Additional required tool. The road of the spoon is not only for dinner: do-it-yourself wooden spoons How to carve a wooden spoon: a step-by-step guide
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In the arsenal of any craftsman involved in the manufacture of decorative objects, there are sure to be handmade wood cutters. These devices can be very different, and therefore it is advisable for beginners to familiarize themselves with their main types, as well as to study the features of choosing and caring for such an instrument.
Carving accessories
General principles
Wood carving is a fairly popular technique for decorating various products.
As a rule, the process itself occurs according to the following scheme:
- First, a blank is made of wood, whether it be a flat board, a deck or a figured blank.
Note! Sometimes with help. In this case, such a fragment is selected, the shape of which has the maximum decorative potential.
- Then a rough leveling of the workpiece surface is performed, during which all defects are removed from it.
- After that, the surface is processed with special cutters, with the help of which a part of the wood is selected. Due to this, a decorative relief is formed.
- After the thread itself is completed, finishing– grinding of cut out areas, impregnation protective compounds, full or partial painting, varnishing, etc.
The most important tools in this process are wood carving chisels. In addition to the skill of the carver himself, it is the quality and proper selection of the cutter that determines how clean the ornament or plot image on wood will turn out.
That is why below we will consider the main varieties of such tools and describe where and how they are used.
The main types of incisors
To create three-dimensional images, masters use the most different types wood cutters. In principle, if you have dexterity, you can do without some of the products listed below, but in order to achieve best result it is better to collect as extensive a set as possible and use each device for its intended purpose.
The main types of incisors are presented in the table below:
| Variety | Application at work |
| Knives-jambs |
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| Chisels | The most common type of incisors. A typical chisel is a long rod, at the end of which a cutting edge is formed. Depending on the shape of the edge of the chisel, there are:
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Cutting tool
The quality of the tool largely depends on the steel grade, competent hardening and sharpening.
In order not to be upset about a bad tool in the future, I advise you to pay attention and time to it from the very beginning. From work good tool you will enjoy: the chips will easily separate, leaving a clean, burr-free cut. If it is possible to check the quality, try pressing the needle file along the end of the canvas. Leaves a mark on mild steel. If the needle file slides off, does not crash, the tool is not bad.
Practice has shown which steel grades should be preferred in the manufacture of tools. This is spring steel 65G, which is used in the production of various springs and automobile springs. It is good not only for cranberries. Bearing steel ШХ15 holds the edge sharpening well, it is used in semicircular chisels, cranberries. Steels 9ХС, 9ХФ are plastic and suitable for wide application. High-speed steels P18, P9, etc. are also used. I note, however, no matter what grade of steel you use, if the heat treatment is illiterate, that is, hardening and tempering, the tool may not be of the best quality. This requires conditions and experience. If you don't have one, contact a specialist or look into heat treatment manuals.
It is impossible to determine the steel grade at home, this can only be done in the laboratory. I want to give this advice: do not throw away those that have become unusable due to prolonged use, broken, worn, but made of sufficiently strong steels and suitable files, hacksaw blades different widths, taps, drills, scalpels, straight razors, springs, bearings. For petty work on soft wood even the knitting needles of an old or broken umbrella, screwdrivers will come in handy. You can give a second life to all these things, but in a new quality. I know many carvers who skillfully use waste to create their tool.
In the store, purchase a set of needle files that come with a universal handle with collet clamp. It is convenient to use and compact to store. Make needle files into cutting tools for small crafts. It is easy to make flat and oval chisels by shortening the needle file by 20–30 mm in order to reduce deflection when resting on the material. A miniature joint and a knife will also not be superfluous. If you anneal a flat file on fire gas stove, it will lend itself to reforging, and from it you can make a spatula, a miniature spoon cutter.
I advise you to use a linoleum engraver when working with soft woods. Although these tools dull quickly due to the poor quality of the steel, they have the right shape. cutting blade and are suitable for contour carving and ornamental cutting. Surgical instruments that have become unusable can also be used. They are made of suitable steel and are close in shape to the requirements of the carver.
So, let's look at the types of cutting tools. It includes knives, jambs, flat and semicircular chisels, cutters, corners, cranberries, spoon cutters, plows.
Knives
When in a conversation with colleagues you are interested in what kind of tool they work with, you first of all ask about knives. The knife is, as it were, a natural extension of the carver's hand, an obedient executor of his plans. When I cut, there is a feeling that the hand, hand and blade are an inseparable whole, controlled by my consciousness.
I saw a lot of different knives from the masters - everyone gets used to his own. There may be several of them - each carving technique has its own, but there is always a favorite, universal, most convenient to use.
Photo 7. Knives
For many years now I have been cutting most of my work with a homemade knife with a 4 cm long blade. It cuts off the excess mass of material, creates a plastic shape, cuts out large and small details, applies an ornament, leaves a mark on the final surface treatment. Of course, I can not do without other tools, but a considerable percentage of the work falls on this modest hard worker. It has been successfully tested at work and by many of my students. Everyone who uses it confirms its versatility and convenience.
