How to prune a rose bush. How to grow indoor rose at home. Features of growing home roses

What do you need to properly prune roses?

Secateurs, knife, water, soil mix. To begin with, you must determine which variety your indoor rose belongs to, because the method and frequency of pruning depends on this. So a tea rose is usually cut into 3 eyes. The main point of pruning roses is this: to stimulate the growth of side shoots if the shoots of the rose are very long and stop bushing. Each florist forms the silhouette of a bush to his taste.

It is best to prune a rose in March-April, when the flower has not yet fully woken up and the buds have not yet blossomed. To the attention of amateur flower growers: timely pruning accelerates the beginning of flowering of a room rose.

How to prune roses?

For pruning, take only sharp tools, otherwise the cut will turn out to be torn, and this can damage the plant. Make a cut 5 millimeters above the kidney and at an angle of 45 degrees in the direction of the eye.

Start pruning with thinning, so you will see what needs to be corrected and where. First of all, old, damaged or diseased shoots are removed, then, if necessary, we remove the shoots growing inside the bush. Shoots that do not have an apical bud are also removed.

Not all flower lovers know the answer to the question - are roses cut for the winter? And if so, which ones? Is this procedure necessary for indoor plants or only garden roses need it?

Why is it necessary

Any experienced florist he will say that it is imperative to cut roses for the winter, moreover, like garden roses growing on suburban area, as well as homemade. At the same time, cutting flowers in the fall is no less important than in the spring.

Spring pruning allows you to ennoble the bush, form it correctly, remove branches that are broken and missing during the winter, that is, it is mainly decorative. Trimming rose bushes for the winter means making them stronger, healthier, and not afraid of frost. This type pruning provides buds and stems with enough sunlight and air, promotes the emergence of new buds and shoots. Flowers from such buds are formed large, and shoots are strong.

In addition, if the pruning of bushes for the winter is done correctly, then this contributes to:

  • development and strengthening of the roots;
  • faster growth;
  • education a large number kidneys;
  • resistance to various infectious diseases;
  • accumulation of nutrients.

Exist like general rules for garden (whether climbing or others) and for indoor (including Chinese hibiscus) roses about how to cut them for the winter, and their own characteristics for these types of roses.

General pruning rules

All types of roses need to be pruned. sharp knife or secateurs. A blunt instrument can lead to detachment of the cortex, deformation of the trunk and, accordingly, to the occurrence of various diseases.

Tip: when pruning branches with a diameter greater than 1 cm, you need to use a brush cutter, lopper or saw.

Pruning is done only in dry weather. Sections must be made at a distance of at least 1 cm from a living kidney, at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. This will prevent the accumulation of moisture on the cut surface and the growth of bacteria. It is not recommended to leave the one that has already begun to germinate and is located on inside bud branches as the top, as this will lead to excessive bush density.

At the end of pruning, you need to remove all cut leaves, inflorescences, buds and shoots, in order to avoid their further decay and the spread of infections. Slices are processed with garden pitch, copper or iron vitriol. copper sulphate you can process the entire bush.

Features of pruning plants growing at home in a pot

Is it possible to prune roses in winter if they are at home or in an apartment? Domestic roses (whether Chinese hibiscus or others) are best cut at the beginning of the dormant period, which begins in autumn: from late September to early October, and lasts almost until the end of winter: until mid-February. Houseplant begins to bare twigs and shed leaves? This means that it will soon enter a dormant period. After pruning, the plant looks more compact and rejuvenated. In spring, the rose will start new shoots, on which buds will form.

When pruning indoor plants, 2-3 live buds are left, everything else is removed. Then the rosette is placed in a bright, cool place with an air temperature of + 10 ° C, for the whole winter, until new buds begin to hatch, new leaves and twigs form (photo).

Features of pruning garden roses

How to prune roses for the winter growing on garden plot, in particular - climbing? Before you hide garden bushes for the winter, it is necessary to trim them.

It is best to cover the bushes in the fall, in the second half of November (depending on the territorial climate, the timing may shift slightly), so pruning done in the fall will be optimal: in mid-October - early November (video).

