How to repair the floors in the apartment with your own hands. Repair of the floor in the apartment: cement screed, plank floors. Final finishing step

The flooring in the apartment, like other finishes, wears out over time, loses its attractive appearance. All owners of their own homes sooner or later face the need to replace the old flooring. This work requires special knowledge, construction skills. Repair of the floor in the apartment can be entrusted to professionals, but even in this case, you need to understand all the intricacies of installing a new flooring.

Before proceeding with the phased replacement of the flooring, you need to free up space, remove all furniture. If repairs are carried out in a separate room, and not in the entire apartment, the rest of the premises should be protected from the dust of construction debris. This can be done with plastic curtains or a damp cloth. The gap under the door is covered for the duration of the repair with a wet rag rolled up with a roller.

To carefully remove the old flooring in the apartment, you need:

Remove plinth. This is done carefully so as not to damage the walls. If the plinth will be reused in the apartment, it is advisable to prevent its deformation. Elements are removed easily if they were fixed with brackets or self-tapping screws;
Remove the old floor. roll material(carpet, linoleum, etc.) is cut, divided into separate strips, then rolled into rolls. If the flooring was planted on a special glue, it will take more time and effort to dismantle the floor in the apartment. Parquet must be removed with separate boards. The tile is removed using a perforator equipped with a chisel-shaped nozzle.

Dismantling the wooden floor

The flooring, consisting of individual elements, does not have to be completely changed. Sometimes it is enough to repair individual sections. However, it is better not to do such floor repairs in the kitchen. The old floor continues to deteriorate and will soon need to be replaced again.

Screed alignment

Sometimes the base decorative coating appears to be significantly damaged. Deformations can occur due to shrinkage of the building or non-compliance with construction technology. In this case, the apartment needs to be dismantled. concrete screed, which has become insufficiently even, and the subsequent pouring of a new base. The screed should be made with a thickness of 3 cm at the highest point of the surface.

Removing the top layer of concrete

Filling the screed in the apartment is done like this:

Examine the base, determine the highest place on the surface using a level. The height of the future screed depends on this point;
Mark lines, install beacons along which concrete will be poured. Professionals can install the screed, evaluating its evenness by eye. If you are doing repairs yourself, it is better to use beacon profiles;
Take three parts of washed sand and one part of M400 cement. Mix the solution right in the apartment. The ratio of components ensures the creation of a strong screed suitable for laying any finishing flooring. Another option is to use a ready-made dry mix for repairing the base, which is done by adding water, according to the manufacturer's instructions. The packaging also indicates the optimal consumption per m 2;
Spill cement mixture between lighthouse profiles, level the surface with a rule;
Check the screed after initial curing. Correct the irregularities.

Pouring concrete over beacons

The final hardening of the screed takes a period of one to one and a half months. The rate of adhesion of the solution depends on the level of humidity, temperature in the room where the repair is being carried out. Then you can start laying the finish coating on the floor.

Which floor is better for an apartment

The modern market is replete with finishing materials designed for floor repair. Each buyer can choose the flooring according to his pocket and taste. The manufacturer always strives to take into account the wishes of the consumer. Each group finishing materials for repairing the floor in the apartment includes cladding from different price categories.

Ceramic tile floor

Not every building material is suitable for repair in any room of the apartment. When choosing flooring, it is important to take into account the features of the room. For example, ceramic tile– excellent coverage with interesting design decoration, durable, reliable. However, tiles are not used for renovations in the bedroom and living room. Ceramic is suitable for flooring in places with high humidity- in the kitchen, in the bathroom, in the hallway.

Exist universal materials used for repairs in any room of the apartment - linoleum, laminate.

Everything is clear with the first, but what about the second? Laminate is afraid of water. However, progress does not stand still. There are water-repellent types of laminate on the market. Such floorboards are not available to everyone due to the high cost.

laminate flooring

The choice of material for the floor in the apartment must be approached consciously, take into account specifications cladding, features of the room. There are many types of flooring on the market, which allows you to quickly repair the floor in the apartment with your own hands in stages. It is important to understand the range, to determine the appropriate option.

