Diagram of an electrical circuit with a light bulb and a switch. Socket with a switch in one housing: types and connection. Parallel and serial connection

Good day, dear guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

A small preface.

Remember, a few days ago I installed an apartment? So yesterday the owner of this apartment called me asking for help.

According to him, the “light” disappeared in the corridor. I also suggested to him by phone that I check the serviceability of the lighting lamp, but he told me that he had checked the lamp and that it was working. Then I decided to visit him and see why there is no lighting in the corridor. But I told him that it was his, to which he convincingly assured me of the opposite.

Beginning of work

Here is a similar circuit, only instead of one light bulb, five are connected.

Attention!!! The switch should always break the phase, and not zero.

All this is necessary for our own sake. When replacing the lamp, it will be enough to turn off the switch, and there will be no voltage in the cartridge. Change yourself calmly. If you mix it up and switch zero with the switch, then when you replace the lamp, it will remain energized in any case. And this is very dangerous. Read my articles about and (example).

We are looking for a malfunction

Let's get back to the problem.

So, unscrewing the light bulb from the cartridge (E27) and turning on the switch, we check with the phase comes ( orange color according to the figure) from the switch to the lamp or not. In our case, the phase does not come to the lamp. This indicates the following faults. Either the switch itself is faulty, or there is an open circuit from the switch to the lamp (see the switch wiring diagram).

Having removed the key, we will see the screws securing the switch to the socket and the screws securing the wires to the switch. This is where we need to make sure that there is a phase on the outputs.

To do this, we again apply, and we measure the incoming phase and the outgoing one.

And here we were in for a "surprise".

The phase came to the switch, but did not leave it. This indicates that the switch itself is faulty. Therefore, it must be removed.

We turn off the voltage in the apartment with the help. By the way, this is a feature of this particular apartment. If you have several lines (groups) in your apartment or there are, then, accordingly, turn off the machine of the line (group) where the work will be carried out.

Then we unscrew the screws that secure the switch and carefully bend it. Please note that I have not yet unscrewed the screws for attaching the wires.

And what do we see?

And we see the following. One of the wires fell out of the switch terminal.

And we see that it is completely absent. This was to be expected, because. old enough.

The reason for the dropped wire is the weak pull of the wire fastening screws.

Completion of work

The fault has been corrected, the wire is inserted back into the terminal and the screws are tightened.

The switch is connected. It remains only to insert it into and tighten the screws securing the switch.

Now you can check your work. We turn on the voltage in the disconnected section of the circuit and check the operation single-gang switch. Everything is working properly.

P.S. Well, this is where we will finish the article, where I told you about the connection diagram of a single-gang switch and how to troubleshoot the wiring.

Any household electrical wiring implies the presence in it of such familiar elements as a lamp, a switch, and. Based on the seeming simplicity of their connection, many people install them on their own and often ignore the basic installation rules.

Most often, errors are made when installing elements of the electrical network combined in one housing. And since recently many homeowners have increasingly had a desire to save space and time due to such a combination, this topic should be considered in more detail.

Twin designs have become especially popular in last years with the development of new principles for the optimal organization of technological space of premises.

Previously, while there was no need to combine together within one housing different functional elements of the electrical network, the wire connection of the socket and the switch was carried out in a separate location, and the indicated elements themselves were “carried” to the places that were intended for them according to the project.

Now this electrical connection possible and it demonstrates certain functional benefits before split.

Among its advantages are the following:

The pair is distinguished by a simpler connection scheme due to no need to run separate wires to every consumer.
United in one body, they are lighter mounted on any surface(stone, wood, plasterboard, concrete). At the same time, the number of mounting holes and grooves for wiring will be minimal.
Easier layout of the installation site– its parameters are common for both components.
In one device, you can combine more expensive and quality products with cheaper components (unless, of course, there is a practical need for this).

The system has a switch along with a socket and their shortcomings. But there are so few of them that most often it is possible to remember the only significant minus. So, if even one of the elements fails, most likely, the entire unit will have to be replaced.

Learn from this video how, using the connection diagram, you can connect a block switch (combined, double, built-in,) with a socket in one housing:

Varieties, designs and average prices

When choosing one or another electrical component, one should proceed from:

technical parameters and capabilities of the power grid;
functionality of the product (depending on how many and what power appliances will be connected);
its design (shape, color, etc.).

All these purchase issues must be resolved almost simultaneously, although technical specifications and functionality still go a little ahead.

Today, the electrical industry produces products with the most different combinations elements. The consumer can choose products depending on the number of sockets, switches and keys in the switch in the assembly.

