leather processing.

The first step is to soak the skin. The skin is placed in a bucket or cup of water at a temperature of 18-22°C and a liquid ratio of 1:10. The weight of the skin should be converted to kilograms and multiplied by 10 - this will be the required amount of water in liters. The duration of the process is 20-24 hours. The water will need to be changed several times, and the skin should be kneaded every 4 hours.

Mezdrenie.

The next stage of processing is to clean off the remains of fat and muscle from the skin. This is enough laborious process. You will need a wooden shield, on which you need to nail the skin around the perimeter with small nails. Next, you pick up something like a chisel or a joint knife with a wide sharp blade and begin to remove fat from the skin. Note! Mining is carried out from the "inner" side of the skin, that is, where there is no hair. You have to be careful not to damage the skin.

Dehairing.

Now the hairline is removed from the skin. To do this, you will need chemical reagents (Ca (OH) 2 and Na2S. The first of them is slaked lime, which is used for whitewashing. It can be easily found in a hardware store. I personally could not find sodium sulfide, so my tambourine remained slightly “hairy ".
But suppose you find both. Operations with chemicals should be carried out outdoors and in rubber gloves. To prepare a mixture for dehairing, dilute 75 g of sodium sulfide in 1 liter of water. Lime must be added to this mass until the solution reaches the consistency of sour cream. After that, the solution must be applied to the core (the part from which you scraped off the fat) and left for 8 hours. During the reaction will be released bad smell hydrogen sulfide. After the end of this process, it is necessary to check the strength of the hairline. If it separates easily, then it must be completely removed, after which the skin should be thoroughly rinsed in water.

Gilding.

It is necessary to weigh the resulting hide in kilograms and multiply by 5. The resulting number shows how many liters of water you need. For each liter, you need to add 15 g of sodium sulfide. The temperature of the solution should be 18-22 ° C. Gilding lasts 30-35 hours. Every 5 hours, the solution must be stirred for 3 minutes. After finishing the ashing, the skin should be washed in running water within 1.5-2 hours. Anesthesia. For this process, we need another reagent - ammonium sulphate ((NH4) 2SO4).
It is necessary to take ammonium sulfate in an amount of 1.5% by weight of the skin and dilute it in water at 30-32 ° C. The amount of water in liters is equal to the weight of the skin in kg multiplied by 3.5. Anesthesia lasts 1-1.5 hours with stirring every 15 minutes for one minute. After all this, rinse the skin in running water for 30-40 minutes. Drying. If you are preparing the skin for making tambourines or anything else, then you need to dry it. If you are going to make a tambourine right away, then this process can be skipped. So dry. Stretch the skin wooden shield and beat with small nails. When it dries, store it in this position without folding or bending.

Making a hoop.