Installation steps

To get a reliable floor with a long service life, you need to follow the installation technology. All options for repairing floors in an apartment include several stages. The first is the preparation of the base for the finishing flooring. Upper layer fits on concrete plates, coupler or construction from log. A plywood sheet mounted between the base and the cladding creates additional heat and sound insulation. The second stage of repair is laying the material. This is followed by a treatment that increases the life of the floor.

Wooden

Painting a wooden floor

Rotten boards, creaking and wobbly floorboards indicate the need to change the flooring. Repair wooden floors in the apartment includes the following stages:

Dismantling boards, lag. Rotten wood is removed, old nails are thrown out immediately, because self-tapping screws will be required in the future;
Breaking horizontal lines. It is necessary to mark the highest point on the base of the floor, then step back up to the thickness of the log, put a mark. Then comes the measurement of the distance from this point to the horizontal line. Such marks are applied in the corners, interconnected;
Processing logs, boards. The material is applied special agent, protecting wood from mold, pests. Then you need to let the wood dry well;
Lag fastening. The guides are nailed to the wall with dowels 10 by 100 mm along a horizontal line drawn along the perimeter. In places where the logs rise above the base, supports are needed every 50 cm. This is followed by the installation of guides on the main area;
Board fastening. Self-tapping screws are required to repair the floor. For boards with a thickness of 35 mm, fasteners with a length of 55-60 mm are suitable. A slight gap should be left between the floorboards to avoid creaking in the future;
Installation of plywood sheet or chipboard. Laying wood sheets levels the floor in the apartment. Plywood is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws;
Laying the final cover. The installation of the top layer of the flooring takes place in accordance with the characteristics of the selected material.

Laminate

Laying laminate

Overhaul of the floor in the apartment is often done with the use of laminate. Installation of the coating includes the following steps:

Foundation preparation. The laminate is laid on rough coating from different materials(concrete, chipboard, fiberboard, wood, ceramics, etc.);
Creation of sound and vapor insulation. A substrate is laid under the laminate, which additionally smooths out small irregularities;
Laminate installation. The coating is mounted in a "floating" way, without the use of additional fasteners. The panels are interlocked with each other by the principle of a lock or with the help of glue.

Linoleum

Linoleum flooring

The coating is widely used for finishing the floor in the apartment. The flooring process includes the following steps:

Subfloor preparation. The coating is laid on a perfectly flat base. Differences in height are smoothed out with a screed or with the help of a wood sheet;
Measurements and cutting of linoleum. If there is a pattern on the coating, it is required to take it into account when cutting the material. The canvas is rolled out on the prepared surface, pressed down with a heavy load, left in the apartment for two days for leveling;
Laying and fastening. Linoleum is fixed differently depending on the size of the room. The flooring is carried out dry, without glue, if the linoleum is fixed with a plinth from all sides. In spacious rooms, the material is laid on the adhesive mixture.

carpet

Laying carpet with glue

Step-by-step installation of soft floor covering in many ways similar to linoleum flooring in an apartment. To lay carpet, you need:

Check the condition of the rough surface. There should be no gaps between the walls and the floor. The evenness of the screed is determined using a level. The surface must be cleaned, dried, coated with a primer;
Cut out the material. To properly cut the carpet, you must first make a drawing, taking into account all the protrusions, openings of the room. Then you need to cut the canvas, adding 5-7 cm on each side;
Lay the underlay. A special cloth increases the service life of the coating, insulates, softens the floor, smooths out the unevenness of the base. Carpet with backing should be allowed to rest in the apartment;
Fix the cover. An adhesive is applied to the base using a notched trowel, which fixes the substrate. After that, it takes time for the canvas to dry. Then the carpet itself is attached.

Ceramic tile floor

Repairing a bathroom floor often involves replacing ceramic tiles. Laying material in the apartment includes the following stages:

Foundation preparation. Ceramics is laid on a solid, even floor;
Material preparation. Tiles are soaked in water for 10-20 minutes or processed from the wrong side with a brush;
Laying. But the floor is applied with glue using a notched trowel. Tiles are laid horizontally;
Seam grouting. This step follows after the glue has completely dried. The composition is applied to the floor rubber spatula, excess is removed with a damp sponge.

