How to make a kitchen knife. Homemade knife with your own hands. Polishing a knife blade

One user described his first experience in creating kitchen knife.

I got tired of constantly sharpening my Brazilian stainless steel knives while cooking, and I caught fire under New Year, arrange a gift for yourself in the form good knife. I got into tyrnets to look for where I could buy one, found a couple of offers, more or less, but still not quite right. Either the shape or the dimensions did not quite correspond to my wishes. Even the price did not play a special role, in the region of 10 k I could spend it, then a gift to my beloved. Yes, and my wife said, you need, look and order, I don’t mind at all. There was an option to order, with its own sizes and shapes. But at work, two of my colleagues began to master this craft in the same way, though they buy ready-made blades, and there they already conjure with handles, and their blades are too small for me at all. But they advised me one steel, x12mf, they said look for it, strong, tough. And rushed.
Having studied the properties of this steel, having read many articles and reviews, it was decided to look for a knife from it. And when I came across the video

so generally an awl in the ass began to play. And then my colleagues bring a piece of such steel. Rolling true. But she. Having estimated the state of my arsenal of tools, the prices of the original parts, and the curvature of my hands, I decided that I would make myself a knife, the one that I needed.

It was not always possible to take a picture of all the stages, but for the most part, all processes are displayed. For the pictures, too, do not kick too much. All in different places, with different lighting and in different weather. The piece was declared as 4mm thick, 40 wide, but I took 35 cm in length, somewhere 20-22 cm for the blade, and 12-13 for the handle, but with a width of the jamb it turned out to be only 35 mm, but oh well. Then we will make a knife with a wide blade, in the summer, when it will be possible to unforge steel))) We draw either by hand or on a computer, the contours of our future knife and cut out of paper like a pattern. We apply steel to the canvas, and paint over everything that needs to be removed from the canvas with a black marker. We go to the machine and fuck. Here is the finished cutting edge. Here I have already roughly outlined the boundaries of the slopes, and began to draw them out slowly.

With the help of such a not tricky device, I made descents. This is the hardest and longest part. I melted 2 buckets of snow))) you need to cool the metal, otherwise we will overheat.

After the painful manufacture of descents, we draw the upper boundaries of the knife, that is, butt.

And we get something that looks like a knife. And with the help of that bar, very rough, we bring the descents and bring cutting edge to black. Well, I walked a bit with the skin, see how it turns out.

The next step was preparing the handle. I asked the guys for a piece of red bourgeois walnut, not for free, of course. Here it is already cut into 3 parts. I thought for a long time what kind of pen to make, I wanted a cupronickel tip, but I couldn’t find a solid piece of cupronickel, only the casting was bad, but somehow it was not very suitable for my purposes. And I decided to make it purely from wood, but from 3 pieces, like a guard and a wooden handle. Yes, and holes are easier to make in small pieces. And from the blank of the knife we remove everything superfluous with a grinder and emery. In parallel, I also sanded the blade a little. It turned out crumpled, I did it in the evenings and at nights. Whatever he had time for, he did.

We mark the pieces of wood, and drill and clean the holes to put on the shank. I didn’t make it out of halves, I don’t like rivets, extra bridges, slack handles. Yes and in cold weather, will be burned by frost on the hand.

There are no photos of the device, I will describe it this way, a skin is glued to a flat board on a 2-sided adhesive tape, and with it we adjust our pieces of wood to each other so that there are no gaps between them. So dressing and taking off every time on the shank. and remove these gaps.

After all the dances with a tambourine, we wrap the blade with electrical tape completely so that the glue does not get in, dilute the epoxy according to the instructions and proceed.

We collect our future handle together with a knife. I tied it with a rope, tightening it with the help of improvised means, there are no pictures ((But if you find a large clamp, then it will be easier for you.

And after a day, intended for the glue to harden, we begin to process the handle. I sawed off everything superfluous from the top of the handle with a small margin for further processing. Marked the axis of symmetry and from it already the future edges of the handle. And he began to saw off everything superfluous.

The tree is dense, it is sawn with a hacksaw for a long time, but the main thing is sawn)) and quite evenly.

Having sawed off everything superfluous on the sides, we mark the contours of the future handle. And saw off everything from the bottom.

we leave a little for further processing, in this case it is better not to finish it than to cut it.

Thanks to my labor teacher for not drinking but teaching us, and taught us how to deal with different files))) We grind everything further with rough and not very files.

