DIY Tiffany table lamp with stem. DIY lampshade in tiffany style made of colored glass. Lamps from the Japanese Garden of the Louis C. Tiffany Treasure Museum
All my life there were stained-glass windows. For each multi-color panel, special types and shades of glass were made, but after each work there was great amount material. In order not to throw away glass and not send it for recycling, the artist decided to make practical things, which became lamps. The lamps contained the same variety of glass, and their subjects often repeated themes stained glass works. Invented by Louis Tiffany, the technique of connecting colored glass with a narrow strip of copper foil made it possible to create elegant lamps and lampshades with multiple fine details.
History of Tiffany Lamps
Tiffany lamps were exhibited for the first time in 1893 at the World's Columbian Fair in Chicago. Models attracted everyone's attention with their sophistication, magnificent play of light, and perfect execution. Art historian Julius Lessing, one of the leaders of the Berlin Museum, immediately acquired several pieces for the exposition of the Museum of Decorative Arts in Berlin. The earliest Tiffany lamps, made of blown or lead glass and bronze, were designed for kerosene lamps. As electric light became available and gained popularity, Tiffany began to offer his customers the choice of either oil or electric lighting designs.
In 1895, the first serial production of Tiffany lamps was made. They were available in various sizes and styles. Thousands of lamps, in multiple designs, were produced at Tiffany's workshops. Despite the fact that some models were mass-produced, each lampshade was unique due to the unique shades and types of glass. To make the lamps even more personal, most of the lampshades were removable. This allowed them to be combined with different metal bases, taking into account the tastes and needs of customers.
After the Dresden International Exhibition of 1897 and a number of Tiffany Glass Company exhibitions in Germany and Austria-Hungary, Tiffany lamps and other products became popular in this part of Europe. But in other countries, especially in France, where society treated American arts and crafts condescendingly, it was possible to gain popularity only thanks to the contract and the assistance of the art dealer Siegfried Bing.
In 1894, Siegfried Bing visited the Tiffany Glass Company, after which he began to promote the company's products for European demand. In his famous Parisian Art Nouveau gallery Maison De L "Art Nouveau (1895–1904), Bing represented and sold paintings, sculpture, jewelry, ceramics, textiles, glass, furniture, stained-glass windows. Contributed to the global spread in the art market works of art, supplying them to private collectors and museums. He advanced the careers of many subsequently famous artists, designers, sculptors, architects. He was the exclusive European dealer of large American companies: ceramic from Cenzenati, faience from Boston and Tiffany Glass Company. Without Byng's cooperation, after his death in 1905, Tiffany's products became less successful, the European audience lost interest in them. Although the stained glass technique for lampshades itself was borrowed and used in European art nouveau products.
In America, demand for Tiffany lamps declined substantially from the mid-1910s, although their production continued until the early thirties. Then they were forgotten for a long time, they had no place in newfangled interiors. In the 1970s, interest in lamps increased again, and since the eighties, it has grown into a real mania. At the peak of their popularity, the design of lamps was copied by many manufacturers, similar lamps were created using Tiffany technology. Genuine Tiffany lamps featured a variety of glass types in each model. It's never been easy colored glass, each element had color transitions and a special texture. Complex, sculptural-made, with decorative trim metal bases also became a feature of Tiffany.
Technology of stained glass Tiffany lampshades
Sketch L.K. Tiffany
motif for the lampshade "Poppies".
Watercolor, gouache, ink, paper.
At the beginning, a sketch was created according to the shape of the lampshade. On it, a drawing was drawn on paper, and each fragment of the pattern was numbered. According to the drawing, a template was cut out of cardboard, which was sometimes cast from brass, as a cutting guide. Each template had a number corresponding to the drawing.
According to the stencil, parts were cut out with a glass cutter from a large glass sheet or stained glass residues, all excess and irregularities were removed with pliers. Along the perimeter, each fragment was wrapped in a thin strip of copper foil, the edges of which were bent on both sides of the part.
