Is it possible to dig a septic tank inside the ground loop. How to make grounding in the country: do-it-yourself grounding with metal parts. Connecting the circuit according to the TN-C-S scheme

To secure your own private house safe power supply system, it is necessary in the process of its reconstruction or during new scheme electrical wiring take into account the grounding system. It should be noted that the installation of grounding in a private house with your own hands 220v is not a very complicated process. Especially when compared with installation in an apartment building. And although everyone understands why protective grounding is needed, not everyone does it. Therefore, we will consider the design in full, and at the same time we will answer the question of how to make a ground loop for a country house.

Grounding device on the street near the house

The device of the ground loop in a private house is the pins driven into the ground vertically, which are tied together with conductors. And this whole structure is connected to the switchboard in the house. Before you make grounding in a private house, you need to prepare necessary tools and materials.

Of the tools you will need shovels, crowbar, sledgehammer, hammer, welding machine with electrodes, grinder, spanners. From materials:

• metal corner with dimensions 50x50x5 mm;
• steel tape 40 mm wide and 4 mm thick;
• metal wire rod with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

Purely in its design, the house ground loop is an equilateral triangle, into the corners of which metal ground electrodes are driven in. For this, a metal corner is used. The driving depth is 2.5-3.0 m. You can do this yourself with an ordinary sledgehammer. If the soil in the area is solid, then you can first make a deepening with a drill to a depth of 1.5 m, and then finish off the corners with a sledgehammer.

The installation process must begin with applying the dimensions and shape of the ground loop to the ground. After that, a trench up to 60 cm wide is dug around the entire perimeter, so that it is convenient to carry out welding, and 80-100 cm deep. Ground electrodes are driven in. In order for the process of entering the corners into the ground without problems, it is recommended to sharpen their ends under a cone. It is not necessary to hammer all the way, it is necessary that the edges of the pins remain sticking out above the bottom of the trenches, approximately 20-30 cm.

Now it is necessary to dock the corners with each other by horizontal elements of the ground loop. For this, it is used metal tape. The connection is made only by electric welding. No bolts that will corrode underground, and this is a partial or complete lack of contact, which will lead to inefficient grounding in a country house.

The next stage is the connection of the circuit made with the switchboard in the house. To do this, you can use either a wire rod or the same metal strip. In the yard, the connecting circuit is carried out in a trench, inside the house along a wall or plinth. At the end of the conductor that entered the house, an M6 or M8 bolt is welded. A ring of wire responsible for the internal grounding of a private house will be put on it. Fastening is made with a similar nut. Seams may need to be insulated.

Attention! Metal fittings cannot be used as elements of the ground loop. Its outer layer is hardened, which disrupts the uniform distribution of current over the entire profile section. In addition, rebar in the ground rusts faster.

Places of welding must be treated with anti-corrosion compounds. But it is forbidden to paint or cover the entire contour with some kind of protective compounds. Because the system requires full contact with the ground, where stray currents will go.

On this, the installation of the ground loop for a private house can be considered complete. Therefore, make sure that the welding joints are strong, after which it is necessary to dig trenches with shovels. By the way, this technology can also be used to build a lightning rod (lightning rod). Here is a grounding device in a private house you can do yourself.

It should be noted that correct form grounding a private house is not necessarily a triangle. You can use square, circle, line and other shapes. It is important that the circuit itself does not create resistance, therefore maximum amount there were as many grounding conductors driven deep into the earth and their horizontal counterparts as possible. Although the triangle is a time-tested option. And one more important point - the distance from the home circuit of the grounding system to the foundation of the house should not be less than one meter.

Connection in the electrical panel

Usually meals in private houses electric shock carried out air lines power lines. Therefore, the input to the house is made with two wires: phase and zero. Their grounding system is based on the TN-C scheme, in which the installed neutral circuit, which is also the grounding one, is connected to a common neutral in a transformer substation.

Since your house is equipped with a grounding system, the connection can be made according to two different schemes:

1. TN-C to TN-C-S;
2. TN-C to TT.

Connecting the circuit according to the TN-C-S scheme

A do-it-yourself grounding system for a private house according to the TN-C scheme is, as a rule, a two-wire wiring, in which one wire is a phase, the second zero performs two functions at once: a working conductor N and protective PE. To transfer to the TN-C-S scheme, it is necessary to install an additional bus inside the switchboard. It must have metal contact with the electrical panel housing. Will be attached to it neutral wire mains and a conductor from a new ground loop, assembled by hand.

The new bus must be connected to the bus to which the neutral wire N was connected, leaving the house. In this case, there should be no contact between the N bus and the shield. In fact, this will work out, because a dielectric terminal block is installed in the shield on the bus, through which the connection is made. By the way, the phase wire is also isolated from the elements of the switchboard and its housing.

The last step, how to properly ground in a private house using the TN-C-S system, is to interconnect a new tire and ground loop. Usually, a copper stranded cable with a cross section of at least 4 mm² is used for this, one end of which is attached to the shield, the other to a bolt welded to the end of the grounding conductor at the entrance to the house.

TT connection

The scheme is similar to the grounding of a house according to the TN-C-S system, but it also has striking differences. In the TT connection system, the incoming PEN conductor, carrying a dual load (neutral and earth), is connected to a busbar that is isolated from contact with the switchboard. As, in principle, and a phase conductor. The neutral wire leaving the house will be connected to it.

A ground wire coming out of the house is connected to an uninsulated bus, which is not connected to other buses. The ground electrode coming from the street ground loop is also connected here. The connection is made with a copper cable with a minimum cross section of 10 mm². That is, it turns out that all the wires pass through different circuits and are connected to each other only in household appliances.

