How to make a Stirling engine at home? Which stirling engine has the best design with maximum efficiency How to make a do-it-yourself stirling engine drawings

In which the working fluid (gaseous or liquid) moves in a closed volume, in fact it is a kind of external combustion engine. This mechanism is based on the principle of periodic heating and cooling of the working fluid. Extraction of energy occurs from the emerging volume of the working fluid. The Stirling engine works not only from the energy of burning fuel, but also from almost any source. This mechanism was patented by the Scot Robert Stirling in 1816.

The described mechanism, despite the low efficiency, has a number of advantages, first of all, it is simplicity and unpretentiousness. Thanks to this, many amateur designers are trying to assemble a Stirling engine with their own hands. Some succeed, and some don't.

In this article we will consider Stirling with our own hands from improvised materials. We will need the following blanks and tools: a tin can (you can use sprats), sheet metal, paper clips, foam rubber, gum, package, wire cutters, pliers, scissors, soldering iron,

Now let's start assembling. Here detailed instructions to how to make a Stirling engine with your own hands. First you need to wash the jar, clean it sandpaper the edges. We cut out a circle from sheet metal so that it lies on the inner edges of the can. We determine the center (for this we use a caliper or ruler), make a hole with scissors. Next, we take a copper wire and a paper clip, straighten the paper clip, make a ring at the end. We wind a wire on a paper clip - four tight turns. Next, we solder the resulting spiral with a small amount of solder. Then it is necessary to carefully solder the spiral to the hole in the cover so that the stem is perpendicular to the cover. The paperclip should move freely.

After that, it is necessary to make a communicating hole in the lid. We make a displacer from foam rubber. Its diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the can, but there should not be a large gap. The height of the displacer is a little more than half of the can. We cut a hole in the center of the foam rubber for the sleeve, the latter can be made of rubber or cork. We insert the rod into the resulting sleeve and glue everything. The displacer must be placed parallel to the cover, this important condition. Next, it remains to close the jar and solder the edges. The seam must be sealed. Now we proceed to the manufacture of the working cylinder. To do this, cut out a strip 60 mm long and 25 mm wide from tin, bend the edge by 2 mm with pliers. We form a sleeve, after that we solder the edge, then it is necessary to solder the sleeve to the cover (above the hole).

Now you can start making the membrane. To do this, cut off a piece of film from the package, push it a little with your finger inside, press the edges with an elastic band. Next, you need to check the correctness of the assembly. We heat the bottom of the can on fire, pull the stem. As a result, the membrane should bend outward, and if the rod is released, the displacer should lower under its own weight, respectively, the membrane returns to its place. In the event that the displacer is made incorrectly or the soldering of the can is not tight, the rod will not return to its place. After that, we make the crankshaft and racks (the spacing of the cranks should be 90 degrees). The height of the cranks should be 7 mm and the displacers 5 mm. The length of the connecting rods is determined by the position of the crankshaft. The end of the crank is inserted into the cork. So we looked at how to assemble a Stirling engine with our own hands.

This mechanism will work ordinary candle. If you attach magnets to the flywheel and take the coil of an aquarium compressor, then such a device can replace a simple electric motor. With your own hands, as you can see, making such a device is not at all difficult. There would be a desire.

It replaced other types of power plants, however, work aimed at abandoning the use of these units suggests an imminent change in leading positions.

Since the beginning of technological progress, when the use of engines that burn fuel inside was just beginning, their superiority was not obvious. Steam machine, as a competitor, contains a lot of advantages: along with traction parameters, it is silent, omnivorous, easy to control and configure. But lightness, reliability and efficiency allowed the internal combustion engine to take over the steam.

Today, issues of ecology, economy and safety are at the forefront. This forces engineers to throw their forces on serial units operating on renewable fuel sources. In the year 16 of the nineteenth century, Robert Stirling registered an engine powered by external sources heat. Engineers believe that this unit is able to change the modern leader. The Stirling engine combines efficiency, reliability, runs quietly, on any fuel, this makes the product a player in the automotive market.

Robert Stirling (1790-1878):

Stirling engine history

Initially, the installation was developed with the aim of replacing the steam-powered machine. Boilers of steam mechanisms exploded, when exceeded allowable norms pressure. From this point of view, Stirling is much safer, functioning using a temperature difference.

