Do-it-yourself kitchen: we draw up a project for the kitchen, a step-by-step assembly process. Home master: we make homemade furniture for the kitchen How kitchen furniture is made

Any furniture showroom can offer a wide range of kitchen furniture. But the purchase of a kitchen set is not always affordable for the owner of the apartment. In addition to the high cost of kitchen furniture, many people have to face such a problem as its large dimensions that do not correspond to small apartment. The solution to such issues can be the independent manufacture of kitchen furniture. With the help of ready-made components, which can be easily found in almost any specialized store, it is quite easy to cope with this task. The cost of a self-made kitchen, as you understand, will differ markedly from that bought in a store.

Figure 1. The first stage of creating a kitchen with your own hands is to measure and create a drawing of the kitchen.

The process of making furniture for the kitchen with your own hands is actually not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. As for the tools that you will need for the job, they are so primitive that you probably have them in your home. Purchasing hardware can be a lot of fun, as the various hinges, handles, and drawer slides inspire you to create your own kitchen furniture.

Step-by-step instructions for making kitchen furniture with your own hands

Figure 2. A drawing of furniture placement must be made in order to visually make sure that the kitchen set will fit into the size of the kitchen.

Armed with a tape measure and a simple pencil, you can proceed to the 1st stage of work - taking measurements and creating a drawing (Fig. 1). First you need to make accurate measurements of the kitchen and write them down on paper. It is recommended to display the room on a certain scale, so the finished kitchen furniture will fit into it as profitably as possible. A drawing of furniture placement in the kitchen is shown in fig. 2.

At this stage of work, it is worth deciding on the location of the sink and stove. If their location does not suit you, the drawing should indicate the place where you are going to install them. As for the sink, the issue here is not of particular importance, but the installation site of the stove must be considered to the smallest detail, since the dimensions of the future furniture for your kitchen will depend on this. In addition, given the large size of the refrigerator, it is important to determine its location in advance. At the same time, do not forget about free access to it.

The next step is to fit the furniture for the kitchen into the resulting space dimensions. In addition to the bottom row of future cabinets, this also takes into account top part furniture, and do not forget about placing the hood on top of the stove. In the process of calculating the width of cabinets, keep in mind that the resulting dimensions will have a direct relationship with the width that the standard furniture facades.

If you have such an opportunity, you can place an order for all components kitchen area, while taking into account the specified dimensions, including furniture facades. When calculating furniture dimensions, special attention is paid to the size of the drawers that, according to your idea, will be put forward. In addition, you should decide where the internal shelves will be located.

Figure 3. Drawing of kitchen furniture, taking into account chipboard dimensions.

Having correctly calculated the dimensions of the drawers, you will ensure convenient use of them, in addition, it will depend on what sizes decorative facades you will need. Based on where you decide to place the shelves, you can determine how many they will be required. It is desirable to make this calculation so that household appliances can be freely placed in the finished cabinet.

Having indicated all the dimensions in the drawing, you should decide on the material that is ideal for the manufacture of kitchen furniture. If you want to meet the minimum costs, you can give your preference to chipboard plates, the back walls in this case are made of fiberboard. At the same time, the most the best option there will be furniture facades made of MDF material, as they are distinguished by their practicality and durability. In addition, the material has a wide variety of colors. There are no special recommendations regarding the choice of countertops, here you should consider only your material capabilities and rely on your own taste. On fig. 3 shows a drawing of a kitchen set, taking into account chipboard dimensions.

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Component parts

Figure 4. Corner drawing kitchen sofa.

Given the fact that you will not be able to buy finished parts that have the dimensions you need, any company involved in this can provide you with a similar service. It should be noted right away that home conditions are absolutely not suitable for the manufacture of high-quality parts. The jigsaw in this case can only spoil the material, because by using it, you risk getting chips and other defects.

By contacting any relevant company, you will receive a perfectly sawn material, taking into account all dimensions, with already processed edges. If you wish, you can save money by doing the edging yourself. But in this case, you will need a melamine film, which, as practice shows, does not differ in its durability.

The melamine film should be glued to the end side of the part, for this a conventional iron is used. Excess material is cut off with a clerical knife. Such a process cannot be called complicated, due to the fact that the basis of this finishing material is paper, it is very convenient to work with it.

The kitchen will last much longer if you opt for ABS plastic edging. Glue it with the help of specially designed equipment. In the case of other types of edging, they require appropriate processing of the end part of the part.

When placing an order for parts, be prepared for the fact that you will be required to take all their measurements, which must be indicated in millimeters. It is very important that the dimensions of the fronts are approximately 3 mm smaller than the dimensions of the cabinets. In addition, keep in mind that their height must be calculated so that the doors do not touch the floor. It is recommended that the leg height be around 80-100mm. The drawing of the corner block of the kitchen sofa is shown in fig. 4.

Many firms accepting such orders provide an opportunity to purchase accessories here. In this case, it makes no sense to go to specialized stores.

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Materials and tools

Figure 5. Dimensional drawing of an L-shaped hanging kitchen cabinet.

1. Hinges for furniture.
2. Confirmations.
3. Self-tapping screws.
4. Dowels.
5. Electric drill.
6. Electric jigsaw.
7. Screwdriver.
8. Forstner drill.
9. Roulette.
10. Simple pencil.

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Assembly process

The assembly of furniture that will stand in your kitchen is carried out in stages. You should act with the help of the drawing. First of all, lockers are assembled. To fasten parts, it is necessary to use confirmations (special furniture ties). Before installing them, you need to drill holes, for this purpose you will need a drill with a diameter of 5 mm.

The back wall should be attached to the finished cabinet body, for which it is better to use laminated fiberboard material. After assembling the cabinets, the installation of adjustable legs remains. On fig. 5 shows a drawing of an L-shaped corner hinged kitchen cabinet

Figure 6. The design of the side wall of the kitchen cabinet - pencil case.

The tabletop must be laid so that it lies on the lower cabinets. To fasten it, use self-tapping screws. The sink should be mounted in a pre-cut hole in the countertop of the size you need. To ensure that the hole fits your sink exactly, place it on top of the countertop with the bottom facing up. Using a simple pencil, outline its outline. Having removed the sink, draw a line along the inside of the resulting drawing so that it deviates from the previous line by 1.5 cm.

Then, using a jigsaw, cut out the hole you need.

The cut must be well processed using silicone sealant for this.

Thus, you protect the countertop from the negative effects of moisture, thereby significantly extending its life. On fig. 6 shows a drawing of the side wall of the kitchen cabinet.

Before proceeding with the installation and fastening of the sink, also process its lower part using the same silicone sealant. This will prevent water from getting under the sink.

At the next stage of work, drawer guides are installed, as well as fasteners for shelves. Self-tapping screws must have a length corresponding to the thickness of the chipboard. For shelves in which you are going to store heavy items, it is desirable to use metal corners.

If you have completed a kitchen renovation or summer kitchen and want to install now new headset, you will probably be interested in how to assemble kitchen furniture correctly with your own hands.

Of course, you can buy a ready-made wooden set for the kitchen or summer kitchen or order it in any furniture store, but you can also save on assembly, especially since this process is not at all complicated.

Creating drawings and counting materials

Before you start assembling kitchen furniture with your own hands, you should draw up detailed drawings kitchens, in which the width and height of the walls, the dimensions of the walls and window sills will be indicated.

Also, in the drawings, make a diagram of communications - gas and water pipes, wires, batteries.

