Perilla plant. Perilla is a vegetable crop. We prepare the ridge in which it will grow

Landing. Everyone who is engaged or wants to grow rhododendrons, the question arises, when is the best time to transplant rhododendrons, how to feed them, what kind of care do they require? More than 20 years of experience in the cultivation of rhododendrons in the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. P. Stuchki showed that the most right time for transplanting rhododendrons in our republic - spring (April - the first half of May) and autumn (September-November), when the growth has finished and the young shoots have strengthened. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, excluding periods of flowering and immediately after flowering, when intensive shoot growth begins. Such a wide range of rhododendron transplant times is due to the compactness of their root system and the density of the root ball. In rhododendrons, unlike others ornamental trees and shrubs, it is practically not damaged during transplantation root system, the connection between the roots of plants and the substrate is not lost.

Thus, if the landing site is chosen and prepared correctly, then the transplanted rhododendrons in the new place grow just as well as in the old one. In long-term plantations should be planted only healthy plants with well developed compact root system. AT group landings the distance between plants (flowering) should be such that their crowns barely touch.

Already before acquiring rhododendrons, you need to know what place in the garden will be reserved for their planting, and it is best to be guided by the landscaping project developed by specialists. The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing winds and from the direct burning rays of the sun, the soil should be prepared accordingly.

Before planting, rhododendrons should be watered abundantly. Well-watered rhododendrons tolerate transportation and transplanting better. If the root balls of the rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried up, they should be immersed in water for several hours so that they are well saturated with water.

Before planting rhododendrons, the soil should be carefully prepared. In nurseries or if rhododendrons are planted in large groups, the soil is prepared over the entire area. If one or more specimens are planted, then for each plant or each small group prepare landing pit required size, i.e., about twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. When planting rhododendrons near big trees the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material. Sour sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil are poured into the dug hole, pine needles and other organic materials. It is not necessary to have all of the above components; you can get by with several or even one material, such as peat. Organic materials fill 1/2 of the pit, and the rest of the volume - mineral soil, dug in the preparation of the pit. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m 3 of the substrate. Then all the components in the pit are thoroughly mixed. Mixing can also be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a completely prepared substrate. The landing site should be prepared in advance, in the fall, and rhododendrons should be planted in the spring.

Rice. fifteen.Planting rhododendrons: 1 - rhododendron planted too small; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - Properly planted rhododendron.

Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. In the prepared pit, they dig a cell corresponding to the size of the root ball of the rhododendron, and plant the plant in this cell. The space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and the root ball is covered on top thin layer(no more than 5 cm) of the substrate. In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery (Fig. 15). After transplanting, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, watering is not required. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the plants. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, at least 5 liters of water are needed for irrigation after transplantation, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. To prevent water from spreading during irrigation, a small mulch roller is made around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. Sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials can be used as mulch, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.

If rhododendrons planted in a permanent place have a lot of flower buds, some of them should be broken off so that plants that have not yet fully rooted do not spend much-needed nutrients and moisture on flowering. A few flower buds can be left, so that when flowering you can appreciate the beauty of the planted plant.

With solitary plantings, when rhododendrons are planted on the lawn one at a time, so that the wind does not shake the plants that have not yet taken root, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, tilted against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it (Fig. 16). When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.

At proper care rhododendrons bloom and bear fruit profusely every year. During flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients. Anyone who grows rhododendrons notices the periodicity in their flowering: one year rhododendrons bloom very profusely, and the next year less. To eliminate such periodicity, if seeds are not needed, faded inflorescences are broken out immediately after flowering. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering in next year. To break out a faded inflorescence, it is slightly bent down, holding it large and index fingers. At the same time, the fragile axis of the inflorescence breaks easily at the base. In this way, faded inflorescences are removed much faster than with a knife or scissors. This work should be carried out carefully and carefully so as not to break off the young, fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. Removing faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of a more lush bush, since after this operation, at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If the faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that without a flower bud.

