How to increase the humidity in the cellar. How to effectively dry the cellar from moisture and condensation? Fighting high humidity in the basement: effective and inexpensive

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Water elimination principle

So:

• Pumps for pumping groundwater: which is better).

Method	Description

Each of all the listed methods for dealing with water in the basement is effective in its own way. Which one suits your situation and financial condition- you decide. However, it should be remembered that the more competently you treat this problem, the better you will get rid of it. => Water In The Cellar At Home: What To Do + Pro Tips => => publish => open => closed => => voda-v-pogrebe-chto-delat-93 => => => 2019-04-02 18:30:50 => 2019-04-02 14:30:50 => => 0 =>?p=1401 => 0 => post => => 10 => raw => index,follow)) = > 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 1401 => 2 => 2015-07-16 18:28:50 => 2015-07-16 14:28:50 => What to do - in the cellar water, how to get rid of it How to protect your basement from constant flooding How to get rid of water in the cellar Well, if you have yet to build your own country house.In this case, you can learn from other people's mistakes and take care of how to protect your future basement from groundwater penetration.But what if the problem arose after the acquisition of real estate?

Problem Prevention Methods

The problem of flooding basements with groundwater is very common. Often it is decided to solve it already when the room is flooded (in the spring, when the snow melts). This is fundamentally wrong, since it is better to warn the problem in advance. Answers to the question "What to do if there is water in the cellar?" there are two:

• Installation drainage system and waterproofing the walls and floor of the cellar. This is the most practical and reliable method.
• So, if you are in the process of building a new house, you should install the ring structure of the external wall drainage. It is inexpensive and is installed along with the foundation of the house.

But the benefits are enormous:

• The system intercepts ground water that is trying to flood the basement.
• It diverts this water away from the walls of the cellar, thus allowing the room to remain dry.

Note. Such a barrier is created through the laying of drains (drainage pipes) in the form of a protective ring around the perimeter of the house. Installed at the corners of the house drainage wells into which water collects.

Ways to remove water in a well

Measures to remove water from the well In order to remove the water accumulated in the wells, several methods are used:

• Redirect water to the sewerage of the suburban areawhere the house is located (this method requires special permission from the one who owns the central village sewerage).
• Used for watering garden areas.
• Carry out water filtration in the lower layers of the soil.

Note. Advantages of external drainage device may lose their weight winter time as the system is subject to freezing. A frozen system cannot perform its functions.

In order to protect the drains from freezing, it is necessary to insulate the soil on which the pipes are laid. As a basement insulation, you can use ordinary foam boards.

Measures to isolate the cellar from water

detailed instructions for insulation in the basement, depending on the passage of groundwater. Isolation of the cellar from water is quite effective without a drainage system, it has its advantages: The step-by-step creation of basement waterproofing will help you visualize this process more clearly:

• First, work is carried out in the basement to search for sources of flooding.
• Then they are engaged in processing the cracks found at the first stage and sealing the seams.
• With the help of special building mixtures create waterproofing membrane on the internal walls cellars.
• cement coated erect reliable protection gender.
• On the final stage waterproofing the basement is equipped with a ventilation system.

Do-it-yourself basement waterproofing is quite easy. For this, it is not necessary to be a specialist, as is the case with the installation of external annular drainage. One of the lessons on self-prevention of water from entering the basement using waterproofing is presented in the video in this article.

Water elimination principle

The ring external drainage system will not suit you, but the device internal drainage in a flooded cellar will help get rid of the problem If the construction of the house you bought was completed many years ago and you are always haunted by water in the cellar, how to get rid of it in this case? There is a way out, you have a choice:

• pave drainage pipes on top of the existing floor in the basement, thereby reducing the height of the room (this is inconvenient if the cellar is rather low).
• Lay drainage pipes under the basement floor, dismantling part of it, but maintaining the height of the room.

Conclusion! Thanks to the installation of such an internal drainage system, the water that used to enter the cellar will pass through pipes to a well specially designated for it.

