All houses built in Soviet time, it is necessary to change the pipes, in particular the sewer riser. All equipment has an expiration date. The pipes wear out, cracks appear on them, and drains seep through them and the stench spreads into the room. It becomes impossible to live in such an apartment.

To prevent the situation from reaching such a state, as soon as a leak is suspected, it is recommended to replace the sewer with a plastic one.

Replacing a cast iron pipe with a plastic one

This should be done service organizations, because cast iron riser very difficult to replace. However, it is possible to do it with your own hands.

Pipeline selection and required tools

In old houses, all pipes were installed from cast iron, including sewer pipes. Of course, it is very durable and reliable material but it also has an expiration date. Therefore, sooner or later, the time comes when it needs to be replaced.

Modern risers are made from even more durable material, which is also light and outwardly more aesthetic. Masters recommend switching to this more practical material. Steel or galvanized pipes will need to be replaced in ten to twenty years again. But if you make a replacement for polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride, then their operation is guaranteed for up to thirty to fifty years. And often it stretches over an even longer period.

And if, along with the replacement, you also take care of good ventilation, which can be purchased complete with pipes, then you can simply forget about sewer odors.

Before starting work on dismantling the pipeline, you need to make sure that all the tools necessary for this are at hand.

Since it is necessary to replace the cast-iron sewer with a plastic one in high-rise building, pre-shut off the water. Therefore, the work is done as quickly as possible.

connecting a new plastic sewer pipe with an old cast iron

Also, neighbors from above are warned not to use the toilet and water, otherwise everything will be sent to your apartment, and the neighbors below will be flooded.

To dismantle the sewer riser, the following tools are required:

• Bulgarian;
• nail puller;
• a large screwdriver to remove small items from the system;
• chisel;
• perforator;
• a hammer;
• grinder;
• film for covering the pipe hole;
• apron, gloves and goggles for personal protection.

Dismantling of the old sewer

Having decided on an independent replacement of the riser, it is best to negotiate with the neighbors so that, if necessary, they can provide access to the apartments. However, in most cases, the replacement takes place exclusively in your apartment between the floor and ceiling.

Before changing cast iron sewer on plastic, see the diagram of this pipeline.

Step-by-step instructions for removing the riser are as follows:

1. A distance of ten centimeters from the ceiling surface and eighty from the tee is calculated. Two cuts are made by a grinder. The depth should be half the diameter of the pipe.
2. A chisel is applied to the upper notch and beaten with a hammer. Then repeat the same manipulation below. The blows must be applied with sufficient force to split the pipe so that the middle part is removed.
3. The pipe from the ceiling is closed with a polyethylene film.
4. When disassembling the lower part, consisting of a tee and other fittings, arm yourself with a nail puller or crowbar to loosen the fasteners. Then remove the fitting. But basically it requires extra work with perforator. With it, the cement on the fasteners is removed.
5. Cement is chipped off with a chisel or screwdriver, and then the tee is removed. If it doesn’t work out, the fitting is cut off with a grinder, retreating up to three centimeters from the socket.
6. In the remaining places, all contaminants are removed and the cast iron is cleaned with a grinder.

Pipe installation

After removing the old pipeline, you must immediately install a new one so as not to cause unnecessary inconvenience to neighbors. But they begin the process, like the previous one, by checking all the tools necessary for this.

fixing the plastic pipe to ensure the desired slope angle

The following equipment is required for installation:

• pipes with a diameter of one hundred and ten centimeters;
• outlet tee of the same material as the riser;
• rubber sealing cuffs to fix the fasteners between protruding cast iron stumps and a plastic pipe;
• branch pipe for transition from cast iron to plastic and vice versa;
• pipe fittings;
• soap used to facilitate entry into the mounts, that is, a kind of lubricant;
• vertical building level.

