Do-it-yourself gas soldering iron. Features and benefits of using a gas soldering iron. Soldering wire resistor

Quite convenient to use. However, in the absence of the ability to connect to the mains, or other problems with electricity, it is best to use a gas soldering iron. This is very handy tool running on isobutane or propane-butane. Today's market offers a lot different options this tool, but one of the best is gas

Its benefits

Device and equipment

The gas soldering iron itself consists of a container for the ignition system and working nozzle. Inside the burner there is a special ceramic grate with a platinum coating. It is used as a catalyst to prevent open flames. Due to this, the combustion of the mixture occurs in optimal mode and the soldering iron heats up very quickly.

A special gas supply is used to adjust the heating intensity. Ignition elements can be both piezo and mechanical. When fully charged, the device can work from several minutes to 2 - 3 hours. You can fill it up from gas spray for tiles or from a conventional gas bottle for lighters.

The kit includes the device itself, a variety of tips, a gas bottle, solder wire and other accessories. The set is packed in a convenient, durable plastic case, thanks to which it is very easy to store and transport it.

Application

As already noted, a gas soldering iron is a fairly versatile and convenient device for use in the absence of electricity. A wide temperature range and a variety of nozzles make it possible to solder as very small parts microcircuits, and large wires. Workpieces can be made from a wide variety of materials.

Three seconds is enough to warm up this device, you do not need to wait until it is ready for use. The soldering iron refuels quickly and does not require a lot of gas to work. Normal isobutane for lighters is suitable as fuel. The device is economical and easy to use.

The design of a gas soldering iron for the repair of bodies, radiators, lugs of copper cables of large cross section. The main advantages over the traditional "hammer" and blowtorch are: the possibility of continuous soldering, maintaining the desired temperature, which is important when performing a large amount of work, as well as the ability to control the degree of heating.

In the practice of motorists, one often has to deal with the need for soldering or welding. A few years ago, I accidentally saw a gasoline-powered soldering iron made in the GDR used for these purposes, and then the idea came up to make a similar one, but powered by gas, with my own hands. The result exceeded all expectations - and now the gas soldering iron takes its rightful place in my set. Tools- Operation it during the repair of bodies, radiators, lugs of large-section copper cables confirmed the operability of the structure. The main advantages over the traditional "hammer" and blowtorch are: the possibility of continuous soldering, maintaining the desired temperature, which is important when performing a large amount of work, as well as the ability to control the degree of heating.

Fig.1. Gas-burner:
1,2 - soldering iron holders; 3 - soldering iron rod lock; 4 - nozzle body; 5 - jet; 6 - crane PPB-yo; 7 - handle; 8 - gas pipeline.

For the manufacture of a soldering iron, a cork-type crane PPB-1, used in the oil pipeline of a GAZ-53 car, was needed. Its refinement consisted in turning the front part up to 12 mm and threading M 12x1.5 mm. A jet with a hole with a diameter of 0.8 mm is made of brass and pressed into the faucet body. It should be noted that the holes in different taps differ by 0.1 mm in one direction or another. Therefore, the adjustment of the landing surface of the jet was carried out individually.

The material for the nozzle was a piece of pipe made of of stainless steel with an inner diameter of 23 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Workpiece processing up to the right sizes performed on lathe. The back of the nozzle is also rolled on a lathe using a pressed bar.

For the gas pipeline-handle, a duralumin rod with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 160 mm was used. A through hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled in it. With absence special tool This operation was performed in two steps different parties. Further, one of the ends of the rod is machined to fit the existing diameter of the hose. The textolite handle is fixed with EDP glue. Threaded connection the rod with the tap is sealed with FUM tape (sealant).

The tip of the soldering iron is made of a copper bar with a section of 20x20 mm. A rod with a diameter of 9 mm from the inlet valve of the MTZ engine was used as a rod. Connection with a sting - threaded M8 with subsequent caulking. (It makes sense to make several at once various forms soldering iron tip depending on the purpose.)

Fig.2. Gas soldering iron:
1 - sting; 2 - stock.

Since the working pressure of the standard (domestic) gas reducer is not enough for normal operation of the burner, then an adjustable gearbox is used. To prevent liquid gas from entering the burner channels, the cylinder is only in a vertical position.

It should be noted that this device no more dangerous than normal blowtorch, and when working with it, you should observe general rules fire safety, including monitoring the tightness of the gas pipeline connections.

