Toilet cistern repair and replacement. Toilet flush mechanism: device, principle of operation, overview of various designs

Toilet cisterns can be made from different materials, can be various shapes and differ in the method of installation, but their principle of operation is practically the same, and the design of all drain tanks does not differ very much. Let's look at what types of such mechanisms are.

According to the installation method, drain tanks are divided into only three types:

1. The tank of the compact system, which is installed directly on the toilet bowl itself;
2. A wall-mounted cistern, most often used in conjunction with wall-hung toilets;
3. A hanging cistern that is mounted at a certain height and connected to the toilet bowl through a drain pipe.

Features of the mechanism for supplying water to the drain tank

All drain tanks have only two main structural elements - a water supply mechanism and a drain mechanism. The water collection system can be made in two versions:

• with side feed;
• with bottom feed.

The first are float valves designed for tanks, the water to which is supplied to the upper side. These models are produced mainly by domestic firms, they are simple and low cost, but they create a lot of noise in the process of collecting water.

Scheme of the device of the toilet cistern

Such a valve includes two main parts - a body with a membrane in it, which closes and opens the water supply to the tank, as well as a float connected to the body by means of a lever. Thus, lowering and rising along with the water level in the tank, the float sets in motion the lever, which in turn acts on the stem with the membrane fixed on it, opening and blocking the access of water to the tank through the valve.

The mechanism with the bottom water supply is a little more expensive, but it also works much quieter. This system is somewhat more complex, in which the float moves along a special vertical rod, although the principle of operation itself has not changed. The mechanism for shutting off the water supply is actuated by means of a special rod connected to the float, which is also a water level limiter in the tank.

How to adjust the amount of water in the tank

When installing any of these systems, in order to save or increase the flushing force, the amount of water taken in can be changed. Let's tell you what steps you need to take to do this:

The device of the drain mechanism of the toilet bowl

The cistern drain system can be top or side. The latter, however, will not be considered, since it implies the presence of a hanging tank, which is now practically out of use. But upper system the drain is used on almost all models of modern toilet bowls.

Drain mechanism for toilet

The procedure for installing the toilet cistern (video)

In the process, you should not have any difficulties, since everything is done very simply and quickly enough:

Possible malfunctions during the operation of the drain tank

1. Water is not supplied to the tank or its supply is not blocked. The culprits for this are either a water supply valve or a float. Floats are made either in the form of a hollow cylinder or an inverted glass. In the first case, the damaged float cannot be repaired, and the problem is eliminated only by replacing the float or the entire valve. With a float in the form of an inverted glass, only one trouble can occur - it is overgrown with mud and various deposits, because of which it starts to work poorly. In this case, it should simply be cleaned.

   Video

2. If the float is ok, but water does not stop flowing into the tank- the cause is a worn valve membrane. Usually a spare membrane comes with another float. If not available, it can be purchased separately. The protective cap is removed from the valve, after which the old membrane is removed and replaced with a new one. It is also useful to clean the small hole in the valve through which water enters the tank. If it is clogged, then, accordingly, tank stops filling or this process is extremely slow.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the toilet cistern, so if necessary, everyone can easily install or repair it.

The statistics are merciless: every Russian family has encountered breakdowns of the toilet cistern at least once. At the same time, in most cases, you can repair or eliminate the leak with your own hands in a couple of minutes.

This article will help you understand the device of this essential element in home.
Content:

• Drain tank device;
• How to adjust the water level in the toilet tank;
• Major breakdowns and their repair;
  • Constantly flowing water - correct the situation;
  • Stop valve repair;
  • Leak at the junction of the tank with the toilet.

The toilet bowl is a plumbing device that not a single city apartment (and most country houses) can do without.

It is used constantly, and therefore any malfunction, and even more so a breakdown, causes serious inconvenience. In most cases, you can set up and repair the toilet bowl without the help of a specialist.

You just need to understand how it works, what the individual elements in the drain tank are responsible for - and then it immediately becomes clear what is the cause of possible problems.

Drain tank device

Roughly speaking, the toilet bowl consists of two parts - a bowl with a sewer hole and a tank for draining water.

It is in the cistern that the entire toilet mechanism is located, all the elements that drive it. By pressing a button or operating a lever, we make a simple mechanical system inside the tank.

As a result, water enters the bowl, and all waste is washed down the drain.

Toilets come in different sizes and types of drains.

In some models, when you press a lever or button, the tank is completely emptied, splashing all the water down. In other tanks, there are two buttons: depending on the needs, you can drain more or less water. There are low-lying cisterns that are attached directly to the toilet, others are hung on the wall and connected to the bowl with a flush pipe, and others are mounted in the wall (this saves space in the restroom).

The drain system can also vary: some toilets supply water in a constant direction, in others, when draining, the water changes its direction.

The second option is considered more convenient and hygienic, although there is more noise from such a device.
Nevertheless, the internal arrangement of tanks of any type is approximately the same. And, having understood the principles of operation of one, if necessary, you can inspect and repair any other toilet tank.
Internal organization the drain tank consists of several elements:

• flush button;
• filling valve with float;
• drain fittings for the toilet bowl.

When you press the button in the drain tank, the valve opens, and the water is emptied into the bowl, flushing the contents of the toilet.

At the same time, the liquid level in the tank becomes lower - and the float reacts to this, falling down along with the water. Reacting to the "indications" of the float, the filling system is activated - and the water is again poured into the tank to the desired level.
The toilet cistern leaks quite often, this is mainly due to poor-quality fittings (insides), cracked seals and other minor troubles.

Water level in the tank: how to adjust?

One of the most frequent malfunctions in the work of the drain tank - this is a constant flow of water into the toilet.

This means that the water level is too high - the system has to constantly release excess liquid.

It also happens the other way around: the drain is inconvenient to use, because there is too little water in the tank all the time.
As a rule, the problem lies in the float - perhaps it is simply skewed.

