The best way to grow cucumbers on film without weeding and hilling. Cucumbers under covering material: choice of material, advice from experienced gardeners on care and cultivation (85 photos) Which covering material is best for cucumbers

It is impossible to imagine a suburban area without at least one garden of cucumbers. this fragrant and delicious vegetable all summer residents love and are happy to consume both fresh and canned. in my garden, I annually set aside the best place for this crop ...

When I started working on an abandoned summer cottage, where nothing but wheatgrass had grown before, I had to face great difficulties. In the early years, my attempts to grow cucumbers, the seeds of which I sowed immediately in the garden, ended in failure. And all because cucumber seeds, as it turned out, are a real delicacy for ants, which were then in my garden in a myriad.

I re-sowed them again and again, but only single, accidentally surviving specimens germinated and sprouted, naturally, the harvest was scanty, and besides, the beginning of fruiting was significantly delayed.

Therefore, I decided to sow cucumbers for seedlings at home, and already grown seedlings - to transport the executioner and plant them in the garden. Later, when I completely brought out wheatgrass in my garden, and also sowed all the free corners suburban area marigold and marigold, I managed to get rid of the ants and return to the seedless method. However, until now, part of my plantings is occupied by plants that I grow through seedlings.

After all, this method, despite the fact that it is more laborious and troublesome, allows you to get the first greens about a month earlier. And after the acquisition polycarbonate greenhouse cucumbers on our table began to appear in mid-May.

It is worth considering that the timing of planting cucumbers for each region will vary significantly.
The main thing is that there is no need to rush to sow this vegetable for seedlings, as it grows very quickly and often stretches. Subsequently, this may not lead to an increase in yield, but, on the contrary, to its loss. Indeed, from weak seedlings, healthy bushes that can normally bear fruit are unlikely to form. Young plants are ready for transplanting already 3-4 weeks after germination, that is, in the phase of 2-4 true leaves,

Planting dates for cucumbers

In our region, weather conditions allow planting cucumbers in the greenhouse in the last decade of April, and in open ground - in the first decade of May. Accordingly, I begin to sow greenhouse cucumbers for seedlings at the end of March, and those that I will later transplant into open ground at the beginning of April. Additionally, on the May holidays, I prepare a separate garden bed, on which I plant with germinated seeds. This approach allows you to stretch the fruiting period of the vegetable, so beloved by all members of our family. First, we feast on crispy greens from the greenhouse, then the bushes in the open field, grown through seedlings, begin to bear fruit, and those sown with seeds pick up the baton very last.

seedling method

The indisputable advantage of the seedling method is the acceleration of the onset of fruiting and the ability to obtain fruits in the earliest possible time. After all, after the winter cold, everyone is looking forward to the first fresh vegetables on your desk. In addition, this method allows you to extend the period of harvesting fruits, and in the northern regions of our country it will serve as a guarantee of obtaining guaranteed harvest. Of the shortcomings, I, perhaps, will name only one - the extra spring chores, which summer residents already have a lot of during this period. Indeed, in order to obtain good seedlings, you will have to allocate additional space on the windowsill and make some efforts to create a microclimate favorable for them.

open ground

If tomatoes, bell peppers and eggplants in our climatic zone must be sown for seedlings, then cucumbers can bear fruit quite tolerably by direct sowing into the ground.

But the harvest in this case will be later, besides, the cucumber bushes give it away quite quickly, and then rapidly begin to turn yellow and dry out. Therefore, to extend the fruiting period, it makes sense to sow cucumbers in different dates with an interval of 2 - 3 weeks.

But such a technique is suitable only for those gardeners who, in dry summer weather, have the opportunity to constantly moisten the soil in the area where this crop is sown. However, it is worth noting that when favorable conditions seedlings in the open field appear quickly, and the plants themselves subsequently turn out to be more viable and adapted to environmental conditions. Even the strongest cucumber seedlings experience stress after transplantation, and it takes a certain time for it to take root in a new place and start growing again.

Selection of cucumber seeds

I am careful about the choice of seeds and never use freshly harvested ones, since in this case few female flowers will form on the plants, the number of which determines the size of the future crop. I think the ideal option is to use two to three-year-old seeds for planting.

Therefore, when buying planting material, I always look at the expiration date. Manufacturers usually indicate on the bag not the date of packaging, but the expiration date. Moreover, there are certain standards, taking into account which seeds packaged in single-layer paper bags must be sold within two years, and those stored in two-layer bags of foil materials - within three years. But since cucumber seeds remain viable for 8-10 years, I often purchase planting material with an expiration date: this is just what I need.

Expert advice

Now available in garden stores a large assortment varieties and hybrids, and everyone can choose cucumbers to their liking, depending on the needs and growing conditions. I plant both fairly new hybrids and old, well-established varieties. It is worth noting that I never plant bee-pollinated varieties in the greenhouse, but use parthenocarpic and self-pollinated varieties.All types of plants are suitable for planting in open ground.

Processing cucumber seeds before planting

I always carry out pre-sowing treatment of seeds, regardless of where they will be planted, at home in cups or on country garden. The only exceptions are those that are sold already prepared: they are usually painted and do not require additional manipulations from the gardener. First of all, I select intact full-weight seeds, which I have long learned to determine with the naked eye. For beginner summer residents, for these purposes, I can recommend using a 3% saline solution (30 g of table salt per 1 liter of water), into which the seeds are poured and mixed thoroughly. After 7-10 minutes, high-quality planting material will settle to the bottom of the tank.

Specimens that have surfaced must be discarded: they are unsuitable for landing. After calibration, the seeds are placed in a thermos filled with hot water(+45 ... +50 "C), and keep it under a closed lid for about half an hour. Such warming contributes to faster and more friendly germination and further development.

Next, I disinfect the seeds for 20-30 minutes in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 1 liter of water), after which I wash them under running water. At the last stage, I prepare a nutrient solution based on the Energen growth stimulator and Biohumus organo-mineral fertilizer (1 capsule and 4.5 ml, respectively, in 600 ml of water). I moisten a piece of cotton fabric or gauze in it, spread the planting material on it, put it on a saucer, which I immerse in a plastic bag. I leave the seeds in a warm place until pecking - in this solution it happens much faster.

Expert advice

Since the length daylight hours in the spring is still insufficient for the normal development of shoots, without fail I provide seedlings of cucumbers with additional illumination in the morning and evening hours, and in cloudy weather - throughout the day. For this purpose I use a drawing lamp. At its base there is a special fastener that allows you to easily fix it on the windowsill. In addition, thanks to the long stem, the height of the backlight can be easily adjusted as the seedlings grow.

Stages of sowing cucumbers

Since cucumbers are very painful to transplant and the slightest damage to the root system, when growing seedlings, I immediately use separate containers. For this purpose, four-hundred-gram plastic jars of sour cream, which I specially collect, are excellent. I make several holes in the bottom of each container to drain excess liquid.

I fill them with fertile soil only half. To do this, I use garden soil and rotted compost, taken in equal proportions and thoroughly mixed with wood ash(1 cup per 10 liters of substrate).

When the seeds begin to hatch, I immediately hatch them into cups, in which I first spill the soil with warm water. You should not delay the planting process, as fragile roots outgrow very quickly and can easily break when disembarking. I spread one seed into each container, sprinkle them with a layer of soil 1-2 cm, which I slightly moisten from above with a spray bottle. I cover every glass cling film and leave in a warm place (+ 27 ... + 30 ° С). As soon as the seedlings appear, I rearrange the container on the lightest window sill, and remove the film from the cups.

The temperature in the room now needs to be maintained at +20 ... +22°C during the daytime, and at night it must not be allowed to drop below + 15°C.

Tender cucumber shoots need regular but moderate watering. Neither drying out nor waterlogging of the earthy coma should be allowed - this equally negatively affects their development.

Also, this culture does not tolerate drafts.

Top dressing cucumbers

During the growth period of the seedlings, I fertilize twice with the Biohumus complex fertilizer, which I used to soak the seeds.

But this time I prepare the nutrient solution at the rate of 5 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water. I carry out the first dressing in the cotyledon phase, and the second - a week before transplanting the plants into the ground or greenhouse. Approximately 10 days before my pets move to the dacha, I begin to take them out to the glazed loggia for hardening. As the seedlings grow, I gradually pour fertile soil into cups, filling the stem with cotyledon leaves. This encourages additional root development and my seedlings always look stocky and healthy by the time they are transplanted.

Landing details.

I don’t plant cucumbers in one place for two years in a row, I certainly observe crop rotation, I try to plant this crop after cabbage, peas, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes or beets. I transplant the seedlings into a pre-prepared bed, the soil on which I carefully dig up with the addition of humus from the racist 1 bucket per 1 m 2. Then I level the site and make holes at a distance of 40 -50 cm from each other for greenhouse plants and 30 -36 cm for ground cucumbers.

Then I plant young plants by transshipment, trying to prevent damage to the root system. Seedlings are deepened by cotyledon leaves and watered with warm water. I always transplant in cloudy weather or in the evening. If I sow seeds on the bed, then I first make the holes deeper, add my home fertilizer to them, sprinkle with earth, water, and spread the seeds on top, deepening them into the soil by 1 - 2 cm.

I hope my experience will be useful for summer residents, and everyone will choose for themselves best way landing. And those who decide to grow cucumbers through seedlings and use my advice will surely be satisfied with the result.

A simple trick

I have one simple trick that significantly increases the yield and quality of greens. The last few years, when planting, I add to the wells potato peelings and the remains of baked goods, which I collect and dry during the winter. When planting seedlings, I pour a handful of such fertilizer into the planting holes, mix it with the soil and pour it with plenty of water.