The burner is ignited with a barely open tap. The faucet regulates the strength of the flame and, consequently, the degree of heating of the soldering iron tip. To ensure complete combustion of the gas-air mixture, the distance from the nozzle to the heated surface of the soldering iron is at least 15 mm.

Y. Shorets, Novoselki village, Vitebsk region

A soldering iron is an indispensable device for radio amateurs and home craftsmen. Often there is a need to solder away from a 220 V electrical outlet and use, for example, a 12-volt car battery. When soldering subminiature devices, mini soldering irons with special characteristics are needed. In this regard, many are wondering how to make a soldering iron with their own hands, getting a convenient device and saving money at the same time.

Soldering iron for SMD

SMD devices are microcircuits in mobile phones, laptops or tablets. The installation of circuit elements is carried out on a site with contacts, where there is a thermal barrier to prevent the spread of heat along the tracks.

Soldering iron requirements for SMD:

Power should not be more than 10 W;
The temperature of the soldering iron should not be more than that which the microcircuit element can withstand;
If the tip is too cold, then a long soldering procedure can worsen the part due to the long heat exposure time;
It is necessary to achieve a temperature of the tip about 40 ° C higher than the temperature at which the solder melts. Here the main obstacle is the inertia of the soldering iron.

Sting material

The best tip is nickel-plated copper, with additives. This is the most expensive material and it is problematic to find it for making a soldering iron with your own hands.

A tip made of bronze or brass is not suitable for soldering. SMD boards because it has a high thermal inertia.

A copper sting also has disadvantages: a short service life due to burning, but it can simply be changed. But copper has a high thermal conductivity, and better material for work with miniature boards no.

You can make a mini soldering iron with your own hands from the MLT-0.5 resistor. Its tube is thin enough and will not interfere with heating the sting.

What needs to be prepared:

case from simple ballpoint pen;
MLT-0.5 with a resistance of 5 to 10 ohms;
a piece of textolite 1-3 cm;
steel wire 0.8 mm;
copper wire 1 mm.

Manufacturing steps

Remove paint from resistor sharp object. If it is cleaned poorly, connect to a power source for warming up;

Cut off the lead from one end of the resistor and drill a hole into which the segment is inserted copper wire- the future tip of the soldering iron. Straighten the second conclusion and leave it, it will serve as one current conductor;

Important! The sting should enter the hole in the ceramic body, but not touch the walls of the side metal cup. To do this, the hole in the cup should be slightly wider than in the body. By the way, a case with holes exists only for domestic resistors.

On the surface of the same metal cup, a cut is made for laying the second conductor;
The second conductor is made of steel wire, which is bent so that an open ring is formed in the middle, which fits tightly into the cut made;

In the upper part of the body of a ballpoint pen or some other suitable hollow plastic rod, a board made of double-sided textolite should be installed, which is given the necessary shape;
A steel wire ring is put on the cup and soldered to ensure good contact. This negative conductor still serves as a fastening element;
Conductors are soldered to the upper part of the PCB board on both sides, and conductors are threaded to the lower part, which are threaded into a plastic tube (handle body);
Before you put the sting, a tiny piece of mica must be placed inside so that the copper does not come into contact with the resistor cup located at the other end. The sting can be replaced periodically.

For the supply wire, it is good to take MGTF. Its insulation withstands accidental contact with the heating element. Soldering with such a home-made tool is performed with ordinary solder and flux. A homemade soldering iron is powered by a PSU. It is necessary to get 7-10 V at the output, depending on the resistance of the resistor. It's a good idea to use a PSU where you can adjust the voltage.

Resistor soldering iron

The wire resistor is an existing nichrome heater. It is able to heat up to 250°C when the power is dissipated into the surrounding space. If you install a tip that will remove heat, the resistor can withstand a double power overload for a long time. The tip will heat up to 300°C. You can also increase the heating by creating a threefold overload, but then homemade soldering iron it is necessary to periodically (after 1.5 hours) turn off.

When calculating the soldering iron, the resistance and power of the resistor are taken into account. The resistor must be taken of the PEV type, old, but still being produced. They are covered with vitreous enamel, withstand repeated overheating, they can only darken.

Important! Resistors of type C5-35V, which cannot be used, are painted on all sides. The paint is not completely removed. When a device made from them is heated, the paint melts, the sting can stick forever, without the possibility of replacement.

From the PEV-10 resistor, you can design a soldering iron with a power of 30-40 watts. At the same time, if powered from a 12-volt source, the resistance should be approximately 5 ohms. If the device will operate from a 220 V network, it is necessary to use PEV-20 with a significantly higher resistance. The design of such a soldering iron is similar in principle, but differs in execution.