The drawings should reflect the shape of your future wood furniture - it can be straight, L-shaped and U-shaped. For a small one, L-shaped or U-shaped will be relevant.

It should be borne in mind that the stove should be no further than two meters from gas pipe, it is better to place a washing machine and dishwasher closer to the water and drain pipes, and put the refrigerator away from the gas stove and closer to the mains.

Also add to the drawings in which cabinets you will store dishes and all kitchen utensils, where the products will be hidden. Don't forget the work surface too.

When creating drawings of wooden furniture for a large and small kitchen with your own hands, consider what material you need to make cabinet frames, facades, countertops.

Which cabinets will be with solid doors, and which ones will be with glass or mirrored ones. All of these materials have their own thickness, so your drawings should take that into account as well.

Special attention should be paid to the calculation of fittings.

You should know that standard height lower drawers - 85 cm. This includes the thickness of the table top, the height of the adjustable legs, as well as the wooden cabinets themselves.

The width of the drawers depends on the content and purpose, for example, dishwashers, ovens and hobs are mounted in a cabinet with an internal width of 60 cm. The rest of the cabinets can be made in absolutely any size, but in standard sets these are usually round numbers - 30, 40, 50 cm.

If you only want to update the kitchen by replacing the facades, then just measure their dimensions.

If you are the owner of a small apartment, then your future kitchen should also be small, special attention should be paid to saving space.

You can save space in a small kitchen by using the space under the window, where you can place a work or dining surface.

You can also save space in a small kitchen by narrowing cabinets by 10 - 20 cm, built-in appliances, sliding doors. Consider all this in your sketches.

If you are designing furniture for a summer kitchen, then you should also consider some points. It is better to use materials for the summer kitchen that are heat and moisture resistant.

If you will be engaged in harvesting and canning in your summer kitchen, then take into account the place for storing vegetables and fruits and kitchen utensils.

If it is difficult for you to make a drawing of furniture for your kitchen or summer kitchen yourself, then you can use ready-made drawings for small and large kitchens, which are presented in various magazines and photos on the Internet.

To facilitate the work, you can also use special furniture programs that are very easy to use.

When your drawings are ready, you need to make final calculations and purchase all the necessary material.

To update only some details of the kitchen space, detailed drawings are not needed.

Materials for kitchen furniture

Nowadays, kitchen furniture made of natural wood is rare; most often, chipboard is used to make furniture with their own hands.

Basically, those firms that sell chipboard can cut sheets into parts of the size you need, and also make chipboard edging. Chipboard thickness for cabinets and bedside tables - 16 or 18 mm.

For kitchen doors, you can buy ordinary hinges or hinges with closers. For drawers made of chipboard, special systems are also sold for any pocket.

If funds allow, you can choose different fillings for your cabinets - dryers, grids, shelves, pull-out systems and much more, which will be especially important for a small kitchen.

All this you choose based on your taste and the size of your wallet.

For the manufacture of facades, the same chipboard is used, or you can purchase ready-made facades of standard sizes from MDF or natural wood.

It is best to choose a countertop that is moisture and heat resistant, but if you need a budget option (for example, for a summer kitchen), then you can use ordinary chipboard as a countertop.

Assembly of upper and lower cabinets

Do-it-yourself furniture assembly begins with the assembly of straight cabinets. On the side walls cabinets, fix the drawer rails, as it will be inconvenient to do this later.

The assembly continues as follows: the initial fastening of the cabinets is carried out by means of dowels planted on glue. After that, the parts are connected with a hex screw.

A decorative cap is then put on the head of the screw in the color of the cabinets.

Now you need to attach adjustable legs to the cabinet, or, if you have a budget option, ordinary plastic nozzle legs.

A sheet of laminated fiberboard is nailed as the back wall of the cabinet.

Assembly upper cabinets do it the same way with your own hands.

At this stage of work, adjustable fasteners for doors, lamps and other elements provided for by the design are also attached.

Now you need to assemble the drawers with your own hands.

They are assembled in the same way as other cabinets - three walls are fastened together, inserted into the bottom of the fiberboard and the front of the box is fixed with a special screed.

Now attach the roller guides to the bottom corners of the drawer and slide the drawers into place.

Headset installation

When the assembly of cabinets is completed, we proceed to install the furniture in its place. It is most convenient for yourself to start with a side cabinet or, if the furniture is corner, then from the corner.

In the cabinet where the sink will be located, cut a hole for the drain and water pipes. Install all floor cabinets and adjust their height.

Wall cabinets must be hung on a steel rail. Connect cabinets together furniture ties to form a one-piece structure.

The upper cabinets should hang at least 60 cm from the lower cabinets.

The hob is attached in the same way. It is very inconvenient to cut such holes yourself, so it is better to call someone for help.

Now you need to attach the table top. If you have a corner kitchen, then the ends of the countertops are connected using metal strips; in a small kitchen, the countertop comes in one piece.

The ends of the coating at the slab are covered with finishing strips also made of metal, and where the heat will not act, the furniture edge is fixed.

The tabletop should be installed on cabinets with an overlap of about 3 cm, from below it is attached to self-tapping screws. When everything is assembled, you can hang the doors on the cabinets.

If this is done at the very beginning, then they would interfere with the further installation of the kitchen, so the doors are hung at the end of the work.

With a special plastic plinth, in the color of your countertop, close up the gaps between the surface and the wall. Install sink, stove and hood.

Renovation of an old kitchen unit

In the event that you only need to update the set, for example, when its filling is still in good condition, but the design is outdated or tired, or you want to make an updated set for the summer kitchen or summer cottage, then you can use several methods.

The easiest and cheapest way to update your summer kitchen set with your own hands is to glue it with self-adhesive film or decorate the facades with vinyl stickers.

This option is suitable as summer furniture or summer kitchen furniture.

A more radical way to update the kitchen with your own hands is to replace the facades. Instead of old facades, you can purchase facades made of wood or chipboard in standard sizes or in individual sizes.

If you want to update the kitchen inexpensively, then you can do it with the help of facades made of chipboard, plastic or cheap wood.

If your budget is not limited, then you can update the headset with valuable wood or MDF. You can update the kitchen with your own hands with the help of moldings and painting.

Such an update will be appropriate in a small and large kitchen, and will also perfectly complement the furniture for the summer kitchen.

Make marks on the facades, glue the molding with wood glue, attach the fittings, prime and paint the surface.

Updated in this way, country and kitchen furniture will look fresh and new.

The question of self-manufacturing a kitchen set often arises after repairs have been carried out in this room. It often happens that a kit that seems to be suitable in terms of cost and design does not fit into the actual dimensions of the kitchen. There are a lot of proposals for the manufacture of headsets to order in our time, but the cost is very considerable. After evaluating the prices of furniture, as well as their financial capabilities, some owners come to the conclusion that they can save a decent amount if they build a kitchen (hereinafter, we mean its furniture content) on their own.

If you have at least minimal experience in working with carpentry tools, in processing wood-based materials, then mounting the desired structure yourself according to a personal project drawn up is a completely realistic task. with their own hands can be assembled from finished parts made by the workshop according to a specific drawing, or made from scratch from natural wood and furniture panels of various types.

The objective reasons to independently make a kitchen according to your own sketches and drawings are as follows:

• Provides the ability to create furniture cabinets and shelves ideally suited to a particular room in terms of its parameters and configuration. In addition, by creating a kitchen sketch, you can immediately determine convenient location all kitchen accessories, number and shape of furniture items.

