Grounding in a panel house with your own hands. Grounding in the apartment of a multi-storey building. TN-C system in your home

Usually questions about installation grounding in the apartment begin to think at the time of the reconstruction of electrical wiring. After you have partially or completely replaced the old two-wire wiring with a new, three-wire one (including the ground wire), connected the ground to all sockets, it's time to connect to the floor electrical panel.

However, in order for the connection to be competent, and most importantly, for the electrical safety conditions to be justified after this connection, it is necessary to know how the electrical panel itself was connected.

Multi-storey building grounding system

In Soviet-built houses, as a rule, TN - C grounding systems are used. In this system, three phases L and a combined PEN conductor are suitable for the porch risers. Floor shields in this system are grounded, as a rule, grounding is not provided for in them.

In newer houses or with reconstructed networks, the TN - C - S system is installed. In this system, three phases L and a divided zero working N and a protective PE conductor are connected to the risers of the entrances. In this case, the connection is much simpler, the floor shield has separate busbars for connecting the phase, zero and ground, and the ground bus has a metal connection with the shield body.

If your house belongs to new buildings (since about 1997), then in this case all the conditions for connecting grounding are already in place, since the TN-S grounding system is installed in new houses.

When connecting a house using such a system, the ground wire is laid separately, along with zero and phase wires from the substation itself to the electrical panels of the house. In this case, you should not worry.

Your house is connected to the grounding system TN - C - S.

Such grounding systems are designed in new-built houses, in which the electrical installation is carried out with a five-wire system and grounding in the apartment is present in this case.

With such a grounding system, all floor boards must be grounded. It is very easy to determine if your house is connected to the TN - C - S system. To do this, just look at input cable suitable for the riser, it must be five-wire:

• - three phases L1, L2, L3;
• - working zero N;
• - protective zero PE.

The connection in this case is carried out in this way: phase wire the apartment is connected to the bus where the old wire was; zero working N is connected to the bus with neutral wires; ground wire PE (zero protective) is connected to the shield body.

Moreover, it is impossible to connect all the ground wires in the shield to one clamp (bolt). It is necessary to use different bolted connections. And it would be better to use a bus, screw the bus to the shield, and then connect the PE.

Such a ground connection in an apartment is similar if your house is connected via the TN-S grounding system.

Your house is connected to the TN-C grounding system.

With such a house connection system, a four-wire cable is suitable for the inlet riser: three phases L1, L2, L3; and combined zero working and protective wire PEN. In this case, the grounding in the house is completely absent, there is no ground loop - the electrical panels are not grounded! How to connect in this case?

Many illiterate electricians believe that it is necessary to connect the protective zero PE in a place with a working N, on the shield body. However, such zeroing is not safe !!!

When the working zero burns out, phase voltage through the connected equipment will appear on all zero wires in the apartment, and if the zero protective and working wires are connected, then on all grounded instrument cases, a voltage of 220 V will appear. Therefore, before connecting in this way, think carefully about whether you need such protection!

Probably, it is no secret to anyone that the electrical networks of the housing and communal services are in a deplorable state and such a phenomenon as zero burnout in residential buildings occurs very often. Better without nulling than to zero on worn-out electrical equipment and expose yourself and your loved ones to danger.

Therefore, if there is no grounding in the house, then it is better not to connect the protective wire PE together with the working zero to the shield body. Leave it just unconnected. It will be a backup in case one of the workers is damaged. And in order for the operation of electrical installations in a network without grounding to be safe for you, use an RCD.

Install a separate RCD for each outlet. The RCD, although it will not prevent the appearance of a phase on the case, will instantly work when touching the damaged case and turn off the electrical installation.

The solution to the problem of lack of grounding can be the installation of your own own ground loop. There have been cases when residents living on the first floors of houses in which there is no grounding installed their own grounding. They hammered several corners under the window into the soil, scalded them along the contour and connected them to the grounding PE conductor in the apartment.

You can also solve the problem with ungrounded floor shields by living on the fifth floor. Lay 25 m of a single-core wire to the basement along the floor risers, make a ground loop in the basement or near the entrance, connect this single-core wire to the shields and the ground loop. All! In this case, you can safely connect the ground wire from the apartment to the electrical panel.

In no case do not use radiators, water and gas pipes as grounding. Such grounding in the apartment is unsafe not only for yourself but also for your neighbors. In the event that voltage appears on the body of electrical equipment, grounded through a battery or a water pipe, all batteries and pipes will be energized, not only yours, but also in neighboring apartments and houses.