Installation takes place in the reverse order compared to dismantling:

1. Rubber cuffs are inserted into the pipe cut.
2. Attach the adapter from above, and the tee from below. All parts must be fastened as tightly as possible to ensure maximum tightness. With the free movement of the tee, the connection is sealed with silicone sealant or winding of flax.
3. The plastic riser is fixed with clamps. If the ceiling height is standard, then they usually manage with three pieces: for the top, bottom and middle. If it is high, then you need to purchase additional connections.
4. The system is pre-assembled.
5. A pipe must be lowered into the tee to connect plastic and cast iron.
6. Each mount is lubricated with silicone sealant and waiting for it to solidify.
7. Then turn on the water and check the pipe connections for leaks. If everything is in order, then this part of the work can be considered completed.

Noise isolation and causes

Of course, PVC and polypropylene pipes are much better than cast iron pipes. They last longer, have an aesthetic appearance and are much cheaper. However, they have one major drawback. This is noise. At first, even experienced specialists did not know how to deal with this. But today, as soon as pipes are installed, they begin to deal with noise and sound insulation. It's not hard at all to do this on your own. Therefore, do not be afraid! Having done such work, you will forget what the noise from the pipe is.

plastic pipe installation check valve and connection with cast iron riser pipe

One way to achieve the effect of soundproofing does not yet exist. Therefore, different ones are used, depending on the design, acoustic features and the presence of certain materials.

Why cast iron pipes do not make a sound, and modern plastic ones are so noisy? After conducting special studies, several causes of extraneous sounds from the riser were revealed. Among them are:

• impact sounds occur when the contents hit the walls of the pipes, making noise;
• atmospheric phenomena occur when the wind howls, the sound of rain or even hail;
• resonance manifestations appear during the transmission of extraneous noise;
• vibration sounds are transmitted from the whole structure, the movement of underground transport, and so on.

The pipe itself, due to its shape, suggests the possibility of perception and transmission of different nature of sounds. But the material from which it is made is also important. Those cast-iron risers that still stand in old buildings do not make noise for this very reason. After all, it is not completely metal. It is an alloy that consists of different grains that differ in composition and properties. Due to this, sound absorption is ensured, as the grains rub against each other and reduce vibration.

cutting an old cast iron pipe

In addition, such pipes are coated from the inside, which in itself plays the role of an excellent sound insulator, despite the fact that the movement Wastewater slows down.

Installation of soundproofing

The main task of soundproofing in an apartment is to minimize noise and, if possible, dampen vibration.

The ideal option is to purchase special noise-absorbing pipes. Some companies manufacture and install such risers. They include plastic with the addition of mineral powder. This provides a material having properties similar to cast iron. However, these pipes are expensive and may not be affordable for many. In addition, their service life, as a rule, does not exceed twenty years.

Therefore, plastic pipes are mainly used for replacement, followed by insulation from noise and sound.

They are isolated from the walls with damper clamps, and from the ceilings - with polyurethane foam plates.

In order to eliminate unpleasant gurgling in pipes, polyurethane foam or polystyrene is used. Both the riser and the wiring are wrapped around so that sound is not transmitted.

In addition, you can use polyethylene foam, but such material is extremely short-lived and can begin to sour and even stick after the first hot summer.

Replacing the sewer riser - although hard work, but even a beginner can handle it. However, if you are not confident in your abilities or the pipes in the house are heavily rusted, then it is better to resort to the help of specialists and entrust the work to them, because otherwise you risk flooding both your apartment and your neighbors from below.

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Pipes made of plastic are used to create pipelines different type due to many advantages - resistance to corrosion, low weight, easy installation. Therefore, replacing a cast-iron sewer with a plastic one is a great solution, but dismantling old pipes is not so easy. This job requires experience using power tools. When replacing, safety rules must be observed. How plastic products look can be seen in the photo. Advantages plastic pipes:

• low price compared to other types of similar products;
• durability (serve for several decades);
• do not rust;
• light weight, which facilitates the installation process and allows you to do it yourself.

Preparing to replace the cast-iron sewer with plastic

Do-it-yourself dismantling of a cast-iron sewer begins with the preparation of tools.

