What are seedlings. How to choose seedlings of fruit trees. Average minimum temperatures for nine hardiness zones

SEEDLING

1) fruit, young plant, used for laying fruit plantations. C. are prepared by grafting in special nurseries that release them at the age of 1-2 years. The quality of S. is extremely important when laying gardens. Weak non-standard S. give more waste and develop worse. A special mandatory quality standard has been developed for S..

2) C. forest, transplanted from the place of its emergence to special section nursery (tree school). According to the number of years spent in the school, S. are called the 1st 2-year-old, etc. For planting in the school, the best seedlings are selected, if possible, of the same size; the landing itself is made in the correct rows along the cord.

Agricultural dictionary-reference book. - Moscow - Leningrad: State publishing house of collective and state farm literature "Selkhozgiz". Chief Editor: A. I. Gaister. 1934 .

See what "SEEDLING" is in other dictionaries:

SEEDL, seedling, husband. (S. x.). one. young plant, transplanted from another place (usually about a tree grown in a nursery, as opposed to a seedling). 2. A plant that did not grow from seeds. Onion seedling (from the bulb). Potato seedling (from tubers). ... ... Dictionary Ushakov

Sazhenok, additives Dictionary of Russian synonyms. seedling n., number of synonyms: 5 landings (2) ... Synonym dictionary

seedling- (wrong sapling) ... Dictionary of pronunciation and stress difficulties in modern Russian

A woody plant grown from a seedling or from a cutting. seedlings fruit plants(usually 2 years old) are obtained from grafted seedlings (see Grafting) ... Big Encyclopedic Dictionary

SEEDLING, ntsa, husband. A young plant transplanted from another location (eg from a nursery) as opposed to a seedling. Oak seedlings. Onion s. | adj. seedling, oh, oh (special). Explanatory dictionary of Ozhegov. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova. 1949 1992 ... Explanatory dictionary of Ozhegov

Ntsa; m. A young plant grown from a seedling or cutting, used for planting. seedlings fruit trees. Birch seedlings. Onion seedling (grown from a bulb). ◁ Sapling, oh, oh. With rooted roots. Oh tree. * * * tree sapling… … encyclopedic Dictionary

seedling- nca; m. see also. seedling A young plant grown from a seedling or cutting, used for planting. Fruit tree seedlings. Birch seedlings. Onion seedling (grown from a bulb) ... Dictionary of many expressions

seedling- sodinukas statusas T sritis ekologija ir aplinkotyra apibrėžtis Jaunas augalas, padaugintas ir išaugintas sodinti į nuolatinę vietą (sode, parke, miške). atitikmenys: engl. young plant; sapling; seedling vok. Setzling, m rus. seedling, m ... Ekologijos terminų aiskinamasis žodynas

seedling- skiepas statusas T sritis augalininkystė apibrėžtis Skiepijimo būdu gautas augalas. atitikmenys: engl. graft rus. sapling ...

seedling- medelis statusas T sritis augalininkystė apibrėžtis Jaunas sumedėjęs augalas, išaugęs iš sėjinuko ar atžalos medžių ar vaismedžių medelyne. atitikmenys: engl. sapling rus. sapling ... Žemės ūkio augalų selekcijos ir sėklininkystės terminų žodynas

seedling- sodinukas statusas T sritis augalininkystė apibrėžtis Medelyne išaugintas medelis ar krūmas, tinkamas sodinti į nuolatinę vietą. atitikmenys: engl. sapling rus. sapling ... Žemės ūkio augalų selekcijos ir sėklininkystės terminų žodynas

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• your garden and vegetable garden. What, when and how. All kinds of works by seasons in one book , Bemig Franz , If you are the lucky owner land plot, you probably have a desire to improve it, create beautiful garden and an excellent garden. And all this without much hassle! How to grow ... Category: Encyclopedias and reference books for gardeners and gardeners Publisher: Astrel,
• Ask the tree. Gardener's Handbook, V. V. Burov, This publication reflects the author's experience and long-term observations of the development of country and backyard gardening. The book includes typical questions that cause difficulties for amateur gardeners, with ... Category: Fruit and berry crops Series: Gardener's and Gardener's Library Publisher:

The editors often receive questions about plants that do not take root after planting. This spring we went to the market and looked at what people are buying. Sometimes already on the market it is clear that the seedlings are not viable. They are obviously overdried, but the seller shows freshly watered roots and says that the plants will take root. Dear gardeners, do not be so gullible and learn to choose seedlings. Planting season is not over yet. Now plants can be planted all summer. You need to know which ones to buy.