WHAT SHOULD BE THE SOIL FOR CUCUMBERS

If the garden for cucumbers is prepared properly, in accordance with all the rules, then the gardener will not have much trouble growing this crop - the plants will be pleased with the harvest, and they will not require extra feeding, and they will not make you worry about your health once again.

Cucumbers will like a bed on which cabbage (white or cauliflower), peas or beans grew; you can plant them after tomatoes. But so that their predecessors in the garden were "relatives" - representatives of the pumpkin family (zucchini, pumpkin, squash) - they do not like cucumbers. Based on knowledge about cucumber likes and dislikes, we will prepare the ground for planting.

WHAT SOIL CUCUMBERS LOVE:

• fertile, rich in organic matter;
• with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction;
• loose, breathable;
• moisture-intensive;
• warm;
• cleared of weeds.

DO NOT LIKE:

• dense;
• sour;
• poor;
• cold.

Possible options

Depending on the conditions and your own capabilities, you can choose one of two main ways: to improve (enrich, loosen, deoxidize, and so on) the soil in the garden or build the so-called warm bed. There are advantages and disadvantages to both options, so consider both.

Preparing a regular bed for cucumbers

Soil preparation for cucumbers begins long before planting. First of all, you should take care of cleaning from plant residues and roots of weeds. Cucumber does not grow well in weedy areas, so it is better for him to choose cultivated, well-cultivated soils.

In autumn, the bed is filled with fresh manure at the rate of 5-10 kg / m 2 (the norm varies depending on the fertility of the soil) with the addition of 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt. Noli is planned to use rotted manure, compost or humus, they are brought in during spring digging or added directly to the hole during planting. Those who prefer to do without mineral fertilizers use wood ash instead (1 cup per 1 m 2).

Manure can be replaced with vegetable raw materials, such as fallen leaves, grass, etc. In this case, remove from the garden (it is more convenient to use a fenced one) upper layer soil to a depth of about 15 cm, lay the prepared organic matter and cover with soil. So that the “filling” does not cake, does not compact, add coarse components to it - branch trimmings, corn stalks, sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke. You can additionally shed the plant layer with infusion of chicken manure or mullein, it is better not to get carried away: an excess of organic fertilizers will not bring any benefits.

If the soil is acidic, it must be limed. The best option- add dolomite flour for the previous crop at the rate of 300-500 g/m2 (depending on the level of acidity), but this can also be done during autumn digging. Instead of dolomite flour, lime, chalk or wood ash are also used.

Dense, heavy clay soil it is necessary to make loose: add sand, peat, sawdust, humus. Remember that fresh sawdust should not be used, as it increases the acidity of the soil and absorbs nitrogen from it. If there was no rotted raw material at hand, fresh sawdust should be treated with a solution of urea (200 g per 10 liters of water), mixed with wood ash or dolomite flour, covered with plastic wrap for 10-16 days and only then applied to the soil.

If it was not possible to prepare the garden bed in the fall, you will have to do this in the spring, when the earth warms up. Apply organic and mineral fertilizers under the perecoac, for example, one of the proposed nutrient "cocktails" (per 1 m 2):

• 3 kg of humus, 3 kg of peat, 2 kg of old sawdust, 30 - 40 g of superphosphate, 10 - 15 g of potassium salt;
• 5 - 7 kg of semi-rotted manure, 20 g of urea. 20 g of double superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate or 150 - 200 g of wood ash;
• 4 - 6 kg of compost or humus, 3 cups of wood ash, 100 g of nitrophoska.

Regardless of the chosen set of fertilizers, they are evenly distributed over the garden bed and embedded in the soil.

Preparing a warm bed for cucumbers

This is great option for regions where spring is cold, with late return frosts. As we remember, the cucumber loves warm soil rich in nutrients - these are the conditions that a warm bed will provide. The heat that is released during the decomposition of organic raw materials makes it possible to obtain early harvest cucumbers even in adverse climatic conditions.

A warm bed is prepared in the fall to take advantage of all its benefits. True, one should not rush too much: if biofuel is laid too early, it will begin to warm up even before the onset of cold weather and will burn out by spring. But better about everything in order.

ON A NOTE

It is believed that 2/3 of the total amount of fertilizer intended for cucumbers should be applied when preparing the soil for planting. The remaining 1/3 is divided into two halves: one is used when the time comes for sowing or planting seedlings - they are added to the grooves (planting holes); the second half should fall on summer top dressing.

Dig a trench 35 - 50 cm deep and 50 - 60 cm wide. Lay a layer of branches or coarse stems on the bottom - for drainage. Then install the arcs (if not used stationary greenhouse). But then you can do it differently.

Classic warm garden- this is a trench filled with manure (cow or horse). It is better to lay such biofuel in a trench prepared since autumn in early spring (usually in March), in extreme cases - late autumn, after the onset of persistent cold weather. Lay manure without compacting. If the raw material has been laid since autumn, it should be loosened with a pitchfork in the spring. If the contents do not “flare up” (that is, they do not begin to warm up), but the entire length of the beds, it is necessary to make several deep holes and pour warm water into them. This stimulates the process.

When the biofuel flares up, sprinkle it with a layer of sawdust or peat (they will absorb the released ammonia), and then lay the loose soil mixture in a layer of 16 - 20 cm and cover the greenhouse with a film. However, immediately after this, it is impossible to sow cucumbers: in the first 10-12 days of "burning" of manure, the soil temperature can rise to +60 ° C and above. When the temperature drops to + 30 ... + 40 ° C and stabilizes, it will be possible to start planting.

However, this technology is not available to all gardeners: it is not possible for someone to get to the site in early spring, it is difficult to get enough fresh manure somewhere. In this case, you can fill the trench with available organic raw materials - fallen leaves, chopped grass (without seeds), tops (only healthy plants), and so on. Lay rotted manure or compost on top and fill with soil.

This structure cannot fully replace a real warm bed: the vegetable “filling” heats up much less than manure, and it will be possible to start planting in more late dates. However, cucumbers grow well on it and delight in the harvest.

Thus, you can prepare the right soil for cucumbers different ways , and every gardener will easily pick up suitable option, based on your own preferences and the conditions of your summer cottage.

CUCUMBERS: DISEASES AND PESTS

When I was just beginning to learn gardening science, I often missed the first signs of plant damage and, due to my indiscretion, in some years lost my crop. But over time, a store of knowledge appeared, which now helps me.

Since this culture is fast-growing, chemicals I don't use it to protect her. Behind long years gardening, I have accumulated quite a lot of effective folk methods that help keep cucumbers healthy in any, even the most unfavorable conditions.

On a note

The most common cucumber pests are aphids, spider mites and whiteflies. In addition to the fact that these insects suck the juices from the leaves and stems of plants, greatly weakening them, they are also carriers of viral infections, which are then almost impossible to deal with.

Cucumber pests

Aphids that damage cucumbers can be either winged or wingless and have a gray, green or dimensional color. An individual individual reaches a size of 1.8 - 2 mm. This insect reproduces very quickly, and in just a few days, entire colonies form on the leaves and stems. She is inactive and, having taken a certain place on the shoot, sucks out the juice until it begins to dry out.

spider mite it is almost impossible to notice with the naked eye, since its size does not exceed 0.6 mm. But on the other hand, its appearance on cucumbers is easy to determine by the presence of a thin cobweb on the leaves and their marble honey agaric. These pests are usually on the inside of the leaves, sucking the juices out of them, as a result of which they quickly begin to dry out.

The whitefly is a flying insect about 2 mm in size with translucent whitish wings. Not usually found on back side leaves. She is very voracious and continues to suck cucumber juice from plants even when she is full. Excess juice that remains on the stems and leaves after the activity of this pest serves as a favorable environment for the appearance of soot fungus, which further inhibits the shoots.

Ready for battle!

To the new summer season I start preparing in advance and during autumn-winter period I am stocking up on those kitchen waste that can come in handy in the fight against these harmful gels. To do this, I collect and dry the peel of citrus fruits and onion peel.

When uninvited guests appear in the cucumber plantings, I take the floor liter jar dry citrus peels, pour 2 liters of water and insist for a day. Then I boil the product on low heat for 16-20 minutes, filter it, bring the broth to 10 liters and spray the plants. If during the winter I gain a lot of orange or tangerine peel, as a preventive measure I sprinkle it under the cucumber bushes and cover it with mowed grass. The crusts, when rotting in the ground, exude an odor that repels these insects.

And the fight against them is no less effective infusion of onion peel. To prepare it, I fill a liter jar of husk with 2 - 3 liters of hot water (+ 40 ... + 50 ° C) and leave it for two days. I filter the resulting paste, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and carry out the treatment from the sprayer. This tool, due to the high content of valuable nutrients, is also an excellent foliar top dressing. With regular use of onion peel infusion during the season, cucumber lashes remain green much longer and delight with a longer fruiting period.

In the fight against pests on cucumber bushes, an infusion of garlic gives an excellent effect. To prepare it, I pass 1 glass of peeled cloves through the press, add the mass to a bucket of water and insist "< под крышкой в течение двух суток. Опрыскивание огурцов этим настоем не только отпугивает нежелательных насекомых, но и служит отличным бактерицидным средством для профилактики и лечения таких распространенных грибковых заболеваний, как мучнистая роса, пероноспороз, кладоспориоз, белая и корневая гнили, аскохитоз, фузариоз и антракноз .

Painful look

Most often, cucumbers suffer from powdery mildew and downy mildew. The first disease occurs when the air humidity is high and the temperature is not higher than +20 °C. It is characterized by the appearance of a powdery coating on the leaves in the form of small spots, which gradually increase and pass to the stems. Damaged parts of plants subsequently begin to dry out and die.

No less dangerous is peronosporosis (downy mildew), which develops in similar weather conditions and is characterized by the appearance of numerous yellow specks that grow rapidly and lead to the death of the damaged part of the plants.