The principle of operation of the Stirling engine is to alternately supply or remove heat from the substance on which work is performed. The substance itself is enclosed in a volume closed type. The role of the working substance is performed by gases or liquids. There are substances that perform the role of two components, the gas is transformed into a liquid and vice versa. The liquid-piston Stirling engine has: small dimensions, powerful, generates high pressure.

The decrease and increase in the volume of gas during cooling or heating, respectively, is confirmed by the law of thermodynamics, according to which all components: the degree of heating, the amount of space occupied by the substance, the force acting per unit area, are related and described by the formula:

P*V=n*R*T

• P is the force of the gas in the engine per unit area;
• V is the quantitative value occupied by gas in the engine space;
• n is the molar amount of gas in the engine;
• R is the gas constant;
• T is the degree of gas heating in the engine K,

Stirling engine model:

Due to the unpretentiousness of the installations, the engines are divided into: solid fuel, liquid fuel, solar energy, chemical reaction and other types of heating.

Cycle

The Stirling external combustion engine uses a set of phenomena of the same name. The effect of the ongoing action in the mechanism is high. Thanks to this, it is possible to design an engine with good characteristics within normal dimensions.

It should be taken into account that the design of the mechanism provides for a heater, a refrigerator and a regenerator, a device for removing heat from the substance and returning heat at the right time.

Ideal Stirling cycle, (diagram "temperature-volume"):

Ideal circular phenomena:

• 1-2 Change in the linear dimensions of a substance with a constant temperature;
• 2-3 Removal of heat from the substance to the heat exchanger, the space occupied by the substance is constant;
• 3-4 Forced reduction of the space occupied by the substance, the temperature is constant, heat is removed to the cooler;
• 4-1 Forced increase in the temperature of the substance, the occupied space is constant, the heat is supplied from the heat exchanger.

The ideal Stirling cycle, (pressure-volume diagram):

From the calculation (mol) of a substance:

Heat input:

Heat received by the cooler:

The heat exchanger receives heat (process 2-3), the heat exchanger gives off heat (process 4-1):

R – Universal gas constant;

CV - the ability of an ideal gas to retain heat with a constant amount of space occupied.

Due to the use of a regenerator, part of the heat remains, as the energy of the mechanism, which does not change during the passing circular phenomena. The refrigerator receives less heat, so the heat exchanger saves the heat of the heater. This increases the efficiency of the installation.

Efficiency of circular phenomenon:

ɳ =

It is noteworthy that without a heat exchanger, the set of Stirling processes is feasible, but its efficiency will be much lower. Running the set of processes backwards leads to a description of the cooling mechanism. In this case, the presence of a regenerator is a mandatory condition, since when passing (3-2) it is impossible to heat the substance from the cooler, the temperature of which is much lower. It is also impossible to give heat to the heater (1-4), the temperature of which is higher.

The principle of the engine

In order to understand how the Stirling engine works, let's look at the device and the frequency of the phenomena of the unit. The mechanism converts the heat received from the heater located outside the product into a force on the body. The whole process occurs due to the temperature difference, in the working substance, which is in a closed circuit.

The principle of operation of the mechanism is based on expansion due to heat. Immediately prior to expansion, the substance in the closed circuit heats up. Accordingly, before being compressed, the substance is cooled. The cylinder itself (1) is wrapped in a water jacket (3), heat is supplied to the bottom. The piston that does the work (4) is placed in a sleeve and sealed with rings. Between the piston and the bottom there is a displacement mechanism (2), which has significant gaps and moves freely. The substance in a closed circuit moves through the volume of the chamber due to the displacer. The movement of matter is limited to two directions: the bottom of the piston, the bottom of the cylinder. The movement of the displacer is provided by a rod (5) which passes through the piston and is operated by an eccentric 90° late compared to the piston drive.

• Position "A":

The piston is located in the lowest position, the substance is cooled by the walls.

• Position "B":

The displacer occupies the upper position, moving, passes the substance through the end slots to the bottom, and cools itself. The piston is stationary.

• Position "C":

The substance receives heat, under the action of heat it increases in volume and raises the expander with the piston up. Work is done, after which the displacer sinks to the bottom, pushing out the substance and cooling.

• Position "D":

The piston goes down, compresses the cooled substance, useful work. The flywheel serves as an energy accumulator in the design.