Price

My home is my castle! Probably every citizen of our country knows this phrase. The problem of providing separate housing for each citizen, first Soviet Union, and now - Russia, stood and stands quite sharply. Different approaches solve problems in different ways, but do not yet eliminate the problem itself.

At one time, thanks to the planned economy and the desire of the authorities to resettle communal apartments, they led to the adoption of special programs, large-scale construction projects, five and nine-story (and a little later - sixteen-story) houses were erected. A lot of so-called "Khrushchevs" were built all over the country - small, rather cramped, of the same type, but, most importantly, separate apartments!

Most of these houses were built in the middle of the last century. Of course, after more than 50 years, the time has come for a massive overhaul of housing. One of the main issues without which it is impossible to conduct a quality modern renovation gender and create normal conditions for life, is the replacement flooring.

Floor conversion

The simple construction of the floors in most apartments of that time consisted of timber flooring, slab lathing and floorboard laying, as a rule - 30 or 40 mm thick. Of course, at present, such technologies are considered hopelessly outdated, you will not find them in any modern apartment. The floor is the basis of any room, which is subject to increased requirements. The floor surface must be level and firm. A load that gradually acts on the floor must not damage it. There should be no deformation. The floor covering must be:

quality,
durable
reliable,
durable,
resistant to mechanical stress.

The base of the floor in the apartment can be wooden or concrete. A floor covering is laid on top of this base. It could be:

linoleum,
carpet,
parquet,
laminate,
other types.

Not always the floor covering can be qualitatively laid on the subfloor. A lot of owners, especially in old apartments, are faced with the need to replace the subfloor. In order for the new coating to lie tightly on the surface, ensure reliability and quality, it is necessary to carry out work to check and strengthen the base. The main types of work to repair the base of a wooden floor can be conditionally divided into three groups:

demolition of the old floor
surface leveling,
laying flooring.

Choosing the right repair option

Depending on the condition of the wooden floor, a decision is made on the choice of how to restore it. If the surface is sufficiently well preserved, it may be sufficient to scrape and carefully sand the surface. After that, tinting is carried out, and the surface is varnished in several layers.

If this method does not help to eliminate the creaking of the floorboards, there is a reeling of the boards and their unstable position, a decision is made to re-lay the wooden floor. This is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure. It is possible that in the process of opening the old wooden floor, it will be found that the logs are also damaged and need to be replaced. Dismantling the old floor, installing additional logs, flooring, leveling and fitting boards, creating a single flat surface is a costly process both in terms of time and finances.

Floor overhaul

More economical, reliable, faster and effective method forming a new floor - making a screed from cement-sand mortar. The basis of Khrushchev-type houses is reinforced concrete slabs standard sizes. They are also the basis of the floors in the apartments and are ideally suited for the proportion that a screed is made on top. The procedure for floor repair is as follows:

Dismantling of the old floor.
Cleaning the surface from dust and debris.
Sealing cracks and chips, cracks on the surface.
Checking the level and determining the highest point of the surface.
Treatment of the prepared area with a special primer, which will ensure a tighter fit of the solution to the base.
Laying screed from cement-sand mortar.

After the floor is dry, you can begin to work on laying the main floor covering.

Self-leveling floor - the latest technique

The use of technology arrangement - worthy alternative for cement-sand screed. The process is based on the use of special self-leveling compounds. Such surfaces are quite easily and quickly made, dry and gain the necessary margin of safety. In just 1-2 days, work on laying the main floor covering is allowed.

The main stages of work on the manufacture of self-leveling floor are as follows:

demolition of the old floor
removal of dust and dirt,
sealing cracks and seams,
thorough priming of the prepared area of the self-leveling floor, which is carried out to increase adhesion,
preparation of the mixture for use and pouring in small portions (in this case, alignment should be carried out using a special spiked roller or large spatula);
after completion of work, reaching a predetermined level and drying of the surface, it is applied to the floor special composition- fixer. It will not only strengthen the floor surface, but also prevent the formation of cement dust, which is harmful to health.