The work is done using:

• chisels;
• hammer with a nozzle (rubber or wooden);
• perforator;
• chisels;
• 2 adjustable wrenches, knives, screwdriver, crowbar, steel wedge for disassembling pipe parts;
• grinders, grinding disc and 3-4 pieces of 125 mm discs.

Before dismantling, it is determined how the cast-iron parts (in particular, crosses and tees) were connected to the shaped section, for which it is necessary to find the connection point - usually it is located higher than the level floor covering. If the floor is tiled or there is a screed, then a punch or a chisel will be required to search. You need to work with them carefully - you can not damage the socket remaining in the ceiling.

The connection between tees, crosses and pipes can be made in three ways:

• filling with gray;
• polymer cement mixture;
• caulking with a solution. You can use cement-sand or cement.

Dismantling of the old cast-iron sewer

As for how to dismantle the cast-iron sewer, this work takes place in stages:

1. The vertical pipe is cut with a pipe cutter. If it doesn't exist, then this work can be done with a grinder by making two cuts with an interval of 10-15 centimeters from one another. They need to be placed at a slight angle relative to each other, and converge near the wall, where the pipe is not cut, so that its top does not sink. The product is cut 3/4 relative to the perimeter. Using a wedge driven in on both sides, the cut section is broken out with a chisel, and the remains are knocked out with a hammer. The pieces are taken out carefully so that they do not fall into the sewer and thereby clog the system.
2. In the future, cut off the upper edge at a specific height. In order to easily connect the cast-iron sewer with the plastic one in the future, a section of the pipe coming from the ceiling is left at the top. Its height must correspond to the parameters of the shaped product pressed during the installation of plastic products. The cut is performed relative to the horizontal line, so the place of cut is preliminarily marked with masking tape. Applying a sharp blow directed towards the wall, the pipe is destroyed in the place where the incision was made. Cast iron products are fragile, and there can be no problem with this.
3. Usually at the riser, the lower part has several components. They can be revisions, couplings and other elements. To check the strength of the connection, you need to carefully, trying not to damage the lower socket, swing the rest of the pipe. If possible, they begin to pull it out in parts, helping with a crowbar.

Replacing a cast-iron sewer with a plastic one with your own hands cannot be called particularly difficult. If the connection of the pipe with the fittings is rigid, then to disassemble the structure, it is necessary to clear the junction by loosening the product. When the junction of the connecting elements expands significantly, you can use a puncher with a thin drill that does not have a victorious tip. The solution connecting the elements is carefully trying to hammer, and the remains are removed with a chisel.

Dismantling can be difficult if there is practically no seam, and the mortar has glued the elements together too firmly. In this case, an old metal sheet is used to expand the joint. If in the end it was not possible to disassemble the connection, then you should cut off shaped part 2-3 centimeters above the joint.

The piece of pipe that remains in the socket is cut with a grinder, while removing the protection, at different angles of inclination of the disk. Shards of pipes left inside shaped products removed with a special wedge.

There is nothing complicated about how to disassemble an old cast-iron sewer. You just need to be patient.

Preparing for the installation of plastic pipes with your own hands

Materials required for replacement:

• plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 millimeters;
• fasteners for the riser;
• rubber cuff (sewer transition from cast iron to plastic);
• shaped elements made of plastic (cross, tee, expansion pipe, sometimes revision).

As for the tools, you will need:

The pipes are cut to the estimated length, at the end should be chamfered or sanded. To accurately determine the length of the product, an expansion pipe is placed into it until it stops. Then the resulting structure is also inserted to the limit into the remainder of the cast-iron pipe located in the upper ceiling. Minimum size the gap that should remain between the tee or cross and the resulting assembly cannot be less than half a centimeter. Pre-assembly perform without using rubber gaskets and cuffs.

Regarding how to dock a cast-iron sewer with a plastic one, it does not make sense to use pipes instead of sliding sleeves for this purpose. See also: "How to close the pipes in the toilet - options for how to hide, decorate the pipes".