Cladosporiosis (brown olive spotting) manifests itself in the form of small rounded ulcers of a brown or olive hue. The specks later begin to grow, dry out and collapse, damaging the foliage. This disease occurs with sudden changes in temperature, as well as in cool rainy weather.

It is quite easy to detect the beginning of infection of cucumbers with white rot, which begins to spread with increased soil and air humidity: small white bodies are formed in various parts of the plants, which look like pieces of cotton wool. If you do not carry out treatment, shoots and fruits can be covered with such a "cotton" coating almost completely.

Root rot can be seen with massive wilting of foliage. If you pull such a bush out of the ground, it root system will be rotten and with a red tint. Cucumbers often begin to suffer from this misfortune due to the indiscretion of summer residents themselves - after watering with cold water in hot weather.

Ascochitosis more often destroys greenhouse plants and primarily occurs on the stems in the form of oblong watery spots. gray color. Later, the spots darken, dry up, and brown exudate begins to stand out from their cracked integumentary membranes. If no action is taken, the disease then spreads to the leaves and fruits.

In the greenhouse on cucumber bushes, you can also find signs of fusarium, which, similarly to ascochitosis, spreads due to excessive planting density, high humidity and a sharp difference in day and night temperatures. Fusarium wilt in most cases manifests itself only during the fruiting period, it significantly reduces its time, as it greatly weakens the plants. The drooping tops of the lashes in the daytime are the first sign of Fusarium. The spores of these fungi first of all settle on the roots, and then move on to the stem and leaves, the edges of which become watery and acquire a pale shade.

Mri watering cucumbers with cold water, as well as with sudden changes in air temperature, anthracnose can develop, which is easy to identify by multiple brown spots on all parts of the plant. Moreover, on the fruits, they look like depressed watery lesions of a brown or pinkish hue. On infected bushes, the quality of even healthy-looking greens deteriorates; they become tasteless by reducing the amount of sugars and organic acids.

All of the above ailments are caused by various fungi, the spores of which multiply rapidly and destroy plants if the necessary measures are not taken in time. These mushrooms belong to different families, but for all of them the acidic environment and treatment with antiseptic agents are equally destructive.

Be carefull!

When cooking folk remedies against diseases I add to each 2-3 tbsp. spoons of liquid soap for better stickiness and choose those products that are currently on hand. I want to note that the treatments must be carried out regularly 1 time in 5 - 7 days until the condition of the plants improves. Sometimes I experiment and mix different ingredients (in case my cucumbers are affected by both pests and diseases at the same time). For example, I add iodine or brilliant green to the drink of tobacco dust; or I bring the prepared decoction of celandine (3 l) to a volume of 10 l with unusual water, and with an ash solution, which I already prepare at the rate of a half-liter jar of ash per 7 l of water.

Over the past few years, I have become much more vigilant about the health of my country pets. I start spraying from the moment the seedlings appear on the beds or the seedlings are planted in the ground as a preventive measure every 7-10 days, alternating solutions against pests and diseases. With this approach, my cucumbers remain healthy throughout the growing season and annually delight me with a wonderful harvest.

PROVEN RECIPES FOR APHIDS, WHITEFLY AND SPIDER MITE

• Tobacco dust (150-200 g) pour 1-2 liters of hot water and leave for 1-2 days. Then I filter the infusion, bring the volume to 10 liters and spray the plants.
• I fill the bucket 1/3 with the crushed ground part of the marigolds, fill it with water halfway and insist for three days, after which I filter the infusion, dilute it with water in equal proportions and spray it.
• Finely chop 30-40 g of fresh or 10-15 g of dry hot pepper, pour 1 liter of water, put on fire and boil for 20-30 minutes on low heat. I filter the resulting broth, pour it into 9 liters of water and carry out the processing.
• 1/3 of a bucket of potato tops, tomato stepchildren or wormwood grass is poured with warm water to the top and insisted for two days. Strained infusion is used for its intended purpose.
• I grind 0.5 kg of freshly picked celandine grass and pour 3 liters of water, insist for a day, boil for an hour and then filter. I pour the broth into a bucket, top it up with water to the top and spray it.

In addition to garlic infusion, at the first sign of a disease, I use the following solutions for foliar spraying of plants:

• 1 liter of skimmed milk or kefir per 9 liters of water;
• 1 liter of whey per 9 liters of water;
• half-liter jar of wood ash per 10 liters of water (leave for 2 days and strain);
• 100 g of pressed yeast per 10 water;
• 10 ml of iodine per 10 liters of water;
• 10 ml of brilliant green per 10 liters of water;
• Pour 150-200 g of crushed tinder fungus into 1-2 liters of boiling water, wait for it to cool, strain and bring the volume to 10 liters;
• 2 kg of rotten hay or straw pour 0.5 buckets of warm water, leave for 3 days, strain and bring the volume to 10 liters;
• knead a loaf of rye bread and pour 10 liters of water, let it ferment for 3 days, strain, dilute the resulting kvass with water in equal proportions;
• Fill 1/3 of a bucket with chopped herb plantain, nettle, dandelion and coltsfoot, pour water to the top and let it brew for 3-5 days, then strain and use undiluted;
• 1 kg of mullein insist in 10 liters of water for 3 days, strain, dilute half with water;
• 1 kg of freshly harvested horsetail grass pour 3 liters of water, let it brew for a day, then boil, strain and bring the volume to 10 liters.

CUCUMBERS WITHOUT CHEMISTRY

MANY GARDENERS TODAY PREFER TO GROW VEGETABLES IN THE COTTAGE WITHOUT THE USE OF SYNTHETIC MINERAL FERTILIZERS. AND THIS DOES NOT STOP IN THE ONE OF GETTING AN EXCELLENT HARVEST - EVEN FROM SUCH GUTTLERS LIKE CUCUMBERS. THE MAIN THING IS TO CHOOSE THE MENU CORRECTLY

Cucumber loves organic matter, but it cannot be limited to it: in our arsenal there should be different types of dressings in order to satisfy all the plant's needs for useful macro- and microelements.

Ash

The chemical composition of ash varies over a fairly wide range and largely depends on the feedstock that was used to obtain it. But in any ash there are compounds of calcium, potassium, magnesium and sodium, which are necessary for cucumber. Regular application of ash throughout the season will prevent potassium starvation, which leads to the formation of ugly (pear-shaped) greens. In addition, calcium normalizes water balance and supports the stable growth of cucumber lashes.

The easiest way to use, so to speak, for the lazy: systematically (once a week or less) scatter the sifted ash on moist soil around the plants at the rate of 2 tbsp. spoons on the bush, avoiding falling on the stems. Nutrients from the ash will gradually flow to the roots with each watering.

Liquid ash top dressing, unlike the dry method, allows you to quickly bring food to the addressee. This is especially important during fruiting when potassium intake is increased. The recipes for such solutions are different - their concentration is selected based on specific conditions.

For regular top dressing, you can use the following ash solution: dissolve a glass of ash in 10 liters of water. Apply fertilizer at the rate of 1-2 cups per plant. If a potassium deficiency appears, the proportions can be increased: take a half-liter jar of ash for 10 liters of water, rewind it carefully, let it stand, then feed the cucumbers with the resulting solution at the rate of 1 liter per bush.

You can also cook ash paste: 3 tbsp. spoons per 1 liter of water, mix, leave for a week. The infusion is applied at the rate of 0.5 liters per bush, followed by abundant watering.

Nitrogen sources

If it is better to introduce rotted manure or compost into the soil when planting cucumbers, then fresh manure or bird droppings (chicken, pigeon, quail, and so on) are preferable for top dressing. They are used to prepare solutions of various concentrations. At the same time, it is worth remembering: manure and litter contain a lot of nitrogen, so it is highly undesirable to abuse such dressings. An excess of nitrogen will inevitably lead to abundant growth of greenery, but fruiting can be greatly delayed.

CHICKEN MANURE

In addition to nitrogen, chicken manure contains a large amount of potassium, phosphorus and magnesium. According to these indicators, it even exceeds by several times cow dung. However, such a high concentration of nutrients and the presence in the litter uric acid make it unsafe for plants: such fertilizer can burn the roots. Even in the form of an infusion, fresh litter cannot be applied under the root - only along the aisles. And be sure to combine this top dressing with abundant watering.

To prepare fertilizer from fresh chicken manure, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:20 and leave for 10 days in the open air. L here rotted litter can be diluted in a higher concentration (1:10 or 1:15) and you need to insist it less, only 2 - 3 days. Ready top dressing in color should be like weakly brewed tea. If the solution is more saturated, you should add water so that the fertilizer you have prepared does not harm the plants. It is especially effective in the phase of the second or third leaf, when cucumbers need nitrogen for growth, as well as at the beginning of flowering, when they are contained in the litter. useful elements stimulate the formation of ovaries.

MANURE

Horse manure is an excellent biofuel for warm cucumber beds. For top dressing, it is more convenient to use cow dung: the nitrogen content in it is relatively low, which means there will be less risk of overdose, which can lead to the accumulation of nitrates in fruits or the active growth of ash mass to the detriment of fruiting.

An infusion is prepared from fresh manure: fill the raw materials with water in a ratio of 1: 1, leave for a week, then dilute in a ratio of 1:10 and apply, like top dressing from chicken manure, between rows, at the rate of 10 liters of infusion per 1 m 7 plantings.

Another way to prepare top dressing: mix slurry with water 1: 4 and ferment in a warm place for 4-7 days. The resulting infusion is again diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4 and used for top dressing.

Weeds to the rescue

An excellent top dressing for cucumbers is obtained from the most common grass. Grind the weeded weeds, put them in any suitable container, fill with water and leave for a few days until a characteristic "aroma" appears. The resulting herbal infusion can be safely watered with cucumbers and other vegetable crops, previously diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. The most "delicious" dressings are obtained from nettle and dandelion.