The advantageous advantage of self-leveling floors lies in the fact that such work can be carried out according to different types foundations, both on concrete and on wood, and laying the flooring is allowed the very next day.

There is another alternative way to restore the integrity of the wooden floor to all the options described above. It's about using special solution based on glue and sawdust for floor repair. The technology of work here is quite simple and quite effective. The floor surface is prepared for pouring. With the help of thin rails, a crate is made on the floor and the rails are leveled.

Next, a mixture of glue and sawdust is prepared in certain portions. The solution should be in the state of thick sour cream, be thoroughly mixed and, of course, prepared in compliance with the proportions indicated in the instructions for use. After the surface has dried, an additional layer of leveling material is laid on it, for example, plywood sheets. Laying such a coating can be carried out the very next day after applying the adhesive solution.

Wooden floors are considered to be sufficiently durable and reliable coating. However, due to its hygroscopicity, wood is exposed to moisture. In summer, at elevated temperatures and humidity, it swells. And it dries up in winter. This leads to the formation of cracks between the floorboards. Over time, boards rot. Due to the furniture, dents and scratches form on the surface of the wooden floor. The paint is peeling off. Spilled chemicals leave a trail. Therefore, the coating has to be periodically restored. And what can we say about old houses in which the repair of wooden floors has not been carried out for a long time. How to start this process and what is needed for this? Here are the first two questions that confront a person who decides to renovate a wooden floor.

Where to start repairing a wood floor?

If you are repairing a wooden floor with your own hands, do not rush to get to work right away. Perhaps, in addition to those areas with damage that are clearly visible, there are hidden defects. They need to be found and eliminated. Otherwise, over time, repairs will have to be carried out again. Therefore, the first step is to conduct a comprehensive inspection of the flooring and its components. After a thorough inspection, you can decide whether the floors can be repaired or if they need to be completely replaced.

To find rotten boards, you need to walk with a hammer all over the floor. This is the only way to find a hidden defect. A dull sound indicates the presence of rot. Rusty nails in the floorboards will tell about the same. The amount of work depends on the size of the damage. The easiest way to replace the top floorboards. Subfloor boards are more difficult to replace, but not as hard as logs. To repair rotten logs, you will need to disassemble the floor above them and cut out a defective piece. Then replace it with a new one.

It is much more difficult to repair the floor in wooden house. Here, in addition to a thorough check of the upper floorboards, the subfloor and the log, you will have to inspect the beams and embedded crowns. It is necessary to inspect from all sides: from the inside, outside, from the underground. Inspection must be carried out in good light, so as not to miss the beginning of rot. When checking underground, it is advisable to use a powerful flashlight.

Sometimes small defects in embedded beams are not visible "by eye". To find them, use an awl or a knitting needle with a sharp end. With piercing movements they pass the entire beam, checking for the presence of rotten areas. In this case, punctures are made as often as possible. Having found a damaged beam, it is replaced with a new one. Sometimes, in order to replace a beam in a wooden house, you have to raise the building with a jack.

Analysis of special situations

Old apartment buildings still have wooden floors. Their device is slightly different from the floors in private homes. If in a private building the logs are laid on the ground, then in the apartment the laying is done on concrete. Therefore, the repair of a wooden floor in an apartment is different from the repair in a private house. After removing the lag for replacement, it is necessary to clean and check concrete base for cracks.

If carried out complete replacement floor, after dismantling and cleaning must be performed. Can be applied. After that, the base is primed and laid waterproofing material. Place heat on top soundproof material and then floor boards.

Floorboard replacement

Consider a situation where only one or a few floorboards need to be replaced. Having found the damaged area of the floor, remove the rotten floorboard. Cut to size new board. Having treated it with an antiseptic, without affecting the ends, we put it in place of the old fragment.