A distinctive feature of the TT earthing system, its positive side- this is the separation of two circuits: zero and ground. There is one negative point in the TN-C-S system - when the PEN wire burns out, electricity will go through the least resistance, that is, through the protective ground itself. And this is fraught with big troubles. The minimum that can happen is a short circuit in the wiring, household appliances may burn out. As much as possible - here and the fire is not so far away.

Grounding in a private house according to the TT system guarantees complete safety in any non-standard situations. And even if the PEN conductor burns out, then there will simply be no electricity in the house, because the grounding network passes through a separate circuit. And it has nothing to do with zero. Therefore, choosing a grounding system for a TT house (mounted with your own hands), you can be sure of its complete safety.

Grounding check

Grounding in wooden house or brick ready, you need to check it. What do I need to do?

• We dismantle any socket in the house.
• Take your multimeter and set it to voltage mode.
• We connect the wires of the phase and zero with the probes of the device. The voltage value in the network should appear.
• Then the phase and ground are connected. The device should show a slightly different (reduced) voltage value than in the previous paragraph.

All this can be done with the help of a control light. All the same manipulations in which the light bulb should burn brightly when the phase is connected to zero, and dimmer when the phase is connected to the ground. This is how you can answer the question of how to check the grounding in a private house.

In connection with the do-it-yourself grounding device at home, private home owners and newly minted developers often face some problems that they cannot solve on their own. For example, do-it-yourself grounding in a private house (380v of input voltage). Are there any particularities in the installation? There are no special features because three-phase connection inside the house it is divided into single-phase circuits, which are evenly scattered throughout the building. For example, one phase is on for lighting, the second for sockets, the third closes, for example, to a boiler. The house has to be grounded along one circuit. That is, the ground wire coming out of the house is connected to the bus, where the ground electrode was connected from the street. At the same time, inside the premises, the ground loop connects all sockets and powerful household appliances to each other, as separate consumers.

Is it possible to make grounding in the house using a basement or cellar for this? There are no problems here either. The main thing is that the grounding in the basement (cellar) is completely in the ground so that the resistance of the structure is minimal. In this case, the cellar will be an ideal place (wet floor and soil that conduct current well), the only requirement for it is to close the installation site of the circuit with protective devices, for example, lay wooden lattices on the floor.

Conclusion on the topic

When installing a grounding scheme in a private house with your own hands for 220v, you must be aware that this is a security measure. And no matter what costs you have to do, you should not worry that family budget incurs losses. It will pay off handsomely, because health and life are more expensive. Therefore, you should not hesitate to do grounding in a private house or not. The answer is positive - you need to do grounding without delay. For grounding, you should not skimp, but how it is done is described in detail.

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

04.05.2009, 12:08

Good afternoon everyone .. As a matter of fact, two questions.
1. There is a basement, so far only an earthen floor. In the future, I will do a screed. Can I make grounding in the basement under the screed? If so, what kind (a frame made of a welded corner, reinforcement bars hammered into the ground or some kind of plate)? How deep below the screed?

2. There is a single-phase network on the poles. I want to bring into the house a copper cable designed for maximum power. I apologize if I'm using the wrong terminology. Tell me the brands of wires, the sections that can be used for external wiring and for internal wiring.
Thanks in advance.

04.05.2009, 12:24

Grounding in the basement is quite possible to do. A dozen or two pins (corners) at least 3-4 meters long, driven completely into the ground along the perimeter of the house (than more area cover the better) and connected to each other by an iron bus. All connections are either bolted or welded. IMHO it is not difficult to do this outside the house under the blind area.

Green cat

04.05.2009, 13:16

1) It’s better not to do it in the basement))) it will happen that you will manually measure the step voltage (spreading) between the floor and the walls. Strictly take out into the courtyard and no tricks inside the contour of the building!
2) It is best to lead to the house with aluminum (because there is also aluminum on the pole), but after the first machine (which will act as an aluminum-copper adapter) copper. SIP (5) rules for the corresponding current!

04.05.2009, 17:03

Another argument against grounding in the basement is that the soil is dry there, well, or much drier than outside, therefore the resistance to the earth's body is greater. And the task of grounding is to connect with that body. Although there was a mention of grounding through the reinforcement of a monolithic foundation: roll:

04.05.2009, 20:37

That's why the pins are made long so that they get to the level ground water and were always wet. The truth is to hammer them in the basement ...

And what can happen to apply kilovolts to the ground? Only lightning and that for a short time. It does not matter where to measure it with steps - in the basement or on the street. And at the same time apply 220V to the ground and at the same time so that the machine does not knock out and at the same time so that there is a step voltage on the ground ... do not tell fairy tales, my dear.

What does grounding have to do with machines? The machine should in no case open the ground. And if you make it from aluminum, then you need a flat tire with a rather large cross section. Expensive and unnecessary. Usually they are made from iron strip, spreading with copper only at end consumers.

Green cat

04.05.2009, 21:10

Enough of the lightning, not to mention the zero break (just the machine will not knock out, and there will be 220V on the ground) ... given that sometimes the basement is wet, etc. - increased danger is guaranteed in a place where you do not expect it.
-----------
The second question actually related to connecting the house-pillar network: D

04.05.2009, 22:43

220 to ground is a very bad ground. This time. Secondly, to protect against a break in zero, an RCD is installed. And thirdly, all normal devices should not use grounding as a replacement for zero. Grounding as protection against breakdown on the case is used and only. Just the RCD protects against this as well.