It should also be remembered that There are indoor and outdoor sockets.: the former are used for hidden wiring, the latter for. outdoor option looks more bulky, but it can not be dispensed with if it is impossible or difficult to mount in the room concealed wiring.

Before buying it is necessary find out how many electrical appliances and light sources will be connected to the network in this room. If you plan to install a socket with a switch during wet room(bathroom, shower, bath, etc.) or outdoors, you need to make sure that special protective covers (curtains) are available.

As for price indicators, they vary depending on the type of product, manufacturer and place of sale.

For example, a paired socket and 1-key switch can be bought for less than 200 rubles. average cost 2-key package with Euro socket for powering devices up to 3.5 kW can be approx. 300 rubles. A similar but waterproof model can cost up to 450 rubles. The power single-key version for three sockets will most likely cost the buyer already more than 1000 rubles.

Installation

If the master decides to self-installation, he does not need to have any special specialized tool. It is enough that he had:

Preliminary preparation for all structural variants of these blocks is as follows.

Need to turn off the power. Appropriate markings are made at the place chosen on the wall. AT right points mounting holes are drilled in the wall with a crown, after which a niche is made (with hidden wiring). Perforated holes for cables break out on the box body.

Single key block

The socket combined with a 1-gang switch in one housing is the most popular. The connection of such a pair occurs as follows (diagram 1):

two-wire () connects to the junction box.
A double wire connects the light source to the junction box.
3 wires from the twin socket-switch are brought into the box.
It is necessary to make sure that from the phase terminal in the box the wire goes to the socket terminal, and from the socket to one of the contacts of the switch.
Lighting device connected to junction box, with one of its wires it connects to "zero", and with the other it goes to the free terminal of the switch.
If grounding is provided in the Eurostandard block, it must be connected to the ground terminal in the box.

Two-key device

When installing such a unit, it becomes possible, in addition to connecting any consumers through a socket, control the light in at least two different rooms or different light sources in the common room.

To perform such an installation (diagram 2), you must do the following:

From the junction box, 5 wires are connected to the twin unit.
Connect to outlet only neutral wire and ground wire.
"Phase" on the double switch is supplied through a special jumper in the switching unit.
2 free wires are connected to 2 switching terminals of the switch.
In the distribution box, twists are made from the wires supplying the "phase" and the wires going to the lamps in different rooms.

We bring to your attention the connection diagram in the junction box two-gang switch and two sockets

Whatever configuration the master chooses, he must thoroughly study and work out the schematic diagram of all connections and connections before starting installation.

Eventually correct installation a socket connected to a switch is not only a high-quality work of electrical appliances, but also the safety of a house and a person.

Before a person who is poorly versed in electricity, there are problems connecting several light bulbs. When the wiring is already done, all the work is to replace the burnt out lamps. But there are situations when you need to add one or more light bulbs to existing system. Here you will already need elementary knowledge of electrical engineering and the ability to draw up a wiring diagram.

Parallel connection of luminaires to power wires

Spotlights came into fashion, as a result, the number of light sources in houses and apartments increased significantly, and special attention was paid to lighting. The photo above shows suspended ceiling fixtures with parallel connection. Through terminal blocks lamps are connected to phase (L) and neutral (N) wires.

At first glance, there is nothing complicated here, but for a long and reliable operation everything must be done according to the rules you need to know.

Connection diagram

To create light bulb connections, first of all, you need to draw a simplified wiring diagram connections and power connections. It is compiled according to certain rules:

conductors are graphically indicated by straight continuous lines;
connections are indicated by dots (if there are more than two), if there are no dots, then the wires intersect;
electrical fittings and wiring on the plan are depicted in accordance with GOST 21.614 and GOST 21.608.

Parallel and serial connection

To ignite the most simple lamp incandescent, you need to connect its contacts to phase (L) and zero (N). Two wires come to it from a junction box or from an outlet. The parallel circuit involves connecting several light bulbs to common phase and neutral wires (Fig. a below). Here, three incandescent lamps are connected in parallel. For convenience, a switch is installed in the circuit. circuit diagram(Fig. b) depicts the connections more clearly.

Scheme of parallel connection of light bulbs

The advantage of a parallel connection is the ability to connect electricity consumers to the mains voltage. To the lamps in fig. you can add a few more above, but the current will increase, and the voltage will remain the same.

Current strength ( I ) in the supply wires is equal to the sum of the current strengths of all sections ( I 1 , I 2 , I 3 ) connected in parallel (Fig. b above):

I \u003d I 1 + I 2 + I 3.