Advice! It is impossible to treat the ends of the board with an antiseptic. Otherwise, after a while the board will begin to rot.

Using self-tapping screws, we fix the board in place of the old one, screwing it to the lags. This is how every rotten floorboard is replaced. If found on the board small plot rot, you can not change the entire floorboard. It is enough to cut out only the damaged area. Using it as a template, cut a replacement out of new wood. Fasten it to the lags using self-tapping screws. In this case, the ends of the new section should reach the middle of the lag.

Sealing gaps between floorboards

Before proceeding, clean the coating. take away extra furniture so that she doesn't get in the way. For more thorough cleaning crevices, use a stiff-bristled brush. In order not to miss anything after the inspection, mark all areas requiring repair. Prepare the composition for work. There are special putties for wood. But you can make the composition yourself. If you mix PVA glue with sawdust to the density of sour cream, you get an excellent putty.

After carefully treating all the cracks, leave them to dry completely. Then clean with sandpaper. This repair method is suitable for small cracks. Wide and deep cracks are eliminated differently - they are prepared for them wooden blocks. In length, they should correspond to the length of the slot, and in diameter they should look like a cone.

Having planted on glue with sawdust, the workpiece is driven into the slot with a sharp edge down. Excess is removed with a planer and polished. At the end of the repair, the wooden floor is varnished or painted.

Sealing a wide gap with a wooden blank

Sometimes repairing a floor in a private house comes down to eliminating minor defects, such as. As time passes, any wooden coating begins to creak. The main reason for the squeak is loose fastening. If the house has basement the cause of unpleasant sounds can be easily eliminated. To find out which floorboards will hold together, find a partner. While he walks on the floor, you will have to determine where the defect is.

Eliminate creaking floorboards by hammering nails

Having calculated the creaking floorboard, drive a wooden wedge into the gap between the beam and this board. Do not overdo it so that the board does not rise above the base. If it is impossible to get into the underground, repairs are made from above. Drill holes in the creaking floorboards above the beams. Secure the screws by driving them into the beams at a slight angle, changing the direction of the angle. You can fix the board with nails.

Unsightly update

It happens that the flooring does not have the above problems. The only drawback comes down to its unsightly appearance. Or after eliminating the remaining defects, it is necessary to bring the base into proper form. Any repair of old wooden floors ends with it or varnishing. But before doing this, you need to prepare the foundation. old paint that does not hold, remove with a spatula. Wash the floor with detergent to degrease the surface.

If you are already repairing old floors according to the rules, it is advisable to sand the old coating. This will help smooth out the inconspicuous bumps and depressions. The more carefully you prepare the surface, the smoother the paint will lie. The cleaned and dried floor is primed with drying oil. After that, you need to let the floor dry and only then apply a coat of paint. Do not try to immediately paint over everything with a thick layer of paint. It is better to apply two or three layers carefully shading and allowing each to dry.

At proper care a wooden floor will last for decades. Wood does not like moisture, so try not to flood the floors with water when cleaning. To prevent furniture legs from scratching the surface, stick protective caps on them. Don't let your pets scratch floors with their claws or use the toilet in the wrong place. Such measures will help delay the next floor repair for a long time.

It can be called one of the most time-consuming operations in the entire process of carrying out overhaul. Probably, now you are trying to imagine the scale and cost of this enterprise and are already doubting the need to repair your floors. But should you limit yourself to just changing the decorative floor covering on them: after all, time will still take its toll, and, sooner or later, the moment will come when to delay repair work will no longer be possible. So why not do it with us now?!

Floor repair

In order to properly plan all work and competently perform floor repairs in own apartment we suggest you stick to the following plan:

1. We remove the old floor covering (including the plinth).

2. We carry out an audit of the base (we examine the subfloor and decide whether it needs repair, whether it requires a complete replacement or is in quite good condition).

3. Decide on the scope of work. We decide what we will do, calculate the square and select materials.

4. We carry out repairs to the base surface (if it was planned).

5. We are working on the floor finish.
Photos increase, click!

Cement strainer

No new floor covering should be placed on top of an old, dead foundation. Overhaul of the floor in the apartment can be destroyed by the mere absence of a good base. Therefore, we will deal with a cement screed - unusually strong and reliable protection
(including from flooding neighbors from below).

