Formation of the cherry crown according to the system. Proper and timely pruning of cherries as a guarantee of a bountiful harvest. Proper tiered formation

Pruning fruit trees allows you to correctly form the crown, which increases crop yields. All to be trimmed garden trees, including cherries, which can be cut according to the scheme in spring and autumn. The article will be illustrated by colorful photos and videos, which will help even inexperienced beginners to properly prune a cherry orchard.

Why you need to prune cherry trees

Many summer residents believe that it is better not to practice pruning. stone fruit trees, especially sweet cherries and cherries, allowing the trees to grow naturally.

To agree with this is not quite right. Formative pruning of stone fruits allows you to improve the crown of trees (dried branches and branches are cut out, which serve as additional gates for the penetration of harmful infections and pests into the wood). Removal of branches growing inside the crown during pruning opens up air access, this operation can significantly reduce the risk of developing pathological fungal infections.

When pruning, a strong skeleton of a tree is formed, the height of the trunk is reduced, which facilitates harvesting, and simplifies the work on processing the garden from pests.

Advice! Strong healthy tree- pledge bountiful harvest Regular pruning helps to encourage fruiting.

Types of pruning cherries

In horticulture, three types of pruning of cherry trees are used:

Tree pruning schemes in the cherry orchard

The classical scheme of sweet cherry formation is sparse-tiered. As a result, 8 branches of the main skeleton remain on one tree, arranged in three tiers. The lower tier consists of 3-4 main branches, which should be directed to different sides(no overhanging of branches over each other is allowed).
The second tier rises 60 cm above the first, and the gaps between the branches of the second tier are up to half a meter.

First year (pruning when planting a seedling)

One-year-old cherry seedling planted in the garden on permanent place, already to be trimmed. For the correct formation of the crown, certain rules are followed:

1. In the southern regions of Russia, it is customary to leave a bole up to 60 cm, the further north, the lower the height of the bole - in the northern and black earth regions, a cherry tree is formed on a bole of 30-40 cm.
2. For pruning, use a sharp, clean knife; preparations should be prepared in advance to protect the cut site: Oil paint, garden pitch, special protective mastics. Smear the sections in order to exclude the possibility of penetration of infections through the wound surfaces.

Important! It should be remembered that about 6 buds are left at the top of a one-year-old cutting, from which the skeletal branches of the first tier will subsequently develop.

The first pruning is usually carried out in the spring months.

The second year of growing cherries: rules for pruning a two-year-old seedling

Pruning of a two-year-old tree is carried out in the spring, and it is important not to delay the procedure. Quite strong branches have developed from the buds left in the first year, of which 3-4 pieces are left. The remaining branches are cut near the trunk; hemp is not allowed to be left.

The remaining branches should be harmoniously located around the trunk, without touching. It is supposed to cut the branches of the first tier, leaving up to 50 cm in length. Simultaneously with pruning the branches of the first tier, in the second spring, the main stem of the sweet cherry is shortened. 4 buds are counted from the topmost branch of the 1st tier and the upper part of the trunk is trimmed sharp knife. The cut points are reliably covered with special means.

Third year: spring pruning of the cherry tree

The scheme for pruning a cherry tree in the third spring is carried out according to the following rules: one is determined on the branches of the first tier, with the worst annual growth. This branch is not pruned, and the remaining branches of the first order are truncated to the size of the weakest.

Advice! At the same time, all branches growing deep into the crown are pruned.

In the second tier, skeletal branches of the second order are formed, while it is worthwhile to strictly ensure that the branches grow outward and are approximately at an equal distance from the trunk.

Advice! The branches of the second order are shortened by about 10 cm more than the branches of the sweet cherry of the 1st tier.

After pruning the branches, they proceed to the formation of the main trunk of the sweet cherry, for which they retreat 50 cm from the second tier and leave from 4 to 6 buds, which will give rise to branched branches of the 3rd order. The value of the future harvest depends on the angle of the directed growth of the branches: largest harvest harvested from horizontal branches.