For most people in our country, the concepts of dacha and garden are inseparable. If there is a plot of land, it means that apples, pears, cherries, some berry bushes... And someone does not want to burden himself with the processing of the crop and recognizes only ornamental plants.

In any case, you need to know what is a quality seedling.

A LITTLE THEORY

A) Depending on the state of the roots, seedlings are divided into categories: with an open (bare) root system, with a clod of earth and container ones.

B) By planting time, fruit plants are divided into several categories:

Shrubs (gooseberries, currants, honeysuckle, blueberries, and others), as well as pome crops (apple, pear, mountain ash, and others) can be planted with an open root system in both spring and autumn. And in containers at any time.

Stone fruit crops (cherries, plums, apricots, sweet cherries) are best planted only in spring if seedlings have a bare root system, or in spring and summer if seedlings are in containers.

1. WHAT IS OPEN ROOT SEEDINGS?

In early spring, when the plant is still dormant, or late autumn, when it has finished its growth and has already prepared for winter (or is in the process), planting material is dug out of the ground in nurseries so that all the earth remains in the field. If the digging time was chosen correctly, and its technology is not violated, then root system the fruit plant is practically not damaged. However, in any case, such plants will be sick for the first year, that is, they will grow lost roots and not give large shoots (sometimes there may be a complete absence of shoots in the first year after transplantation).

This happens due to the detachment of the smallest root formations of the root hairs, which are responsible for the absorption of nutrients, and a certain percentage of the roots. Usually the crown of such plants is practically not formed due to large volumes production and the desire to reduce the cost planting material.

- When can I buy seedlings with a bare root system?

Such plants should be bought only at certain periods when the root system is practically inactive: in the spring, while the buds have not yet woken up (in the conditions of the Moscow region, root growth approximately coincides with bud break). That is, buy at the end of April, beginning of May, or in the fall, the end of September, the beginning of October (it all depends on the weather). For example, hot and dry summer delays digging, as it was in the fall of 2014).

- How should seedlings with a bare root system look like?

Carefully inspect how seedlings are stored in the place where you are going to buy seedlings. The main thing is that the roots do not dry out, but this can be achieved by covering them with some kind of loose material: sawdust, peat. It is worse if wet burlap or a rag is used instead, since such protection against drying out must be monitored by periodically wetting the material, which is not always possible to do in time.

2. WHAT ARE SEEDLINGS DIGGED WITH A Lump?

In many cases, this is the most expensive product. The age of seedlings can be any, but more often from 4-5 years. Digging also takes place in spring or autumn, but planting can be done at any time. A clod of earth is wrapped in burlap or mesh (iron or plastic), it is also possible to combine materials. If the plant is not planted after digging, the lump must be covered or sprinkled with something (burlap, peat, sawdust, etc.) to avoid drying out, or planted in a container.

When buying, check the integrity of the material wrapping the lump: if the burlap is rotten or the mesh is seriously torn, ask the seller in the nursery to re-wrap the lump.

Such plants usually have a well-formed crown, as a result of the annual spring pruning. One of the interesting advantages of this type of seedlings is that you can come to the nursery, taste the fruits of a particular tree and buy it if you like their taste. Of course, this applies to fairly mature seedlings.

- How to plant seedlings with a clod of earth?

The main task during planting such a plant is not to break up a clod of earth. Otherwise, the plant will get sick or even die. When planting, it is better to remove the mesh, especially the iron one, so that the root system can develop freely. When planting a lump in a thin burlap (check the thickness with the sellers), the material can not be removed, cutting off only the top knot. The material will rot in the ground in a few weeks, unlike thick burlap, which, as practice shows, can interfere with the growth of the root system for a long time.

3. WHAT IS CONTAINER SEEDINGS?

The most reliable group of seedlings with the highest survival rate. But in this case, you pay not only for the seedling, but also for the container. For this reason, these plants can often outperform rooted seedlings. Planting can also be done throughout the year.

- How to plant seedlings in containers?

Here it is also very important not to break up the clod of earth. The consequences are the same as described above. Usually, in order to pull the seedling out of the container, it does not require much effort, but in some cases it is even necessary to cut the pot itself, for example, when roots stick out from the bottom of the drainage holes. It is advisable not to tear off such roots and not damage them.

How deep a seedling should be planted depends solely on the crop, so if you don't know for sure, it's a good idea to check with a nursery specialist. At competent landing the root system of seedlings is not damaged, which is extremely beneficial for their further growth and development.