04.05.2009, 23:58

It is possible, the more and lower - the better.
It is possible, through steel nuts ... How much power they give, it is designed for that.

Green cat

05.05.2009, 01:07

And thirdly, all normal devices should not use grounding as a replacement for zero
In the event of a break in the zero supply of the wiring formed according to the TNCS scheme, the zero current will go exactly to the ground (if there really is no RCD or divider), if the ground in the yard is pofik ...
Previously, electricity was stolen this way - they connected the meter "incorrectly" and forced the current through in the current winding back (or not to flow at all).

05.05.2009, 10:27

I myself stole electricity in my time. I repeat once again - a normally made grounding and a voltage of 220V will not create a dangerous step voltage on the ground. And if all those in contact with the ground are connected to the ground loop metal objects in the basement, then the difference in potential, which will create unpleasant sensations, simply does not arise. Nowhere. For more than 10 kW of power is not allocated to the house, and grounding has the least resistance at depth.

The only difficulty is driving long pins in the basement. Elementary height of the ceiling will interfere. If only to collect pins from pieces a meter and a half long, connected by thread. I saw this technology. With a large perforator, experts thus drove a pin 10-15 meters long. One or two were enough to ground an office high-rise building.

05.05.2009, 11:38

Do not hammer inside .. Make a contour outside. Don't forget pr re-grounding on a support

07.05.2009, 18:02

The only difficulty is driving long pins in the basement. ............ pin 10-15 meters long.
It's okay to scare you then :wink:
It's not a lightning rod... 2-3 meters is enough...

22.05.2009, 06:42

By grounding. The main requirement for grounding in 220V networks is to ensure a resistance of no more than 8 ohms at any time of the year (summer-winter), so the driving depth is required not 3-5 meters and ....., but more than the freezing depth. In our case, this is the basement, i.e. freezing there as such is not at all (most likely). Based on this, it is not at all necessary to drive pieces of iron to a depth of 3 m or more, especially before reaching some key or other artesian waters. Another thing is, if the soil is sand like in sugar, then you really need to go deeper. If the soil is ordinary and at least a little wet, a meter will be enough. How many pins do you need to forget? - again it depends on the soil, if it is ordinary, then 5-6 are enough, connected by welding with a magpie tape, naturally metal. It doesn’t make sense to place the pins between each other (grounding is calculated according to the principle of adding the resistances of the grounding conductors as a connection of parallel resistances, and the farther they are located between each other, the more the resistance of the buses connecting the grounding conductors increases, i.e. we increase the grounding resistance ourselves. About the step voltage, this is unlikely whether.
it is necessary to pour water on the floor and walk barefoot, so that there is not a single machine gun.

22.05.2009, 06:47

27.06.2009, 19:43

By the way, it will be difficult for lightning to get into the ground in the basement, it can get into the wires, but there is protection for that.

Oh, and porridge in the head of the one who wrote this. Internet trouble. They read, they don’t really understand anything, and then they teach others. Horror.

06.08.2009, 15:21

According to my project, grounding is done in the basement ...
the area of ​​the electrodes depends on the total load, the soil and the "water temperature in the Indian Ocean".
in my case, 4 out of 1.5 electrodes are driven into the floor inch pipe 3 meters long each
everything is scalded with a bus, it is brought out by a bus to the shield, which is also located in the basement, because the entrance to the house is made underground.
a waterproofing was made on top of the tire and a plate was cast.
Grounding fields for household networks are very often made under buildings ...
about the step voltage was written by a person with little knowledge of the issue.
there is no step voltage, there is a slight rise in the potential of the soil under the building in the presence of SIGNIFICANT !!! leakage to the ground ... although at the same time RCDs and automata should already work

In general, those who doubt it should open a textbook on life safety for communication institutes, everything is written there in detail about the calculation and arrangement of the ground loop.

12.08.2009, 15:41

Green cat

12.08.2009, 16:03

13.08.2009, 10:21

I have a question, why do you write that you used to steal electricity like that, and that it’s impossible now. The status does not allow, or did the electricians come up with something from this?
And now the meters are electronic ... they don’t care where the phase flows.

13.08.2009, 10:35

At normal conditions there is no voltage on the ground at all - no :D

It was about the fact that if lightning strikes, and someone is in the basement, they will fry him ...

The fact is that in order to fry, you need a potential difference
if grounding is done by field, i.e. If the electrodes are clogged along the perimeter of the basement, then when a lightning strikes, the potential of the earth rises evenly ... well ... there is a chance to fry ... but with a low resistance of the earth - very small ...

Although those who have grounding in the basement probably have a separate circuit placed outside the building, lightning protection

AlexeyN

13.08.2009, 11:25

And now the meters are electronic ... they don’t care where the phase flows.

Neither electromechanical nor electronic counters - phasing does not care at all. To do this, it was necessary to change the phase with zero on the column. Since the measuring element is only in the phase circuit - zero on the counters always went through the feed-through terminal - with the circuits reversed, the current will go past the coil. And there are no legal ways to give up the phase with zero - everything should be sealed there. They will catch - they will insert caps.

AlexeyN

13.08.2009, 11:29

Although those who have grounding in the basement probably have a separate circuit placed outside the building, lightning protection

A separate lightning protection circuit can now only be used for industrial buildings apply, in residential - grounding is used in common. This is a trend that came from European norms and the regulations for it are being slowly straightened out. The bottom line is that during a lightning strike, the problem of igniting structures is secondary - and protecting a person from high potential is primary. Which is solved just by the general potential equalization circuit. To hell with it, there will be kilovolts in the network of a relatively clean earth - but relative to the surrounding structures, the potential will be moderate. Including technology will survive.