Fourth year: pruning cherries in spring

The central trunk of the tree should be cut to the weakest side shoot, such an operation will help limit the height of the sweet cherry. All side shoots pruned, leaving no more than 80 cm on the shoots of the 2nd and 3rd tiers, the branches of the first tier are cut more strongly - they leave up to half a meter of the length of the shoots.

In the fourth year, not only pruning of the branches of the main skeleton is carried out, but also strong shoots on the skeletal branches are shortened. At the same time, they strictly monitor the direction of growth of the branches - all shoots directed inside the crown are mercilessly removed. One of the two crossing shoots is also removed.

In the fifth, sixth and subsequent years, cherry pruning is carried out similarly to the 4-year scheme, while shoots on skeletal branches are removed: weak, underdeveloped, broken, with growth directed inside the crown tent. The central trunk and main skeletal branches are shortened by no more than half a meter.

Spring pruning cherries: video

Cherry pruning: photo

Basic techniques for the formation of cherry trees

In terms of prevalence in gardens, cherry ranks second after the apple tree. This is explained by its undemanding to growing conditions. In order for the productivity of this fruit crop was on the very high level, it is required to carry out proper care. The correct formation of the cherry crown has a greater influence on the yield indicators.

Why is it necessary to form

The need for the formation of cherries is associated with its biological features growth and development. In the spring, you can often see it abundant flowering, because of the flowers, shoots are not even visible. But after 2-3 weeks, most of the ovary begins to crumble and by the time of harvest, only single fruits remain on the tree.

Many gardeners explain this phenomenon large quantity empty flowers. But this statement is only partly true. In the cherry tree, all the buds are simple, that is, they are either flower or vegetative. In spring, the flowers located along the periphery of the crown are the first to open. It is they who create the illusion of mass flowering.

But at the time of dissolution, most of them are no longer viable. Cherry buds are easily damaged by late spring frosts or severe winter frosts. Another part of the kidneys simply does not have time to pollinate. During the flowering period of the cherry tree, the activity of insect pollinators is still quite low.

Another significant part of the future crop dies at the ovary stage. An unformed tree simply cannot cope with a huge load and throws off most of the fruits. In most cases, it is this factor, and not the barren flower, that has the most big influence for productivity.

Factors affecting the choice of cropping method

According to the nature of growth, all existing varieties of cherries can be divided into tree and bush varieties. At tree varieties fruits are located on special branches. In horticulture, they are called bouquets. They can bear fruit for several years. Also on their tops is formed small increase. With the implementation of timely and correct pruning these growths are quite well developed and many flower buds are formed on them. If the rules of formation are not observed, the trees begin to be exposed, and, accordingly, flower buds are laid on them much less.

Varieties of bush cherry buds are laid a little differently. They bear fruit only on annual shoots. The number of flower buds on them depends on their length. The growth length of 30-50 cm is considered optimal. It is with this indicator that approximately the same ratio of flower and vegetative buds is observed on the shoot. That is, the tree continues to fully develop while maintaining yield indicators.

Cherry trees must be formed in strict accordance with the above signs. Only if these requirements are met, they will be able to bear fruit abundantly and fully develop for many years.

pruning

The formation of a cherry tree should begin at the seedling stage. The more well-developed shoots on it, the better. There will be plenty to choose from when shaping. Usually, no more than 5-6 well-developed shoots are left on it as the main skeletal branches. The height of the trunk at the time of pruning should be no more than 25-30 cm. Everything that grows below it is completely removed. On the trunk itself, only extra poorly developed shoots are cut.

Attention! When pruning a cherry seedling, stumps should not be left. Subsequently, they dry out, and the bark around them dies, which leads to such an undesirable phenomenon as gum disease.