• Considerable cost savings are achieved, since the finished headset will cost significantly more, although it can be made from the same material that you can choose yourself. Everything is understandable - in addition to the material, you have to pay for the work of craftsmen, fare, a whole list of all sorts of other taxes and deductions known only to accountants. All this is included in one way or another in the selling price of the kit.
• The exclusivity of the design of the furniture set is ensured.
• It would probably not be an exaggeration to say that for most real owners (we will not take into account pathological lazy people), such independent furniture making becomes a very exciting activity, an opportunity to show their skills and creativity. Well, the finished kitchen environment, made by hand, is an indispensable source of pride.

As you can see, the reasons for making a kitchen set with your own hands are quite enough. Well, their totality should generally dispel all doubts. Naturally, if the owner is not a perfect layman in these matters.

Creating a project for a future kitchen

The first step is a sketch

You should start creating a kitchen set with a project, which is best done in the form of a sketch, and then an exact drawing. The sketch will help visualize how the kitchen will look like, and the drawing with the dimensions taken for it from the location of the headset will become a guide, as when ordering material for further work, and for assembling parts into a single structure.

The sketch takes into account the features of the kitchen and the possibility of placing furniture in it. If a project is being developed for a standard kitchen high-rise building, then the most popular options are either a kitchen wall installed in one line.

Taking measurements and taking into account design features

To ensure that when creating a project, comply with all necessary requirements, careful measurements of the kitchen installation area should be made. When conducting them, the following parameters of the room are taken into account:

• The length and height of the walls along which it is planned to install a kitchen set.
• Wall length from front door to the corner of the room.
• The distance from the window opening to the wall.
• When taking measurements, it is necessary to separately indicate at what distance from adjacent walls there are communications - sewer and water pipes, as well as a gas main.

Knowing these parameters, you can move on to determining the dimensions of furniture cabinets, which should both fit into the designated area and be comfortable to use.

Sketch Project Example corner kitchen with marked dimensions

The following parameters are standard for a kitchen set:

• For floor cabinets:

- height - 850 mm;

– depth can vary from 500 to 600 mm;

- width - from 300 to 800 mm.

• Wall cabinets may vary slightly in size, as their parameters depend on the height of the ceiling and the preferences of the kitchen owners:

- their standard height is 850 mm, but it can be increased to 900 mm if you plan to raise them to the ceiling, or reduced to 800 ÷ 700 mm;

- depth of cabinets - 300 mm;

- the width usually corresponds to the width floor pedestals, planned under wall cabinets - so they look more beautiful in one "ensemble". Although this requirement is optional.

In addition, when drawing up a drawing, the following factors must be taken into account:

• The location and size of the sink, as well as the fact that under it you will have to provide a separate cabinet or section of the countertop.
• On both sides of the sink there should be cabinets (free areas of the countertop) with a width of at least 300 mm. Their surface will add comfort during the operation of the sink, and the cabinets themselves will serve to store kitchen utensils. In addition, one of the cabinets can be used for the installation of a washing machine or dishwasher.
• The top of the headset must include at least two sections.
• Above the hob, it is necessary to provide a place for.
• When drawing up a plan, you should also immediately indicate the location of the refrigerator if it is installed in one of the lines of the headset.

Optimum distance between sink and stove

• It is very important to observe the distance between the sink and the hob, since according to the standards it should be at least 450 ÷ 500 mm.

• The distance between the hob and the hood should be 750 mm for a gas stove and 650 mm for an electric stove. This will ensure both a good removal of rising vapors and proper operation safety.

A sketch of the kitchen can be drawn by hand on a sheet in a cage, which will help to maintain the proportions of the actual dimensions of the headset placement area. A more "advanced" option is to use one of the 3D modeling computer programs, for example, "PRO 100". In the latter case, it will be possible to take into account every millimeter of the allotted area.

You can find many on the web interesting applications, allowing you to plan the placement of furniture, and get ready-made drawings of each of the details

If the sketch is drawn up manually, then it is additionally necessary to make furniture drawings. In these graphic documents, the exact dimensions of the structure are affixed, since all its components will be made according to them.

If drawing up a drawing seems to be an impossible task due to inexperience, then you can use one of the options presented on the Internet. Surely, if you wish, you can find options for both typical kitchens of the main series of high-rise buildings, and for non-standard kitchen premises.

When choosing a specific project, you must immediately take into account your ability to manufacture individual structural elements. For example, shelves that have curvilinear shapes, since this will require not only a special tool, but also sufficient skills to work with it.

Chipboard cutting map

Based on the drawn up drawing, it is necessary to draw up a chipboard cutting map. It will help determine the amount required material, will reflect the distribution on the sheets of all the blanks necessary for the headset.

To create this graphic document, you need to know the standard parameters of chipboard boards on which the details of the kitchen set will be projected.

Going on sale today chipboard with a polished and laminated surface, having different thicknesses and linear dimensions.

An example of a map for cutting a chipboard sheet to the dimensions of furniture blanks

Chipboard boards can have a standard thickness of 8,10,12,16, 18, 22, 25, 28, 32 and 38 mm. For the walls and shelves of the floor part of the headset, most often material is chosen with a thickness of 16 ÷ 20 mm, and for wall cabinets, chipboard of 16 mm is suitable. If desired, you can choose greater thickness sheets.

Chipboard sheets of various thicknesses

The linear dimensions of sanded boards are usually 2440×1830 or 2750×1830 mm, and the laminated material - 2800×2070 and 2620×1830 mm. The parameters of the plates are designed for standard blanks for furniture, so you can choose options from them that will be cut with a minimum amount of waste.

An example of laminated chipboard worktops for a desktop

Worktop for the working area of ​​the kitchen is purchased separately. The choice of the consumer is provided different models according to the options for external design and thickness. Recommended thickness - 38 mm, especially in the area where the tie-in is planned hob or sinks. However, judging by the reviews of both the craftsmen and the owners of the kitchens, even cheaper high-quality countertops with a thickness of 28 mm serve quite successfully for years without requiring any replacement.

But to make a decision (in a fit of unrestrained savings) to make a countertop simply from an ordinary chipboard sheet, even if a large load is not planned on it, is unacceptable. Features of the operation of this section require a special wear-resistant coating and a special configuration of the front edge, which does not allow the accumulation of moisture from drops flowing from the table. A well-made one is completely closed on all sides, and only end cuts who should also receive necessary processing but already when assembling furniture.

A drawing of a slab cutting map can be compiled independently or used for this purpose computer program. Many companies involved in the sale of furniture chipboard (MDF) provide a free service for compiling such maps, on the basis of which cutting is then carried out.

Both wall and floor cabinets can have separate or common walls, depending on how they will be located in the headset.

The lower, floor-mounted part of the headset is most often used by common walls that divide the cabinets into departments. Thus, after fastening the blanks, this part becomes non-separable. However, if it is planned to retain the ability to rearrange kitchen furniture, then each cabinet should be assembled separately. But in this case, of course, the cost of material for blanks will increase.

So, in the chipboard or MDF cutting map, according to the developed drawing and the dimensions of the structural parts, the following parts of the structure should be placed:

• Side walls headset.
• Dividing walls that delimit the common floor and hinged structure for individual cabinets.
• Shelf preparations.
• Back walls. They are best made from a lighter material - it can be fiberboard or thin 3-4 mm plywood.
• front doors.

On the cutting map, it is best to put down, in addition to the dimensions of the parts, their numbering or names. So it will be easier to navigate when cutting plates and during assembly.