To make such a knife, you will need a straight razor. A hacksaw blade of suitable size or a scalpel will also come in handy. The process of making a knife is simple. Consider it on the example of using a scalpel (Fig. 3.3, a).
According to your hand, adjust the length of the handle so that the back of the head in the work rests against the center of the palm, and the thumb and forefinger clasp the handle at the beginning of the canvas. I do not cover the handle of the knife with anything. It gets dirty, of course, quickly, but it slips less in the hand and absorbs the sweat of the palm better when you work a lot. The feeling of contact with an unvarnished pen is more pleasant, does not distract, and every little thing matters in long and serious work.
Rice. 3.3. Knives: a- universal from a scalpel; b- Bogorodsky; in– blade shapes; G– how to hold the utility knife
After the handle is ready, start sharpening the cutting edge. Grind both planes of the blade on the emery wheel with the rotation of the shaft on the tool. When grinding near the edge of the blade, the sound will be higher. Learn to recognize it. In the future, when sharpening, this will help to accurately determine whether you are touching the edge of a rotating circle. When lowering the canvas into water to cool, hold it there for a while, allowing it to cool. By the time of sharpening, there should be a drop of water on the edge of the blade; when it boils and evaporates during the turning process, lower the blade into the water again. If, nevertheless, it is not possible to save the canvas from burning, grind off this place and sharpen it again. After successful sharpening, finish on a diamond or fine-grained corundum wheel with the rotation of the shaft from the tool, and then proceed to dressing on a felt or leather wheel lubricated with GOI paste.
Photo 8, 9. Two ways to hold a knife
To check the degree of sharpness, make several cuts on wooden bar soft rock along and across the fibers. Look closely at the cut surfaces. They should be clean, without grooves, burrs, with a slight sheen. A sharp tool cuts without too much effort, leaving a pleasant feeling of overcoming. Sharpening and straightening a knife can also be done on bars or whetstones. This method is acceptable, although it requires a lot of time, which is not always enough.
Having sharpened the knife, you must understand that not only has appeared in your hands reliable assistant but also a dangerous weapon. Beginners, forgetting this, often injure their hands, especially the left. The blade enters the mass of wood with a significant force voltage, breaks off in inexperienced hands, touching the hand or fingers. Cuts can be significant.
The universal knife is held in two ways (Fig. 3.3, d). In the first case - the blade away from you. In this case, the butt of the knife at the time of cutting is supported by the thumb of the left hand, which simultaneously holds the workpiece. The blade, moving forward, goes along the radius. The second method is reminiscent of cutting the peel of a potato, as housewives do - the knife is held with the blade towards you. You should learn to cut so that the blade after cutting the chips passes above the thumb right hand otherwise, it may come off the material and injure your hand. If you are left-handed, all actions, respectively, change in this and all subsequent technologies for handling the tool.
To protect against injuries and corns, sew or glue fingertips out of the skin, put them on your thumbs while working.
Remember: the goal of your first woodwork is not so much to create an artistic craft, but to acquire skills in handling wood. cutting tool and understanding of wood as a material (its layering, various hardness and other qualities).
For safety and to prevent dulling of the cutting edge during storage, make a rubber or leather case-fuse, which, after finishing work, put on the blade - it will be convenient to take the knife with you for work outside the workshop.
Leaving the principle of making a knife the same, the blade can be made in various shapes (Fig. 3.3, c).
If you are used to a different design and shape of the cutting part of the knife, then I advise you to use the Bogorodsk knife with caution: it has a long cutting part of the blade, and you can injure your hand out of habit.
The carver accumulates knives over time various shapes and sizes: shoe type, as well as with a long and narrow blade or with a long handle resting on the shoulder - for cutting plywood and thin boards. All of them will be useful in certain processing processes - each in its place is sometimes simply irreplaceable.
Knives-jambs
This is a kind of flat chisel with a beveled cutting edge. On sale there are shoe-knives-jambs with a blade beveled at an angle of 30 °. They can be used, but the cutter often needs 50-70° jambs. Chamfer sharpening is carried out both from two and from one side. Double-sided jambs are mainly required when carving flat reliefs.
On fig. 3.4, a shows a small joint, convenient for working at the initial stages of training, for cutting out the simplest geometric and contour ornaments. It is made from a hacksaw blade 14–16 mm wide and 0.8 mm thick. Easily enters the wood, pushing the layer a little apart, which allows not to chip small parts.
Keep a small jamb in work should be in a fist (Fig. 3.4, c). Thumb place on the back of the head of the handle - it is more convenient, by pressing, to insert the blade into the mass of material. When cutting towards you, position the nose away from you and vice versa.