We round the edges of the handle, already with small files, and with a rough sandpaper. It’s good that my wife was already asleep and didn’t see a layer of sawdust))) but I lined everything with newspapers. and then wiped the floor with a wet cloth)) cleanliness is the key to success.

Well, then we skin, skin and skin again, as the great bequeathed. Gradually reducing the grain of the skin. Here is an intermediate step next to my previous kitchen love, Brazilian stainless steel.

We skin both the handle and the blade, leveling all surfaces. Sanded in any free time, and at work and at home.

Well, then we take a piece of an old felt boot and make such a device: a bolt, a large washer, a felt circle, a large washer, a nut. You can lock it with one more nut. By the way, taking a circle of skins and putting on outside felt, you can polish the product)))

After all the polishing, we apply goy paste on the felt disk, and grind the blade, I was too lazy to bring it to the mirror, and I don’t really need this mirror. Yes, and there was no drill at hand, only a screwdriver, and it does not give such high revolutions necessary for better removal.

And after the blade, we take another clean disk, and with it we clean the whole tree from dust and chips. According to the correct course, at first it was necessary to bring the blade completely to a shine. And then to deal with the pen, but I repeat, I was limited in time different conditions and did everything at once. Having studied a bunch of impregnations, I decided to impregnate in the ancient way, albeit a long one, but reliable. I bought a couple of bottles of artistic linseed oil. Since the handle is quite large and long, I had to buy a jar of some filth. We take a small saucepan, gauze or a rag on the bottom, an opened jar on a rag. Pour oil into the jar, water into the pan, do not confuse.

We heat the oil to 60-70 degrees, no more, epoxy does not really like high temperatures, again we wrap the blade a little with electrical tape so as not to stain it, and lower our handle into it. And we observe how small air bubbles stand out from the tree. When the bubbles stop, take it out and wipe it with a napkin. This procedure took me about an hour, with several heatings of the oil.

Lay the knife down on the windowsill Sun rays, we need ultraviolet light to polymerize the oil. But I wiped it a couple of times with a napkin with oil until the oil stopped absorbing at all. Do not forget to turn it over on the windowsill every day so that the oil polymerizes on all sides. And in the evenings we sharpen. Here I will not describe everything in detail, one more topic is enough, theories of knife sharpening. Yes, and I haven’t quite mastered it yet)) I’m still learning.

In the meantime, the oil dries, and the blade is sharpened, we will make a camping option out of our chef, we will make a sheath for it. I often go out into the countryside, and cook there, and I have to take my Brazilian stainless steel knives, twisting them around, and putting them neatly in my backpack so that I don’t hurt my hand if I need to get something, and I don’t pierce the backpack with a point. In general, hemorrhoids are still the same. And I decided, since the width of the blade is not ideal for me, then we will make a camping version out of it, I will make another one for the house. True, my wife will probably shoot me)) Well, that's another question. Again we turn to our colleagues, and take from them another small piece of wood. I decided to make everything from one tree. and handle and scabbard. Again, we figure out on a piece of paper how it will look, and what pieces it will consist of. We mark the bar, and cut into pieces. By this time I had rented from my brother grinder, which grinds the skin. And with this miracle device we bring the joints of the trees according to the plan into a more or less decent condition. That is, to fit exactly. No big gaps. Here at the next stage, my patience snapped. We drill a hole under the knife in each piece, I fiddled with it for a very long time, and the desire to finish everything as soon as possible was already great, and because of this, I hastily glued these pieces at night without fitting the joints well. As a result, in one place a jamb surfaced later. But certainly not critical. Yes, and I glued it on Friday night, but there was a desire to completely process the rest for the exhaust. And you still have to wait for days. and did not postpone and pasted.

I glued it with reinforcement, by the way, so that under transverse loads, it would not fall apart in the places of gluing. Reinforced with thin metal studs. 2 studs in each joint. Well, after the glue dries, we go to the garage, take a miracle grinder, and remove all unnecessary with its help. And we return to felt devices, take different skins for reduction and grind them to the maximum smoothness, and then clean them with clean felt. I decided to impregnate the scabbard in a cold way. True, he poured hot inside, there were particles of wax inside, and it was necessary to melt them, and soaked the outer part for a week, applying a small layer every day. In the first impregnation, of course, I applied layers for an hour until it ceased to be absorbed. Well, to their knife. On the windowsill. Turning constantly.