So:

• A drainage well must be dug at a point you have determined basement.
• In a pre-purchased or made by you well is placed drainage pump, which will remove groundwater when it reaches a critical level in the cellar (read Pumps for pumping groundwater: which is better).
• If your basement is designed to store valuables or products, then the price paid for the purchase of a pump will fully pay for itself.

The photo shows the effect of pumping water obtained using a drainage system.

Not a budget approach to saving the cellar

If there is water in the cellar, what to do without resorting to standard budget methods for solving the problem? There are several more approaches to rid the basement of penetrating water:

Method	Description
The injection method is a modern, expensive approach to basement waterproofing using foamy polymer resin and insulating gels.	If you have enough funds and desire, then resorting to help professional craftsmen, you can forget about this problem. Instructions for getting rid of ground water in a basement-type room it consists of two points: a) work is underway to erect an anti-filtration curtain; b) a polymer membrane is being created to prevent water seepage; Pay attention! The quality of such work depends on the correct determination of soil density and building material used for the construction of basement walls.
The use of liquid rubber is a common and effective method of coating the floor and walls of the basement with a special water-repellent substance - liquid rubber.	This durable and flexible material is made from polymers and emulsions and is applied through sprayers. Cold spraying of rubber instantly forms a dense curtain through which even steam cannot penetrate, not to mention water. The material can be sprayed even on wet surfaces because it has excellent adhesion. The use of liquid rubber to keep the cellar dry is completely safe for humans, as it is an environmentally friendly material. If your basement-type room should look aesthetically pleasing, then liquid rubber- this is the material that you need, because only this method of waterproofing leaves absolutely no seams.

Each of all the listed methods for dealing with water in the basement is effective in its own way. Which one suits your situation and financial condition is up to you. However, it should be remembered that the more competently you treat this problem, the better you will get rid of it. => Water In The Cellar At Home: What To Do + Pro Tips => => publish => open => closed => => voda-v-pogrebe-chto-delat-93 => => => 2019-04-02 18:30:50 => 2019-04-02 14:30:50 => => 0 =>?p=1401 => 0 => post => => 10 => raw => index,follow) => 0 => -1 => 385 => 385 => 0 => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => 1 => => => => => => => => => => => => => => Array ( => query_vars_hash => query_vars_changed) => Array ( => init_query_flags => parse_tax_query))

The direct purpose of the cellar is to extend the shelf life of the crop, regardless of the time of year and weather conditions outside the window. The most important factor responsible for the creation optimal microclimate, serves as humidity in the cellar. To receive good conditions storage of products, its performance should be stable and not go beyond the permissible limits.

High humidity in the cellar causes a decrease in the shelf life of products. Bringing this parameter to standard values ​​is an important task, the solution of which is necessary for the preservation of the crop.

Influence on the microclimate and standard values

Building a cellar is enough challenging task requiring integrated approach. When constructing it, it is necessary to take into account great amount factors and focus on building codes, otherwise, it is unlikely that it will be possible to obtain a high-quality building. The main criteria that affect the safety of food are humidity and temperature. It is these two parameters that are the main ones and must be maintained at a certain level.

According to normative documentation The optimal conditions in the cellar are:

• humidity within 85-90%;
• temperature around 2-5 degrees.

Such a ratio of the main indicators is the most favorable for extending the shelf life of the crop. At the same time, it must be observed all year round, regardless of external factors. The imbalance instantly affects the microclimate of the room.

Increased humidity in the cellar leads to a shift in the dew point inside the room. At the same time, in normal conditions it must be outside of it. The consequence of this process is the formation of condensate, which covers all surfaces and contributes to the development of dampness. Mold, musty air, food rotting and rack corrosion are just a few of the problems that excess moisture can cause.

An increase in temperature makes the air drier, which also does not bring anything good. A sharp decrease in the level of moisture and an increase in thermal indicators has Negative influence on foods, drying them 2x faster. Therefore, the temperature and humidity in the cellar must be constant, and also be within the limits provided for by the technical documentation.