The lampshade was going to wooden form with an incised pattern, fragments of the pattern were placed on it and soldered one by one with a soldering iron and tin solder. For each model, a new wooden mold was specially carved.
On the inside, all copper foil joints were also soldered.
If the selection and cutting of glass was carried out in the women's workshop, then the finishing with copper foil, assembly and soldering was done in the assembly workshop by men.
Tiffany lamps today
The cost of the lamps depends on the type of lampshade (blown or mosaic), how rare the model is, how many mosaic pieces it consists of, what are color shades, types of glass and the number of their varieties in one copy, how rare and complex the metal base is.
Poppy patterns are very popular among collectors. The cost ranges from $ 80,000-130,000. In 2013, a copy was sold for $135,750, which had an expensive "twisted vine" base. Probably with a different base, the lamp would cost closer to $100,000.
Lamp DAFFODIL AND NARCISSUS
Model "Ginkol and daffodils" was created in 1905. A magnificent specimen on a complex bronze base "Twisted leg water lily”, with tonal and color transitions in every detail of the lampshade. With an estimated value of $100,000–$150,000, it was sold in 2013 at Sotheby's for $191,000.
Lamps from the Japanese Garden of the Louis C. Tiffany Treasure Museum
In 1912, Michaan auctioned pieces from the Japanese Garden of the Louis C. Tiffany Treasure Museum by Takeo Horiuchi, an avid admirer of L. Tiffany's work and owner of perhaps the largest collection of his works. The auction attracted many wealthy collectors: the exhibits of the Takeo Horiuchi Museum contain undeniable originals, rare and most beautiful works of the Tiffany studio.
Chandelier Alamander from the collection
Takeo Horiuchi, sold
for $212,400 in 1912
from the Michaan auction.
The lampshade of the Laburnum lamp is an example of the most successful interpretations, flowering tree. The rather rare Bird Skeleton base resembles a tree trunk and roots. In 1906 the lampshade cost $175, the base $90. From the collection of the Matsue Garden Museum, Japan. Michaan starting cost: $500,000–$600,000.
With designed by Clara Driscoll
lampshade, from the collection
Takeo Horiuchi, sold
for $129,800 in 1912
from the Michaan auction.
Peony table lamp with shade designed by Clara Driscoll. The base "Crabs" was in the production of the company since 1898 and was made for gas lighting. At the Michaan auction, the lot was offered with a preliminary cost of $200,000–$300,000. Origin: Museum Collection Garden, Matsue, Japan.
The rarest and most expensive lamps
for a while" pink lotus was the most expensive lamp bought at auction. One of the earliest, most elegant and complex models, in December 1997, was sold at Christie's auction for $ 2,800,000. Unfortunately, the copy has not been exhibited anywhere since then, and photos of high quality that convey the beauty of the subject to the fullest can be found failed.
The "web" was developed in 1899, first presented by L.K. Tiffany at an exhibition in 1900, then in 1901. Initially, the models were intended for kerosene lighting, because the fuel tanks were masterfully disguised in mosaic, floral-patterned balusters. A few years after the release of the first Web, its design was changed to electricity, for which the wick and glass chimney were replaced with a device of three light bulbs. From the moment it was created, it was an extremely expensive design, designed for the firm's wealthiest clients. Its price in 1906 was at the level of $500, with an average wages in the country 22 cents per hour. Today Spiderweb remains one of the most attractive Tiffany lamps and the most expensive. In 2012, the "Web" was sold at Sotheby's for $ 3,250,000 at an initial bid of $ 2,500,000. Only seven designs of this model are known in the world. The photo shows a copy recognized as the best in color solution, selection of glass and safety. Lamp height is 30 1/4 inches, lampshade diameter is 19 inches.