B) The age of the seedling

When buying a seedling with a bare root system, you should not try to save money and take trees for more than three years. The survival rate will be significantly lower than that of one-two-year-olds.

Things are a little different with seedlings dug with a clod of earth. With proper care, the age of the tree does not depend on the survival rate of the seedling, provided that no serious violations were made during digging, transportation and planting.

Container plants have a similar situation, if your apple tree was planted in a container that matches its size (the older the tree, the larger its root system, and therefore the larger its container), then the survival rate will be almost 100%.

G) General requirements to the above ground system.

1. The main trunk or trunks must be without damage (frost holes, mechanical injuries, etc.). This should not be confused with the peeling of the bark of some shrubs, such as honeysuckle, or with the cracking of the bark of old wood in pears.

2. Branches must not be broken. Pruning of broken or damaged branches is allowed either immediately at the time of purchase by the nursery specialists, or independently after planting.

3. Be sure to check if there are live buds on the trunk. This refers to the period when the purchase is made in early spring or late autumn.

4. When buying seedlings with an open root system, carefully examine the roots themselves. They should not have any spherical outgrowths.

5. If plants are leafy, make sure they are free from disease and pests. The leaf should be intact, without spots or outgrowths.

Of course choose good seedling an important matter, but this is just one of the stages on the way to a large and healthy harvest.

Nikitenko Allan, agronomist, employee of the Egorievsk nursery Nikitenko Alexander

The correct location of the garden and its breakdown into beds help to facilitate the work of caring for cultivated plants and help increase yields. Zoning the garden also helps to carry out seasonal work in a timely manner.

Age of seedlings

When choosing seedlings, preference should be given to as young as possible plants, the optimal age of seedlings is not older than 1–2 years. Age has great importance for their successful survival in a new place: than younger seedling the easier it gets accustomed. Age is especially important for seedlings of stone fruit crops. Annual plants take root much better, besides, it is easier to form their crown.

seedlings pome breeds easily adapt to a new place and at the age of two. It is undesirable to purchase seedlings 3–5 years old, since their root system has already reached such a size that it cannot be dug out entirely. Chopped roots carry a serious likelihood of disease, moreover, they are not able to supply water and nutrition to a large mass of the crown. Survival of large-sized fruit trees sometimes lasts for years due to the growth of chopped roots, which can cause them to freeze in a cold winter.

The age of seedlings can be determined by their appearance and building. If the seedling does not have lateral processes, this annual plant, most good age for landing. According to the standards, an annual seedling must be at least 1 m tall and have a well-developed root system. In older plants, roots are destroyed during digging, which adversely affects their survival. A two-year-old seedling has a central conductor and three lateral skeletal branches, evenly extending from it, the length of the roots is at least 30 cm.

Seedling stems

When purchasing seedlings in a nursery, you should pay attention to their boles (trunks). The stems of quality seedlings should be straight, even, with healthy twigs, healthy and smooth bark, with healed wounds, without any damage and defects: sagging, wounds, stains and leaking juice. Also, they should not have signs of frostbite or pest damage.

A good trunk carries a crown with 3-4 or more well-developed healthy branches. A full-fledged two-year-old seedling should have one branching order. He has a direct leading shoot (central conductor). Its lateral branches should be evenly distributed in different sides. It is desirable that they have an angle to the trunk at an angle of 90 °, but in no case less than 45 °.

If the purchase of a seedling is made in the spring, then the condition of the kidneys should be checked - they may be damaged during transportation. There should be no leaves on the branches of the seedling, otherwise the plant quickly loses moisture. In addition, seedlings with already blossoming leaves do not take root well.

The state of the scion and rootstock

A grafted seedling, and at present the majority of them, must have a good condition of the scion and rootstock. The graft must be of high quality, fully matured. You should always pay attention to the type of rootstock on which it is grown. A rootstock is the root part of a grafted seedling that has previously been grafted (grafted). Therefore, the rootstock must have a powerful root system that will facilitate the rooting and development of the seedling. The rootstock also determines the crown habit of the future tree and the timing of fruiting.

The age of vaccination is very important. It is best if the vaccination is done 1.5 years before planting the seedling. A seedling with an open root system, which was vaccinated 4 years ago or more, will lag behind in development, grow more slowly. When purchasing a seedling, you should pay attention to whether there is swelling or thickening at the location of the scion. Such flaws indicate poor compatibility of scion and rootstock. Rootstocks can be of seed and vegetative (clonal) origin.