Causes

Controlling humidity and maintaining it within certain limits is a rather difficult task. It is very easy to break the precarious balance between the main indicators. The slightest flaws in the design or neglect of construction technology affect the characteristics of the room. Biggest Influence on the microclimate in the cellar has:

• soil type;
• location;
• waterproofing quality;
• quality of thermal insulation;
• condition of the ventilation system.

High humidity in the cellar may be the result of its construction in unsuitable soil. Each type of soil has its own coefficient of thermal conductivity. The higher its performance, the less the soil can withstand thermal stress. Moreover, such a statement is true not only in relation to an increase in temperature, but also to its decrease. Soil with high conductivity freezes fairly quickly. Cold air reaches the cellar, contributing to a sharp decrease in air temperature in it. Loam and clay are a poor base for building a facility, and sandstone and sandstone are considered good soil for building it.

Imbalance of key indicators may occur when wrong location cellars. If the building is not deep enough underground or near water sources. In this case, it will warm up faster in summer and freeze in winter. For neutralization similar phenomena it must be deepened at least 0.5-1.0 meters. Another option would be to build a cellar directly under residential building. In this case, the heat from its heated part will penetrate through the ceiling, contributing to the dew point mixing.

High humidity in the cellar may be the result of poor waterproofing. During the rainy season, water permeates the ground and, in the absence of a protective layer or its violation, can seep through brickwork inside the premises. At the same time, the amount of moisture that enters the cellar depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe unprotected area and the intensity of washing the walls. It is possible to solve such a problem only by carrying out work on applying a waterproofing layer to outer surface object.

The quality of thermal insulation also plays a role important role for creating optimal conditions in the cellar. If it is located in clay soils, is not deep enough underground or is equipped directly under the house, then an imbalance between temperature and humidity cannot be avoided. The situation can be corrected only by creating an additional heat-insulating layer, which is mounted on the ceiling or walls.

Condition of the ventilation system

Humidity in the cellar should always be the same. The most significant role in the process of removing excess heated air is played by the condition of the ventilation system. A well-functioning hood can neutralize most of the negative factors that lead to a violation of the microclimate in it. The operation of any ventilation system is based on natural circulation air masses, which, when heated, rise up, and after cooling down again to the floor. This property is especially clearly seen in a closed space, which is the cellar.

Important! According to the regulatory documentation, at least 150-180 cubic meters should be supplied through the ventilation system every hour. fresh air. Such an indicator makes it possible not only to remove the humidity in the cellar, but also to partially normalize the temperature regime.

In the process of heating, the air absorbs particles of liquid and rises to the ceiling with them. In this case, the cold air stream descends to the bottom of the room. Thus, the creation of a ventilation system of a supply and exhaust type is carried out on the basis of the difference in air temperature inside the cellar and directly outside it.

Reduce humidity in a cellar with a small area up to 10 sq.m. possible by applying natural ventilation. The principle of its operation is to organize good air circulation based on physical properties air. The outlet channel is installed near the ceiling, providing the removal of heated moist air masses. The inlet is mounted at the very floor 10-15 cm before its surface. Moreover, both air ducts are located at different ends of the room. This installation scheme allows you to organize excellent air exchange inside the room.

Get rid of high humidity in a cellar with an area of ​​​​more than 10 sq.m. only possible using forced systems ventilation. The principle of their operation is based on the use of special exhaust fans that increase natural circulation air.

To bring the temperature and humidity indicators back to normal, the parameters of the cellar must comply with all necessary standards. The presence of leaks, poor thermal insulation and improper territorial location have a negative impact on the indoor climate. Therefore, such problems must be eliminated at the design stage and carried out construction works according to the norms specified in SNiP.

Humidity and air temperature are the determining parameters, on the value of which the storage conditions of products depend. At the same time, it is not easy to achieve the optimal ratio between these indicators. On the climatic conditions inside the cellar is influenced by a huge number of factors, among which a special place is occupied by the functionality of ventilation.

