Furniture edges: types, photos. How to glue furniture edge? How to glue an edge on a chipboard at home How to glue a pvc edge

Today I again tried to glue 0.4 mm PVC edge with an iron. My previous attempts failed (the edge melted before the glue, shrank even at the lowest heat levels. In general, nothing worked). Based on these experiments, I concluded that this is not possible at all. I confess, I was wrong - thanks to the guys - they convinced me. I picked up another iron - newer and again took up experiments.

Since I don’t have a glue applicator, I decided to use the method of applying glue from the melamine edge directly to the workpiece, which I also read about somewhere on the web. For work, I needed an iron (more precisely, two - see below), a sanding block (best not with an abrasive, but with felt - it will also flash in subsequent photos), a melamine edge - any color, a PVC edge (which we will glue) and a metal ruler or here is such a square. I will give a larger view of both types of edges (the photo shows that PVC is without glue, while melamine has a thermal adhesive layer applied).

To begin with, we fix the workpiece on a workbench, preferably vertically.

Then we apply a piece of melamine edge to it and smooth it with a hot iron (we set the heating regulator to the second position).

Having ironed in one direction, we begin the movement of the iron in the other, tearing off the edge until the glue has cooled.

We see that the glue remains on the workpiece.

Another photo, more visual. It can be seen that there is almost no glue left on the melamine tape, while it is present on the workpiece.

Now cut off a piece of pvc tapes of the desired length (with a small traditional stock)

At first I tried to glue it again with my old iron (letting it cool beforehand) the result is deplorable. The edge immediately shriveled up.

Then I took up the next generation iron (which I wringed out from my mother-in-law) and set it to the very minimum.

Moved the edging tape to the right so that the deformed piece did not lie on the surface to be treated and began to smooth it with an iron. Things are progressing more slowly than with.

Warming up in one direction, we begin to move the iron in the opposite direction, smoothing the edge tape after it with the palm of your hand.

Surplus from the ends lends itself perfectly to simple scissors.

The cut is perfectly even and does not require additional finishing. (but if necessary, you can rub a bar with a fine abrasive a couple of times).

To trim the overhangs on the edges, it is advisable to lay the detail horizontally .. Personally, it’s so much more convenient for me. They, as in the case of melamine, lend themselves perfectly to a metal ruler, driven at an angle shown in the photo.

The cut is a little rough. It should be polished.
This is done with a felt bar, with which we make several movements along the edge at an angle.

Turning the workpiece over, I found a non-glue zone. Not pleasant, but not fatal.

Again we take the iron and press the non-glued area for 20-30 seconds.
Then we change the iron to a felt bar, with which we also press it until the glue cools.

The result is such a PVC-sealed butt end.
This technique is well suited for big parts especially when melamine edging is not suitable and edging is not available for some reason. But in terms of time, it is quite costly.

You will need

- PVC edge;
- a bar with glued skin;
- file;
- iron or building hair dryer;
- glue, fabric.

Instruction

Examine the inside of the edge. If you see that it has an adhesive coating, take the iron and turn it on to the "" mode. Lay the edge on the clean chipboard end or on a fresh, even cut, cleaned of wood dust. The edge should be the entire cut, it is wider in width, so it's easy.

Start heating the edge with the iron. To do this, use the newspaper as a spacer between the iron and the edge. When you feel that the edge has begun to warm up and stick, move the iron further, and smooth the heated edge using a cloth. Smooth out until the edge is cool. Repeat throughout.

In the absence of inner surface PVC edges of the adhesive layer, use any universal adhesive, for example, "Moment". Before applying glue to the surface of the edge and end of the chipboard, check that the end is free of dust and sawdust. Is it even and smooth enough?

Apply glue to both surfaces to be glued and wait for a while, according to the instructions for the glue. Then, tightly pressing the edge to the end with a cloth or a special roller.

Check if the edge is glued tightly enough, if there is a loose fit somewhere. If there are such places, repeat this operation. Take a file, and only when everything is firmly glued, the edge protruding beyond the edges can be chipped off. To do this, hold the file with both hands, and with its plane press on the protruding part of the edge from the side of the edged end and break off towards the countertop along the entire length.

Finish the chipped end of the edge with sandpaper.

note

If you carefully glued the edge, then when it is chipped, the chip line will never go to the already glued part.