After the knife and sheath have dried out, and the oil has polymerized, albeit not completely, then more will come. Preparing composition for finishing. We take beeswax and our linseed oil in proportions somewhere around 2 parts of oil and 1 part of wax, but by eye, I might not have stood it evenly, but after reading the cooking recipes before that, I realized that there are no exact proportions, you want 1/3 you want 1/4, but you want pure wax process. There was an opportunity to process it with carnauba wax, but I decided to make it from our bee wax. In a water bath, melt the wax in the oil until smooth.

I strained through cheesecloth to get rid of dead bee parts. Wax is natural, with all parts of the honeycomb, and the smell of honey)).

My task was a knife with which you can cut and butcher meat, and so that it retains its sharpness after that. I love tomatoes meat dishes, and it is bad to cut them with a blunt knife. I can say that the task is carried out with a bang. Brazilians can't do that. The knife, of course, turned out to be not perfect, there are a couple of jambs on the slopes, a couple of jambs on the sheath, but all these jambs are mostly aesthetic nitpicking, and on practical use do not affect in any way. And I think it's forgivable for the first time)) Well, another small remark: the budget. a piece of steel - 300 rubles. wood for the handle and scabbard - 500 rubles (of course, a board of such a tree costs 5 rubles, but it is 2 meters, and I used 15-20 cm from the board in total) skin - about 500 rubles. linseed oil - 200 rubles. 1500 are further purchases for the knife, which remained at my disposal for the rest of my life, so it is difficult to consider them as the cost of the knife. files, needle files, and all sorts of little things about 1k ruble ordinary sharpening bars - 150 rubles diamond bar 1.5 k. vise small 300 rubles total about 4.5 rubles. Of course, it was possible to find a ready-made knife at such a cost, but to be left without such nishtyaks as a diamond bar. which then would have to buy anyway. Everyone, you can drink.

DIY kitchen knife at home. How to make a kitchen knife with your own hands at home. A kitchen knife is the main tool of a professional chef. It must be strong, sharp and reliable. Real, branded chef's knives are quite expensive, their cost can start from $200 to $3000 or more. We'll try to make a knife High Quality, by investing only $ 10, and common hand tools will be used for the job.

Making each such knife requires a lot of effort, so you will need a lot of patience. Author, working hand tools, for each knife spends about 20 hours of time.

Of course, no one forbids the use of power tools, so the work process will be faster and easier.

Materials and tools.
List of materials:
- blank from high carbon steel(such steel can be hardened);
- wooden block or dostochki (for the manufacture of handles);
- brass rods (or ordinary nails for making pins).

List of tools:
- a hammer;
- hacksaw for metal;
- files for wood and metal;
- marker, paper;
- epoxy adhesive;
- pliers;
- gloves;
- sandpaper;
- wood impregnation oil.

Knife making process:
Step one. Choosing the right steel
Only one thing affects the quality of a knife - the steel used. In order for the blade not to dull for a long time, and the blade to be as thin as possible and cut everything like a blade, the steel must have a high carbon content. The more it is, the stronger the steel will become. Due to the large amount of carbon, steel can be hardened, it is carbon that gives rigidity to the metal during hardening.

Such steel is usually used in tools, these are files, spanners and other. It is also commonly used in springs, for example, you can use an old car spring. The author used steel 01 for such purposes, as well as 1084. Steel 1095 also gained quite wide popularity. In principle, you can always buy a finished workpiece from the desired steel.

Step two. Cut out a rough profile
First of all, decide on the shape of the knife. You can take a finished profile from already made knives. You can change the existing profile to your taste. We draw it on the workpiece, and then cut it out with a hacksaw for metal, holding it in a vise. If there is a grinder, great, you can cut the profile with it.

There is one more nuance here, if your workpiece is hardened, then it will not be possible to cut it with a hacksaw. To work with hand tools, you will need to release the metal. Heat it to red, for example, in good coals, and then let it cool in the open air. After that, the metal should become soft. If this does not happen, then the steel was poorly heated.
In order not to damage the workpiece with the steel lips of the vise, clamp it between two planks or blocks.

Step three. We form bevels
Bevels - this is the angle of sharpening, the wider the bevel, the smoother and thinner the blade will be, as a result, the knife will cut better. First, mark the bevel lines on the blade on both sides, and then draw a central line along the blade, as the author did. To draw the center line, you will need a drill with the same diameter as the thickness of the blade.

