Is it possible to cut osb plate with a chainsaw. How to properly fix OSB boards to the wall from the outside of the house. Which side to mount OSB sheets

Oriented strand board or OSB is an indispensable attribute of any modern construction site. The material is used both for exterior and interior decoration, it can play the role of a bearing or connecting element, for example, in a roofing pie, or it can be an independent solution, for example, as interior walls or ceilings.

Which self-tapping screws to fix the OSB depends on the design features of the structure and the place of direct installation of chipboards.

The versatility of OSB is truly unmatched. It is used with equal success at any stages and cycles of construction.

In order to consider everything possible options fixing OSB plates, it will be convenient to divide their installation into several main groups:

roofing;
wall;
floor.

OSB fastening methods for roofing

The installation of OSB boards as one of the layers of the roofing pie requires increased attention to the strength characteristics of both the material itself and the fasteners used in the work.

Given the significant wind and snow loads on the roof plane, as well as the fact that roof structures are not a static, rigid structure, experts are advised to pay attention to the following points:

when laying OSB on the roof, priority should be given to special "ruff" or ring nails;
phosphated self-tapping screws used in the OSB installation are more fragile and have less strength when the structure moves;
the final choice of which self-tapping screws to fasten the OSB to the frame is up to the masters and depends on climatic conditions in the construction area;
length of nails or self-tapping screws used in roofing works oh, it is calculated by a simple formula: the thickness of the OSB sheet + a minimum of 40-45 mm at the entrance of the fasteners to the frame;
that is, if OSB sizes of 9 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm are considered standard, then, therefore, the length of the self-tapping screw will be in the range of 50-75 mm;
the fastener map looks like this: along the rafters, the pitch of the screws is 300 mm, along the joints of the plates - 150 mm, along the cornice or ridge cut - 100 mm and the indent from the edge of the sheet - at least 10 mm.

Conclusion! When installing OSB on a roof, special nails should be preferred due to their greater shear strength!

Vertical or wall mounting OSB

What self-tapping screws to fix the OSB in case of wall mounting? The question has an unambiguous and quite specific answer. If the recommended standard thickness used for vertical installation of OSB sheets is 12 mm, then, respectively, adding to this value the minimum required by the rules of 45-50 mm of the self-tapping body in the rack or frame, we get the answer -50-70 mm.

The fastener map is the same as the roofing one: in the middle of the sheet, the fasteners go in increments of 300 mm, at the joints of the plates the pitch decreases to 150 mm, the sides adjacent to the ceiling or floor are fastened through 100 mm. The indent from the edge is standard - 10 mm.

The choice of the form of self-tapping screws for vertical mounting is due to the need to hide the head flush with the wall plane. That is why self-tapping screws with a pan head are used on the facades and external planes of buildings, which, when twisted, not only sits in the pot, but also does not split the wood, preserving appearance walls.

Self-tapping screws for wall mounting can be replaced with nails with a spiral or ring thread. Their length is determined by multiplying the OSB thickness by a factor of 2.5. In our case, this is: 2.5 * 12 mm = 30 mm. This is the minimum allowed length.

Installation of OSB sheets in a horizontal plane: floor / ceiling

Dwell in detail on the choice of self-tapping screws for OSB installation not on the ceiling. The scheme, number and size of self-tapping screws used for these purposes repeats the above examples exactly.

The choice of self-tapping screws and fastener pattern when floor installation OSB is determined by the base on which the material is laid.

If it is a beam or rack frame, then phosphated self-tapping screws with a body length of at least 50 mm and a countersunk head are the ideal choice.

In the case of laying OSB on a rough, solid floor, galvanized double-threaded self-tapping screws are suitable. The procedure for determining the optimal length is indicated above.

If you read the article carefully, you have already noticed that regardless of the OSB installation location, the fastener map remains the same. Accordingly, the number of screws required for work will generally coincide.

The average consumption of self-tapping screws during OSB installation is about 30 pcs. per m². Accordingly, for the installation of a standard sheet, you will need about 75-100 pieces. self-tapping screws.

Now you know what self-tapping screws to fix OSB for high-quality and durable use of plates in combination with other building and finishing materials.

Advice! When buying, do not chase low prices and check the quality of the screws. Enough marriages. And there are no trifles at the construction site!

High-quality and reliable OSB (OSB) boards produced by LLC DOK Kalevala are widely used today in the fields of production and construction. Oriented strand boards are made from softwood chips and a binder by pressing under high temperature. Moreover, for the manufacture of one plate, three layers of wood chips are used, in each of which the chips are arranged parallel to each other and perpendicular to the chips of the adjacent layer. This gives the material increased strength.

OSB boards are very strong, reliable, easy to process and operate. They do not contain voids, knots, do not delaminate, do not deform under the influence of moisture. That is why OSB is used in modern construction and repair, in decorating rooms, in the production of packaging and furniture.

1. Selecting the appropriate type of slab

To carry out the work, it is necessary to choose the right size of the slab and the correct type of OSB in accordance with the humidity indicators at the facility and the level of the planned load.

There are the following modifications of plates: OSB-1. Suitable for indoor use with low air humidity and light load. They are general purpose structures. OSB-2. The boards are suitable for indoor use at low air humidity. They belong to the category of load-bearing structures. OSB-3. Can be used in high humidity conditions. They belong to the category of load-bearing structures. This type of plates is the most popular and in demand in the market.

How to cut chipboard (chipboard)

OSB-4. Plates can be used in conditions of high humidity. Differ in the increased indicators of resistance to loading.

In addition, OSB boards are available in various thicknesses and formats. The thickness of the plate can be from 9 to 25 mm, the size is up to 2800 x 1250 mm. Also, depending on the project, you can choose plates with a flat side edge, or with a groove-ridge edge, which allows them to be joined.

Give preference to products of the right type, depending on where they will be used, in order to increase the efficiency of material use.

2. Tips for acclimatizing stoves and protecting them from water and humidity

Before using OSB on a construction site, it is advisable to keep them in the conditions of a particular object for at least 48 hours. This will allow the material to acclimate.

In addition, it is important to protect the plates from the harmful effects of water and moisture during storage. And if the material has already been used to decorate the external surfaces of the object, protect it from precipitation by covering it with a dense film. Joints of OSB-3 boards are recommended to be sanded immediately before final finishing.

3. Specificity of material processing

Cutting, milling, drilling OSB can be carried out using a cutting tool or hard alloy drills. For cutting it is also possible to use hand power tool. It is important to note that before starting the processing, the OSB must be fixed, and the speed of the tools must be moderate.

4. Fixing plates and processing gaps

To fix the material, it is recommended to use screws, staples or nails (but not with a smooth rod). The same connecting elements as when working with solid wood are suitable, and their length should be at least 50 mm. Start fastening the OSB (OSB) of the plate from the middle of the upper part, gradually moving to the sides and down.

As for the gaps, when joining plates with smooth edges, as well as with other building structures, their width should be 3 mm. And if we are talking about plates with milled edges (with a “groove-comb” edge), then gaps between them are formed by themselves. In addition, when the plates are laid on the floor, a gap of 15 mm is left between them and the wall. And if the material is used for wall cladding, the gap between it and the foundation should be 10 mm.

5. Application of paints and varnishes to the surface of the material

For processing OSB boards, you can use the same varnishes and paints as when working with other types of wood. Moreover, they are used in strict accordance with the instructions.

6. Thermal and waterproofing OSB

As a heat-insulating material used in conjunction with slabs, mineral wool perfectly demonstrates itself. It is laid on the front side of the building.

If it is planned to install OSB on the facade, their joints are sealed with a special insulating tape or PUR or PVA glue is added to the groove-comb connection.

As for the joint between the slab and the foundation, it must be waterproofed. For this, for example, compositions based on bitumen are suitable.

7. Basic principles of storage and warehousing of material

The following requirements are imposed on the storage process of the OSB:

· Ensuring protection of structures from water (atmospheric precipitation, discharge from the ground, etc.);

Ensuring the protection of structures from moisture;

Ensuring good ventilation.

It is necessary to fold the plates on a flat surface (plank pallet or wooden grate) flat. Direct contact with the soil must be avoided.

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How to cut plywood?

Plywood is one of the most popular finishing materials today. In this regard, many people have a question, how to saw plywood? To answer it, it is worth reading some useful information.

"Golden" rules for cutting plywood

In order to cut plywood with the highest quality, it is necessary to adhere to several simple rules. First, you first need to cut across the fibers, and then along. This measure avoids splitting of corners and other deformations of the material.

Secondly, depending on the side of the cut, different tools should be used. So, if we are talking about the inside, then the most the best choice will be manual or band-saw. If you want to cut the material from the back, then you should use a contour or circular saw.

Thirdly, you need to know that when cutting with a hand-held circular saw, the speed should be maintained at high level. In this case, the material itself is best fed slowly and smoothly, otherwise there is a high risk of damaging the material.

Fourth, every person should know that, regardless of the type of saw, its teeth must be fine. In this case, the risk of defects, in the form of a sheet crease, is significantly reduced.

Finally, the fifth rule is to understand that when cutting, you need to stick adhesive tape. This allows you to protect the surface of the sheet from chipping.

Can it be cut with a regular hacksaw?

The above information can help a person deal with the question of how to saw plywood? Depending on the specific situation, the optimal tool may be different. But what to do if only a hacksaw is at hand?

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If everything is done correctly, even with the help of such a primitive tool, you can evenly cut the material.

So, if you immediately take up the hacksaw and start sawing after marking, the edges will turn out to be terribly uneven. This is due to the peculiarities of plywood, however, there is a way out. Before you start sawing, you need to pour boiling water over the material, let it soak a little, and then remove excess liquid. This measure allows you to achieve an even and smooth cut.

There is another way - before cutting, make cuts using sharp knife. Moreover, they should be located at a distance of only 1-2 mm from each other (depending on the thickness of the tool). This measure avoids the breakdown of the hacksaw and, as a result, an uneven cut.

Thus, it can be stated that any tool can produce a high-quality cut. The main thing is to follow simple rules for cutting. However, in order to guarantee the desired result, it is better to purchase professional tools or seek help from specialists.

Floor and ceiling

Do-it-yourself OSB laying on a wooden floor

OSB boards are a popular building material consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with resins, which has become an excellent replacement for fiberboard and chipboard. The gluing of the plates is carried out in several layers: to create external chips, they are laid along the length, and for internal ones - already in width. This placement gives OSB boards increased strength and gives them the ability to hold self-tapping screws (or other used fasteners) firmly.