Helpful advice

Instead of an iron, you can use a building hair dryer. In this case, the edge is heated from the side of the adhesive composition to such a state in which it becomes soft, and then applied to the surface of the chipboard.

Sources:

what to glue the edge on

The edge tape is intended for gluing the ends of furniture made of chipboard. It increases their strength, protecting them from moisture and preventing the impregnation from evaporating. It can also be used to restore such furniture. Even a novice carpenter is able to cope with this material. It is most often made of decorative paper, which is impregnated with special resins.

You will need

- edging tape;
- detail from chipboard:
- a sharp knife;
- scissors:
- board;
- abrasive sponge;
- round screwdriver;
- metal long ruler;
- iron.

Instruction

Choose an edge band. She happens different widths. Choose the one that matches not only in color, but also in the thickness of the part. Usually its width is from 1.8 to 4.5 cm. The tape can be slightly wider than the surface you are going to cover, but not by much.

Clean the edge of the plywood. Remove dust from it. Start with the end that will be less noticeable. This is necessary to hide the joints of the tapes. The glued surface should not have noticeable irregularities. Of course, the tape will cut some of them, but it is better to remove large bulges and notches.

Examine the tape carefully. It should not have joints that are formed when connecting individual tapes into a roll. Usually these joints are invisible. However, they can greatly spoil the look of the product if you are going to apply any kind of coating on the film.

Measure the length and width of the surface to be glued. Cut the ribbon about 0.3 cm wider than the end and about 2.5 mm longer. Make it more convenient ballpoint pen along the railroad. It is also better to cut the tape along the ruler sharp knife like a shoe. The blade must be sharp. However, you can cut with scissors.

Set the iron knob to "cotton" and let it heat up. First glue the rounded corners. Determine the midline of the end, you can even draw it along the entire length. Find the middle and put it on the end of the part, aligning the center lines. Slowly iron first one half of the tape, and then the other. You need to press hard enough so that the adhesive layer melts, and the tape lies on the rounded corner evenly and without wrinkles. Pay special attention to the edges. If they are not pressed enough, the tape will come off the part. While the adhesive is still hot, smooth out the coating with a round screwdriver or similar tool.

Let the glue cool for ten minutes. Then heat up the iron again and smooth the tape to the edges of the bottom and top surfaces of the piece. In this case, it is better to place the iron at an angle so that the adhesion line is thinner. Press firmly on the iron, but not abruptly. After the glue has cooled down again, remove the excess tape. For circumcision edging tape exist at right angles special tools, but you can do with a fairly sharp knife. Before cutting off excess pieces of the edge, do not forget to look at the direction of the fibers of the part itself. If they are directed downwards, it is better to cut from right to left, and if upwards, vice versa.

Sand the surface of the plywood along the edges of the edging tape. Remove all irregularities. Keep the sponge straight in relation to the corners of the part. Instead of a sponge, you can use a piece of Velcro sandpaper attached to a bar.

Why else edge furniture

In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, furniture edging performs several other equally important tasks:

Moisture protection. It is known that when wet, chipboard swells, loses original shape and strength. The edge from plastic interferes with penetration of moisture from ends. This is especially true for rooms where water flows are constantly present - kitchen, bathroom, dining room, etc.

The edge, in addition to giving the furniture a finished look, performs several more important functions.

Insect and mold protection. porous surface particle boards well suited for the reproduction of various microorganisms that destroy the internal structure of the material. If glued to the edge protective film, the service life of the furniture will increase markedly.

Fighting harmful substances . As you know, in the production of chipboard, formaldehyde resins are used, the vapors of which can be released during operation through open ends. The edging tape prevents these substances from escaping into the environment.

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Where to hem

Furniture manufacturers often edging only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this looks quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can result in certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal chipboard structure.

If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, it is quite possible to do their edging yourself at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with an ordinary iron.

Do not be too lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will analyze in detail how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.

Edge materials

The edging of open surfaces of furniture can be performed using different decorative elements, differing in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.

Melamine tape. The simplest and cheapest edge. It is used in budget products and can be destroyed by moisture or mechanical influences. The main advantage of such a tape is the price and ease of application.