How to make a mini soldering iron from a resistor powered by a 12-volt voltage source can be seen in the example:

It is necessary to prepare the design of the sting so that it is closely inserted into the ceramic case. A copper rod is taken with a diameter approximately corresponding to the size of the hole in the case, and drilled from two sides: under the sting, which will be a slightly smaller rod, and under the bolt for fasteners. In both holes it is necessary to cut the thread, as well as on the surface of the sting;

A cut is made on a larger rod, where a ring is put on to fix the entire structure;
Now you need to solder the electrical cord to the terminals of the resistor and make a convenient handle from insulating material. To protect and strengthen the copper terminals of the resistor, metal clips can be attached to them from above.

Important! The operating current of the manufactured mini soldering iron should not be higher than 1 A.

These are the two most simple designs soldering iron. Experienced home craftsmen can complicate them without using a resistor, but by making a heating element on one's own.

(with a coupon. well, don't forget about the points)
What is a gas soldering iron and why is it needed, perhaps it makes no sense to explain. Where it is not possible to connect a conventional soldering iron to the network, the use of this particular device will be fully justified.
I had two similar soldering irons. And if this one left a pleasant impression, having worked for several years in order to get lost somewhere, then here's a miserable (sorted out: constructive and monstrous material) thing, a couple of which I bought for myself and my father, irrevocably broke down almost at the first start. I hope this caveat helps someone who is chasing cheapness.

There was already a good Vitrum, who got the same set. I will add my impressions to it, and most importantly - a discount coupon. With it, and even with points (a standard mechanism for registering and signing up for a newsletter), the price of a tomtop will be the lowest of the others.

For me personally, there is not so much benefit from this set - I make all sorts of infrequent soldering within the apartment conventional soldering irons. But I am fascinated by the click-click-fire process itself, the joy of which is rooted in childhood. There are all sorts of “ignition”, burning out with a magnifying glass, smelting lead over a fire and the main fun of a couple of bolts, rope and match sulfur.

I am sure that many of the readers remember what joy all these simple amusements caused. And here is this quiet “shhhhhhhh”, with which it comes out as a play, red flicker, red-hot flicker of the catalyst - all this awakens those very forgotten feelings.

Okay, now the content part.

DECLARED CHARACTERISTICS:

Material: Plastic
Filling Capacity: 26ml
Flame Temperature: 1300°C
Solder Iron Temperature: 450°C
Hot Blast Temperature: 500°C
Use Time: 30-40 Minutes
Item Weight: 401g / (with case)
Item Size: 2.9*21cm/
Case Size: 24*13*5cm
Package Size: 27.5*13*5.5cm/
Package Weight: 456g

PACKAGE

Quite decent. True, she could not bear the journey without damage, she overstrained herself a little. Perhaps what to give will not be ashamed.

As for the box itself, it is quite a normal quality and closes conveniently.

Inside pretty much all sorts of nozzles:

The soldering iron itself from different angles. Can be used as stand alone or built in. in a separate one there is a place for a piece of skin to clean the sting.

The flame regulator will not give a special increase in temperature and probably affects the flow rate. Therefore, 1-2 divisions is enough. Personally, I had enough units to quickly heat the nozzle to a temperature that melts the solder.

Piezo ignition.

The handle is rubberized, the connector is normal. I used a gas bottle for lighters, there were no special problems.

Vitrum mentioned that the protective cap does not hold. In my sample, it snaps tightly, right now you even need to press.

dismemberment

That's all about appearance.

Yes, solder without flux. Could fork out, the difference is a penny.

SOLDERING IRON IN WORK.

I have no way to measure the temperature, the IR thermometer stubbornly shows something like 60 degrees.
I will copy the data from the Vitrum review, I don’t think that they will differ from mine, the design is the same.

Burning temperature of an open flame - 1300 ° С
Hot air temperature with nozzle - 400°С
Temperature soldering iron tip- 350 °С
Shila temperature - 200 ° С
The temperature of the knife for plastic - 300 ° C

How does a soldering iron work? extremely simple - I move the slider to some number, click the piezo ignition forward, hold it like that for a couple of seconds and release it. Why do I hold on for a couple of seconds? In this position, the ignited gas goes with maximum force, quickly heating catalyst. And this couple of seconds is enough for it to glow red. In the future, after the piezo ignition button has returned, the gas will exit according to the selected division.