The tabletop is selected separately. Its length should correspond to the length of the floor part of the headset, since hob and the sink, as a rule, cut into its surface, and the washing machine and dishwasher are installed under it.

In addition to furniture blanks, you must purchase the following parts to assemble the structure:

• An edge of the corresponding chipboard color, which is used to form the front ends of the walls and shelves of the headset before assembling it.
• Fittings: hinges and handles.
• Camouflage strip for the gap between two parts of the table top and end caps.
• Drawers will require skids (sliding mechanisms).

• Furniture metal fasteners and wooden dowels.
• metal or plastic corners for fixing perpendicular parts.
• Adjustable legs, with which it will be possible to set the floor part of the headset strictly horizontally.

If you plan to make doors that open in a special way, for example, by lifting up or folding, they will require special mechanisms - there is no shortage of such products in our time.

Now, knowing what parts and materials will be needed for the manufacture and assembly of a kitchen set, you can go to a specialized store furniture materials, where you can usually immediately order a cut of slabs according to the presented cutting map. Upon request and availability special tool, cutting and edge processing can be done independently. But you also need to be able to do this, to have an appropriate high-quality tool. That is, it is better not to take risks and entrust this process to professionals working on high-precision equipment.

Carrying out installation and assembly operations

Tools for the job

To assemble the blanks into a single structure, you will need tools, some of them are in every house, others will have to be bought. But they will definitely come in handy later on for other repair or construction work.

So, from the tools you need to prepare:

• An electric drill and a set of drill bits for wood, including those confirmed for furniture screws.
• bits different sizes for a screwdriver, including hexagons.
• Construction square.
• Level.
• Clamps, at least 4 pieces.
• Pliers and hammer.
• Scissors.
• Syringe gun for applying liquid nails and sealant.
• Iron for gluing the edge.