Wisterias are perhaps the most iconic design among Tiffany Studios lamps and are considered an icon of American Art Nouveau design. It has been made since about 1903. “Wisterias” and “Lilies in the Pond” were awarded the main prize in Turin at the first Italian international exposition d "Arte Moderna Decorativa in 1902. The complex pattern of the lampshade consists of almost 2000 fragments. Each copy is distinguished by its shades of blue , with gradations from cobalt to aquamarine. The cost of Wisteria in 1906 was $ 400. In 2013, with an initial price of $ 600,000–800,000, the Wisteria lamp was auctioned by Sotheby's for $ 1,565,000. Structure height is 26 7/8" (68.2 cm), lampshade diameter is 17 3/4" (45.1 cm).
In 2013, the lamp “ Bat”(estimated cost $550,000–$750,000). The lamp was not sold, although it is one of the rarest models (only five pieces are known). The popular Art Nouveau story was rare in Tiffany's decor. This was one of the early models that went out of production in 1910 when Tiffany Studios stopped making metal bases with mosaic inlay, probably due to their labor and cost. The stylized bronze spider that serves as the lampshade cover was originally created for the "Spider" model.
unnamed lamp
Perhaps this lamp is the most unique. It has no name and remains in a single copy. The developed project was not put into production. Obviously, the item was not intended for sale. Lampshade without branding. The bronze mosaic base has an imprint of TIFFANY STUDIOS NEW. YORK.
The design remained in the studio until the closure and bankruptcy of the enterprise. After the death of L.K. The Tiffany lamp was sold by a public successor to the artist Charles Berman in 1938. Having changed hands several times, the lamp was offered for auction twice by Sotheby's in 1985 and 1992. The last owner is Takeo Horiuchi. The vase is being sold at auction by Michaan with an initial value of $1,000,000–$1,500,000. If the lot is purchased, I wonder what will be its final price?
Single copy
Tiffany lamps
Stamp on lamps
On each lampshade there were such options for imprints with an indispensable model number:
For a short time, the imprint on the bases contained a monogram:
Matching lampshade and base numbers indicate that the objects are made for the same model, thus driving up the cost of the lamp.
If you have minimal glass and soldering skills, try making your own Tiffany lamp. Perhaps the lampshade will not be as perfect as the branded one, but it will definitely cost less and shine with a special aura. Below we will tell you what tools you will need and how to implement your plans step by step almost at a professional level.
Instruments
Tiffany lampshades are created using stained glass technique. It is necessary to cut out the elements from colored glass according to the sketch, wrap each in a copper foil tape and carefully solder the fragments.
With quality tool work easier and more reliably. Prepare:
Drawing templates (2 pieces);
- strong form for lampshade;
- a marker, preferably thin;
- sheets of colored glass, the quantity depends on the complexity of the sketch and the number of shades;
- glass cutter and wire cutters to break off fragments, preferably several pieces;
- grinder to process glass, make edges smooth and fit fragments;
- strips of copper foil with a self-adhesive side;
- soldering iron and tin;
- soldering flux;
- patina;
- a brush for applying solutions;
- the base of the lamp (base).
Sketch
Genuine Tiffany lamps contain thousands of glass fragments. If your copy is simpler, the components will be several tens or even hundreds. Perfectly combining them and not getting confused is not an easy task. So first work on the sketch.
There are ready-made templates for lampshades on sale, including copies original models Tiffany down to the smallest detail. They are suitable for reproductions. If you want to show your imagination, create your own, exclusive drawing. Then print it in duplicate. One is glued to the mold, the second will cut the glass. 
All fragments in the sketch must be numbered, and the direction of the leaves, petals, veins and other parts of the drawing is indicated by arrows. On ready-made templates, this usually happens, if you draw your own, do not forget about this important nuance.
The form
Lampshades found in the Tiffany Studious collection various designs: round, conical, trapezoid and others. What will be the lamp - you decide. It's easiest to make a rectangular instance with flat surfaces, this option is suitable for beginners. 