The considered model is without a regenerator, so the efficiency of the mechanism is not high. The heat of the substance after work is removed into the coolant using the walls. The temperature does not have time to decrease by the required amount, so the cooling time is extended, the motor speed is low.

Types of engines

Structurally, there are several options using the Stirling principle, the main types are:

The design uses two different pistons placed in different contours. The first circuit is used for heating, the second circuit is used for cooling. Accordingly, each piston has its own regenerator (hot and cold). The device has a good power to volume ratio. The disadvantage is that the temperature of the hot regenerator creates design difficulties.

• Engine "β - Stirling":

The design uses one closed circuit, with different temperatures at the ends (cold, hot). A piston with a displacer is located in the cavity. The displacer divides the space into cold and hot zones. The exchange of cold and heat occurs by pumping a substance through a heat exchanger. Structurally, the heat exchanger is made in two versions: external, combined with a displacer.

• Engine "γ - Stirling":

The piston mechanism provides for the use of two closed loops: cold and with displacer. Power is taken off a cold piston. The displacer piston is hot on one side and cold on the other. The heat exchanger is located both inside and outside the structure.

Some power plants are not similar to the main types of engines:

• Rotary Stirling engine.

Structurally, the invention with two rotors on the shaft. The part performs rotational movements in a closed space cylindrical shape. A synergistic approach to the implementation of the cycle has been laid. The body contains radial slots. Blades with a certain profile are inserted into the recesses. The plates are put on the rotor and can move along the axis when the mechanism rotates. All the details create changing volumes with phenomena taking place in them. The volumes of the various rotors are connected by channels. Channel arrangements are offset by 90° to each other. The shift of the rotors relative to each other is 180°.

• Thermoacoustic Stirling engine.

The engine uses acoustic resonance to carry out processes. The principle is based on the movement of matter between a hot and a cold cavity. The circuit reduces the number of moving parts, the difficulty in removing the received power and maintaining resonance. The design refers to the free-piston type of motor.

DIY Stirling engine

Today, quite often in the online store you can find souvenirs made in the form of the engine in question. Structurally and technologically, the mechanisms are quite simple; if desired, the Stirling engine is easy to construct with your own hands from improvised means. On the Internet you can find a large number of materials: videos, drawings, calculations and other information on this topic.

Low temperature Stirling engine:

• Consider the simplest version of the wave engine, for which you will need a tin can, soft polyurethane foam, a disk, bolts and paper clips. All these materials are easy to find at home, it remains to perform the following steps:
• Take a soft polyurethane foam, cut two millimeters smaller diameter from the inner diameter tin can a circle. The height of the foam is two millimeters more than half the height of the can. Foam rubber plays the role of a displacer in the engine;
• Take the lid of the jar, make a hole in the middle, two millimeters in diameter. Solder a hollow rod to the hole, which will act as a guide for the engine connecting rod;
• Take a circle cut out of foam, insert a screw into the middle of the circle and lock it on both sides. Solder a pre-straightened paperclip to the washer;
• Drill a hole two centimeters from the center, three millimeters in diameter, thread the displacer through the central hole of the lid, solder the lid to the jar;
• Make a small cylinder out of tin, one and a half centimeters in diameter, solder it to the lid of the can in such a way that the side hole of the lid is clearly centered inside the engine cylinder;
• Do crankshaft paperclip engine. The calculation is carried out in such a way that the spacing of the knees is 90 °;
• Make a stand for the crankshaft of the engine. From polyethylene film make an elastic membrane, put the film on the cylinder, push it through, fix it;

• Make an engine connecting rod yourself, bend one end of the straightened product in the shape of a circle, insert the other end into a piece of eraser. The length is adjusted in such a way that at the lowest point of the shaft the membrane is retracted, at the extreme top point, the membrane is maximally elongated. Adjust the other connecting rod in the same way;
• Glue the engine connecting rod with a rubber tip to the membrane. Mount the connecting rod without a rubber tip on the displacer;
• Put a flywheel from the disk on the crank mechanism of the engine. Attach legs to the jar so as not to hold the product in your hands. The height of the legs allows you to place a candle under the jar.

After we managed to make a Stirling engine at home, the engine is started. To do this, a lighted candle is placed under the jar, and after the jar has warmed up, they give impetus to the flywheel.