13.08.2009, 12:14

It is possible and so... only the lightning protection bus (welded steel strip) should be run through fireproof structures outside the building... and connected to a common field. because here, unlike Europe, human life is in second place among firefighters:wink:

This applies to industrial buildings as well.

AlexeyN

13.08.2009, 12:16

Of course, it’s permissible, it’s just that for industrial buildings the dimensions are somewhat different - and as such there is no potential equalization circuit there - there are somehow connected metal constructions. By the way, for the same reason, in most cases the TN-C system is used.

13.08.2009, 21:33

I don’t need about lightning rods in our village, no one has it, even I think the chief power engineer, Uncle Vasya, controls us when they wind their tails and then they come running to look at the meter, our meters with a wheel, as I understand it, are clearly not electronic the only thing electricians are proud of is that they are with a ratchet i.e. they don’t spin back. So tell me if the ground is connected to the neutral wire, I read this as an honest citizen here on this site, the meter is obliged by some laws to stop or not, and the light should naturally glow. The fact that he will stop will be enough. I need to know YES or NO.

AlexeyN

13.08.2009, 21:46

naturally NO

13.08.2009, 22:04

Ah, what a cunning Ashot!... :D:D

14.08.2009, 09:06

I don’t know about you ... but with us, if suddenly for some reason the counter stops and this reason is you ... and Uncle Vasya will cut it .....
then popandos for 50,000 rupees is provided ....
and the amount will be decided by the court ...
including cheating is more expensive ;-)

16.08.2009, 19:55

AlexeyN

16.08.2009, 21:43

Here is the phrase Theme "... for some reason it will stop" still reassures me. As a member of the Komsomol since 1986, I promise the whole community not to abuse it, and rather, if possible, I will keep IT just in case anything could be a crisis on yard. The soul somehow warms the fact that you have a cherished button.

We also have such a fucking optimizer - every month the balance does not converge for a thousand rubles. Let's find and clean the snout, so that it would be disrespectful in the future.

Green cat

16.08.2009, 22:06

We also have such a fucking optimizer
If smart figs catch ...

So I thought - there are a lot of ways to steal a cloud.
And if, smartly, when a relay is installed that is powered by "official 220V" and as soon as the switch is cut down, then the "outlet" disappears, then you can only find it by constant monitoring.

16.08.2009, 22:39

I have an idea for the night turned on in the morning turned off, in the afternoon there is nothing. And how do you know that 1000 rubles is not enough. We don’t have a “common” counter on the street, and there’s not a lot of things in the village, if many drunks simply throw wires on and drown at night and come across when I forgot from a hangover in the morning, the controller jumped and the wires hang, so he scolded you would at least cover it with something, and the fine is 50,000 rubles, so there’s nothing to take from him, they took the maximum wire, and if you get caught several times, they turn off the light, well, it was once or twice, and even then the owner sent the chief local power engineer to 3 letters.

AlexeyN

16.08.2009, 23:03

Well, it was two times, and even then the owner of the oborzel sent the chief local power engineer for 3 letters.

The village, excuse me, chmoshnikov ... thank God that my house is not in your village.

18.08.2009, 09:38

AlexeyN +1.

Ashot ... buy a wind generator .... just a warm soul and a torn asshole
do not fit into one picture

27.09.2009, 17:57

Please advise. Is it possible to connect a grounded wire to zero. Is it a violation or not.

Green cat

27.09.2009, 19:49

There is different schemes grounding: according to some, the earth is connected to zero, according to others - no.

Conventional TNCS: zero and ground are connected on the input shield bus (but then again they are divorced separately).

Look at the topics - somewhere even exhibited drawings.

27.09.2009, 20:47

I have a wire coming from the pole, connected to the electric meter, the meter just hangs on the wall in the corridor, from the meter, through two plugs, two wires go into the room. So the question is, can I connect the ground to the zero plug?

Green cat

27.09.2009, 21:07

Grounding, that in sockets - no.

28.09.2009, 08:20

And where on Soviet sockets there is grounding and plugs, too, and where they were occasionally, no one connected them. I now see a new model, but no one uses grounding, only craftsmen use it to rewind the light.

28.09.2009, 10:28

Ashot, you don't need sockets with grounding for 220 V...

AlexeyN

28.09.2009, 10:37

Alternative gifted Russian electricians did not connect. And who has brains - connected. So you don't have to push everyone.

Green cat

28.09.2009, 10:55

Well, how did they connect? - if you connect the ground contact of the socket with zero, then you get zeroing.

It would, of course, be nothing if an alternative power supply were available ... and it’s not uncommon to weigh zero volts by 20, or when an adjacent phase goes to zero.

And mother earth - she is always neutral, for example in the bathroom :twisted:

AlexeyN

28.09.2009, 11:07

Didn't understand anything. Single-phase sockets with grounding have appeared relatively recently. Until now, the sea of ​​power grids has been and remains on TN-C-S, and even TN-C. And in industry, in general, the neutral wire is periodically planted on the body of the cabinet, which itself sits on some steel column.

In this case, if the wiring was already altered, they threw a protective conductor from the body of the floor shield.