In this case, the problem is solved quickly and easily - the float needs to be corrected.

The float in the drain tank is, as a rule, of two varieties: on a brass lever and on a plastic lever with special screw. To adjust the float on the brass lever, you just need to gently raise and lower it several times until it becomes clear in which position the mechanism will work optimally.

Raising the float raises the water level, lowering it lowers it.
As for the plastic lever, here the level is adjusted by turning the screw (or with a plastic ratchet, with which the lever is installed in correct position).

Repair of a drain tank: main breakdowns and their elimination

However, the malfunction drain system does not always depend on the position of the float.

Sometimes it is necessary to understand the problem in more detail - but to implement simple repair the internal mechanism of the tank is still possible with your own hands.
There are the most common problems in the drain system:

• the tank leaks at the junction with the toilet bowl (does not hold water and is constantly filled);
• water is constantly flowing into the toilet from the tank.

As a rule, the causes of the problem are the following:

• float failure;
• breakage of the shut-off valve;
• poor sealing of pipes.

The toilet tank is leaking: what to do?
If water oozes into the toilet bowl from the tank all the time, first you need to make sure that the problem cannot be solved by simply adjusting the float.
If you tried to move and adjust the lever, it still does not hold water on the tank, then you need to inspect the float itself: it is likely that a hole has formed in it or a special membrane has become unusable.

The easiest thing to do when you find a hole in a float is to simply cover it up with a plastic "patch" or wrap the float in a bag.

Water will stop getting inside, and the problem will be exhausted for some time. However, at the first opportunity, it is better to replace the float - such a handicraft repair is unlikely to last long.
How to change the float?

• first of all, it is necessary to shut off the water entering the toilet tank, and then completely empty the tank;
• after that, the pipe is removed through which water entered the tank, and the damaged float is removed, and a new one is put in its place;
• the float is set in the desired position, after which you can put the pipe in place, start the water supply again and make sure that the problem is solved.

Stop valve repair
There are two ways to fix the breakdown of the locking device (toilet fittings) in the tank: replace only the membrane inside the mechanism or change the valve completely.
To change the membrane from the tank, it is also necessary to remove all the water from the tank, disassemble the shut-off valve, remove the protective cap and pull out the membrane itself.

Theoretically, it can be simply washed. However, experts recommend just a replacement, since the membrane is generally " weak point» drain system, and the first malfunction will surely be followed by others.
If a stop valve needs to be replaced entirely, then for a start, the water supply to the toilet tank is also blocked.

After that, the liquid remaining in it is poured out of the tank, the lever is first disconnected from the mechanism, and then unscrewed from water pipe the valve itself, fixed with fixing nuts.
In its place, a new fitting for the tank is mounted, after which the water is turned on, the toilet tank is refilled and the float is set in the correct position.
The cistern is leaking at the junction with the toilet
If water oozes from the place where the tank connects to the toilet bowl, then most likely it is a poor seal.

As a rule, in this case, it is enough to tighten the bolts with which the tank is attached to the toilet, or change rubber gaskets- they may have dried out.
It happens that the gasket in the place where the tank is attached to the toilet comes across with a manufacturing defect. This is not very good news - however, you can simply smear it with a sealing compound, and the leak will be eliminated.

Condensation on the toilet bowl causes many problems - but you can get rid of it only by properly organizing the movement of air in the toilet, i.e.

check ventilation holes.
Summing up, we can say that the toilet tank is a simple device that works according to the simplest laws of mechanics. All malfunctions that occur in its operation are eliminated quickly and easily, and it is not even always necessary to buy new parts.

Thus, having understood the work of your drain tank, you can no longer spend money and time on plumbers, solving all the problems yourself.

How a drain tank with a button works: principle of operation and device

Ever since the time ancient rome presence in the house plumbing devices considered a sign of civilization. A special place was occupied by sewerage and “ latrine”, which today successfully replaces the toilet with comfortable toilet. We are so accustomed to comfort that slightest change in the operation of the toilet and its tank leads to confusion and excitement.

Therefore, when choosing a model for our home, we give it to the most reliable designs, which include toilet bowls with push-button flush cisterns.

Toilet cistern device with a button: design features

The cistern device with a button of all models has common features.

They differ only in the material of manufacture, price, quality and features of the working parts. The tanks operate according to the same principle, the differences are only in the mechanism, which can be:

• one-button;
• two-button;
• with a dual device.

The most modern model is a two-button system that saves water when flushing.

Pressing one button - a full flush, in which all the water contained in it flows out of the tank. Pressing two buttons - draining only part of the volume of water.

Models may also differ in flush features. In some, when descending into the toilet, the water comes directly from the cistern, moving in one direction.

In others, the flow of water is divided, flushing is carried out with different parties. Such tanks are considered the most effective, as they cover largest area flush, but also more noisy.

So that when buying this device, you need to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow the toilet bowl flush tank with a button works, and to know what its device consists of.

The mechanism of operation of any models is quite simple and consists in collecting a certain amount of water from the water supply and lowering it into the sewer through the toilet.

The principle of operation of a toilet flush tank with a button is a water seal system, which consists of a float, levers and seals.

Pressing the button on the lid activates the water release mechanism, which is the main purpose of this plumbing fixture.

The principle of operation of the drain mechanism

By pressing the button located on the lid, we force the tank system to start working.

The device of the toilet cistern with a button, the diagram of which is shown on picture below, is directly related to the filling of the container. Before starting work, the tank is in standby mode.

The tank already has the required volume of water, which is limited by the level of the float. Water in the tank is kept from flowing out by a special pear, which is made of elastic and durable rubber.

Do-it-yourself toilet cistern repair with a button

Pressing the button puts pressure on the lever-pull, which pushes the pear, thereby opening the drain.

When we release the button, the pear gradually begins to return to its place.

When assembling the internal filling of the sanitary device, this feature of the functioning of the pear should be taken into account. Its sharp return to its original position gives a short-term and incomplete drain. With proper assembly and adjustment, the process of lowering the pear is slow, it is completely hollow inside.