Regardless of the time of planting the seedling, the first pruning of young cherries is carried out in the spring. They begin to form cherries in the spring before the start of sap flow and swelling of the kidneys. If for some reason the deadlines were missed, then all work is transferred to the next year. Forming cherry trees in the fall is unacceptable. This can lead to their weakening and freezing in the winter.

In a young cherry tree, buds can wake up along the entire length of the shoots. That is why it is very important to form seedlings in a timely manner. If this event is late, a strong thickening of the crown will occur.

In the process of pruning, shoots directed inside the crown should be removed. Leaving them does not make any sense, since they still will not be able to fully develop. In tree varieties, it is necessary to form up to 10 main shoots on each tree, in bush varieties up to 15. Moreover, in both those and others, they should be evenly placed on the surface of the trunk.

In the presence of free space around trees, lateral branching of shoots can not be limited. If they develop in the wrong direction, then shaping pruning will also help redirect them.

Features of the formation of adult trees

After the crown is fully formed, it is imperative to ensure that there is no weakening of annual growth. A significant decrease in their growth rate will be a signal for anti-aging pruning.

Do not delay with its implementation. The exposure of overgrown shoots occurs very quickly. The shoots formed during anti-aging pruning are cut to the first large branching. Bush cherry is cut in this way. For example, this method can be used to form the "Vladimir" cherry.

Pruning of tree varieties is carried out in a similar way, only during it the removal of annual shoots is carried out. In this way, for example, the formation of the “Chocolate Girl” cherry is carried out.

The method of forming the "Spanish bush"

The Spanish bush system is used when laying industrial plantations crops such as cherries and cherries. According to her, the crown of the tree is formed by the so-called fan. It consists of a short trunk and 5-6 skeletal shoots. The growth restriction of such cherries occurs at a height of 2-2.5 meters. This allows fruit to be harvested without the use of special devices for lifting.

Cherry is a tall plant. If the growth point is not stopped in time, the culture takes on a pyramidal shape and becomes unproductive. The height of the plant can reach 5-6 m. The formation of sweet cherries according to the type of the Spanish bush can significantly increase productivity and facilitate tree care.

Formation goals

The pruning scheme was first tested by Spanish gardeners in industrial plantings. The tree is transformed into a bush by stopping the growth point. The method allows you to land a large number of cherries in a small area.

Benefits of using a Spanish bush shaping scheme:

• maximum plant height 2.5 m;
• on the small area you can plant the main variety and pollinators;
• the method of planting 3.5x4 m allows not only to save space, but also to improve the quality of the crop due to the optimal area required for nutrition, good illumination of the central part of the trunk.

The only negative is the weak resistance of plants to the effects low temperatures with this formation. The technology is expedient only in warm regions of the country.

Landing

plant trees better in spring. Choose 2 year old seedlings with a healthy root system. Prepare the soil in advance in the fall. Apply organic fertilizers, bring sand to the loam. Dig up the area. In the spring, mark up the holes.

The size of the planting pit is 60x60x60 cm. Too moisture-intensive soil can cause the development of fungal diseases and root rot. In such a situation, lay a layer of drainage on the bottom of the hole. Only then lay a layer consisting of:

• soil;
• compost;
• peat.

You need to fill the hole about halfway, giving the embankment a hilly shape. On this elevation it will be necessary to place root system. Gently cover it with soil. When the root neck is at ground level, the soil in the hole must be tamped and spilled with water.

Stages of bush formation

The Spanish bush cherry formation scheme includes several stages.

1. Stopping the point of growth, the formation of skeletal branches of the first order.
2. Giving the branches a horizontal direction, shortening unnecessary shoots.
3. Crown thickening adjustment.

First year

A year after planting, at the end of March, until the growing season begins, you need to shorten the bole. Height can be 30-70 cm, but not higher. It depends entirely on the location of the kidneys. You need to choose the most developed, looking in different directions.

Step back 10 cm from the last kidney and pinch off the growth point. Reniform formations, which are located in the interval of the trunk from the last powerful kidney to the cut edge, must be removed. During the growth period, select the 4 strongest, cut off the rest. Those left behind will become the skeleton of the first tier.