For larger elements of a geometric ornament, the blade needs to be made wider, the size of the handle should be increased according to your hand. A metal blade 15–25 mm wide and 2 mm thick will come in handy, the blade exits from the handle up to 100 mm, the chamfers are sharpened up to 6–8 mm.
A jamb with one-sided sharpening (Fig. 3.4, b) is useful for removing material, cutting out ornaments, finishing volumetric surfaces. It can be used instead of a flat chisel: thanks to the beveled cutting edge, it is easier to cut off the excess. It is easy to make it from a flat chisel by grinding cutting edge at an angle of 60°. The width can be different, but 15–25 mm is most suitable.
It is necessary to hold a large jamb with two hands: the right one holds the handle, pressing the center of the palm into the back of the head and creating an effort in the direction of the intended cut, the left one covers the canvas from above, clasping it with all fingers.
Rice. 3.4. Knives-jambs: a- bilateral ( 1 - heel; 2 - nose; 3 - shank; 4 - handle-handle; 5 - back of the head); b- one-sided; in- ways to keep them: 6 - bilateral; 7 – unilateral
The thumb is also on top, touching the beginning of the handle. It is undesirable to keep it below, since it will touch the workpiece at the time of cutting. The left hand, holding the tool, restrains the movement of the jamb forward so as not to cut off the excess. At the same time, if necessary, with the lower part of the hand at the wrist (conditionally I call it the “heel”), resting against the product itself, holds it.
If the workpiece is small in size, and the cut is made from the edge, then the jamb is held with the left hand from below. To do this, put the canvas on left palm and cover it with your thumb. index finger With your left hand, simultaneously hold the tool at the moment of cutting and press the part against the stop. The method of holding flat and semicircular chisels is the same. This is convenient when processing products that are not fixed with a clamp or in another way - it is easy to change their position, the left hand is out of danger, as it does not fall under the cutting tool (an important moment, and you should always remember about it).
Over time, it is desirable for the carver to learn how to work with the right and left hands. There are places where it is inconvenient to cut with the right, and then the ability to operate with the same skill with the left will come in handy.
Flat chisels
Constantly in work, chisels with a flat, non-beveled cutting edge will be needed. They will need a variety of widths - from 2 to 30-40 mm - depending on the work performed and the size of the material. In small products, chisels with a narrow blade are used, the mass of wood is cut off due to the effort of the hand. For the manufacture of large products, generalized parts, as well as cutting large masses, stock up on wider chisels. When working with them, both strong hand pressure on the chisel and a blow with a mallet are necessary. For the manufacture of homemade chisels use anything that is made of good steel and close in shape.
I offer one of standard options flat chisel. Consider carefully its shape and dimensions in Fig. 3.5.
Rice. 3.5. Flat chisels: a- without sides ( 1 - cutting edge; 2 - chamfer; 3 - canvas; 4 - shank; 5 - emphasis; 6 - neck; 7 - heel; 8 - handle handle; 9 - back of the head; 10 – rubber nozzle); b- with a side; in- sharpening methods ( 11–13 - correct: 11 - double chamfer; 12 - single chamfer, 13 – double-sided chamfer; 14 - incorrect)
Chisels of industrial production are sometimes produced with plastic handles, but practice has shown that this is inconvenient - under the blow of a mallet, such handles produce extra noise, do not absorb sweat from the hands, and if the mallet is wooden, then it wears out faster. A more practical solution is to make the handle wooden without varnish.
Photo 10. Flat chisels. In the center, a rubber tip from crutches, keeps the handle from being hit by a mallet, reducing noise, which is desirable in a home environment
Flat and other types of chisels produced by the industry are made with conical shanks, which is impractical. In operation, from repeated blows with a mallet, a chisel with a conical shank can jump out of the handle-handle. For homemade chisels, I recommend grinding the shank to square section. Several shallow notches are made on its ribs. The handle is given an octagonal shape by chamfering the corners of the bar with a chisel and a file. Do not forget to make the handle narrower in the direction of the stop, and round the back of the head. Now pour glue into the hole or epoxy resin and firmly push the handle onto the shank until it stops.
When working with wide chisels, the effort of the hand is often not enough for the chisel to enter the material. Carvers in such cases use a mallet, making single, double blows on the handle or a series of blows. The back of the handle wears out quickly from this. And the sound when you hit the handle with a mallet is loud. To prevent this from happening, get some rubber tips for crutches at the pharmacy. They are sold in two or three sizes. Choose one whose diameter matches the thickness of the back of the handle. For more used chisels, put on a personal tip (Fig. 3.5, 10), and for rarely used ones, have two or three interchangeable ones, worn only when necessary. You can also buy thick rubber mallets or stuff leather on the end of a wooden mallet.