The type of rootstock is a factor that significantly affects the drought tolerance of fruit plants. The seed stock has more power and drought resistance, so that the fruit plant on it will be much more hardy. In particular, certain species of fruit trees are grown on various rootstocks. So, apricot, peach, plum and cherry plum are grafted on seedlings (rootstocks) of the same species, and on almonds. This difference significantly affects the drought tolerance of the resulting seedling.

WHEN POSTAL DELIVERY OF SEEDLING, it is important to specify the exact date of its receipt - before the onset of frost. Otherwise, a seedling received late will have to be stored until spring, in a basement or other cool place, dug in sand or earth, slightly moistening the entire storage period. Any variety grafted onto almonds is more resistant to lack of moisture. In varieties grafted on peach and apricot, drought resistance is already less. Those varieties that were grafted on cherry plum and plum do not tolerate drought.

Pear seedlings are usually grafted onto seedlings different varieties pears with sufficient drought tolerance. If any other tree is grafted onto a pear seedling, it will be sufficiently resistant to heat and drought. Sometimes, very rarely, a pear is grafted onto quince, hawthorn, shadberry or cotoneaster, these seedlings are already less resistant to heat and drought. Currently, cherry, sweet cherry and apple trees are grown on vegetative (clonal) rootstocks that do not have high drought tolerance. These features must be taken into account when purchasing seedlings. These drought tolerant trees can only be successfully grown with sufficient ground moisture and irrigation.

Root System Status

When choosing a seedling, it is the roots that should be given special attention. A seedling with long and branched roots takes root and grows better and faster. Therefore, the root of the plant must be well developed. It is desirable that its main processes be separated in different directions with relative uniformity. Important general state roots: the less they were damaged during transplantation, the easier it will take root seedlings of fruit trees and shrubs.

First of all, when buying a seedling, you should pay attention to the proportionality of the crown and root system. If the seedling has a large crown and a well-formed trunk, but there are no fibrous, overgrown roots, then enough is offered for sale. mature plant dug out in violation of technology. Such a seedling will have to be grown, investing significant additional care after planting, in order to bring its root system to condition.

When choosing a seedling, you need to carefully examine the root neck - this is the place above the roots. There should be a slight bend here and a round healed wound or stump on it - this is a trace from the cut stock. If the stump or wound is not overgrown by the time of sale, in all likelihood, the seedling is infected with a tinder fungus.

When buying, you should pay close attention to how seedlings of fruit trees and shrubs are laid out for sale. If the seedlings are simply laid out on the ground and the roots of the plants are not protected from drying out, then it is better to refuse to buy, no matter how attractive the plant variety is. Such seedlings may have dry or weathered roots, in all likelihood, they are already dead or on the verge of death. It is better to purchase seedlings from those sellers who place their plants in a trough, bucket or other container with clay mash. In extreme cases, you can take seedlings whose roots are carefully wrapped in a wet rag or burlap.

seedlings fruit bushes and older trees (4–5 years old) are offered for sale with a clod of earth on the roots. If there is a need to purchase such a seedling, then you need to remember that the lump should be the same size as the crown of the plant. It may seem that a large clod of earth more reliably protects the roots from drying out, so the plant will take root better. However, big earthen clod bad in that it hides the true state and number of roots of the seedling.

This indicator does not apply to seedlings offered by foreign companies, their seedlings of fruit plants have a certain standard. This standard is determined by logistics issues, as seedlings are transported in trucks over long distances. According to these requirements, special root pruning is included in the preparation before transportation, due to which a normally absorbing root system is formed with a small coma volume. Usually two types of planting material are offered for sale: seedlings with an open root system and seedlings in a container with a closed root system.

Seedlings with an open root system

The quality of seedlings with an open root system can be determined by visual inspection. The state of the root system of plants indicates the qualitative state of the product, which will successfully take root in new conditions or not take root. In seedlings with an open root system, the roots should be light in color, grow in all directions, and not have any mechanical damage. The roots should be elastic, not break or crack at the folds. If the roots have lost their elasticity, which is manifested in their increased fragility, then they are probably overdried, therefore, either such seedlings will not take root at all, or they will be sick for a long time. Well-developed annual and biennial seedlings with the correct structure of the root system usually have a central trunk (main root) and at least 4–5 branches from it, i.e., main roots. They should be fibrous without growths, it is very important that they do not have any mechanical damage.