28.09.2009, 11:58

I have an idea for the night turned on in the morning turned off, in the afternoon there is nothing. And how do you know that 1000 rubles is not enough.
Since I am close to this, I can say that the network company is losing billions of rubles from people like you. There is nothing left but to raise tariffs, and ask for huge money for joining :(
I don’t see this money because you steal somehow in parallel, but because the price of electricity is growing and then someone is offered to connect for half a lama (there are no materials, the budget of branches is cut) it’s a shame.

28.09.2009, 12:19

...
What does it mean - 220 is not needed?
If only 220 is connected to the house - no need ...

AlexeyN

28.09.2009, 12:21

You can argue until you're blue in the face

28.09.2009, 12:34

28.09.2009, 13:33

I didn’t master it either ... why is it not necessary at 220?
But what about all sorts of RCDs

28.09.2009, 19:26

The best minds of grounding and the entire power supply have gathered, but no one can specifically say whether it would be a violation of the law to connect the ground before the zero plug on the meter, or interpret the law as you like? Otherwise, I won’t be surprised if Chubais himself gets involved in our disputes and regrets how we Ashots are ripping off our native state for billions, and because of us Sayano-Shushenskaya flew away. And that it’s so easy to steal from one of the richest organizations that you lose billions, it’s just wonderful to me .

Deciding to organize grounding on your suburban area, you may encounter such a problem: there is no place for mounting a “bulky” circuit. Around beds, flower beds or a lawn that you don’t want to spoil. How to proceed?

One solution to this situation is to install grounding in the basement. To dispel all doubts about the correctness of the chosen solution, it is worth noting right away that regulations(for example, "PUE") do not contain any prohibitions on installing grounding in the basement. In addition, this method has a number of advantages over the “outer loop”:

• stable operation of the ground electrode system and equipment due to the constant level of ground resistance. The heat emanating from the internal communications of the house will prevent the soil from freezing and increasing its resistivity;
• saving space on the site. A particularly important advantage for holdings of a small area. Excavation work can be carried out on the entire site without fear of damaging the underground structure of the ground electrode system;
• ease of connection. Grounding in the basement is easy to place in close proximity to the shield, so it will be convenient to connect it to the ground bus. The cable is also saved - a trifle, but nice.

How to make grounding in the basement?

Consider the installation of grounding in the basement on the example of a kit ... This kit consists of four one and a half meter steel copper-plated pins, connecting elements, a dowel for mounting and a clamp for connecting a grounding conductor.

The advantages of the ZZ-6 set over traditional earthing switches are obvious:

• absolute resistance to corrosion for decades thanks to world-class components;
• no welding required. The pins are connected to each other by means of sealing bushings. A bolt clamp is used to connect the ground conductor;
• minimum area and minimum excavation. This is achieved due to the design of the ground electrode - one vertical electrode;
• simple installation. Diving into the ground is carried out with a conventional manual sledgehammer by one person.

If the house is under construction, then it is better to take care of grounding in advance. In case of strip foundation the earthing switch is installed in such called “ sand cushion” Directly in that part of the future house where the electrical panel will be located.

Installation steps:

1. Install the first pin in the ground. Insert the dowel into the pin hole

2. Deepen the pin into the ground, striking the pin with a sledgehammer.

3. Remove the dowel and put the sleeve on the mounted pin (wide part down). Insert the second pin with the pointed part into the mounted pin with the sleeve put on.

4. Deepen the second pin by striking with a sledgehammer. The connection is self-pressing during installation.

5. Repeat steps 1-4 until a ground electrode of the desired depth is obtained. The last pin must be left 20 cm above the ground. The sleeve is not put on the last recessed pin.

6. Connect the ground resistance meter. Make measurements.

7. Install the clamp for connecting the grounding conductor and, having connected the conductor itself, tighten the clamp bolts with maximum force

8. Grounding installed!

In the case of a monolithic foundation, grounding should be established before pouring concrete. If the foundation is already filled, you can punch a hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters and install a ground electrode in it. For an aesthetic appearance and future access to grounding, a special ZANDZ inspection well can be installed on top of the hole.

Of course, there are also restrictions on installing grounding in the basement. These may include, for example, high resistivity soil or high density soil. In this case, the installation of a six-meter electrode will not be sufficient to achieve the required level of ground resistance, or it may be difficult to install with a manual sledgehammer. The way out of both situations is to install a ground electrode based on. Thanks to connections based on threaded couplings, the installation of such grounding is carried out using a jackhammer, which in turn allows the grounding electrode to be immersed to a great depth.

Do you need help installing grounding and lightning protection? Hundreds of qualified employees are at your service, ready to fulfill your order! Leave a request right now!

Modern household appliances and equipment require grounding. Only in this case, manufacturers will maintain their warranties. The inhabitants of the apartments have to wait for the overhaul of networks, and the owners of houses can do everything with their own hands. How to make grounding in a private house, what is the procedure and connection diagrams - read about all this here.

In general, ground loops can be in the form of a triangle, rectangle, oval, line or arc. The best option for a private house - a triangle, but others are quite suitable.

Grounding in a private house - types of ground loops

Triangle

Grounding in a private house or in the country is most often done with a contour in the form of an isosceles triangle. Why is that? Because with such a structure on a minimum area, we obtain the maximum area of ​​​​dissipation of currents. The costs for the installation of a ground loop are minimal, and the parameters correspond to the ratings.

The minimum distance between the pins in the ground loop triangle is their length, the maximum is twice the length. For example, if you drive the pins to a depth of 2.5 meters, then the distance between them should be 2.5-5.0 m. In this case, when measuring the resistance of the ground loop, you will get normal readings.

During work, it is not always possible to make the triangle strictly isosceles - stones come across in the right place or other impenetrable areas of soil. In this case, you can move the pins.