top dressing. In order for rhododendrons to bloom profusely and beautifully every year, grow well, develop normally, be healthy and not damaged by pests, they must be properly fertilized. Top dressing is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. Long time even experts were of the opinion that rhododendrons do not require top dressing, that they grow and bloom well without it. The most daring and determined gardeners in best case well-decomposed manure was used as fertilizer. The prejudice against mineral fertilizers was especially strong, since it was believed that rhododendrons did not tolerate them. With the expansion of knowledge on the mineral nutrition of plants in nurseries, they began to carefully apply rhododendrons and mineral fertilizers. Nowadays, no one considers it possible to obtain high-quality planting material for rhododendrons without the use of mineral fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are necessary not only for rhododendrons growing in nurseries. Those rhododendrons that grow in plantations on permanent place. Only then will rhododendrons show their beauty - bright, juicy green foliage, abundant flowering, lush habitus. Breeders, using various mineral fertilizers, try to speed up the flowering of hybrids in order to see the results of their work faster.

Rhododendrons are slow growing plants with shallow, compact root systems, so they cannot tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding rhododendrons.

As the experience of the specialists of the Botanical Garden of the Leningrad State University. P. Stuchka and foreign experts, rhododendrons need to be fertilized already in the first year after transplantation, immediately after the rooting of the transplanted plants. Rhododendrons should be fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during active growth young shoots. It is desirable that the top dressing be liquid.

What external signs Do Rhododendrons Indicate a Nutrient Deficiency? The most characteristic sign is a change in the color of the leaves: they become light, their luster decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green, the plants have very little annual growth, they do not lay flower buds, in August and early September, there is an increased fall of old leaves.

The most accessible and common of organic fertilizers are old semi-rotted manure, horn shavings and blood meal, horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Semi-rotted cow manure not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability and water-holding capacity increase. how organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn flour are of great value, having a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and having a long and mild effect, since the process of their decomposition takes longer than the decomposition of manure.

If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be preferred. Like mineral fertilizers, it is desirable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then used for top dressing. To fertilize rhododendrons, you can also use slurry, diluting it with water to a light brown color. To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, you need to add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid. When fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the reaction of the soil, since this top dressing can change the pH of the substrate. Before top dressing, rhododendrons should be well watered so that the root ball gets wet to the full depth.

If there is semi-decomposed manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured on the surface of the soil around each plant with a layer about 5 cm thick. With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate the soil, and the plants receive the necessary top dressing.

If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then inorganic fertilizers should be oriented.

Mineral fertilizers are essentially concentrates of nutrients, so with a small amount of them, a lot of the nutrients needed by plants are introduced into the soil. Since rhododendrons grow well on acidic soils, physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, magnesium sulphate, potassium sulphate, calcium sulphate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used for top dressing, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.

The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for feeding rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (solution potash fertilizers should be even weaker). For fertilizing rhododendrons, chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used. You need to start feeding plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise, with warm weather and sufficient humidity, soil and air can cause secondary growth of shoots. Young shoots that started growing late, have time to complete growth before the end of the growing season and in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. AT climatic conditions In our republic, which is characterized by warm and humid summers and autumns, the secondary growth of shoots in late August or early September is observed in many species of rhododendrons. You can stop it by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K 2 SO 4 or a 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH 2 RO 4.

Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective. To prepare it, 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO 3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH 2 PO 4 are taken per 10 liters of water. A solution is obtained that contains the main macroelements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the medium within the required limits (2-7) .

Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is a very laborious work, therefore, in the mass cultivation of rhododendrons, dry mineral fertilizers are used. This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m 2 of area or for one plant 1 m high, 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition should be taken: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, around the end of March and the first half of April). During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. This time, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.

You can carry out top dressing in a slightly different way: in early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown per 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate. In late May - early June, after the flowering of rhododendrons, 80 g of a mixture is applied per 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. Top dressing of open ground rhododendrons with mineral fertilizer solutions is carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July. For top dressing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for top dressing of rhododendrons closed ground. For 10 liters of water, 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate are taken. In addition, during this period, in order to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is advisable to water the plants 1-2 more times with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution.

Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, so their fertilizer is discussed in the section that talks about the propagation of rhododendrons by seeds.

KONDRATOVICH "RODODENDRONS", Riga, 1981 (experience of introduction of rhododendrons in Latvia)

Perilla vegetable culture is another type of salad plant that is used in cooking. The only species of this annual herbaceous plant It has Latin name Perilla frutescens - vegetable perilla. The plant came to us from Southeast Asia (Japan, China).

There perilla is eaten as a spice called shiso. The height of the plant can reach 140 cm, the leaves are located on a tetrahedral stem. At the base of the stem, the leaves are large, on long petioles; closer to the top, the leaves are more elongated, on short petioles or without them at all.

The leaves are opposite, they can be red, green or variegated. There are sharp notches along the edges of the leaves, so the green leaves look like nettles. Perilla seeds contain a large number of oil, its content reaches 45 percent.

In Asian countries, this quick-drying oil is a technical raw material for the manufacture of varnishes and varnishes. Oil is also used to produce printing inks and waterproof material. In China, after special purification, the oil is used in cooking and as a cure for certain diseases.

Thanks to the shape and beautiful coloring book leaves vegetable perilla bred as ornamental plant. The railing along the edges of flower beds and large flower beds looks especially attractive, acting as a border plant.

In Russia, vegetable perilla is considered a promising spice crop. seeds vegetable perilla Rosinka varieties can be found on the shelves of stores for summer residents and gardeners. This variety is characterized both by its decorative effect and excellent taste.

Its delicate and juicy greenery has a special pleasant aroma and refreshing aftertaste. The presence of anise, lemon is guessed in the smell, a delicate aroma is felt allspice and caramel. Rosinka is an early maturing, cold-resistant variety, the growing season is 4-5 months.

cultivation

Perilla vegetable grows well on neutral, moist, fertile soils. Landing place - open area located in the sun. AT comfortable conditions the plant rises to a height of 140 cm. You can grow a vegetable perilla culture by seedlings or planting in open ground.

Perilla seeds do not germinate well, so they are soaked for 2-3 days before planting. For seedlings, seeds are sown in the last decade of March. Seedlings are planted in open ground 60 days after sowing. When planting between rows, a distance of 30 - 40 cm is left, and between seedlings in the row itself - 20 cm.

In open ground spring planting seed is carried out in April. When 2-3 leaves appear, the plants are thinned out. Leave 20 cm between plants. Perilla care is standard: loosening, weeding, watering. Feeding is performed once every two weeks. Feeding is especially required after cutting plants for greenery.

To form compact bushes, pinch the central shoot of a vegetable crop. The seed manufacturer recommends top dressing with water-soluble fertilizer "Aelita-vegetable". Cutting greens is carried out twice during the summer, at a height of 10 cm from the ground, or cut off constantly, to choose from, individual shoots.

Use in cooking

Cut young leaves and shoots are used in cold dishes, salads, to decorate and add flavor to fish and meat dishes. Mature leaves are salted, pickled and dried. Dried leaves are ground into a powder and added to dishes as a fragrant seasoning.
Vegetable perilla is a culture with high decorative properties, and the leaves of the plant are used in the preparation of a wide range of dishes.

Video: Perilla - vegetable crop

The plant belongs to the Lamiaceae (Lamiaceae) family. Today it is a monotypic genus, although until recently it included 6 species. But now these species are considered just varieties. In nature, it grows in the Himalayas, in Japan, China, and India. And there it is perennial. In our country, shrub perilla (Perilla frutescens) is grown as an annual. She has several more names - perilla Nanjing, vegetable, curly.

Under natural conditions, the perilla grows up to 1 m, has an upright, branched, tetrahedral stem in section, densely overgrown with leaves. They constitute the main decorative value of the plant. The leaves are ovate with a serrated edge, pubescent, grow oppositely, the lower leaves are on long petioles, the upper ones are sessile or on short petioles. The color of the leaves is green, purple, red, with spots in red tones of varying intensity. There are varieties with curly fringe along the edge of the leaf. The flowers are small, collected in apical paniculate inflorescence. They appear in July. The fruits ripen in September-October.