As a result, an upstairs neighbor who decides to drink water from a tap can be fatally struck electric shock!

My bitter experience as an electrician allows me to assert: If your "grounding" is done properly - that is, there is a place for connecting "grounding" conductors in the shield, and all plugs and sockets have "grounding" contacts - I envy you, and you have nothing worry.

Ground connection rules

What is the problem, why can not you connect the ground wire to the pipes of heating or water supply?

In reality, in urban conditions, stray currents and other interfering factors are so great that anything can turn out to be on the radiator. However, the main problem is that the tripping current of the circuit breakers is quite large. Accordingly, one of the options for a possible accident is a short-circuit breakdown of the phase to the case with a leakage current just somewhere on the border of the machine’s operation, that is, in best case 16 amps. In total, we divide 220v by 16A - we get 15 ohms. Just some thirty meters of pipes, and you get 15 ohms. And the current flowed somewhere, towards the unsawn forest. But it doesn't matter anymore. The important thing is that in the neighboring apartment (which is 3 meters, not 30, the voltage on the tap is almost the same 220.), But on, say, sewer pipe- a real zero, or so.

And now the question is - what will happen to the neighbor if he, sitting in the bathroom (connecting to the sewer by opening the plug) touches the tap? Guessed?

The prize is prison. Under the article on violation of electrical safety rules resulting in casualties.

We must not forget that it is impossible to imitate the "grounding" circuit by connecting the "zero working" and "zero protective" conductors in the euro socket, as some "craftsmen" sometimes practice. Such a substitution is extremely dangerous. Cases of "working zero" burning out in the shield are not rare. After that, on the body of your refrigerator, computer, etc. very firmly placed 220V.

The consequences will be approximately the same as with a neighbor, with the difference that no one will be held responsible for this, except for the one who made such a connection. And as practice shows, this is done by the owners themselves, because. consider themselves sufficient specialists not to call electricians.

"Grounding" and "grounding"

One of the options for "grounding" is. But not as in the case described above. The fact is that there is zero potential on the switchboard housing, on your floor, or more precisely, the neutral wire passing through this very shield simply has contact with the shield housing by means of a bolted connection. Zero conductors from apartments located on this floor are also connected to the shield body. Let's look at this point in more detail. What we see is that each of these ends is wound under its own bolt (in practice, the truth is often found in pairs of these ends). This is exactly where our newly made conductor should be connected, which will later be called "grounding".

This situation also has its own nuances. What prevents "zero" from burning out at the entrance to the house. As a matter of fact, nothing. One can only hope that there are fewer houses in the city than apartments, which means that the percentage of such a problem is much less. But again, this is a Russian "maybe", which does not solve the problem.

Only correct solution, in this situation. Take a metal corner 40x40 or 50x50, 3 meters long, hammer it into the ground so that they don’t stumble over it, namely, we dig a hole two bayonets of a shovel deep and hammer our corner there as much as possible, and from it to conduct a PV-3 wire (flexible , stranded), with a cross section of at least 6 mm. sq. to, your switchboard.

Ideally, it should consist of 3-4 corners that are welded metal strip the same width. The distance between the corners should be 2 m.

Just do not drill a hole in the ground with a meter drill and lower the pin there. It is not right. And the efficiency of such grounding is close to zero.

But, like any method, it has its downsides. Of course, you are lucky if you live in a private house, or at least on the first floor. And what about those who live on the 7-8 floor? Stock up on 30-meter wire?

So how do you find a way out of this situation? I am afraid that even the most experienced electricians will not give you an answer to this question.

What is required for house wiring

For wiring around the house you will need copper wire grounding, of the appropriate length, and a cross section of at least 1.5 mm. sq. and, of course, a socket with a "grounding" contact. Box, plinth, bracket - a matter of aesthetics. Perfect option, this is when you make repairs. In this case, I recommend choosing a cable with three cores in double insulation, preferably VVG. One end of the wire is wound under the free bolt of the switchboard busbar connected to the shield body, and the other end - to the "grounding" contact of the socket. If there is an RCD in the shield, the grounding conductor should not have contact with the N conductor anywhere on the line (otherwise the RCD will work).

We must also not forget that the "earth" does not have the right to be torn apart by means of any switches.