The power of the circuit (P) is found as the sum of the powers of all sections ( R 1, R 2, R 3 ):

P \u003d P 1 + P 2 + P 3.

Resistance (R) for three loads is determined from the expression:

1/R = 1/R 1 + 1/R 2 + 1/R 3 ,

where R 1, R 2, R 3 are the resistances of the light bulbs.

Lamp types and wiring diagrams

Connecting incandescent lamps, as described above, is not particularly difficult. But the scheme of halogen and fluorescent lamps has some differences.

Halogen

Low voltage power supply increases the safety of light sources operation. In this case, the brightness remains the same. Halogen lamps can be used with step-down transformers for 6, 12 and 24 V (fig. below).

Halogen lamp connection diagram

Voltage 220 V is supplied to a small electronic transformer, which can even be built into the switch housing. Low voltage halogen lamps often used in suspended ceilings. They are connected in parallel and connected to a transformer. The photo below shows a block diagram with two transformers. Voltage 220 V is supplied to them through a junction box. The neutral wire is marked in blue, and the phase wire is brown, with a switch inserted into the gap.

Wiring diagram for halogen lamps

Groups of lamps are interconnected in parallel in a junction box, after which the supply wires are branched to the primary windings of the transformers.

The lamps are connected to the secondary winding of 12 V in parallel with each other. Terminal blocks are used to connect them (not shown in the diagram).

output wire low voltage should not be longer than 2 meters. Otherwise, voltage losses increase, and the lamps will glow worse. It will be better if you make a voltage calculation for all lamps.

Calculation example

An example of calculating the voltage on light bulbs depending on the losses in the wires is as follows. With a supply voltage of V=12 V, 2 bulbs with resistances R1 = R2 = 36 Ohm are connected in parallel to the transformer. The resistances of the lead wires to them are equal to r1 = r2 = r3 = r4 = 1.5 Ohm. You need to find the voltage at each light bulb. The scheme is shown in fig. below.

Losses in light bulb power wires

The voltage on the first and second bulbs will be:

V 1 \u003d VR (2r + R) / (4r 2 + 6rR + R 2) \u003d 10.34 V,

V 2 \u003d VR 2 / (4r 2 + 6rR + R 2) \u003d 9.54 V.

It can be seen from the calculation that even small resistances of the supply wires lead to a significant voltage drop across them.

The total load in the circuit is maintained at 70-75% of the maximum so that the transformers do not overheat.

Fluorescent

The disadvantage of fluorescent lamps is the flickering effect, which impairs the perception of light by the eyes. Modern electronic ballasts (ballasts) solve this problem, but their price is higher. To reduce ripple when using an electromagnetic ballast, a two-lamp connection scheme is used, where on one of the lamps the phase is shifted in time. As a result, the total luminous flux is equalized.

On fig. below is a diagram of a split-phase luminaire. Two lamps are connected to the AC voltage in parallel. Both of them contain inductive ballasts (L 1) and (L 2). But an additional ballast capacitor (C b) is connected to the lamp (2), due to which a current shift in phase by 60 0 is created.

Scheme of a two-lamp lamp

As a result, the total pulsation of the luminous flux of the lamp is reduced. In addition, the external circuit current is almost in phase with the supply voltage through a combination of leading and lagging circuits, which improves the power factor.

Video about connections

About the features of parallel and serial connection tells the video below.

Thus, in order to properly connect the light bulbs in a house or apartment, you must do the following:

draw a circuit diagram of the lighting system;
perform wiring calculations;
select electrical equipment, fittings and fixtures;
correctly install the bulbs.

Connecting the switch from the outlet is a procedure, although not very complicated, but often helps to solve a lot of problems. First of all, it concerns questions additional connection lighting systems.

Indeed, thanks to such a connection, we can significantly save not only on wires, but also on the number of additional work such as wall chasing. Therefore, if you are faced with the problem of connecting additional lighting and do not want to renovate the room in a new way, this option will be the ideal solution.

Before proceeding directly to the connection process, you should perform a number of preparatory work and determine the location of the future switch. To preparatory work we attribute the work associated with the choice of wire, the switch itself and the circuit that it will power.

Wire selection

Before you connect the switch from the outlet, we should choose the right wire that will be connected. After all right choice wires will greatly reduce the chance of fire or other breakdowns.

So:

To select a wire, we should know the rated power of the switched electrical appliances, from which it is then not difficult to derive the rated current. This is done according to the formula, where I is the rated current, P is the rated power, and U is the rated voltage, which is 220V for a single-phase network.
Having calculated the rated current, we can use Table 1.3.4 of the PUE for copper conductors or Table. 1.3.5 for aluminum wires, to select their nominal section (see).