Advantages and disadvantages of melamine edging

PVC edge. May be 0.4 or 2 mm thick. It is customary to glue a thicker tape on the front surfaces, and a thin one - on hidden ends. Such an edge protects furniture well from chips and impact loads, but gluing it at home is difficult - this requires special equipment.

ABS plastic. The most durable option. Edging with plastic is made only in production.

T-profile . It was used in the past, when there were few specialized edging machines, and milling machines stood in every shop. A cutter cut a longitudinal groove in the end, into which the edge is inserted.

Applied T-profile. Edge banding with T-profile convenient option for independent application. It is enough just to stick it on the end of the chipboard with the help of liquid nails or glue. The disadvantage of this solution is the edge protruding above the surface, which increases the thickness of the product and after a while becomes clogged with dirt.

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How to glue the edge with an iron

Edging in production is done with a tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation when high temperature, providing the formation of a thin even layer. In order to stick the edge, several rollers are used, tightly pressing it to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove the remnants of glue and base material and grind the junction until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.

You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use a tape with an already applied adhesive composition. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed similarly:

Melamine tape can be glued with an ordinary household iron. To do this, it is necessary to cut off a piece of the edge with a margin in length and width, put it on the end face to be processed and gently smooth it with an iron. The heated surface after passing through the iron must be pressed with wooden block or any other object capable of transmitting the necessary load.

When heated, the glue firmly glues the edge to the chipboard

After the chipboard edge tape is glued, it is necessary to cut off its hanging ends and process the edge surface. The tape is cut with a sharp knife, located strictly perpendicular to the plane of the end.

The edge trimming knife must be very sharp.

After cutting, the edge must be sanded. This can be done using a bar with fixed sanding paper.

You can find more information about the process of gluing edges on chipboard below:

Sticking a U-shaped profile on the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have discussed this method before. Such an edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.

The presence of microgaps between the edge of the U-profile and the front surface of the chipboard does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or in the bathroom, therefore, edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.

Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. In production, you can order a tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on the machine will ensure perfect evenness and accuracy of application decorative cladding, but requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying a melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the lowest price.

Edging tools:

Iron. Any will do, but preferably small sizes, without steam holes and with a thick sole. It is important that the soleplate of the iron is clean and without deep scratches.
Knife. You can work with an ordinary clerical (construction) knife, which will be discussed below. Also, a shoe knife and a knife from a planer are suitable. There are special ready-made devices for fast edge trimming, for example, from Virutex.
Bar with sandpaper. You can buy ready-made or make it yourself by sticking a piece of sandpaper on a workpiece that is suitable in size (it is convenient when the bar has different sides sandpaper of different grits). The recommended grain size is 150 units.

Edge technology.

It should be said that the quality of the edging largely depends on how well the chipboard is cut. The surface of the end face of the part should be flat, without a visible step from the scoring (saw) disk of the panel saw, there should be no obvious chips of the laminate and “lifting” of the laminate when the chip had just begun to form. Quality and fast cutting chipboard performed only on special equipment. The edge must be used with pre-applied adhesive. Edgebanding is sold in coils of 200 pm, but almost always it can be bought in 1 pm or more. A typical melamine edge has a width of 19 mm and a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm (excluding adhesive thickness).
The process of processing the edge of one end of the part consists of the following steps:

The part is installed vertically in an improvised holding device so that the end face being machined is on top.
The edge segment is measured 2-4 cm more than the length of the machined side of the part.
The edge is placed exactly in the center on the end of the part, with equal releases along the edges.
Holding the position of the edge on the part with one hand, the edge is smoothed with a hot iron (the temperature of the iron is selected experimentally; if the temperature is too high, the edge starts to bubble, if it is low, it sticks badly or for a long time). It should be pressed with moderate force on the iron. Excessive pressure may cause edge displacement, insufficient pressure may cause non-glue. Indirect confirmation of good edge heating can be slightly squeezed out glue from under the edge. Particular attention should be paid to the ends of the edge and the points of contact with the laminated surfaces of the part.
After warming up the edge, it must be cooled. A small cloth is suitable for this operation. The edge is smoothed with a cloth, pressing lightly so that the edge does not move away when cooling. After the edge has cooled down to approx. 50°C (wait until the edge has room temperature makes no sense), you can start cutting off the excess.
First remove the excess from the ends. To do this, the free ends of the edge are gently bent down, the edge is broken, the fracture site is lightly sanded with an emery bar and the excess is simply torn off. It remains to work a little more with an emery bar so that the edge is flush with the mating side (does not protrude or cling).
To cut off the excess edge along the length, it is necessary to set the knife blade at an angle of approximately 45 ° (see photo) and draw the knife along the end of the part. Angle of inclination (adjacent) relative to the plane of the part is determined experimentally (depending on the knife). This operation requires skill and practice. It is important not to damage the laminate (do not chip). After cutting off all the overhangs, you need to slightly process the edges of the end of the part with a bar with sandpaper, and the edging can be considered complete. Excess glue can be easily removed with a cloth soaked in acetone or gasoline. If a local non-glue is noticed, then the problem area must be heated with an iron and pressed again with a cloth. Also, by reheating, the edge can be completely removed from the part.