With the filling of the tank with water, the lifting force of this pear decreases, and at the end it takes its original position, sticking to the saddle.

Flush tank mechanism with button

The drain tank functions due to the operation of two systems: collecting water and draining it.

The first is called the inlet, and the mechanism of its action is quite simple. It lets water into the tank at the moment when there is no liquid in it. Filling goes up to a certain level, which is set by the reinforcement correction.

Armature may have different kind, but its principle of operation is the same - float. By adjusting the level of the float, you can adjust the degree of filling of the tank.

Outlet fittings, the purpose of which is to drain water, help to keep control over the drain process.

Its design during operation can take several positions. In some models, the outlet valve can operate in two modes: economy and standard.

In addition, the outlet valve mechanism has an emergency drain function, which can be used in case of emergency.

If some components of a release stop working in desired mode, then you have to change the entire armature.

Problems in the operation of toilets mainly arise due to failures in the intake and exhaust systems. Therefore, in order to troubleshoot, you need to find out which of the systems has stopped working, either by replacing individual components, or using a complete set.

The most common breakdowns

• Water enters the tank very slowly.

  The problem is caused by a clogged membrane, the fix is ​​to clean the inlet of debris and dirt. But for this it is necessary to carefully dismantle the reinforcement, and then also carefully return it to its original position.

• There is too much liquid in the tank, up to the overflow.

  The reason lies in the incorrect setting of the float level. The solution to the problem is to adjust the float armature to such an extent that the float drops.

• The float arms are broken. The reason is the wear of the mechanism, such a malfunction cannot be repaired, so the solution is to replace the fittings.

Drain tanks with a button - the most common and comfortable to use plumbing fixtures. Knowing the device and the principle of operation of drain tanks will allow you to choose the most convenient and reliable models for your home.

How to fix a leaky toilet with a button on the cistern

If a broken tank lets water through, this causes not only inconvenience in the operation of the structure.

An additional cost item will be a large amount of leaking water. In more serious cases, such problems lead to a flood in the apartment.

Plumbing device

Before you fix a toilet that flows with a button, you need to deal with the entire device.

The design of a conventional toilet household purpose consists of a bowl and a drain tank. The last device can be attached to the toilet step, mounted separately on the wall or walled in on a special frame.

The drain tank works according to this principle:

1. when the drain button is pressed, the shut-off valve rises;
2. water gets free current into the cavity of the toilet bowl;
3. through evenly distributed holes under the rim of the bowl, the water flow washes the entire cavity along the perimeter;
4. when all the water from the tank is gone, another valve opens, letting in pressure from the supply pipe cold water for an apartment;
5. The level of collected water in the tank is regulated by a float.

Under the lid of the tank there is an armature of the entire device: a float to control the level of collected water, seals and levers for supplying and cutting off the water flow.

A shut-off valve is responsible for supplying water.

It is attached to the way of connecting the hose for supplying water to the tank. The system of its work includes a float and a membrane.

Tanks with economical water consumption suggest the presence of two buttons in their device - for small and large drains. The mechanism of operation does not differ from standard tanks.

Preparing plumbing for repairs

At the first stage, the tap with the water supply to the tank is turned off.

Depending on the built-in taps, it is possible to deprive the entire apartment of water or block the flow only to the tank. If the water constipation mechanism is damaged, then there is a risk of organizing a flood in the apartment.

At the second stage, open the lid of the tank. Here you need to carefully consider the existing latches. If the structure is broken by force, then it will be difficult to find a similar cover (in plumbing stores they sell fully assembled kits, not individual components).

Before you start repairing a toilet bowl device that flows with a flush button, you need to prepare the necessary tools:

open-end wrenches of several sizes;

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• tape with an adhesive backing for insulation.

Elimination of a permanent leak

Any model of the tank is equipped with a system that collects water and a trigger.

If the tank is not filled to the right level, water constantly flows into the bowl or even overflows over the top, then the problem lies in the systems for accumulating or draining water.

A possible problem lies in the pear, which does not fit snugly enough to the drain hole. In this case, a small load is hung on the pear.

Water does not enter the tank

This problem occurs when debris enters the narrow part of the valve device.

First you need to drain all the water from the tank. Completely remove the valve with lever and float.

Toilet cistern repair - malfunctions and their elimination

Then you can see the clogged hole. Through this passage, water is drawn into the tank. Debris can be cleared thin wire or a sewing needle.

On the inlet fitting, the valve is slightly unscrewed and the inside is washed with a stream of water. If, after removing the blockage, the water flows without obstacles, then you can screw the latch back and assemble the entire mechanism.

Troubleshooting a push-button cistern

The tank button is responsible for lowering the water into the bowl itself. After the draining process is completed, the float remains at the bottom of the device.

The stop valve also comes into this position, opening the hole for water to enter. As the water collects in the tank, the float rises.

Under this action, the lever begins to move.

Rising to the desired level, the lever and the float device take a certain position. In this case, the shut-off valve tightly covers the outlet of the nozzle and the water stops collecting.

If the toilet bowl with the drain button on the lid is leaking, then you need to do the following:

1. Locate the retaining ring located around the drain button.
2. Press the button all the way in and unscrew the plastic stopper.
3. Remove the cover and start repairing.

The locking devices of the buttons are made of plastic.

redundant mechanical impact contact with this item may damage the device.

Water can flow in a continuous stream and constantly flows from the installed tank to the toilet step with a button. In this case, you need to check the position of the float. To do this, open the tank lid and align the floating element.

Otherwise, water may constantly leak into the bowl due to an open hole in the drain pipe.

You can check the version by clicking on the pear. In the event of a jet stop, the cause has been clarified. They solve the problem by weighting the pear - by hanging an additional load.

In the event of a failure of the rubber bulb in the shut-off valve device, the tightness of the entire tank structure is violated.