Dampness in the basement is perceived by many as a prerequisite, but this is a delusion. The basement should be cool, but not damp. And if during the construction it is possible to foresee and prevent dampness, then in order to remove dampness after the Nth amount of time the basement has been used, you will have to try. One thing pleases: there is nothing impossible in this and it is not envisaged, all the work is feasible, relatively not expensive, and all of them are completed quickly enough.

Why dampness occurs

Excess moisture in the basement - this phenomenon can occur due to various reasons. The most common of them:

• Moisture absorption by walls or floors.
• Insufficient basement ventilation.
• The passage of moisture into the room due to cracks in the walls, ceiling or at the junctions of walls and ceiling.

Establishing one or sometimes several causes is how to properly diagnose a disease for a person. Then the treatment will be successful, and it will take much less time than rushing late.

Walls absorb moisture from the ground

If waterproofing was not provided for during the construction of the basement, only big thickness walls. Miscellaneous materials have different hygroscopicity, that is, the ability to absorb moisture into themselves. For example, brick is more hygroscopic than cinder block.

Two options can serve as a rescue: if the humidity is not very high, then improving ventilation will dot the “i”, and if high humidity saves internal waterproofing of walls or floors. We will talk about ventilation in the next section, but now we will learn how to waterproof walls or floors in basements.

Few ways:

• Building new walls
• Waterproofing with mastics or waterproofing compounds.

The first way, let it not seem wild to you. It's pretty old way, which cannot be called ideal, but it is quite considered as an option. The bottom line is the construction of new walls at a small distance from the old ones - about 2-3 cm. Only with such an arrangement, it is necessary to think about ventilation from the new inter-wall space.

Waterproofing various materials also solves the problem. Bitumen-based mastics are able to keep moisture out. Preliminary cleaning of the walls and forward, you can apply.

Only both methods will not allow moisture to penetrate into the basement, but leave the wall material wet. Sometimes this is fraught with the destruction of the brick.

Poor ventilation or lack of it

If the basement is damp and you don’t know what to do, then ventilation will solve the problem and you don’t even have to use the first method. It just needs to be organized. For basements, it is customary to consider ventilation of high quality if it is a supply and exhaust. In the basement, two pipes leading outside are mounted in opposite corners. Only one pipe is flush with the ceiling, and the second almost touches the floor with its lower edge. In this case, the air circulation will be continuous and the problem of dampness will be solved for sure. There are only two nuances:

1. Obligatory peaks on pipes, otherwise the first thunderstorm will force you to go into the basement in fishing boots.
2. Pipe diameter plays a role. For better circulation, a larger pipe diameter will be needed, but in winter there is a risk negative temperature in the basement.

cracks

When the basement is old and even your grandmother does not remember it, but not because of sclerosis, then cracks in it are already a pattern. Careful sealing of such passages for moisture is a quick and easy job. Cement-sand mortar, putty or even polyurethane foam for large gaps - these are the most available materials and a simple algorithm of actions.

Instead of a conclusion

Dampness in the basement is unpleasant and undesirable. It is only better to think about it at the beginning of the construction of the basement than after. But even if this happened, then you should not be especially upset, because everything can be solved. Determine the cause and choose a solution. Perhaps you know others effective ways eliminate dampness - then welcome to the comments below.

When building a house, garage or any other outbuilding, many homeowners prefer houses with a basement. This is extremely convenient, because there is additional space for storing various useful things, and if you're lucky, you can equip, for example, a workshop here.

However, often construction is carried out according to an “economical” project or with a violation of technology, as a result, a terrible and destructive enemy appears in the basement - moisture. It gradually undermines the structure, and its constant companion - mold fungus - spoils not only appearance and takes part in the destruction, but also renders substantial harm human health. The question arises, how to remove dampness in the basement?