All modern household appliances provide for its use together with sockets equipped with a separate grounding terminal. This connection provides reliable protection consumers, guarantees their reliable, durable and high-quality work. However, protective earthing is not available in all high-rise buildings, especially if these are old buildings. Therefore, many hosts similar situations trying to solve the question of how to make grounding in the apartment? Everything will depend on one distribution system or another. electrical energy existing in a particular residential building.

Electricity distribution schemes

The presence or absence of separate ground conductors is the main hallmark power distribution systems in new and old homes. In accordance with the GOSTs of the USSR, which were used until 1998, the presence of a ground wire in the circuit was not provided. Previously, there was no need for it, since the population at that time had a very poor assortment of household appliances.

Later, the situation changed, and in new homes, separate grounding conductors began to appear in electrical systems. They are concentrated in switchboards installed at each entrance.

The modern power supply scheme is known as TN-C-S. It provides for the use of a five-core cable wound into a shield. Three wires are phase and are painted in red or Brown color. The fourth wire is zero, which has a blue or blue color. The fifth green or green-yellow wire is used as the ground conductor. It is connected to a separate bus, which is also connected to the switchboard housing.

Thus, in new houses, the issue of grounding is completely resolved and no additional actions are required at all. What about those apartment owners who have no grounding at all, and the apartment is filled with modern household appliances?

Grounding device in an old house

Old buildings are equipped with a power distribution system called TN-C, which does not have a separate ground conductor. Protective and working grounding is provided by one PEN wire. Thus, the entire network is laid with a four-core cable, in which there are three phases and one neutral conductor. grounding neutral wire usually carried out at a transformer substation.

The apartments themselves have two-wire wiring, and the sockets are not grounded. Sometimes incompetent advisers recommend connecting the neutral wire to the grounding contact of the outlet. Under no circumstances should this be done. The fact is that in the event of a break or burning of zero, as well as possible electric shock, fire, failure of household appliances.

In order to perform correctly, all two-wire wiring in the apartment must be replaced with a three-wire cable. All installed sockets are also to be replaced. In some cases, an additional hole is drilled in the wall near the shield for connecting a three-core power cable.

After making all the connections inside the apartment, connects home network to the shield. The yellow-green ground wire is connected to the ground bus. Thus, when making grounding in the apartment, it is necessary at the very end of the whole operation to make a conclusion to the ground wire machine according to the principle standard scheme TN-C-S.

Where to get grounding in the floor board

How to conduct grounding in the apartment. technology, whether it is feasible in all premises - the answers to these questions are presented in this article.

Before starting work, you need to find out which system is used in your home. According to the rules that were adopted back in 2003, each building must be equipped with a riser of five wires, in which the 5th wire is just the grounding conductor. If everything is exactly like this in your house, then you just have to spread the ground wire around the apartment (the third core in the cable), then put special sockets with grounding everywhere, and arrange a DSUP in the bathroom.

1. So, in new (post-Soviet) houses, this is usually modern system TN-C-S (has both zero working and protective conductors, which are usually connected in the main shield of the building; then they are disconnected everywhere). In this system, 3 phases L are suitable for the access risers, as well as a separated N (working zero) and PE (protective conductor). The connection process is much simpler, since the floor shield already has separate buses designed to connect zero, phase and ground. And the ground bus has a metal connection with the body of the electrical panel.

Power supply apartments TN-C-S

It is not difficult to determine whether your house is connected by (TN - C - S). Just look at the cable that goes to the riser (introductory). It should have 5 wires:

• 3 phases such as L1, L2, L3;
• protective zero PE;
• working zero N.

The connection is made as follows:

• the phase wire from the apartment is connected to the same bus where the previous old wire was;
• the working neutral N wire is connected to the bus that has neutral wires;
• grounding PE wire (zero protective) is connected to the shield body.

Important! It is impossible to connect all ground wires (which are in the shield) to 1 bolt (clamp)! It is necessary to use different bolted connections. It is better to use a busbar: screw it to the shield, then connect the PE.