IF IT IS SUPPOSED TO FENCE THE FRUIT GARDEN with protective plantings of ornamental trees and shrubs, then they must be placed at a certain distance. Between rows of trees, the gap is 1.5–2 m, between trees in a row - 1–1.25 m. Plant shrubs in rows with a clearance of 0.75–1 m, and in a row 0.5–0.75 m.

The small roots of seedlings are thick and lush. If the seedling has only the main root, but almost no lateral processes or there are very few of them, in all likelihood, this is an older plant that was inaccurately removed from the ground. Planted in the soil, such a seedling may not take root or the grown tree or shrub will get sick. If swellings and nodules are noticeable on the roots, then they are infected with root cancer and are unsuitable for planting. It should be remembered that seedlings with an open root system have a limited period of planting in the ground - no more than two weeks. Therefore, they must be purchased before landing.

Seedlings with a closed root system

Such seedlings are offered for sale in a pot with light soil, i.e. with a closed root system. They are more expensive, but this principle of growing planting material has several advantages. The roots of seedlings with a closed root system are better protected, they are less injured during extraction from the soil, during transportation and when transplanted into the ground on permanent place. In addition, when buying seedlings with a closed root system, the period of planting in the ground is extended.

When buying such a seedling, first of all, you should check if there is any fraud here. To check, just pull the tree by the trunk. If there is an ordinary seedling in a pot, which was simply covered with earth to sell for more high price, then the tree is easily pulled out of the pot. If the plant sits firmly in the soil or its roots have sprouted through the pot, this indicates good quality seedling. When a lump is poorly rooted, the soil crumbles from it, although this seedling was grown in a container, it was recently transplanted for an unknown reason, and it is likely that the roots were damaged. It is better not to take such a plant.

Continuing to check the quality of a seedling grown in a container, you should carefully examine the earthen clod. It can indicate the prescription of its formation. Such a lump is densely intertwined with the root system of the seedling, it does not crumble and has a certain amount of weeds or moss. Also, a dense dense interweaving of an earthy coma with roots indicates good development root system. Then you need to pay attention to the actual root system. Sometimes the roots grow into the soil through drainage system. In preparation for sale, the seller can cut them at the level of the container to give them a neat look. Cutting the roots of a seedling is unacceptable, because this causes healthy roots to become diseased. A diseased root system will definitely remind of itself when the seedling is rooted, this process will stretch in time or the plant will not take root at all.

Quality seedlings with a closed root system usually have roots sticking out of holes in the bottom of the container. They need to be carefully examined, you can even scratch them a little with your fingernail. Usually the wood at the living roots is pure white color. The color of wood in dried and diseased roots is yellowish gray. The brown, darkened color of the root on the section indicates that the plant probably froze in winter or got sick. Dead roots are usually brown or black.

Video: How to choose the right apple seedling

No one will argue that in any case, in order for it to be of high quality, the source material is important. This is especially true for crop production and horticulture. good seeds - good harvest even under adverse conditions. This is an axiom. And it happens - you plant a seedling of a tree or grapes, and he "sits" for many years. Even feeding does not help. Although other trees and shrubs grow beautifully nearby. There can be many reasons. But the main ones are a poor-quality seedling, improper planting or caring for it.

In order to help understand the issue of buying and caring for seedlings, this article was written.

Seedling classification

From the definition encyclopedic dictionary it is known that a seedling is a plant grown from a seedling or cuttings. Seedlings are obtained from grafted seedlings - one (two) year old plants that have grown from seeds.

Saplings of fruit trees and shrubs to achieve the goal - collection summer harvest require a special approach to personal care, including timely processing from pests, the formation of the correct earthen clod, care of the root system, the formation of the proportionality of the seedling and other methods.

According to the classification, all seedlings can be divided into 4 types:

1. With exposed roots that are dug out of the ground and transported without soil. To prevent the roots from drying out, they are wrapped wet material. These seedlings take root very well, but they must be planted at rest (that is, deciduous tree- the seedling must be planted before the opening of the kidneys on it). For these purposes, the period of October-November is optimal.
2. FROM earthy clod, which surrounds the roots of the seedling. Digging up a seedling occurs without disturbing its root system, and an earthen ball is wrapped in polyethylene. In this case, special attention is paid to the earthy coma, which should not collapse, exposing the roots, should not dry out and should be of impressive size, covering the roots of the plant as a whole. Usually seedlings are transplanted in this way conifers trees. Optimum time for planting: September-October, April-May.
3. In the packaging, which is used plastic bags or boxes. The root system of such seedlings is sprinkled with wet peat. The disadvantage of such seedlings is that being in warm conditions, they can give premature growth. The period for their landing in the ground is October-March.
4. In a container, being the most the best option, because they are grown from seed in a pot, and then transplanted into a container. Their planting is carried out throughout the year at a time convenient for the gardener. This method of growing seedlings is acceptable for all types of trees and shrubs.

