Formula for covering the pond with a film. Pond at the dacha "Film Pond. Tools and materials for installing a pond in the country

Film pond construction

1. Using a flexible hose or thick rope, mark the outline of the pond on the ground. The visual perception of the size and shape of the future pond often differs from the pre-planned and drawn on paper. It is not difficult to calculate the dimensions of the film for the future pond, for this you need to know the length, width and depth of the reservoir. If you are planning a pond with fish, check out the article on keeping fish, because. such ponds have their own characteristics in depth.

The formula for calculating the film for the construction of a pond
film length = pond length + 2*depth + 1 m *
film width = pond width + 2*depth + 1 m *

The most accurate calculation will be obtained if the pit is ready, it can be measured with a rope, first laying it along the longest and deepest part of the reservoir + 1m * , the same for the widest and deepest place + 1m * .

* allowance for subsequent fixing of the edge of the film, if the depth of the reservoir is less than 1 m, you can reduce the allowance to 0.6 m (0.3 m for each edge)

2. The next stage in the construction of a reservoir is its direct digging. At this stage, it is necessary to know the depth of the terraces for planting aquatic plants. Usually the depth of the first one is 30-45 cm (for shallow-water plants), the depth of the second one is 80-100 cm (for deep-water nymphs and water lilies), the width of the terrace should be at least 30 cm. You can make any number of terraces of any size, depending on the configuration and pond size. After their formation, be sure to check the horizontalness of the terrace surface using a board and a level. Next, the rest of the soil is dug to the required depth.
Important! The angle of the walls of the future pond must be at least 45 degrees, otherwise it is necessary to further strengthen them, as shown below in paragraph 6.
Remove roots, stones from the pit and pour a layer of wet sand 10-15 cm onto the bottom and walls.

3. At close proximity ground water, we recommend making drainage under the pond. If you cannot cope with groundwater on your own and drain the pit for laying the film, it is better to turn to professionals. There are no unsolvable problems. But if you put the film in the water and do not make drainage, it will be much more difficult to correct such a mistake in the future, up to a complete alteration of the reservoir.

4. Then cover the pit with a layer of geotextile, which will protect the film from the roots of plants and rodents. For ponds, geotextiles with a density of 300-350 g/m are used. The pond film, made according to the size of the pond, is laid on the prepared bed. At a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the pond, a groove breaks out to the depth of a shovel or deeper, depending on the depth of the reservoir itself. The protruding edge of the film is carefully placed in it and pressed down with stones.
Important! It is possible to fill the groove with earth only after filling the pond with water, when the film completely takes the form of a pond and will fit snugly against the walls and bottom.

5. A second layer of geotextile is laid out on the laid, but not yet fixed, film (if you want to design a pond natural stone) or coconut cloth, or a film with pebbles.
Important! Regardless of how you decide to arrange the reservoir itself, several large stones or fill the bottom with pebbles, in order to avoid swelling of the film in the spring.
Now plants planted in special baskets are placed in the pond, at the same time necessary equipment: skimmer, pump, fountain, lighting. And only after that slowly fill the pond with water so as not to wash off the soil. When you completely fill the pond with water, cut off the excess film and sprinkle the groove with earth.

6. Competent design of the edge of the pond is one of milestones its construction.
Here we give some examples of the device of the edge of the pond:

Edge of a pond with a lawn Edge of a pond with a walkway

Edge of a pond with a slide Pond with a steep slope

Video how to make a swimming pond
(bathing pond)

Foreword

If you are going to make a pond from a film, you have to spend more effort than when creating a decorative pond from old bath.

Required Tools and materials

fittingsConcrete mixerBituminous masticBulgarianRollerBucketWaterNailsNail pullerClayPrimerplaned boardDrillA rockPencilExpanded clayBrushcuvetteShovelMaster OKPolyethylene filmRouletteExtensionLevelCement

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Content

If you are going to make a pond from a film, you have to spend more effort than when creating a decorative pond from an old bathtub. Firstly, you will need to build a pit, and secondly, be sure to make a blind area. But the result is worth it - such a pond is not limited by the area and shape of the container, which means that during its creation and subsequent design, you will be able to show more imagination.