Example of division by household appliances: lighting devices, power supplies, large household appliances are grounded separately

It is also important to consider the following:

• with a 3-phase input, absolutely all conductors must have the same cross-sections (for copper up to 16 mm2);
• under 1 terminal of the machine, you can clamp up to 2 conductors of the 1st section;
• to obtain a uniform load, a 3-phase connection to hob;
• all metal parts in the bathroom (pipes, underfloor heating screen, bathtub, etc.) and the grounding conductor of the socket (of course, if there is one in the bathroom) must be connected to the DSUP (or PMC) bus, which should be located there. In this case, the socket is powered by a 3-wire circuit;
• all PE conductors in the presence of mechanical. protection should be a cross section of 2.5 mm2, if it is not - 4 mm2. The conductor from the DSUP bus to the bus of the PE shield (better than the storey one) must have a cross section of 6 mm2;
• it is preferable to separate lighting circuits and power (socket). However, mixed power supply is allowed. And the lines to all power plants (stove, oven, SM) should be separate.

2. In some new type apartment buildings (since 1997) TN-S is used throughout the disconnected). This grounding is the most reliable. When connecting a house, the ground wire is laid separately, together with the phase, neutral wires from the substation to the electrical panels of the house. The work is carried out in the same way as in TN - C - S.

How to conduct grounding in an old house?

Usually found in old houses TN-C system, in which, throughout its entire length, the neutral conductors (working and protective) are combined into one neutral conductor (PEN). The electrical equipment case (electrical appliance, shield or assembly case) is connected to the PEN conductor. Such protection is called zeroing. The zeroing circuit is installed at the substation that feeds the house. 3 phases L are suitable for access risers, as well as a combined PEN conductor. All floor shields in such a system are zeroed, and grounding is not provided for in them.

Wiring in the case of a single-phase power supply to the living space is carried out with 2-core cables (phase, PEN). Or 4-core cables (A, B, C, PEN) with 3-phase power supply of the apartment. Contacts in sockets protective earth missing.

This is the oldest and most common system. It existed in the USSR for a very long time and, unfortunately, still continues to exist in many homes. When used, there is a serious risk of electric shock. The circuit breakers (protective switching devices) installed with the TN-C system protect the electrical circuits (groups, lines) only from short-circuit currents. But protection against electric shock is completely absent.

Important! If an electrician recommends doing an electrical installation using TN-C, do not hesitate to refuse! It is completely incapable of protecting against electric shock! The operation of electrical appliances with such a system creates a potential threat to life! In addition, the PUE (clause 1.7.80) prohibits the installation of an RCD in this grounding system as the main protection.

According to the new standards adopted in 2003, in all old houses, the TN-C system must be transferred to either the TN-C-S or TN-S system by upgrading the power supply circuits (installing a potential equalization system). However, poor funding does not yet allow this to be implemented in all homes. In most cases, power supply organizations act as follows: at the input to apartment house mount re-grounding zero wire. Then separate the PEN conductor into 2 separate wires:

• zero (N) working conductor;
• protective (PE) conductor.

Important! In the case of a TN-C system, nothing can be done independently regarding grounding, unfortunately! You can not build your own personal memory! Since it will be located outside the SES of the house and can cause stray currents. Therefore, you can only use the existing common house system.

In other words, you need to either completely re-equip all the wiring in the house to new standards, or use electrical appliances with a non-conductive housing. It is also recommended to install an RCD on circuits that feed household appliances. Especially important - in the bathroom. RCD is not able to protect against electric shock, but it will save from fatal injury.

Reasons for excluding grounding installation

1. If grounding is not connected to water pipes, batteries, fittings and other conductive parts of the apartment, dangerous voltage will appear between the equipment connected to such wiring and these parts. But even if you connect and the grounding turns out to be good, then from these structures the equalizing grounding current will go through the entire apartment. Such currents can be very high, so if the PEN (primary earth electrode) is violated, there will be a fire hazard due to overcurrents. But that is not all. In the event of a voltage appearing on the body of electrical appliances, grounded by means of a battery or water pipe, all pipes and batteries will be energized, including those in neighboring apartments. As a result, a neighbor who decided to pour water from the tap can be electrocuted to death! The prohibition of the use of pipes is written in the PUE 1.7.110.
2. It is also impossible to simulate a circuit through a connection in a “zero worker” euro socket with a “zero protective” conductor. This is extremely dangerous. It is not uncommon for the “zero working” conductor to burn out in the shield. And this leads to the fact that on the computer case, refrigerator, etc. placed 220 V.
3. The only exception is grounding "to zero", which is done in houses specially equipped for electric stoves. However, this should be done only after carefully studying the neutral conductor for the cross section (at least 16 squares for aluminum), as well as continuity (according to PUE 7, clause 1.7.131). This must be done by a qualified electrician.