Three reasons for dampness in the basement

Naturally, it is simply necessary to deal with all this, and first you need to find out the root of the problem. So, where can water and condensate come from in the basement, consider the main causes of dampness in the basement:

• capillary through walls, ceiling, floor;
• direct way through the cracks;
• condense from the air due to lack (or insufficiency) of ventilation.

Now that the enemy has been identified, you can proceed directly to the fight. Yes, before proceeding to work, the water from the basement, of course, must be pumped out and the room well ventilated, and, if possible, dried with a heat gun (fan, hair dryer).

Getting rid of cracks and capillary water in the basement

Cracks and cracks - the source of moisture in the basement

To do this, carefully check all surfaces for the presence of large and small cracks. May have to be completely or partially dismantled thermal insulation coating walls, ceiling, remove flooring. Having found the place of violation of integrity, we carefully close it. Then we produce waterproofing works. These works are divided into: internal (floor, ceiling, walls) and external.

Outdoor waterproofing

First you need to check the entire building from the outside, because very often the reason that the basement is flooded or simply damp is that the drainage system around the house is simply stupidly equipped.

It includes:

• • slopes on the roof, windows, above the porch;
  • downpipes of "directional action", that is, draining water into the funnel of an underground storm drain or at least into an above-ground gutter;
  • drainage system around the walls of the house;

If all these components or at least part of them are absent, then this drawback must be eliminated. You should start from above, that is, from slopes and downpipes.

Now you can move on to the next step: protecting the underground part of the outer walls. For this:

1. We remove the old blind area.
2. Digging a hole a little more than half a meter wide beyond the outer walls of the basement (so that you can get into it and carry out work).
3. Dry thoroughly the outer wall of the house (natural or forced).
4. Coating the wall antifungal compounds (the choice in building stores is simply endless).
5. Coating the wall(can be clay, concrete based liquid glass or with additives that reduce moisture absorption);
6. Optional step: making an underground from a sheet of ruberoid. To do this, we fix it on the wall of the house 0.5 meters above the ground level and take it over the edge outer wall basement.
7. We fill the hole.
8. We equip the blind area(you can use any kind soft roof).

If serious excavation you can’t afford, then you can get by for the first time with only the last item. At the same time, a soft roof sheet should partially go onto the wall of the building (somewhere by 50–70 cm), and it is important to fix it well, for example, with the same bitumen. The second edge must go over the edge underground wall basement by the same 50–70 cm.

Internal basement waterproofing

To get rid of dampness in the basement, you must:

1. Good first.
2. Get rid of crumbling coatings.
3. Clear cracks.
4. Seal them with cement mortar.
5. Soak the walls with an antifungal drug;
6. Lubricate everything with a waterproofing solution (the simplest is bituminous mastic).

Pressure leaks, as well as their former places, must be very carefully repaired, for example, with alabaster.

To enhance the effect, you can plaster the walls completely or only partially 0.5–1 meter from the floor. But this step is not mandatory.

You can also make new walls from moisture-resistant material, in large cellars often build new brickwork. Between old and new wall there should be a distance of at least 3 cm. It is important to drill holes between the old and new walls so that the air from the basement goes out to the outside ventilation holes, and also to ensure that moisture does not accumulate between the walls.

Dampness in the basement can also provide the old floor, even if it concrete screed. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to remove the decorative floor covering, close up all the cracks in the concrete, if any. Then wait until everything dries, cover it with sand or expanded clay - the layer should be about 5 cm, and then lay the roofing material or other waterproof durable material. After processing bituminous mastic you can make a new screed or lay logs, and on them - a plank floor.

Ventilation

Internal ventilation in the basement is a must. At the same time, it should be precisely the supply and exhaust. The most simple circuit: two pipes, one of which goes almost from the very floor of the basement and goes out under the ceiling, the second is located under the ceiling and also leads outside. The outer parts of the pipes must be protected from the ingress of melt and rain water.