We will need the following materials:

cement (we bought it for 250 rubles per bag of 50 kg);
sand or screenings for screed (they took 900 rubles per cubic meter);
sand, screenings, crushed stone, fine enough for a pillow (the latter cost us 420 rubles per cubic meter);
perforated beacon profiles (20 rubles per 1 pc.).

Filling the screed will require us to use the following tools:

concrete mixer or bucket for mixing the solution;
a shovel or chopper for mixing the solution in the tub;
harsh or silk thread for lighthouses;
water level (we take either tubular or laser);
ordinary level;
rule;
Master OK;
poluter;
several buckets.

Plank floors

Another rough basis for flooring can be a plank floor. We will lay it directly on the screed, but you can install this option directly on a pillow of sand, fine gravel or screenings. At high quality overhaul of the floor in your apartment as the main covering may also involve a plank floor.

We buy the following materials:

board (we took cheap option- pine grade A for 260 rubles. behind running meter; larch or oak will be much better, but also more expensive);
rail (we were lucky, because we found 12 rubles per piece);
timber (purchased at 7500 rubles per cubic meter);
nails (110 rubles were paid for 1 kg);
plinth (460 rubles per 1 m).

In the process of assembling a wooden floor, you can not do without such tools:

hammer,
hacksaws,
ax
plane,
nail puller
level,
carpenter's square 90°,
circular saw,
scraper or grinder,
roulette,
pencil.

Attention! Any wooden floor will need ventilation - we do it in the corners of the room, simply by drilling holes in the floor (we took two opposite corners, you can do it in all four).

Finish flooring

Usually floor coverings are divided into three groups:

soft (from carpet and linoleum to cork floors and crumb rubber tiles);
solid wood (from floors made of solid wood to parquet and laminate);
solid stone (from ceramic tiles to tiles made of natural look stone or artificial).

If you are planning to renovate the floor in your new apartment in the most environmentally friendly way, choose wooden floors. In our opinion, they are the most "cozy" and comfortable. This flooring option never loses popularity and can be used in any living room (except for a bathroom, bathroom, kitchen and hallway). For the first three rooms, ceramic tiles are perfect - the best coating for rooms with high humidity and degree of pollution.

If you need to save a little money, then you can stop at the laminate - a coating made from a wood-polymer composite that imitates natural materials with amazing accuracy.

Linoleum can boast of falling into one of the lowest price categories - a material that is easiest to lay with your own hands.

Carpet - the coating is also inexpensive, beautiful at the beginning of operation, but extremely impractical. Soon you will see that his pile is crumpled, frayed and lost his original color. When you determine the repair of the floor in your apartment and look at the photo of options with carpet, remember also about the accumulation of dust in it, which does not have a very positive effect on the health of residents.

The choice of flooring is your personal right, based on your own tastes, the style of each room and the functionality of the materials. We succeeded. We hope it works for you too!

Video footage:

Video of floor repair, from start to finish, look at the alignment.

With the exception of a small percentage of secondary stock buildings with wooden floors, in high-rise buildings slabs are used. On the logs, either a floor covering made of tongue-and-groove boards or a subfloor made of edged board, OSB, GVL, TsSP, plywood or chipboard for other facings (parquet, linoleum, pvc tile, cork, tile, carpet and other materials).

Therefore, the repair of a wooden floor in Khrushchev can be done in a day (replacing the tongue) or delayed for several weeks (laying sound insulation, insulation, lag and subfloor under the parquet).

Because of complex design and numerous layers of the pie, the repair of a wooden floor in an apartment is distinguished by its variety, labor intensity and budget. When lost appearance the surface of the grooved board is cleaned of the existing layer of paintwork materials, painted in several layers to give the necessary aesthetics of perception.