How to properly fix OSB boards to the wall from the outside of the house.

Unlike fiberboard and chipboard sheets OSB have a normal thickness.

Several layers of OSB laid on the floor provide excellent sound insulation, increase thermal insulation characteristics, and also soften the impact with the floor when walking. Modern manufacturers refused to add toxic substances to the composition of the boards, so this building material is completely environmentally friendly.

With the help of OSB, a wooden floor is very often leveled, which has become unusable over time. OSB boards are easy to install, do not require special skills and tools, so it will not be difficult to correct uneven floors made of wood. How to do it yourself - read further in the material.

OSB on a wooden floor: how to lay down

If the main wooden surface has irregularities, then it is necessary to level the level with the help of special logs, and only then proceed with laying OSB sheets. Bars-clamps should be installed at an even distance from each other, taking into account the joints. In some cases, to eliminate the mobility of wooden boards, the floor will have to be sorted out (install new boards in problem areas). From a wooden surface, it is worth removing the influx of paint and protrusions with sandpaper. After that, it will not be superfluous to prime the wooden floor, although this is not necessary.

To ensure maximum reliability, the underside of the OSB sheets must be covered with waterproofing. If you intend to lay a laminate after the OSB boards, then it is worth making a vapor barrier on the surface of the boards with a foam film to prevent condensation.

Now we spread the OSB slabs on the floor so that the seams of the next row are offset. Joints in the form of a cross - should not be! There are also gaps between the plates - 3 mm, and along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm. After that, it is necessary to drill holes in the OSB sheets, and their diameter should be the same as that of wood screws, which will later fix the OSB plate to the floor. The holes themselves must be drilled at a distance of about 20-30 cm from each other.

Now you can start fixing the OSB boards to the wooden floor. Optimal length self-tapping screws - 45 mm and more. If there are no self-tapping screws, then nails can be used, but this is not the best alternative. To increase strength and other positive characteristics, it is possible to lay a second layer of OSB, but only so that the seams of the above and below layers are placed with an offset of 20-30 cm (that is, the placement of the seams of the first and second layers should not coincide).

At the end of the work, all gaps can be filled mounting foam, the remains of which are easily cut off with a construction knife after drying. That's actually the whole process.

Preparing OSB boards for finishing

If the natural pattern of OSB boards suits you, then you can varnish it, put skirting boards and the floor will be ready on this, but another type of finish can be installed on top of the boards. If nothing is planned to be installed over the plates, then in any case it is necessary to cover them with varnish or a special substance that will protect against bark beetles and excessive wear.

When laying laminate on top of OSB boards, no special requirements are put forward. It is enough to have a surface without sharp drops, and then the laminate, which is equipped with fasteners, will lie on the OSB boards without any problems.

But linoleum and carpet need a perfectly flat field. Even the smallest differences at the joints will make themselves felt when used, and outwardly it will not look attractive. If the carpet is laid elastic, then all the cracks and drops will be felt even when walking. To eliminate any unevenness in the floor before laying these roll materials it is best to cycle to get one level.

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OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern structural material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and is widely used in construction frame houses and decoration of buildings and structures. OSB boards are sheathed on interior and exterior walls, floors and roofs. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction, when the board acts as a structural material and serves to reinforce the walls of the building, or when it acts as a facade material for concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by a low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will consider the question: how to fix the OSB boards to the wall from its outer side.

When installing OSB boards to external walls, the crate is used for the following purposes:

alignment of the plane of the wall;
creation of a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB plate;
prevention of deformation of the slab caused by base movements, especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall over the insulation using the crate

The slab is fastened to the wall using a crate, which is made of a wooden block, or metal profile. The technologies for mounting OSB boards on a wall with a wooden crate and a crate made of a metal profile do not fundamentally differ. When choosing a bar, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed bar of 40-50 mm, then it will not turn out and will not lead after drying, which will positively affect the evenness of the entire wall.

To attach the bar and profile to the wall, special metal plates (suspensions) are used. Before attaching the suspensions, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which subsequently will ensure the joint of the plates right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB plate in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, hangers are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

A metal hanger is used to fasten the crate.
Hangers are attached along the marked lines. Hangers allow you to fix the crate over the insulation.

After that, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the crate is mounted.

It should be noted that a vapor barrier is not needed outside the building, since it prevents moist air from entering the insulation from inside the room, and from the outside of the building, excess moisture should freely go outside.

Wall with a crate. Insulation is laid between the crate and the wall.

After fixing the crate, you can proceed with the installation of OSB boards. For wall cladding, a plate from 9 to 12 mm thick is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. OSB boards are fastened to a crate of wooden beams with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet. To the crate from a metal profile - to self-tapping screws for metal 10-15 mm long more than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

With this installation, the crate weighs over the insulation, and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and the OSB boards. This solution achieves maximum efficiency heater work. In addition, between the bars of the crate is air gap, through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also increases its characteristics. More detailed information about the technology of a ventilated facade is in the article:.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

When building frame houses, the recommendations for choosing sheets are the same as for sheathing previously erected walls. The only difference is when the sheets act as a stiffening element. In this case, their thickness must be at least 12 mm. The recommended thickness is usually 15-18 mm.

When installing walls with a wooden frame, two main approaches are used: fastening OSB sheets to the frame through the crate and fastening OSB sheets directly to the frame without crates. Let's consider both.

How to fasten walls to a frame using a crate

When strong plates are attached to the frame from the inside of the wall, providing good rigidity of the wall structure, then a crate can be made from the outside between the frame and the OSB board. The crate forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Insulation is placed between the racks of the frame. On top of the racks and insulation, a wind- and waterproofing membrane is attached, which easily passes moisture. Next, the crate is attached and OSB boards are attached to it.

Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with a crate.

With this design, the plates can be left unfinished, you can paint them, plaster or fix almost any facade material.

When fixing OSB slabs without using lathing, the maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to fasten the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB plate, then mount the crate to create a ventilation gap and facade material, such as siding, boards or decorative panels, on it. OSB boards are fastened to a wooden frame with nails at least 2.5 times the thickness of the OSB sheet.

The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fastening OSB from the outside of the house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformations of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.

Installation of OSB on the walls of a frame house without a crate

Among the ways to provide rigidity to the frame, three methods are considered optimal, which can be combined with each other:

Fastening sheet materials to the racks of the frame inside the house;

Stabilizers between the racks of the frame;

Fastening sheet materials to frame racks outside the house.

When OSB sheets are mounted to the frame posts outside the house, the crate between the sheets and the frame posts leads to a decrease in rigidity by almost half. Therefore, to ensure maximum structural strength, this crate is excluded from it. Without a crate, the ventilation gap disappears, so it is recommended to mount such a crate over OSB sheets. A hydro-windproof vapor-permeable film is attached to the OSB, then a crate, and on top of any suitable facade material: siding, corrugated board, wood, facade panels etc.

The technology of fastening OSB sheets to a wooden frame without the use of crates.

The above option is preferred. But there are other ways too. When it is necessary that the OSB sheets attached to the racks act as a facade, and nothing is mounted on top of them, then the ventilation gap can be arranged between the racks of the frame. For this, the space between the racks of the frame is not completely filled with insulation. Leave 2-3 cm for the ventilation gap between the insulation and OSB sheets. The hydro-windproof vapor-permeable film is attached to the frame with the help of rails. So that these slats remain between the racks - on two sides to each rack.

A compromise option is the use of oblique crates. It is laid at an angle of 45 degrees. This contributes to increased rigidity compared to a straight crate. To increase rigidity, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are better suited as such crates. The board is attached to each rack of the frame with two nails. Due to the increased consumption of materials and the complexity of the work, this method is used extremely rarely, so there is no statistical information on the operational characteristics of the houses built.

Oblique crate.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out similarly to the variant with a wooden frame. When fixing the plates directly to the metal frame, use self-tapping screws for metal 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for mounting OSB boards to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening OSB sheets, there are general rules, the observance of which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the sheathing structure.

Self-tapping screws should be screwed at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the plate.
A gap of 10 mm is required between the bottom plate and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
The plates cannot be butted close to each other, a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them so that the plate can expand freely from moisture changes.
All door and window openings are cut with a jigsaw or a circular saw, but if you need perfectly even joints and cuts, you can use finished sizes and OSB sheets arrive at furniture shop, where for a small fee they will cut your sheets on a panel saw exactly and exactly in size.

Which side to mount OSB sheets

All sides of OSB sheets do not differ in composition. But there are differences in the surfaces. Often one side is smooth and the other rough. In this case, when mounting the plates on the walls from the outside of the building, it is better to fasten the sheets with the smooth side outward. With this orientation, rainwater will not accumulate in such quantities in the unevenness of the slab. Water accelerates the destruction of the plate. Protecting the sheets from water penetration into them helps to increase their durability.

When installing tiles on the roof under the roof, in turn, OSB sheets are recommended to be placed with the rough side up so that it is not slippery to walk on them during roofing work.

When installing OSB boards in places protected from moisture, the choice of their orientation does not have a significant impact on subsequent operation.

In most cases, when installing OSB sheets outside the house, a ventilation gap is provided. Air moves along it, which enters from the bottom of the wall from the surrounding space and exits from above back into the atmosphere. Blind sealing of ventilation gaps on either side is not allowed. Otherwise, instead of a venzazor, a closed air cavity is obtained.

Wasps, mice, small birds can penetrate into the ventilation gap and build nests there, thereby violating the characteristics of the wall. Therefore, it is recommended to provide protection at the stage of its construction or repair.

There are several options for protecting the wall from rodents, birds and insects, consider them.

Protection with metal meshes and sheet metal with small holes. It is better to use stainless metal that will not corrode. The mesh or strips of metal are attached to the bottom and top of the wall behind the OSB sheets so that they do not affect the appearance of the house.

Paint grid. It differs from the previous version in low price and less strength.

Perforated facade material at the bottom and top of the wall. For example, in the case of siding, these are perforated spotlights.

Lattices or grids are mounted at the inlet and outlet of the ventilation gaps.

How to saw OSB, plywood, chipboard, MDF without chips

Wood-based boards are used in the construction industry to create load-bearing elements buildings, and as various types of cladding. Similar materials are also used for the assembly of stairs, doors, cabinet furniture and other large items/structures. In any case, large-format sheets (plywood, OSB, MDF and chipboard) have to be cut and adjusted by the craftsman right on site. How to do this quickly and efficiently will be this article. Below we will consider the basic cutting techniques, focusing on practical nuances that will be equally relevant for all board materials produced by pressing wood fibers with the addition of glue.