As long-term practice has shown, a handle equipped with a rubber tip, in addition to allowing you to get rid of excess noise and save the back of your head, has another important quality - under single and serial blows, the cutting edge enters the mass of wood not sharply and hard (dry), but softly and shallow depth. A series of blows merge into one smooth movement, such as with the action of a jackhammer. The left hand, holding the chisel, regulates its direction, leading along the volume of the product, easily bypassing the bulges and depressions, preventing the excess from being cut off.
In wood carving, the principle “better under than over” is of no small importance. I hope that the rubber tip carving technique will help develop a feel for the material and allow for more precise processing.
When the handle is done, proceed to sharpening. For flat chisels, as well as for jambs, pay attention to the correctness of the chamfers. They can be of various shapes.
On fig. 3.5.11 shows a double chamfer. Its first, slightly concave, section is made on the oval edge of the grinding wheel. Its length, if steel good quality, 2.5–3 times more thickness canvases. With weak metal, make the chamfers shorter, that is, two thicknesses. This will require more force to cut the material, but sharpening will last longer. Grind the second section in the next step on the flat side of the grinding wheel, a diamond-driven disc or on fine-grained whetstones, finish on a felt wheel or whetstone. Double chamfer is done more often on chisels used for precise, without hitting a mallet, work that is done mainly by hand.
Another option is a single bevel, which forms a flat surface from the heel to the cutting edge (Fig. 3.5, 12). They grind it on the sides of the grinding wheel, bring it up, as in the previous version. A single bevel can be a little shorter and stiffer. This gives it greater reliability in cutting hard, transverse layers, encountered knots, when you have to work with a blow with a mallet.
Sometimes, due to inexperience, a beginner folds the chamfer (Fig. 3.5, 14), as a result of which it turns out without a heel (which is the stop when the cutter leaves the mass of wood). When you enter such a chisel into the workpiece, you have to raise the handle too high. This entails the need to overcome the excessive resistance of the material, with the danger of chipping off the excess.
At the end of sharpening, try to make several cuts on the bar along and across the fibers. A well-sharpened cutting edge easily enters the wood, leaving a nice shiny, scratch-free cut.
Semicircular chisels
There is a great variety of semicircular chisels that differ in width, radius of curvature of the cross section of the blade and the shape of the cutting edge. Such chisels have a wide range of applications - from the rough removal of a mass of material from large volumes to the creation of plastic images, cutting out ornaments, reliefs, small parts and final finishing of the surface texture. In all cases, they easily remove chips, forming cuts of the same radius on the surface of the wood as the bend of the blade. To avoid scratches, they are introduced into the material so that one or both edges remain above the plane of the workpiece.
The cutting edge is usually sharpened from the outside. Depending on the purpose and for convenience, the thread can be straight, convex, concave and elongated. The latter is used in turning and bracket threading.
Rice. 3.6. Semicircular chisel: a- construction; b– width and radii of the cutting edges ( 1 - sloping; 2 – medium; 3 - cool); in– edge shapes ( 4 - straight line; 5 - radius; 6 - concave; 7 - extended)
There is another option for sharpening a semicircular chisel, when the chamfer of the cutting edge is made from the side of the inner plane. Such a tool is necessary for expanding and cleaning the bottlenecks of internal volumes, where it is not possible to hold a chisel at an angle to the plane. For example, the narrow neck of a vessel, a narrow opening in the volume.
Photo 11. Radius chisels
In stores you can buy a large number of various semicircular chisels. But, if possible, do not neglect the services of a competent craftsman or give yourself pleasure - try to make them yourself.
It is easy to make a good chisel from a metal tap - you need to patiently remove the excess thickness from the end of the blade with emery and sharpen the chamfer. Such a tool does not dull for a long time, even on dense wood it gives a clean cut.
Any tool should only be made of good steel, especially for a beginner, as this is the key to success, a guarantee that an amateur carver will not be disappointed in his hobby.
Photo 12. The first way to hold an oval chisel
Photo 13. The second way to hold an oval chisel
Photo 14. The third way to hold an oval chisel is with two hands
Due to the fact that semicircular chisels have a curved blade, when sharpening them, you need to carefully monitor them so that the chamfer is turned evenly over the entire surface. To do this, touching the rotating abrasive wheel with the edge of the tool, tilt the latter from left to right and in reverse order, without stopping along the entire edge, so that bald patches do not form. Burrs with inside remove the planes with an emery cloth on a stick of the desired radius or fine-grained bars with a oval edge. You can use felt and leather circles with GOI paste.
Rice. 3.7. a - tsarazik; b - corners and their varieties: 1 - spicy; 2 – radius; 3 - concave; in - possible sizes corners and walls
Shelving chisels are useful to complete the surface treatment, making it soft and smooth transitions. Sloping chisels cut shallowly, as if dressing the product in rhythmic, non-contrasting scales.
In work, a semicircular chisel is held in the same way as a flat one.