The blanks for the rim are determined by the circle length formula: X=2R, where: L is the circumference, (pi) is 3.14, and R is the radius of the small circle. In a simplified version, you can use a thin rope or thread, carefully spreading it around the entire small circle, and then take measurements with a ruler or tape measure.
Having received the size of the future rim (in each case, individual), you can start searching for the right wood. Deciduous trees are considered suitable. In our case, birch will be used. This tree grows almost everywhere and is easy to process. To make a rim, you need a barrel young tree, with a diameter of 10-15 cm and a length, equal to the length the future hoop (but it is best that the workpiece is 5-10 cm larger).
The log must be sawn into boards 1.5 centimeters thick, and then a blank for the rim should be cut from a suitable board with the following dimensions: the length is equal to the length of the hoop, the width is 7-8 cm, the thickness is 0.8-1 cm. After that, the bar should be placed into water (a stream or pond is suitable for this purpose) and soak it for 6-7 days before making a rim. Traditionally, the board is boiled in boiling water, but this requires specific devices and not everyone can do it, and therefore we will deviate from the classical technology.
In order to make a rim from the resulting bar, you need a matrix (template). It can be made in two ways: 1. you should take a cross cut 17-20 cm high from the butt of a large tree and, drawing the circumference of the future rim on it, cut down the protruding edges with an ax. The exact same matrix can be made from boards with a thickness of 5-6 cm. In addition to this, it will be necessary a metal sheet length equal to the length of the hoop, width - 13-15 cm and thickness - 3 mm.
Along the entire length of this sheet, stepping back from the edges by 2 cm, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 5 mm in increments of 3 cm. When everything is ready, you should take a matrix, a well-soaked bar, a metal sheet and nails 100-120 mm long. Aligning the ends of the sheet and plank ki, put them on the matrix and hammer nails into the first pair of holes. The entire structure should be oriented so that the metal sheet evenly rounds the matrix, and the bar is located inside.
Nails must be driven into the matrix strictly in pairs, without missing holes. At the same time, the bar should bend slowly. It is necessary to ensure that the process proceeds evenly, and the bar is pressed tightly against the matrix. After all the nails are hammered, the resulting structure should be dried well. Drying time is determined individually in each case, but it is better to overdry than not dry out, as a raw plank can straighten out.
You can disassemble the matrix only after it dries. The ends of the resulting hoop are connected using an overlay. To do this, you need to cut grooves from both ends of it. The joints should be well adjusted to each other and fastened with small nails, additionally smearing the joint with glue. Rivets can also be used instead of studs. Now it remains to align the edges of the rim and sand its inner and outer side sandpaper
For weather protection, the rim is usually covered with drying oil, stain or waterproof varnish. 4. Assembly The last stage in the manufacture of a tambourine is carried out as follows. You need to take both dressed skins (they should be kept dry and in a stretched state), choose from them the one that will be the membrane of the tambourine, and soak in water at room temperature for 10-12 hours.
The second skin should be cut along the ridge into strips about 0.5 cm wide (it is better to do this with scissors) and also soak in water. The resulting straps will tighten the membrane, and the handle of the tambourine will be made from them. It is important that the skin fibers are well saturated with water (moistened). When the skin is ready, it needs to be slightly wrung out and spread on a table or a suitable flat surface skin up. Then take the finished hoop, put it on top and align with the center of the skin. At a distance of 0.5 mm from the edges of the skin and 4-5 cm apart sharp knife or with an awl around the entire perimeter, make holes with a diameter of 0.3 cm.
In addition, we need a fairly strong metal or plastic ring with a diameter of 5-7 cm and several meters of packing twine or twine. The twine must be cut into pieces of such a size that it is possible to tie one end to the edge of the skin, and to strengthen the second on the ring (see Fig. 117). Having done this with the first pair of opposite holes, we stretch the twine well and move on to the next opposite pair.
Thus, you need to connect all the paired holes. During operation, periodically moisten the skin with water, as when it dries, it shrinks in size. Now, stepping back from the edge of the rim 2-4 cm, you need to draw two circular rows of dots (future holes) so that they are located one above the other. The distance between the rows and between the holes is 2 cm. After that, we remove the skin from the rim and make holes with a diameter of 0.3 cm in the places marked with dots. Cut off uneven edges with twine attachment points, stepping back 1 cm from a small concentric row of holes. Now the edge of the skin needs to be folded inward so that the holes match, and stitched with a strap, while another strap needs to be laid in the formed crease. Release the ends of both straps so that they can then be pulled together and tied tightly.

It remains to insert the rim into the resulting structure, and alternately tightening the ends of the straps, to achieve maximum membrane tension. In order to make a tambourine handle, you need to divide inside tambourine into 8 equal sectors and make 8 holes with a diameter of 0.3 cm in places where the internal tightening belt passes, so as not to damage it. After this is done, the resulting tambourine can be dried at room temperature.