How to build a pond from a film with your own hands: tools and materials

Whatever type of coating is used to create a do-it-yourself film pond, the principle of operation will be the same. Only minor exceptions are possible.

To work, you will need the following tools:

spirit level (building level);
a skein of cord or twine (for marking);
wooden pegs;
garden hose;
shovel.

Before you build a pond from a film with your own hands, purchase the following materials:

film;
geotextiles or concrete (to protect the reservoir from the roots of trees, teeth and claws of animals, sharp stones, etc.);
sand (for the underlying layer);
submersible pump(its capacity will depend on the size of the reservoir);
cleaning filter (preferably a pressure filter with a reverse cleaning system);
decorative stones;
aquatic plants.

How to calculate the amount of film and how to choose the location and shape of the pond

How to calculate the amount of pond film per suburban area? When choosing the size of the waterproofing material, all possible circumstances must be taken into account, so a margin is always required. The calculation of the film coverage can be done as follows: the size of the width and length of the future reservoir must be folded, double the depth and add 600 mm for an allowance - this film will be fixed along the edges of the pond.

Before choosing a place for arranging a film pond, you need to take into account the requirements determined by the standards for the arrangement of all reservoirs: the place should be sufficiently lit, there should be no trees and shrubs in the immediate vicinity, it is better to make the pond closer to the house and the source of water and power points etc.

The film base of the reservoir bowl allows you to achieve a wide variety of sizes and shapes. Therefore, when choosing all these parameters for a do-it-yourself film pond in the country, you need to take into account the usual requirements that apply to garden ponds. And, of course, by own will. But it is better that the pond has rounded lines without sharp corners - such a reservoir will look good, and it is more convenient when laying the film, as well as in the future when cleaning the reservoir, because more debris will always accumulate in sharp corners.

In any case, the reservoir needs to be equipped with terraces - for plants. If you plan to breed fish in a pond, then its depth should be at least 50-60 cm. Some aquatic plants, such as large nymphs, require a landing depth of up to 70 cm.

The photo “Do-it-yourself pond from a film” shows all the options for the shapes and sizes of garden ponds:

When choosing a design style, you can focus on some individual element in the overall composition - this can be original stone, tree, sculpture or alpine slide.

Construction of a pit for a pond for laying a film

Before making a pond from a film, you need to draw a plan of the reservoir, indicating the depth of all the steps of the reservoir (terraces for planting plants) and the placement of the main elements of the arrangement.

All work with the film should be carried out on a warm sunny day, since the coefficient of elasticity of the film increases with increasing temperature, it will stretch better and easily go around all the ledges of the pit.

Before constructing a pit, you need to find out what the level of groundwater is: if they lie quite close to the surface of the earth, then you will need to arrange an inlet valve, otherwise the rising level of groundwater will squeeze out part of the bottom, damaging the reservoir.

Before the construction of the pit with the help of coastal modules fastened with metal brackets, it is necessary to mark the contours of the pond. It is also necessary to mark all planned zones: coastal, shallow and deep - terraces for planting aquatic plants. You can limit yourself to only one terrace.

At the same time, it is important to give correct form the walls of the pit: with chernozem and clay soil, vertical walls can be made, and with sandy - inclined.

It is more convenient to start digging from the upper terrace, then moving on to the second level, and lastly, you need to dig the bottom. When working on terraces, you should constantly check their horizontalness.

The process of digging a pond is quite difficult, especially if the pond is very big size, therefore, if possible, it is better to use a mini-excavator (rent).

If water accumulates at the bottom of the pit during digging, it will be necessary to remove the latter using a pump specially adapted for pumping water with impurities and solids. For pumped water, you can dig an auxiliary hole nearby.