Assembling a kitchen set

The most difficult thing is to start the assembly process, because the masters who do not have experience in this work do not know where to start. When the first steps are done, then the process will go faster. In fact, the blanks are a kind of "constructor", from which it is necessary to assemble the kitchen.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The first thing to be done is to understand the blanks, breaking them down by size, guided by the project drawing, which also contains all the parameters of the headset. After the parts are distributed into piles, it is recommended to sign them, indicating their belonging - walls, shelves, etc. Such preparatory measures will greatly simplify the work.
	After cutting, the ends of the panels facing the facade, as well as intended for cabinet doors, must be pasted over with a special edge tape that has a color that is in harmony with the main shade of the headset. The tape is fixed with a heated iron. When the tape is heated, it should protrude slightly beyond the edges of the panel. After the material has cooled, this excess must be immediately carefully cut off. sharp knife. For this purpose, a regular clerical knife with a new blade is suitable.
	The process begins with the assembly of the floor part of the headset. Therefore, it is necessary to take the lower panels of the structure, and immediately fix adjustable legs on them, if they are provided for by the project. To do this, the panels are marked with the installation sites of such supports. Then the legs are applied to the marked points, and points are marked on the panel with a pencil through the holes provided for fasteners. Further, non-through holes for fasteners are drilled along the marks. It is best to put the legs on the glue first, and then additionally fasten them with self-tapping screws. The fastening of the legs can occur in different ways - this one depends on the selected model of the part. The legs should be attached to all bottom panels.
	The next step is to assemble the walls of one of the cabinets. To make them stand at right angles to each other, you can use perforated corners made of metal 2 mm thick, so the connection must have a certain rigidity. Of course, it is recommended to check these corners beforehand - how perpendicular their shelves are. You can come up with another "conductor" that will help you set the two mating panels exactly at right angles. The corners are fixed at the top and bottom at the junction of the panels with the help of clamps.
	Then, the fastened walls must be twisted with screws, for which holes-nests are drilled using a comfortable drill. The drill is designed to form a hole that has at different levels various diameters required for this euroscrew. Due to this socket configuration, the screw will tightly hold the two panels, and its head will enter the chipboard flush with the wall surface. It can certainly be applied conventional drills, but you have to constantly rearrange them, and the work go where slower. And a special drill is not so expensive, especially since it will have plenty of work when assembling the headset.
	The panels must be fastened at three points by drilling nests with an indent from the upper and lower edges of 50 mm, as well as in the middle of the joined blanks. To accurately mark the location of the hole, 8 mm should be retreated from the side edge, with a chipboard thickness of 16 mm and 9 mm, with a panel thickness of 18 mm. To screw in a furniture screw, a hexagonal bit nozzle is installed in the screwdriver. All chipboard panels are fastened together in the same way.
	To make it clearer, the illustration shows the principle of connecting two perpendicular parts with confirmations.
	The bottom panel of the cabinet is also first fixed to the side walls with clamps, and then twisted with furniture screws.
	Another way of mutual fixation of panels can be wooden chopsticks - dowels with a diameter of 8 mm. They are installed in slots drilled at the end of one and along the edge of the other panel. Dowels are carefully hammered into these holes, previously smeared with glue. This mounting method is more complex and requires perfectly accurate marking of the holes to be drilled.
	In order for the marking to be accurate, after gluing the dowels into the lower end of the wall, it is laid with a shift on the bottom panel, leveled and tightened with clamps. After that, on the bottom panel, focusing on the already installed dowels, mark the points at which holes are drilled, with a diameter and depth corresponding to the size of the fasteners. Then, the holes are filled with glue and the side wall of the cabinet is docked. In order for the panels to be assembled exactly at a right angle, metal corners should be fixed on them, just as in the first version, using clamps. You can remove them after the glue has dried.
	After the walls are fastened to the bottom panel, it is nailed with small nails, stapler staples, or a back panel made of fiberboard or fiberboard is screwed onto small self-tapping screws. thin plywood.
	In the upper part, the side walls are connected to each other by two narrow boards, which will give rigidity to the design of the pedestal and will be the basis for fixing the table top. They are installed with inside walls and are also screwed with furniture confirmatory screws. They will need 2 pieces for each of the fixed sides.
	If a cabinet is assembled for drawers, then before fastening the walls to the bottom panel, they internal surfaces are marked, and retractable mechanisms are installed on them according to the markings (they may have a different design). It is clear that the installation of these guides on opposite walls must be strictly symmetrical. Of course, this process can be carried out in an already assembled cabinet, but this is inconvenient and rather difficult to do - both dark and cramped.
	If it is planned to fix front doors on the cabinet, then for the installation of hinges it is necessary to mark and equip the landing nests for them in advance. For drilling mounting holes a special cutter of the required diameter is used. When marking, it is necessary to observe the distance from the edge of the panel to the edge of the seat - it should be 5 mm.
	To ensure that the hinges are installed evenly and the doors are not skewed, the wall and the door are laid on flat surface, and markings for arranging mounting sockets and mounting holes are made on them simultaneously. A socket of the required diameter is drilled on the side wall, the corresponding part of the loop is installed in it. Then, focusing on it, the attachment points of the reciprocal mounting pad on the door are marked. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled along the markings. After that, the hinges are screwed on and their operation is checked. Further, they can be temporarily dismantled, and permanently installed after the cabinet is assembled.
	This photo shows the installation of the assembled cabinets in the overall design. In this case, each of the floor cabinets has its own walls, but it is possible that the walls act as partitions in the overall structure. However, it must be borne in mind that in the latter case, a higher load will fall on the partitions, so many shelves and drawers are not recommended. The assembled structure is leveled, if necessary, adjusting the height of the support legs.
	Further, front doors can be finally fixed on the walls of cabinets (cabinets). It will not be difficult to install them, since the necessary holes have already been prepared for their fastening. The door handles are screwed on.
	The next step is to install a worktop on evenly exposed and fastened together cabinets. It can be solid or have different connecting joints - even or diagonal, depending on the layout of the kitchen set. Having prepared and adjusted the parts of the countertop, mark out the areas where the sink and hob will be embedded.
	The edges of the sink, depending on its model, can be installed on top of the countertop or flush with it. The illustration shows a variant of a built-in kitchen sink. Marking the window for it is best done according to the pattern, which manufacturers often include with the sink. If there is no cutting pattern, then you should do it yourself: put the bowl on a sheet of cardboard and trace its outline with a pencil.
	The opening for the kitchen sink is cut using an electric jigsaw. First, a through hole is drilled on the marking line in the tabletop - it is necessary for inserting a jigsaw file. From the outer marking line, some craftsmen prefer to fix the masking tape, which will prevent the edges from chipping and will be a good guide when working. In the same way, a hole is marked and cut out under hob.
	An important nuance. In a cut-out opening for a sink or hob, the end walls are completely defenseless against moisture penetration. And water that has seeped into the chipboard and penetrated into its structure can cause it to swell and deform. So experienced craftsmen it is highly recommended to perform another operation. A strip is applied to the cut ends of the opening silicone sealant, and then distributed so that the entire section is densely covered with this composition. After that, without waiting for the sealant to cool, you can proceed to install the sink or hob.
	Fixing the kitchen sink in the countertop window can be done in different ways, depending on its model. Most often, such sinks are attached to reverse side countertops using special adjustable hook brackets that are included in the delivery.
	On the underside of the support sides of the sink, before installing it in the prepared opening, it is necessary to apply a layer of sealant, which will close the gaps formed between the sink and the countertop and prevent water from flowing.
	Before the final installation of the table top, its cut ends must be closed with special aluminum plates that exactly repeat the shape of the panel cross section. These pads come in left and right. A strip of silicone sealant is applied to the end before installing the lining ...
	... which is then spread over the entire surface in an even layer. This is easy to do with a finger dipped in soapy water.
	After that, the overlay is installed, set exactly along the edges and fixed with self-tapping screws - for this, holes are provided on it. Everything, the butt is protected. Similarly - on the other edge of the countertop.
	Next, the tabletop is installed on the assembled floor structure the headset and is fixed with self-tapping screws from their inside through the crossbars, which were discussed above.
	Of course, the countertop is always striving to be made solid, that is, consisting of one piece. The length of standard panels (up to 4000 mm) usually allows this. On a straight section, it is best to do without joints. But if the headset has an angular configuration, then you will have to make a perpendicular joint. The gaps between the individual parts of the tabletop are closed with a bar specially designed for this purpose. Installing the bar - by analogy with the end. But in this case, this connecting part already has a somewhat named configuration, which ensures the docking of the rounded front side with the cut end side.
	You can decorate the edge of the tabletop adjacent to the wall in different ways. Some prefer to frame the worktop with a special skirting board, others with a strip of the same material from which the countertop is made (as shown in the illustration). Still others, even as an apron, are fixed on the wall with a whole tabletop panel with a figured edge up, joining it with a horizontal surface.
	To install wall cabinets, special adjustable hangers can be used, on which you can move the cabinet along the metal profile, and also draw it closer to the wall, removing an unnecessary gap between the surfaces.
	To fix the hangers on the cabinet, it is necessary to cut slots-nests for them in its back wall. Brackets are inserted into them and screwed from behind to its side wall.
	The brackets fixed on the cabinet are inserted into the profile, which is pre-fixed on the dowels to the wall along the entire length of the headset and, of course, is aligned strictly horizontally. Thanks to the profile, all cabinets will be located on the wall at the same level, and they can be moved slightly, if necessary, during the final installation of the entire headset.
	The table drawers are assembled according to the same principle as the floor cabinets and wall cabinets. The difference lies in the fact that four walls of the structure are fastened together. To facilitate the process, it is recommended to mark the workpieces, that is, on the parts to be fastened, mark the area of ​​\u200b\u200btheir junction, setting one of them with the end face to the edge of the other, and then draw a line with a pencil.
	Further, in the marked area thin drill it is necessary to outline two holes, exactly in the middle between the edge and the drawn line, departing from the upper and lower edges of the workpiece by 20 ÷ 25 mm. The same process must be done with another part of the box - these will be its front and rear walls.
	Further, the parts with drilled holes are pressed against the end of the side walls, and through drilled holes fastened together with furniture screws.
	When all four walls of the cabinet are interconnected, the bottom of the structure, made of fiberboard or plywood, is nailed with nails 20 mm long. At the same time, the resulting box will be "automatically" aligned strictly in the shape of a rectangle. If you plan to store a heavy enough kitchen utensils, then the bottom can be screwed with self-tapping screws 3 × 20 mm in increments of about 50 mm.
	Drawer guides are usually attached to the lower side edge of the drawer. But there are other designs of such skids. In any case, they must be combined with the mating parts of the mechanism, fixed on the walls of the cabinet cabinet.
	The bottom drawer is installed first. After work sliding mechanism is checked, the drawer is removed from the housing to mount the front panel and handle on it. The width of the front lining must be equal to the width of the pedestal body. First, the location of the handle is marked, then the facade is fixed on the front wall of the box with the help of clamps, and according to the marking, through holes are drilled through both panels.
	Further, two holes are drilled from the inside of the box, which should be located at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from the side edges. Holes in the wall of the drawer should be through, and in the front panel they should be deepened by 8 ÷ 10 mm. The hole diameter should be 8 mm. Then, glue is poured into the hole, and wooden dowels are carefully hammered. At the last stage, a handle is screwed to the box with screws from the inside, which will pull the wall and facade together. Clamps are best removed after the glue has dried.
	When the bottom drawer is completely ready and installed, the same process is carried out with the drawer that will be located above it. But the facade panel, of course, is fixed on it, taking into account the height of the facade of the lower drawer. In the same way, the installation of other retractable parts of the structure is carried out.

* * * * * * *

As can be seen from the description, when assembling blanks into a single set, you will have to face quite large quantity small embarrassing nuances. But, at the same time, this work is extremely interesting.

In addition, by making the kitchen yourself, you can save a lot. family budget. To verify this, it is necessary, just for the sake of interest, to find out the cost of everything necessary for independent work and calculate the purchase budget, compare it with the cost of the finished headset.

Find out how to do it in a special article on our portal.

As a bonus, we offer you to watch an interesting video. It shows a process that is completely simple even for a novice master. self-manufacturing original kitchen set, which uses only natural lumber.

Video: Do-it-yourself kitchen - no chipboard, only board and timber

Designer products for the home are expensive, but sometimes you want to decorate an apartment with something unusual. AT small spaces Do-it-yourself kitchen furniture assembled from improvised materials can be not only an element of decor, but also a good solution for organizing space. At the same time, it is possible to save on the purchase of a headset.

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What cuisine are we planning to make?

Before starting work on independent creation furniture for the kitchen, you need to think about its style. Even in a standard city apartment, the room can be decorated not just with home-made furniture, but with designer items.