Expert advice

When preparing herbal top dressing is not fill the container to the top, otherwise, during fermentation, the contents will begin to overflow. The fermentation period of such a fertilizer will depend on the temperature: the warmer, the faster it will be ready.

Krapina fertilizer can be prepared with the addition of fresh yeast and brown bread. Fill the container 2/3 with chopped nettles, add leftover bread or crackers, pour water with yeast diluted in it (100 g per bucket of water) and ferment in heat for 3-5 days. Before use, dilute the prepared infusion with water in a ratio of 1:10.

Natural "complex fertilizer" can be prepared as follows: 5-6 kg of crushed leaves and stems of weeds (nettle, plantain, dandelion, coltsfoot), 10 tbsp. spoons of wood ash, put 1 bucket of mullein in a ten-bucket (100l) container, fill with water to the top and mix thoroughly. I (melt for a week.

Products from the kitchen

They sang at the cucumbers, the leaves began to turn yellow prematurely, a solution of baking soda will help (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Cucumbers also respond well to yeast feeding: 100 g of fresh (not dry!) ​​yeast per 10 liters of water. Dissolve the yeast completely, let it brew for half an hour, water at the rate of 1 liter under a bush.

The growth of cucumber lashes is accelerated by milk: it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2, I feed it '!' Once every 2 weeks. Instead of milk, you can use whey (2 liters per bucket of water).

How often should you feed?

Everyone knows that cucumber is picky about nutrition. But the degree of this exactingness is understood in different ways, and therefore you can find p personal recommendations regarding the frequency of feeding.

The most radical option is to feed the plants throughout the season, every 10-12 days (or even once a week), alternating mineral supplements with organic.

The second option involves only 3-4 top dressings, timed to coincide with the most important stages of plant development: the first - two weeks after planting seedlings, when the plants have already adapted well in a new place; the second - at the beginning of flowering; the third and fourth - at the stage of mass fruiting, when plants actively form greens.

Finally, some gardeners are of the opinion that 1-2 dressings are enough for a cucumber all summer long - at the time of crop formation.

Who is right and which option to choose? This is largely determined by the conditions: if cucumber patch before planting, it was generously seasoned with organic matter, the soil on it is fertile, retains moisture and nutrients well, then you should not get carried away with additional top dressing. An excess of nutrition is no less harmful than its deficiency: overfed plants resist disease worse. In addition, excess nitrogen leads to a decrease in yield and the accumulation of nitrates in the fruit.

If the soil is poor or too loose (for example, sandy) and the elements necessary for the plant are quickly washed out during irrigation or rain, you will not see the crop without additional nutrition.

And be sure to watch the plants - they themselves will tell you if they need recharge. The lashes were healthy, the leaves are green, the fruits are developing well - you should not get carried away with fertilizing, even if natural.

WAYS OF STRINGING CUCUMBERS

When I was in school, everything summer vacation I spent with my grandmother in the village. Even as a child, it gave me great pleasure to care for garden plants. And the most pleasant occupation for me was harvesting. The only crop that I did not like to harvest from was the cucumber.

Grandmother always grew cucumbers. With this method of planting, the bed occupied a rather large area. Therefore, I never had any particular joy in making my way through dense thickets, covering the surface of the earth with a continuous carpet. Often, she inadvertently stepped on fragile lashes, and on Zelentsy themselves, and then scolded herself for her clumsiness. This vegetable was also grown by my parents. And only I, when I completely took the initiative in processing the summer cottage in my own hands, for the first time tried to tie long cucumber lashes to a support.

The first experiment on the construction of a support for cucumbers, I carried out with the help of side backs from two old armored beds, which had been gathering dust for a long time in country barn. I dug these metal beds across the beds at a distance of about 1.5 m and pulled several strings of twine between them. I planted cucumbers in two rows and, as the shoots grew, I simply threw the whips on the support. After a while, they densely braided the structure, which, although it turned out to be low, made care much easier. Collecting greens in the cucumber "tunnel" has become much easier. However, what pleased me most of all was that the fruiting period with this method of planting increased significantly in comparison with those plants that previously freely spread along the ground.

But still, the height of this structure turned out to be insufficient: the shoots, as they grew, rose to the support, and then again descended to the ground.

After a while, I built another support. The beds were replaced with strong wooden stakes about 2 m high, which I dug along the edges and in the middle of the beds on the same line. Between them she pulled several horizontal rows of twine at a distance of 30 - 35 cm, to which she tied cucumber lashes during the growth period. The height of such a tapestry turned out to be optimal, and I was very pleased with the result. The only thing I later replaced the twine with was a strong wire, as it invariably sagged under the weight of shoots hung with fruits.

WITHOUT MULCH IN ANY WAY!

Garter cucumbers during the growing season does not take much time and has long become my usual pastime. This method significantly saves space on the site. It is not difficult to water and feed the plants: now I pour water and nutrient solutions strictly under the root, and I mulch the ground under the plantings with mowed grass. Indeed, on my sandy soil, which dries up instantly in the summer heat, you simply cannot do without mulch. It allows you to retain moisture in the ground much longer. In addition, when rotting, the grass saturates it with organic compounds and additionally nourishes the plants.

Prevention

On the trellis, vertically located shoots are illuminated from all sides by the sun, blown by the breeze and always remain dry after watering, which significantly reduces the risk of developing fungal diseases. For example, when I grew this crop in creeping form, plantings were constantly affected by downy mildew and anthracnose. And this happened because the shoots were in contact with moist soil, the temperature of which always decreased at night.

And if suddenly cool, rainy weather set in in the summer, then the cucumbers were affected by fungal diseases just like lightning, and sometimes I completely lost the crop. Now I have the opportunity to free up a significant amount of time that I used to spend on treating my plantings.

Signs of this or that disease can be found on the bushes only in seasons with extremely unfavorable weather conditions. The trellis also protects them from the cold August dew, which negatively affects the condition of plants creeping along the surface of the soil. Naturally, healthy bushes bear fruit much longer and delight with a generous harvest until autumn.

For bees

With the trellis method of growing bee-pollinated varieties, which I usually plant in open ground, the yield is significantly increased. Indeed, under such conditions, it becomes easier for insects to find and pollinate the maximum number of flowers that are available to them, and do not hide in dense thickets of tangled lashes and leaves. What a pleasure it now gives me to collect fragrant, crisp greens! You no longer have to look for them for a long time: they are all in sight. In addition, I no longer trample the beds, as before, and do not damage the delicate shoots and leaves.

Miracle mesh for cucumbers

Last year, quite by accident, I saw a trellis net in a garden store, specially designed for cultivating long-climbing plants. Already knowing all the benefits vertical way growing cucumbers, I gladly purchased this

product and managed to evaluate its merits in the same season. The height of the mesh was just 2 m, and I could easily fix it on the dug-in pipes and pull it along the entire length of the bed.

I really regretted that I didn’t find out about this wonderful invention earlier, because now I don’t have to waste time on tying the lashes: I just direct them between cells that have an optimal size of 15x15cm, and they themselves lean towards it with tenacious antennae. Those who at least once tried to grow cucumbers on a trellis are unlikely to be able to refuse this method. After all, having once spent time and effort on the construction of a support, you can significantly reduce the cost of care throughout all subsequent summer seasons.

Garter methods

There are various ways to garter cucumbers, and each summer resident can choose among them the most suitable for himself or turn on ingenuity and invent any other support from the available materials at hand.

For example, my dacha neighbor ties up cucumbers in a very original way. He draws several circles with a diameter of about 1 m on the garden bed. A high wooden stake is driven into the center of each, at the end of which there is a small carnation. Then he digs shallow annular grooves around the stakes and plants cucumbers in them.

When the shoots reach 20 - 30 cm, he ties several pieces of twine to the carnation (depending on the number of plants), the second end of which is fastened to the stems with a free loop. As it grows, it twists the whips around the twine, and subsequently a kind of cucumber "huts" are formed on its bed, attracting the eyes of all passers-by.

Other neighbors similarly wrap cucumber lashes around twine, but use thick beds dug along the edges as a support. wooden bars, on top of which a long rail is nailed. They plant cucumbers in a line and tie twine to a rail above each individual bush. By the way, they are pensioners and live in the country constantly throughout the season. Therefore, if suddenly cold rains begin to fall in the summer, they put a film on the trellis, attaching it with clothespins to the twine, and thus save the plants from excessive moisture. They do the same during the summer heat, shading the cucumbers from the scorching sun at noon, but instead of the film they use lutrasil.

The formation of lashes in cucumbers

Growing cucumbers on a trellis, in addition to other pleasant moments, allowed me to try out the principles of forming lashes, which I learned about from special literature. This technique makes it possible not only to restrain the growth of green mass, but also to regulate the process of fruit formation. When I allowed cucumbers to wander freely on the ground, there was no question of any formation: it was simply impossible to keep track of the growth point of each of the tangled shoots.

But with vertical growth, the stems, leaves and ovaries are in sight, which simplifies working with them. It is worth noting that different varieties and hybrids require different approaches to the formation of lashes.

Having mastered all the subtleties of the formation of cucumber bushes, I can say with full confidence that their productivity increases significantly. By pinching certain shoots, you can redirect the forces of the cucumber from actively building up long lashes to setting more fruits.

For example, I annually plant the old varieties ‘Phoenix 640’ and ‘Monastyrsky’ in open ground, and they always delight me with their disease resistance and abundant fruiting. But since mostly male flowers are formed on their main stem, I pinch it in the phase of 5-6 true leaves. In their axils, lateral shoots appear with female-type flowers, which are just the key to the future harvest. I tie them to a support and remove the growth point on each after the 4-5th sheet. In this way, I form highly branched bushes and significantly increase their yield.