The considered installation option can be quickly assembled at home, as visual material. If you set a goal and a desire to make the Stirling engine as close as possible to factory counterparts, there are drawings of all the details in the public domain. Stepping through each node will allow you to create a working layout that is no worse than commercial versions.

Advantages

The Stirling engine has the following advantages:

• A temperature difference is necessary for the operation of the engine, which fuel causes heating is not important;
• No need to use hinged and auxiliary equipment, the design of the engine is simple and reliable;
• The resource of the engine, due to the design features, is 100,000 hours of operation;
• The operation of the engine does not create extraneous noise, since there is no detonation;
• The process of engine operation is not accompanied by the emission of waste substances;
• Engine operation is accompanied by minimal vibration;
• Processes in the plant cylinders are environmentally friendly. Using the right heat source keeps the engine clean.

disadvantages

The disadvantages of the Stirling engine include:

• It is difficult to establish mass production, since the engine design requires the use of a large number materials;
• High weight and large dimensions of the engine, since a large radiator must be used for efficient cooling;
• To increase efficiency, the engine is forced, using as a working fluid complex substances(hydrogen, helium), which makes the operation of the unit dangerous;
• The high temperature resistance of steel alloys and their thermal conductivity complicate the engine manufacturing process. Significant heat losses in the heat exchanger reduce the efficiency of the unit, and the use of specific materials makes the manufacture of the engine expensive;
• To adjust and switch the engine from mode to mode, special control devices must be used.

Usage

The Stirling engine has found its niche and is actively used where dimensions and omnivorousness are an important criterion:

• Stirling engine-generator.

mechanism for converting heat into electrical energy. Often there are products used as portable tourist generators, installations for the use of solar energy.

• The engine is like a pump (electric).

The engine is used for installation in a circuit heating systems saving on electrical energy.

• The engine is like a pump (heater).

In countries with a warm climate, the engine is used as a space heater.

Stirling engine on a submarine:

• The engine is like a pump (cooler).

Almost all refrigerators in their design use heat pumps By installing a Stirling engine, resources are saved.

• The engine is like a pump that creates ultra-low heat levels.

The device is used as a refrigerator. To do this, the process is started in reverse side. The units liquefy gas, cool measuring elements in precise mechanisms.

• Underwater engine.

The submarines of Sweden and Japan work thanks to the engine.

Stirling engine as a solar installation:

• The engine is like a battery of energy.

Fuel in such units, salt melts, the engine is used as an energy source. In terms of energy reserves, the motor is ahead of chemical elements.

• solar engine.

Convert the sun's energy into electricity. The substance in this case is hydrogen or helium. The engine is placed in the focus of the maximum concentration of the energy of the sun, created using a parabolic antenna.

Hello! Today I want to bring to your attention homemade engine, which converts any temperature difference into mechanical work:

Stirling's engine- a heat engine in which a liquid or gaseous working fluid moves in a closed volume, a kind of external combustion engine. It is based on periodic heating and cooling of the working fluid with the extraction of energy from the resulting change in the volume of the working fluid. It can work not only from fuel combustion, but also from any heat source.

I present to your attention my engine, made from pictures from the Internet:

Seeing this miracle, I had a desire to make it)) Moreover, there were many drawings and engine designs on the Internet. I will say right away: it is not difficult to do, but it is a bit problematic to adjust and achieve normal operation. It worked fine for me only the third time (I hope you won’t suffer like that)))).

Stirling engine working principle:

Everything is made from materials available to every brain:

Well, how about without sizes)))

The frame of the engine is made of wire from paper clips. All fixed wire connections are soldered()

The displacer (the disk that moves the air inside the engine) is made of drawing paper and glued with superglue (it is hollow inside):

The smaller the gap between the covers and the displacer in the upper and lower positions, the greater the efficiency of the engine.

The displacer rod is made from a blind rivet (manufacturing: carefully pull out the inner part and, if necessary, clean it with zero sandpaper; glue the outer part to the upper “cold” cover with the cap inward). But this option has a drawback - there is no complete tightness and there is little friction, although a drop of engine oil will help get rid of it.

Piston cylinder - neck from an ordinary plastic bottle:

The piston casing is made of a medical glove and secured with a thread, which, after winding, must be impregnated with superglue for reliability. A disk made of several layers of cardboard is glued in the center of the casing, on which the connecting rod is fixed.