We have in middle lane Russian perilla has a bush height of about 50 cm. It rarely blooms and the seeds, as a rule, do not ripen.

Plant loves sunny place with loose fertile soil. Watering is normal - 2-3 times a week. If the soil is not fertilized enough, compost or other organic matter must be added. Acidity requires neutral or slightly alkaline soil. Periodically it is necessary to weed and loosen. The plant tolerates shearing well, which is very useful when harvesting (used in cooking).

Perilla shrub propagates by seeds. It is necessary to sow in the first half of April for seedlings, followed by picking. When the seedlings grow a little, you can pinch them to better bush. Seeds germinate better in the light, so they do not need to be sealed. Shoots usually appear in 10-14 days. For better germination before sowing seeds should be kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of approximately +5 C for 2-4 weeks. Seedlings are transplanted into open ground when the threat has passed. spring frosts. Planting interval is about 20 cm.

AT southern regions can be sown in May in open ground.

There are a large number of varieties. AT decorative purposes variegated perilla is commonly grown. It can be used to decorate borders, to create accents in flower beds. It pairs beautifully with coleus. Against the background of dark purple perilla foliage, bright flowering plants look contrasting.

But perilla is still used both as a spice and as medicinal plant. In cooking, young leaves are used in fresh in salads. Old leaves are stewed, boiled, salted, marinated. All this goes well with meat, rice, fish. In Japan, inflorescences, buds, and seeds are used.

As a medicinal plant, perilla is used as an antioxidant, tonic, with food poisoning. In oriental medicine, the range of applications is much wider.

Shrub perilla is an annual plant that is related to mint and. The birthplace of perilla is Japan, where it is in great demand in cooking. The plant reaches a height of up to one and a half meters and has jagged leaves with purple, green or variegated color. Purple perilla bears a strong resemblance to basil.

Perilla flowers are usually white, bell-shaped. As the flowers ripen, grains-seeds are formed in place of the flowers, which are very valuable in the production of paint and varnish coatings. Not only that, the oil extracted from the seeds provides health benefits when eaten. The plant itself contains rich content carotene, and the pigment has an analgesic and anti-inflammatory effect. Also, perilla is often used to decorate landscape designs on the streets of the city, as it perfectly dilutes the compositions of flower beds and flower beds.

. Most often it is used for landscape design. The plant is grown from seedlings. Planting perilla using seeds takes a long time, as they take quite a long time to germinate.

The planting period for perilla seeds is from late April to early May.

Features of plant propagation using seeds:

• To speed up and germinate seeds, soak them for three days, while changing the water at least 2-3 times a day. It is important that the seeds are fresh, as 2-3 summer storage will reduce germination to zero.
• Next, the seeds are planted in a container to a depth of 5 mm. Soil for planting: 2 parts of humus and 1 part of peat, if desired, you can use. It is also important to put drainage on the bottom of the tank, for example, expanded clay.
• Seeds are planted densely enough so that in the process of growth it is possible to remove weak shoots. The soil is moistened, and the containers are covered with a film.

Shoots should appear in 8-10 days. After the appearance of two leaves on the shoot, it can be planted in the ground. A suitable period for this is the beginning of June. It is important that there are no frosts guaranteed. Optimum temperature for perilla growth from 22 to 28 degrees.

The distance between the shoots should be from 20 to 30 cm. Collect the perilla already at the beginning. The stems are cut, leaving a 10 cm cutting. Perilla can be cut twice per season.

Perilla is quite unpretentious in care, but you should remember some rules that will help you grow a healthy and strong plant.

1. It is worth planting the perilla in a bright and draft-protected place.
2. The soil should be loosened and weeded, it should absorb moisture well.
3. The soil should be predominantly black earth. The plant will not be able to grow in swampy or sandy areas.
4. In case of excessive rapid growth up to 1 meter, you can do pinching shoots.
5. With excessive soil moisture and low temperatures, flowering and pollination occur much later.
6. Perilla can be fed with potassium salt and saltpeter, as well as nettle infusion.