Styrofoam molds are sold in ready-made. Often, stores offer several templates that are ideally suited in size to one form. It's comfortable. Of course, in the end the lamp will cost more.
You can build a form from improvised means: gypsum, wood, papier-mâché, etc. The surface must be strong to support the weight of the glass and the pressure of soldering.
Glass
If you want to create your Tiffany style masterpiece, which will be as close as possible to the original, choose glass handmade. For example, Uroboros. High-quality lampshades are also obtained from opal glass. Suitable Spectrum and other proven brands.
Step-by-step instruction
1. If you plan to make a lamp according to your own sketch, start with a pencil sketch. After that, select the shades of the picture. Make the template full size. Number the details.
2. Regardless of which template you use, your own or purchased, indicate a color on each fragment. If the drawing is complex and there are many tones, it is easiest to assign a code number or letter to each shade of glass and apply it to the sketch.
3. Cut out the numbered pieces from the first template. Put each element in turn on the glass desired color and circle with a marker. 
4. Draw along the lines with a glass cutter. If necessary, chip off the excess with clips. Sand uneven edges. Do the same manipulations with each fragment until you get all the mosaic elements. In order not to get confused, arrange them on the template according to the numbering. 
5. The next step is to work with the copper foil. Do not forget, the thinner it is, the more elegant the mosaic will look. Wrap the edges of each piece and press firmly. Fix with your fingers, then flatten with a handy flat object. The foil is already with an adhesive acrylic side, black or clear, which makes the process easier. Although in the days of Tiffany the surface was smeared with beeswax.
6. Coat the foil with flux using a brush to set the solder.
7. Use a soldering iron to apply lead-tin solder to the foil. Lay the lampshade fragments close to each other on the form and fasten together with spot soldering. After that, carefully connect all parts with a soldering iron, including inside. The foil is quite thin, avoid overheating so that it does not burst. The soldering iron should only touch the tin. To prevent it from flowing into the lampshade, you can, on the other hand, seal the joints with paper tape. 
8. Place a brass or other tip on the top of the lampshade, they are also sold separately. Solder it.
9. Reprocessing with a soldering iron lines on front side make them smooth. Sometimes craftsmen reinforce the lower diameter of the ceiling, a wire or a chain of brass balls will do, this material can also be soldered.
10. Apply a patina solution to the lampshade according to the instructions. It comes in brown, copper, green and other shades, it's a matter of taste. Processing will “age” the lamp, muffle the shine of the solder and the top. 
The stained glass lampshade is ready. It remains to install a rack with a cord and a lamp holder. Bases, as they are also called, are on sale, you can choose the right one. The plafond is fixed with blocking screws. The pillars of real Tiffany lamps were made of bronze, but today zinc is more commonly used. Outwardly, it is difficult to distinguish, but the difference in price is palpable.
When making stained-glass windows using the Tiffany technique, there are many small multi-colored pieces of glass that have not been used for years. High-quality Spectrum Glass is very expensive, so even a small piece wants to be used. I offer options for making pyramid lamps at home from the remnants of Spectrum Glass with my own hands.
Making stained glass windows using the Tiffany technique is an addictive hobby. Each new piece is a real joyful event. And if you purchased expensive instruments, then they will serve for a long time, you will only have to buy additional materials and chemicals used in the manufacture of Tiffany stained glass windows.
Stained glass requires special cutting, certain fragments of glass are selected for the drawings, and as a result, many small multi-colored pieces remain that have not been used for years. High-quality Spectrum Glass is very expensive, so even a small piece wants to be used.
I offer options for making pyramid lamps at home from the remnants of Spectrum Glass with my own hands. It is believed that the pyramid harmonizes the space, and when illuminated, it shines and envelops the room in a fabulous twilight.