Tzaraziki
These are semicircular chisels with a small (1–3 mm) blade bending radius and high, 5–10 mm parallel sides (Fig. 3.7, a). Suitable for cutting deep grooves. They are used in reliefs, contour and ornamental carvings.
corners
Two flat chisels connected at an angle form a corner. Small in size, with an angle of 20–50°, with a height of sides of 5–8 mm, they are convenient for cutting contours, stroking grooves, and making geometric ornaments. Large corners with an angle of 50 to 140° and high sides (10–30 mm) are used for deep cuts in large works, reliefs, and also when removing large masses of material. If a flat chisel or knife has to make two cuts, then the corner does this work in one motion - it cuts off both edges at once, forming an even groove. This simplifies and speeds up the carving process. I offer a drawing of a small corner and size options (Fig. 3.7, b, c).
On fig. 3.7, b shows the profile of a concave corner, with which you can, where necessary, make the walls of the grooves convex. This will give your ornament more artistic expressiveness.
Photo 15. Different kinds corners
Carvers use mainly corners with a straight cutting edge that is perpendicular to the axis of the blade, but some work is more convenient to do with elongated or beveled corners. Sharpening occurs in the following order. Sharpen each plane, as you did with a flat chisel. Grind the outer side of the corner with a rounded chamfer. When doing this, be careful: it is easy to burn or grind off more than necessary, cool in water more often. To remove burrs from the inside of the corner, prepare a stick with a sharp edge wrapped in emery cloth. Bring the edge of the planes with a diamond or on a felt circle with GOI paste or on a whetstone. For correct sharpening corner will require some skill.
Cranberries
To sample complex ornaments, deep volumes, bas-reliefs, you will need flat, semicircular, corner chisels of various sizes with a short or long curved blade and neck, which allow you to process hard-to-reach places for ordinary chisels. Cranberries are complex in shape, so it is difficult to make them, but they greatly facilitate the labor process and improve the quality of work. It is not always possible to replace them with some other tool.
Photo 16. Various types of cranberries
There are several types of cranberries.
Spoon cutters
These are knives with a curved blade (Fig. 3.9, a), which have long been used to cut out containers of spoons, ladles, bowls (bratin). Convenient when working with soft woods.
Sharpening spoon cutters and rings is not very convenient, this work requires a certain skill. The difficulty lies in the fact that the cutting edge is located in a circle. Be careful when touching the grinding wheel, turn the edge evenly, achieve an even (one width) bevel without bald spots. Finish finishing with a touchstone, sandpaper on a pencil, stick or felt circle with GOI paste.
Rice. 3.8. Cranberries: a- stepped; b- with a short canvas; in- with a long canvas; G- concave; d– application
Rice. 3.9. Spoon cutter ( a), ring ( b), hooks ( in), small plows ( G)
Necessary set of cutting tools
We examined the main types of cutting tools. Based on the proposed, you will be able to gradually acquire or manufacture the tool that is necessary for your work. Some carvers, forgetting that there is a fairly wide assortment, manage with a primitive set (3-6 chisels) and this clearly robs themselves. I will not argue - to each his own, but practice has shown that a sufficient variety of tools facilitates and speeds up the process of creating a work, improves the quality of work.
Rice. 3.10. The main forms of the cutting tool: a- knife; b- knife-jamb; in – flat chisel; G- chisel with sides; d- sloping chisel; e- medium chisel; g - a cool chisel; h- step chisel; and- cranberries with a short web; to- cranberries with a long web; l- reverse cranberry; m- tsarazik; n- corner; about- spoon cutter; P- ring; R- small plow
I place a short list of the tools most used by carvers in the manufacture of decorative and sculptural works. Those in bold recommend purchasing first. Such a set will open up wide opportunities for beginners.
Blade length knives 40 , 60 mm
Jambs 10 wide, 15 , 22 mm
Flat chisels 2, 5, 12 wide, 18 , 25 mm
semicircular sloping 6, 12 , 20 mm
medium 6, 12 , 18, 25 mm
cool 12 , 18, 22 mm
Tzaraziki 2.5 mm wide
Corners 30°, 50°, 90°
Cranberries flat 5.15 mm wide
semicircular medium 18 mm
steep 12, 20 mm
Once again I want to remind you that you should purchase a cutting tool made only of good steel, suitable form and sizes, with comfortable handles. Monitor its condition, sharpen before work, store in a conspicuous place, protect the cutting edge from blunting. Remember that the cutting tool is not only your first assistant in carving, but also a subject of increased danger. Treat him carefully, caringly and even with respect - he will answer you the same.
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Making wooden spoons is a simple and exciting process that allows you to touch the centuries-old traditions of arts and crafts. To create such products, you will need a minimum of tools and materials. Making spoons with your own hands is a great opportunity to hone basic carving skills and get a better feel for how wood and carving tools behave. You can experiment with the shape and size of the spoon, as well as the design of its handle, creating a unique utensil that is not only decorative, but also functional.