With a small reservoir, such problems are unlikely to arise, but in any case, when digging a pit, a lot of land will be taken out, which will have to be removed somewhere. This needs to be thought about in advance. You can take it outside the cottage or scatter it throughout the site, raising the level, or use the earth as an embankment under alpine slide.

How to lay the film and fill the pond with water

When the pit is dug, you need to pay attention to the condition of the bottom, and if there are sharp stones or tree roots, then it is better to remove them. Before laying the film for the pond, it is necessary to pour a bedding of sand 5-10 cm thick on the bottom and on the terraces. Next, geotextiles are lined - special synthetic nonwoven fabric. Instead of geotextiles, you can use cement screed 3-5 cm thick and leave it for 1 week until full setting. Such waterproofing will keep sand cushion from erosion by groundwater and protect the reservoir from various mechanical damage.

Next, you need to line the bed of the reservoir with a film, leaving it in a free position, with folds, in order to avoid excessive tension when filling the reservoir with water. When laying the film on the bottom of the pond, it is better to leave large folds than many small ones.

A shock-absorbing material should be placed on top of the film - cobblestones and large pebbles to press the film to the base and fix it in the right places. Leave a margin of film around the edges.

Now you should connect the garden hose to the water source and supply it in the center of the film laid over the pit. The jet should be spray - this will help reduce the chlorine content in the water. The film will gradually smooth out, taking the shape of the structure.

In the process of filling the pond with water, you need to monitor the subsidence of the film, if necessary, moving the stones holding it.

After the pond is completely filled with water, you should leave it for a day, and then cut off the excess film, leaving a margin of 25-30 cm along its edges, which will be laid in the blind area.

Watch the DIY Film Pond video to better understand how this work is done:

Do-it-yourself film pond in the country: blind area and decoration

Along the edge of the pond, you will need to make a ditch at least 60 cm wide and at least 30 cm deep. Pour sand into the bottom of the ditch, lay the edge of the geotextile and the edges of the film, tucking them up. Then the recess should be filled thin layer crushed stone and strengthen the edging of the pond with stones, fixing them together with concrete.

Here you can also use a flooring that resembles a stone in color, which must be firmly fixed so that a person, standing on the edge of the reservoir, does not slide to the bottom along with sand and film.

Such strengthening is also done in order to prevent the shedding of earth from the coastal zone into the pond bowl. To strengthen the blind area, you can still use plastic pipes, nailing them to pegs that are firmly set along coastline.

Now you need to install a submersible pump at the bottom of the pond, stretch the hose to the water source and connect it to the water filter. Hoses and pump cable can be hidden in foil folds.

After installing the pump, you need to connect it, check the operation.

At the design stage, you can plant pond plants using pots and baskets. Since the reservoir is equipped with a pump with a filter, real goldfish can be launched here.

If desired, you can install lamps to illuminate the pond by placing the wires in a moisture-proof box along the coastline, laying it on linoleum and filling it with sand on top.

The coastal zone can be decorated with gravel, pebbles, planted coastal plants, or you can build an alpine hill, especially since in this way it will be possible to use the earth from the pit.

Alpine slide is decorated with stones, various sun-loving flowers and plants.

In the summer heat in the country, you really want coolness, and it is best to get this coolness from your own reservoir. not large sizes. I want to tell the readers of the site garden paths how to build a pond from a film with your own hands, and in this article I will touch on the issue of choosing a film.

Because, firstly, different films have different characteristics, and you need to know which specific film to use, how to calculate the size of the material, and so on.

Film selection

The most accessible of the films is polyethylene. You can take it with a stabilizer ultraviolet light so that it is less destroyed by the sun. Thickness polyethylene film must be at least 1 mm. The pond from it is short-lived, will last from 3 to 5 years.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film remains the most popular material for constructing garden ponds. Branded products usually do not contain harmful substances. The thickness of this film can be from 0.6 to 1 mm, depending on the depth of the future reservoir, and it will last from 10 to 15 years, or even more. Most often, film with a width of 2, 4, 6 and 8 m and a length of 20 m or more is sold in rolls. It is resistant to low temperatures and solar radiation.