Now we take a file and evenly remove the metal. This is not done quickly with a file, but you have practically no chance of spoiling the workpiece, when compared with a grinder. Sew one end first, then the other. After a coarse-grained file, at the end of the work, take a fine one to remove deep scratches.

Step four. Blade surface grinding
Now you can start grinding the workpiece. The task will be to make the surface absolutely smooth and even, to remove various defects after rough treatment. First we use a rough sandpaper and then smaller and smaller. At the end, the paper grain should be 1200 units. If desired, after grinding, you can polish the metal, but for now it is pointless to do this, since hardening is still waiting for us, after which the metal will have to be polished again.

Step five. Drilling holes
The handle is fastened with two pins, the author uses rivets as them, they are large and look spectacular. We drill holes for the selected pins desired diameter. At a minimum, you will need to make two holes, the rest are optional. Drill carefully, to be sure, clamp the workpiece in a vise. The steel is quite thick, so you can easily break the drill.

Step six. Hardening and tempering
Steel needs to be hardened, so it will become hard, and the knife will keep its sharpness for a long time. For these purposes, you can assemble the simplest furnace, powered by gas burner. In the simplest case, we take coals, inflate household hair dryer or other air source. Steel must be heated to a bright red color, however, each type of steel has its own color indication. To check the desired temperature, find permanent magnet. If the steel is properly heated, the permanent magnet will not be attracted to it. The workpiece must be evenly heated along its entire length.

Next, we cool the metal in oil, it is preferable to use vegetable oil. A motor one is also suitable, but it is not recommended to use mining, as it contains a lot of contaminants, which can damage the top layer of metal.

When the metal has completely cooled, handle it very carefully, as the steel is now very brittle. Metal release will allow the knife to be elastic. Thanks to this procedure, we soften the steel a little, and it acquires spring properties. For this procedure, you will need an oven, it is important for you to know the temperature, it should be in the range of 200-230 ° C. We place the workpiece in the oven for an hour and a half, and let it cool together with the oven, do not open the door. Everything, after that you will receive a workpiece of excellent quality.

Step seven. Sharpening and polishing
After quenching, the steel will have a lot of impurities, such as scale, burnt oil, and so on. This whole thing has to be cleaned up. We take fine sandpaper, moisten it in WD-40 or ordinary water and grind the surface. When you clean the metal, you can polish it. You can use GOI paste and other substances.

After polishing, sharpen the blade. This can be done with very fine sandpaper, you can use whetstones, and Japanese is best. water stone, it comes in different grain sizes. Moisten the grinding stone with water, this allows it to self-clean and it sharpens metal well. quality knife should cut paper easily.

Step eight. Pen
Before finishing the handle with wood, seal the blade masking tape, wrap with electrical tape or secure in another way so as not to cut yourself. The pads on the handle are made of wooden boards or a bar, which is sawn into two halves. Cut pieces to the right sizes, drill holes and then assemble on pins. After making sure that everything is assembled correctly, glue the blanks with epoxy glue and clamp the handle with a clamp until it dries completely.

When the glue dries, we take a file on a tree and form a handle profile, this is not difficult. It is easier to carry out such work on a grinder with a coarse-grained stone. Well, then we take sandpaper and make the handle absolutely smooth. You can polish it if you wish.

At the end, we use impregnations for wood, otherwise it will instantly crack from water. Linseed oil will come to the rescue. Oil can be mixed with beeswax by heating them in a water bath. The resulting "ointment" is applied to the tree and allowed to soak. Finally, polish the surface.

As a result, we have an excellent kitchen knife that you can envy!

Knives are currently popular not only in the kitchen, but also among people who have connected their lives with extreme outdoor activities - these are: fishing, hunting, tourism, etc.

On the market in modern time there are various knives: Variable models, different sizes and designs. But none of them can replace a knife that is made by hand.

How to make a knife with your own hands is often written on the Internet, and you should try to make them.

Knives: types and main properties

On the photos of the knife on the Internet, you can see that each product is a creative element created from various mechanisms.

There is a large classification of knives depending on their functionality: combat, tourist, folding (for example, a butterfly), knives designed for hunting, multi-tools, bivouac knives, as well as ordinary kitchen knives.