Modern varieties and hybrids have a predominantly female type of flowering in all parts of the bush, and parthenocarpic varieties have flowers that form ovaries on their own and do not need pollination at all. Therefore, I am shaping them differently. When 3-5 true leaves form on the main stem, I remove all shoots and buds from their axils. This technique is called blinding.

If this is not done, then the ovaries formed in these places will inhibit the development of the entire cucumber bush, which will ultimately lead to a decrease in yield. Above this level, I leave all the lateral stepchildren, but I stop their growth after the third leaf, pinching the point of growth. When the main stem reaches the upper edge of the trellis, I smoothly transfer its growth to a horizontal position, attaching it with twine to the wire or the upper level of the trellis mesh cells. Then I wait for the appearance of another 2-3 lateral shoots and pinch the main stem. I let these, the latest, stepchildren go down the support and pinch them to the pave-saute about 1 m from the soil surface.

Formation in the greenhouse

The main part of the cucumbers grows in my open field, and only to get early greens I plant several plants in the greenhouse, where I also tie the whips to a vertical support. But since the greenhouse bushes are illuminated and ventilated worse, I blind the main stem at a height of 40-50 cm, and on the next 50-60 cm I pinch the side stepsons after the first leaf and leave one ovary in their sinuses. For the rest of the side shoots up to a height of 1.5 m, I remove the growth point after the second leaf, and in the upper zone, where the illumination increases, I leave 3-4 leaves on the branches.

After the main stem reaches the upper level of the trellis, I carry out the formation similarly to open ground plants, letting a couple of lashes down. Thus, I increase the load on upper part bush. In the lower part, with this method of formation, thickening is excluded and ventilation is improved, which in turn protects greenhouse cucumbers from damage by root rot.

For a cucumber bush, branching is natural process, therefore, I am regularly engaged in the formation of lashes throughout the entire growing season of this crop. Since I visit the dacha only on weekends, then, accordingly, I carry out these works once a week, but by no means less often. Otherwise, the shoots outgrow, and the proper effect of the formation cannot be achieved. In addition, on the plants I remove all yellowed and damaged leaves.

Garter and formation of cucumbers seemed to me a difficult task only when I got acquainted with the intricacies of this process in theory. In practice, everything turned out to be easier. By the way, thanks to this approach, I began to plant a much smaller number of plants.

Expert advice

Operations for the formation of bushes, as well as the removal of unnecessary shoots and dying leaves, are carried out in the early morning, so that the wounds dry up and tighten before evening. Make cuts with sharp, clean scissors and never leave stumps. In addition, do not touch large whips if they are accidentally fixed with antennae in an undesirable direction for you. If you change their position and turn the leaves and ovaries in the direction opposite to their original growth, this will negatively affect their further development.

WHERE WITHOUT PROBLEMS?

CUCUMBERS ARE NOT TOO PICKING CULTURE, BUT TIME TO TIME EVEN THEY CAN THROW THE GARDENER ANY PROBLEM. WE WILL TELL YOU WHAT TO DO IF…

…cucumbers grow ugly

Deformation of Zelentsov is a sign of an imbalance in plant nutrition. So the cucumber tells what exactly it lacks:

a fruit that resembles a light bulb or a pear (narrowing at the stalk and expanding at the tip) indicates a potassium deficiency. At the same time, a brown border may appear on the edges of the leaves. A half-liter jar of ash per 10 liters of water will help solve the problem. Mix everything, let it stand, water 1 liter under a bush;

greens thickened at the stalk and tapering towards the end - a signal of nitrogen starvation.

At the same time, you can notice that the leaves on the cucumber lashes began to grow smaller and turn pale, the shoots became thinner. The problem will be solved organic top dressing(herbal infusion, solution of mullein or chicken manure);

cucumbers "with a waist" (narrowing in the middle of the fruit) are formed most often due to large differences temperature. This usually happens at the end of summer when the days are hot and the nights are already cold. Shelter will help to avoid such a problem;

curved, arched greens may be the result of uneven soil moisture, for example abundant watering after a severe drought. In hybrids similar phenomenon found in cross-pollination. Proper plant care will prevent this defect from occurring.

... cucumbers are bitter

Bitterness is associated with the formation of cucurbitacin. And this substance is produced in cucumbers under the influence of stress, which can be drought and sudden changes in temperature, and other adverse effects - cucumbers do not like extreme sports.

What to do?

Most reliable way The solution to the problem is to give preference to modern varieties and hybrids that genetically lack the ability to produce cucurbitacin.

Such greens will not be bitter, even if stress factors arise. But taking care of planting is also not superfluous: give your pets enough water, mulch the soil to save moisture, protect plants from temperature fluctuations - then the taste of cucumbers will only please.

... leaves on cucumber lashes turn yellow

If the season is coming to an end, yellow leaves are a natural occurrence." You can extend the life of the plant by bending the lash to the ground and partially covering it with soil: cucumbers form adventitious roots well, which will help the bush get additional nutrition and rejuvenate.

When the leaves turn yellow ahead of schedule, this may signal a lack of nitrogen. If the plant is also stunted, has thin, weakened shoots, there is no doubt about the diagnosis. Feed cucumbers with nitrophoska (2 teaspoons per 3 liters of water, apply 1-2 cups under a bush) or organic fertilizer.

... cucumbers do not fruit

There may be several reasons for this:

POLLINATION DID NOT HAPPEN Cucumbers are bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic (forming fruits without pollination). If you plant bee-pollinated varieties in a greenhouse where insects cannot reach, there will be no fruits. Cucumbers are not tied on such plants and in open ground if the weather is cold or rainy (pollinating insects do not fly).

TOO HOT

Cucumbers are thermophilic, but too high an air temperature (most often this happens in greenhouses at the height of summer) leads to the fact that the fruits do not set.

TOO MUCH NITROGEN

This macronutrient stimulates the growth of green mass to the detriment of fruiting. Overfed plants usually have large, succulent leaves, powerful stems, but flowering is weak, few fruits are tied or not formed at all.

YOU HAVE USED FRESH SEEDS

Cucumbers have one feature: plants from fresh (last year's) seeds form many male flowers (barren flowers), and the appearance of female flowers may be delayed. The seeds were stored for 2-3 years before sowing, they produce plants on which female flowers appear simultaneously with male ones, which means that fruiting begins earlier.

... the plant withers

If an outwardly healthy cucumber suddenly begins to fade, it is possible that its root system is damaged. Rodents can work, and excess moisture will affect - there are different reasons. Carefully rake the soil at the base of the stem. If the root collar has rotted and turned brown, the plant is affected by root rot. Broken roots indicate the involvement of underground pests. A plant with damaged roots can be tried to be saved. Cucumber lashes take root well, so it is enough to bend down the shoots to sprinkle it with soil - after some time, roots form in this place.

If, on examination, it turned out that the roots were not damaged, the wilting of the plant is most likely associated with a viral disease - verticillium wilt (wilt). In this case, it should be removed as soon as possible so that the disease does not spread.

... small holes appear on the leaves

This is what traces of sunburn that occur on plants in greenhouses look like. At night, due to the temperature difference, condensation forms on the film. When falling on the leaves, the droplets work like magnifying glasses - lift the leaf plate and burn through it with the rays of the sun.

On a note: How to store cucumbers in summer

In the summer, of course, it is best to pick cucumbers directly from the lashes and eat them immediately. And yet there are cases when you need to keep greens for a week, and maybe even a month. How to do it?

On the same principle - creating a film on the surface of cucumbers that prevents the evaporation of moisture and the penetration of air involved in the decomposition process organic matter, another method is based. But it is absolutely harmless, since food raw materials are used. Freshly harvested greens must be washed with boiled water, then wiped thoroughly and gently smeared with egg white so that there are no uncovered places. Cucumbers must be necessarily with a stalk, they are hung for it so that the protein dries up and forms a reliable film. They are stored in this form for a month or more.

In the cellar and basement

The optimal conditions for storing cucumbers - humidity 90-95% and temperature plus 5-6 degrees - make it possible to keep vegetables in their "natural" form for 2-3 weeks. These parameters are usually easy to maintain in cellars and cellars. Zelentsy is best placed in thin plastic bags with a capacity of 2-4 kg. First, you should cut off the remaining inflorescences and wrap each fruit with a paper napkin or towel. You don't need to wash cucumbers.

The bags are about two-thirds full and the top is folded over, but the bag itself is not tied or sealed. Loose packaging provides a small flow of air to the cucumbers, which is what they need. At the same time, the plastic film creates increased air humidity, preventing the cucumbers from wilting.

In the fridge

You can store the crop on the lower shelves of refrigerators. But here the temperature is somewhat lower, and the humidity is much higher than the recommended parameters. And if, as is often advised, to store greens in open or perforated bags, then they will give up their moisture to the air in the refrigerator and quickly become flabby. Therefore, you need to send cucumbers here in tightly tied bags, and even make sure that there are no holes in them. If this condition is met, then the fruits will remain fresh for 10 days.

At room temperature

Cucumbers placed with their stalk down three-quarters of the length into water, which must be changed daily, will withstand the same amount. A little less - 7-8 days - you can store greens in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. The last two methods imply that storage occurs at room temperature.

Under the "film"

There are some unusual cucumber storage methods that are questionable. So, it is advised to cover fresh fruits with petroleum jelly - they say, in this form they can maintain good taste for a month or more. But the question arises: how then to eat them?

old recipe

Pour a little vinegar into a pot or enamel pan, place a grate or colander on top, put cucumbers and close the lid tightly.

On a note

Thick-skinned cucumbers keep longer than others.

Fruits with white spikes keep better and longer than those with black ones.