Now you need to connect all 8 opposite holes with straps in pairs, and tie the ends of such an extension so that the knots are exactly in the center of the tambourine. Then, starting from the center, tightly, coil to coil, we wrap the two adjacent extensions with a strap. At the same time, the stretch marks converge, and the future handle begins to stretch. In a similar way, you need to cross-link all 4 pairs of stretch marks and, changing the number of turns on them, adjust the degree of tension and the symmetry of the handle. To make the tambourine comfortable to hold, we make a small pillow for the hand. To do this, we wrap the cross with a strip of suede 1.5 cm wide. The length of such a tape in each case will be individual. The size of the pad should be such that it fits comfortably in the hand. It should be wound in such a way that the first turns form a regular square the size of a future pillow, and the subsequent ones gradually decrease, overlapping the previous turns by about half.
Converging towards the center, they should form a kind of layers. When the turns of the tape converge in the center, a cross-shaped pattern is formed. In order to finish it, the excess end of the leather strip must be cut off, and the remaining end must be sewn to the previous turn with a thread. Observing the symmetry and uniformity of the stitches, the same thing follows with three more pairs of turns, forming a braid in the center.

material taken from the book "Shamanic Healing" Olard Dixon

The tambourine reacts naturally to moisture environment. If the sound of the tambourine has changed, become higher or lower, i.e. the skin is tight or sagging, you can moisturize or dry it accordingly. For humidification, it is best to bring into the room with high humidity either briefly hold over the steam or wipe with a damp cloth. To dry, you should carefully warm the tambourine over the entire surface, for example, holding it over with a heater or candles, or even electric light bulb, bonfire. During the tuning process, you should stroke the skin and check the pitch, achieving the desired tone. The skin does not require special care, but for greater elasticity, you can lubricate it on both sides with burdock oil (sold in pharmacies). The same is for tambourines with fur. We also recommend treating them with any moth remedy, especially if the tambourine has not been used for a long time and is not ventilated.

Impregnation against dampness for a tambourine:

Joiner's glue (preferably fish glue) is diluted with liquid water 1:15, 1:20.
It is applied with a brush at a positive temperature in a THIN LAYER with an interval of 12 hours for 10 days.

The musician, playing the tambourine or drum, becomes the center of the world and the nucleus of a new life, whatever it may be. The tambourine is one of the oldest instruments. Therefore, its design is simple - at least when compared with the piano. Nevertheless, the tambourine has both deep musical expressiveness and magical properties.

Making a tambourine

So, today we will make a tambourine. For this we need: leather, rim and ~ 2 meters of rope. Leather. To make a tambourine, we need two raw goat skins. This will be the best stuff. If you did not find goat skins, then take any available skin of a killed animal.

Leather processing.
The first step is to soak the skin. The skin is placed in a bucket or cup of water at a temperature of 18-22°C and a liquid ratio of 1:10. The weight of the skin should be converted to kilograms and multiplied by 10 - this will be the required amount of water in liters. The duration of the process is 20-24 hours. The water will need to be changed several times, and the skin should be kneaded every 4 hours.

Mezdrenie.

The next stage of processing is to clean off the remains of fat and muscle from the skin. This is a rather laborious process. You will need a wooden shield, on which you need to nail the skin around the perimeter with small nails. Next, you pick up something like a chisel or a joint knife with a wide, sharp blade and begin to scrape off fat from the skin. Note! Skinning is carried out from the "inner" side of the skin, that is, where there is no hair. You have to be careful not to damage the skin.

Dehairing.

But suppose you find both. Operations with chemicals should be carried out in the open air and in rubber gloves. To prepare a mixture for dehairing, dilute 75 g of sodium sulfide in 1 liter of water. Lime must be added to this mass until the solution reaches the consistency of sour cream. After that, the solution must be applied to the core (the part from which you scraped off the fat) and left for 8 hours. During the reaction, an unpleasant odor of hydrogen sulfide will be released. After the end of this process, it is necessary to check the strength of the hairline. If it separates easily, then it must be completely removed, after which the skin should be thoroughly rinsed in water.

Gilding.

It is necessary to take ammonium sulfate in an amount of 1.5% by weight of the skin and dilute it in water at 30-32 ° C. The amount of water in liters is equal to the weight of the skin in kg multiplied by 3.5. Anesthesia lasts 1-1.5 hours with stirring every 15 minutes for one minute. After all this, rinse the skin in running water for 30-40 minutes. Drying. If you are preparing the skin for making tambourines or anything else, then you need to dry it. If you are going to make a tambourine right away, then this process can be skipped. So dry. Stretch the skin on a wooden shield and nail it with small nails. When it dries, store it in this position without folding or bending.