The solution to the problem is to replace the damaged element. To do this, the float is brought into top position and fix in this state. Unscrew the connecting nut from the container and remove the mechanism. Remove the worn pear from the valve and install a new one.

A new pear should be chosen as softly as possible.

In this case, the dimensions of the products must match.

Check the fixing bolts for the pear.

If they have become unusable, then you should purchase new ones and install them:

• water is completely removed from the tank;
• between the valve near the float and the liner there is a union nut that must be unscrewed and removed;
• the ear-shaped latches of the tank to the toilet shelf are unscrewed;
• slightly tilting the tank back, carefully remove the rubber connecting layer between the container and the installed toilet bowl;
• remove damaged bolts;
• the faience area under the pear is well cleaned of the formed plaque and dirt; the shelf and top of the tank are also washed out;
• if installed backwards old pear, then silicone must be applied to its surface for a tighter connection with the hole;
• all elements of the tank are installed in their place, and fixed with bolts;
• the connecting cuff is installed in its place;
• water is run into the tank several times in a row to fully check the result of the work.

If only one fixing bolt has become unusable, then you still need to buy both.

These elements must be the same in structure and length.

Overflow problem

If a water leak through the overflow hole is detected in the tank, and restoring the position of the lever does not help, then check the condition of the fixing pins. An unusable element can be replaced with a piece of copper wire. The thickness of the broken and new elements must match.

If the hole where the pin was placed is no longer round, then the valve will have to be changed.

It is important to purchase a completely identical new item.

Toilet flush column: varieties, tank equipment, types of mechanisms, installation instructions, malfunctions

It is impossible now to imagine any apartment or house without a bathroom. Soviet models toilet bowls most often had metal components, they served for a long time and efficiently. AT modern models most parts are made of plastic. The drain column for the toilet bowl is an integral part of it.

Despite the simplicity of the device, it fails quite often.

If you study at least a little the device of the drain tank, then it will not be particularly difficult to install or repair it yourself.

Varieties of drain columns

The range of this equipment in plumbing stores is quite large.

To purchase a quality model that will serve you for a long time, you need to understand well and know how they differ from each other.

The very first thing that immediately catches your eye is the material from which the tanks are made, they are:

• Cast iron.
• Plastic.
• Faience.

Plastic drain column

Cast iron models are very reliable, but they cannot boast of their attractiveness.

Plastic speakers are very easy to install, but they also fail quickly. Most of all, faience cisterns are represented, they combine several qualities at once: reliability, ease of installation, a wide choice of shapes and even colors.

One drain column for the toilet is different from the other and the release valve. There are two of them:

If the trigger device is located at the top on the tank, then a special button is also provided.

Those columns that are attached at a certain height have a lateral location of the trigger. Everyone, probably, saw the attached rope or chain.

The trigger mechanism for both types is: mechanical and manual.

If the mechanism is manual, then you can always adjust the amount of water used.

Drain tank kit

Despite the wide variety of drain columns, there is no fundamental difference in the device, each must have:

• The valve responsible for the supply of water.
• Drain design.
• Overflow.

Drain column kit

The main function of the filling valve is to dose water into the column.

In most designs, the water level indicator is a float. In older models, this mechanism was made of brass, quite often they are made from it even now.

Technology does not stand still, so now the designs are different, but the general mechanism of work has not changed.

By the name itself, the purpose of the drain mechanism becomes clear. It can be implemented in different ways, whether it's pressing a button or pulling a string. Recently, tanks have become widespread, which have an economical drain, when, after pressing, not all the water is poured out, but only half of it.

An overflow must be mandatory to insure against accidental overflow of the tank. Usually it is combined with a drain mechanism.

Flush mechanism types

The drain mechanism of the tank can be of several varieties:

1. Bell.
2. Corrugation.
3. Pear.

The first variety is considered the oldest and can currently be found in tanks that are mounted high and made of cast iron.

A chain or rope is attached to such tanks, we pull it and thereby raise the bell with a lever, which is represented by a cork with a gasket.

Draining

Through the drain, water passes into the pipe.

Then the bell is lowered, a discharged space is created, which sucks out the remaining water. Interestingly, such designs are very reliable, from time to time it is only necessary to change the gasket, and this can be done with your own hands.

A drain mechanism in the form of a corrugation can be found much less frequently.

The reason is that it has little strength, so it becomes unusable very quickly.

The last variety in the form of a pear was previously often located on the wall, but now such drain mechanisms have migrated along with the cisterns to the toilet itself. The mechanism of operation of such a device is quite clear: a rubber pear clogs drainer until you move it from its place by pulling the string.

Modern models have a radically changed mechanism in the form of a pear, but the principle of operation has practically remained the same.

Installation and appearance also changed significantly.

Drain column installation process

If we consider this process, then the installation of the tank consists of several stages:

Tank mounting methods

It turns out that the drain column can be installed in different ways. Installation instructions differ depending on the location of the tank.

The first option provides for the location of the tank almost under the ceiling.

It will connect to the toilet through a long pipe. Such designs are currently not very common, but they provide the maximum water pressure when draining.

The second way we see most often.

It is used in almost every apartment. In this case, the tank is on the toilet itself. The convenience of this location lies in the fact that everything is within direct reach. If necessary, you can easily dismantle or replace worn parts.

In the third option, the tank is built into the wall itself. This design has a significant drawback - if the tank breaks down, then you will have to practically disassemble the wall.

But there are no minuses without pluses, this will be especially noticeable if such a tank is in a combined bathroom. Due to the built-in, free space is freed up.

Drain tank breakage

If you open the cover of the drain column, you will be able to see everything that is the main thing in this whole structure.

When a breakdown occurs, it is this valve that fails.

A common problem that almost everyone encounters after a while of operation of the drain column is the flow of water into the tank without interruption. This can happen for several reasons:

1. The float arm is a little warped. It will be enough to put the lever in horizontal position and everything will be back to normal.
2. Float damaged.