The smallest - gherkins 4-5 long and pickles -1-3 cm, intended for canning, can be stored for no more than 10 hours.

It is better to collect cucumbers early in the morning or in the evening and immediately place them in the shade or in a cool place. After harvesting, cucumbers are not washed, because after that they fade faster and are poorly stored.

WHAT A BED WITHOUT CUCUMBERS!

And it all starts with the choice of hybrid varieties so that the cucumbers grow tasty and beautiful, and the harvest, of course, would please.

My choice depends on the goals and conditions for growing cucumbers. For example, salad varieties of cucumbers are not suitable for pickling. But many varieties and hybrids are universal, which means they are suitable for both fresh consumption and harvesting. It is very comfortable.

I advise lovers of pickled cucumbers to opt for short-fruited varieties with a large-lumpy surface. True, under adverse conditions, their taste may deteriorate - they begin to taste bitter. For salting, this is not scary, but the taste of a fresh salad will be spoiled. To avoid such a nuisance, one must carefully study the description of the taste of the hybrid.

Choose those in which the ability to bitterness is excluded at the genetic level. For example, Zozulya F1, Malay-shock-Sturdy F1, Paso Doble F1 and others. ,

Never choose cucumber seeds from a picture. Of course, a colorful photo on a bag of seeds can give general idea about a variety or hybrid. But the most important thing is its characterization. So carefully read everything that is printed on the package.

Greenhouse or open ground?

It's another one important nuance not to be missed. There are both self-pollinating (partheno-carpic type) hybrids, and those that depend on pollinating insects. It is undesirable to sow the latter in greenhouses, otherwise you will have to hand-pollinate your plants. It is not difficult to do this: you need to pick a male flower and transfer the pollen from it to the female ovaries. But it is also a labor that requires a lot of time.

There is another important detail that I advise you to pay attention to - the ability of fruits to maintain a dense texture during salting and canning without the formation of voids, as well as a pleasant crunch. For this purpose, I recommend Khrustyshchy, hybrids True Friends F1, Masha F1, Real Miracle Crunch F1, which are also devoid of bitterness at the genetic level.

HOW TO PLANT SEEDLINGS CORRECTLY IN OPEN GROUND

Every year, spring comes at a different time, so the seedlings are planted in different ways. But I try to land before mid-May, unless, of course, the weather is favorable.

I start preparing the soil already in the fall. I bring in coarse-grained sand for digging at the rate of a bucket per 1 sq. m. If your site has sandy soil, you do not need to do this. Next, I add fluffy lime (500-700 g per 1 sq. M) to lower the pH level, compost or rotted manure (5-7 kg per sq. M).

In the spring, I scatter mineral fertilizers (1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate, 3 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. M), planting them in the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm.

I form the beds the day before planting. Usually their width is 120 cm, and the height is 15-20 cm. I make holes in

2 rows at a distance of 35-40 cm in a row with a row spacing of 55-60 cm.

I plant seedlings of tomatoes in the evening or in cloudy weather. Two hours before planting, seedlings in containers are watered abundantly. So the earthen ball does not fall apart during transplantation. When planting, I deepen tomato seedlings to the first pair of true leaves. I plant the overgrown reclining, directing the roots to the south. I water abundantly and put a peg near each plant, to which I will tie grown tomatoes in the future.

To preserve moisture, I mulch the bed with mowed grass or old hay.

After planting, seedlings should adapt to new conditions within 5-10 days. During this period, I do not water them and do not make any top dressing.

When the seedlings take root, I begin to water and feed. When watering, I focus on the state of seedlings and soil about once a week, 3 liters for each root, since sprinkling increases the risk of developing diseases. In hot weather, I water more often.

I spend all watering in the evening, and the next morning I will definitely loosen the soil. After each watering or rain, I loosen the soil by 5 cm. I carry out weeding until the beds are covered with mulch.

When I see that the seedlings have taken root, I mulch the beds with hay or grass with a layer of about 10 cm.

This will keep the soil from overheating and retain moisture. Even in the hottest weather, under mulch, the ground is cool and slightly damp. This is especially important during the fruiting period. Also, weeds don't grow.

: Round garden for cucumbersThe main thing in ...: Why are empty flowers on cucumbers Sometimes gardeners ...

: Cucumbers in the apartment - secrets ...

With the advent of spring, every summer resident has a time for troubles and worries about their new “wards” and their comfortable stay during the periods of the first spring frosts. We try to cover young plants as best as possible by creating them optimal microclimate. We all know well such covering material as polyethylene film, but the choice is not limited to this. I propose to consider in more detail the features of each material in order to understand which and for what we can come in handy. We are talking about artificial origin.

Spunbond, lutrasil, agril, spantex, agrosuf, agrospan - what is it?

Surely many of you have come across these outlandish names. A gardener with experience immediately understands what is at stake, but for a beginner it is like the alphabet of a new, unexplored language. All of these are well-known trade marks, under which the material, which is extremely necessary in horticulture, is made, consisting of non-woven polypropylene fiber.

Covering material for beds

When I went to buy non-woven polypropylene material for covering strawberries, I did not see the difference between the rolls, the consultant then also could not tell me what the fundamental difference was. When I brought home my purchase, it turned out that the material of the purchased density can be covered with greenhouses in the winter, but for berries in the spring it is not very suitable. Let's talk about the density of non-woven material.

Density of nonwoven polypropylene fiber

• 17-30g/m²- a material with such a density range would be just right for my purposes. It is able to protect plants in the open field from strong sun and spring short frosts at night, and due to good air, water, light and thermal conductivity, it helps to organize a special microclimate for plants for the best growth and development. The advantage of this material is also protection from birds and insects. Shrubs, berries, vegetables, fruits and ornamental plants, mainly growing on open ground, are covered with a material with a density of 17-30 g / m².

Lutrasil density 17-30 g/m²

• 42-60g/m² perfect if you plan to build a greenhouse with arcs and provide the plant with winter shelter.

Shelter made of non-woven material with a density of 42-60 g/m²

• 60 g/m²- a material of such density "for the lazy", its benefits more than pay for its market value. During the production of the material, some companies add a UV stabilizer that extends the life of the canvas. And the addition of carbon black gives the non-woven material a black color. This color contributes to greater absorption of sunlight, the plants receive more heat, but the weeds, being under such a shelter, “do not see” the sun and die. Black is most often used as mulch, white is stretched over frames to protect plants. The structure of the material is such that it perfectly passes moisture. Therefore, watering and applying liquid fertilizers will not be difficult.

Shelter of roses with lutrasil with a density of 60 g / m²

Now there are so many different offers on the market that it is difficult not to lose your head. By and large, the essence of all brands of covering nonwovens is the same. The difference is in proprietary manufacturing technologies and, of course, in price and quality. Most popular on Russian market, it seems to me, nevertheless, is spunbond, the name of which has actually become a household name for covering materials, like diaper diapers or photocopiers for copiers.

Spunbond

In our country nonwoven fabric spunbond technology is very widely used because of its properties, quality and price. It is durable, lightweight, environmentally friendly, does not deform from temperature changes, passes moisture and air. Moreover, it is produced both by foreign and Russian manufacturers. The canvas can be either white or black for surface mulching. Spunbond is used in many areas, and in horticulture it is especially valued among covering nonwovens, its density is from 17 to 60 g/m².

A long-known popular material for the needs of the gardener. I propose to consider various options for polyethylene film.

Polyethylene film - a well-known material for the needs of the gardener

This film is formulated with a UV light stabilizer to help protect polymer coating from the damaging rays of the sun. Film stability is determined from the amount of stabilizer added. A dye can also be added to the film, which changes the spectrum of sunlight. The film retains heat well and retains moisture without disturbing the structure and density of the soil. The use of a film helps to keep the fertilizer from washing out, so you can get earlier flowering and ripening of the crop.

Light stabilized film

Black and white film is interesting - one side of such a film is black and the other is white. It can be used in greenhouses, where it is covered with the ground with the white side up to reflect excess sunlight, while the black side does not allow weeds to break through.

Light stabilized film

• Reinforced film

This film has a wide range of applications, it is indispensable in the construction of greenhouses. Its uniqueness lies in its strength and resistance to mechanical impact. This is achieved due to manufacturing technology: a film of 3 layers, between 2 there is a reinforcing mesh. The composition of the reinforced film also usually includes UV stabilizers, which allow not only to evenly distribute the sun's rays, but also extend the life of the film.

Reinforced film for greenhouses. Photo from teplica-exp.ru

I myself have dealt with such material in everyday life. Almost served for 3 years, but then the coating had to be changed. I can’t say what factors caused the film to fail so quickly. Maybe the quality let us down, maybe the human factor. I will say one thing, after the film there was glass, now we are preparing to cover the greenhouse with polycarbonate, the only question is the price.

For clarity, I compiled a table with film indicators in order to better understand why and where it can be used.

Comparative table of films

Polyethylene film, as you know, does not allow moisture to pass through, freely transmits light (in the case of a transparent film) and keeps heat much better than spunbond. These are its advantages, thanks to which the film is great for creating mini-greenhouses. Its disadvantages also follow from this - possible overheating of the plant, the need to remove the film for watering and airing.

The polyethylene film does not allow moisture to pass through, transmits light (if transparent) and keeps heat better than spunbond

So, the film is good at the beginning of the season, so that the soil warms up faster, it helps if you need to protect the plants from excessive rainfall or, conversely, keep moisture underneath. If it became warmer, the climate is in order, then we boldly replace the film with spunbond and its analogues.

Polycarbonate

It is difficult to imagine a modern greenhouse without polycarbonate, this is one of the most reliable shelters for plants and the creation of all conditions for their growth and development. Such material is not afraid of rain, wind, or bacteria, it is durable, lightweight, holds heat well and transmits light.