Edging kit: iron, knife, bar with sandpaper.

Bar with glued sandpaper.

Knife.

We measure the edge.

We leave a small margin in length.

Smooth the edge with a hot iron.

The fracture site has been sanded.

We sew flush.

If you yourself make furniture from laminated chipboard or MDF, then after cutting the sheets, you need to protect their end parts, which will increase the service life of the product and give it a beautiful appearance. For this, PVC edge for furniture is often used, but there are other varieties. In this article we will talk about all types, the need for edging and how to stick it with your own hands.

Self-adhesive furniture edge - a narrow strip of melamine, PVC, ABS or other material. It protects and decorates the place of the cut. In the production of cheap furniture from chipboard edge simply necessary, as it saves people from exposure to harmful formaldehyde. In addition, it gives strength and protects the material from moisture ingress.

Edge types

The following types of furniture edges are most popular.

For gluing on the machine, a special melt adhesive for PVC edges is used. It is sold in the form of granules, after heating it becomes liquid. The adhesive is applied to the tape either when heated or during the manufacture of the tape.

Edging chipboard

To make the edge for a tabletop or cabinet beautiful and durable, in the best possible way will order edging in production. Usually this is done in the same place where chipboard is bought and ordered.

Approximate prices for application (for 1 running meter along with material):

PVC edge 2 mm - 40 rubles;
PVC edging 0.4 mm - 25 rubles;
edge for chipboard made of melamine - 25 rubles;
in addition, you will have to pay for the processing of curved sections.

The most popular PVC edge in Russia is Rehau, it has wide selection colors, so you can choose a color for any chipboard. The width of the tape is different - from 15 to 45 mm.

To order this service for a store, you must first prepare a diagram of how to glue the PVC edge: in what places to apply it and what thickness. Those places that will not wear out can be covered with 0.4 mm PVC to save money (for example, back and bottom edges). All visible places are treated with PVC 2 mm. Where the joint will be attached to the joint with another part, processing is not needed.
The difference between PVC coating 0.4 and 2 mm
Let's take an example.

On the inner inset shelf, only the front face is processed with a layer of 2 mm.
Top overlay cover - from all sides (rear face 0.4 mm, the rest - 2 mm).
The front of the drawer is processed on all sides with a thickness of 2 mm.

To simplify the calculations, you can use special furniture programs, they create a project automatically. As a result, in order to assemble an average wardrobe, a PVC edge for chipboard will cost 1.5-2 thousand rubles. It will not be very cheap, but it will be of high quality, safe and durable.

Glue the edge yourself

For those who want to save money, there is a melamine edge with glue, which is glued with an iron. This option is quite suitable for repair old furniture- do not carry a few small boards into the workshop. To solve the question of how best to glue the edge to the tabletop, it is better not to be too lazy and turn to production, or still use an overlay profile, because melamine will quickly deteriorate from moisture and abrasion.

For gluing, an old Soviet iron or a building hair dryer is best suited. The thermostat of the iron is set to about 2.5 positions. In addition, you will need a rag, a knife, fine sandpaper and a stand for fixing parts.

You can also use an iron to remove the old edge tape. To do this, it is heated and pry with a spatula or knife.
In this video you can see how to stick a 2 mm edge at home:

To truly achieve good result Still, it's better to order factory edging. The overpayment will not be too big, but the durability will increase significantly. Now on sale you can find almost any color of tape to imitate wood or a plain version.

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