How to check seeds before planting. Checking pepper seeds for germination and pre-sowing germination. Shelf life of seeds and their germination - how concepts are interconnected

February 3rd. Today I am soaking and starting the process of warming pepper seeds before sowing seedlings. Before that, I decided to check the seeds of one of the varieties of peppers for germination. I also want to check if the culled (not bottomed) seeds will sprout by heating the soaked seeds. Is it true that the seeds tested by this method are not viable.

Sowing seeds of peppers for seedlings, I scheduled for February 6th. There are many ways to prepare seeds for sowing, I want to decide on one or two after receiving the results various methods. This year I bought 9 varieties of peppers for planting. I want to stimulate the seeds of some varieties of peppers for rapid germination in two ways, then compare. Also for peppers, I have three types of preparations from the "Growth Regulators" group, which are recommended for soaking pepper seeds before sowing. seeds different varieties I will soak the peppers in different preparations in order to also determine the preparation that is suitable for me.

To check the seeds, it is recommended to determine their germination in salt water by immersing the seeds in it. It is believed that the seeds that sink to the bottom are germinating, and the seeds that remain on the surface of the water are not germinating. For testing, I chose the variety "Health". The weight of a bag with seeds of this variety is 3 grams. This is a large number of seeds, some of which can be used for testing. I took 20 seeds and put them in brine water.
Salt solution is recommended to prepare 5%. That is, 5 grams of salt is taken per 1 liter of water. I don’t need this amount of solution, I took a 200-gram glass, in which I stirred 1/10 of a teaspoon of salt and poured it into a small container. For information, 10 grams of salt are placed in one teaspoon without top. For 200 grams of water, we take 1 gram of salt, respectively.

I poured 20 seeds into the saline solution, some of them immediately sank to the bottom. A few minutes later, a few more pieces sank to the bottom. After 20 minutes, out of 20 seeds, 6 pieces remained on the surface, 14 pieces sank to the bottom.
It turns out that the germination of seeds is low, only 70%. Slightly less than a third is culled. It is necessary to check whether, in fact, the seeds rejected in this way are not viable.
In the future, I wash the seeds in a sieve under running water and wrap them in several layers of gauze.
I get three types of seeds soaked in this way -

5 seeds of the hybrid "Aries",

14 seeds of the variety "Health"

and 6 seeds of the "Health" variety that did not sink to the bottom.

I put moistened gauze on the battery on a small pallet for three days. I will constantly check if the gauze is dry and moisten it so that the gauze with the seeds wrapped in it is constantly wet.

To prevent the gauze from drying out, you can place the pallet in a plastic bag and tie it.

Information for flower growers and vegetable growers about the intricacies of working with seeds, methods of calibration, about the terms of germination by species. How to speed up the germination process. Germination rules, the possibility of using last year's "strategic stocks" and actually grown ones.

What is seed germination. Timing

For each culture, a certain interval of "awakening" is assigned. Germination is percentage the number of seeds sown and germinated in a given period of time. By the way, old seeds take longer than indicated in the characteristics.

Seed germination period

Each plant has its own period for pecking, usually 7-14 days. Here are examples of the most popular cultures established in laboratory (ideal) conditions:

Cabbage, eggplant, beans, carrots, tomatoes, lettuce - 10 days.
Beans, radishes, corn, peas, turnips, radishes - 6-7 days.
Cucumber, beets, chard, melon - 8 days.
Onion sets, watermelon - 12 days.
Celery, parsnips, dill, parsley, spinach - 14 days.
Pepper - 15 days.

Seed shelf life

Celery, parsnips are stored for 1-2 years.
Rhubarb, spinach, pepper, corn - 2-3.
Pepper, onion, chicory - 3.
Onion, lettuce, basil - 3-4.
Beets, tomatoes, turnips, chard, cabbage / kohlrabi - 4-5 years.
Corn, legumes - 5-6.
Watermelon, cucumber, pumpkin, melon, zucchini, carrots, eggplant - stored 6-8.

Germination test. Calibration


Experts recommend doing seed calibration before checking germination. Half-empty and small specimens are doomed to unsuccessful sowing - this is low quality material, which must be removed in advance. Calibration makes it possible to use only full-fledged seeds that will give friendly seedlings and then productive, powerful plants.

Large and medium seeds contain great potential nutrients, it is this factor that affects the strength of growth and the quality of the future seedling. So the calibration is milestone helping to get decent seedlings.

We do calibration


It is difficult to visually determine the mass and reserve of force in the seed. There is effective method selection: dive into special solution. Take half a liter of water, add 3 tsp. salt, immerse the seeds for two hours. As a result, all full-weight specimens will be at the bottom, hollow and small ones remain afloat - they must be removed. Then drain the liquid, rinse and dry. After this check, you have a quality material for sowing. By the way, a small size can also be suitable.