   There is nothing left but to change the float.

3. The valve has failed. If repair is not possible, then you need to buy and install a new one.

Sometimes it happens that water constantly flows into the tank.

It can be concluded that the siphon membrane is damaged, and then it must be replaced in order to eliminate this problem.

If the levers become unusable, then it is almost impossible to repair them on your own, since most often they are made of plastic.

You just have to buy a new kit and install it.

If water leaks through the valve, then two reasons can cause such a nuisance:

1. It is necessary to replace the rubber membrane, which has become unusable. It is necessary to remove the part on which the gasket is located, to do this, turn it counterclockwise.
2. If a lot of debris accumulates under the valve, then this will also cause shortcomings in the work.

At runtime repair work it is necessary to turn off the water so that it does not interfere with the repair of the breakdown.

After all repair procedures are completed, you need to make sure that the overflow device is installed correctly.

Toilet cistern button: principle of operation, replacement, repair

In tanks with a side-mounted shut-off valve, for convenience, it is possible to mount it on both sides. There are two holes in the tank: one is free, and the locking mechanism is inserted into the other. If it becomes unusable, then the water will begin to flow directly onto the floor.

Drain columns with top water supply are distinguished by strong noise during the process of filling the tank.

But this problem can also be overcome. To do this, you can put a piece on the shut-off valve pipe rubber tube so that it reaches the very bottom. If there is a little time, desire, skills, then it is possible to ensure the efficient and uninterrupted functioning of the bathroom on your own.

Breakage of the drain tank is a problem that everyone has encountered. The first thing we do when we discover this trouble is to call the plumber. This is the right decision if you do not understand anything about plumbing and you do not have any tools in the house. But if your hands grow from the right place, and in the closet there is wrench, then why not try to repair the drain tank yourself? After all, doing repairs yourself, you save money and improve your skills.
How is the drain tank arranged, what kind of breakdowns does it have, and most importantly, to repair it? You will find answers to these questions in our article.

Before proceeding to action, you need to study a little theory and understand how the toilet drains. Any model has two main parts: a bowl that stands on the floor or is fixed on the wall, and a water tank on top. This container is called the "drain tank".

At the heart of the work of draining water is the principle of a water seal. When the lever (button) is pressed, the cork opens, and water is washed off into the riser by gravity.

If you remove the lid on the tank, you will find a mechanism for draining water. It consists of a float, a seal and levers. It is conditionally possible to divide the mechanism of the drain tank into two parts: the water collection system and the drain mechanism.

When the button is released, the drain hole closes and water begins to draw in. The float controls its level and closes the valve at the right time.

Of course, depending on the manufacturer, the design is slightly different, but the meaning remains the same.

Water collection system

The principle of operation of the filling fittings is simple: when the tank becomes empty, it starts the flow of water, when it is full, it stops. A float is required to determine the water level. If there is little or vice versa, a lot of water, you can adjust the desired level yourself. It is recommended to use a volume of 5-7 liters of water.
The fittings that regulate the flow of water can be of several types.

• With lateral water supply (fittings are located at the top). Basically, such a supply of water to the tank can be found in toilet bowls. Russian production. The mechanism is cheap, but very noisy. For more expensive models to reduce noise, they attach a tube that supplies water to the bottom.
Drain tank: side feed mechanism device
• With bottom water supply. This type can be found both on foreign models of toilet bowls, and on domestic ones. Thanks to the mechanism, the noise from the water is minimized.

Bottom feed to waste tank

Draining

Push button flush mechanism
The drain mechanism is started either by pressing a button or by pulling out the stem. The most popular push-button version with a lever, which is shown in the photo. In toilets with a hidden cistern, the button is located on the wall. Therefore, the repair wall hung toilet less convenient: all actions are carried out after removing the button through a small hole. The video shows the process of dismantling the fittings from the built-in tank (installation).

The button mechanism can be one- and two-mode. In a two-mode drain, there are two buttons: one drains the water completely, and the second - half. This allows you to save water if necessary. Also, a similar mechanism can be implemented with one button, when the drain depends on the degree of pressing.



Preparation for repair

First of all, let's examine the internal mechanism for defects. To do this, remove the top cover, usually it is fixed with a drain button. You need to either simply unscrew it, or pull out the button and unscrew the fastening screw.

Before repairing the drain tank, be sure to shut off the water supply.

Replacement and fastening of parts

After you open the lid, you will see several holes with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm for water supply (maybe only one). In one of them, filling fittings with a membrane valve will be fixed.

The membrane is very sensitive to water quality, so its service life depends on water filters. If there are no filters at all, then it is better to replace the mechanism with a Russian one with a stem valve.

Most often, the issue of repairing a toilet cistern can be solved by a complete replacement of parts. For expensive toilets, it is easy to find a repair kit with a sleeve and a membrane. On cheap models, it is more profitable to buy new fittings, they are not very expensive. The main thing is to choose when buying desired diameter pipes, usually they are 10, 15 mm, as well as 1/3 and ½ inch.




When replacing, you need to make a sealed joint, so put on before fastening sealing gasket. The fittings are pulled together with a tank nut. Tighten them slightly, otherwise cracks may appear.

Decorative plugs are inserted into the remaining free holes. If necessary, you can change the position of the water supply. If the plug is simply inserted into the hole until it clicks, and does not rest on the nut, then no seals are provided in it, so water will flow out in the event of a malfunction.

At the bottom of the tank are holes for attaching to the toilet. Fastening takes place on metal or plastic bolts. Bolts made of brass and stainless steel are best suited for fixing the toilet bowl. Of course, ordinary metal fasteners are stronger than plastic ones, but they quickly rust. Before fastening, washers and rubber gaskets must be put on.

In the center is the largest hole for draining water. The shut-off valve for the drain tank is fastened with a cap washer through the gasket.