Note! In most cases, when the switch is connected from the outlet, it switches one or two light bulbs. Because of this, the rated current is small and, according to Table. 1.3.4 and 1.3.5 you can use a wire of small cross section. But according to Table 7.1.1 PUE, the cross section of this wire in any case cannot be less than 1 mm 2 for copper wire or 2.5 mm 2 for aluminum.

Another aspect to consider when choosing a wire is the way it is routed. Indeed, in the case of its laying indoors open way on insulators, according to Table 2.1.1 of the PUE, its minimum cross section should be 1.5 and 4 mm 2, respectively, for copper and aluminum wires.
If the wire is to be used for outdoor laying in an open way on rollers or insulators, then its cross section should generally be at least 2.5 and 4 mm 2, respectively, for copper and aluminum wires.

Switch selection

Before you power the switch from the outlet, it is important to choose the switch itself correctly. This aspect is often neglected, which is why circuit breakers often fail. This aspect is especially important if the switch will switch large loads.

First of all, we select the switch according to the rated current. When choosing a wire, we have already calculated the rated current of our network, therefore, using the same numbers, we select the rated current of the switch. At the moment, models in 6, 10 and 16A are presented on the market. You can find more powerful switches, but they are rare.
The next important selection factor is the way the circuit breaker is mounted. For hidden wiring, a recessed version of the switch is used, and for open wiring, respectively, with an outer box. Here the choice depends entirely on the method of laying your electrical wiring. The only exceptions are bathrooms and showers, in which clause 12.22 of VSN 59 - 88 recommends using only concealed wiring. But given that it is forbidden to place switches in these rooms, the method of mounting the switch can be any at your discretion.

Also, our instructions advise taking into account the installation location of the switch. For outdoor installation switches with IP not lower than 44 should be used. Of course, it is better to use switches with more a high degree dust and moisture protection, but the price of such models increases in proportion to the level of protection.

We connect the switch from the socket

There are two options for how to power the switch from the outlet. These methods do not differ fundamentally, and by and large the choice of each of them is carried out based on the location of the fixtures themselves.

If the lamp is located next to a switch or socket, then it is advisable to connect the "zero" directly from the latter. If the luminaire is far enough away, then in order to save wires and make it more aesthetically pleasing, it is better to connect the neutral wire in the junction box.

Connecting the phase and neutral wires from the outlet

by the most in a simple way how to make a switch from a socket is an option for powering both phase and neutral wires directly from the contacts of the latter. This method will be very convenient when the lamp is located in the immediate vicinity of the switch.

So:

In order to do it yourself, you first need to mount the lamp and switch. Only then should you proceed directly to the connection.
At the first stage, we remove the voltage from the outlet. You can do it in groups circuit breaker for a specific group. If you do not have a division into groups, then you will have to relieve tension from the whole apartment.
At the next stage, we open the outlet to which the connection is to be made and check the absence of voltage.
If the wiring in your apartment or house is made in accordance with clause 1.1.29 of the PUE, then the blue wire is the neutral wire, the yellow-green wire is the protective wire, and the third wire is the phase wire. If a color designation you have not completed, then we briefly apply voltage to determine the wires.
Now we connect a wire to the phase contact of the socket, which we attach with the second end to the input of the switch. We connect a wire to the switch output, which is connected directly to the lamp.

Note! If a two- or three-gang switch is used, then the wires from the switch terminals are connected to the corresponding fixtures. The rest of the wiring diagram is identical.

We attach a wire to the zero contact of the socket, which is attached to the output of the lamp with the second end. We also connect the protective wire to the corresponding contact of the lamp.
This completes our connection. Now you can lay the wires, insulate the live parts and apply voltage to test our circuit.

Connection from the socket only phase wire

Since only the phase wire opens in the switch, it is sometimes much easier to take only the phase wire from the socket. The neutral wire is easier to connect directly to the junction box closest to the lamp.

Thanks to this, you will not only save wires, but also greatly facilitate your task of laying wires.

Before you hold the switch from the outlet, as in the first option, you should remove the voltage from the outlet. In addition, we should remove the voltage from all the wires passing in the junction box, in which the neutral wire is to be connected.
Now we open the outlet and check the absence of voltage. We attach a wire to the phase output of the socket, which is also connected to the input of the switch. And the wire from the output of the switch is connected directly to the lamp.
Now open the junction box. Determine the neutral wire. Perhaps it will even be a whole tavern with zero wires. We connect a wire to it, which we then connect to the lamp. In the same way, we connect the protective wire to the corresponding contacts in the lamp and in the junction box.
After laying and insulating the wires, you can apply voltage and test the performance of our circuit.