We reveal the percentage of germination

It is useful to know that no seeds have 100% germination. Each culture has individual viability criteria. Here is an example of the average % germination:

40-50% - carrots, parsley, peppers, parsnips, dill.
50-80% - black onion, leek, batun, spinach.
60-80% - sorrel, celery, radish, beets, tomatoes.
65-90% - cabbage / cauliflower, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce.
80-95% - beans, zucchini, peas, watermelon, melon.


You can independently set the percentage of germination in a simple way. Take, for example, 10 seeds, place them on wet material (paper towel, gauze, toilet paper) and leave in the room at a temperature of 18 ... 22C. Make sure the surface does not dry out. Then count how much sprouted. The number of hatched will be the percentage of germination, if out of 10 7 sprouted, then 70%. 50% is enough for sowing. At 30%, it is better not to plant seeds.

How to increase germination and speed up seed germination

Pre-treatment will help not only speed up the pipping process, but also improve further growth. Experts advise not to be limited to calibration and sorting, you need to use other techniques.

warming up

When working with seed, you should use the method artificial heating. Dry seeds heated at +40…+50С germinate faster, grow better and give mainly female flowers. Attention! You can not warm the seed of tomatoes, cabbage, carrots.

trace elements

The impact of solutions with boron fertilizers useful for carrots, tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, beets. With elements of copper - for carrots, onions, beets. Molybdenum activates zucchini, tomatoes, pumpkin, cucumbers. It is important to know that using microelements, you cannot make a high concentration, you need a weak solution (0.1%), the procedure should not exceed 12-20 hours.

Growth stimulants

Soaking in growth stimulants, for example, Energen, Athlete, Ecopin, Agricola, gives a positive effect.

hardening

12-18 hours after the start of soaking, the seeds of tomatoes and peppers should be put in the refrigerator, an interval of 10-12 hours is enough. For parsley, cabbage, carrots, black onions, cooling lasts a week (0 ... + 8C).

Disinfection

The disinfection method helps to neutralize the development of microorganisms present on the seed coat and hindering development. To do this, use a 1% (strong) solution of potassium permanganate or 20% salt solution acids. After such a procedure, thorough rinsing is required: the container is placed under running water.

Many summer residents try to grow seedlings on the windowsill or in greenhouses. This is cheaper in terms of money, and there will be confidence in the desired variety and quality of seedlings. After all, it is not known from which seed material the purchased seedlings were grown.

In addition, not all purchased seeds have good germination. The longer they are stored, the less likely they are to sprout. And in order not to miss in the future and not waste time on planting and seeding, you need to know how to check the seeds for germination.

To put it in the language of agronomists, this is the percentage of germinated seeds to the number of sown. That is, how many seed will sprout in conditions acceptable to them.

How healthy and strong is the seed and how quickly will it germinate in natural conditions without the use of additional growth stimulants.

Not all seeds germinate at the same time. Some of them will begin to hatch in a couple of days. Others will take much longer. But, on average, most of them will begin to germinate in one or two weeks.

The older the seed, the longer it will take to germinate. If they do not show signs of life for a long time, or even more so become moldy, such a seed should definitely be thrown away.

Each type of garden crop begins to grow in different time, and the timing of their germination is also different.

The most common crops:

  • Legumes (peas and beans) germinate within one week. Their seeds are suitable for planting no more than 6 years;
  • Tomatoes, peppers and eggplants sprout within two weeks. The term of their viability is 5 years;
  • Carrot seeds will sprout in 10 days. They can be stored for 2-3 years;
  • Cucumbers, watermelons and melons, zucchini and pumpkins begin to hatch already on the 3rd day. You can plant them for 6-8 years;
  • Cabbage sprouts within 10 days. Seeds can be stored for 5 years, no more;
  • Radishes and radishes hatch on the 7th day. They are suitable for planting 4-5 years;
  • Corn will rise on the 5th day. The shelf life of her seed is not great, and is 2-3 years.

The temperature at which the seeds should germinate is not lower than +20 °C and not higher than +30 °. Dill seeds can germinate with more low temperatures from 8 to 12 degrees of heat.

Basically, all packages with seeds indicate the percentage of germination. And it's big enough. And when sowing them at home, it happens that very little will sprout, and the rest will die.

Does this mean that the manufacturer is deceiving us? Not at all, because it indicates the germination of seeds in the most optimal conditions for them (laboratory). What at home can be achieved with great difficulty.