Common drain tank failures

The most common failure is the continuous filling and leakage of water from the tank. The reason for this is the following factors:

• float tilt;
• the float mechanism does not work;
• loose shut-off valve, old rubber seal.

The easiest way to solve the first problem, because in this case the toilet will not even require repair of the drain tank - just open the lid and adjust the float. Also, sometimes the shut-off valve does not fit into place, it is also enough just to put it manually into the recess.

The next problem is that the water fills the tank to the limit and does not stop. To check the mechanism, lift the float up to the stop. If the water does not stop, then the float mechanism will need to be replaced.

And the last point is the old sealant. It is very simple to determine such a breakdown: you just need to press the valve with your hand. If the water stops, you will have to replace the seal. Also, sometimes this is due to the too low weight of the locking mechanism. In this case, weights are added inside to make it heavier.

Another one frequent breakdown associated with a worn float. Its tightness is broken, and it does not float well, so the water in the tank does not rise to the desired level. You will need to replace the fittings of the drain tank, but you can also fix the float with your own hands. To do this, its hole is sealed with sealant, glue, heated plastic or any other material at hand. You can also look into a plumbing store, perhaps there will be an analogue of this float.

Not very often, but there are such breakdowns with the tank as: leakage mounting bolts tank and failure of the water supply valve. To eliminate them, it is enough to change the gaskets and buy a new valve.

The video shows how to repair a toilet cistern with your own hands:

Usually, repairs come down to a maximum of replacing fittings, and this can be done on your own without calling a plumber. The main thing is to choose quality product and right size, and then the sound of dripping and gathering water will not interfere.

In order for the toilet bowl to serve for a long time and work without breakdowns, it is necessary to ensure its proper assembly and installation even during the installation of new plumbing. You should also make sure to use quality materials during installation and reliability of all connections and fasteners. Under these conditions, you will not need to repair the toilet cistern for many years.

Drain tank device

Enough simple design which consists of three main parts:

• containers;
• water supply valve with a shut-off float mechanism;
• devices for draining water from a tank.

The main elements of the tank valve device

All these parts may differ in the materials from which they are made, in design and in the principle of operation.

Fill valve malfunctions

Signs of valve failure are:

• water constantly flowing through the toilet;
• its complete absence;
• very slow tank filling.

Constantly flowing water indicates an overflow of the tank as a result of a violation of the adjustment of the filling valve or a failure of the float mechanism.

A more rare failure may be the wear of the sealing gasket that blocks the valve nozzle. In each of these cases, repairing the toilet cistern is not difficult.

Before proceeding with the adjustment of the float mechanism, it is necessary to check its serviceability. In the event of a violation of the sealing of the float or buoy device, it will simply sink and it is useless to talk about adjustment until it is replaced.

If the float is in good condition, then adjusting its position is carried out by changing the bend of the rocker, which is connected to the valve. The position of the buoy structure is adjusted by tightening the axle nut.

The float mechanism must be adjusted so that after filling the container to the overflow line, the valve is completely closed. This is achieved by several experimental attempts.

What if the water is constantly flowing?

The reason for such a constant leak in a small stream into the toilet may be damage to the sealing membrane at the junction of the drain siphon with the tank.

In this case, in order to repair the toilet cistern, it will be necessary to replace this gasket with a new one. But, before replacing, be sure to check correct connection of the push lever or the serviceability of the push button. Sometimes leaks are caused by improper operation or sticking on return.

The siphon membrane is located at the junction drain fittings and tank

To replace the sealing membrane:

• drain the water from the container;
• disconnect the siphon from the pressure lever or button and remove it;
• put a new gasket in place of the old seal;
• then install the siphon in place;
• attach it to a push lever or button and screw it tight clamping nut.

Check the operation of the flush tank after the repair. Most likely the leak will be fixed.

How to get rid of noise when filling the tank?

Most designs to reduce the level of water noise provide for the installation of a special downpipe, through which water is discharged to the bottom of the tank when filling.

First of all, check its installation. If the tube is asleep, then put it on the fitting near the filling hydraulic valve. In that case, such a tube is missing, then try to find the required diameter and install it.

Another way to get rid of loud noise when filling is to reduce the flow rate of the supplied liquid. This can be done by turning off the tap on the water connection line or by installing a narrowing washer on the hose fitting.

What to do if the drain tank does not fill with water?

The reason for the lack of water supply to the drain tank may be clogging of the valve or inlet hose, as well as sticking of the sealing gasket on the valve nozzle.

To check the condition of the inlet hose:

• shut off the water supply ball valve or a valve at the point of connection to the water supply;
• disconnect the hose from the tank and direct it directly into the bowl;
• open the faucet.

If the water flows normally, then the hose is good. Otherwise, it will need to be replaced with a new one. It is not recommended to clean the old hose as you may damage inner surface rubber tube, which will later lead to unexpected and severe leakage.

If the hose is in good condition, then this means that the water supply device has broken. Usually this part cannot be repaired or cleaned. It just needs to be completely replaced. And since the designs of the valves are different, then remove the broken part and take it with you to the store to buy the exact same one.

Water leaks at the toilet seat

If water began to pour from the tank directly onto the floor, then this means that the steel mounting bolts have rotted or the sealing gasket is torn at the place where the tank is attached to the pedestal.

Loosen the fixing screws

But do not rush to start repairs. Before you fix the toilet cistern, you need to buy:

• new set of fixing bolts;
• rubber pads;
• pressure washers;
• a new sealing cuff for the siphon.

Fastener replacement

After acquisition necessary materials you can start working.

First of all, turn off the water by turning off the tap at the point where the supply hose is connected to water supply network. Drain the water tank. Remove the old fastener. To do this, unscrew the nuts that are located at the bottom at the rear of the frame.

They are probably in better condition than the bolt heads and will be easier to turn. Clean the mounting points of the fasteners from dirt and rust.

Install a new cuff in place of the old one and put the tank on the toilet. Insert new gaskets and mounting bolts into the holes and fix their position with nuts.