There is important clarification, which I missed - I was too lazy to read the instructions. DO NOT allow an open flame to go through the catalyst for a long time. this significantly shortens the life of the catalyst. those. no need to repeat that. which is in the photo below. And, judging by what is written on the instructions, this may melt the plastic parts of the soldering iron

In fact, there is no open flame, it turns out a kind of analogue of a hot air gun.

If you need an open flame, then you can simply twist the nozzle with a catalyst, get what you need.

Well, according to my impressions:
The soldering iron quite quickly, in a matter of seconds and per unit, fires up the nozzle to the melting temperature of the solder. There are quite a lot of nozzles and you can choose one exactly for your needs. Personally, I sometimes have to solder some small garbage, and the standard wide sting of the usual electric soldering iron here very inconvenient, whether it's like this one. Truth, back side its small diameter - the sting bends. Well, as it bent, so it unbent. I also saw crowbars bent at the side of the wheels.

During operation, nothing heats up, it is grippy in the hand, there is no feeling of uncomfortable excess in dimensions.

It would be more useful to me as a portable hot air gun: I often use hot melt adhesive. And I glued back the unstuck things with a regular hair dryer. That's just the length of it is often not enough. A small butane lighter overheats quickly.

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS

Till The soldering iron works and works exactly as it should. To put it bluntly, another review had negative comments about durability. This definitely needs to be taken into account.

I will give this soldering iron to my father, he often has to solder something on the street or inside the bus, where the wires are not at all a joy. He is interested in the prospect of repairing the radiator. If in this case he seems to be on the good side, I will add to the review. so far, fortunately, all the radiators are intact.

In general, everything would be fine - if not for comments on the previous review. I think that from a couple of our reviews it will be possible to make a clear impression: whether a thing is needed or not.

And, nevertheless, it is worth taking into account the price, which, with coupon points, will become the lowest on the market.
WELDKIT5: $21.99

Z.s. a year has passed since the last review, if anyone can add their comments to mine, I would be grateful.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I plan to buy +31 Add to favorites Liked the review +50 +69

In the practice of motorists, one often has to deal with the need for soldering or welding. A few years ago, I accidentally saw a gasoline-powered soldering iron made in the GDR used for these purposes, and then the idea came up to make a similar one, but running on gas. The result exceeded all expectations - and now the gas soldering iron takes its rightful place in my toolbox. Its operation during the repair of bodies, radiators, lugs of large-section copper cables confirmed the operability of the structure. The main advantages over the traditional "hammer" and blowtorch are: the possibility of continuous soldering, maintaining the desired temperature, which is important when performing a large amount of work, as well as the ability to control the degree of heating.

For the manufacture of a soldering iron, a cork-type crane PPB-1, used in the oil pipeline of a GAZ-53 car, was needed. Its refinement consisted in turning the front part up to 12 mm and threading M12x1.5 mm. A jet with a hole with a diameter of 0.8 mm is made of brass and pressed into the faucet body. It should be noted that the holes in different taps differ by 0.1 mm in one direction or another. Therefore, the adjustment of the landing surface of the jet was carried out individually.

The material for the nozzle was a piece of stainless steel pipe with an inner diameter of 23 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Processing of the workpiece to the desired dimensions is performed on a lathe. The back of the nozzle is also rolled on a lathe using a pressed bar.

For the gas pipeline-handle, a duralumin rod with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 160 mm was used. A through hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled in it. In the absence of a special tool, this operation was performed in two steps from different sides. Further, one of the ends of the rod is machined to fit the existing diameter of the hose. The textolite handle is fixed with EDP glue. The threaded connection of the rod with the tap is sealed with FUM tape (sealant).

The tip of the soldering iron is made of a copper bar with a section of 20 × 20 mm. A rod with a diameter of 9 mm from the inlet valve of the MTZ engine was used as a rod. Connection with a sting - threaded M8 with subsequent caulking. (It makes sense to make several different shapes of the soldering iron tip at once, depending on the purpose.)

1,2 soldering iron holders; 3 - soldering iron rod lock; 4-nozzle body; 5 - jet; 6 - crane PPB-1; 7- handle; 8 - gas pipeline.

1 - sting; 2 - stock.

Since the working pressure of a standard (household) gas reducer is not enough for the normal operation of the burner, an adjustable reducer is used. To prevent liquid gas from entering the burner channels, the cylinder is only in a vertical position.

It should be noted that this device is not more dangerous than a conventional blowtorch, and when working with it, you should follow the general fire safety rules, including monitoring the tightness of the gas pipeline connections.

Y.SHORETS,

Novoselki village, Vitebsk region

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