At climbing varieties to be pruned:

  1. Elderly shoots aged 3 years and older. These shoots have many branches, are covered with bark, and are thicker than other shoots.
  2. New, not fully ripened shoots. In frosts, such shoots will die and begin to rot under the cover, becoming a source of infection.
  3. Already dried branches, withered leaves, withered buds and flowers, leaves with traces of fungus and other diseases. If there are a lot of bushes and it is difficult to remove all the leaves, then at least the listed ones are removed.
  4. Shoots growing from buds located on the inside of the branch. By removing these shoots, we will increase the flow of air and light to other branches.

Healthy shoots are removed no more than 1/3. Removing old, withered and unformed shoots will renew roses, allowing spring to start. more flowers.

If you cut garden or home varieties of roses, following all the recommendations of experts correctly, then winter will not bring special trouble, and spring will awaken strong and healthy plants to a new life.

Today we will tell you about how to cut indoor rose , because this is one of the main conditions for the fact that your flower will develop and form correctly. Caring for roses at home requires a little work from you, but you will be satisfied with the result, because if everything is done on time and according to the rules, she will thank you in full, and your house or apartment will be transformed beyond recognition.

Should I prune my indoor rose?

The answer to this question is in the affirmative. When to prune a rose? It should be cut when the flower has already fully opened, and the middle is already almost visible. Pruning a rose is useful both for sanitary purposes: you cut off shriveled, dead shoots that only harm the flower, and in decorative purposes: you shape neat, ornamental bush, which will look the way you want it, and will not grow in a chaotic way.

How to prune an indoor rose?

We count 5 buds down from the flower, and cut off under 5 buds.

You can also cut the rose if necessary, for example, if you have large ugly knots on the stem, from the previous unsuccessful pruning, you can cut right under that place, and thereby bringing two useful action at once. If the branch is thick and large, it will give a very good shoot.

What should be the cut? It must be done obliquely with respect to the kidney, it must also be about one centimeter away from the kidney, this distance is considered ideal, the cutting angle should not be very sharp, the ideal slope is considered to be an angle of 45 degrees. Trim with sharp scissors or a knife.

Reproduction of a room rose:

Cut cuttings should not be thrown away. They can be used for . To do this, we need to prepare them.

  • To do this, we cut the flower, as you see it in the photo.

  • You also need to cut off the two lower leaves.
  • The stalk prepared in this way, we put it in the water, and wait until they have roots, after which the rose will be suitable for transplanting into a pot.

The second method of propagating a room rose is as follows:

  • For this, we will take a large stalk, which was with several knots, from previous circumcisions, and cut off a flower from it, and also cut off the lower leaves.

  • As you can see in the photo, the shoot turned out with a very powerful stem - an almost ready-made bush when it sprouts.
  • Further in the pot, where the rose bush is already growing, we dig a hole in free space and put our cutting there.

  • We deepen this knot into the ground and press it. A rose should be watered every day, she does not like to dry out earthen clod and keep her not on open sun, but in the shade.

Trimming an indoor rose is not difficult, and now you know how to do it right. The main thing is to do everything according to our advice, and a bush of this wonderful flower will delight your eyes. On this we say goodbye to you, we wish you Have a good mood, and your flower - correct pruning, see you on our website!