Several fasteners are placed in the wall. If the ceilings have a standard height, then three pieces are enough, if they are high, then 4.

To perform the final assembly, they mount all the required cuffs and gaskets, apply soap to the ends of the products, and connect the pipes. After the final installation of the riser and the completion of the clamping of the mounting clamps, the operability of the sewer is checked by passing a large volume of water through it. The replacement can be considered finally completed only after the successful completion of the tests.

There is nothing complicated in how to change a cast-iron sewer to a plastic one. You just need to follow the instructions exactly. If there are doubts that it will be possible to do this work correctly, it is worth contacting specialists. plastic sewer, on condition correct execution work, will last for decades without requiring repair. For this reason, if cast-iron pipes leak, it is better to immediately change them to plastic ones.

If you are still the owner of old cast-iron sewer pipes, then this article is for you, because sooner or later you will face the question of replacing cast-iron pipes with plastic ones. And it is better if this replacement is planned, and not emergency. However, if you have the smallest skills in plumbing, then if you have an assistant and the ability to use such a tool as a grinder, you can do it yourself.

First you need to decide on the section of cast iron pipes that you want to replace. If these are riser pipes (according to the laws of the Russian Federation, amendments to sewer risers apartment buildings - FORBIDDEN), then you will need plastic pipes of the same diameter 110, if these are sewer pipes for distributing around your apartment, then you will need plastic pipes with a diameter of 50. The simplicity of connecting these pipes does not require any special knowledge. Plastic pipes are connected to each other using a socket located at one end of the pipe and a sealing gum inserted into a special groove in the pipe socket. After connection, these pipes are attached to the wall using special clamps.
The greatest laboriousness of replacement is the dismantling of cast-iron sewer pipes. Pipes lend themselves well to cutting with a grinder. It is very important to take into account the need to use goggles and a respirator. Otherwise, you will provide yourself with a severe runny nose and cough. If it is possible to dismantle the cast-iron pipe to the socket, then you will make your life easier and there will be less difficulty for you when joining the plastic pipe and the cast-iron pipe.

But even if you don't succeed, don't despair.

There are special transitional couplings, with which you will be able to dock and connect a plastic pipe with a cast iron one. Do not be embarrassed by the fact that you cannot cut the cast-iron pipe completely. It is enough to cut it a little more than half in a circle and with a slight displacement or an attempt to rotate along the axis, it bursts. The main thing you should know is that cast iron is a very brittle metal, so it is undesirable to use a hammer with a metal nozzle, in order to avoid breaking off a piece of cast iron pipe and getting it inside. Thus, it can clog or significantly reduce the clearance of the sewer pipe and create additional problems. It is better to use a hammer with a rubber or wooden nozzle.
In the absence of a grinder, you can use a regular hacksaw, but the work time will increase significantly. It is also recommended to take into account inspection hatches when installing plastic pipes. They are neglected by many, allegedly because they are not needed, but believe that home designers have provided them for a reason. So if it happens emergency situation in the riser on your floor, then in the absence of an inspection hatch, you will have to cut the pipe and additional financial costs on your part.
If your sewer riser does not pass through closed well, then after replacing the cast-iron sewer with a plastic one, it is possible to increase the noise during the passage of sewage through the riser, because the wall of a plastic pipe is much thinner than a cast-iron pipe. But this problem is very easy to solve if, when installing plastic sewer pipes apply a special silent sewer. And the holes between the floors at the place where the risers pass can easily be closed using mounting foam.
I think using this article and having the smallest skills in working with plumbing, it will not be difficult for you to replace your old cast-iron sewer pipes with new plastic ones that do not require any maintenance, are not subject to corrosion and other disadvantages of cast-iron pipes. And by making this replacement, you will also save yourself from the danger of being flooded. sewerage, from the danger of flooding neighbors living on the floor below, as well as from unpleasant odors that occur during the destruction of the cast-iron sewer.