In our material, we will tell you in detail how to make a spoon with your own hands, introduce you to the basic carving techniques and answer current questions regarding manufacturing. wooden utensils.
What are wooden spoons made of?
What wood is best for carving wooden utensils? This important question excites all novice carvers. For cutting spoons best fit blanks from hard, but not prickly hardwood - aspen, ash, maple, birch, elm, walnut, cherry or maple.
Beginner carvers it is better to use lime. This wood is softer and lighter, has a uniform density and is well planed in all directions. For gaining experience and practicing basic carving skills, this is the most suitable material. Among other things, linden products are not prone to warping and do not emit tannins.
Coniferous trees unsuitable for the manufacture of spoons because of its high resin content and characteristic odor. Also avoid exotic tropical woods such as teak, which can be toxic.
As a blank, you can use planks or split the whole deck-ridge into small pieces. The first option is more practical, the second is more traditional. The orientation of the wood fibers in the blank determines the symmetry of the pattern of the bowl of the spoon, as shown in the photo.
A set of basic tools
To make a wooden spoon with your own hands you will need minimum set simple tool:
- Knife. For wood carving, it is better to use the Bogorodsk knife. Its two-sided sharpening makes it equally convenient to work both “on your own” and “on yourself”, and a narrow nose makes it possible to cut wood along internal lines.
- Spoon cutter (staple). This is a chisel with a sharp bend, designed for scraping wood in recesses and processing the inner walls when carving dishes. An alternative to a spoon cutter can be a wide cranberry or an ordinary semicircular chisel.
- straight chisel- used for even cutting of solid wood from the workpiece.
- Clamp- necessary for convenient fixation of a piece of wood.
- File for roughing and sanding paper of different grits (320, 180 and 120 grit) for perfect sanding of the product.
- Stichel- a thin steel cutter, for creating decorative carvings on the handle.
How to carve a wooden spoon: step by step guide
- Using the template, transfer the top and side view drawing to wooden blank. Please note that the orientation of the wood fibers is longitudinal, in this case the spoon will have maximum strength.
- Having fixed the workpiece with a clamp, proceed to the rough formation of the bowl. For these purposes, a spoon cutter is used, but you can also confine yourself to an ordinary semicircular chisel or a wide cranberry. Wood is sampled in the direction of the fibers. When deepening the bowl, do not forget that you need to leave a small thickness allowance for fine trimming and grinding.
It is much more convenient to gouge a bowl on a rectangular workpiece, since the piece of wood is rigidly fixed and maintains a stable position.
- When the recess is formed, you can start cutting off the excess array in the horizontal and vertical plane, following the top and side contours. To do this, it is most convenient to use a jigsaw or band saw, but if you wish, you can perform all the manipulations with a straight chisel or a hacksaw.
- Using a Bogorodsk knife, we cut off the convex part of the spoon. With a wide chisel, we give the bowl a perfectly even rounded shape. With the help of a knife and a chisel, we work out the shape of the handle.
- Using a spoon cutter, finish trimming the bowl and carefully align its edges, as shown in the picture.
- Grinding is carried out in two or three passes, each time reducing the grain size of the abrasive.
Advice!
When in contact with water, even a perfectly sanded surface can begin to pile. Raised pile does not spoil the appearance of the spoon, but is unpleasant in the mouth. Therefore, if you plan to use your own hand-made dishes for their intended purpose, you can solve this problem in the old proven way. After grinding, the spoon is wetted and thoroughly dried, passing again with a fine-grained abrasive. This procedure is repeated two or three times.
Our version of making a spoon is more of an adapted technique. It is designed to be used modern instrument, which, although it simplifies the workflow, but at the same time moves away from centuries old traditions carving art.
The secrets of the original Russian carving of a wooden spoon - see the video below:
How to cover a wooden spoon for food?
The final touch of creating a wooden spoon is its processing with a finishing compound. And here, as a rule, many questions arise. If you cut out a decorative spoon, then everything is simple: it can be painted with paint, applied with any varnish or waxed. With products that are planned to be used for their intended purpose, everything is more complicated. When choosing a composition for impregnation, it is important that it be practical and safe.
In the Russian tradition, they used and continue to use for processing wooden spoons. This impregnation is environmentally friendly, has antibacterial properties, emphasizes the texture of wood, and is easy to apply. But it will have to be updated periodically. However, using raw linseed oil as a finish, over time, it can begin to transfer an unpleasant rancid smell to food.
A more practical solution is to use special mineral oils to finish wooden utensils. This impregnation gives the surface water repellency, while it does not form a film - the pores remain open and the wood continues to breathe. Mineral oils do not affect the taste of food and are more persistent.
About practicality and food safety finishing compositions we spoke in detail in our .
prophet 16-09-2011 10:32
For curly cutting?
serge-vv 16-09-2011 10:33
cut spoons.