Indoor roses cannot be called difficult plants to grow. They just need to be carefully chosen. temperature conditions and take responsible care. If you surround roses with care, they will bloom relentlessly and almost constantly. For indoor roses, watering, fertilizing, and access to fresh air and frequent inspections. But if all other basic care items are “responsible” for the health and strength of plants, then one of the procedures is the key to its abundant and continuous flowering. Pruning - main secret luxurious flowering of potted roses. In this, miniature copies of garden charms (which are indoor roses) are no different from any other varietal roses. Three types of pruning are necessary for indoor roses: Regular, annual pruning for shaping and flowering. Regulatory pruning to deal with weak or out-of-bounds shoots. Seasonal pruning, which boils down to the removal of fading parts of the plant. Without exception, all indoor roses, regardless of their origin and class, perfectly tolerate even the strongest pruning and allow shaping. And miniature, and floribunda, and Chinese varieties pruned according to the general rules. In pruning indoor roses, it is very important to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards: use only sharp tools, and best of all, special secateurs for pruning shrubs; make sure that the tools are clean and treat the work surfaces with disinfectants; all cuts should be immediately treated with protective equipment. No matter what kind of pruning on roses we are talking about, even in a room format, cuts must be done correctly, carefully checking the location of the buds. For indoor roses, pruning is carried out only above the buds, as close as possible, but still leaving a part of the trunk about 0.5 cm long to eliminate the risk of damage to the bud itself. Damaged shoots are cut to healthy tissue. The cut is made only at an angle, from the kidney. The main pruning of indoor roses Indoor roses are pruned to stimulate thickening of the bushes and abundant flowering according to the same principles and rules as any other cultivated spray roses, including garden ones. Cutting back all old shoots to encourage new growth is the main task. Without pruning, it is impossible to stimulate the growth of strong, healthy and high-quality young shoots: indoor queens bloom on shoots current year, and without pruning, flowering will be very poor. Basic pruning of indoor beauties is carried out after a period of rest and before the start active growth. Roses are usually pruned in February or early March. But it is best to focus on a much more obvious sign - swelling of the kidneys. They should not wake up, begin to develop, but only “peep” so that it is easy to recognize future growth points. Duration daylight hours at the time of trimming should already exceed 10 hours. For indoor roses, both late and early pruning are equally dangerous: if you prune ahead of schedule, during a short daylight hours, then new shoots will develop too weakly, and both foliage and flowering will suffer; if pruning is carried out late, when growth has already begun to develop from the buds, then as a result of a cardinal haircut, growth will stop, the plant will spend energy on adaptation, and all development before pruning will be “waste” and deplete the plant. They begin the main pruning not with a general regulatory pruning, but with a mandatory sanitary cleaning. This procedure is typical for all shrubs in both garden and indoor culture: First of all, all damaged, dry shoots are removed. Pruning is carried out to healthy tissue. If it makes no sense to save the rest of the shoot (for example, if there are no buds on it), then they are cut to the ground. All weak, elongated, thinned shoots are cut to the base. The bushes are carefully examined and the branches are cut to the base, thickening the crown and growing inside the bushes. During pruning, you also need to remove: strongly twisted shoots; twigs without an upper central bud (plug); one of any intersecting shoots and extra branches growing from one bud. If pruning was carried out after flowering, then before the main pruning, previously missed or new problem areas are cut out, and control is carried out. Most safe rule, which allows you to always trim the rose correctly - cut all the shoots to half their length. If you do not have experience growing roses in room culture or you are afraid of pruning, then use this pruning principle. This is the most reliable option for pruning indoor roses. If pruning does not scare you, and you can easily navigate the plant itself, you can “count” the buds well and adjust the pruning individually on each bush, then it is better to use a less universal, but also more productive strategy. All shoots of a room rose are shortened, leaving at least 3 high-quality buds on them (the optimal number is 4-5 buds). The degree of pruning is determined depending on the desired compactness and shape of the bush, the condition of the plant, the thickness and height of the shoots. Small-flowered roses like lower pruning than large-flowered ones, weak-growing shoots are cut into three buds, and up to 5-6 buds can be left on powerful ones. On any bush, it is imperative to leave 4-5 strong skeletal shoots each (they are usually shortened to 3-5 buds, leaving a base 10-15 cm high). The formation of a rose can be carried out as desired. When pruning roses, you can set a strict, almost topiary shape of a ball or cone, you can limit the height or make the bushes “flat”. Different types roses are more "inclined" to their particular shape. So, floribundas and Chinese (Bengal) indoor roses are formed at will, miniature roses are more often grown in a spherical, conical or elliptical form. If the rose was bought with certain form bush, then with regular pruning it is supported and shortened by knocking out shoots. If they want to ask a room rose new form, then it is better to carry out the formation gradually and stretch it out for several years, cutting off only part of the shoots every year and giving the plant time for high-quality thickening of the crown and restoration. In addition to the main pruning, roses should be monitored throughout the rest of the year. If some shoots grow unproductively, are too weak or thin, stretch out, stand “naked”, it is better to remove them immediately. Care after the main pruning Roses that have undergone the basic pruning procedure should not be immediately exposed to the sun and heat. Before the appearance of leaves cut off indoor beauties it is better to keep in a room with a cool temperature of about 10-11 degrees and in diffused lighting. In bright light and room temperature they can be rearranged only after the appearance of the first leaves. Watering after pruning for indoor roses should be very careful. Waterlogging at this stage is a very big threat, and the complete drying of the substrate may not allow the plant to release full-fledged strong branches. Top dressing is not resumed until the roses begin to actively develop. It is worth paying attention to the humidity of the air: high humidity in the first weeks after pruning increases the risk of the spread of diseases and fungal infections of indoor roses. Additional and seasonal procedures Proper pruning for indoor roses starts at the flowering stage. As with garden beauties, fruiting in indoor roses negatively affects the duration of flowering and its characteristics. Bushes must be regularly inspected and constantly remove fading flowers from the plant. Such a “cleansing” will not only prolong flowering, but will also give you the opportunity to admire the flawless bushes in pots, which are far from being decorated with the appearance of withering petals. The main seasonal procedures during flowering: 1. As soon as the flowers fade on the rose, all faded parts of the shoots are shortened to the first full-fledged leaf (pentifolia) or to the first full-fledged bud looking outward. Pruning above the bud is carried out according to the same rules as the main pruning on indoor roses. 2. If you want to achieve constant flowering from a rose, after the flower is fully opened, you can cut the stem to the fifth bud, thereby stimulating the growth of new shoots and buds. Each new shoot during the entire growing period is shortened in the same way as with the main pruning. This option is time-consuming and does not always bring the desired result, in the conditions of reduced daylight hours, the rose will still stop flowering, so it is better to simply remove faded inflorescences in the usual way and not combine pruning and flowering. 3. Within additional measures do not forget to remove dry or damaged parts. Dry or beginning to dry out leaves or twigs are also better to cut off without waiting for spring sanitation. The last pruning of faded inflorescences is best supplemented with sanitary cleaning - the removal of damaged, weak, dry, unproductive or thickening shoots. By thinning and leaving only strong healthy branches for the winter, they reduce the risk of the spread of diseases and pests. It is not necessary to carry out sanitary pruning after flowering; it can be quite combined with the main one. And in this matter it is better to focus on your preferences and capabilities.