Cellular polycarbonate. Photo from remkompbvd.ru

What is so remarkable cellular polycarbonate for greenhouses? Essentially, polycarbonate sheet plastic with cavities inside, something similar to "honeycombs". It is lighter than monolithic, has no smell. The sheets are strong, but at the same time quite light. So, for example, glass weighs 16 times more, and acrylic 3 times more than a sheet of cellular polycarbonate.

Cellular polycarbonate is not combustible, but it has excellent plasticity. Transparent polycarbonate is able to pass up to 92% of the sun's rays. In the manufacture of polycarbonate sheets, a UV stabilizer can also be added to them, which increases the life of this material.

The structure of cellular polycarbonate and the thickness of the sheet affect its scope. To better understand the thickness of polycarbonate of different structures, below is a table of indicators.

Polycarbonate indicators

The produced polycarbonate sheets have standard sizes of 2.1x2 m, 2.1x6 m and 2.1x12 m. The thickness is different, it can be from 3.2 mm to 3.2 cm. The produced cellular polycarbonate can be different colors. When choosing such a material, it should be remembered that the more complex its internal structure, the more reliably it protects against snow and wind.

Agrotextiles

Recently, there has been an increasing demand for agricultural fabrics, gardeners are attracted by the possibility of protecting crops from weeds. In addition, the manufacturing technology of such fabrics eliminates the use of herbicides, making the crop more environmentally friendly. This fabric is very convenient when placing plants on the ridge.

Agrofabric can be used not only in the fight against weeds, but also in greenhouses and greenhouses. Moisture lingers longer in the soil due to the retention of evaporation by the fabric. In addition, an optimal temperature regime for the plant is created.

Agrofabric, as well as non-woven material, is UV-stabilized. Its color can be either white or black, even green and gray are made to order. White agrofabric protects the plant from overheating and prevents UV rays from affecting the soil. Constantly in contact with water, the agrofabric does not begin to rot, it can regularly serve for about 5 years.

The labeling of agricultural fabrics depends on whether the fabric is striped or plaid. To better understand the labeling of agricultural fabrics, I give the following table:

Agrofabric marking

On our website you can choose the covering material according to your needs. Choose in the section

Growing cucumbers under covering material makes it possible to obtain a high-quality crop in the future. To grow plantings in this way, you will need to purchase an ordinary plastic film or a special covering material - spandbond, as well as follow certain rules for planting and care.

What care activities are carried out

As in growing in the usual way, cucumbers under the film need the following conditions:

• Irrigation with warm water.
• Good solar lighting.
• Application of phosphate fertilizers.
• The introduction of organic fertilizers.
• During the period of germination and the first inflorescences, nitrogen compounds are introduced.
• Constant loosening of the soil.
• Airing.

How is the preparation of planting material

Under the film involves, first of all, the correct preparation of seeds. Their germination is maintained for 7 years. It is not recommended to use fresh seeds for sowing, especially those that are harvested independently. It is better to keep them for several years, after which they can be used. The seeds are stored in a warm place. Preparation is carried out a few weeks before the proposed landing.

Procedures such as hardening and warming up are carried out. With their help, flowering improves, endurance to cold weather increases significantly. You need to choose high-quality, full-weight seeds. To determine their quality, you need to lower them into a saline solution - dip a teaspoon of salt into a glass of water, stir. Pour the seeds into a container. Poor quality and empty pop up, remove them. Those that remain at the bottom, rinse and dry.

The next step is seed hardening. To begin with, put a bag or container of seeds in a dry form in the refrigerator. Then for a month they transfer it to the heating source - to the stove or to the battery. Immediately before sowing, the seeds are soaked for 24 hours in warm, clean water.

When they swell, you can start planting. They also carry out additional treatment for various diseases using potassium permanganate.

This substance will also accelerate the germination of grains. Additionally, with potassium permanganate, a concentrated solution of aloe juice, a solution of wood ash is used. Then rinse and dry.

After such preparation, seeds can be planted in beds under a spunbond film.

Landing in the ground under the film

With this method of growing cucumbers in the ground, you can plant them a few weeks earlier than simply planting cucumbers in open ground. If weather conditions allow, the temperature indicator has risen to 22-23 degrees, it is resistant, you can plant seeds under a spunbond film.

If conditions are favorable, the harvest will be early and of high quality. After planting the seeds, the greenhouse is covered using a two-layer spunbond. So if climate indicators will be too low, the spunbond is not removed. So covering material will protect young sprouts even during frosts.

The site for planting plants should be accessible to the sun's rays, should be protected from direct gusts of wind and drafts. When to plant cucumbers under the film - the best time is the second and third decade of May. At this time, there are no probable frosts, and the soil is warm.

You can also help warm the soil. To do this, set the arc over the site for a while. So the soil warms up faster. Then make grooves along the beds, fill them with heated water.

Sow pre-wetted and swollen seeds, observing certain intervals, at least 10 centimeters, the depth should be 4 centimeters. Top the planted seeds with soil. Once again, fill the pits with heated water, cover with spunbond film material. The use of such material will increase the germination of seeds, keep the heat inside the greenhouse, and increase the yield.

Until the first young sprouts appear, do not open the beds. When the seedlings grow, they swoop down, simply removing the extra shoots. Only removing them must be very careful not to damage the young roots.

As a result, there should be an interval of 25 centimeters between plantings. Experienced summer residents it is recommended that when the branches are of normal thickness, when they will not be damaged, simply tilt the bushes and spread them out in different directions.

Thanks to this procedure, from the branches that touch the ground, new roots will subsequently appear. You can even sprinkle some soil on the internode to increase the number and density of the roots.

Features of growing under spunbond film

You can also try another way by creating your own warm cucumber beds. To do this, the future site is prepared in advance for planting seeds or seedlings. Dig up the plot, the bottom layer is manure, which is a biofuel for bushes.

Its layer should be about a quarter of a meter. Sprinkle the organic ball with earth on top of 15–20 centimeters. Usually a greenhouse is prepared in advance, in the first decade of May.

After laying fertilizers, the soil should stand, warm up. When active growth begins and the appearance of inflorescences, carbon dioxide will begin to be released.

Instead of manure, you can also use dry grass, rotted compost. They remove a layer of soil, about 15–20 centimeters, and an organic layer is laid on top - thin twigs, hay, grass, leaves, sawdust. This layer is well trampled to create even more heat from the organic layer.

It is recommended to add at least a small amount of manure along with the grass. In combination with other components, manure will actively generate heat. And the grass and other components will keep this heat in the garden. So the cucumber bush will grow and develop fully, without suffering from various types of rot and other diseases that often develop under the influence of cold and increased dampness.

Then pour over with heated water, in which a small amount of potassium permanganate was previously mixed. The last layer is the earth, which was previously removed from the beds. If the soil is of high quality, fertile, you can not add anything else.

If the ground is poor useful substances, you can additionally add mullein or compost. Next, cover the beds with foil. After a week, you can start sowing seeds. After planting the seeds, cover the film. If the weather is warm, open the greenhouse every morning, and cover it again in the evening. Such procedures should be carried out until the second decade of June, after which the covering material can be removed.

How to care for cucumber crops

Since this culture has roots close to the surface, they need constant loosening and constant irrigation. You can use a drip irrigation system. In order to retain moisture in the beds, it is recommended to lay mulch.

Watering is carried out at least three times a week. It is better to carry out water procedures in the evening, when the heat subsides a little. If the weather is too hot, it is recommended to irrigate the soil under the root without affecting the leaves. In extreme heat, young plants are recommended to be shaded.

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Growing seedlings for planting, see the article

ordinary garden

Ridges for cucumbers are prepared in advance in a warm and lit place, where they were not cultivated in the previous year. cucurbits(cucumbers, zucchini, squash) - to prevent the appearance of diseases and pests.

In autumn, after harvesting tomato, cabbage, root crops or greens, the garden bed is sprayed with a solution blue vitriol(1 tbsp per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1 liter per 1 sq.m of beds, or with the preparation "Oxyx", or "Hom" (30 - 40 g is diluted per 10 liters of water). After that, all plant residues are removed from the garden and burned. Before digging, add 1 cup of "Deoxidizer" to the garden bed, 1 teaspoon of superphosphate and nitrophoska per 1 sq.m. The bed is dug up to a depth of 20 - 25 cm and left until spring.

In the spring, 10 days before sowing or planting, if the soils are clayey or loamy, 3 kg of manure humus, peat, old wood sawdust are added per 1 square meter of beds and dug to the depth of a bayonet shovel. If there is no humus, then organic fertilizer "Breadwinner" or fertilizer "Fertility" is added to the dug-up bed, 2 tbsp each. spoons per 1 sq.m.

Then it is leveled and watered with a hot (60 ° C) solution of "Ideal" (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 2 - 3 liters per 1 sq. M or sodium humate (1 tablespoon of liquid sodium or potassium humate per 10 liters of water) 2 - 3 liters per 1 sq.m. Then the bed is covered with a clean film before sowing or planting cucumbers.

After a week, the film is opened, a groove 2 cm deep is made along the beds in the middle, water is poured with warm (50 ° C) water and seeds are sown at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. The sown seeds are covered with soil, lightly (by hand) tamped, but not watered from above. The bed is covered with covering material. When the plants reach a height of 10-12 cm, install arcs 60-70 cm high, which are covered with a new plastic wrap. At the end of the frost (June 12), the film is replaced with a covering material. If the cucumbers are self-pollinating, the covering material is lifted only during watering, fertilizing, shaping and harvesting fruits. The rest of the time (day and night until the late autumn) cucumbers should be covered. If the cucumbers are bee pollinated, the covering material during flowering is half lifted from the warm, windless side.