In all other cases, partial or complete disassembly of the coating or subfloor becomes inevitable. To simplify the search for reasons for the decrease operational properties structures, layer-by-layer dismantling is usually practiced:

Any structural element (floorboard, log or self-tapping screw) can become the cause of a creak when the mutual fixation with another part of the floor is weakened. Therefore, to eliminate the squeak, apply different methods– from filling the gaps in the floorboards with talcum powder to replacing the log or screwing all the boards to the logs at an angle of 45 - 60 degrees in new places.

The causes of creaking are the wear of the elements of the wooden floor.

Advice! During the initial laying of a tongue-and-groove board as a floor covering, only the first, every fourth and last rows of material are rigidly attached to the joists. After drying, after 3-12 months, the floorboards are re-tightened with jacks, clamps or other tools. This operation is not a floor repair, it refers to the maintenance of the coating.

Repair Technology

During operation multilayer construction repair of wooden floors in an apartment becomes necessary when defects are detected by ear and visually obvious, which sharply reduce the comfort of living. In other words, they walk on the flooring until they get tired of the creak, or the user's leg fails.

A preventive revision is not economically viable, since for this it is necessary to take out all the furniture, dismantle the plinth, all or most of the floorboards. Repair is carried out as the structure is dismantled, depending on its complexity, special technologies are used:

Important! After the revision of the floorboards, boards unsuitable for further use are rejected. Or defective areas are cut out of them (rot, fungus, mold, warping, flying through knots).

Removing a squeak

AT Soviet times the exploitation of wooden floors in Khrushchev and Brezhnevka was practiced. The logs were laid on glassine, leveled with wooden wedges. The tongue-and-groove board was pulled together once - during the finishing of the rooms, users were usually not warned that the floorboards needed to be pulled together after drying again.

The reason for the creak is the weakening of the mutual fixation of two or more structural elements. Under load from the traffic of residents, they bend, make characteristic sounds.

To eliminate the squeak, the following algorithm of actions is usually used:

identifying a creaking area by ear, outlining it with chalk;
checking the presence of a fastener (nail or self-tapping screw);

existing nails can be driven into the wood with a punch;
with a self-tapping screw with a full thread, the floorboard is fixed in any convenient position relative to the log bar;
self-tapping screw with an incomplete thread, you can firmly press two wooden element floors to each other, including if the hole in the floorboard has expanded over time;
a polymer wedge is driven under the log hanging above the floor slab;
upon detection of rotten, turned into dust sections of lumber, they are cut out, the timber / board is built up with new pieces treated with an antiseptic.

Boards in rows located far from the walls are very difficult to dismantle without destroying the interlock. Therefore, their spatial geometry and mutual arrangement relative to the floorboards in adjacent rows, they are regulated by longitudinal wedges:

the wedge is cut from long wood chips;
driven between rows of floorboards;
prevents sagging, eliminates creaking;
sanded flush with the surface of the floorboards.

After that, local staining of the defective area is performed or the floors are completely repainted.

Replacing the grooved board

In dry rooms, a complete replacement of the floor covering is usually carried out, since the wear of the boards is the same here. In rooms with high humidity and an abundance of cold water, sewage, hot water communications, the restoration of individual areas affected by mold, fungus or rot due to pipeline leaks is more often used. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

logs and the condition of the screed should be carefully examined;
if the condition of these structural elements is unsatisfactory, the overhaul of the coating will cost less, since the operational life of the renovated area will be much higher than that of the existing floorboards, which will also soon have to be changed;
the grooved board is laid according to the standard technology (fastening to the logs of each 4 rows), after 4 - 12 months, the flooring must be pulled together again with fixation to the logs of each row of boards;
the plinth is attached exclusively to the walls to ensure high maintainability of the coating and mobility during the linear expansion of wood (about 0.15% for dry lumber).

Important! The height of the groove / crest of modern lumber may not match the similar locks of the exploited sheet pile, produced during the Soviet era.

Therefore, the flooring restoration technology is used according to the scheme:

Advice! It is forbidden to use gaskets between the joists and floorboards of the finished floor, since it is these details that cause creaking in the future. Plastic wedges should be laid under the logs, control the upper plane of the bars from which they are made.