A relatively new product on the market can be considered a rubber-rubber film (butyl rubber, or EPDM membrane) made of ethylene-vinyl acetate, as well as ethylene-propylene-diene thermopolymer. It is produced in rolls with a width of 3, 4, 6, 12 and 15 m with an average length of 30 m. Unfortunately, it is also the most expensive of all.

So, when buying a film, you must be sure that it is absolutely waterproof, impervious to ground salts, resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation, has a thickness of about 0.8 mm, retains its qualities at a temperature of minus 20 degrees, does not contain toxic plasticizers .

Calculation of the required amount of film

For this you need to know maximum length, width and depth of the future pond. Then the length of the film (I) will be equal to the sum of the length of the pond (L), two depths of the pond (h) and two ledges (d) along the edges of the reservoir (an average of 30 cm is taken for ledges on each side): I = L + 2xh + 2xd.

The width of the film (t) is equal to the sum of the width of the pond (M), two depths of the pond (h) and two protrusions (d) along the edges of the reservoir: m = M + 2xh + 2xd.

For example: with a pond length of 4 m, a width of 2.5 m, a depth of 1.8 m, the width of the film is 4.9 m, and the length is -6.4 m, that is, 6.4 × 4.9 m. The reservoir will be of medium size , with a volume of about 9 thousand liters.

building

Now that we've counted right amount films for the future, you need to prepare a hole, the so-called "bed", where this film will fit. And here's how it's done.

The arrangement of a bed for a reservoir begins with planning, choosing a place in the garden

How more garden, the more opportunities to create a reservoir. A film pond with a water surface area of 6 sq. m should be considered as an absolute minimum, but it is better to have a reservoir with an area of 8 to 10 square meters. m. Once again I emphasize that this applies only to film ponds, and does not apply to small forms or large pools, plastic baths.

After a place has been chosen, its size and shape have been determined, mark the contours of the reservoir on the ground with a flexible hose or thick rope and pegs. Make the necessary adjustments until you are completely satisfied with the shape and size of the future pond.

A film pond should be as large as possible, not only from an aesthetic point of view, it is important to maintain biological balance in it, which occurs on average 2 years after its construction. Minimum depth the deepest zone of the pond should be 80 cm.

Now you can remove the soil from the pit

Dig a stepped hole and check the level of the terrace surface with a level, add or remove excess soil in the right places. will be required to place containers with plants on them, or in order to make it convenient to enter the water when swimming. Remove all large roots, stones, construction debris from the pit, level the bottom and edges well and start laying sand.

After compacting the sand, before spreading the film, it is recommended to line the bottom with non-woven synthetic material(geotextile). You can use old blankets and other improvised means. This cover will protect the film from damage. Then the bed of the future reservoir is covered with a film.

One helpful advice: distribute it in advance sunny place- becomes much softer and more elastic.

Try not to damage it when laying. You will need an assistant, as it is not so easy. The edges of the film should protrude 30-50 cm beyond the perimeter of the reservoir. Now you can gradually fill the bed with water, the pressure of which will begin to press the film into sand base, and the edges of the film will begin to shrink.

Decorating the pond with plants

Nymphaeums are planted first in a new pond, then pebbles or gravel are poured, starting from the very deep place and gradually moving towards the shores. At the same time, the pond continues to be filled with water, the air from under the film comes out. At the corners, lay the film in neat small folds, stretch and press its edges to the ground with stones, cut them, leaving 15 centimeters.

It will be better if you immediately make a "stone castle". A trench up to 20 cm deep is dug along the perimeter of the reservoir. The edges of the film are lowered into it and covered with coarse gravel.