Which tool to choose

Sheet materials made of wood always contain resins and glues, with which veneer, wood chips or sawdust are combined into a single whole. Because of this, the resulting slabs are dense and elastic, with a decent amount of viscosity. In many physical parameters, they are superior to solid softwood lumber, but at the same time they are a little more difficult to process. Meanwhile, any plywood, oriented strand board, MDF or chipboard - sawn, drilled, sanded, milled ...

How to prepare for cutting sheet materials

Hand saw, knife. With a certain perseverance and a small amount of work, you can even get by with an ordinary hand tool, but, as practice shows, with this approach, not only productivity suffers, but also the quality of cutting. It is difficult to make a straight cut with a hand saw. Due to the uneven feed rate of the tool and the slow uneven working stroke of the blade, chips appear on the planes, which are very difficult to get rid of. New cut edges, even for experienced users, rarely turn out perpendicular to the main surfaces of the sheet.

Important! If you have no other option, then a saw for cutting plywood, MDF, chipboard, OSB should be used with fine, well-sharpened teeth. It is desirable to lead it - as gently as possible.

The knife, of course, is not suitable for cutting OSB, plywood, chipboard and MDF boards, but it can cut fiberboard in several passes. It is also used for marking.

Electric jigsaw. With a jigsaw, you can cut sheet materials in a straight line, but this is too long, and the quality is not always satisfactory. The small speed of the working canvas and the reciprocating type of movement of the narrow equipment leaves its mark. Whatever file you use, there will always be pile and chips on one side of the plate, it is very difficult for them to maintain a straight line, especially when working along the fibers far from the edge of the sheet. But a jigsaw is an indispensable tool if it is necessary to make curved cuts in "home" conditions.

Important! For cutting OSB, Plywood, chipboard and similar materials with an electric jigsaw, you need to choose the right file. The options with the name “clean cut” are best suited here, in which the teeth look towards the tool and, when working, do not repel the jigsaw from the sheet, but rather press it. Many manufacturers produce special tooling for woodblock plywood, for example, Bosch.

Milling cutter manual electric. This tool has a very high spindle speed. His equipment can cut wood-based boards quite cleanly, and without darkening the wood fibers, like from a laser. But for this, it is necessary to carefully select the cutter for a specific type of material, as well as, if necessary, finely adjust the tooling speed and tool feed (usually it is selected within 5-20 mm per second). In most cases, the cut has to be done in 2-3 passes or more, depending on the thickness of the plate. Obviously, the scope of use of a manual milling cutter is limited to curvilinear cutting of small parts, the manufacture of various openings and holes, as well as non-through samples in the material.

Circular Saw. The so-called "circular" is the most convenient and most productive tool for cutting sheet materials. A straight cut after it turns out to be quite high-quality, the motor power, as a rule, is enough for sawing the thickest plates at a decent speed. What is especially attractive about a circular saw is the ability to get a truly straight edge at the exit, perpendicular to the front surfaces of the sheets. And if you change the slope of the site, then you can make an edge at 45 degrees.

Important! best results in sawing blockboards with a circular saw can be achieved if you use discs with large quantity teeth. For example, for fast cutting that is not too demanding on cleanliness, it is better to buy a wheel with 48 teeth with carbide tips. This option is good for ordinary material, and for laminated (plywood, MDF). And for especially important and precise work, a thin steel disc with no soldering is the best fit, which, although it dulls faster, it tears and lifts the fibers least of all.

Oriented strand board, MDF, plywood, chipboard - all these boards are quite large in size, so they are most often preferred to be cut on the floor, using the opportunity to literally go onto the workpiece from above.

With large volumes of work, it is better, of course, to collect for this wooden scaffolding, for example, from a bar or edged board of the second / first grade. The time spent will definitely pay off due to convenience, safety and quality - it has been tested more than once.

Whatever tool is chosen for cutting, the plate must be raised above the base. For this you should use wooden blocks 40-50 mm thick, which, if the working blade of the tool hits them, will not harm the cutting edges of the tooling. When working with a jigsaw or a hand saw, the bars are placed along the cut, and when using a circular saw, they are usually placed across (the disc cuts through the lining bar a little during the passage).

There are three main tasks of the wizard when pre-fixing a sheet.

Avoid unnecessary vibrations.
Completely exclude the possibility of tool jamming in the material as it is being cut.
Prevent the plate from breaking under its own weight when most of the cut has already been made.

The main problems are solved by a sufficient number and well-thought-out arrangement of retaining bars-linings.

Important! Perfect option when cutting large-format sheets, this is when it is possible to create “full support”, that is, all parts remain in place after cutting, and do not bend or break off.

There is an opinion that the sheet on the desktop should be laid with the front (which is more important for you) side down. Say, the equipment of a jigsaw or a circular saw at the exit from the material tears the fibers much more. However, it is impossible to visually control the back side of the plate during the cut, and since the tooling often leads a little to the side at the bottom, this decision can be called controversial.

It is necessary to protect the front surface from chips or raising the pile the right choice equipment and operating modes. It also helps to get a clean cut by sticking masking tape along the cut line (marking is done directly on top of the paper).

Important! All jigsaws and circulars are equipped with a metal support platform. Sometimes the platform is equipped with a protective polymer lining, and sometimes it does not have one. So that there are no scratches or black marks left on the surface of the sheet from the platform, it should also be pasted over masking tape. This is especially true when working with laminated materials that are not planned to be sanded later.

The marking of sheet materials such as plywood, OSB or chipboard is usually carried out with a construction pencil or a thin marker along a ruler, which can be a long rack level or a plaster rule. It is also convenient to mark long sheets for cutting with a paint chopping cord.

Important! Some craftsmen prefer to make markings by drawing a line with a sharp "shoe" knife. Due to the fact that the blade of the blade slightly cuts through the fibers of the upper layers (OSB chips, plywood veneer, MDF laminate), the likelihood of chipping is significantly reduced.

To get a clear straight line of cut, it makes sense to use a "guide". It can be a planed edged board, a bar, a piece of board material to be cut with a smooth factory edge, or an aluminum rule. The guide is fixed on the plate either with self-tapping screws or clamps. During cutting, the support platform of the jigsaw or circular saw is kept in constant contact with the guide. However, there are special metal guides for branded circulars.

1. Try to use the highest possible speed of rotation of the equipment. Reduce it if the saw moves with effort, or if the workpiece "burns". The higher the speed, the less chips there will be.
2. The forward feed rate of the tool - on the contrary, should be the smallest.
3. Always make a test cut on unnecessary pieces of material. See how visible the marking is when working, select the optimal speed of the tool and tool feed, evaluate the quality of cutting and the accuracy of the size of the finished part.
4. Guide the instrument smoothly and continuously. Stops usually leave traces, all the more you should not cut the sheet on both sides, as is done, to avoid chipping at the end. Make sure that you have access to all the markup, put the power cable of the saw / jigsaw comfortably.
5. Saw not along the line, but as if next to the marking line - so that part of it remains.
6. When marking and cutting, consider the thickness of the kerf that is formed after the passage of the teeth.
7. Using a circular saw, set the depth of cut depending on the thickness of the workpiece to be cut. Maximum overhang is not needed, the cleanest and most efficient sawing is obtained if the teeth extend beyond the sheet about half their length.
8. Be sure to check that the attachment (saw blade or jigsaw blade) has reached full speed before starting to cut. Otherwise, the so-called "backstroke" is possible.
9. After cutting, be sure to let the disc come to a complete stop - and only then remove the tooling from the sheet.

elka-palka.ru

What self-tapping screws to fix the OSB and how to calculate the costs

Which self-tapping screws to fix the OSB depends on the design features of the structure and the place of direct installation of chipboards.

The versatility of OSB is truly unmatched. It is used with equal success at any stages and cycles of construction.

In order to consider all possible options for fixing OSB boards, it will be convenient to divide their installation into several main groups:

roofing;
wall;
floor.

OSB fastening methods for roofing

The installation of OSB boards as one of the layers of the roofing pie requires increased attention to the strength characteristics of both the material itself and the fasteners used in the work.

Given the significant wind and snow loads on the roof plane, as well as the fact that roof structures are not a static, rigid structure, experts are advised to pay attention to the following points:

when laying OSB on the roof, priority should be given to special "ruff" or ring nails;
phosphated self-tapping screws used in the OSB installation are more fragile and have less strength when the structure moves;
the final choice of which self-tapping screws to fasten the OSB to the frame is up to the craftsmen and depends on the climatic conditions in the construction area;
the length of nails or self-tapping screws used in roofing is calculated by a simple formula: OSB sheet thickness + at least 40-45 mm for fastener entry into the frame;
that is, if OSB sizes of 9 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm are considered standard, then, therefore, the length of the self-tapping screw will be in the range of 50-75 mm;
the fastener map looks like this: along the rafters, the pitch of the screws is 300 mm, along the joints of the plates - 150 mm, along the cornice or ridge cut - 100 mm and the indent from the edge of the sheet - at least 10 mm.

Conclusion! When installing OSB on a roof, special nails should be preferred due to their greater shear strength!

Vertical or wall mounting OSB

The choice of the form of self-tapping screws for vertical mounting is due to the need to hide the head flush with the wall plane. That is why self-tapping screws with a pan head are used on the facades and external planes of buildings, which, when twisted, not only sits in the sweat, but also does not split the wood, while maintaining the appearance of the wall.

Self-tapping screws for wall mounting can be replaced with nails with a spiral or ring thread. Their length is determined by multiplying the OSB thickness by a factor of 2.5. In our case, this is: 2.5 * 12 mm = 30 mm. This is the minimum allowed length.

Installation of OSB sheets in a horizontal plane: floor / ceiling

It is not worth dwelling in detail on the choice of self-tapping screws for installing OSB on the ceiling. The scheme, number and size of self-tapping screws used for these purposes repeats the above examples exactly.

The choice of self-tapping screws and the pattern of fasteners for OSB flooring are determined by the base on which the material is laid.

If it is a beam or rack frame, then phosphated self-tapping screws with a body length of at least 50 mm and a countersunk head are the ideal choice.

In the case of laying OSB on a rough, solid floor, galvanized double-threaded self-tapping screws are suitable. The procedure for determining the optimal length is indicated above.