Kitchen knives are bought ready-made, but knives intended for hunting or for tourism can be easily made at home on your own.

There are also such knives as survival knives, the main task of which is to help with existence in conditions wildlife. This option is relevant for tourists and hunters.

The blade of such a knife is usually no more than 12 cm. This length is sufficient for cutting wood, processing game, cleaning fish, or other similar actions. The small dimensions make it easy to transport such a knife.

In the manufacture of such a knife, great attention should be paid to the material intended to create the blade. Steel is often preferred.

Steps to create a knife

To obtain positive result during the manufacture of the knife, you must first make an outline drawing of the knife. In this case, you can know in advance what exactly you want to achieve in the end.

Instructions on how to make a knife at home includes a number of rules.

Making a knife step by step

Cut out the blank for the future knife. Relying on finished drawing, cut out the shape for the knife.

You will need a knife sharpener. With its help, bring the base to the desired shape. And after that, an already understandable blank will be in the hands, where you can distinguish the places of the handle and blade.

Rough sharpening of knives. At this stage, you clearly need to know what your future knife is intended for. If it is made for hunting, fishing or hiking, then it is better to give preference to the blade type of sharpening.

And, if the knife is created to function in the kitchen or in the garden, then a razor type will do.

Do not expect perfect sharpening from this stage, because this is just a draft, intended to determine the future shape.

If the blade is pre-prepared, then you can start working with the handle. The handle is made using the most various materials- these are: wood, organic glass, bones, thick types of leather, etc.

Note!

Having cut out the workpiece to create the handle, you should check whether it fits comfortably in your hand, as well as its proportionality with respect to the blade. The handle for the knife is fixed using the riveting method.

The shape for the foot handle is attached using a grinding machine.

The knife is ground and polished on the basis of sandpaper.

The final sharpening of the blade is done after sharpening on a sharpener, also using sandpaper.

At the end, the finished knife is polished with velvet or polish.

Note!

As you can see, the process of making a knife with your own hands is not that difficult, so everyone can try their hand at this area.

You can also set the necessary and desired design for the future knife. Pay special attention to the handle during the design process.

knife design

Since it is by the handle of the knife that the rest can then judge your creative thinking and status.

Some write their names on the handles of the knife, draw certain patterns and sketches in the form of tattoos.

The simplest knife can be built in an emergency in the forest, the main thing is to find the materials necessary to create it.

Note!

It is worth finding only the cutting part for the knife, and then you should insert it only into the handle, which will be in the form of a piece of wood, ropes or leather.

DIY knife photo

In this article we will talk about making a homemade knife. In the article How to make a knife with your own hands, it was about making a knife using forging, this time the manufacturing process is much simpler, only metal and woodworking are used. And it can be done with the help of an ordinary file, however, if you have access to grinder or a grinder, the manufacturing process develops much faster.

Do not look at the fact that in the article we are talking about making a homemade chef's knife, using this technology you can easily make a homemade scout knife, a classic criminal knife or, say, a Rimbaud knife. Just be aware! The manufacture of knives can be classified as the manufacture of edged weapons and punished by an article of the criminal code!

I'm tired of constantly sharpening my Brazilian stainless steel knives while cooking, and I caught fire on New Year's Eve, to arrange a gift for myself in the form of a good knife. I got into tyrnets to look for where I could buy one, found a couple of offers, more or less, but still not quite right. Either the shape or the dimensions did not quite correspond to my wishes. Even the price did not play a special role, in the region of 10 k I could spend it, then a gift to my beloved. Yes, and my wife said, you need, look and order, I don’t mind at all. There was an option to order, with its own sizes and shapes. But at work, two of my colleagues began to master this craft in the same way, though they buy ready-made blades, and there they already conjure with handles, and their blades are too small for me at all. But they advised me one steel, x12mf, they said look for it, strong, tough. And rushed.
Having studied the properties of this steel, having read many articles and reviews, it was decided to look for a knife from it. And when I came across the video...

It was not always possible to take a picture of all the stages, but for the most part, all processes are displayed. For the pictures, too, do not kick too much. All in different places, with different lighting and in different weather. The piece was declared as 4 mm thick, 40 wide, but took 35 cm in length, somewhere 20-22 cm for the blade, and 12-13 for the handle, but with a width of the jamb it turned out to be only 35 mm, but oh well. Then we will make a knife with a wide blade, in the summer, when it will be possible to unforge steel))) We draw either by hand or on a computer, the contours of our future knife and cut out of paper like a pattern. We apply steel to the canvas, and paint over everything that needs to be removed from the canvas with a black marker. We go to the machine and fuck. Here is the finished cutting edge. Here I have already roughly outlined the boundaries of the slopes, and began to draw them out slowly.