Linear ground loop

In some cases, it is easier to make a ground loop in the form of a semicircle or a chain of pins lined up (if there is no free area of ​​suitable sizes). In this case, the distance between the pins is also equal to or greater than the length of the electrodes themselves.

With a linear circuit, it is necessary more vertical electrodes - so that the scattering area is sufficient

The disadvantage of this method is to get desired parameters necessary large quantity vertical electrodes. Since scoring them is still a pleasure, in the presence of meta they try to make a triangular outline.

Materials for the ground loop

In order for the grounding of a private house to be effective, its resistance should not exceed 4 ohms. To do this, it is necessary to ensure good contact of the ground electrodes with the ground. The problem is that it is possible to measure the grounding resistance only with a special device. This procedure is carried out when the system is put into operation. If the parameters are worse, the act is not signed. Therefore, when making the grounding of a private house or cottage with your own hands, try to strictly adhere to the technology.

Parameters and materials of pins

Ground pins are usually made of ferrous metal. Most often, a bar with a cross section of 16 mm or more or a corner with parameters of 50 * 50 * 5 mm (shelf 5 cm, metal thickness - 5 mm) is used. Please note that fittings cannot be used - its surface is hardened, which changes the distribution of currents, besides, it quickly rusts and collapses in the ground. You need a bar, not reinforcement.

Another option for dry regions is thick-walled metal pipes. Their lower part is flattened in the form of a cone, holes are drilled in the lower third. Holes of the required length are drilled for their installation, since they cannot be hammered. When the soil dries up and the grounding parameters deteriorate, they are poured into the pipes brine- to restore the scattering ability of soils.

The length of the ground rods is 2.5-3 meters. This is sufficient for most regions. More specifically, there are two requirements:

Specific grounding parameters can be calculated, but the results of a geological study are required. If you have any, you can order a calculation in a specialized organization.

What to make a metal bond and how to connect with pins

All pins of the circuit are interconnected by a metal bond. It can be made from:

• copper wire with a cross section of less than 10 mm 2;
• aluminum wire with a cross section of at least 16 mm 2
• steel conductor with a cross section of at least 100 mm 2 (usually a strip of 25 * 5 mm).

Most often, the pins are interconnected using a steel strip. It is welded to the corners or heads of the bar. It is very important that the quality of the weld be high - it depends on whether your grounding passes the test or not (whether it meets the requirements - the resistance is less than 4 ohms).

When using aluminum or copper wire, a large cross-section bolt is welded to the pins, wires are already attached to it. The wire can be screwed onto the bolt and pressed with a washer and nut, the wire can be terminated with a connector right size. The main task is the same - to ensure good contact. Therefore, do not forget to strip the bolt and wire to bare metal (can be sanded) and tighten it well - for good contact.

How to make grounding with your own hands

After all the materials have been purchased, you can proceed to the actual manufacture of the ground loop. First, cut the metal into pieces. Their length should be approximately 20-30 cm longer than the calculated one - when driving in the tops, the pins bend, so they have to be cut off.

Sharpen clogged edges of vertical electrodes - things will go faster

There is a way to reduce the resistance when clogging the electrodes - sharpen one end of the corner or pin at an angle of 30 °. This angle is optimal when driving into the ground. The second moment is to weld a metal platform to the upper edge of the electrode, from above. Firstly, it is easier to hit it, and secondly, the metal is less deformed.

Work order

Regardless of the shape of the contour, everything starts with earthworks. A ditch needs to be dug. It is better to make it with beveled edges - so it is less sprinkled. The order of work is as follows:

Actually, that's all. Do-it-yourself grounding in a private house. It remains to connect it. To do this, you need to understand the grounding organization schemes.

Entering the ground loop into the house

The ground loop must somehow be brought to the ground bus. This can be done using a steel strip 24 * 4 mm, copper wire section 10 mm2, aluminum wire section 16 mm2.

In the case of using wires, it is better to look for them in insulation. Then a bolt is welded to the circuit, a sleeve with a contact pad (round) is put on the end of the conductor. A nut is screwed onto the bolt, a washer is screwed onto it, then a wire, another washer on top, and all this is tightened with a nut (picture on the right).

How to bring "land" into the house

When using a steel strip, there are two ways out - to bring a bus or wire into the house. I really don’t want to pull a steel tire with a size of 24 * 4 mm - the view is unaesthetic. If there is, you can use the same bolted connection run a copper bus. It needs a much smaller size, it looks better (photo on the left).

You can also make the transition from a metal bus to copper wire(section 10 mm2). In this case, two bolts are welded to the tire at a distance of several centimeters from each other (5-10 cm). Copper wire is twisted around both bolts, pressing them with a washer and nut to the metal (tighten as best as possible). This is the most economical and convenient way. It does not require as much money as when using only copper / aluminum wire, it is easier to pass it through the wall than a bus (even copper).

Grounding schemes: which one is better to do

AT this moment in the private sector, only two ground connection schemes are used - TN-C-S and TT. For the most part, a two-core (220 V) or four-core (380 V) cable (TN-C system) is suitable for the house. With such wiring, in addition to the phase (phase) wires, a PEN protective conductor comes, in which zero and earth are combined. At the moment, this method does not provide adequate protection against electric shock, therefore it is recommended to replace the old two-wire wiring with three-wire (220 V) or five-wire (380 V).