Now you know what self-tapping screws to fix OSB for high-quality and durable use of plates in combination with other building and finishing materials.

Advice! When buying, do not chase low prices and check the quality of the screws. Enough marriages. And there are no trifles at the construction site!

baoyuan-osb.ru

Text and video: Nikita Sidorov

Lately I've been noticing that more and more more houses sheathed with OSB boards (OSB - oriented strand board). And there are several good reasons for this. After all, OSB boards are affordable and reliable material with a completely homogeneous internal structure.

What makes OSB boards the best material for exterior cladding of frame structures? The first is dimensional stability. That is, all OSB boards have exactly the same dimensions after they leave the sawmill. In addition, OSB boards have an absolutely homogeneous composition. This means that there are no voids and air bubbles in them. OSB is also an environmentally friendly material that is suitable for both outdoor and any indoor work. OSB is made from fast growing trees and the production is virtually waste-free.

But the best thing is that OSB is a cost-effective purchase, because this material is much cheaper than comparable in quality and physical characteristics plywood.

When you install OSB boards, keep two things in mind: the gaps between the boards and the fastener map.

All wooden building materials change their dimensions, because wood reacts to changes in humidity and air temperature. This is absolutely natural and applies to all wooden materials, including OSB. Therefore, in order for the OSB boards not to lead, a gap of 3 mm must be left from each edge.

Now let's talk about the fastener map. This phrase is just beautiful way tell you how to hammer nails. Note that I didn't say "nails" by accident. To fasten OSB boards during exterior cladding, you need to use nails, not self-tapping screws. This is due precisely to the fact that nails are better tolerated by the "walking" of OSB.

In general, self-tapping screws can also be used for interior decoration. I just do not recommend using self-tapping screws for drywall, because. they are considered to be unreliable.

So, OSB needs to be nailed along the edge every 15 cm. And after 30 cm into the intermediate racks of the frame (which turned out to be not on the edge, but inside the sheet).

This number of nails may seem excessive to some, but do not forget that when we fix the OSB, our goal is not only that the OSB does not fall off under its own weight, we also need to stiffen the entire structure so that the house can withstand even a hurricane, even an earthquake.

Nails should be at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB. Also, you can not nail them closer than 1 cm from the edge of the plate.

An interesting fact: in a vertical position, an OSB slab can withstand more loads than in a horizontal one. This is due to a certain direction of the fibers of the material from which the OSB boards are made.

When nailing the OSB to the frame, always work from one corner further along the perimeter of the slab. In no case should you first nail the slab in the corners, and then hammer in the rest of the nails.

And the last tip for today. When OSB boards are brought to your site, they will need to be protected from moisture. To do this, put pieces of wood under the plates, and a film on top, but only in such a way as not to interfere with the free circulation of air.

This will not only keep the OSB dry, but it will also stabilize the wood and adapt it to the humidity in your building site.

Materials on the topic: "Is moisture dangerous for OSB plywood (OSB)?"

lsmd.ru

Recently, oriented strand boards have gained popularity in construction. In Russian standards, this material is abbreviated as OSB, sometimes they are designated English letters OSB (oriented strand boards) or Russian OSB. We have already reviewed the main characteristics, brands and applications of these products in the article OSB Boards: Classification and Application. In this article, we will talk about how to work with oriented particle boards.

First of all, when working with OSB, it is important to understand the principle of manufacturing this material. Structurally, the slab consists of chips (chips) that are oriented in a certain direction. All scraps have their own clear direction, the chips in each subsequent layer are located perpendicular to the next and previous ones. This is the key to the strength of OSB. Accordingly, depending on the direction, each oriented plate has a longitudinal and transverse axes. The longitudinal (main) axis has the highest bending strength, while the transverse (secondary) axis can have two times lower values. For this reason, installation should be carried out in such a way that the main load falls precisely on the main axle.

The internal structure of the material

In addition to strength characteristics and brand, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the chip material itself. According to GOST, wood chips have certain permissible parameters, their length cannot be less than 5 cm, and their thickness - 2 mm. If there are no large chips in the plate, and to a greater extent there is dust or sawdust, then the real structural properties of the material are reduced.

Before using OSB boards, it is necessary that they undergo acclimatization in the environment where they will be used in the future. This is due to the fact that wood material tends to change its volume depending on humidity and temperature. Structural changes in OSB are greater than in plywood - depending on the brand, the material can swell from water by 15 - 25%.

Oriented strand board is divided into four grades. OSB-1 is a general-purpose material, designed for humidity not exceeding 65%, OSB-2 is used at a similar humidity level, but can withstand bearing loads, OSB-3 and OSB-4 are used in an environment with a humidity level of not more than 85%.

Acclimatization takes place over two days. The plates are installed in a vertical position, slats are placed between the sheets to improve air circulation. According to GOST, it is recommended that the absolute humidity of products range from 2 to 12%. At the same time, in an unheated room, the moisture content of the material can fluctuate at the level of 16 - 18%.

Particle boards must be protected from water even if OSP-3 and OSP-4 grades are used. Liquid contact will cause deformation and swelling of the material. After installation, the slabs must be protected from moisture with facing materials (lining, siding, etc.). It is not recommended to treat the chipped surface with products with a high water content. When using material for external walls, it is covered protective film so that the plates are not saturated with moisture from the ground, the sheets are laid on wooden linings. Also, with the help of wooden slats, it is necessary to create an air space between the film and OSB, again this is done for air circulation.

The ends are the most vulnerable places of the OSB, in the process of acclimatization when the environment changes from dry to wet, they can swell, in which case they must be sanded before installation.

OSB is cut into sheets before installation. different size. This can be done using a hand or electric tool. When working, it is important to exclude vibrations of the plate, so it is securely fixed with clamps. For sawing along a straight line, guides made of straight boards are used. When sawing, it is important to use a corner so that the cut always goes perpendicular to the border of the sheet.

When marking, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the cut, for all tools it has its own. Before starting work, it is recommended to carry out a rough cutting of an unnecessary piece of material. Sawing oriented strand material should be done at a moderate speed, the forward movement should be done smoothly. Marking is done using a ruler and a construction marker. Due to the large dimensions of the sheets, they are installed on a wooden stand; the option of cutting in a vertical position is also allowed. Consider the main tools that can be used for cutting.

Hand saw - for sawing OSB, a tool with a fine tooth is used. For serious building work hand saw poorly suited, since the cutting speed rests on the physical efforts of a person. You should not completely abandon a hand saw either, it can play an auxiliary role when cutting small elements. For cutting OSB, a hacksaw with a fine tooth is best suited.

Circular (circular) saw - the tool can be hand-held or desktop. When working with the latter, the user himself pushes the plate onto a rotating disk. For sawing OSB, discs with a large number of teeth and hard alloy soldering are suitable. Some circular saws have a nozzle for connecting a vacuum cleaner, which collects sawdust remaining from work.

The electric jigsaw is an easy-to-use tool for sawing various materials. The cut is carried out using the movement of the hacksaw blade. Some devices have a pendulum cut function, when the blade goes not only up and down, but also in the direction of the cut. Working with the device is simplified with a keyless blade change. Adjusting the angle of the sole helps to make difficult cuts in an inclined plane. For cutting large slabs, a jigsaw is less effective than a circular saw. The main inconvenience is the difficulty of an even cut.

Some manufacturers produce blades specifically for cutting wood boards.

Oriented strand board can be used in various construction areas. Fasteners vary depending on the application. Commonly used nails, screws, screws and staples.

Nails - fastener in the form of a rod, most often used for attaching OSB to an external frame (during construction frame house) and on the crate for the roof. In this regard, nails have a serious advantage over self-tapping screws, as they keep the plates from moving. The self-tapping screw will simply break off under the weight of the vertical plate, and the nail may bend, but will continue to hold the wall of the house. Screw nails show themselves best for working with flexible materials. Ruff and ring nails are also used, they are more common for roofing. It must be remembered that it will be difficult to pull out such nails. In finishing work, hardware with a small hat is used.

For fastening it is necessary to use galvanized fasteners so that it does not corrode.

Screw connections - these include wood screws and self-tapping screws. Fasteners are easily twisted and easily unscrewed without harming the material. Screw connections are used when fastening OSB to concrete using dowels (laying a subfloor on a concrete screed). Screws and self-tapping screws provide better tear-off fixation, therefore they are more often used on horizontal connections.
Staples - H-shaped fasteners are used to connect the edges of the particle board on the roof. Pneumatic or electric construction staplers are used to fasten surfaces.
Gluing is not used as the main method of fixation, more often the application of adhesives is used as an additional fastening when laying plates on logs. Usually any wood adhesives are used, they are selected depending on the method of fastening and the humidity in the room.

Installation of OSB differs depending on the type of work. General recommendations include the presence of an expansion joint and protection against contact with water.

Compensation (deformation) seam - this element is called differently, in fact it is a regular seam. As we know from the characteristics of the material, OSB boards tend to swell, change their shape and volume depending on temperature conditions. During installation without an expansion joint, over time, waves and bumps appear on the surface of the plates. The seam between the plates should be 3 cm, next to the walls - 12 - 15 cm, to the foundation when mounting the wall - 10 cm. If the length of the mounted plane exceeds 12 m, then make a gap of 25 cm.

When installing grooved boards, the expansion joint is formed by itself due to the tongue-and-groove design.

Example of creating expansion joints when installing a floor

Now consider the features of installation on specific examples.

Subfloor installation - oriented strand boards are laid for subsequent placement of laminate or parquet on them. Installation is carried out on logs or on a concrete screed. The thickness of the sheet when mounted on a concrete screed is 8-10 mm; for the log, a plate up to 22 mm is required, depending on the distance between the supports. Fasteners are carried out on nails or on dowels with self-tapping screws, sometimes glue is used as an additional means of fixation.
Floor on a strip foundation - in this case, installation is also carried out on logs from a bar, but at the same time, the OSB side facing the ground is treated with bituminous mastic. It is allowed to lay two layers of slabs, in this case they are laid "in a row" so that the seams are not on top of each other.

Features of the installation of a rough floor covering made of chip materials depend on the subsequent finishing. For example, a tile will require a solid base, so it is better to use groove-comb structures; when using roll material (carpet), the gaps must be sealed with adhesive-sealant.