Thus, we see that in some cases it is not easy to draw a circuit in an apartment. If this is a TN - C - S or TN - S system, then you can ground yourself (that is, run wires around the apartment). If this is an outdated TN - C, then even an experienced electrician will not help in the case of a single apartment. It needs to be changed throughout the house.

The housing stock of our country has recently begun a global renovation. The majority of the population still lives in old houses - large-sized "Stalinka" and small-sized "Khrushchev". The plan did not provide for grounding in the apartment, since in those years when this housing was rented out, people used a small amount household electrical appliances low power, the wiring was two-wire, and three-phase connectors with a grounding element did not yet exist. Many people still face the problem of lack of home grounding to this day. Is there a solution to it, is it possible to do it yourself and how to make grounding in an apartment? All this is discussed in this article.

In the process of using household electrical appliances, there is a possibility that dangerous voltage will appear on the unit's case, which can provoke an electric shock. If there is no electrical protection in the house, the risk of injury increases significantly. It can be reduced by connecting the body of the electrical receiver to a grounding element.

If you use the zero phase of a two-core apartment wiring (zeroing) as a grounding conductor, it is necessary to have a circuit breaker in the electrical circuit. In old houses, such machines were widespread. In the common people they were called traffic jams. Do you remember the expression: “The plugs are knocked out”? In the event of a short circuit in the electrical circuit, the machine worked, and the person avoided the traumatic effect of the current. The absence of a protective circuit may well cause a fire due to exceeding permissible load to home electrical network, bad contacts or establishing circuit breakers, throughput which significantly exceeds the rated power of the circuit.

Thus, we found out that grounding in the electrical system of our homes is simply vital. And many landlords solve this issue by themselves. different ways, not suspecting at the same time that their actions are not only, to put it mildly, not smart, but also far from safe.

This can't be done

Nowadays, almost all comfortable dwellings are already owned, and some owners of the old "Khrushchev" and "Stalinka" houses believe that they are free to do whatever they want on their territory. At the same time, they somehow forget that their apartment is a component general concept“residential house”, and everything that is outside their private property, is a common house economy.

Gas and water supply systems are a common element of the living quarters of the entire house. It is strictly forbidden to use pipes for heating, water supply or gas supply as a ground conductor. The biggest danger of this method of electrical protection is electric shock, and most often fatal. Moreover, the tragedy may not even happen to the residents of the grounded premises. The usual shower can turn into death for the neighbors, since the leakage of electricity from the home of the "unfortunate innovator" along the shortest path ( plumbing system) finds a way out in their bathroom.

Constant exposure to electricity metal pipes leads to corrosion, which causes cracks and leaks. When damaged gas pipe an explosion may occur.

You can’t independently connect to a common entrance, where some craftsmen put in combined zero protective and working conductors (PEN-conductor). The danger lies in the fact that the neutral conductor can simply burn out, and high voltage will instantly go to the cases of all electrical household appliances connected at that moment to electrical system"grounded" space.

It is strictly forbidden to connect several conductors to one connector of the main protective bus. If it is necessary to disconnect one of the conductors, the state of contact of the others will be disturbed, which can cause a tragedy. Each conductor is connected to the protective bus individually.

An independent grounding device for a dwelling, where its presence was not initially provided for by the power supply project, entails not only administrative proceedings and the imposition of fines, but also criminal punishment if the illegal actions of the "craftsman" lead to harm to the health or death of another person. This must always be remembered!

Ground types

In relation to residential premises, three types of electrical protection are usually used. They differ from each other in the presence or absence of a separately running current-carrying conductor.

• An electrical protective circuit made of a two-wire wire, the core of which is usually made of aluminum. In it, the protective function is performed by the zero-phase wire. Such protection was widespread in the Soviet Union during the electrification of residential and production fund. Now found in old houses. Technical marking– TN-C;
• Electric protective circuit of a three-wire wire. Each conductor performs a different function - working phase, zero phase and protective. The last two conductors do not intersect anywhere along the entire length of the electric line. Technical marking - TN-S;
• An electrical protective circuit made of a three-wire wire, in which, at the output from the power substation, the conductors "zero" and "ground" are combined into one, and when entering the building they are divided into separate cores. This type of electrical protection is used everywhere at the present time. Technical marking -TN-С-S.