Fighting mold fungus

The two main enemies of mold are oxygen and dryness. The first we have already provided by arranging good ventilation. If for some reason this is not possible, then the basement should be ventilated as often as possible, but remember that the fungus will definitely return. The second can be provided by drying ( industrial dryer, heat gun, heater). After drying, you can proceed to the treatment of walls, floors and ceilings with antifungal compounds.

If you have a rather old building, and cracks still appear in the basement from time to time (in the corners, between bricks), then as a temporary measure, you can plug them with rags smeared with bituminous mastic and plaster them on top.

In the basement, where you need to pump out water, it is worth organizing a pit- waterproof "glass" made of metal, concrete with waterproofing or other similar material. We will already pump water out of it with a pump.

The floor in the basement should be at an angle, even if small, directed to one corner. In this corner is a pit. Then all the water will collect where we can easily fight it.

Express method for removing moisture and dampness in the basement

For quick release from humidity, it is necessary to organize the collection of moisture with a hydrophilic substance (excellently absorbent). To do this, we take a board, put it at an angle in a bucket, sprinkle the board with hydrophilic powder (lime, alum, and so on). This method allows you to perfectly maintain dryness in the basement in the absence of the owners.

Blitz for the fastest

Briefly, all methods of dealing with dampness in the basement:

1. We carry out external waterproofing works (rainfall, coating the outer walls with bitumen, arranging the blind area)
2. We remove mold.
3. We produce repair work to eliminate cracks.
4. We make new waterproofing.
5. Set up ventilation.

Having done all of the above, you can be sure that your home will be insured against the appearance of such an extremely undesirable phenomenon as dampness and mold, which can affect not only the basement, but also living quarters.

For most summer residents and suburban residents, dampness in the cellar is a huge problem. The reason for the increase in humidity is considered to be poorly made heat or waterproofing. Another reason may be the lack of a ventilation system.

Whatever the reason, a wet basement is not suitable for food storage. Therefore, moisture must be removed and disposed of condensate. We will tell you today how to dry the cellar, disinfect and prepare it for laying the crop.

How to dry the cellar

For drying, choose a dry sunny day. First of all, we take out all the products and boxes left there, we also need to remove the shelves, disassemble the racks, pallets. Next, you need to sweep out all the debris and sand. If there is water, it must be pumped out.

All existing structures are cleared hot water with the addition of soap and baking soda. Further, all parts are treated with a solution of lime and blue vitriol. This will help get rid of fungus, mold and harmful bacteria. After that, all parts are left to dry in the sun for several days.

Note: The places where the furniture stood are thoroughly washed from dirt and mold. For greater effect, you can use a mixture of salt and sulfuric acid, which is left inside for three hours.

After that, we open the doors, everyone ventilation pipes and hatches for drying the room.

How to quickly dry the cellar from dampness with ventilation

There is a certain algorithm for drying underground storage, which depends, first of all, on the presence of ventilation in it. Consider how this process occurs in rooms with ventilation systems or openings.

We heat the cellar

If on the street warm weather, and dampness needs to be removed now and ventilation does not help, you need to heat the air. To do this, take an old metal bucket, make holes in the bottom and walls. Then they are securely attached to the cable and the coals are poured into the bucket. The coals are kindled and set to a constant burning. A bucket of glowing coals on a cable is lowered into the basement and fixed so that it hangs above the floor, and the room itself is closed (Figure 1).

Doors need to be opened every 20-30 minutes. But you can’t climb inside, because the temperature there is high and accumulation is possible carbon monoxide. After the coals have burned out, we take out the bucket and close the cellar. You can’t look inside for three days, the smoke will kill the mold and disinfect the room. In this way, you can get rid of dampness in the basement under the garage.

Figure 1. Drying the basement by heating

Instead of a bucket of coal, you can use: a potbelly stove (just lower it into the basement and heat it), heat gun high power, propane burner or kyrogaz. However, it should be borne in mind that these methods are considered quite dangerous and cannot be used alone.

How to dry the cellar from dampness without ventilation

If during the construction of the basement it was not installed ventilation system, you need to equip some tubes. They can be brought to the wall or ceiling. You can also purchase a fan with a supply and exhaust mechanism.