When and how seeds are checked for germination

Every farmer with experience knows that seeds are checked for germination at the end of winter (in February) or at the very beginning of spring. It concerns horticultural crops. Floral, you can check all spring until its very end.

Before you start checking the seeds for germination at home, they need to be sorted out and discarded small or moldy:

  1. large seeds vegetable crops(melons, pumpkins, beets and cucumbers) are sorted in ordinary clean settled water. Small seeds (cabbage, radish, carrot, tomato) in salt water. It is necessary to prepare a solution for 1 liter of liquid 50 gr. salt.
  2. Dip the seeds in a container of water and mix them lightly. Then everything is left for 15-20 minutes. Those that have surfaced are not suitable for landing. Everything that has gone to the bottom is considered a good seed.
  3. Then they need to be filtered through a fine sieve or gauze, and again immersed in water for disinfection. To do this, prepare a weak, pink solution of potassium permanganate, soak the seed in it for 1 hour. After dry.
  4. decompose thin layer dry seeds on a paper sheet. Hold close to them with an electrified wand. Here you can remember the childhood fun when rubbed ball pen and was carried out near small paper leaves. All hollow seeds will definitely stick to the stick.

At home, seed germination is checked in several ways:

Checking seeds with a spray gun

Small seeds (cabbage, carrot, tomato, sorrel, lettuce, parsley and dill, pepper and eggplant) are selected no more than a dozen.

You need to take a shallow plate, put a paper or cloth napkin on it. Put the seeds on a napkin, retreating 1 cm from each other. Then, using a spray bottle, spray the seed with water room temperature. Do not fill them heavily, without access to oxygen they can become moldy.

Top cover cling film. Put in a warm place where the air temperature does not fall below + 20 °. It shouldn't be hot either. Maximum temperature+25°.

Several times a day, you need to look at the seeds, if necessary, spray them so that they do not dry out. This is done in order to control the beginning of growth. If the life reserve is large, then the seeds will hatch as soon as possible.

The best germination percentage is considered if 6 out of 10 seeds hatch.

How to check germination in salt water

Using this method, it is possible to determine the germination of seeds of almost all garden crops. If cabbage, tomato and radish seeds are tested, you will need instead fresh water- salty (in a glass of water you need to dilute a teaspoon of salt).

The selected seeds are poured into a glass, plate, jar and poured with water. Mix everything well and leave for 10 minutes. All the seeds that remain at the bottom will certainly sprout well. After they are washed and dried in a well-ventilated place.

Using sawdust

The germination of large seeds of garden crops is tested using sawdust.

First you need to spill them several times with boiling water. Then pour into containers, you can use the boxes. Lay the seeds on top, at a distance of at least 3 cm from each other, row spacing 2 cm. Sprinkle everything again with sawdust and tamp well.

Cover with cling film on top. The boxes are installed in a room with an air temperature of +27 °C.

After a few days, the percentage of seed germination is calculated.

Not everyone knows that carrot seeds have long-term storage the percentage of germination increases, which cannot be said about parsley, celery and pepper.

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    In the spring, when it is already necessary to prepare seedlings, the problem of non-germination may arise. seeds. So that time is not wasted in vain, it is better to check the seeds for germination in advance. This can be done in several ways to choose from:

    ✓ large seeds (pumpkin, peas, cucumbers, beans, etc.) are checked for germination by placing a small amount of them between two layers of sawdust soaked in boiling water in a warm place (25-27 ° C). The degree of germination in this case will be calculated as the ratio of sprouted seeds to intact ones, for example, if 7 out of 10 seeds sprouted, then the entire batch has an average germination rate of about 70%;

    ✓ small seeds (cabbage, carrots, dill, etc.) are checked for germination by placing between wet wipes in a warm place (about 23 ° C). The degree of germination is calculated in the same way as in the previous version of the test;

    ✓ to find out which seeds are germinating from the whole mass, you can fill them with water for 5-10 minutes. Those that float up are bad, empty, spoiled, and those that remain at the bottom are good. It should be remembered that the seeds of tomatoes, cabbage and radish should be poured with salted water (about 10 g of salt per glass of water);

    ✓ very small seeds can be tested for germination using static electricity: spread the seeds on a flat surface in a thin layer, electrify an ebonite stick and pass it over the seeds. The weakest, empty ones will stick to it.

    In addition to the presence of seedlings, you should pay attention to the speed of the process: high-quality and strong seeds germinate, of course, faster. The average seed germination time of some vegetable crops is presented in Table.

    Germination of seeds of some vegetable crops

    How long do seeds stay viable

    Duration of preservation of seed germination different vegetables different (table).

    Duration of preservation of germination of seeds of vegetables