Making a hoop.

The blanks for the rim are determined by the formula for the circumference: X=2R, where: L is the circumference, (pi) is 3.14, and R is the radius of the small circle. In a simplified version, you can use a thin rope or thread, carefully spreading it around the entire small circle, and then take measurements with a ruler or tape measure.

Having received the size of the future rim (in each case, individual), you can start searching for the right wood. Deciduous trees are considered suitable. In our case, birch will be used. This tree grows almost everywhere and is easy to process. For the manufacture of the rim, you will need a trunk of a young tree, with a diameter of 10-15 cm and a length equal to the length of the future hoop (but it is best that the workpiece is 5-10 cm larger).

The log must be sawn into boards 1.5 centimeters thick, and then a blank for the rim should be cut from a suitable board with the following dimensions: the length is equal to the length of the hoop, the width is 7-8 cm, the thickness is 0.8-1 cm. After that, the bar should be placed into water (a stream or pond is suitable for this purpose) and soak it for 6-7 days before making a rim. Traditionally, the board is boiled in boiling water, but this requires specific devices and not everyone can do it, and therefore we will deviate from the classical technology.
In order to make a rim from the resulting bar, you need a matrix (template). It can be made in two ways: 1. you should take a cross cut 17–20 cm high from the butt of a large tree and, drawing the circumference of the future rim on it, cut the protruding edges with an ax. The exact same matrix can be made from boards with a thickness of 5–6 cm. In addition, you will need a metal sheet with a length equal to the length of the hoop, a width of 13-15 cm and a thickness of 3 mm.

Along the entire length of this sheet, stepping back from the edges by 2 cm, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 5 mm in increments of 3 cm. When everything is ready, you should take a matrix, a well-soaked bar, a metal sheet and nails 100-120 mm long. Aligning the ends of the sheet and plank ki, put them on the matrix and hammer nails into the first pair of holes. The entire structure should be oriented so that the metal sheet evenly rounds the matrix, and the bar is located inside.

Nails must be driven into the matrix strictly in pairs, without missing holes. At the same time, the bar should bend slowly. It is necessary to ensure that the process proceeds evenly, and the bar is pressed tightly against the matrix. After all the nails are hammered, the resulting structure should be dried well. Drying time is determined individually in each case, but it is better to overdry than underdry, as a raw plank can straighten out.

You can disassemble the matrix only after it dries. The ends of the resulting hoop are connected using an overlay. To do this, you need to cut grooves from both ends of it. The joints should be well adjusted to each other and fastened with small nails, additionally smearing the joint with glue. Rivets can also be used instead of studs. Now it remains to align the edges of the rim and sand its inner and outer sides with sandpaper
For weather protection, the rim is usually covered with drying oil, stain or waterproof varnish. 4. Assembly The last stage in the manufacture of a tambourine is carried out as follows. You need to take both dressed skins (they should be kept dry and in a stretched state), choose from them the one that will be the membrane of the tambourine, and soak in water at room temperature for 10-12 hours.

The second skin should be cut along the ridge into strips about 0.5 cm wide (it is better to do this with scissors) and also soak in water. The resulting straps will tighten the membrane, and the handle of the tambourine will be made from them. It is important that the skin fibers are well saturated with water (moistened). When the skin is ready, it needs to be slightly squeezed out and spread on a table or a suitable flat surface with the skin up. Then take the finished hoop, put it on top and align with the center of the skin. At a distance of 0.5 mm from the edges of the skin and 4-5 cm apart, make holes with a diameter of 0.3 cm around the entire perimeter with a sharp knife or awl.

In addition, we need a fairly strong metal or plastic ring with a diameter of 5-7 cm and several meters of packing twine or twine. The twine must be cut into pieces of such a size that it is possible to tie one end to the edge of the skin, and to strengthen the second on the ring (see Fig. 117). Having done this with the first pair of opposite holes, we stretch the twine well and move on to the next opposite pair.