Ceiling installation - schemes are used in the ceiling, as well as when fixing the floor on logs, only beams are used for the ceiling. To ensure structural rigidity, the main axis must be perpendicular to the beams. The ceiling is covered with a waterproofing film to protect it from water, special holes are made to drain the liquid. Fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws, screws or nails.

Ceiling installation with OSB

The walls are mounted on the racks of the frame house. The task of the particle board is not to veneer the structure, but to give the structure rigidity and create the power circuit of the house. Fastening is carried out on three racks of the frame using screw nails, which are driven in around the perimeter every 15 cm, in the central part of the sheet - after 30 cm. With a distance between racks of 50 cm, 12 mm thick plates are used. In this case, the nail should be 2.5 times the thickness of the sheet itself and driven in at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. So that water from the house does not condense on the insulation and on the stove, the material is protected from the inside with a vapor barrier.
From the outside, the OSB is closed with a windproof film, it does not allow moisture from precipitation to enter the material, while allowing the wall of the house to “breathe”, organizing air exchange inside the wall. Steam leaves the room freely, but moisture remains on the outside.

Multi-layer wall of a frame house - "framework pie"

Such a structure is called the "pie" of the frame house. The main purpose of a multilayer wall is to protect OSB from condensation. Improper design leads to the development of mold and damage to the entire structure.

Roof installation - oriented slabs are the basis for the subsequent fastening of the roof, the sheets are installed on the truss system. The thickness of the sheet is selected depending on the pitch rafter leg. At 60 cm, it is optimal to use slabs with a thickness of 12 mm, at 80 cm - 15 - 18 mm, for a larger rafter pitch, OSB 22 mm is used. Fastening is made on screw nails, since shear fastening is important on a pitched roof. The longitudinal axis of the plates is perpendicular to the truss system. Between themselves, the layers of material are connected in two ways: tongues or staples. In the presence of a grooved connection, you can not make a compensation gap, otherwise the gap should be 3 mm, and fastening is done with H-shaped brackets.

When installing the roof, the slabs are laid with the rough side outward to facilitate the movement of builders.

After installation, the oriented strand board needs a final finish. The material is suitable for wallpapering, puttying and painting. But for this, the surface must be prepared.

Seal of seams - technological seams do not need to be sealed. In most cases, they are covered with laminate, tile or any other external covering. Sometimes sealing seams is even harmful. When using dry mixes during shrinkage, the plate may be deformed. For some types of work, it is still necessary to process the seams, for example, when painting, a 3 cm gap will spoil the appearance of the room, so the gaps are closed with a docking mesh, which is attached to the putty.

Grinding - unpolished OSB has a not quite even texture. For coverage paints and varnishes it is better to use ground material or process the product yourself with a belt or eccentric sander. This procedure is especially relevant before processing the flooring, as it allows you to get rid of irregularities.

The plate of factory grinding in its marking has the letter Ш, unpolished products are indicated by the letter combination НШ.

Priming is the simplest and most versatile way to prepare a surface for finishing. The primer is used before painting, before laying tiles, before using varnish, etc. For oriented strand board, primer mixtures provide protection against moisture and increase adhesion (adhesion to other materials). Antiseptic mixtures can also be used to prevent the development of pathogenic microflora; for the subsequent use of alkyd paints, an alkyd primer is applied. Acrylic primer is used for puttying.

Reinforcement - the imposition of a reinforcing mesh for subsequent plastering, laying tiles or tiles.

OSB is a multifunctional material that can be used in various fields, the features of installation and processing depend on this, but there are also general principles chipboard work. Care must be taken to minimize contact with water. When installing walls, it is important to observe the correct design of the walls in order to avoid the formation of condensate. When laying slabs, one should not forget about the need for expansion joints.

OSB (OSB): features for working with plates and installation recommendations

www.sdvor.com

Why OSB flooring is good: 5 styling tools

The floor of OSB boards can be found quite often. In order to lay OSB on a wooden floor or walls, complex highly professional installation is not required, but care must be taken, as it is important not to miss a single moment in laying technology.

How to cover the OSB floor on logs and on concrete

Making OSB flooring is not difficult, and you can use the simplest panel. To make the floor device more durable, it is worth choosing canvases with grooves. The joints should be located directly on the logs, but if they are too large, then it is better to install an additional fastener. To put the OSB panels and make the floor on the logs, you will first need to prepare the necessary inventory.

Namely:

Jigsaw;
Drill;
Roulette;
self-tapping screws;
Building level.

Between the bars there should be a distance of no more than 40 cm, and in this case, laying sheets with a thickness of 1.5 cm is acceptable. If the distance is greater, then the panels should be thicker. The distance between the boards is made the same, and it is also important to lay the plates correctly so that there is a small gap. The gaps will subsequently be filled with the most common mounting foam.

Making OSB flooring with your own hands is quite simple

If you need additional thermal insulation, then you can use foam or the most common mineral wool.

It is quite possible to lay OSB sheets on concrete screed, and for this it is worth following the sequence of actions. The foundation is being prepared. The floor must be carefully vacuumed so that dust does not cause poor adhesion between the canvas and the floor. Be sure to prime the surface of the concrete. As a solution, you can use any primer, even though deep penetration, even the usual one. Next, you need to cut the sheet, this can be done with your own hands. Be sure to take into account such a moment as leaving a technical gap near the walls, which should be equal to 5 mm. This is required in order to prevent swelling of the sheets with an increase in their size, which occurs when exposed to moisture. Direct installation is carried out using rubber-based adhesive and a driven dowel. Before laying the sheets on the concrete floor, you need to lay the insulation, and also make sure that the sheets are even and suitable for construction. Laying on the subfloor is not difficult, and it is possible to do everything yourself.

Benefits of floor panels

A building material such as OSB-plate has a lot of advantages, due to which many people prefer to lay it on the floor. The material has such a high density that rodents cannot gnaw through the canvas and damage its integrity. This finish is moisture resistant.

Accordingly, you can choose panels for:

baths;
Bathroom;
And the like wet rooms.

The canvas has excellent pressing, and therefore even small scraps do not crumble. The product has excellent resistance to biological factors. The canvas is completely environmentally friendly, since natural wood shavings are used for the manufacture.

OSB-plate has a lot of advantages

It is not at all difficult to carry out installation even to concrete, even to another base, and professional training is not required.

The cost of the material is not too high, and one element has quite impressive dimensions, which means it can close large area. OSB has an excellent level of reliability, which allows you to carry out not only finishing, but also construction with the highest quality. Due to good wear resistance, you can use the canvas for a long time and not worry about the formation of defects, since the material does not dry out. OSB is difficult to bend, easy to saw and replace with a new one.

Thickness and composition of OSB

The characteristic of the material means a lot, but when choosing OSB sheets, you also need to pay attention to such a criterion as the parameters and the manufacturer. When creating a final floor, or perhaps it will be a substrate for a laminate on a balcony, you must always follow the recommendations from the finishing experts and then it will fully meet your expectations.

Masters with extensive experience with such canvases prefer to use panels of European and Canadian production.

When choosing OSB boards, consider them specifications and manufacturer

The choice of thickness is carried out according to:

On which coating the panel will be laid;
budget;
operational properties.

As for the dimensions, there is only one standard, and it is 2.44x1.22 m. The thickness does not affect the dimensions, but yes, the quality of the finish. If you need to attach small pieces of OSB, then it is possible to cut the canvas at home, which will not cause much difficulty and problems.

Do-it-yourself budget OSB furniture

OSB boards are great as a kitchen decor, for example, for lining an apron or even creating original shelves. An openwork cabinet or a bookshelf in the office will look very unusual.

The use of OSB panels is very diverse, since the board can be installed as a partition between rooms, and also used:

For the arrangement of the roof in a private house;
For finishing the stairs to the second floor;
as a cladding;
Like a canvas to cover a warm floor;
For making furniture with your own hands.

With the help of OSB-plates, you can make furniture with your own hands

Due to the fact that the plates are solid and will not warp, massive cabinets are made from them. Among the additional advantages, it is worth noting the presence of a decorative structure. Furniture is made simply, but it looks very unusual, and sometimes it does not even require additional finishing.

If you stick original pictures on OSB furniture, creating a Provence style, you can achieve an excellent result and create it yourself original interior.

There are many options, but it all depends on preferences and opportunities. If desired, you can construct a whole children's town inside the house, but first you need to familiarize yourself with which screws will be used to mount it.

Proper installation of OSB on a wooden floor

Over time, any coating loses its aesthetics, and therefore, in order to close the old wooden floor, you need to lay OSB boards, and it is better if the board is moisture resistant. There are still such rooms in which the floor is not linoleum, but a wooden floor.

Many were in a hurry to put such a coating, since it:

Durable;
wear-resistant;
Durable.

Before laying OSB-plates, it is necessary to prepare the subfloor

The principle of laying the floor in this way is not complicated. The foundation is being prepared. You need to make sure that there are no protruding nails. If during the period of operation the boards were not just deformed, but became uneven, then before the fastening is carried out, it is necessary to align. For this, a planer is used.

When laying out the cut sheets of OSB, one must not forget about the seams for shifting the canvases.

The fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, the length of which is 4 cm. The fasteners are installed at a distance of 30 cm from each other. The hats must be recessed into the coating. After completing the work, you need to grind the joints of the canvas.

How to install OSB on walls

OSB panels should not be confused with material such as plywood, the front side of which is unlikely to surprise anyone. It is worth noting that you also need to correctly pronounce the name of this canvas.

Some misinterpret RSD as:

WHISBY;
YUIZBI;
WESBY;

This is required so that the OSB panel is chosen to cover the floor or walls, since an incredible amount of building and finishing materials goes on sale, and it is not difficult to confuse them by name. The OSB laminated panel is laid on a self-leveling floor or concrete floor using compounds such as mastic or glue.

To fix the OSB-plate on the wall, you need a crate that is installed to the frame of the building

To glue the canvases together, that is, concrete and the board, you need a lot of composition, but how much is needed is calculated depending on the situation, since more solution is transferred to the porous coating.

To fix the product on the wall, you need a crate that is installed to the frame of the building. The installation of the plates itself is carried out with two-inch spiral nails 51 mm or annular nails 4.5-7.5 cm long. Drive-in is carried out every 30 cm into the supports at intervals. Where the plates are connected, nails must be driven in every 15 cm. In addition, care must be taken to leave expansion gaps so that the installation is as correct as possible. A space of 1 cm should be left between the edge of the slab located at the top and the crown-type beam. 1 cm should also be left between the edge of the slab located at the bottom and the foundation. There should be a distance of 0.3 cm between the canvases that do not have grooves.