In order to obtain a normal three- or five-wire wiring, it is necessary to separate this conductor to ground PE and neutral N (in this case, an individual ground loop is required). They do this in the introductory cabinet on the facade of the house or in the accounting and distribution cabinet inside the house, but always before the counter. Depending on the separation method, either the TN-C-S or TT system is obtained.

Device in a private house of the TN-C-S grounding system

When using this circuit, it is very important to make a good individual ground loop. Please note that with the TN-C-S system, the installation of RCDs and difavtomatov is necessary to protect against electric shock. Without them, there is no protection.

Also, to ensure protection, it is required to connect to the earth bus with separate wires (inseparable) all systems that are made of conductive materials - heating, water supply, foundation reinforcing cage, sewerage, gas pipeline (if they are made of metal pipes). Therefore, the ground bus must be taken "with a margin."

To separate the PEN conductor and create a ground in a private house TN-C-S, three tires are needed: on metal base- it will be a PE (earth) bus, and on a dielectric base - it will be an N (neutral) bus, and a small splitter bus into four “seats”.

The metal "earth" bus must be attached to the metal case of the cabinet so that there is a good electrical contact. To do this, at the attachment points, under the bolts, the paint is peeled off the body to bare metal. Zero bus - on a dielectric base - it is better to mount it on a DIN rail. This installation method fulfills the main requirement - after the bus separation, PE and N should not intersect anywhere (they should not have contact).

Grounding in a private house - transition from TN-C systems on TN-C-S

• The PEN conductor that came from the line is wound up on the splitter bus.
• We connect the wire from the ground loop to the same bus.
• From one socket with a copper wire with a cross section of 10 mm 2 we put a jumper on the earth bus;
• From the last free slot, we put a jumper on the neutral bus or neutral bus (also a copper wire 10 mm 2).

Now everything is done - grounding in a private house is done according to the TN-C-S scheme. Next, to connect consumers, we take the phase from input cable, zero - from the N bus, ground - from the PE bus. Be sure to make sure that the ground and zero do not intersect anywhere.

TT grounding

Converting a TN-C circuit to TT is generally simple. Two wires come from the pole. The phase conductor is still used as a phase, and the protective PEN conductor is attached to the “zero” bus and is then considered zero. The conductor from the made circuit is directly fed to the ground bus.

Do-it-yourself grounding in a private house - TT scheme

The disadvantage of this system is that it provides protection only for equipment that provides for the use of a "ground" wire. If there is still household appliances made according to a two-wire circuit, it may be energized. Even if their cases are grounded with separate conductors, in case of problems, the voltage may remain at “zero” (the phase will be broken by the machine). Therefore, of these two schemes, TN-C-S is preferred as more reliable.

Nowadays, many people are wondering how to conduct grounding with their own hands. Grounding device in Vacation home or a do-it-yourself basement due to safety requirements in the first place. The fact is that many household appliances, such as a dishwasher, washing machine, refrigerator and other devices, have a metal case. And you can not do without grounding when connecting them.

To make a grounding device in a private house with your own hands, you need to have some knowledge. Metal, as you know, actively conducts electricity.

Maybe electric shock a person from a household appliance, if the latter has a malfunction, and electricity has gone to its body. This is fraught with injury and life-threatening.

To ensure the safe use of household appliances, conditions were created when all buildings household appliances connected to one of the wires in the power cable, and the sockets are connected to ground.

Thus, in the event of a breakdown of equipment with a metal case a person will not receive an electric shock, since the current will go to the ground through the power cable of the device. Further - through the outlet along a special grounding wire to a special grounding circuit, which is located near the house on the site.

There are household appliances that not enough ground wire in the socket, they require an additional ground wire to be attached to the metal housing of the instrument. These household appliances include:

• Electric oven.
• Microwave.
• Washing machine.
• Dishwasher.
• Water heater.

Grounding First ensures electrical safety in the room.

Perhaps not everyone knows this, but the microwave oven must be connected to the ground. The fact is that without connecting to the ground, it gives a very large background, which is dangerous to health. There is increased radiation, which at certain conditions can become life-threatening. So refer to grounding household appliances need to be very serious.

Undoubtedly, many people often experienced tingling when touching a metal case, for example, washing machine. This indicates that the grounding is faulty in it.

The fact is that the machine could be grounded through its network cable, but the wires work under heavy load, and it will be much safer and more reliable ground such machines with a separate wire by screwing the wire to the metal of the machine body with a nut. And you have to do the same with dishwasher, boiler, microwave oven and other devices in metal cases.

Grounding in computers

Computers have some peculiarities related to grounding. Perhaps few people know about it. If you connect the ground wire directly to the computer case, it is possible that the speed of the Internet will increase several times, the number of errors will be minimized.

It is very important to have grounding in houses that are used as summer cottages. The fact is that these houses are mostly made of flammable material - wood. There is a high probability of being struck by lightning.

The reason is the increased presence of wells, wells, pipelines that lie on the soil or at a very shallow depth in the ground, which is increases the chance of being struck by lightning into the pipeline several times.

If in country house there is no grounding and lightning rod, then in most cases a fire occurs during a thunderstorm. The latter may not be extinguished immediately, due to the fact that the owners are rarely in the country and may not know about the fire. There is also a danger that the fire will spread to nearby houses.

The second factor. Usually dachas are located far from fire stations. The following scenario is possible: by the time the fire trucks get to the dacha in the forest or somewhere far outside the city, the fire will gain power, which cannot be extinguished quickly. And after the fire is completely extinguished, the house will only have to be rebuilt, since it is impractical to restore the old one.

To prevent this from happening, you need to responsibly treat the manufacture of a lightning rod and grounding. For this it will be enough several rods one meter long each, they need to be attached to the ridge of the roof of the house and connected with steel wire to ground.