With the help of such a not tricky device, I made descents. This is the hardest and longest part. I melted 2 buckets of snow))) you need to cool the metal, otherwise we will overheat.

After the painful manufacture of descents, we draw the upper boundaries of the knife, that is, butt.

And we get something that looks like a knife. And with the help of that bar, very rough, we bring the descents and bring the cutting edge to the draft. Well, I walked a bit with the skin, see how it turns out.

The next step was preparing the handle. I asked the guys for a piece of red bourgeois walnut, not for free, of course. Here it is already cut into 3 parts. I thought for a long time what kind of pen to make, I wanted a cupronickel tip, but I couldn’t find a solid piece of cupronickel, only the casting was thin, but somehow it was not very suitable for my purposes. And I decided to make it purely from wood, but from 3 pieces, like a guard and a wooden handle. Yes, and holes are easier to make in small pieces. And from the blank of the knife we remove everything superfluous with a grinder and emery. In parallel, I also sanded the blade a little. It turned out crumpled, I did it in the evenings and at nights. Whatever he had time for, he did.

We mark the pieces of wood, and drill and clean the holes to put on the shank. I didn’t make it out of halves, I don’t like rivets, extra bridges, slack handles. Yes, and in cold weather, they will burn the hand with frost.

After all the dances with a tambourine, we wrap the blade with electrical tape completely so that the glue does not get in, dilute the epoxy according to the instructions and proceed.

The tree is dense, it is sawn with a hacksaw for a long time, but the main thing is sawn)) and quite evenly.

Having sawed off everything superfluous on the sides, we mark the contours of the future handle. And saw off everything from the bottom.

We leave a little for further processing, in this case it is better not to finish it than to cut it.

Thanks to my labor teacher for not drinking but teaching us, and taught us how to deal with different files))) We grind everything further with rough and not very files.

We skin both the handle and the blade, leveling all surfaces. Sanded in any free time, and at work and at home.

And after the blade, we take another clean disk, and with it we clean the whole tree from dust and chips. According to the correct course, at first it was necessary to bring the blade completely to a shine. And then to deal with the pen, but I repeat, I was limited in time by different conditions, and did everything at once. Having studied a bunch of impregnations, I decided to impregnate in the ancient way, albeit a long one, but reliable. I bought a couple of bottles of artistic linseed oil. Since the handle is quite large and long, I had to buy a jar of some filth. We take a small saucepan, gauze or a rag on the bottom, an opened jar on a rag. Pour oil into the jar, water into the pan, do not confuse.

We heat the oil to 60-70 degrees, no more, epoxy does not like high temperatures very much, again wrap the blade a little with electrical tape so as not to stain it, and lower our handle into it. And we observe how small air bubbles stand out from the tree. When the bubbles stop, take it out and wipe it with a napkin. This procedure took me about an hour, with several heatings of the oil.

We put the knife on the windowsill under the sun's rays, we need ultraviolet light to polymerize the oil. But I wiped it a couple of times with a napkin with oil until the oil stopped absorbing at all. Do not forget to turn it over on the windowsill every day so that the oil polymerizes on all sides. And in the evenings we sharpen. Here I will not describe everything in detail, one more topic is enough, theories of knife sharpening. Yes, and I haven’t quite mastered it yet)) I’m still learning.

In the meantime, the oil dries, and the blade is sharpened, we will make a camping option out of our chef, we will make a sheath for it. I often go out into the countryside, and cook there, and I have to take my Brazilian stainless steel knives, twisting them around, and putting them neatly in my backpack so that I don’t hurt my hand if I need to get something, and I don’t pierce the backpack with a point. In general, hemorrhoids are still the same. And I decided, since the width of the blade is not ideal for me, then we will make a camping version out of it, I will make another one for the house. True, my wife will probably shoot me)) Well, that's another question. Again we turn to our colleagues, and take from them another small piece of wood. I decided to make everything from one tree. and handle and scabbard. Again, we figure out on a piece of paper how it will look, and what pieces it will consist of. We mark the bar, and cut into pieces. By this time, I rented a grinding machine from my brother, which grinds with sandpaper. And with this miracle device we bring the joints of the trees according to the plan into a more or less decent condition. That is, to fit exactly. No big gaps. Here at the next stage, my patience snapped. We drill a hole under the knife in each piece, I fiddled with it for a very long time, and the desire to finish everything as soon as possible was already great, and because of this, I hastily glued these pieces at night without fitting the joints well. As a result, in one place a jamb surfaced later. But certainly not critical. Yes, and I glued it on Friday night, but there was a desire to completely process the rest for the exhaust. And you still have to wait for days. and did not postpone and pasted.