Note! Due to the fact that only one phase wire is needed for the normal operation of the switch, the question: how to remove the socket from the switch has an unambiguous answer - no way. Unfortunately, the socket cannot be connected from the switch. It is only possible to connect the phase wire, and the zero lead from the junction box. But this option is not the best. After all, often the current at the outlet is much higher than at the lighting network, and the wire of a small section of the lighting network, when connected to it, will also simply burn out the socket.

Conclusion

Now you know that connecting any switch from the outlet is quite simple. And the video on the pages of our site will help you understand this issue in more detail. We only recall the unsafe performance of such work and the associated mandatory compliance with labor protection requirements.

Many homeowners have to change or install switches. Most commonly used single-gang switch wiring diagram- one of the simplest circuits for turning on lamps or lamps. This article describes step by step how such a scheme is assembled.

Before starting any work related to electricity, the first step is to de-energize the wiring - turn off the introductory machine, and also take measures to ensure that no one accidentally turns it on.

This is especially important if the electrical panel is located on landing in high-rise building or on the street.

For installation and switch connections will need:

- the switch itself;
- junction box;
- connecting wires;
- insulating PVC tape.

Connection diagram of the switch in the junction box

Connecting the wire directly to a light or switch is quite simple - it does not require explanation.

This article will discuss how to connect wires from a lamp, an electrical panel and a switch in one junction box.

Once again, we want to remind you that all work on connecting wires in the junction box, connecting the switch and fixtures should begin only after the mains voltage is removed.

Following this simple rule when the switch breaks exactly the phase, and not zero, you will ensure your safety, and also make safe operation electrical equipment in your apartment.

If the switch does not disconnect the phase from the load, but the neutral wire, then the wiring will always remain energized, which is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous.

For example, you need to replace a light bulb that burned out in a chandelier. If the switch turns off the neutral wire, and not the phase, if you accidentally touch the current-carrying parts of the chandelier or the base of the light bulb, you may be struck electric shock, since these parts are under phase voltage.

You can determine the phase wire in the distribution wiring using an indicator screwdriver.

Again, for safety reasons, the phase wire (usually red) must be connected to the lamp socket in such a way that the bulb is connected to the phase by the central contact of the base.

This reduces the likelihood that a person will touch the phase wire.

Switch wiring diagram consists of one or more electric bulbs connected in parallel, a single-gang switch, a junction box and a 220 volt power source.

Specialized stores offer a wide range of wires for electrical wiring, so it is better to take wires for phase and zero different colors such as red and blue.

So, a two-wire cable is suitable from the switchboard to the junction box. It is very convenient if it is two-color, for example, the phase wire is red, and the zero wire is blue.

In addition to it, the cable from the lamp and the cable from the switch are suitable for the junction box. The phase wire from the switchboard (red) is connected to the red wire going to the switch.

The second (blue) wire from switch connects to the red wire, which is connected to the load (lamp, chandelier). As a result, we made the phase that goes to the lamp switched.

Zero wire ( of blue color) from the electrical panel is connected to the neutral wire, which goes to the load (light bulb).

As a result, it turns out that the neutral wire from the junction box goes directly to the light bulb, and the phase is connected to the light bulb through a switch.

The scheme works as follows. When the switch button is pressed, the circuit is closed, and the phase from the electrical panel is supplied to the lamp, its lamp starts to shine. By pressing the button again, the electrical circuit is broken and the lamp turns off.

After all connections, the twisting points are well insulated and neatly stacked. It is best to connect the wires in the junction box by twisting with soldering.

Scheme of connecting a socket and a switch in one junction box

Very often, a junction box is installed in each room of the apartment, where all the switches, lamps and sockets of this room are connected.

In this case, due to a large number wires suitable for the junction box, it is quite difficult to figure out what and where to connect.

How to connect a socket and a switch to a junction box?

Consider the option when a socket and a lamp are simultaneously connected to one junction box.

So, two wires come from the switchboard to the box - red (phase) and zero (blue).

The procedure for connecting the switch and the lamp is exactly the same as discussed above.

The socket is connected in parallel with the supply wires: the phase of the socket is connected to the supply phase (both wires are red), and the zero from the socket is connected to the neutral supply wire (both wires are blue).

The connected wires must be well crimped and soldered, after which they are securely insulated and neatly placed in the box.

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