The crankshaft is made from the same paper clips as the entire engine frame. the angle between the knees of the piston and the displacer is 90 degrees. The working stroke of the displacer is 5 mm; piston - 8mm.

Flywheel - consists of two CD discs that are glued to a cardboard cylinder and planted on the crankshaft axis.

So, stop talking nonsense, I present to you engine running video:

The difficulties I had were mainly due to excessive friction and the lack of accurate dimensions of the structure. in the first case, a drop of engine oil and crankshaft alignment corrected the situation, then in the second, you had to rely on intuition))) But as you can see, everything turned out (though I completely redid the engine 3 times))))

If you have any questions - write in the comments, we'll figure it out)))

Thank you for your attention)))

Long searched working scheme. I found it, but it was always connected with the fact that there were problems either with equipment or with materials. I decided to make it like a crossbow. After looking at many options and wondering what I have available and what I can do on my own equipment. Those dimensions that I figured out right away, with assembled apparatus I didn't like it. It turned out too wide. I had to shorten the cylinder bed. And put the flywheel on one bearing (on one pylon). The materials flywheel, connecting rods, counterweight, sealing washer, lamp and working cylinder are bronze. Pylons, working piston, cylinder bed, cooler and washer with a thread from the flame chamber aluminum. steel. Stainless steel flame chamber. Graphite displacer. And what happened I put on display, you be the judge.

I have been watching the craftsmen on this resource for a long time, and when the article appeared, I wanted to make it myself. But as always, there was no time and I put off the idea.
But then I finally passed my diploma, graduated from the military department and it-time appeared.
It seems to me that making such an engine is much easier than a flash drive :)

First of all, I want to repent to the gurus of this site that a person in his 20s is doing such nonsense, but I just wanted to do it and there is nothing to explain this desire, I hope my next step will still be a flash drive.
So we need:
1 Wish.
2 Three tin cans.
3 Copper wire(I found a section of 2 mm).
4 Paper (newspaper or office does not matter).
5 Stationery glue (PVA).
6 Super glue (CYJANOPAN or any other in the same vein).
7 rubber glove or a balloon.
8 Wiring terminals 3 pcs.
9 Wine stopper 1 pc.
10 Some fishing line.
11 Tools to taste.

1- the first bank; 2- second; 3- third; 3-lid of the third jar; 4 - membrane; 5 - displacer; 6 - wiring terminal; 7- crankshaft; 8- tin detail :) 9- connecting rod; 10 - cork; 11- disk; 12- fishing line.
Let's start by cutting off the lids of all three cans of two cans. I did it with a homemade dremel, at first I wanted to poke holes in a circle with an awl and cut with scissors, but I remembered the miracle device.
To be honest, it didn’t turn out very nice and I accidentally milled a hole in the wall of one of the cans, so it was no longer suitable for a working container (but I had two more and I made them more carefully).


Next, we need a jar that will serve as a form for displacer(5).
Since the bazaars did not work on Monday and all the nearby auto shops were closed, but I wanted to make an engine, I allowed myself to change the original design and make a displacer out of paper, not steel wool.
To do this, I found a jar of fish food, which is the most suitable for me in size. I chose the size based on the fact that the diameter of the soda can was 53mm, so I was looking for 48-51mm so that when I wind the paper around the form, I get about 1-2mm of distance between the wall of the can and the displacer (5) for air to pass through. (I pre-glued the jar with tape so that the glue does not stick).


Next, I marked out a strip of A4 sheet by 70 mm, and cut the rest into strips of 50 mm (as in the article). To be honest, I don’t remember how many such strips I wound, well, let it be 4-5 (strips 50mm x 290mm, I did the number of layers by eye so that when the glue sets, the displacer is not soft). Each layer was smeared with PVA glue.


Then I made displacer covers from 6 layers of paper (I also glued everything and pressed round pen to squeeze out the remnants of glue and air bubbles) when I glued all the layers, I pressed them on top with books so that they would not bend.

I also cut off the bottom of the can (2) with scissors, which was intact, at a distance of about 10 mm, since the displacer did not pass through the upper hole. This will be our working capacity.
This is what happened in the end (I did not immediately cut off the lid of the jar (3), but it still has to be done to put a candle there).


Further, at a distance of about 60mm from the bottom, I also cut off that jar (3) that I still had with a lid. This bottom will serve us furnace.