To design a kitchen in fashionable loft or industry styles, non-standard and comfortable furniture from pallets: it is not difficult to connect ready-made pallets with your own hands. Without additional processing, you can make a table, seats or a seating area from them. For the manufacture of cabinet furniture, pallets will have to be disassembled. In the decor unusual cuisine can be used and metal parts(e.g. car parts).

Do-it-yourself furniture in the kitchen can also be made in a rustic style. This is the name of the interiors using slightly processed natural materials(stumps, saw cuts of wood, stones, etc.). To harmoniously combine functionality and beauty in a product, you will have to independently create sketches of each piece of furniture.

The easiest way is to create furniture in Provence, country, shabby chic and similar naive rural areas with your own hands at home. For the manufacture of cabinets, sideboards, tables will do and out of order soviet furniture from chipboard, and old items that will have to be restored and refinished. You can equip them with makeshift shelves, stools or benches made of solid wood (boards, pallets, unusual boxes).

Preparation of drawings and diagrams

An important detail of the kitchen interior is a system of hanging and floor cabinets, in which you can build a stove and sink, install dishwasher and refrigerator. This is the largest item in the kitchen, so the sketch must begin with its development. Cabinet kitchen furniture you can make it linear or angular with your own hands, and install an island in a large kitchen.

To draw up a diagram, you need to measure the length of the wall where the headset will stand. The height of shelves or wall cabinets is selected individually, given that it should be convenient to reach the headset by hand up to the topmost item. The bottom of the wall cabinet should be above the countertop at a height of at least 50 cm, and the height of floor items should be 85-90 cm.

In the drawing or diagram, the locations of sockets and communications should also be noted. They are tied to a sink, gas or electric stove, fridge. Work tables can be placed in free places.

When drawing up the scheme of the upper tier, it is necessary to take into account the need and place for installing the hood, designate communication pipes or other unremovable interior details. When assembling furniture, you will have to make holes and recesses in the corresponding parts of the cabinets. The scheme of each individual cabinet takes into account its dimensions in length, width and height, as well as the number internal shelves and the distance between them.

In addition to the drawing of the headset, it is worth making a general plan of the kitchen. On it, note the location of other pieces of furniture: dining table, racks, shelves, etc. It should be borne in mind that from the cabinets of the lower tier the headset to another piece of furniture should be at least 1.5-2 m. In a small kitchen, you can make folding and retractable tabletops and seats.

materials

Homemade furniture can be made from a variety of materials:

• cases from large audio speakers;
• interior doors;
• wine barrels;
• scraps plastic pipes different diameter;
• details of an old wardrobe, wall, wardrobe.

The decor of home-made furniture is distinguished by a special variety. For finishing objects made of old furniture with their own hands, they also use unusual fittings. Handles and overhead moldings can be removed from old items, car parts or self-sawed parts carved from wood can be used for this purpose.

Furniture surfaces are finished with a self-adhesive film, decorated with decoupage or painting, painted and varnished. Tiles, plastic are laid on the countertops, they are decorated with mosaics. The decor of the countertop can be repeated on the apron of the headset, and used for decoration empty walls and doorways.

Required Tools

To make furniture for the kitchen with your own hands, you will need:

1. drill with a set of drills;
2. a screwdriver and various bits (a 6-sided one is also required);
3. cutter for notching cups for loops;
4. jigsaw;
5. building level;
6. corner clamps;
7. self-tapping screws and confirmations;
8. edging tape and iron;
9. construction knife;
10. sandpaper.

Depending on how the surface will be decorated, brushes, a construction spatula, files, etc. may be additionally required.

Assembly of headset elements

Cabinets and wall cabinets are assembled in the following sequence:

• Cut out parts from a chipboard sheet or cut from the walls of old furniture, solid wood, etc. The dimensions of the parts for the headset must exactly match the drawings.
• The elements of each pedestal are marked so as not to be confused during assembly.
• Before assembling in the walls, select recesses for frog loops. The distance from the center of the cup to the edge is 21-22 mm.
• You need to connect the parts so that the sections of the vertical sidewalls are under the countertops. The bottom of the cabinet closes the bottom in the same way. Furniture corners are used for connection: fasten fasteners onto self-tapping screws from the inside of the cabinet. The connection can also be made on dowels (plug-in spikes hidden in the thickness of the wood).

• The curbstone under a laid on sink has no table-top. To connect the sidewalls in the upper part, put 2 transverse parts. They should be located between the sidewalls, and their planes are aligned along the upper edges of the walls.
• MDF doors must be edged before installation. For this, it is necessary special tape made of PVC, matching the color of the facade. The edge is glued by ironing it with a hot iron through the paper. After cooling, cut off the excess edges, and gently clean the corners with sandpaper. If the doors are made of clapboard or plywood, such processing is not needed.
• Place the cabinet in a vertical position and mark the mounting points for the supports under the drawers or shelves. Fasten the guides from the inside to the screws so that the screws do not go to the front side of the walls. In order for the boxes to be even, you need to check the horizontal installation of the guides according to the level.
• Flip the cabinet face down and secure the back of thin plywood or fiberboard to self-tapping screws or furniture staples. Attach hangers to wall cabinets.

Mounting

Before installing self-made furniture, you need to complete repairs in the kitchen. First you need to install the lower tier of the kitchen set. The linear version begins to be mounted from any extreme block. For mounting L-shaped headset put first corner cabinet. The remaining cabinets are placed according to the developed plan.

At this stage, it is important to align all the blocks so that the countertops form a solid surface. It is desirable that there are no differences with the edges of the plate if it is not built into the cabinet. The blocks are connected to each other with ties.

If it is planned to install a common countertop, then the cabinets are mounted without it, and this element is laid on top only after the cabinets are connected. The front doors must be hung last and leveled in height.

After mounting the lower tier, hang upper cabinets. To maintain the same distance between them and the table top, measure a comfortable height at which the bottom of the hanging elements will be located, and draw a straight line, leveling it. Determine the places for the holes for the hooks, attach the fittings to the wall. For concrete walls, the safest and most reliable fastening is dowels, but in a wooden house it is better to prefer nails about 10 cm long. After installing the hooks, the cabinets are hung on the wall and the doors are attached to them.

The remaining elements of the updated kitchen are placed in pre-planned places. Shelves and racks are attached to the wall in the same way as wall cabinets.

What do you do with old furniture?

• Headset price: $1270
• Square:
• Layout:
• Furniture color:
• Facades: Plastic
• Style:
• Union: -
• Floor: Tile
• Apron: Tile
• Ceiling: -

Your repost will change the Internet :)

In general, something had to be done about it, and I decided to move the washer to the other end of the room and place it between the gas stove and the wall by the window. By advance taken measurements everything turned out “tuttle to tyutelka”: the width of the locker that had to be removed was 40 cm, the cars - 40 cm. easily trimmed, then with a typewriter, of course, nothing can be done. I had to hastily build a small pedestal (to the height of the pipe) and install a machine on it, but even then everything was very clear - it was time for repairs.

As it turned out later, the machine not only launched this inevitable process, but also became, perhaps, the main element that influenced the design and design of the future kitchen.

Initial data

So, what did I have at the start of this whole event. A kitchen with an area of ​​6.2 m2 (according to the data sheet), which has not been made for many years, even cosmetic repairs. The kitchen set has been standing like this since the time the house was commissioned, and this is already almost 40 years old. The window frame is old, wooden. The refrigerator is old and needs to be replaced. The gas stove is relatively new, but does not meet the requirements of the wife.

In general, from what was supposed to be taken from the old kitchen and transferred to the new one, only the microwave and the washing machine mentioned in the prologue remained.