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The technology of replacing a cast-iron sewer pipe with a plastic one

The undoubted advantages of a plastic pipe - low weight, resistance to corrosion, ease of installation - ensured its wide application in pipelines for various purposes. If you have to replace cast iron sewer pipes with plastic ones, you should remember that dismantling the old ones is not an easy task. It requires certain skills when working with an electric tool and strict adherence to safety rules.

The beginning of the dismantling of the cast-iron sewer

Before you start dismantling the riser, you need to stock up essential tool, for this you will need:

• perforator;
• hammer, best with a wooden or rubber nozzle;
• chisel;
• angle grinder (angle grinder), called "grinder", to it - three or four cutting discs with a diameter of 125 mm and one grinding;
• a knife, a chisel, a screwdriver, two adjustable wrenches, a crowbar, a steel wedge used to disassemble parts of cast-iron sewer pipes.

To provide safe conduct work must be prepared: respirator, goggles, headgear.

Partitioning must be done very carefully.

Dismantling must begin with determining how the connection of cast-iron parts - tees or crosses - was made with the fittings of sewer pipes. To do this, find the junction, which, as a rule, is located above the floor level. If there is an additional screed or tile on the floor, then in order to find the connection, you must use a chisel or puncher. When working with these tools, care must be taken not to damage the socket that remains in the slab.

The connection of tees and crosses with a pipe could be performed in several ways:

• caulking with cement-sand or cement mortar;
• using a polymer cement mortar;
• filling with gray.

Dismantling the cast iron sewer

Consists of several stages:

The pipe connection must be as tight as possible.

1. To cut a vertical pipe, it is best to use a pipe cutter. In the absence of a pipe cutter, a cast-iron pipe can be sawn with a "grinder" by making two almost horizontal cuts located at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from each other. The cuts should be at a slight angle to each other, converging near the wall where the pipe must be left uncut to prevent the top of the cast iron pipe from sinking. The pipe should be cut three-quarters from the perimeter. Using a wedge hammered on the left and right, the cut segment must be broken out with a chisel, the rest should be knocked out with a hammer. The piece must be removed carefully, preventing it from falling into the pipe and, as a result, clogging the sewer.
2. Further, the dismantling of the sewer consists in cutting the upper edge of the pipe at the calculated height. In order to later easily connect the remaining cast-iron pipe with the plastic one, a piece of pipe coming out of top floor. The height of the left segment must be equal to the size of the shaped element that will be pressed at. The cut must be carried out in a horizontal plane, so it is better to pre-mark the cut line with masking tape. A sharp blow towards the wall causes cracking of the pipe in the place where the incision was previously made. Cast iron pipes are very fragile, so this action should not cause much difficulty.
3. The lower part of the riser usually consists of several parts. These can be couplings, revisions, compensating pipes. To check how firmly the connection was made, it is necessary to gently, without damaging the lower socket, swing the rest of the cast-iron pipe. If the pipe sways, then you can begin to pull out all the components, if necessary, helping yourself with a crowbar.

If the connection of the fittings with the pipe is very rigid, then in order to disassemble the structure, it is necessary to clear the joint as much as possible, periodically loosening the pipe. With a significant width of the joint of the connected elements, you can use a perforator with a thin drill without a victorious tip. The mortar that connected the elements is carefully hollowed out, and its remains are removed with a chisel.

Dismantling is much more difficult if there is almost no seam, and the mortar connected the structural elements very firmly.

In this case, an old metal sheet is used, with which you can try to clear the joint. If all previous attempts to disassemble the connection were unsuccessful, then you need to cut off the shaped part 2-3 cm above the junction of the connected elements. The piece of pipe remaining in the socket is cut with a “grinder” with removed protection under different angles disc inclination. Pieces of fittings remaining inside the sewer pipes are removed using a special wedge.

After carrying out all these operations, the dismantling of the cast-iron sewer can be considered completed.

Preparing for the installation of a plastic sewer pipe

In order for the cast iron to plastic to be carried out quickly and efficiently, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
• plastic fittings, it can be a tee, a cross, an expansion pipe, if necessary, a transition pipe and revision;
• rubber cuff, with which you can connect plastic with cast iron;
• stand mounts.