Subfloor replacement

When renovating an old wood floor, it may be necessary to replace the worn out subfloor. With a lag step that satisfies the operational loads, these elements remain in place, only the black flooring is dismantled and replaced with a new one.

Depending on the finishing floor covering, materials can be used:

Works are carried out according to standard technologies with the provision of natural ventilation in the underground space.

Log replacement

If the wooden flooring does not have visual defects, but its surface is uneven, there are creaks and other factors that reduce the quality of living, you will have to dismantle the parquet or tongue and groove board completely to provide access to the bars on which the flooring is attached.

Before repairing the logs, the screed should be revised, it is possible to replace the insulation, waterproofing and acoustic materials. In Soviet times, expanded clay or sawdust served as a heater, these materials are less effective than polystyrene foam, ecowool, and basalt heat insulator. Therefore, they are collected in bags and disposed of.

Log replacement is carried out according to the technology:

beating the horizontal with a laser plane builder to find the top point;
drawing a horizontal line on the walls at an arbitrary height;
laying timber near the walls, taking into account the horizontal level.

Logs can be mounted on polymer wedges or special adjustable bolts (adjustable floor system). The bar must be securely fixed to the floor slab (screed) with anchors to prevent creaking and movement during operation. Therefore, when using wedges, long anchors are used; in adjustable floor systems, the stability of the spatial geometry of the structure is ensured by metal studs:

they pass through the bar;
attached to the base;
adjustable in height with a nut, positioning the logs at the required level;
the studs are cut flush with the grinder after alignment in a single horizontal plane of all the logs inside the room.

Advice! The lags have a certain thickness, so in wooden floors(roughing and finishing), by default, an underground space appears in which it is necessary to provide natural ventilation. To do this, it is necessary to make cuts in the logs, and in the corners of the room, install the gratings diagonally into the flooring of the subfloor and floor covering.

Insulating materials

Despite the fact that the wooden floor in the apartment has soundproofing properties and reduces heat loss, it is often required additional installation insulating materials. Their relative position in the wooden floor cake is as follows:

noise-absorbing materials - always fit on a screed or floor slab to cut off structural noise from the lower apartment;
insulation - located on top acoustic material, the thickness is selected depending on the specific operating conditions;
vapor barrier - preferably a membrane laid on top of thermal insulation under subfloor boards or floor wooden coating to protect the insulation from getting wet with steam humid air from the premises;
waterproofing - applied by gluing or coating on a screed or floor slab, during wet rooms the second layer of waterproofing is made on top of the wooden floor before laying moisture-resistant cladding (protection against sewer leaks, water pipes).

Wooden floor pie in the apartment.

Advice! The presence of all the above insulating layers is not a prerequisite. For example, the thickness of the floor slab may be sufficient for the concrete to completely exclude the penetration of airborne noise. In this case, you can do without soundproofing material.

Paintwork

Floor painting refers to cosmetic repairs. Before painting, the following work is done:

Wood floor color options.

After that, the repaired floor is painted in several layers.

Looping and grinding

When saving bearing capacity Wooden floor elements may need to be flattened for a number of reasons:

the boards have dried up and warped over time;
gaps formed between the floorboards;
sheet pile "curved like a hump" in cross section;
on the separate sections the boards sank.

With a sufficient thickness of the tongue or parquet, these defects can be corrected without major repairs by grinding or sanding. Scraping equipment is expensive, it is rarely needed, so it is more reasonable to rent this equipment for the period of repair.

Grinding tongue with a belt machine.

Grinding does not require high qualifications, the necessary skills are acquired after processing 2 - 3 m² of flooring. Cycling machine more difficult to use, so it is easier to order a service from qualified specialists.

Thus, when operating a wooden floor in an apartment, repairs are available home master on their own. The easiest way is to level the plane of the floor, get rid of the squeak of the floorboards and paint the surface. Overhaul and replacement of logs, floorboards will cost more and take more time.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and offers with prices from construction teams and firms will come to your mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

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