Thus, you need to connect all the paired holes. During operation, periodically moisten the skin with water, as when it dries, it shrinks in size. Now, stepping back from the edge of the rim 2-4 cm, you need to draw two circular rows of dots (future holes) so that they are located one above the other. The distance between the rows and between the holes is 2 cm. After that, we remove the skin from the rim and make holes with a diameter of 0.3 cm in the places marked with dots. Cut off uneven edges with twine attachment points, stepping back 1 cm from a small concentric row of holes. Now the edge of the skin needs to be folded inward so that the holes match, and stitched with a strap, while another strap needs to be laid in the formed crease. Release the ends of both straps so that they can then be pulled together and tied tightly.

It remains to insert the rim into the resulting structure, and alternately tightening the ends of the straps, to achieve maximum membrane tension. In order to make the handle of the tambourine, you need to divide the inner side of the tambourine into 8 equal sectors and make 8 holes with a diameter of 0.3 cm in places where the internal tightening belt passes, so as not to damage it. After this is done, the resulting tambourine can be dried at room temperature.

Converging towards the center, they should form a kind of layers. When the turns of the tape converge in the center, a cross-shaped pattern is formed. In order to finish it, the excess end of the leather strip must be cut off, and the remaining end must be sewn to the previous turn with a thread. Observing the symmetry and uniformity of the stitches, the same thing follows with three more pairs of turns, forming a braid in the center.

material taken from the book "Shamanic Healing" Olard Dixon

The tambourine reacts naturally to environmental humidity. If the sound of the tambourine has changed, become higher or lower, i.e. the skin is tight or sagging, you can moisturize or dry it accordingly. For humidification, it is best to bring it into a room with high humidity or hold it over steam for a short time or wipe it with a damp cloth. To dry, you should carefully warm the tambourine over the entire surface, for example, holding it over a heater or candles, or even a light bulb, a fire. During the tuning process, you should stroke the skin and check the pitch, achieving the desired tone. The skin does not require special care, but for greater elasticity, you can lubricate it on both sides with burdock oil (sold in pharmacies). The same - for tambourines with fur. We also recommend treating them with any moth remedy, especially if the tambourine has not been used for a long time and is not ventilated.

Impregnation against dampness for a tambourine:

Joiner's glue (preferably fish glue) is diluted with liquid water 1:15, 1:20.
It is applied with a brush at a positive temperature in a THIN LAYER with an interval of 12 hours for 10 days.

According toradio.obozrevatel.com , musical instruments are very important for the harmonious and comprehensive development of the child, the formation of a sense of rhythm and coordination of movements.

A do-it-yourself tambourine will help the baby with early age develop musical skills. Listening to children's songs, form in the crumbs the ability to play along with the melody on the tambourine.

The bells will make a melodic ringing as the tambourine moves in the child's hand. It can be shaken expressively or gently rocked from side to side, sound effect turns out different.

Because in the manufacture musical instrument use decorative bells, it should be given to children over three years old, and also allowed to play only under adult supervision.

It should also be noted that musical toys for children are used in many therapies against stuttering, speech stumbling and excessive nervousness of the child. Needless to say, children's educators, psychologists and psychotherapists have long realized the full benefits of these cute fun.

For manufacturing you will need:

hoop round shape diameter 15-20 cm
small bells for decoration - about 12 pcs
piece of lace (size depending on the diameter of the hoop)
lace or strong thread
glue gun
simple pencil
scissors

Manufacturing process:

1. First, divide the hoop into two parts. Then step back about 2-3 cm from the lock, and start making dots with a pencil at the same distance. Take the string and tie it in a double knot near the clasp.

2. Tie the string around the headband several times and thread the bell at the first mark.

3. Continue winding your fingers, making five turns between the bells.

4. After passing the circle, tie a double knot, cut off the excess lace.

5. Loosen the clasp of the hoop. Place the lace on the inner ring of the hoop, place the outer one on top. Can be made more fun option tambourine, if you take a colorful fabric of bright colors.

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