autumn pruning necessary to prepare plants for winter, rejuvenate them, accumulate, save nutrients for vigorous spring growth.

The first rule of autumn pruning: pruning of bushes and faded flowers is prohibited from the beginning of August until the start of regular night frosts down to -5 ° C, otherwise buds will open.

By adhering to a series of pruning rules in the fall, chic, healthy, profusely flowering rose bushes will delight you in spring and summer.

Pros and cons of autumn pruning roses

Benefits of autumn pruning:

  • A cropped plant is more convenient to cover for the winter.
  • The plant accumulates nutrients, they will help it develop in the spring.
  • Increased growth of new shoots.
  • The root system develops better.
  • The bookmark of the number of peduncles is increasing.
  • Plants are more protected from infection by infections, fungi.

Minus autumn pruning- stimulating the growth of dormant buds if average temperature rises to positive at night. Buds that develop will not tolerate subsequent frosts. This threatens the disease, the death of the escape.

Pruning timing

It is necessary to carry out pruning before sheltering roses before the onset of severe cold weather, preferably on a dry, sunny day. Pruning period: mid-October - mid-November, but the deadline may be shifted, depending on the region. Cut roses, focusing on the night temperature. It must fall steadily to -5 ° C, otherwise pruning will provoke awakening.

The correct cut of a rose shoot

Trimming methods

Pruning is carried out in three ways. They depend on the length of the stem, the branching of the bush and the species:


Choose a medium pruning if you have not determined the type of rose.

Be sure to remove:

  • Old shoots (over 3 years old),
  • offshoots white color, young branches (they will not tolerate frost and become a place for the development of the disease),
  • Shoots growing inwards.
  • Dried buds, flowers, leaves.

How to prune roses?

All roses, regardless of when they were planted, need to be cleaned in the fall. The pruning tool must be sharp and disinfected.


We will need:

  • Garden file, delimber for removing thick branches.
  • Secateurs for cutting and trimming thin branches.
  • Thick gloves to protect hands.
  • Garden var.
  • Rake.

Pruning rules:

  • Dry, preferably sunny weather.
  • Use a sharp tool.

    With a blunt instrument, you will damage, “chew” the bark and it will peel off.

  • For proper development, keep the proportion - the length of the roots is equal to the length of the aerial part.
  • Thick branches with a diameter of more than 1 cm, cut with a lopper or saw.
  • Remove all damaged or diseased wood from the central branches, to a healthy place. It differs in color from the affected part of the plant, the bark is green, and the cut is white.
  • Make a cut over the outer, developed, but unblown bud.
  • The cut is made oblique, approximately 45 °, so that moisture flows above the outer kidney by 1 cm with a cut inward.
  • Cover all sections with garden pitch, and the plant itself with an antifungal agent, you can use a solution.