When choosing seeds, pay attention to the name of the species. The absence of the name of the type of perilla on the label may indicate low-quality raw materials.

You can get seeds yourself. For this, several of the most strong plants in pots, and grow them on the windowsill in autumn period. Perilla will bloom in winter, and by summer it will be possible to get seeds for sowing.

The main pests that will have to be dealt with when growing perilla:

• Sandy slow. This beetle contributes to damage to the seed at the time of emergence. After the appearance of the sprout, the lingering gnaws through the stem. To combat this pest, there are the following methods: deep plowing of the soil, timely destruction of weeds and fallen leaves, the use of alkaline and lime fertilizers, as well as special poisonous baits.
• Cotton owl. The caterpillar or butterfly of this pest damages both seeds and leaves with stems. For preventive control of the scoop, you should: often loosen the ground around the plant, thus destroying it, destroy weeds in time, as scoops like to lay eggs on them, collect pests by hand, spray perilla with a decoction of burdock, pepper or wormwood, use baits with fermented kvass , and in advanced cases insecticides are used to control moths.
• Spider mite. These small insects up to 1 mm in size, the leaves of the plant are braided with cobwebs. They hide on the underside of the foliage, as well as in the ground. Tick ​​colonies can contain hundreds of insects. The mites feed on the juice of the plant, nibbling the leaves, which subsequently dry out and fall off. The first signs of mite damage are manifested in the appearance of white spots and cobwebs on perilla leaves. The plant becomes less resistant to infections and diseases. Preventively, it is advisable to spray the plants with water, as the tick does not like moisture. You should also periodically collect fallen leaves and remove dried plants. If a spider mite just settled on the plant, then, first of all, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the perilla with an aqueous solution with the addition laundry soap. For starters, you can try to do without chemicals and treat the perilla with water with the addition of Neem tree oil, and then put bags on the affected plants and leave for three days. If the spider mite has struck most of the crop, then only special insecticides will help.

Perilla diseases:

• In addition to pests, perilla is prone to a disease such as leaf spot. It can be observed before the flowering of the plant. The edges of the leaves begin to dry out, acquiring a brown color. Such plants usually grow poorly and reduce yields. Plantings should be carefully monitored and diseased plants should be destroyed immediately to prevent spread. Because it fungal disease, then the soil also requires processing after harvesting. Spray the infected soil several times with Bordeaux liquid.
• Another disease that can affect perilla is gray rot. The reason may be too frequent planting of the plant and excessive moisture. On the initial stage the leaves are covered with gray spots, which then develop into mold, capturing the whole plant. If gray rot has just formed on the perilla, then you can try spraying the plant with an iodine solution. The affected leaves should also be treated. In extreme cases, they will come to the rescue.

Perilla has long been used in cooking. She is especially in demand in Japanese cuisine. You can use it both fresh and as a condiment. Perilla has a lemon-anise flavor that adds a special piquancy to dishes.

Perilla leaves are often used in marinades and even in the preparation of compotes. They color the liquid in a pleasant pink color. Good railing and meat dishes, but it is worth adding it a few minutes before readiness, so the aroma is better preserved.

In addition, perilla has huge amount useful properties:

• Perilla essential oil is rich in alpha-linoleic and omega-3 acids.
• The use of oil will help get rid of high cholesterol, inflammation of the joints and skin diseases, as well as calm the nervous system.
• The presence of tannins have antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and expectorant effects.

With a cold, you can prepare an infusion. 4 tablespoons of dried stems and leaves of perilla are poured into 500 ml of water and boiled in a water bath for 15 minutes. Next, the broth must be insisted for 1.5 hours and filtered. Take half a cup up to five times a day.

Dried perilla greens are sold in powder form as a general health supplement.

Contraindication for use is pregnancy and lactation. Perilla is often used in the manufacture of various cosmetics: creams, masks and even shampoos.

Despite its wonderful properties, perilla is not very popular among Russian flower growers and gardeners. However, many believe that due to their palatability, perilla is able to compete with our favorite spices - dill, and. After all, having tried this spice once, you will want to feel its piquant and refreshing aroma again and again.