After flooding, you first need to pump out the water. Then take everything out, dry at open doors and hatches and whitewashing with lime. After that, you can use the methods described below.

A cellar without ventilation can be dried using hydrophilic materials:

• Slaked lime - destroys the fungus and removes moisture. Arranged on shelves and along walls.
• Dry sawdust - contribute to a decrease in humidity.
• Calcium chloride - tends to absorb moisture. Lay out, collect in a day, calcined and can be used again.
• Dry carton boxes used to prevent condensation on the ceiling.

Can be purchased special equipment - household dehumidifier air, which also effectively cope with the problem of high humidity.

Disinfection and fight against fungi and mold

After drying, they begin to fight the main problem of underground storage - mold and fungus. For this, there are several effective methods which we will describe below.

Vapors of lime

Lime is fast and inexpensive way get rid of the fungus. It is used to combat colonies of fungi and for prevention.

Before starting work, carry out pre-processing rooms deactin. The drug is diluted in water, then applied to all painted surfaces.

Figure 2. disinfectant treatment lime

There are two folk recipe, according to which it is possible to clean the basement from the fungus with lime:

• Lime mixture with copper sulphate. To do this, take two buckets of water 1 kg of slaked lime and 100 g of vitriol. Apply with a spray gun (Figure 2).
• mixture with formalin. For a bucket of water, 200 g of formalin and 500 g of bleach are used. The resulting solution lubricates all surfaces inside the basement. After that, the room should be dried and ventilated.

Sulfuric (smoke) bomb

Sulfur gas vapors are considered an effective method for removing fungus. To use a sulfur checker, you need to block the access of air to the room, put the checker in a tin basin and set it on fire. Then quickly exit and close the doors tightly (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Disinfection of the cellar with a pair of sulfur checkers

Be careful, as sulfuric smoke is dangerous to people and animals. After 12 hours, the room must be thoroughly ventilated and treated with slaked lime.

Mold remover

There are cases of white fluffy mold. This is one type of fungus. To combat it, use the methods described above, and you can also use a foam remover.

By applying the product to the place where the fungus appears, the mold immediately begins to curl. In the future, the treated area does not appear.

Sprinkling on the floor

If your basement floor is earthen, you can lay a thick layer on it. polyethylene film(this will prevent excess moisture from building up).

To do this, do wooden lattices and put them on the floor. Scatter pieces of slaked lime over the film. This will help prevent fungal growth and thus reduce moisture.

How to dry the cellar after flooding

You need to start drying immediately after flooding, as mold forms quickly. First you need to pump out water in a way that is accessible to you. Next, take out all the pieces of furniture. The cover and ventilation hatches should be opened.

When most of the water is removed, you can install fans in the cellar and direct them to the walls of the room. If possible, use a dehumidifier.

A dried room should be treated for fungus with copper sulfate or use a ready-made anti-mold agent. Walls should be whitewashed with lime. Don't forget to use rubber boots and gloves while drying so you don't get electrocuted.

A quick and easy way to dry the basement is shown in the video.

How to dry the cellar in the garage from condensation

To get rid of high humidity in the garage, you should install good system ventilation:

• Install one pipe for inflow, the second for outflow;
• Mount one pipe (through the ceiling or wall) with an exhaust fan.

If the condensate has already entered the garage, you can use several proven methods for removing moisture:

1. Arrange along the perimeter of the walls and on the shelves slaked lime. This will get rid of the fungus and reduce moisture.
2. Spread dry cardboard boxes on the floor. Change as moisture accumulates.
3. Scatter dry sawdust on the floor and change as it gets wet.

You can also use dehumidifiers. The device model for this should be selected with medium power. After the walls are dry, they should be whitewashed with lime.

Every spring, carry out preventive drying. After heavy summer and autumn rains, the room should also be dried. If you carry out preventive work, the fungus will not be terrible for you.