Lamp "Rhombuses"
To make Tiffany stained glass, I use tools and equipment:
- grinding machine "Crystal"
- soldering iron with temperature controller Weller Profikit, 100W
- glass cutter, cutting machine small parts, tongs for breaking glass; zag-zag nippers, small scissors
- brass profile (broaching), foil (folio) and fixture for it
- flux, patina, POS-61 solder, finishing oil
We draw a triangle on whatman paper, taking into account that a lamp with a stand freely enters the pyramid. It turned out to be convenient for me, the length is 22 cm, the height is 26 cm. We cross out the same rhombuses, 6 triangles are obtained from the bottom. Since the figures are the same, only 2 templates need to be prepared.
We take a small piece of glass, apply a template and circle it with a felt-tip pen. Then we cut out the figure, if necessary, bring it to right size with the help of zag-zag nippers and put it on the sketch, choosing the most pleasant combinations.
From the lower left corner, we begin to grind the parts on a grinder so that the joints are perfectly even. For convenience, along the outer lines of the sketch, rhombuses and triangles are fixed with carnations. After assembling several parts, the figures are wrapped in self-adhesive foil, while the corners are necessarily straightened and carefully ironed.
For easier assembly, I solder the assembled figures in several stages.
After the entire sketch is filled and tacked, I cut out the “legs” of the lamp, somewhere 2 cm long, 1.2 cm high with a slope according to the model, wrap it with foil and solder it on the sides below. After that, I smear the seams with a flux with a brush and begin to solder the stained-glass window itself, retreating from the sides by 0.5 cm. The more convex the seams are, the more beautiful the finished lamp will look.
I turn over, solder the seams with reverse side without tubercles, beauty is not visible there. I cut brass profiles according to lateral dimensions, taking into account the legs, apply, clamp with tongs, coat with flux, solder the seams on both sides and apply thin layer solder on profiles.
Thus, we collect 4 walls of the pyramid, changing colors based on the remaining suitable glass. By the way, you can assemble the last, fourth wall from triangles by dividing the rhombuses in half in the sketch.
We collect the lamp. You can fix the sides, or you can involve friends or family members in the creativity to hold the parts while you grab the ribs with tin. Can be applied on the sides a large number of solder and make waves on it or what anyone can do. It doesn't matter, any drawing looks beautiful.
Then, with the help of a powder and a sponge, we wash the glass and seams washing powder. Apply with a sponge (do not forget to wear gloves!) patina and rinse generously again running water. Remaining with new sponge apply a finishing oil that will give your lamp shine and holiday look. I repeat the procedure with oil in a few days, and I wipe the glasses to a shine in a week so that everything is absorbed.
I install the light source on a square made of chipboard. The source can be attached to the stiffeners of the lamp, but when replacing an energy-saving light bulb, it is difficult to get close to the base, so I just put the light source under the pyramid.
Lamp made of triangles
The easiest and most economical pyramid to manufacture, but this is in no way inferior to other models. I immediately draw a triangle on plywood, collect all the small pieces in a flat box and choose those that match in color, texture, and transparency. I apply the first one, cut out the triangle to the maximum size, select the second one, and assemble it not according to the sketch, but according to the “opportunity”.
Perform the entire process and sequence of work as described in the Rhombus lamp.
And even after these lamps, you will have very small pieces left. Don't throw away. After all, there is still a mosaic. I am sure that creativity is a way of life, a state of mind. I wish you wonderful new products!
You have decided to make a Tiffany lamp yourself, so you are ready to take the risk. Because the creation of a lampshade using Tiffany technology, as well as any 3-d volumetric form, requires a special approach and skill.
& nbsp & nbsp & nbsp & nbsp & nbsp & nbsp the tool that you will need you can see in the section How to make a Tiffany stained glass but most importantly patience and again patience. Because fitting 400 small pieces of glass is not for the faint of heart.