Geka13 16-09-2011 10:39
I'll be very surprised if
What is the complexity of the issue? such a problem to bend the blade?
The question is not correct.
Ily_a 16-09-2011 10:40
anatoly 16-09-2011 11:41
You take an arch support from shoes or boots. You heat it on a burner, you bend it as it should. You warm again until dark cherries and into the water. You dip it in oil and again on the burner, when the oil burns, you cool it in the air. Sharpen and the knife is ready. Somewhere like that.
Respectfully
alex-wolf 16-09-2011 11:59
quote: Originally posted by Ily_a:
buy ready and all. there are ours there are Morovskie.
+1
http://www.missouritrading.com/images/k503.jpg
alex-wolf 16-09-2011 12:17
quote: Originally posted by i_vb:
Why so far
We are not looking for easy ways
13mm 16-09-2011 12:31
50 bucks for a crooked knife!!!?
I'm wondering if I heat the knife on the stove burner until it's red enough to bend it? I have a piece of a quick saw - can it be bent at all?
I have not seen such knives for sale in our country. I saw sets of chisels with mushroom-shaped handles, but there are no such knives. Can they be in art merchandise?
ok62g 16-09-2011 12:40
I've been cutting spoons for a long time. And aerobatics is considered when the spoon is made without the use of sandpaper. "Licked" with a cutting tool. And of course, we are not talking about linden or alder. Khokhloma is a souvenir and nothing more. Real spoons are cut from pear, cherry, walnut. (Then they are protected only with oil)
And therefore, the material of the arch support type is clearly not enough. My entire set consists of forged - spring steel. And welded - the cut bearing cage is welded onto a bar with a diameter of 10mm. When sharpening, the descent is removed from the inside and always from the butt to zero.
I forgot to say that for convenience I put on a larger handle - two hundred or three hundred millimeters. It's more convenient to work.
Zuzamod 16-09-2011 13:12
I took a piece of non-hardened powder iron, bent it as I needed and took it to the thermist for hardening. then stripped off the ribbon and that's it.
ladikanton 16-09-2011 13:26
I have a piece of a quick saw - can it be bent at all?
At home - no. The quick cutter is designed to work at high temperatures, which will not affect its hardness.
The option with bearings, it seems to me, is optimal. A familiar wood carver used to make cutters from engravers.
Metrologist 16-09-2011 14:08
quote: Then they are protected only with oil
Maybe a little off topic, but it’s very interesting with what kind of oil and how. It is possible in a personal.
Ily_a 16-09-2011 14:12
quote: Originally posted by 13mm:
50 bucks for a crooked knife!!!?
well, the fic knows, I took a Morovsky at the Arsenal for like 650 rubles. bye bye
650 seems not expensive... There are Tatyankas at the opening day, why didn't I ask.
look here http://www.tatianka.ru/goods/tatianka-tools/
here
http://www.tatianka.ru/goods/tatianka-tools/page-2/?id=502
although of course this may not be quite right, but I didn’t dig in detail on the site there.
without a tool, it seems to me to bother self-manufacturing the stamestok is heavy.
C_Cat 16-09-2011 16:17
quote: The bearing option seems to be the best.
For it is better not to invent and reinvent the wheel is not worth it. I had to try to cut spoons under the supervision of a cabinetmaker. So he has these incisors different sizes bearings only. And polished to a mirror.
HarryA 16-09-2011 17:06
quote: 50 bucks for a crooked knife!!!?
quote: I took Morovsky at the Arsenal for 650 like rubles
Mdya-a-a
And I can do that
current without a handle, say rubles for 500
ok62g 16-09-2011 18:18
I answer the Metrologist, as well as the whole honest company, about oil protection.
There are two options. If the spoon was cut for yourself, friends, relatives - then - just sunflower oil. When sauteing onions, vegetables, use a new spoon five, seven times ... For fishing, it’s good if garlic was also present in the oil, but this is not for everybody. Moisten the stalk with oil several times and let it soak into the structure of the tree.
If the spoon is for sale, we go the longer way, but no less and no more correct. We lay out the spoons, and three-quarters pour into them linseed oil pharmacy. leave for a day. Then we smear everything that is left on the back of the scoop and the handle. The next day you need to wipe with a canvas. Put on a shelf and forget about a month. It may not happen once in a while. Then a small piece of soft wood is taken. You can linden or alder. And diligently rub the spoon with this piece, getting a marketable appearance. It is precisely the wooden sheen that appears.
Metrologist 16-09-2011 20:48
Thanks for the answer!
sergey9907 16-09-2011 21:06
I have an extra such cutter at home, it lies unnecessarily, upon arrival home I can prop it up.
And I'm on vacation
Sincerely!
Rall 16-09-2011 21:08
interesting, subscribe
Max Boroda 16-09-2011 21:10
quote: current without a handle, say rubles for 500
How can I order multiple pieces? different diameters? for 400-500, what really ...