After the knife and sheath have dried out, and the oil has polymerized, albeit not completely, then more will come. We are preparing the composition for finishing. We take beeswax and our linseed oil in proportions of about 2 parts of oil and 1 part of wax, but I probably couldn’t stand it even by eye, but after reading the cooking recipes before that, I realized that there are no exact proportions, you want 1/3 you want 1 /4, and if you want clean wax process. There was an opportunity to process it with carnauba wax, but I decided to make it from our bee wax. In a water bath, melt the wax in the oil until smooth.

And we polish it with a felt circle finish.

My task was a knife with which you can cut and butcher meat, and so that it retains its sharpness after that. I love tomatoes with meat dishes, and it’s bad to cut them with a blunt knife. I can say that the task is carried out with a bang. Brazilians can't do that. The knife, of course, turned out to be not perfect, there are a couple of jambs on the slopes, a couple of jambs on the sheath, but all these jambs are mostly aesthetic nitpicking, and do not affect practical application in any way. And I think it's forgivable for the first time)) Well, another small remark: the budget. a piece of steel - 300 rubles. wood for the handle and scabbard - 500 rubles (of course, a board of such a tree costs 5 rubles, but it is 2 meters, and I used 15-20 cm from the board in total) skin - about 500 rubles. linseed oil - 200 rubles. 1500 are further purchases for the knife, which remained at my disposal for the rest of my life, so it is difficult to consider them as the cost of the knife. files, needle files, and all sorts of little things about 1k ruble ordinary sharpening bars - 150 rubles diamond bar 1.5 k. vise small 300 rubles total about 4.5 rubles. Of course, it was possible to find a ready-made knife at such a cost, but to be left without such nishtyaks as a diamond bar. which then would have to buy anyway. Everyone, you can drink.

Text author kadiko

One of the main elements of work in the kitchen is a kitchen knife. It would seem, what could be easier? But not every housewife knows what they are and why to use one or another type.

Especially for you, we have prepared a selection of the main types of kitchen knives and their purposes with photos and brief characteristics. Let's try to figure out which of them are really needed in the kitchen, and which are useful only occasionally and just take up extra space.

The main types of kitchen knives

Despite all the diversity, three knives are rightfully considered the main chef's trio, without which the cooking process seems extremely difficult and labor-intensive. Consider each of the knives in more detail.

Chef's knife. Universal Tool, which can replace most other knives - except perhaps the bread knife. However, many cooks manage only with them - a matter of technology. A fairly large heavy knife, despite its size, is easy to use. Shredding vegetables, slicing meat, peeling fruit... All this is easy to do with a chef's knife.

A wide blade, eighteen to twenty-five centimeters long, should be perfectly sharpened and strong enough. Strength is essential for handling frozen foods.

Given that the quality of this knife has always been put forward by the most high requirements we have prepared for you.

Another important component of the "big three" is a bread knife with a serrated blade. The length of such a knife is about twenty-one centimeters. His salient feature- a blade similar to a saw-hacksaw, processed by the serrated sharpening method. The specially serrated blade easily cuts the bread pulp without crushing it.

The last required tool is a small one. vegetable peeler, with a blade about seven to eight centimeters. The small size allows you to comfortably hold it in your hand and thoroughly peel potatoes, zucchini and other vegetables or fruits - something that is difficult to handle with larger knives.

Popular types of knives

Of course, these are not all types of knives for use in the kitchen. If you go to a special chef's shop, the variety of knives will amaze you. We offer to study in more detail those of them that can be a good addition to the main cook three.

Perhaps at the top of this list should be utility knife, which is found in almost every home. Blade classical form usually reaches fifteen centimeters. This knife is suitable for both meat and vegetables. It is easy to use and does not require special skills.
However, with soft or, conversely, too hard products, such a knife will not cope.