More information can be found in the video:

On the household plots more Russian summer residents and gardeners appear exotic plants both decorative and spicy.

Such plants include spicy herb perilla, the cultivation of which is possible in garden conditions and even on the windowsill. Learn how to grow this delicious and fragrant herb with beautiful serrated leaves at home and in open ground.

Growing perilla outdoors

Growing from seeds is possible in two ways: through seedlings or immediately in open ground.

As for the choice of perilla variety, Russian gardeners usually choose the Rosinka variety, whose yield is 0.5-5 kg ​​per square meter, and the weight of the bush reaches 500 grams.

Perilla vegetable "Rosinka": how to grow from seeds

To grow perilla directly from seeds, follow the instructions below.

We prepare the ridge in which it will grow

We choose a sunny fertile plot of land for sowing, not blown by strong winds.

We feed the soil with compost at the rate of 3 kg per square meter. We bring in half of the compost immediately, the second half - when the plants begin to grow green mass.

Ideally, perilla is best sown in areas where beans, peas or beans grew last year.

We sow the seeds

We sow perilla seeds when the earth warms up to 10-12 degrees: in warm earth sprouts appear after 10-14 days.

Seedlings are sown in groups of three at a distance of 40 cm from each other and to a depth of no more than 0.5 cm.

Thinning out plants

As soon as the perilla grows up, in each group we leave one of the strongest plants, the rest we pull out and use as greens.

In order for plants to grow a rich green mass, on one square meter no more than 25 railings should remain. By the way, in the southern part of Russia, perilla can be sown before winter.

Perilla "Rosinka": growing seedlings

If you live in the middle lane, we grow perilla seedling way so that she can give a couple decent harvests greenery:

• Preparing the ground. Best of all, perilla seeds germinate in the soil of peat and humus: we pour it into a box for seedlings.
• We prepare the seeds. In order for the seeds to germinate faster, we place them in wet sand and put them away for a week in a cool place. The second option: soak them in water for three days, regularly changing the water.
• We sow the seeds. You can sow perilla for seedlings at the end of March or in early April. We sow achenes in moist, shallow rows, without falling asleep with earth. Cover with plastic and put in a warm, bright place. When roots appear from the seeds, sprinkle them a little with sand and moisten them so that they are well rooted.

We plant seedlings in the garden in early June, when there are no more frosts.

How to care for perilla

Caring for perilla is quite simple. It consists in timely weeding, watering, loosening of row spacing and top dressing. chicken manure. To feed the plants, we bring litter under them in small lumps.

And so that the perilla branches well and gives more greenery, we pinch the tops of the shoots.

Greens are cut selectively, and not all at once. If you live in the middle lane, you can cut off the greens all summer, if in the south - when the plants begin to bloom. Most essential oils perilla contains during rapid flowering.

It grows well at home - in ordinary flower pots. In addition to growing spicy fragrant greens, you get an ornamental plant that decorates the interior no worse than other indoor flowers.

How to grow perilla from seed on a windowsill

To grow it beautiful plant on the windowsill, proceed as follows:

• We pour in small box for seedling easy fertile soil, for example, universal.
• We make shallow grooves, spill them and sow as many seeds as you want to have plants (but it is better to plant more, in case some do not sprout).
• Without sprinkling the seeds with soil, we cover the box with polyethylene (we will remove it when the shoots sprout) and put it on a bright, warm windowsill.
• Sprinkle the hatched roots with sand to hide them and protect them from the black leg.
• The grown plants (the strongest) are planted in flower pots or flowerpots. In order for the perilla to grow well, we pinch the tops of the shoots.

Planting in pots is also convenient because in the warm season they can be taken out into the street. Caring for a home perilla, both in warm and in cold seasons, is surprisingly simple: watering and regular fertilizing with herbal infusion or wood ash.

Now you know that perilla, which can be grown both in open ground and at home, is a very unpretentious and generous plant for greenery. Decorate your home with it and use green and purple leaves for health benefits!