The simplest and least time-consuming method is to line the hollow with polyethylene film, the thickness of which should be at least 0.5 mm. Suitable for this, for example, roofing film(thickness 5-10 mm) and the so-called horticultural film (polyethylene), which is transparent. In order not to damage the film, the lower soil must be cleaned of stones and sharp objects. A layer of sand 5 cm thick is applied to the cleaned soil. A film is laid on this layer and its edges are soldered. For soldering, you can use an iron. To prevent the iron from sticking to the film during soldering, a piece of newspaper or transparent paper is placed under it. The required soldering temperature must be determined in advance by testing. A layer of excavated sand up to 10 cm thick is distributed on the soldered film. It will protect the film from damaging effects ultraviolet rays and mechanical damage. The bottom of the basin, made in the form of steps, will prevent the poured material from slipping. Humus should not be used, because. it promotes algae growth, we recommend clean sand.

roofing pond

The material used is roofing roofing paper, as well as non-sanded insulating cardboard and glass tiles with klebe mass (do not use roof paint). Excavation are carried out in the same order as when laying a pond with plastic wrap.

Line the bottom with roofing paper in two layers. First layer: lay out the entire hollow, join the roofing strips with an overlap of 15-20 cm, then glue the entire area of the joint with an overlap. Second layer: lay the strips across the first layer, glue each strip to the first layer. Lubricate the overlap joints again with glue.

clay pond

Clay or clay soil is used as the material. You can buy at the brick factory and unfired, pre-dried brick (the so-called formling, formal brick). The entire surface of the basin is lined in one, or better in two layers of dry clay, clay soil or this brick and tightly tamped. After filling the basin with water, the clay immediately swells and thus becomes completely impermeable. In this case, please do not breed reeds and calamus, as their roots penetrate through the clay bottom.

concrete pond

Cement, coarse gravel and, to save concrete, stone or brick are used. When built properly, a concrete pond will be the most durable, but it is relatively expensive and requires manual labor.

A concrete pond heats up very slowly, this must be taken into account when selecting plants.

Pond decoration

The more diverse you decorate the edges of the pond, the richer the species that make up its living community will be. The habitat of many animals will be heaps of stone, branches, branches or rotten pieces of wood. Dragonflies, snails will come here very soon. There will be fewer mosquito larvae - they will be destroyed by their own natural enemies.

Goldfish and others aquarium fish will only interfere with the natural balance in your pond and therefore, for the benefit of local small fish, it is better to leave them in the aquarium.

During the construction of the pond, you can plan the water inflow from the gutter. good lighting and favorable conditions for the nutrient medium contribute to the reproduction of plants. To prevent your pond from silting up and shallowing, the vegetation must be removed. Water lily leaves should cover the surface of the water by no more than one third. Aquatic plants provide animals with food and shelter, but they must be partially removed during mass germination.

Actually marsh plants are best planted in a marsh basin separated from the pond, which should be equipped with the same material as the pond. In this case, it is recommended to plant local aquatic plants. Marsh calla, marsh marigold, calamus, cutting cottongrass, water iris (iris), fat man and arrowhead are sold in horticultural enterprises. To keep the swamp pool from drying out, it must be connected to a pond. AT concrete version the pond is best done with a connecting pipe. And a rigid PVC pipe can be soldered to the bottom of the plastic film pond. The swamp pool should be 30-40 cm deep and filled with a greasy earthen mixture.

well maintained garden, small pond(or not, let it be big), gravel paths, flowers, benches ... Now we are not talking about the estate of Count N. eighteen hundred of some year, but about a completely modern landscape of an ordinary summer cottage owner. Ponds are no longer something unattainable, they are available to anyone who has an idea of what a pond film is. Butyl rubber, the price of which starts from some 400 rubles, can serve not only the owner of the cottage, but also his children and grandchildren. PVC will not last so long - with careful operation - up to 15 years, but during this time it will justify its cost and the master's hopes placed on it.