In some cases, the decoration of walls sheathed with OSB panels is not carried out in the future, since rooms with such a finish look very unusual. The most common way to decorate a canvas can be called puttying, as it is not only a finish, but also an additional sealing of cracks and joints. High-quality puttying allows you to get a perfectly beautiful room. If necessary, putty can be painted, covered with wallpaper or any other finishing materials.

Do-it-yourself OSB floors (video)

In order for repair work or the construction of furniture from OSB panels to be carried out competently and fully meet expectations, as well as the costs of effort, money and time, it is necessary to carry out all processes according to a previously made project and only from high-quality material.

Photo gallery (7 photos)

criminalnaya.ru

Smallpox than to cut - Teremok

I have. probably the leftism is not imovpnaya - a gift.

It mows incredibly, in order to cut off “in a straight line” you have to change the angle

25-30. Or the canvas is “left” (given in the kit). And how can

in these jigsaws.

PS. The installation of the guide did not lead to the desired evenness of the cut either -

Check the parallelism of the installation of the file, I had such a glitch at first,

it turned out that it was necessary to put the file with the roller released, otherwise when installing it

not it presses and warps.

Maybe you have a shitty mount (crooked clamps), poddochit fake.

P.S. for a tree, the most common.)

here I hear - Dmitriy Ksenchak says All (well, I butted in, of course):

I prefer, like tectolite-getinax on boards - to scratch with a scriber and

OV> A jigsaw and bad. With a knife. Cut a little and break

DVP and forward. unlike a knife, it does not wag to the sides

OV>> And a fret saw and it is bad. With a knife. Cut a little and break

AD> then not with a knife, but with a carved tooth on an old hacksaw blade,

AD> scratched fiberboard and forward. unlike a knife, it does not wag to the sides

This "claw" is best carved from a knife for cutting butter! Which is old, Soviet,

with metal handle.

Already about 20 radio amateurs in my area have done this.

Do not forget to just remove the cutting edge from the workpiece. And if you also bury it

Goodbye Vyacheslav.

VL> NO! Don't do this with canvases! Trash. Enough for 5 meters of cut.

either in the trash, or for regrinding. And yes, I have an electric jigsaw.

VL> old, Soviet, with a metal handle.

VL> forget to just remove the cutting edge from the workpiece. And if it is also

VL> zavoponit when hardening.

I'll try to sharpen something else 🙂

Take as a material a piece of hacksaw blade for metal (only take

"Old Soviet" - black and fragile) and did not try to harden after manufacturing?

VL>> NO! Don't do it from canvases! Trash. Enough for 5 meters of cut.

OS> "old Soviet" - black and brittle) and harden after manufacturing

called Russian) good scratches are obtained, even without additional hardening, as

then he made a scraper (only for wood - I don’t know what the carpenter’s name is) varnish

scraped off with a bang. But the gray canvases are hardened only along the edge for this

How to cut plywood, despite the fact that its sheets have a minimum size of 12.2x12.2 cm. Indeed, during construction and repair work, fragments of smaller parameters and various shapes are needed, sometimes even curvilinear. cutting this material cannot be avoided as it has become a necessity for most cases.

Who does not know how to cut plywood at home, you should look at the information below. Allocate the main tools for cutting plywood:

band or circular saw;

Plywood is considered enough dense material, so you have to apply physical force while cutting it with a hacksaw by hand. The device is usually used to divide sheets into equal fragments. The teeth should be small to avoid damaging the structure of the material.

From a plywood sheet, elements of various shapes are also created with band or circular saws. Due to the high speed of rotation of the cutting wheels, it is difficult to get a neatly perfect cut. Therefore, in the work it is advised to use cutting wheels, which are equipped with small teeth, are intended for work processes exclusively with wood.

Any plywood can be easily sawn with a jigsaw with a fine saw blade. To do this, you just need to press the tool against the tile and guide it with care, without jerking. Upon completion of the cutting process, the edges of the sheets are advised to be processed with sandpaper.

The better to cut plywood and in what quantity. A hand jigsaw is considered an ideal tool if you need to make a small number of complex elements. With some skill, it can allow you to get neat cuts. Manual way cutting cannot be called productive, especially since it is very tiring.

When creating rectilinear forms of cuts, a circular saw with fine-toothed cutting wheels is used. Cutting wheels for chipboard can quickly cope with the task of cutting plywood sheets. In this case, the saw is driven with a small amount of pressure at a slow speed.

If there are no jigsaws and power tools among the available tools, it is worth trying to cut the material with a conventional saw manually. The tool should be with small teeth and good sharpening. During the cutting process, the blade is led at an acute angle to the surface of the plywood sheet. Movements should be smooth with great pressure, and without jerks. neat work should be especially at the end of cutting, because the slightest wrong movement can lead to the formation of a large chip, thus rejecting an already finished element.

Attention! The saw makes a rough cut, so after this process the end of the sheets must be processed with sandpaper.

How to cut plywood with a laser and what parameters of the material can be cut with this tool. Plywood can be cut in this way up to a thickness of 8-10 mm. This process may depend on the types of wood, type of glue and processing option. It is better to cut resin-free sheets of softwood plywood. Birch plywood is not recommended for cutting, and material with formaldehyde resin is even harder to cut. Top part the cut is always dark. The mode and level of cutting quality for all grades of plywood is determined by experiment.

The laser cutting process will make it possible to produce parts without mechanical influence on the sheets. Thanks to this, chips and pile will not appear at the edges. The laser beam has such a small diameter that it will allow cutting out elements with parameters of several millimeters and complex geometric shapes.

The maximum material thickness that a laser can cut depends on the power level of the laser emitters and is often limited to 15-20 mm.

Important! The cut upon completion of work with the laser is able to change color due to the burning of the material. However, this can be both a positive and a negative result of the work, depending on the desired result and the intended purpose of the parts received.

The principle of operation needs a level of training. After all, wood is a fairly flammable material, so it must be constantly cooled. To do this, the tool blows on the cutting part, which is manually adjusted. This way you can achieve maximum cleanliness of processing without the formation of carbon deposits. At the same time, technical elements are processed, which can last longer.

Laser - best option for those interested, how to figuratively cut plywood.

How to cut plywood without chips will become clear after reading the basic recommendations for the workflow:

Cutting plywood sheets is carried out on the flooring with absolute support;

It is necessary to adjust the depth of cut, which can affect the level of cut quality;

In the longitudinal direction of the cut, a long straight object is used as a guiding tool;

Before making a cut, you should check the guide;

It is recommended to cut at high speed, which should not be changed;

When cutting with a circular saw, the discs must be selected with the largest number of teeth;

A transverse incision is advised to be made with adhesive tape.

How to cut plywood 10mm thick with a manual router, the following recommendations will suggest:

The cutter is fixed in the collet.
The number of engine revolutions suitable for this working process is set.
The required milling depth is set using the immersion limiter when working with plunge cutters or a specific value of the cutter overhangs relative to the sole is fixed - when working with edge cutters).
A guide bearing or edge cutter ring or other equipment is installed to help ensure the required path of the cutter.

Work with a manual router

The following basic safety measures are noted when using a router when cutting plywood sheets:

The cutter must be fastened and adjusted with the power cord unplugged from the socket.
Operating a handheld router requires care and concentration. During milling, you need to clearly stand on your feet and firmly hold the router with your hands. It is not allowed to work in a state of fatigue or distraction to avoid injury.
The processing element must be firmly fixed, otherwise it can break off the cutter from its place and rush with great force and speed.
It is necessary to be wary of possible impacts when the tool touches the material. To avoid impact, you need to firmly hold the router, firmly pressing it to the base and move it with smooth movements. Clothing should be chosen for work without loose parts that can grab the tool.
It is better to avoid inhaling the fine dust that occurs during the milling process. It is sucked off with a vacuum cleaner. You can use a respirator.

Thus, it turned out how plywood can be cut and the main recommendations with the principles of work when cutting.

In the production of various finishing works or the manufacture of furniture, the use of plywood is a common practice. At the same time, home craftsmen are faced with a choice: how to cut plywood and how to achieve a perfect cut without chips. During the cutting of such material, some difficulties arise: the sheet is large in size, and the structure of its base creates difficulties when sawing. Knowing some features, you can achieve excellent results when working with an electric jigsaw, hand or circular saw. The main condition is to ensure reliable fixation of plywood.

Sawing goals and suitable tools

Depending on the purpose of sawing, what can be used to cut plywood most efficiently is selected. Among the tools used for work, the following can be distinguished:

electric circular saw;
hand saw;
electric jigsaw.

Consider the features of use various tools for cutting plywood and in what cases it is more expedient to use one or another device.

When cutting plywood with a hand saw, you have to exert physical effort due to the significant density of the material. This tool is used when it is necessary to cut a sheet of plywood into identical fragments.

Hand jigsaw is considered the best tool and allows you to decide in advance how to cut plywood without chips, saving yourself from the need to purchase electrical tools. With it, you can make a small number of elements of complex shape. Having certain skills in working with a jigsaw, you can make a neat cut, however, due to high labor costs and low productivity, this method cannot be called optimal.

If there are no electrical tools at hand or simple jigsaw, then you should resort to using a simple hand saw. In order to make it convenient to cut the sheet and avoid the formation of chips, the tool blade must have a large number of small and well-sharpened teeth. The angle of inclination of the saw to the plywood sheet must be sharp. It is recommended to avoid jerks and make uniform movements with strong pressure.

Tip: The cut of a conventional saw is rough, so it is recommended to process the end parts with emery after sawing.

Plywood sheets can be cut into various shapes using a circular or circular saw, but the main purpose of these tools is to create rectangular cuts. When cutting material, it is very difficult to get a clean cut, because the speed of rotation of the discs is very high. In this regard, preference should be given to those cutting wheels that have fine teeth and are used to work with wood. When processing plywood, it is good to use cutting wheels designed for sawing chipboard.

Tip: when cutting a plywood sheet, make sure that the pressure on the sheet is negligible, and the disk rotation speed is low.

When making furniture or repairing it, you often have to choose how to saw laminated plywood. To get a clean cut, it is necessary to select discs or blades that have frequent and fine teeth. Great importance has the angle of their sharpening, as well as the shape. It is advisable to select discs with a positive sharpening angle and different tooth shapes (there is an alternation of trapezoidal and straight teeth). If the disk has negative angles sharpening, it is necessary to reduce the speed, otherwise the wood will burn.