Then he cut off the bottom of the second jar (1) with a sawn lid, also at a distance of 10mm (from the bottom). And put it all together.


Further, it seemed to me that if a smaller object is glued to the membrane (4) of the working cylinder (2) instead of the cover, then the design will improve and I cut out such a sample from paper. At the base is a square 15x15mm and "ears" of 10mm each. And I cut out a detail from the sample (8).


Then I drilled holes in the terminals (6) with a diameter of 2.1 or 2.5 mm (it doesn’t matter), after which I took a wire (with a cross section of 2 mm) measured 150 mm, this will be ours " crankshaft"(7). And bent it in such dimensions: the height of the displacer elbow (5) -20mm the height of the membrane elbow (4) -5mm. Between them there should be 90 degrees (no matter in which direction). Putting the terminals in their places beforehand. Also I made washers and attached them with glue so that the terminals would not hang around the crankshaft.
It didn’t work out right away and exactly in size, but I redid it again (rather for my own peace of mind).


Then I again took the wire (2mm) and cut off a piece, about 200mm, this will be the connecting rod (9) of the membrane (4), passed the part (8) through it and bent it (will be shown).
I took a jar (1) (the one with a bit of holes) and made holes in it for the “crankshaft” (7) at a distance of 30mm from the top (but it doesn’t matter). And cut through the viewing window with scissors.


Then, when the displacer cylinder (5) was dry and completely glued, I began to glue the covers to it. When I glued the covers, I threaded a wire with a section of about half a millimeter through it in order to attach the fishing line (12).


Next, I carved an axle (10) from a wooden handle to connect the disks (11) to the crankshaft, but I recommend using a wine cork.
And now the hardest part (as for me) I cut out the membrane (4) from medical gloves and glued to it the very detail (8) in the center. I placed the membrane on the working cylinder (2) and tied it with a thread, and when I began to cut off the excess parts, the membrane began to crawl out from under the thread (although I did not pull the membrane) and when it was completely cut off, I began to pull it and the membrane flew off completely.
I took super glue and glued the end of the can, and then glued the already newly prepared membrane, placing it strictly in the center, held it and waited for the glue to harden. Then he pressed it again, but this time with an elastic band, cut off the edges, removed the elastic band and glued it again (outside).
Here's what happened at the time






Next, I pierced a hole in the membrane (4) and detail (8) with a needle and threaded a fishing line (12) into them (which was also not easy).
Well, when I put everything together, this is what happened:


I admit right away that at first the engine did not work, even more, it seemed to me that it would not work at all, because I had to turn it (with a burning candle) manually and with quite a lot (as for a self-spinning engine) effort. I was completely limp and already began to scold myself that I made a displacer out of paper, that I took the wrong cans, that I made a mistake in the length of the connecting rod (9) or the displacer line (5). But after an hour of torment and disappointment, my candle completely burned out (the one in the aluminum case) and I took the remaining one from the New Year (the one that is green in the photo), it burned MUCH stronger and lo and behold, I managed to start it.
FINDINGS
1 What the displacer is made of does not matter, as I read on one of the sites “it should be light and not heat-conducting”.
2 Changing the length of the connecting rod (9) and the length of the line (12) of the displacer (5) does not matter, as I read on one of the sites “the main thing is that the displacer does not hit the top or bottom of the working chamber during operation”, so I set it approximately in the middle . And the membrane in a calm (cold) state should be even, and not stretched down or up.
Video
Video of the engine running. I put 4 disks, they are used as a flywheel. When starting, I try to raise the displacer to the upper position, as I am still afraid that it will not overheat. It should spin like this: first, the displacer rises, and then the membrane rises behind it, the displacer goes down, and the membrane falls behind it.

PS: maybe if you balance it, it will spin faster, but I have hastily I didn't manage to balance :)

Water cooled video. It doesn’t help much in work, and as you can see, it doesn’t really speed up its rotation, but with such cooling the engine can be admired for longer without fear of overheating.

And here is an approximate drawing of my prototype (large size):
s016.radikal.ru/i335/1108/3e/a42a0bdb9f32.jpg
Who will need the original (KOMPAS V 12) I can send it to the post office.

Perhaps you ask me why it is needed after all, and I will answer. Like everything in our steampunk, mostly for the soul.
Please don't be too harsh, this is my first post.