From the tool for installing the sewer you will need: a puncher, a hammer, a mandrel in the form of a semicircle, which serves to lower the compensation pipe; marker, liquid soap, plumb line.

Installation of plastic pipes

Replacing a sewer riser starts with an insert rubber cuff into the socket of the lower section of the pipe. A cross or a tee is installed in the cuff, the end of which is lubricated liquid soap. If the connection is not tight enough, then it must be sealed with linen winding or silicone.

The pipe is cut to the estimated length, the end is chamfered or sanded with sandpaper. For exact definition the length of the pipe, it is necessary to insert the expansion pipe into it until it stops. The resulting structure is also inserted all the way into the segment of the cast-iron pipe remaining in the upper ceiling. The minimum gap that must remain between the fitting - a tee or a cross - and the resulting assembly must be at least 0.5 cm. rubber gaskets. It is not advisable to connect pipes with sliding sleeves instead of expansion pipes.

Fasteners are installed in the wall: 3 pieces - for standard height ceilings, 4 pieces - for high ceilings.

For final assembly it is necessary to install all the necessary gaskets and cuffs, lubricate the ends of the pipes with liquid soap, connect the pipes. After the riser is fully installed and all fastening clamps are clamped, it is necessary to check the sewer in operation by passing a significant amount of water through it. And only after a successful test can be considered fully completed.

Due to the fact that the plastic riser provides sound insulation worse than cast iron, it is advisable to subsequently arrange a protective box.

For owners of old houses, replacing cast-iron sewer pipes with plastic ones is a very relevant topic. Over time, such a drainage system wears out and becomes unusable. Yes and appearance such a design leaves much to be desired. To solve the described problems, the replacement of the old structure with a new one helps.

Dismantling of sewerage from cast-iron pipes refers to plumbing work high complexity, which require special knowledge and skills, as well as unquestioning compliance with safety rules. Before undertaking work on your own, you need to objectively assess your capabilities. An unsuccessful replacement of pipes is fraught with flooding of the apartment from below and other unpleasant consequences.

The best option is to negotiate with the neighbors to replace the entire riser. This may be very difficult and time consuming, but this method is the most effective.

If you decide to install new pipes only in your apartment, such actions still require coordination with the residents of the entrance. First you need to agree on the implementation of plumbing measures, then on checking the correct functioning of the system.

Dismantling

Work begins with a riser. The pipe is sawn at a distance of about 0.6 m from the floor and 0.1 m from the ceiling. As a rule, two cuts are made with a narrow jumper. It breaks with a hammer, after which the cylindrical structure can be removed. It is very difficult to complete this task without an assistant. It is necessary that one worker break the jumper, and the second - hold the pipe.

All manipulations are performed with care. Otherwise, part of the riser in the ceiling may be damaged. However, this is not a problem when the structure is replaced along the entire line. Dismantling the riser - the most laborious process, while other components of the sewer are removed much easier and faster.

When might a gas burner be required?

Basically, in old buildings, sewer sealing was carried out using sulfur, which is not so easy to remove. However, this can be done with fire. Upon contact with such a substance, harmful vapors appear, therefore it is necessary to use a respirator.

When sealing is made using cement mortar, it must be crushed and cleaned. It is important here not to violate the integrity of the lower part of the pipe.

Upon completion of the dismantling, the junction of the old and new sewer products must be thoroughly cleaned.

How to remove the bottom of the pipe if it is filled with concrete and the joint is not treated with sulfur

The lower section of the cylindrical structure usually consists of several parts, such as a coupling, an expansion pipe, etc. The first thing to do is to check all joints for strength. To do this, you need to shake the pipe in the upper part, only very carefully so as not to damage the lower socket. If it loosens a little, you must carefully remove all the elements. The cross also needs to be removed using a nail puller.