Max Boroda 16-09-2011 21:12
quote:
don't sell?
RashchektaI 16-09-2011 21:42
I can change, write in a personal
Max Boroda 16-09-2011 21:49
quote: I can change, write in a personal
I wrote to "soap"
Maniacus 16-09-2011 23:06
I want that knife too!
YoNas_Kaki 17-09-2011 12:49
The law of paired cases - it is worth thinking about something or doing something, it will certainly happen to another person in the near future or pop up somewhere in the form of a discussion. Cool!
Just a couple of weeks ago, I started cutting (and almost finished, interrupted due to piled up cases) kuksu! I wrote off in PM with Igor77, consulted, looked for a spoon cutter or cranberries ...
In short, the most low price on Morovian spoon cutters in Moscow - at Paradox. They are, as far as I remember, official dealer Seas in Russia. If there is such an interest, then maybe we can ask Uncle Yura to fit a batch to the next exhibition? .. The cutting properties of Mora personally only please me and I would gladly purchase their spoon cutter.
And here is my unfinished kuksa and what I cut it with:
This tool was in an old (beginning of the second half of the last century, it seems) set, with which my mother used to cut something in her youth. It has similar nozzles and other profiles - square, triangular, etc. His handle is FUCK!!! I knocked my hand down in the trash in two hours. But I really wanted to and I did not stop!
C_Cat 17-09-2011 02:10
quote: made today for fun, haven't sharpened yet really
the angle is not the same, the tail needs to be raised with a carrot!
Here Jonas is correct and the result is visible.
Max Boroda 17-09-2011 07:56
quote: Since there is such an interest, can we ask Uncle Yura to fit a game to the next exhibition?
How about being different? Not living in the venues of such exhibitions? ))
Val13 17-09-2011 10:19
I tried to work like this, to be honest, I was not too impressed. In this regard, I liked the homemade quick cutter much more, shaped like a small coffee spoon. All edges are sharpened, except for a narrow neck. Here it is a pleasure to rake them. And it is not difficult to make from a rectangular bar (blank turning tool for metal). I'll try to post pictures of it in the next few days.
Chump 17-09-2011 23:28
one comrade cuts out the kuksu with a sharpened ring wrench at 17. as an option.
Max Boroda 17-09-2011 23:47
once you and the material can be tortured with a sharpened spoon. I want not for torment - for business.
Svir 19-09-2011 11:52
I made a knife from a ring spanner - I didn’t like it, it’s more convenient with cranberries.
Maybe things are different with spoons, but for kuksa, cranberries are better, at least for me.
YoNas_Kaki 19-09-2011 16:23
Svir, I saw in "You-Pipe" how you cut kuksu with cranberries:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d78rcuH8vb0
Very useful video! It just makes me sick to even just look and think about how this ... pardon my French ... long and bent huyabra will jump off and kaaaaaak! .. Yes, all this is also on my knees ... The thing that is in my pictures, like a spoon cutter and a knife from a key, there is simply nowhere to go - you work with them in a small arc, in fact, only with a brush. I really liked my picker. Only now it is very small, that's why I want a bigger spoon cutter.
By the way, do you cut from dry or raw suvel on the roller? At first I started from dry, but it is like a curb in terms of hardness !!! Then it blew up and I poured water into the already dug hole. When wet, it cuts like cheese...
Ily_a 19-09-2011 17:24
quote: Originally posted by YoNas_Kaki:
Svir, I saw in "You-Pipe" how you cut kuksu with cranberries:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d78rcuH8vb0
oh, I broke two cranberries and threw this thing away - I ran out of cranberries about soaking this business - I wound it on a mustache (well, or on a gyrus, to be more precise)
Svir 19-09-2011 17:24
It is dangerous to cut only at the very beginning, as soon as a small hole is formed, it is no longer so scary. you cut from the edge inward and can only jump off to the bottom of the kuksa. In any case, of course, you need to be careful, however, as with any cutting tool.
In the video, I cut the "dried" burl)))) i.e. for a knife handle it is damp, I would not put it like that, but not quite raw either - about 6 months of natural drying (not boiled). I also cut it from dry suveli - it’s more difficult, of course, by an order of magnitude.
YoNas_Kaki 19-09-2011 18:11
quote: I broke two cranberries like that and gave it up - I ran out of cranberries
Thank you, SCREAM!!! Like - I don’t cook food for myself at home - the dishes are clean cum! ..
quote: In the video, I cut the "withered" cap)))) i.e. for a knife handle it is damp, I would not put it like that, but not quite raw either - about 6 months of natural drying (not boiled).
Clear. My suvelka has lain on the closet for three (or more? ..) years - PObble!!! It took me about 1.5 hours to gnaw out the first 50 ml. And then I finished to wet it and the remaining 200 ml I gnawed out somewhere else in 2 hours. So the water rocks! Ischo would have a more powerful knife ...
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