Give the shoots an arrangement of 60 cm relative to the trunk. This can be done by tying branches with ropes to stakes, or by placing clothespins over the shoots. Growing up, the branches begin to bend upward. To maintain the direction originally set, the ends are weighted with a small weight. When the shoots reach a length of more than 50 cm, they all need to be cut to the same level. It will turn out that the upper branches will be only 20 cm, and the lower ones about 50.

Pruned shoots will release branches of the second order by the end of the season. The most powerful ones need to be transferred to fruit or completely cut off, leaving no stumps.

Second year

By this time, you will already have a small cherry tree with short shoots of the first tier and long shoots of the second. Formation is carried out before bud break, while the branches are still soft. At the same time, you need to remove the thorn left when stopping the growth point last year.

On the site, place the wires parallel, slightly rising above ground level. The step between them should be at least 1 m. In the first tier, on each branch of the skeleton, find the lowest shoot. Attach it to the wire using a rope. The crown will become wider, open.

The formation procedure is suspended until the buds open. During the flowering period, the shoots attached to the wire must be shortened to 25 cm. Feel free to remove even shoots with flowers. Spend the cut on the outer bud, leaving a spike of 10 cm. In summer, when the sprouts reach a height of 60 cm, carry out a similar procedure with tying, and shorten the remaining branches to 30 cm.

Third year

During this period, the formation is reduced to adjusting the density of the crown. All branches exceeding a height of 2.5 m are pruned. You also need to remove branches of branched shoots, leaving only 2.

Every year, 1 part of all flowering shoots of the 1st branch of the skeleton is subject to pruning. Thus, rejuvenation is carried out, which ensures the appearance of new fruit-bearing shoots. A similar procedure is carried out every 4 years. The skeletal branch is cut to 30 cm.

Annual thinning of the crown

When the formation is completed, it remains to maintain the proper appearance. Sanitary pruning involves the removal of:

• shoots in the middle of the crown;
• branches in contact with the crowns of other plants in the area exceeding the level of 2.5 m;
• skeletal shoots of the first tier, due to this there is a transfer to another shoot;
• young shoots, heavily covered with close shoots.

We carry out the procedure correctly

Proper pruning is not so difficult, the main thing is to follow sanitary and hygienic rules. In order not to make a mistake, follow the instructions.

• Prepare in advance garden tools: secateurs, hacksaw.
• Treat inventory with alcohol. If you intend to form several trees, thoroughly disinfect the tool after each plant.
• Before pruning, inspect the trunk carefully. The stem must be shortened above the kidney. Please note: the lower you leave the trunk, the greater the growth of side shoots will be.
• Rejuvenating shaping involves shortening the skeletal branches. Don't cut them too close to the trunk. This will create holes in the barrel. Too long stumps will prevent the plant from developing, and can cause decay.
• At the trunk level, all leaves are to be removed, they only take away in vain nutrients.
• Do not leave the trunk above 70 cm, otherwise the skeletal branches will begin to form too high.
• Cut one-year-old shoots in accordance with the scheme, without shortening much, otherwise the crown will be too thick, and fertility will begin to decline.

If your seedling is frozen, carry out a sanitary pruning. Remove all dead branches. The formation of the crown in such cases involves the use of healthy branches as the skeleton, located most conveniently.

Branch types

It is quite difficult for beginner gardeners to figure out which branches to leave and which to remove. In order to avoid mistakes, you need to remember the classification of shoots in appearance.