How does a Tiffany lamp start? Of course, from the mold for the lampshade. It may be a cone, or it may be classical form, or even looks like a basin, but it is the shape for the lampshade that will be your reliable companion throughout the assembly, fitting, soldering of the future lamp shade. You can see the molds for the lampshades of expanded polystyrene lamps. Then you will need a ready-made pattern template in two copies. You will stick one on the lampshade mold. And according to the second template, you will cut glass. You can choose a pattern from those offered in our workshop on the page Patterns for lamp shades, or you can create your own exclusive sketch and transfer it to the lampshade mold. On ready-made templates for making a lampshade, each element is numbered, and the direction of the veins of the petals and leaves is indicated by arrows. In order not to get confused, we recommend that you always number each cut glass element. But which glass should you choose? For copies (reproductions) of Tiffany lamps, it is desirable to use handmade glass - it can be Uroboros (Ouroboros) or another of a similar type. A lamp assembled from such glass catches the eye. But if such glass is not on sale, you can assemble a lampshade from Spectrum opal glass (Spectrum). In whatever order you assemble the lampshade, be sure to solder all the seams. The foil, if left for a long time, begins to oxidize, which can subsequently make soldering difficult.
Subtleties of foil wrapping. Tiffany and Tiffany because they didn't walk along easy way, so there are a lot of internal bends in the elements of the lamps, sometimes of such a diameter that you have to resort to using a 6 mm grinding head. But if you don’t have one, then it doesn’t matter, it’s enough if you get grinding head 16 mm. Since the shape of the elements of classic Tiffany lamps is close to the originals - flowers and petals, there are a lot of internal bends. Foil should be applied from the center of such a bend. The lower diameter of the lampshade must be reinforced with a 2 mm bar or wire, a brass chain of balls looks very good. It is easy to solder.
And the last important final element of the lamp will be the base. Whatever you choose, it must be stable and reliable, since the lampshade of the Tiffany lamp turns out to be quite weighty.
And now we invite you to look into our
This time we will have Master Class for manufacturing lamps from plastic bottle . Even from two plastic bottles. Everything is done quite simply with your own hands. As a result, we get an interesting, original and, one might say, a designer lamp.
We will need:
- 5 liter plastic bottle
- plastic shampoo bottle
- sealant
- wires
- metal tube
- bulb
- paint on glass
— polymer clay
AT These are the bottles we need.
Cut off about half of the 5 liter bottle.
From above, under the neck with a marker, we make six serifs. Equidistant, of course.
From these serifs we draw lines vertically down.
With we draw an approximately similar pattern on the bottle. Try to make it symmetrical.
Below, where the drawing ends, cut out the plastic along the outline of the drawing.
Now, according to the marked drawing, we apply the sealant with thin lines.
Below, where we just cut off the drawing along its contour, we also do not forget to go through the sealant.
Let the sealant dry. After it is completely dry, cover it with silver or gold paint. We need to achieve a metal effect.
Now it is desirable to fill the cavities with paint on glass. Use more than one or two colors. Use three or more colors. The lamp will look richer and brighter.
Now cut off the neck of the bottle. We needed it for convenient application of sealant and paint. We held a bottle for him.
Now let's start cutting a small bottle.
But first, cut out an oval from plywood or thick cardboard.
We make a hole in the middle of it. And we take two caps from such a small bottle and also make holes in them.
At the bottom of the bottle we make three holes in a line. Solder the lid to the bottom. The middle hole in the bottle and in the cap should match.
We insert a hollow metal tube.
We insert the bottle design into a wooden oval.
We fasten with a nut from below.
To hide the traces of the connection, we cover everything with polymer clay.
We cover everything with golden paint or any paint imitating metal.
Top metal tube screw on the bulb socket. We pass the wires just through the tube.
We now return to the top of the lamp. From above, where the bottle had a neck, we make such a cap.
In order to top part kept on the bottom without additional fasteners, we make such a structure on a light bulb.
Then this structure is inserted into the cap on top of the lamp. The photo shows the inside of the lamp. Because there is polymer clay, everything will harden, after a while.
That's it. plastic bottle lamp ready. Everything as you can see was done by hand.