Few people know that the potato peeler available in almost every home is actually also a kind of knife. A vegetable peeler, if you use the official terminology, thanks to two blades turned towards each other, is very convenient for peeling vegetables and fruits. Floating blades provide additional ergonomics - the hand gets tired of such a knife much less than if you were trying to peel potatoes or apples with a regular knife.

Another useful knife kitchen hatchet. A wide square blade up to eighteen centimeters long is indispensable for chopping meat. Thanks to high strength it allows you to easily cut through large pieces of meat, including frozen.

Its peculiarity is also interesting: if most knives need to be cut along the product, such an ax should be lowered deeper.

Important: if you decide to purchase a kitchen hatchet, pay attention to the handle! It should be comfortable and not slip in your hand - otherwise you may be injured.

For a non-professional home kitchen, it will not be superfluous to purchase a small sandwich knife with a slightly rounded blade. Who among us does not like to make a couple of sandwiches for breakfast or afternoon tea?

The peculiar shape of such a knife will allow you to conveniently spread butter and other soft products on bread: pates, melted cheese, soft cottage cheese or mousse, jam ...

The 8 cm wide blade makes it much easier to make sandwiches.

A fillet knife with a narrow and long blade of twenty centimeters will also come in handy in the kitchen. The shape of the knife and the raised tip make it easy to fillet the fish, separating the fillet from the bone, and cut the meat into thin slices. But be careful: such a knife is not suitable for solid foods, so avoid cutting frozen meat or fish.

The Japanese santoku knife is not very popular with us. Oddly enough, this handy wide twenty-centimeter knife is not very famous. But the Americans have long appreciated it - many professional chefs switch from chef's knives to santoku. And in almost every house you can find such a model.

Thanks to the lowered tip, the knife is more ergonomic than its chef counterpart. It is convenient when chopping meat or shredding. The tip allows you to filigree cut even the most capricious products, including bread.

Another less popular knife will come in handy for many cheese lovers. That's what it's called - cheese. It is better to use it for soft varieties - with hard ones you can handle a universal or chef's knife. The indentations or holes on the blade of the knife allow you to cut soft cheese, avoiding its deformation and sticking. A nice bonus - at the tip of such a knife is often a small fork, for neatly transferring cheese to a plate.

Fancy knives

If you really like to cook without being afraid of experiments and non-standard dishes, you should be interested in the following types of knives. They are not often used in home kitchen, however, they can greatly facilitate the life of an enthusiastic cook.

For lovers of stuffed vegetables, no doubt it will come in handy. cavity cutting knife. The oval shape of the blade looks unusual, but once you take it in your hands, you will understand all the convenience. The pointed edge allows you to quickly remove the pulp from zucchini, eggplant and other vegetables. If you wish, you can even prepare pieces of meat for stuffing - but for this it will be more convenient to slightly freeze them.

Another one interesting model- knife for cucumbers. However, with its help, you can quickly cut any hard vegetables or fruits into thin, neat slices. Seven parallel blades provide a sharp and precise line, so your plate of fruit or vegetable cuts will look perfect.

The so-called chopping knife is also interesting to use. The semicircular blade is crowned with two handles at once. It is proposed to work with him with two hands. This knife is suitable for cutting chopped steaks, quick shredder a large number meat or vegetables and so on.

The knife is often used in professional kitchens, but amateurs are afraid of it. And in vain. Yes, working with chopped products requires certain skills - but after spending a couple of hours on training, you will notice how much easier it has become to work with chopped products.

Popularity Japanese cuisine could not affect the market kitchen appliances Russia. If you love sushi bars, why not try preparing their menu at home? Thanks to its flexible long blade (about twenty centimeters), a kitchen sashimi knife will allow you to cut salmon and any other fish into thin, almost transparent slices. Your sushi will look perfect!

The eternal competitor of sushi is pizza. Fans of hot cakes with cheese are familiar with attempts to cut a hot product, only from the oven. The cheese stretches unaesthetically, sometimes falls along with the filling ... To avoid such troubles, purchase round knife for pizza. A rotating blade with fine teeth allows you to quickly cut pizza into neat, aesthetic slices.

Of course, we could not describe all types of knives - experts number up to two hundred. However, we hope that the selection will help you decide necessary minimum, which will greatly facilitate the cooking process and make work in the kitchen quick and enjoyable.

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