Grounding the bath and household electrical appliances

To protect against electric shock when using a bath, it is necessary to attach a stranded wire with a cross section of 6 mm 2 to it, the other end of it is connected to the ground bus of a home electric meter. For these purposes, the latest generation of bathrooms has a contact connector in the form of a bent petal.

To protect against stress cast iron bath old type, it is necessary to drill a hole on the leg, fix bolted connection a small metal plate (grounding jumper) where to connect the protective wire.

Acrylic bathtub installed in metal carcass, and for the purpose of electrical protection, the grounding conductor is attached to this frame. To protect yourself during water procedures in a bath with a massage effect, it must be connected to a separate socket located at a distance of 0.7 meters from the bath and at a height of 0.5 meters from the floor.

The socket must be equipped with a protective cable that has a connection to electrical panel through the protection rail. It would be useful to install an additional protective device.

In parallel with the bathroom, household appliances also need to be protected from dangerous conduction. electrical devices (washing machine, water heater, electric dryer, hob, oven). For each of these units, it is necessary to place individual connectors with connection to the protective bus of the electric meter.

When operating household appliances, you should always monitor the condition of their electrical wire. Protection against a probable electric shock is also provided by the ZO devices located in the housing of the electric meter of the dwelling.

How to make grounding in the apartment correctly and avoid tragedy, we will tell further.

How to make grounding in a comfortable residential area

There are several ways. The principle of installation is almost the same everywhere - this is the connection of the ground conductor to the common switchboard of the house. Depending on what type of building the residential building belongs to, the features of the installation of electrical protection are somewhat different:

• If the house is from the category of new buildings, then problems with the grounding device usually do not arise. The premises of the new housing stock are equipped with a three-core electrical wiring, in which each core is responsible for the working phase, zero and grounding. It is only necessary to connect the electrical grounding conductor to a special busbar on the storey switchboard.

It happens that in an apartment with a repair from the developer is missing. Then you can easily eliminate this deficiency yourself. To do this, all the wires of the dwelling must be connected to an individual electric meter, which is located near front door, and already deduce from it power cable and connect to the access electrical panel.

Each conductor of it is connected to a similar bus of the electric meter - the ground wire - to the protective bus (located at the bottom right), the neutral wire - to the zero connectors (located at the top left), the phase is connected in order to several RCDs. The main groups of electrical consumers of the apartment (for example, all lamps, separate rooms, all home appliances together or each unit separately) are powered by an individual RCD.

Compound electric cable between the apartment and the common riser can only be carried out by employees of the power grid. For such repair work official permission, qualifications and access are required.

• If the house is old and belongs to the buildings of the Soviet era, then all the electrical wiring in it is two-phase. In such wiring, two neutral conductors - working and protective - are combined into one common (PEN). To protect against electrical shock, the housing of household electrical appliances, which must be grounded, is connected to the PEN conductor. Another name for such protection is zeroing.

It saves only from a short circuit, since the protection system provides for the presence of circuit breakers in the electrical circuit. Zeroing will not save you from electric shock. There is only one way out. It is necessary to completely replace the electrical wiring of the room with a three-wire one. When carrying out repair work, it is necessary to draw up a plan-scheme on which to accurately indicate the location of all consumers of electricity, the places where the wires are connected, and the way the wires are laid.

The wiring should be copper: it has greater electrical conductivity and strength. Wiring electrical wiring carried out in the future in the same way as in new houses. At the end of the repair work, it is necessary to call specialists from the city electric network so that they can competently connect to the general electrical distribution panel.

• In the event that for some reason it is impossible to create high-quality grounding in the apartment, you can insure yourself against a sudden electric shock by connecting a protective shutdown device to the home electrical circuit. At the very least, the RCD will instantly turn off the electricity supply in the event of an emergency current leakage.

Another way to protect your home is to install a personal ground loop. The essence of the method is to install grounding elements outside a residential building by driving several metal rods into the ground at some distance from it and connecting them with a jumper.

The rods are placed in the form of a triangle. A neutral wire descends from the apartment to the basement, which is brought out and connected to the jumper. The other end of the neutral wire is connected to the switchboard housing. The grounding of the dwelling is also connected to the shield. This creates an individual protective circuit.

It is possible to mount such protection only with the permission of the managing organization and the power grid. Otherwise, upon occurrence emergency all the blame for the harm will fall on the one who created this protective circuit.