Selection rules

The sale of seedlings is represented by 2 types of seedlings: with an open and closed root system. When buying a seedling, you need to pay attention to it quality characteristics because the result depends on it. The quality of seedlings with an open root system can be seen by visual inspection of the seedling. The state of the root system, namely its elasticity (prevention of drying out, manifested in increased fragility of the roots at the fold), its correct structure in the form of the presence of a central trunk and branches from it in the amount of 4-5 pieces (fibrous without growths), the absence of any mechanical damage indicates a high percentage a quality product that will successfully take root in the new conditions. But only this species seedlings has a limited time for planting in the ground - a maximum of 2 weeks, therefore, it is purchased accordingly for planting. The second type of seedlings (with a closed root system) is more expensive than the first, but has a number of advantages. Firstly, with this type of seedling cultivation, its root system is preserved, which does not undergo unnecessary injury during transplantation into the ground. Secondly, the period of landing in the ground is extended. To determine the quality of a seedling grown in a container, they carefully examine the earthen clod, which can tell about the age of its formation (does not crumble and has a densely intertwined seedling root system, a certain amount of weeds, moss) and pay attention to the root system. Sometimes it happens that the roots grow into the ground through the drainage system, and the seller cuts them at the level of the container, which is unacceptable. A diseased root system will make itself felt when the seedling takes root.

Buying tree seedlings, while choosing high-quality ones that will easily take root and subsequently give a good harvest, is not an easy task. To do this, you need to stock up on some knowledge:

1. The acquisition of one-year-olds (two-year-olds) is preferable to older seedlings, which is associated with their better survival rate, which lasts for years in large sizes due to the growth of chopped roots. Chopped roots and poor survival can cause them to freeze in a cold winter.
2. Proportionality of crown and root system. With a large crown and a well-formed trunk, but the absence of fibrous (overgrowing) roots, it can be judged that an adult plant, dug out in violation of technology, is being sold. For such a "seedling" additional post-planting care is required.
3. Standardization of seedling sizes. A two-year-old seedling has a central conductor and 3 lateral skeletal branches extending from it, the length of the roots is not less than 30 cm.

Rules for planting seedlings and post-planting care

In the autumn, when the main harvest has already been harvested, the personal plot and the profitability of the “farm” was analyzed, the issue of the need to purchase and the place where to buy seedlings of new varieties is being resolved. Autumn is the most optimum time year, because, like the market, and the seedling nursery, they present a wide range of various varieties of seedlings. However, weakly winter-hardy seedlings should not be planted immediately in the ground, it is better to dig them in. Planting them is optimal in early spring.

For digging, a dry, elevated and wind-protected place with highly fertile and slightly loamy soil is selected. Peat and humus are added to sandy soil, sand is added to clay soil at the rate of 2 buckets per 1 m2, after which everything is thoroughly mixed and loosened. Next, a groove 35x35 cm is dug in the west-east direction and seedlings are laid in it with a slope to the south. Seedlings are sprinkled with earth (the base of the trunk is 10 cm) and evenly watered. Poisoned branches are laid out around the pit thorny plants(rosehip) for rodent control. After the snow melts (if there is a lot of it during the winter, then it is better to discard it a little from the buried seedlings, leaving them about 40 cm), you need to dig up the seedlings and inspect them before planting. You can make a small incision in the bark and wood at the base of the roots. Light brown bark and greenish-white wood are evidence of the absence of freezing.

Planting of seedlings is carried out in early spring in a pit for shrubs and trees necessarily prepared for this in advance or a trench for a hedge. At the bottom of the prepared pit or trench, a layer of soil is laid out, pre-mixed with fertilizer, which is suitable for peat, compost or rotted manure. Fertilizer is not used only in case of planting coniferous varieties, because it can lead to overheating of the root system and the death of the plant. For all seedlings, when planting, there is a single rule: the root neck should in no case be deepened, otherwise this leads to decay of the bark and death of the plant. For this purpose, the root neck is sprinkled with earth for a maximum of 2 cm. In addition to directly planting the seedling in the ground, it needs additional help in the form of a support, which can be represented either by a stake located 10 cm from the stem of the seedling, or by thick twine or wire, as in the case with the formation of a hedge. Next, I help the plant abundant watering, shading it and diving it according to the timing.