When the mentioned fitting is firmly fixed, you must first clean the joint deeper. If its clearance allows, you can use a puncher with a narrow drill, but without a winning tip. The solution filling the joint crumbles around the perimeter and is removed with a chisel.

If there is no seam, and the cross is fixed firmly, you can try to clean the junction with a metal file. When such manipulations do not help, the part will have to be cut 2-3 cm above the socket. The riser hole must be covered with a rag and fixed with a rope. This is done so that pieces of cast iron do not fall into the structure.

The next step is to carefully cut the rest of the cylindrical product from the socket using a grinder without protection. It is important here not to spoil the funnel-shaped extension itself, which remains in the ceiling. A special wedge is required to remove all fragments of the product from the socket.

Removing the cross when the joint is sealed with gray

The connecting part itself is not cut off, but its extension with a diameter of 100 mm must be removed. Now you can work blowtorch in the pipe, providing the necessary heating of the structure. On top of the product, it is required to install an asbestos or metal shield to adjust the draft in the riser.

In the case when there are holes at the bottom near the socket, for example, obtained during installation water pipes, through them hot sulfur can penetrate into the neighbor's plumbing unit from below. To prevent this from happening, the holes must be covered with plaster or cement composition. Small cracks can be repaired with mineral wool. The riser itself is sealed with a lump of fire-resistant materials to prevent the ingress of molten sulfur.

Warming up is carried out evenly, only the angle of inclination and the direction of fire movement change. This process must be controlled, otherwise the bell may split, as evidenced by a powerful bang. However, this rarely happens. Usually pipes made of low quality cast iron burst.

One way or another, if the groove clearance allows, it is recommended to clean out as much sulfur as possible before starting work, using a drill with an elongated drill or a hammer drill, but without a victorious tip. It must be borne in mind that heated liquid sulfur can flow in or splash out. However, when cooled, it quickly takes solid state. Frozen pieces are best set aside at some distance from the flame of the burner.

It is not required to use a gas mask or special masks before the sulfur begins to burn. However, do not forget that from strong fire liquid substance may boil and start splashing out. To protect your face and eyes, it is recommended to wear special goggles when working with heating elements.

Periodically, you need to check the mobility of the cross, shaking or hitting with a hammer from different sides. As soon as you notice that play appears, you must stop heating and proceed to remove the part using two adjustable wrenches. It is required to gently swing the element in different sides, then lift it up.

You need to be extremely careful, because the edges of the cross are quite fragile and can crumble when captured with keys.

If drops of burning sulfur remain on the surface of the connecting part of the pipeline, it can be lowered into a metal bucket filled with cold liquid. Next, you need to clean the remains of sulfur and soot inside the bell using an old chisel or a sharp penknife. Only after the funnel-shaped expansion has completely cooled down, you can proceed with the installation of a plastic riser.

Installation of plastic pipes

It is important to follow three basic rules:

1. The work is done exclusively from the bottom up.
2. All pipes are mounted as if against the flow of water.
3. In case when plastic product does not fit tightly into cast iron, linen fabric for winding or a silicone-containing polymer composition may be required.

To make the cuffs inserted into the junctions of new plastic pipes with old cast iron pipes easier to install, they can be lubricated with soap. Particular care must be taken when cutting pipes to the required length. A special cuff and a cross are inserted into the lower cut. It is important to make sure that the connections are tight.

A compensating pipe is placed in the cut pipe. The assembly must be attached to the upper cut of the riser. The distance to the lower part with the built-in fitting must be more than 5 mm. All measurements are made without rubber inserts and cuffs. They must be used in final assembly. Next, fasteners are installed in the wall. For a vertically placed riser, three fasteners are sufficient at the usual height of the supporting structures.

After that the build is done vertical element pipelines and other components of the sewerage system. Upon completion of the installation of the structure, it must be tested. best method is the passage through new system large volume of water. If there are no leaks, then the job was done successfully.

As you can see, replacing cast-iron sewer pipes with plastic ones is quite laborious and difficult process. Therefore, it is recommended to entrust such work to a specialist who has all the necessary knowledge and skills.