• Growth: form leaf and fruit buds. To limit growth, they are shortened or removed completely in the fall.
• Mixed: are powerful branches. are playing important role in crop growth. They form leaves and fruits.
• Bouquet: shortened shoots not exceeding 30 cm. Branches bring 90% of the crop. For young plant shoots play an auxiliary role. During the first 4-5 years, they are used as branching stimulants, for which multiple growth buds are partially removed.
• Fruit or generative: shorter than bouquet (20 cm), do not bear fruit, the ovaries immediately crumble. The remaining fruits, ripening, are very different from those that are formed on bouquet sprouts. Branches die off on their own in winter.
• Tops: branches that do not form fruits, thick, arranged vertically. They can be a good base for the skeleton if the plant is very cold in winter.
• Premature or summer: grows from buds on mixed shoots. They form throughout the season. Branches too thin to bear fruit and survive winter cold. They are usually removed in autumn or spring.

Conclusion

Sweet cherry, formed according to the type of the Spanish bush, is a bole no higher than 2.5 m, highly branched. Skeletal shoots are laid strictly horizontally, which makes it possible to achieve a good stable yield. The method is only suitable for southern regions. In the northern regions, the plant will not be able to survive the winter.

Important nuances and the most common cherry pruning schemes

With rare exceptions, cherry varieties released for cultivation in Russia, in particular the Moscow region, show excellent growth rates. Therefore, the fight against unwanted growth in the garden is slightly reminiscent of the battle of Hercules with the Lernaean Hydra. But inept actions will cause the tree more harm than good. Therefore, it is important to know when and how to prune.

Why are cherries pruned?

The harvest of sweet cherries is highly dependent on care, including well-performed pruning.

Some gardeners planting a seedling fruit tree, do not consider it necessary to cut it, believing that nature knows best. This is a common misconception. On trees with a dense, sloppy crown, there are significantly fewer fruits than on those that are cared for, and the taste of cherries cannot be compared at all.

In addition to a positive effect on the crop, pruning has other purposes:

Crown formation. Branches are cut not haphazardly, but according to a certain pattern. The rest are arranged in such a way that the fruits ripening on them get the necessary heat and sunlight.
Prevention of many diseases caused by fungi and bacteria, fight against harmful insects. The thinned crown is blown through by the wind. Otherwise stagnant wet air creates an ideal environment for the reproduction of pathogenic fungi and bacteria, eggs and insect larvae.
Increasing cold resistance. The reason is the same - wet cold air contributes to the formation of condensate on the branches and trunk, the development of rot. A strong "skeleton" withstands the weight of snow much better.
Extending the life of a tree. Old, dried up, dead, affected by diseases and pests, simply poorly located branches take away nutrients from healthy fruit-bearing shoots.
Minimization of efforts aimed at caring for a tree, pest control, harvesting. This is especially true for older gardeners. Too high and sprawling cherries cannot be looked after purely physically. You won't be able to get to the berries either.
cherry harvest
Sweet cherry harvest depends on many factors, including proper, timely and regular pruning.

What are the branches?

If you do not want to lose your crop by removing all the branches on which the fruit ovaries are formed, you need to know which shoots are formed on the sweet cherry and whether they bear fruit. In total, six types of shoots are distinguished:

Rostovye. They form exclusively leaf and growth buds. If you want to limit the growth of a tree, remove them from the fall so that the buds and future fruiting ovaries get enough nutrients in the spring.
Mixed. The thickest shoots. They have both leaves and fruits. They are critical for fruiting next season.
Bouquet. Short (no more than 30 cm) thin branches, on which up to 90% of berries ripen. In young trees, such branches are auxiliary - many small cherries are tied on them, most of which quickly crumble. The first 4–5 years, their value lies in the densely arranged growth buds. During this time, they are cut to encourage further branching, then left untouched.
Fruit (they are also generative). Even shorter than bouquets (about 20 cm). Contrary to the name, they hardly bear fruit. The tied cherries crumble almost immediately, the ripe ones are much inferior in size and palatability oh those that are removed from the bouquet branches. You do not need to cut them in the fall. Most likely, once having brought a “harvest”, they will die off on their own in winter.
Tops. Thick vertically growing branches that never bear fruit. If the tree has been badly damaged by winter frosts, do not remove them next fall. This is a good base to re-start to form a crown.
Summer (or premature). Very thin twigs that form during the season from growing points on mixed shoots. This year there will be no fruiting, they will most likely not live until next summer.
Most right time for the procedure

A tree that has lost a significant part of its green mass at once is under severe stress, from which it may not recover. Therefore, it is advisable to break the procedure into several stages.