Cultivation of cucumber in the open field on the beds of plant debris

In open ground, it is better to grow cucumbers on the so-called garden bed of plant debris. In this case, the yield is higher than on the usual one. A bed of plant debris includes: cut grass (nettle, sedge, quinoa, wormwood, willow-herb, etc.), fallen leaves of poplar, linden, birch, coniferous needles, as well as wood shavings, sawdust, chopped straw, etc. This cannot be included
tops of cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes - all this is burned in a fire for ashes.

It is advisable to collect plant debris in the fall and leave it in a pile. With the advent of spring, under a warm bed, choose a place protected from the wind and well lit by the sun. All garbage is thoroughly mixed and on a chosen flat place a bed is made 50-60 cm high (in compacted form), 70-80 cm wide (arbitrary length). The bed is watered with hot water and compacted tightly, walking along the bed.

When the bed is ready, it is treated against pests and diseases that may be in plant debris. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 package (20 g) of Oxyhom and 1 tablet of Iskra. Then the bed is sprinkled with wood ash or crushed charcoal or chalk on top, 1-2 cups per 1 sq.m.

After we pour the soil mixture with a layer of 12-15 cm. It consists
from peat, sod land, humus and sawdust. It should be noted that turf land can only be taken from the site where they grew perennial herbs at least 5 years.

For 1 sq.m of beds, add organic and mineral fertilizers to the poured soil mixture: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of the drug "Breadwinner", 2 tbsp. spoons of "Deoxidizer" and 1 teaspoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska (instead of superphosphate and potassium sulfate).

We close up the applied fertilizers with an iron rake to a depth of 5-7 cm and level it. The bed is ready. We cover with a new covering material or plastic wrap before sowing or planting cucumber seedlings. Deadlines depend on weather conditions and from a permanent place of residence in the country, it fluctuates from May 9 to May 20.

You can get an earlier crop of cucumbers in the open field, also in a garden of plant debris, but it is done differently. In spring, all plant debris is also raked at the end of April so that it warms up in the sun. At the beginning of May, beds 70-80 cm high, 100-110 cm wide and of arbitrary length are made from it, watered with hot water. The bed is carefully tamped, then holes are made in two rows at a distance of 70 cm in the center of the holes. The holes in the bed are staggered, the diameter of the hole is 30 cm, the depth is 30 cm. Before filling with soil, the prepared bed is again watered with hot water. Then they are also treated against diseases and pests, like the previous bed. Then the bed is sprinkled with chalk, fluffy lime or wood ash at the rate of 2 cups per 1 sq.m.

Separately prepare the soil. Take 1 bucket of peat, turf land, humus, sawdust. Everything is mixed and for 1 bucket of the resulting mixture add 1 teaspoon of superphosphate and nitrophoska, 1 tablespoon of organic fertilizer "Deoxidizer" and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of Fertility fertilizer, mix thoroughly. In May, the prepared soil mixture is added to each hole with a layer of 20 cm, and the entire bed on top (except for the holes) is covered with sawdust, peat humus with a layer of 2-3 cm to cover the debris and give the bed a neat look. Then the bed is watered with a warm (40 ° C) solution of Agricola-5 fertilizer (20 g of granules) or Ideal (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), watered 5-8 liters per 1 sq.m. Then the bed is covered with plastic wrap for heating. Sowing begins in mid-May, using dry, swollen or slightly pecked seeds.

In order to get a higher yield, they sow seeds of not one, but three to seven varieties (for example: from self-pollinated - Masha, Bianka, Nord, Claudia FMarinda, Matilda; from bee-pollinated - Zhuravlyonok F1, Lord F1, Farmer F1, Sister Alyonushka F1 , Brother Ivanushka F1, Parker and others). Up to 3 seeds of the same variety are sown in each hole, i.e. five holes - five varieties, then in the same sequence. Before sowing, the wells are watered with warm water at the rate of 1 liter per well. Seeds are sown in holes to a depth of 2 - 2.5 cm at a distance of 5 cm from each other. After germination, only 2 plants are left in the hole, the third plant, the weakest, is removed. After sowing, the bed is tightly covered with a light plastic film, pulling it tightly from all four sides of the bed, the film is covered with soil or slats from below.

If a cold snap is expected after sowing, then for insulation from above the film can be covered at night with some other additional material. After five days, seedlings of cucumbers appear.

After another 10 - 12 days, when the cucumber plants are already slightly touching the film, it is cut out with scissors around the circumference of the hole. The rest of the bed remains covered with a film until the end of the growing season (i.e. until the end of summer). After that, the soil moisture in the hole is carefully determined by hand and, if the soil is dry, the plants are watered at the rate of 0.5 liters of water in each hole.


In order for the plants in the hole not to fall, a mixture of sawdust and peat is added to them with a layer of 3-5 cm, you can add the prepared soil "Live Earth" also with a layer of up to 5 cm. They are poured only into the holes. Caring for cucumbers in such a bed consists in fertilizing and watering and processing against pests and diseases. Cucumbers are fed once a week.

Root dressings begin to be carried out 2 weeks after germination.
1st top dressing - for 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of organic fertilizer "Barrier" and 20 g (granules) of fertilizer "Agricola-5", spending a solution of 0.5 l per 1 well.

2nd feeding - for 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of organic fertilizer "Breadwinner" and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of liquid fertilizer "Agri-cola-forward".

3rd top dressing - for 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of liquid fertilizer "Ideal".

4th top dressing - organic fertilizer "Fertility" and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of Agricola Vegeta liquid fertilizer.

Every two weeks do foliar top dressing. On warm days, in order to avoid burns, they are sprayed in the morning before 11 o'clock or after 17 o'clock.

Top dressing:

1. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of liquid fertilizer "Ideal".

2. Growth regulator "Bud" 10 g per 10 liters of water.

3. Liquid fertilizer "Agricola-vegeta" - 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.

4. Granular fertilizer "Agricola-5" is diluted with 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.

Alternate all of the listed root and foliar top dressings during the entire growing season of cucumber cultivation.

Feeding up with the latest organic fertilizers, you will receive environmentally friendly products with improved taste and nutritional properties. Products will not contain nitrates and salts of heavy metals. And the plants themselves will provide an intensive increase in green mass, the growth of ovaries and protection from pests and diseases.

Scourges of cucumbers form up to 1 - 1.2 m, then pinch the top, and pinch the side shoots by 40 - 50 cm. Warm (24 ° C) water is poured into the wells until fruiting, 2 - 3 liters twice a week, and during fruiting 3 - 4 liters three times a week. On such a bed, the harvest is much higher than on ordinary ones. In addition, with this method, watering is carried out only in the holes, there is no need to destroy weeds, which almost do not grow under the film.

Cucumber plants are less affected by fungal diseases, their root system develops well. Such care activities as loosening, bedding are excluded, and the lashes of cucumbers that are on top of the film are always clean.

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably lying on the ground, but you should not repeat this experience in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, a garter. My neighbors use all sorts of pegs, garters, loops, ready-made plant supports, and mesh fences. Each method of fixing the plant in an upright position has its own advantages and "side effects". I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises, and what comes of it.

Flies - a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers infectious diseases hazardous to both humans and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of nasty insects. In this article, we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly protection products and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of drugs to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and without extra costs.

The summer months are the time for hydrangeas to bloom. This beautiful deciduous shrub is luxuriously fragrant with flowers from June to September. Florists willingly use large inflorescences for wedding decors and bouquets. To admire the beauty of a flowering hydrangea bush in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. Why this happens, we will tell in the article.

Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are the three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects the appearance and yield of plants, and in advanced cases may lead to their death. But at the same time, not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of the same nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, are one of the early fragrant berries that summer generously endows us with. How we rejoice in this harvest! In order for the “berry boom” to repeat every year, we need to take care of caring for berry bushes. The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in spring, and berries in summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory snack for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but the process is laborious and time consuming. According to my recipe, it’s easy to cook pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and a spicy snack will be ready by the evening. The watermelon marinated with spices and chili is stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of preservation - chilled, this snack is just licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest - blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Reddening stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

Thick Chickpea Soup with Vegetables and Egg is an easy recipe for a hearty first course inspired by Oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and the countries of Southeast Asia. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your liking. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in melted butter (ghee) or mix olive oil and butter in a saucepan, this, of course, is not the same, but it tastes similar.

Plum - well, who does not know her ?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, it surprises excellent harvests, pleases with its variety in terms of ripening and a huge selection of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, somewhere she feels better, somewhere worse, but almost no summer resident refuses to grow her on her plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in the middle lane, but also in the Urals, in Siberia.

Many ornamental and fruit crops, except for drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period - from the sun's rays, enhanced by the reflection from the snow. In this article we will talk about a unique preparation for protecting plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March, the sun's rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

“Each vegetable has its own time”, and each plant has its own optimal time for landing. Anyone who has experienced planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in spring, the plants have not yet started to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat, and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop in such a way that landings have to be carried out at the very height of summer.

Chile con carne translated from Spanish- chili with meat. This is a Texan and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and minced beef. In addition to the main products, there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, burning, very satisfying and amazingly tasty! You can cook a large pot, arrange in containers and freeze - a whole week will be a delicious dinner.

Cucumber is one of the most beloved garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. It's about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell in the article. An important point in the cultivation of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Now every gardener has the opportunity to grow absolutely organic, healthy fruits and vegetables in his own garden. The microbiological fertilizer Atlant will help in this. It contains helper bacteria that settle in the zone of the root system and begin to work for the benefit of the plant, allowing it to actively grow, stay healthy and give high yields. Usually, many microorganisms coexist around the root system of plants.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. In the assortment of the best indoor plants there are many beautifully flowering species. In the summer, when they receive the brightest lighting and the optimal duration of daylight hours, they are able to outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops look like living bouquets.