Important: the larger the disc diameter, the wider the cut will be and, accordingly, the number of chips will increase. It is completely impossible to avoid the formation of chips, but it is realistic to reduce their number and size to such an extent that subsequent processing can completely eliminate all roughness.

A relationship has been established between the size of the chip and the teeth of the saw: small ones leave less damage than large ones. The amount of tooth set has an impact on the cleanliness of cutting plywood. The best result is achieved with minimal wiring. You can check this parameter using a regular ruler. Sawing thick sheet using a disc with a minimum set of teeth should not be done, since it will burn from increased friction and the disc will be pinched.

Electric jigsaw

An electric jigsaw is best for cutting any plywood. While working with this tool, you should use small files, cut the canvas, pressing the jigsaw and avoid jerky movements. At the end of the process, the ends of the material are processed with sandpaper.

Tip: when choosing saws for an electric jigsaw, you should give preference to those models that have a "clean cut" marking. Most manufacturers of cutting tools have saws for this purpose in their assortment, for example, BOSCH has this product line called CleanWood. A distinctive feature of the teeth is the correct triangular shape and the ability to cut in opposite directions.

You should not purchase low-quality tools, because after a cut of 5 meters in length, there is a strong blunting of the cutting edge, which causes the appearance of chips. The absence of wiring and the opposite sharpening of the teeth located in the neighborhood and the small width make it possible to make a complex figured cut. But these qualities of saw blades for fine cutting cause the fragility of the blades.

Fine cutting of plywood can be done using metal blades. The size of the teeth of such saws is minimal, which greatly slows down the sawing speed, but allows you to achieve top quality. Since the width of the saw blades for metal is large, it is possible to carry out a figured cut only with a large bending radius (0.6-0.8 m).

Features of cutting tools

Each plywood cutting tool has its own characteristics when used. Consider the rules for working with plywood with various cutting tools.

Sawing with a circular saw

To effectively cut a sheet with a circular saw, you should follow these rules:

Place the plywood sheet on a stable support and make the first cut closer to the middle of the sheet.
Adjust the cut depth. To do this, lower the disc and start cutting, while the immersion depth of the disc should be 0.5 cm greater than the thickness of the blade.
Position yourself to the side of the line of sight of the saw to avoid injury due to the high possibility of kickback.
Prepare the saw to make the necessary cut. To do this, attach the saw shoe (its part in front) to the blade and install the blade on the cutting line, having previously unbent the casing.
Make sure there are no obstructions at the bottom of the sheet.
Turn on the saw and slowly plunge its blade into the material. Hold the saw firmly to prevent kickback. After dipping into the slot of the disk and installing its shoe on the surface of the sheet, it should be returned back protective cover.
Draw the tool along the line to the end of the canvas.
Turn off the saw and only after it has completely stopped, remove it from the slot.

Cutting with an electric jigsaw

To obtain an even cut, the sequence of actions should be as follows:

Fix the material securely.
If possible, cut perpendicular to the grain of the wood, otherwise it will be very difficult to get a smooth edge.
In no case should you put pressure on the tool, the cutting speed will not increase from this, but the tool is guaranteed to break.
The surface of the teeth should be lubricated with oil to facilitate the work (on condition of working with wood of increased strength).
It is not recommended to use the tool long time due to overheating and damage to the engine.
After use, you need to clean the jigsaw and lubricate it.

Working with a hand saw involves a lot more labor compared to a circular saw. To properly cut a sheet of plywood, you need to consider the following rules:

Make a vertical notch along the cut line. To do this, place the saw blade and stretch the blade to form a groove.
Tilt the saw blade until an acute angle is formed with the plane of the sheet (from 30 to 40 0) and begin to make smooth movements.
To maintain evenness of the cut, the forearm and shoulder should be located in the same plane. When deviating from a given direction, it is required to slightly bend the saw in the desired direction and continue working.
In order to avoid the formation of a fracture, it is necessary to hold the part to be sawn off with an unoccupied hand.
At the end of the cut, it is required to give the canvas a vertical position again and finish the work by making several movements perpendicular to the plywood sheet.

This is interesting: the hard coating of laminated plywood gives a heterogeneity to the material, which causes chipping during processing. Another reason for the appearance of such defects is determined by the speed of the cutting edge, the shape of its teeth and the forces applied. Often the jigsaw blade breaks out large pieces of plywood, which is due to the use of files with large teeth or punching through the upper part of the sheet.

How to get the perfect cut

In order to get a perfect cut from the end side, you can use both a hand saw and use a power tool. There are several techniques that help to achieve a high-quality cut of plywood. Here are some of them.

The principle of this technique is to reduce the distance between the saw sole and the pressure pad to the minimum possible. This avoids breaking off the top layer of plywood. This effect can be achieved by attaching an overlay plate to the sole of the tool. The pad has a slot to keep the ability to cut along the intended line. Thanks to this, the teeth are guaranteed to cut small chips and do not break out the material.

It is important to exclude mechanical damage to the sheet surface by the overlay. The overlay should be replaced every 5 meters of cut. The use of overlays made of more durable materials (metal, plastic or fiberglass) eliminates the need to frequently change the overlays, the surface of which must first be polished.

To protect the back side of the plywood, a tape is glued along the cut line. This method helps to prevent breaking off large pieces, which is especially effective if it is decided to use a manual or electric jigsaw. However, not every adhesive tape suitable for these purposes. For example, masking tape in this case will be completely useless due to the small margin of safety.

Before you start sawing, a tape tape with fiberglass or aluminum reinforcement is glued onto the surface. The requirements for its width are as follows: there should be a margin of 1.5-2.0 cm on both sides of the saw line. It is better to paste by pressing the tape with a dry cloth, preventing the formation of wrinkles and gluing.

After the saw blade or electric jigsaw has stopped working, you should remove the tool, after unplugging it from the mains. Then proceed to peel off the tape. In this case, great care should be taken so that sudden movements do not cause the separation of small fragments of the laminated surface, which are inevitably formed during cutting. Therefore, it is necessary to abandon the use of materials with a powerful adhesive base. When choosing such a tape, one should take into account its adhesiveness and ease of cleaning from a rough surface.

To cut the plywood sheet correctly, you must use the right tool and follow some rules:

before cutting, it is required to take all measurements and check yourself in order to avoid annoying mistakes;
during operation, it is necessary to monitor the power cord;
before using the tool, it is required to adjust the depth of cut is not the desired value;
the saw blade must be suitable for cutting plywood;
the use of the saw must be accompanied by the use of protective gloves and goggles;
dull saw blades are more dangerous than sharp ones;
when sawing plywood, it is necessary to observe safety not to bring your hands closer to the blade;
do not start work without skills in working with power tools.

Reach excellent quality cutting plywood at home is quite possible if you use a guide rail in your work, correctly cut the material and follow safety precautions when working with cutting tools. Knowledge about the structure of the plywood sheet and the features of its processing will help to avoid annoying mistakes and avoid additional expenses for the purchase of new material to replace the damaged one.

What can cut CSP

Plates standard pressed 3m * 1.5m * 10mm

How can I cut DSP without dust? And then too much dust is obtained when cutting DSP with a diamond disk.

Single disc wall chaser, huh?

I tried it with a wall chaser, but on the other hand, everything flies, the material is 10 mm, and it’s still reluctant to carry dust

Without a casing, it's generally terrible.

harsh electricians in Serov))

but also carpenters, tilers, welders, gardeners, economists, steelworkers and programmers

A long time ago, when I started, I cut them with ordinary stone discs by 125, one was enough for exactly 1.5 meters

The metal disc almost did not cut, it simply melted itself and the DSP melted

then he began to cut with diamond, the disc does not even wear out

then with a wall chaser with and without a vacuum cleaner

Gradually performance increased

now I think that it will be cleaner in work when cutting

if the cleanliness of the cut is not particularly important, file a strip and then break it off. like it should work.

I did this when I cut metal with a disc, it turns out a terrible edge, but it should be more or less even for joining the plates, after cutting I also remove the chamfers manually a little

Well I do not know. if only the diamond is charged into the circular through the adapter and over the bus. there seems to be a more powerful motor)

And if such a » > ? like sawing metal and it turns out chips and not dust

shavings is already a cutter rather. it is hard to believe that with such a motor it will pull. DSP is closer to concrete. like a lot of videos here, probably, it was not without cheating. and I think coolant will require a lot ..

There's probably no cheating here.

so it’s probably, because the power is no more than that of my jigsaw, and it doesn’t cut metal like that

well, the linear speed of the jigsaw is less than the radial speed of the disk. after all 80m-min on all disks. the jigsaw smokes, and the teeth will not win and not tungsten))

Try sawing with a jigsaw (though I don’t remember which files, maybe for metal?). I sawed at the dacha a couple of years ago, I didn’t experience any difficulties.

Does anyone have experience with this material? What was processed?

you can take AEG MBS30 with a diamond disc

it is possible to put on it a disk from a set of 6 teeth, code 4932 3525 34 Fiber cement DSP

that's just absolutely dust-free and do not rely on a regular turbine.

If you connect an external duster, then there is practically no dust.

Try sawing with a jigsaw (though I don’t remember which files, maybe for metal?)

I need to try, but what kind of files and what speed?

Alteration chargers and not only

Jigsaw on DSP? penetratingly yes saws burn like matches. I have this machine for such cases»>, and for DSP and GVL with a bang. The disk just now noticed that it got hooked and I don’t know why, either from metal or from the CSP. I took it last summer, purely for testing - it’s still alive.

The disk just now noticed that it got hooked

what is the disk and where can i get it?

It turns out that this is an analogue of the gauge saw » > ?

It turns out this is an analogue of the calibrating saw

Yes, when I took my saw about the calibration one, nothing was heard, they have the same discs.

And how long does the DSP saw? And how dusty is it?

It turns out that they sawed a lot of metal too?

if 500W can handle it, then if there is a circular for one and a half kilos, it will simply tear the DSP in batches.

if you want without dust, see the topic »>

1 photo clearly shows where all the exhaust goes during the cut

if a cheap analogue of caliber, then see more

for 115 mm diold » >

there is a lot of dust at the end of the hose and the disc is clean

Is there a turbine on the exhaust?

and it's true. a super thought someone from the developers visited)) just adapted for the street)) well, or at home in the window))

well, or at home in the window))

Anatoly, whenever you sing like that, don't forget to fence off the area.