There are six grounding systems in total. For private homes, two are most often used: TN-S-C; TT.

In the first option, the neutral at the substation is tightly grounded, the equipment has direct contact with the ground. Ground (PE) connected to the consumer simultaneously with one wire, it also carries the function of a neutral, also called zero (N). This one wire, which carries two functions, ground and zero, is denoted by the symbol PEN. It is conducted into the house, inside the room it is divided into two separate wires and connected to the electrical equipment of the room.

Such a system is sufficiently protected with the help of automatic machines, possibly without the use of RCDs. This option has a drawback. If burning occurs, damage to the PEN wire, then between the house and the substation on the earth bus in the house will appear phase voltage . It's impossible to turn it off.

There are strict requirements for this type of connection:

1. The PEN wire must be mechanically protected with high quality.
2. A backup grounding is installed on the poles after 100-200 meters.

It is known that in countryside many lines are not adapted to this method of grounding. The method of the T.T. system is suitable for them. It must be used in utility rooms located separately from residential premises and having an earthen floor. In them, a person runs the risk of touching the ground and ground at the same time, this is dangerous when using the TN - S - C system.

Grounding the TT system. The difference with this method is that the ground wire goes to the shield from a separate ground loop, but not from the substation. The system is resistant to damage to the protective conductor, but will not provide complete safety without the installation of an RCD in the house.

Old-style power lines do not have protective earth. They need to be replaced with modern ones. But quickly and large volumes it is impossible to do so. To ensure safety, you need to make a circuit separately.

It's possible do it yourself or hire experts. The company assumes the obligation to reimburse all losses to the client if they have arisen through its fault.

Grounding device for the house:

1. Metal strips that connect parts together.
2. Pins, they are also called grounding conductors.
3. Lines that connect the ground loop to the electrical panel.

Metals for the manufacture of ground electrodes

Pins can be made of iron, with a diameter of sixteen millimeters or more. It is not recommended to use reinforcement, as it has a hardened surface, which changes the distribution of electric current.

The second reason is that the hardened surface is more susceptible to corrosion.

Pins can be made from metal corners with a section of 50 to 50 millimeters. Corners are convenient in that they are easier to drive into the ground. First, they need to be sharpened from one end, and a square pad 70 millimeters wide is welded to the second, it will be more convenient to hit it with a sledgehammer.

Instead of pins pipes can be used. One end of the pipe must be flattened and welded. At a distance of half a meter from the end, holes must be drilled in the wall of the pipe. This is done so that when the soil dries out, it is possible to pour saline into them, thus restoring contact with the soil. It is difficult to hammer such pipes into the ground with a sledgehammer, it would be more expedient to drill wells of small diameter, place pipes in them, and fill the soil back.

The depth at which the pins should be in the ground. Ground pins must be placed deep in the ground below freezing: from sixty centimeters to one meter. If the area is dry, then you need to make sure that some of the pins are constantly in the zone of moist soil. By using pins two to three meters long, sufficient leakage current dissipation can be ensured.

It is very important that the metal transmits electricity well to the ground. Pins cannot be painted. They will transmit currents to the ground very weakly, as a result, the ground will not fulfill its purpose and will not provide safety.

All pins must be sanded down to bare metal, there should not be any paint or protective layer of varnish on the corners or pins.

There is a rule that does not allow connecting parts to each other with bolts and nuts. Contact should be as reliable as possible, and resistance should be minimal. To do this, all joints of parts must be welded by arc welding.

How to make a "ground" for electricity

Some people use pipelines instead of grounding, other metal structures that are in the ground. Indeed, such grounding performs its function, but not always for a long time and reliably.

The fact is that the pipes of the pipeline have connections. Over time, electrical contact at the pipe joints disappears due to corrosion. The pipeline continues to function as a conductor of water, but as a conductor of electricity and grounding, it has ceased to function. So don't use a ground wire like that. which can endanger a person's life at any time.

The distance from the edge of the blind area to the place where the ground pins will be installed should not be less than one and a half meters. After choosing a place for the ground loop, a trench is dug under an equilateral triangle with a side length of three meters. The depth of the trench is seventy centimeters, the width is sixty centimeters, so it will be more convenient to cook. One of the vertices of the triangle is located closer than the others; a trench fifty centimeters deep should be dug from it to the house.

At the vertices of the triangle need to hammer the pins without finishing them to the bottom of the pit by ten centimeters. A grounding conductor cannot be led above the ground, it must go underground at a depth of about sixty centimeters. A strip of metal forty wide and four millimeters thick is welded to the protruding parts of the pins. The same strip connects the triangle with the house. Ground resistance should not exceed four ohms. Next, you need to fill the trenches with earth. It is necessary to compact the earth in layers, to prevent the presence of debris and stones in it.

When metal strip entered the house, you need to weld a bolt to it, to the last attach copper conductor with a cross section of at least 4 square millimeters. Grounding is connected to the electrical panel to a special bus. From the bus comes the wiring of the "earth" around the house.

It is believed that grounding sockets separately is inefficient, since, depending on the state of the soil, the resistance of the circuits changes, a potential difference occurs, which leads to equipment failure or electrical injury.

Relatively recently appeared modular grounding. It includes a set of pins and clamps connecting them. This method differs in that the pins are driven into the ground to a depth of forty meters. At certain stages of driving, a resistance check should be carried out. It occupies a small area and requires a small amount of work, but the price of such grounding is several times higher than the traditional one.