The nuts must be tightened very carefully so as not to overtighten or damage the sanitary ware.

Open the water supply and check the tightness of the connections. In some cases, leakage may resume after 2-3 days, so re-check the tightness over time.

Complete cistern valve replacement

Replacing the installation fittings in the tank for draining water may be required in the event of a complete failure of its main components or in the event that you do not want to sort out and repair the parts of the toilet bowl separately. This is probably why you decided to completely replace the entire filling.

When removing components and parts from the tank, pay attention to their design features. Model designs of flush fittings can differ significantly from each other.

The design of the fittings is different for side and bottom connection, and may also differ in the design of the tank, which can be installed directly on the frame or suspended separately.

When removing the tank, turn off the water supply and drain the water from it. It is best to assemble and install new fittings with the container removed. So it will be much easier, and the build quality is much higher.

Therefore, start the repair by disconnecting drain barrel from the toilet:

• carefully unscrew the drain button and remove the container lid;
• unscrew the fixing bolts and inspect their condition, rusty bolts and cracked gaskets will need to be replaced with new parts during re-installation;
• remove the drain column by turning it 90 degrees or unscrewing the clamping nut;
• remove the column from the tank;
• disconnect the water supply hose and unscrew the clamping nut securing the supply valve;
• remove it and install a new one, tighten and tighten the fixing nut;
• install a new drain column by replacing the old membrane with a new one;
• connect the water supply hose and adjust the position of the float mechanism as described in the first section of the article.

After all these steps, put the tank in place and secure it with the fixing bolts. Install the cover and fix its position by twisting the push button.

Check the operation of the drain tank. Pay special attention to anchor points. flush tank to the toilet and fixing the water supply hydraulic valve. Make sure that there is no overflow, but the container is filled to the maximum level.

It's quite easy to do it yourself

As you can see, it is quite possible to fix the toilet bowl on your own. Therefore, before calling a plumber, look at the cause of the breakdown and consider how difficult it will be to repair it yourself.

Most likely, you can fix almost any breakdown yourself, especially since today everyone necessary details for this is in stores.

The design and principle of operation of the drain tank are quite simple, therefore, it is rarely difficult to repair the device.

With some breakdowns of the drain tank, water does not flow to the floor, there is no threat of flooding the neighbors from below. Such malfunctions seem insignificant, but this is exactly until the bill for payment of water supply services arrives.

If a meter is installed, then any malfunction in the tank can become a problem, so the smartest solution is to fix it right away, without waiting for trouble.

The device and operation of the drain tank

Minor difficulties sometimes occur only with improved modern models, in such cases it is worth contacting specialists. Basically, almost any repair of the toilet cistern can be done by hand.

The device of the toilet cistern is quite simple, and almost anyone can cope with its repair, because. it does not require any special skills

Mostly drain cisterns various designs similar. The main difference is in the installation method:

• Hanging tanks. Structures of this type are attached to the toilet bowl at a low height and connected with a pipe.
• Toilet bowl compact. The compact cistern is attached directly to the toilet bowl without connecting pipes.
• Built-in tank. Structures of this type are installed in the wall, they are used with hanging toilets.

Regardless of the models, the designs of the cisterns are very similar. Modern devices are convenient in that they can be repaired without disassembling the modules and replacing them entirely

The water supply to the drain tank is carried out either from below or from the side. Side feed device most commonly found in toilets domestic production. Its advantage is relatively low price, which affects the cost of the entire toilet bowl as a whole.

Bottom water supply is often found in modern domestic and imported designs. Usually these are slightly more expensive models.

Mechanisms may be provided for draining various types: buttons, rods, levers, chains. The most common option is a button.

It can be located at the top of the structure, and in models with a hidden tank - on the wall. To drain the water, just press it.

Push-button models can only be disassembled after the push-button has been removed. How to remove the lid from a tank of this design is shown in detail in the video:

Buttons in which the water is completely drained after a short single press are called automatic.

Those in which water is drained only while the button is pressed are mechanical. The former are more convenient to use, while the latter save water when flushing the toilet.

There are single and dual-mode push-button drain mechanisms. In models with two buttons, it is possible to drain only half the volume of the tank.

However, there are designs with one button, which in the same way can drain either the full volume of water or half. If a button mechanism equipped with a special auger that makes the water rotate during the descent, the toilet bowl is washed more efficiently.

Mechanisms with two buttons are a little more expensive, but the overpayments pay off, because draining in economy mode can reduce water consumption by 20 cubic meters. in year

Water volume adjustment

If desired, you can easily adjust the amount of water collected in the tank. This is necessary if the toilet is poorly flushed or there is too much water and there is a need to reduce its volume.

To change the filling volume, you need to remove the tank cap and follow simple steps. But before proceeding with the adjustment, you first need to deal with the device of the tank.

The video below will help you with this:

Option #1 - for side feed systems

Such mechanisms are equipped with a lever made of thick metal wire. It connects the valve and the float. To raise or lower the float, you need to slightly bend the wire arm.

After that, you should make sure that the tank is filled with right amount water. If not, bend the wire a little more. By raising the lever, you can increase the volume of water, lowering - reduce.

This option is only suitable for those tanks in which the float system uses metal.

Many modern models use plastic instead of metal parts. Such levers cannot be bent, but the float itself can be moved along their axis using the mounting screw provided for by the design.

The float can be fixed with a thread or a latch. If a latch is used in the design, then it is squeezed out. To increase the volume of water in the tank, the float is moved closer to the valve body.

As a result, the length of the lever is reduced. If you need to lower the water level, the float is moved further from the body.

This is the simplest design of a cistern with a side water supply. Brass wire is used as a lever. Slightly changing the angle of its inclination, you can reduce the amount of water in the tank. If a meter is installed in the house, this great way savings on utility bills

Option # 2 - in tanks with a bottom supply

If the design is with a bottom water supply, it can be adjusted even more easily than a system with a side supply. The mechanism has a special water level limiter connecting the valve lever and the float. It can be lengthened or shortened.