It remains only to add that the old layout of the kitchen and the location of all the elements on it always seemed to me terribly inconvenient, not practical and not rational, and therefore I began to fight for every centimeter, for every piece of free space, and, looking ahead, I want to admit, that I got it.

General provisions

I won’t open America if I notice that before starting, it is necessary to create a project for the premises as a whole. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the room, as well as the position of existing communications. The thoughtless arrangement of light, sockets, water and sewerage, ventilation and other things in the early stages of repair, as a rule, does not make itself felt, but closer to the finish line it can be very striking, violating both the aesthetics and functionality of the room . So if you are not a professional, but consider yourself a "homemade" and believe in yourself, then start the repair by studying the basic data, so to speak, common truths. Find on the Internet and study articles from the category of "20 common mistakes when designing a kitchen", "", "a", etc. From them it will become clear what are standard sizes furniture, what are kitchen facades, at what height the wall row of cabinets is hung and what distance is recommended to be observed between it and the floor row.

Well, in order to finally start “drawing” cabinets on paper, you must either purchase all large free-standing and built-in household appliances in advance, or clearly imagine and know its installation dimensions and take it into account in the design. For what it is necessary and so it should be clear.

Design

Let's get back to my kitchen. As I wrote above, the choice of the concept of my headset was influenced by a washing machine, the main feature of which is the vertical loading of laundry. That is, unlike most washers, in my “working” is the upper plane, and all the rest can be hidden from the eyes of an outside observer. This is how the idea of ​​​​a corner kitchen was born, where the sides of the corner are cabinets, and the top is a typewriter. This arrangement is the most rational and gives maximum functionality.

In the picture above, you can already see a new window installed without a window sill and in a reduced opening. The old opening, in my opinion, was too large for such a room, and I refused the window sill, because I planned to fit the countertop in its place. At the same time, electrical wiring was done and socket blocks for household appliances were installed. Later, laying of tiles on the floor and walls, and wallpapering took place. I approached the final design of the headset with the following picture.

I took up drawing the kitchen in AutoCAD, because I was not trained in any PRO100, and I did not set myself such an initial goal. Although I will not hide the fact that if you master this specialized program, then in the future it will be according to your finished sizes lockers will make their detailing and even offer the best fastener. My AutoCAD drawing came out much simpler, but, at the same time, quite visual.

Editor's Note: You could also use . Special knowledge is not required for use - take it and draw.

Let's go over the main points regarding the lockers I got:

• I decided to put the floor row on decorative aluminum legs, with the possibility of adjusting them in height. In my opinion, aesthetically it looks better than a blank plinth, and besides, there is (albeit limited) access under the lockers (for a mop or rag, for visual inspection for leaks from the water supply or sewer). The presence of decorative legs must be taken into account when further detailing the cabinets (see detailing).
• Facades of cabinets 1 and 5.6 (in fact, this is one cabinet, like 2.3, just in original form I thought that it would be two lockers, but I already left the numbering as it is, so as not to change it) will open up with the help of gas elevators.

• The front of the drying cabinet (2,3) will open upwards using the aventos HF system.

• The doors of cabinets 4 (above the washer) and 8 (under the sink) will be hinged on ordinary door hinges with a conductor.
• An oven will be built into cabinet 9, so it will be hollow, there is only a small drawer under it for storing baking sheets and a grill grate.
• Cabinets 10.1-10.3 are three identical cabinets with drawers that will be pulled together with intersection bolts. Why drawers and not just shelves? The fact is that the contents of the retractable drawer are easy to look at. To get to things standing in the depths, it is not necessary to conduct archaeological excavations. Shelves, on the other hand, often turn into a "graveyard" of dishes and supplies, which the owners simply forget about.

Detailing and fittings

Let's imagine that the dimensions of your locker should be 600x700x300 mm. You take and order parts 600 wide, 700 high and 300 mm deep, and then you try to fit them. Naturally, you won’t get anything good at the end, because you don’t take into account the thickness of the part and how these parts will be joined together and located in the finished product. That's it for this and it is necessary to do detailing - separation finished product into its individual components.

Before I move on to a large table with ready-made parts for my kitchen, I will explain a few more points, what comes from where and how.

The height of the floor cabinet. The recommended standard height of the floor row is 860 mm. The thickness of the countertop is usually 28 or 38mm (I have 38mm). The height of decorative legs is from 70 mm and above (I have 100 mm). So it turns out that the height of the cabinet (the box itself) in my case is: 860 -38 - 100 = 722 mm. For the convenience of further calculations, I simply took 720 mm.

Drawers can be of several types:

• The drawer box is assembled from the same material as the rest of the kitchen (chipboard) and is mounted on roller or telescopic guides. As they say - cheap and cheerful.

• Metaboxes, tandemboxes, etc. In fact, these are ready-made boxes with fastening and adjustment systems, under which the bottom and back wall are only adjusted (cut out of chipboard). These systems are not cheap, but simple and easy to install. Plus they look very solid. Each manufacturer has schemes for calculating the installation dimensions, additive and installation of their tandemboxes. Be sure to download them from the Internet, or take them from sellers, study and proceed to detailing.

Gas lifts and aventos are mounted on top-row cabinets and are designed to open and hold facades by weight. In the construction market or in the store, the seller will advise you about these things, you just need to tell the material and dimensions of the facade that needs to be opened / held.

So, I present once again the scheme of the kitchen and the detailing that I got at the output.

Kitchen detailing (chipboard, plastic, fiberboard, countertop)

With this detailing, I went to the office that cuts and pasted chipboard, chose the materials that suited my taste and placed an order. For all the material with the work came out 660 dollars (of which 120 for the countertop).

While my order was being made, I was directly engaged in the purchase of all the necessary accessories, hardware, as well as household appliances. Everything I needed for the kitchen is shown in the table below.

Accessories, hardware, household appliances

As a result, the cost of the headset (without appliances) was $1270: facades, frames, fittings, countertops, glass.

Assembly of finished products

And now, a few days later, they brought me and unloaded a bunch of boards from laminated chipboard in front of the entrance, sprinkled plastic facades on top, added a couple of sheets of fiberboard and a 38-mm Egger countertop. I distributed all this goodness among the rooms of the apartment, having previously made the necessary sorting of the parts so that I knew exactly where and what closet I have

The most responsible, but at the same time, the most exciting part of the work begins - the assembly of finished products.

Equipment and tools for assembly

I need the following tools for my work:

• corner clamps (when working with confirmations, you can’t go anywhere without them). I bought cheap, flimsy ones on the market and reinforced them with two strips of chipboard. I assembled a kitchen with them, a wardrobe in the room, a chest of drawers and a shoe rack, and I will collect a lot of other things.

• Screwdriver + drill;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Special drill for confirmations (Euro couplers) and a hexagon bit;
• center punch (or awl) and a pair of pencils;
• joiner's corner, tape measure and rulers;
• A set of hammers and a mallet.

Before starting the assembly, I also made several templates for reaming parts for gluing onto wooden dowels, but immediately abandoned this idea in the process of work - confirmations securely and firmly tighten the product.

The collection of products should be carried out on a large flat flat surface and the better, the larger it is.

In order not to get confused in the process of working with the sides of the parts and their orientation, be sure to make marks on them with a pencil like “PR VN” (right sidewall outer side) or “Bottom”, i.e. so that you can understand.