Cherries cannot be pruned in winter. Even varieties zoned in temperate regions react negatively to cold. The wood becomes brittle, crumbles, the cuts do not heal for a long time. The only exception is the anti-aging pruning carried out every 5–7 years. For the procedure, choose, as far as possible, a warm February day. It is easy to determine whether the time has come - the yield is noticeably reduced, the fruits are smaller

In the spring, you definitely need to be in time before the leaf buds come out of hibernation, but the cherries are cut only when the temperature is above zero at night. In this case, the injury to the tree will be minimal. Depending on the climate, the buds begin to swell from the second decade of March to the first days of April. Spring - best time to form a crown. Therefore, special attention is paid to skeletal branches. You also need to get rid of all shoots affected by frost. If the tree has already begun to bear fruit steadily, the crown is thinned out, removing all unsuccessfully located shoots that thicken it. Basically they grow deep and down. In no case do not cut off the very tips of the branches and do not touch the growth buds.

Not all gardeners recognize summer pruning. Opponents of such a procedure believe that it severely injures the tree, forcing it to drastically rebuild sap flow patterns. But, in principle, there is nothing wrong with it. Before the onset of cold weather, properly made cuts will have time to heal.

The procedure is divided into two stages. The first time the cherry is pruned immediately after it blooms (the first decade of June). Last year's shoots are shortened, removing from a quarter to a third of the length. This encourages the tree to branch further. If you see that the shoot is not growing as it should, pinch its tip. Such a minimum effort will help correct the direction of growth. The next pruning is 7-10 days after the end of fruiting.

With autumn pruning you need to be in time before the end of September in areas with a temperate climate and until mid-October in warmer regions. If you delay, the sections will not have time to overgrow before frost. Be sure to wait for the leaves to fall. The main attention is paid to sanitary pruning - all branches that are broken, dried up, damaged by diseases and insects, without fruit ovaries are cut off. You also need to get rid of shoots located at too sharp an angle to the trunk or vertically. This procedure significantly increases the frost resistance of cherries. Some gardeners prefer not to thin out the crown, but to shorten the branches. All annual shoots are cut to a third. Trees planted in spring in the autumn of the same season are not touched.

It is best to use a garden saw in autumn. It injures the wood less, the cuts heal faster than the “wounds” from the secateurs.

How to form a tree correctly?

Pruning cherries is a procedure that takes into account many nuances, but it is in many ways similar to caring for cherries.

Cherries can be cut in different ways. It depends on the varieties. The most important thing is how tall the tree will grow, whether the crown is spreading and thickened.

Popular cropping methods

fan-shaped crown

To form a “fan” from a tree, the sweet cherry is cut annually - in the spring. The crown takes on the proper form for the fourth season after landing, then it will only be necessary to maintain the achieved result. This option is suitable for low trees with a spreading crown, similar to a bush.

A year after planting, select two strong straight branches growing against each other, cut the rest to the point of growth. The central shoot is also shortened to the place from which one of the selected branches grows, which is located above.
The future “ribs” of the fan are tied with a rope to pegs driven into the ground so that they move away from the trunk at an angle of 60–65º. If you can’t bend it right away, increase the angle gradually.
The following spring, the “ribs” are cut off, leaving about 0.3 m. All the branches growing down and deep are cut off from them, leaving only those that are well located. Growth buds are not touched.
In the third year, last year's branches are shortened to a length of 0.45–0.5 m. The central shoot is cut again, leaving no more than 0.3 m above the last suitable growth bud.
To maintain the chosen crown shape, each spring cut branches that are intertwined with others, growing inwards and downwards. After the cherry blossoms, all branches that do not have fruit ovaries (with the exception of the “ribs” of the fan) are shortened, leaving no more than 6 leaves. In the middle of autumn, cut them again by 1/3. If the cherry grows next to a wall, fence, or other barrier, you need to remove all the branches that rise above it.
fan-shaped crown
A fan-shaped crown is best suited for low-growing varieties of cherries

bushy crown

This pruning is optimal for low-stem varieties of sweet cherries. Your task is to evenly arrange 10–14 fruit-bearing branches on the shortened main shoot. A properly formed crown resembles a ball.