When the weather becomes consistently cold and frosty, the plants need to be spudded. To do this, use ordinary soil, but not from under the bush, so as not to injure the roots. The bush is covered with earth, after which it is covered with coniferous branches - spruce branches.

Medium pruning step by step instructions

  1. Remove all leaves, buds, faded parts of the plant. Destroy wild shoots that have grown below the scion.
  2. Choose 3-5 strong, green branches for the base of the future bush. Dry, thinned, dead branches and all other unnecessary branches are removed to the soil level.
  3. Cut off the main branches, leaving 5-7 buds per pagon.

    The upper kidney must be external!

  4. Remove and destroy all cut debris so that it does not become a source of bush disease.
  5. Treat the cuts with garden pitch, and the bush with an antifungal drug.

What roses are pruned in autumn?

floribunda

In this species, flower buds are placed on the shoots of this year. For pruning a bush, two methods of pruning are recommended. Such pruning called combined.

Part of the branches are cut, leaving up to 10 buds, such pruning ensures early flowering. The remaining branches are greatly shortened, leaving 3-5 buds, thereby causing the growth of new shoots, they will bloom later.

polyanthus roses

Adult bushes of this species should have 7-8 main branches. The rest of the branches are removed. Be sure to clean the middle of the bush. Pruning is achieved spherical shape bush.

In autumn, the shoot is cut off by a third, and 1-2 buds are left at its growth. This species blooms on shoots of both the past and this year.

miniature roses

Miniature pruned, leaving 5-7 buds on the shoot, trying to give symmetry.

park roses

At park rose flowers are laid on the branches previous year and present. Autumn pruning will stimulate the growth of new shoots. Weak, unhealthy branches are removed. Forming the skeleton of the bush, cut the main branches up to 15 cm.

climbing roses

Climbing varieties are pruned to completely cover the necessary object, form the desired crown, and ensure long flowering.

Climbing varieties are divided into two types:

  1. Small-flowered Ramblers have long (up to 4 m), thin, flexible shoots, as well as large inflorescences of small flowers that bloom on the last year's shoots. Again, these shoots do not bloom. Therefore, they are cut off after flowering to the base of the soil, 3-4 new shoots grow from the soil to replace them. In autumn, Ramblers are not radically cut, removing only leaves, remnants of inflorescences, and damaged branches.
  2. climbers- the second group, the shoots of which are thick, strong, up to 2.5 m long. They bloom once a season. They differ from Ramblers in the formation of several basal stems, and bloom due to growths on old shoots. In autumn, weak stems are removed, and young shoots up to 4 years old are left. It is better to leave 3 new replacement shoots and up to 7 old, flowering stems.

Semi-climbing roses

Semi-climbing varieties bloom on this year's growth. In autumn, the annual growth is shortened by a third. Two-year branches are shortened to 3-5, their growth is up to 1-2 buds.

Standard types

When floribundas or hybrid teas are grafted onto the trunk, the crown will grow upwards. They are cut in autumn, each growth is up to 3-5 buds, lateral growth is up to 1-2. The middle of the stem must be left free.

Standard roses with a weeping crown are pruned, removing all last year's stems, leaving only the current growth. When it is not enough, you can leave symmetrical two-year-old stems by cutting off their side shoots to 3 buds.

ground cover roses


In the fall, if the bush was planted in the spring, remove all the stems that have faded. For future flowering, basal processes are left, slightly cutting and bending the stems to the ground, securing in this position. This will ensure flowering along the entire length of the pagon. Lateral growths are cut off, leaving 2-3 buds.

In the fall, in the second year, half of the pinned branches are removed. New grown shoots are taken from the middle and attached to the soil. side shoots removed, leaving 2-3 buds. Remove all shoots that interfere with growth.

For the third and next years in autumn, all shoots attached to the ground are removed. New shoots are taken from the middle of the bush and pinned to the ground, cutting off the side shoots to 3 buds. Also remove all crossed stems, diseased, unripe, damaged.

Autumn pruning of roses is very important and should not be neglected. The future flowering, as well as the appearance and health of the bush, depends on the quality of pruning. Take the time for these noble plants, the result of your efforts will be a lush, long flowering.