I highly recommend marking and installing fasteners (for example, fasteners for gas lifts or adding telescopic guides for drawers) on individual parts, when they are not yet assembled in a box - you must agree that it is much more convenient to unfold a single part than to twist and turn every time there is a box on the table.

The algorithm of work is simple:

• marking with a square (ruler) and a pencil;
• pinning (possible with an awl or nail) a place for screwing;
• screw tightening.

I definitely advise you to screw it, because it’s impossible to just screw a screw into a laminated chipboard, it will scroll and slide off, which always causes considerable irritation.

When the markings for fasteners or additives are made, you can begin to assemble the box itself. Here, the main tools are angle clamps, a drill and a screwdriver.

We work on a similar algorithm:

• marking the place for drilling with a confirmation drill using a square (ruler) and a pencil;
• punching;
• fixing parts on corner clamps;
• drilling with a confirmation drill;
• tightening of details by confirmat.

The box is assembled, now it remains to hang the facade on it, attach the hanging loops to the wall and nail the back wall of fiberboard.

The facade is attached to the box on the door hinges without a closer. The holes in the facade for fastening the hinges are cut with a milling cutter with a diameter of 35 mm (in my case, this was taken care of by the office from which I ordered the parts).

Next, we attach mating parts to the facade for the installation of gas elevators and install the elevators themselves. Elevators can be installed in three positions, depending on which the facade will open at three different angles (less than 90, 90 and more than 90 degrees).

In the inner parts of the box we fasten the hinges for hanging.

At the finish, it remains to close the confirmations with plastic plugs, nail the back wall and attach a handle to the facade.

It turned out such a locker, which we will have located above the refrigerator.

Assembling cabinet No. 2,3 with aventos system

Aventos are different types and they are installed on different cabinets. For a drying cabinet, the most convenient is the aventos of the HF system (these are aventos for two facades that open simultaneously in an L-shaped upwards), which I purchased. Installing such a product in a locker is not easy, but it is not some kind of super task. Aventos always comes with detailed, intelligible instructions, following which you will definitely succeed. In my Kessebohmer aventos there was even a special "drilling map" of holes, which simply had to be applied to the lines drawn in advance on the sidewalls (calculated according to the formulas given in the instructions) and drilled directly into it.

We fasten power mechanisms with levers to the sidewalls.

Now it's time for the facades. The upper facade is cast, the lower with a glass cutout. The upper facade is attached to the cabinet on ordinary door hinges, the facades are connected to each other by special overhead Clip Top hinges (opening angle 120 degrees). In the picture below, they are shown by the upper red arrow. The lower arrow points to the holes for the hinges, which were mistakenly drilled on the sharag. I didn’t reprimand them much, but I solved the problem myself: I glued wooden rounds into the holes and painted them with white paint - anyway, with the aventos open, backside facade is not visible to the eye.

Reciprocal levels are also attached to the lower facade to snap levers onto them. Well, here's what it looks like assembled. It remains only to adjust the stroke of the levers and the position of the facades (everything is in the instructions). Drying cabinet No. 2.3 assembled.

Cabinet No. 5,6 in the process of being assembled

Now let's take three floor cabinets No. 10. Their main feature is the installation inside retractable systems (tandemboxes).

Again, I repeat, the whole process is carried out according to the additive schemes that are supplied with the product. First, guides are seated and attached to the sides of the cabinet.

Drawer mounted on rails. A latch is snapped into the upper hole, which is attached to the facade.

A latch attached to the front of the drawer.

The system is very convenient, because it allows you to simply remove the front from the drawer in case of emergency. Plus, tandemboxes are equipped with a system for adjusting the facades vertically and horizontally, which is especially convenient when there are a lot of drawers (I have 9 pieces) and you need to fit them together.

Fastening fronts to drawers

We drill holes in the facades and fasten the handles. You need to drill the facade with outside, and to the inside you need to firmly press a piece of some plank, then the drill at the exit from the chipboard will not crumble it and the hole will turn out to be even.

The cabinet with drawers is almost ready.

We complete the assembly of the cabinet by installing decorative aluminum legs. The legs consist of two parts: one (with an external thread) is attached to the bottom of the cabinet with self-tapping screws, the second (the legs themselves) is screwed onto the thread. This system allows you to adjust the height of the legs, for example, to compensate for small uneven floors.

The rest of the floor cabinets (under the sink, under the oven) are not particularly remarkable, their assembly is exactly the same. The only thing they differ from the rest is that there are no back walls in them (water and sewage pipes are required for the sink, and the oven needs a free ventilated space for hot air to circulate).

Kitchen installation

So, our products are assembled, now it's time to start installing the kitchen.

wall row

It is now customary to hang a wall row of cabinets not on ordinary blind hinges, but on special furniture hinges with a hook that clings to a metal profile bar screwed to the wall. The advantage of such hinges is that the cabinet already hung on the profile can be adjusted both in height and in depth, which is very convenient for placing the facades of adjacent cabinets in the same plane.

We hang the cabinets of the upper row and, using a screwdriver, adjust the hinges up and down, back and forth so that the facades of adjacent cabinets are in the same plane, and the cabinets themselves hang in level.

bottom row

We tightly compose the cabinets of the floor row, adjust them in height (twisting / unscrewing the legs) and tighten them with intersection bolts.

We cover the cabinets with a countertop and from below, through the side rails (cross bars), we fix the countertop with self-tapping screws. You can also resort to the help of corners.

On the countertop we mark out places for embedding the sink and hob, drill a through hole so that you can insert a jigsaw blade and cut out pieces of the countertop.

We cover the holes of the countertop with a layer of silicone sealant, and also apply sealant to the front side of the countertop along the edge of the hole. We insert the sink and remove the squeezed out excess sealant with a rubber spatula. The same must be done for the hob, but only a heat-resistant sealant is needed.

Bottom row assembled. The tabletop on the right row is tightly fitted to the window.

Well, here's how it all looks together.

Installation of kitchen ceiling and bar counter

The next stage of work was the installation of the kitchen ceiling and bar counter. The kitchen is small, there is not much space on it, so the choice was made in favor of the bar counter, and not the traditional table, the place for which was left only at the entrance to the room, which, you see, is generally inconvenient.

Especially for the ceiling, four parts were cut out of chipboard (the same from which the cabinets were assembled). Two pieces were made with rounding, which will be the completion of the ceiling. The parts were attached to the wall using thickened corners and self-tapping screws, but the bulk of the ceiling lay on the top row cabinets. Nothing complicated.

For the bar counter, a piece of the same Egger tabletop measuring 2000x400 mm was cut, the edge of which was also made with a radius. It turned out that the rack and the ceiling element above it have identical dimensions.

We drill holes (14x170) in the table top and put them on hidden shelf supports, previously fixed along the free wall.

Usually the recommended installation height of the bar counter is approximately 1100 mm from the floor, but it turned out a little higher for me. The height of my rack was adjusted so that in free space a microwave oven could fit between it and the floor next to it. It somehow turned out like this.

A little later, railing pipes with various hooks, spice jars and trays will appear above and below the counter.

Well, the 50th rack / ceiling completed the whole composition chrome pipe with holder for glasses and a shelf for fruits. Under the rack on the pipe I installed a holder with hooks for towels.

While the ordered bar stools were moving, I slightly upgraded the wall above the counter by making for it the most expensive painting I could.

Well, here's what actually came out of it. Railing pipes with hooks are already in place, plus lamps were cut into the ceiling and another holder for glasses was added.

What happened in the end

That's it, my kitchen with my own hands is now ready.

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