For the next spring after planting, 3–4 more or less symmetrically located branches are selected and cut off, leaving no more than 0.4 m (3–4 growth buds). The central conductor is cut to the growth point of the last of them. If there are branches down the trunk, they are shortened to 0.25 m. It is impossible to cut them completely yet - they strengthen the trunk. You can get rid of these shoots only after 4-5 years, when the trunk reaches the optimum thickness.
A year later, all last year's shoots are shortened by 10–15 cm. The previously selected branches are not touched.
In the spring of the third year, in addition to the already existing skeletal branches, 7–10 pieces are selected from those that are 2 years old. They all need to be shortened to a length of 0.6–0.75 m. Weaker and thinner side branches are cut off, leaving no more than three growth buds. Branches pointing vertically upwards are removed completely.
bushy crown
In summer, a sweet cherry with a bushy crown looks like a ball

tiered crown

This is what a classic tree should look like. The method is suitable for tall varieties cherries with a not too thickened crown.

A newly planted seedling is cut to a length of 1 m. If the tree is shorter, it is not touched.
Next spring, 3-4 skeletal branches evenly spaced around the trunk are selected, shortening them so that the tops are located approximately in the same plane. The central shoot is again shortened to 1 m if it has reached a greater length. The remaining branches are cut in half.
A year later, at a distance of at least 0.5 m (preferably 0.7 m) from the first, a second tier is laid, acting in the same way. It should have one branch less (the same applies to the third tier).
On the lower tier on each of the skeletal branches, three of the most successfully located, growing up branches are left. It is best if they are at the beginning, approximately in the middle and towards the end of the shoot. For safety net, you can leave 1-2 "spare" branches, but no more. Other annual shoots are cut to the point of growth.
A year later, the third and last tier is laid, the second is treated in the same way as with the first last year. At the lower level, three branches are also left on the selected last year's shoots, getting rid of the rest of the shoots. The central conductor is cut 0.7 m above the last tier.
The tiers are formed so that the branches of each subsequent one are slightly, but noticeably shorter than the shoots of the previous one.
In the future, you can limit yourself to sanitary pruning of the crown. If the variety you have chosen does not branch well, cut the branches only when they grow to 0.6 m, removing no more than a third (preferably a quarter). Shortening very small shoots will negatively affect the future harvest.
tiered crown
A well-formed tiered cherry crown resembles a pyramid

"Spanish bush"

As you might guess, the birthplace of this pruning method is the Iberian Peninsula. "Spanish Bush" allows you to effectively restrain the growth of trees, compact plantings, give ripening fruits to get enough heat and sunlight. There are also disadvantages - abundant fruiting is delayed for 1-2 years, sweet cherries often suffer from frosts - both winter and return spring. In the latter case, the crop is likely to die completely, unlike tall trees, which keep the buds closer to the top intact.