Well, exhaust through the window, so that the neighbor was more fun. In a word, you can’t do without a vacuum cleaner, except to try hanging a bag on the end of the hose, but I doubt that it will be good.

There is also this thing: . 710 W motor and 1.7 kg weight. It must be nicer than crawling around with a three-kilogram fool because of a slate sheet. True, as always, Dremel has a very plastic character, and consumables. On the other hand, to cut to zero on these sheets even small diamond disc, like » > , it will still not turn out instantly. What do you think?

Well, if it’s not dust as such that depresses, but that it flies wildly in all directions and you have to work in a cloud of this muck, so why not use a saber? I used drywall and gypsum fiber, it cuts just fine. There is little noise, the dust crumbles quietly to itself, the speed - as fast as you can with your hand, does not stop the saw (the jigsaw is resting, it is much more inconvenient for them). The saber calmly takes tongue-and-groove blocks, I think she should not have problems with these sheets either. Cloths for concrete / brick / slate to choose from: » >

Fibreboard is an inexpensive and functional material that is successfully used in finishing and construction work. And this is quite understandable, because it can be easily bent, glued, nailed. At the same time, depending on the type of plates, they can be used in several different ways.

Rough floor finish

Draft floors are mounted from hardboard quite often, this material is especially suitable for leveling old plank floors if work on their dismantling is not expected. In addition to obtaining a perfectly flat surface as a result, the fiberboard layer will serve as a good heat insulator, which is especially important for residents of private houses or ground floor apartments in old high-rise buildings.

Important: floors made of fiberboard (even waterproof brands) are not very suitable for wet rooms (bathrooms, showers), as they can be deformed and warped under the influence of water vapor.

For laying the subfloor, unfinished fiberboard with increased hardness or soft fiberboard is used as a soundproof gasket. Despite the abundance of hydrophobic additives in the production of modern fiberboards, experts advise additional processing before laying them. Good results are obtained by impregnation with hot drying oil in 2-3 layers. After complete drying, the sheets can be laid.

Finished hardboard floor

If the old base for the floor is fairly even, the hardboard is laid directly on it. With significant level differences (more than 10 mm), you will have to level the old floor or lay logs. In any case, the surface for laying fiberboard is pre-treated with an antiseptic primer.

Many modern enterprises trading in building materials offer their customers cutting fiberboard according to individual sizes at the time of buying. Special high-precision equipment is a guarantee that the work on cutting the material and processing the edges will be done with high quality, without chips. In this case, your main task will be to accurately make all measurements. If you are so unlucky, you will have to cut the hardboard at home on your own.

In principle, a hand saw with a fine tooth is also suitable for this work. After all, small irregularities formed in the place of cutting, for laying the material as a subfloor, do not matter. With a significant amount of work, cutting fiberboard is much faster and easier using the following tools:

electric jigsaw or circular saw, preferably with a laser guide;
saw blades of a special brand, suitable for cutting hardboard;
goats with an inclination of 20-25% from the vertical, allowing you to fix a large format fiberboard sheet;
metal ruler
marker.

If you have to cut fiberboard for the first time, in order not to spoil the material, first practice on a small piece, setting the jigsaw file to the right of the marking line. Be sure to first familiarize yourself with the techniques of experienced craftsmen, for example, by watching thematic videos, one of which is presented below:

If after laying the fiberboard it is planned to lay linoleum, the hardboard is laid with the wrong side down. In other cases, the corrugated surface will provide better adhesion of fiberboard with finishing materials, so it is turned up.

Installation usually starts from the corner opposite the front door. They fix fiberboards using special staples, nails or screws, or glue them with mastics. Before nailing or gluing, they try to fit the sheets to each other with a minimum gap to make it easier to putty the seams.

By the way, sealing cracks near the walls is not needed, on the contrary, be sure to leave technological gaps that will allow the fibreboard to “play” without deformation when expanding with temperature fluctuations.

Important: joining four corners at a single point is prohibited! Sheets are stacked so that there is no coincidence of transverse joints in adjacent rows.

It is easiest to cut fiberboard when bypassing a heating pipe with an ordinary knife. More accurately, such work can be done according to a specially created template made of thick cardboard, using a jigsaw.

After hardboard flooring, if it is planned to finish the floor with linoleum or paint, it is necessary to seal the seams. In addition to the presence of high adhesive properties, the mass with which we will putty the fiberboard must certainly be plastic, since the floors made of fiberboard are somewhat springy and are able to change their linear dimensions. If you putty the floors with a hard and monolithic putty, then it can either bend and deform the fiberboard sheet, or tear itself at the junction of the seams.

Wall and ceiling decoration

Fiberboards are also in demand for finishing walls and ceilings. Especially often the use of this material is resorted to at the stage of finishing work in the construction of change houses, country houses, sheds and garages, which contributes a lot to its very affordable price.

Nail heads on the ceiling also need to be processed before further finishing.

If foam plastic is used as a heat-shielding layer, it can be glued to fiberboard using spot fastening on liquid nails. Using mineral wool, you will have to spend time hammering together the crate. At the same time, the sealing of seams to reduce labor intensity is carried out using decorative overhead aluminum elements or wooden planks.

If the walls are made of a sufficiently strong material (brick, foam concrete), then fiberboard can be fixed directly on them, without crates, using suitable polymer adhesives and mastics. To increase water resistance, such walls are treated with hydrophobic varnishes or paints after installation. By using slightly more expensive types of fiberboard (for example, laminated), you will get a much more aesthetic wall surface that will not need additional finishing.

If you want the walls to look more aesthetically pleasing, then you can decorate the fiberboard with their wallpaper.

Important: before gluing wallpaper on fiberboard, the surface should be sanded and then coated with a primer!

To neutralize the effect of moisture contained in the wallpaper paste on the fiberboard, it is best to prime the sheets with hot (heated up to 50 ° C) drying oil or acrylic primer. Before doing this, carefully clean the surface to be treated from dust and debris.

Puttying the seams of fiberboard

If the installation of fiberboard was carried out using nails, then in order to avoid further rust stains on the wallpaper, at this stage all attachment points will also have to be sealed with putty. It is also necessary to putty (and in several layers) the joints of the plates, otherwise, after wallpapering, the joints will still be visible.

After preparatory work finished, you can start gluing the wallpaper. In this case, the glue is applied not to the cut canvases, but to the wall surface. Otherwise, the technology of pasting works is similar to the usual one.

Interior arches from fiberboard

Interior arches radically change the design of the room, giving it a touch of originality and nobility. They are very in demand in small apartments, as they visually increase the space.

Due to the fact that fiberboard is quite malleable and the sheet can be easily bent, it is difficult to find a more suitable material for making an arch. At the same time, if you make an arch with your own hands, it will cost you much less than ready-made structures made of solid wood or MDF.

It is easiest to work if the configuration of the arched opening is round or oval. A lancet arch can also be made, but two fiberboards will have to be glued together at the junction point.

Oval arch made of fiberboard - the easiest arched structure to manufacture

Having decided on the shape, we cut out the desired figure from the hardboard using a jigsaw. These blanks are installed in the doorway. To easily bend fiberboard to the desired configuration, finishing the ends of the mounted structure, it can be impregnated with PVA glue, after which the plasticity of the material increases even more.

You can decorate the resulting arched opening by pasting wallpaper. In this case, before finishing, you will have to putty and grind all the seams. If sealing the seams seems too laborious for you, you can finish the joints with decorative plastic corner, which is easy to glue with fiberboard using PVA glue or the same liquid nails.

4homes.ru - Do-it-yourself house

Tip 1: Cut chipboard on the floor with full support

Cutting with full support means that when you bring the saw to the end, the chipboard sheet being cut does not immediately fall off.

Place 5 x 10 cm blocks under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. The bars will have to be sacrificed, as the saw will go through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet lies, the neater the cut will be.

Tip 2: Adjust the depth of cut

The correct depth of cut affects the quality of the cut.

Adjust the depth so that no more than half a tooth of the disc protrudes beyond the bottom edge of the chipboard or plywood (see photo above). This may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the tooth cuts the material instead of chopping it, and the saw is also stabilized so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors make saw marks on the chipboard cut less noticeable.

Tip 3: For rip cuts, use a hard, long, straight object as a guide

As a guide for making an even straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16mm thick and about 30cm wide, which was cut professionally in a specialized workshop. All you need is to tighten its ends with a clamp.

Add this value to the width of your cut, make marks on the chipboard at both edges and lay the guide board. You also need to factor in the thickness of the saw blade in your measurements.

Usually it is best that the metal base plate of the circular saw rested against the edge of the guide, so maximum stability of the saw is achieved during cutting.

Tip 4: Check the guide before making the cut

Tip 5: Cut at a constant speed without stopping

Cut without stopping and maintain a constant speed. If you stop, there will be a mark on the chipboard or plywood.

Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw blade and the sharpness of the blade, as well as the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disk passes through the chipboard sheet with little resistance, as if it were melting the wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, either you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Too fast cutting tears the fibers of the chipboard and leaves visible marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the disc to overheat and ignite the wood.

Tip 6: Get a disc with more teeth

In principle, all the discs from the picture above are able to make a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the disadvantage of the 140 tooth disc is that it dulls faster than the other three types. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a disc with 40 or 56 teeth. It's better to keep another one in reserve. A 56-tooth blade is commonly used for cutting laminate flooring.

You need to remove it carefully, pull it in the direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the chipboard laminating coating.

And one last piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material with front side, cover the saw platform with adhesive tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface of the sheet.

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Do-it-yourself OSB laying on a wooden floor

Floor and ceiling

Several layers of OSB laid on the floor provide excellent sound insulation, increase thermal insulation characteristics, and also soften the impact with the floor when walking. Modern manufacturers have abandoned the addition of toxic substances to the composition of the plates, so this building material is completely environmentally friendly.

OSB on a wooden floor: how to lay down

Now you can start fixing the OSB boards to the wooden floor. The optimal length of self-tapping screws is 45 mm or more. If there are no self-tapping screws, then nails can be used, but this is not the best alternative. To increase strength and other positive characteristics, it is possible to lay a second layer of OSB, but only so that the seams of the above and below layers are placed with an offset of 20-30 cm (that is, the placement of the seams of the first and second layers should not coincide).

At the end of the work, all gaps can be filled with mounting foam, the remains of which are easily cut off with a construction knife after drying. That's actually the whole process.