The float on the limiter is fixed with a thread. To adjust the water level in the tank, you need to change its height with a plastic nut.

The main advantage of bottom feed designs is the ease of installation and maintenance. When repairing or replacing problems are extremely rare

How to diagnose problems?

If the cistern is faulty, it quickly becomes obvious: water either leaks into the toilet bowl or starts dripping onto the floor. Sometimes it happens that the container is not filled.

No matter how ultra-modern and complex the design of the tank is, breakdowns appear the same in all models.

External leaks are not always immediately visible. It happens that water drips out for weeks, but its amount is so small that the damp areas are not striking. Then the leak can be determined by the appearance of red spots and rust streaks.

If they are, it is worth disassembling the tank and establishing the cause of the breakdown.

If there is no filter coarse cleaning, particles of dirt and rust constantly enter the tank. They accumulate in the tank and can damage the internal mechanisms of the structure, cause damage

Normally, the tank is filled to a predetermined level, and the rubber bulb is pressed against the drain hole, securely closes it and is held in this position due to water pressure. When you press the descent mechanism, this pear rises and opens the drain hole.

The rubber bulb must be constantly filled with air. To prevent water from getting into it, a special guide tube is provided in the design. It ensures the correct position of the pear in the "saddle".

If the integrity of the pear or tube itself is violated, the mechanism fails.

This is how the rubber pear of the tank should look like, if it is in working order. It should remain elastic and fit well to the saddle.

The first thing to do after disassembling the tank is to inspect the pear. If it has lost its elasticity, cracked, then it is in it that the cause of the leak lies. Worn rubber cannot cover the drain hole well, water leaks into cracks and gaps.

Rubber products of this type cannot be repaired, so the pear should simply be replaced.

If everything is in order with it, you need to make sure that particles of dirt and rust do not get under the rubber, which can also interfere with the normal operation of the pear.

There are cases when you can solve the problem of leakage by simply cleaning the tank. If it turns out that dirt has accumulated under the rubber bulb, it can be removed with a regular sponge. Often this is enough to restore normal operation. It also makes sense for prevention to wipe the walls of the container with a rag and remove plaque.

If the pear is in order, then you should continue to inspect the toilet tank in search of the cause of the leak.

The tank is not filled if:

• inlet hose defective;
• the inlet valve of the float mechanism is worn out.

Water can leak out if:

• the gasket between the tank and the toilet is worn out;
• a leak appeared at the place where the connecting screws were installed.

Internal leaks appear when:

• overflow tube not adjusted;
• valve is defective;
• float has failed.

All these components should be carefully checked, repair, adjust or replace damaged parts. How to disassemble the tank and find these elements is shown in the video:

Problem #1: Water does not enter the tank

How can you fix a toilet cistern if water has stopped flowing into it? It's not hard. First of all, check the supply hose. It is disconnected from the tank and one end is lowered into a container.

If the water does not flow, you can simply buy and install a new hose.

Most often, the problem lies in the clogging of the narrow part of the valve. For repair, it is enough to empty the tank, turn off the water and unscrew the assembly consisting of a valve, lever and float.

When the parts are removed, a hole will open through which the container is filled. It is very often clogged. You can clean it with a regular needle or wire.

To carry out a complete cleaning, you need to remove the valve from the inlet pipe and wash off the remaining dirt with water.

Sometimes the cause of failure is a tiny piece of scale that has fallen into the hose, or dirt. You can try to rinse or clean it

Problem #2: External Leaks

If an external leak appears, you can repair the toilet bowl with your own hands and not call the master. Usually, problems arise due to a loose fit between the gasket between the toilet bowl and the tank, or if the seals under the screws are worn out.

In the first case, it is enough to remove the tank, check the gasket and, if it has become too hard or cracked, replace it.

It happens that the reason for such a leak is banal - the gasket is not installed correctly. Then it’s enough just to put it in place, or better, change it.

If there is a leak in the place of the connecting screws, then they must be unscrewed and replaced rubber seals. To do this, it is not even necessary to remove the tank itself.

When choosing new seals, it is better to give preference to cone-shaped rather than flat ones. They adhere much more closely to surfaces.

When tightening the screws after replacing the seals, it is important to achieve an even distribution of forces in order to prevent distortions, otherwise a new leak may appear. To do this, tighten the screws little by little and in turn.

Problem #3: Fixing Internal Leaks

How to fix a cistern if water flows into the toilet bowl? To begin with, it is worth checking the correct setting of the overflow tube. It needs to be lifted a little and see if water is overflowing into the tube.

If yes, then the float valve needs to be repaired. If not, you need to adjust the lever.

Valve problems can arise from debris. You just need to remove it from under the gum.

If the rubber is worn out, you can simply turn it over on the other side, but it is better to change it right away. If the valve is broken, you will have to change it to a new one.

We offer a video instruction for replacing the fittings of the drain tank:

Problem #4: Tank noise when filling

Noise when filling the tank with water cannot be called a breakdown, because. all mechanisms are correct. However, loud noises can be very annoying, interfere with proper rest.

Most often, the tank is loudly typed immediately after draining the water, then the noise becomes less.

Solving the problem is very simple. To do this, a small piece of rubber or plastic tube is put on the branch pipe of the locking mechanism.

The length should be such that the tube reaches the bottom of the container. After that, the tank will make much less noise.

In addition to such a device, there are other ways to get rid of noise during the operation of the tank. Cardinal decision- replacement of a conventional float valve with a stabilizing valve with a special chamber. In this case, you can forever forget about the noise and relax in comfort.

Repairing a toilet cistern is a simple procedure. To fix all the malfunctions with your own hands, it is enough to have time, desire and the simplest tools.

However, sometimes there are difficulties with the diagnosis of breakdowns or the repair itself. In this case, it is better not to experiment and call a plumber.