The following spring, after planting, the cherries are cut to a height of 0.35–0.7 m. The specific value depends on how high you want to place the main skeletal branches from the ground, and whether there are growth buds on the central shoot.
When the shoots from the growth buds on the central shoot reach a length of 0.5-0.6 m (usually this happens during the summer), they are cut so that the tops are 10-15 cm above the "guide". Most often there are no more than four such branches. If this is not the case, leave the strongest ones, and cut the rest to the point of growth. The angle of inclination can be corrected by tying branches to pegs.
Next fall, trellises are built along the cherry plantings on both sides. All annual shoots that have reached a length of 0.5–0.6 m are tied to them. They do this in such a way as to obtain a symmetrical open crown.
In spring, the tree is not touched. A year later, the tied branches and annual shoots located on the sides are cut to a length of 0.25 m. Those that grow in the center of the crown or parallel to the ground are left intact. Shortened shoots will begin to branch intensively, and on untouched ones in next year the first harvest must be ripe.
pruning spanish bush
The "Spanish bush" pruning scheme is mainly used in southern Europe, even in Poland and Bulgaria it is used with caution, the risk of losing the crop is quite high

"Spanish bush" requires constant support from the gardener. Since the lion's share of the crop is taken from thin and young annual branches hidden in the middle of the structure, they need to be renewed annually. About a quarter of the shoots that brought the crop are cut off in the fall. A complete renewal, therefore, occurs in 4 years. The procedure can be carried out both in autumn and next spring.

We should not forget about shortening the branches under the root, preventing the fruits from receiving light and heat, thickening the crown. Optimal Height tree - no more than 2.5 m. All branches that go beyond the specified dimensions are cut to the desired length.

"Australian Bush"

In this case, a low crown is laid near the sweet cherry from the very beginning - this greatly facilitates harvesting. The presence of several equivalent trunks helps to "balance" the design.

Immediately after planting, the seedling (bare twig) is shortened to 0.5 m.
During the summer, side shoots appear from the growth buds. Of these, 4 of the strongest and strongest are left, located at approximately the same distance from each other.
When the shoots reach a length of 3–5 cm, ordinary clothespins are fixed directly above the growth point perpendicular to the trunk. This will help correct the direction, making the branches almost horizontal. With proper care warm sunny summer shoots add well in length, growing up to 0.8–1.2 m.
The following spring, all growth buds directed inside the crown are cut off. On skeletal shoots, only those branches that grow more or less gently are left. The resulting design should resemble a vase for fruit.
In the third year, on the skeletal branches, all the shoots of this year are cut to a length of 8–10 cm. Otherwise, it will obscure the bouquet branches on which the cherry ripens.
In the future, in the fall, the entire annual growth is regularly pruned, preventing the tree from going beyond the specified dimensions. Do not forget about sanitary pruning, removing everything that obscures the crown.
Every 5–6 years, a rejuvenating pruning is carried out, removing about a fifth of the fruit-bearing branches. Leave "stumps" 3-5 cm high, from which new shoots will appear.
Additional advantages of the procedure

In addition to crown formation, pruning can also serve other purposes:

Limiting the growth of the tree up. The main thing is to remove the branches that form an acute angle with the trunk, located very close to it, and leave the "outer" branches. They are located almost horizontally.

All gardeners, without exception, know that sweet cherries, as well as cherry-cherry hybrids - dukes, have a tendency to lush growth and, first of all, in height. If the seedling is left without proper pruning, it forms a rare, elongated pyramidal and unproductive crown, reaching a height of about 5-6 meters in the first ten years. As a result, we get a high and very inconvenient crown for harvesting. But this problem has long been resolved in the tree formation system using the "Spanish Bush" method.

This system was first introduced in industrial plantings of sweet cherries in Spain. The crown of the formed tree with its structure resembles a bush, consisting of a short trunk and 4-5 skeletal branches, which is why the name of the whole system arose.

Trees limit their height to 2.5 meters, which allows you to harvest the entire crop without ladders, standing on the ground.

The system is great for small areas where free place"worth its weight in gold" and you can not do without compaction of landings.

Trees are planted with a distance of only 3 meters and 4.5 between the rows themselves. In addition to convenience and tangible space savings, the fruits achieve their best palatability due to the free, well-lit and wide central part of the crown.

cherry "Spanish bush"

"Spanish bush" - the third year of life

LANDING

Biennial seedlings are planted in landing pits 60x60x60 cm, which are prepared in advance, preferably in the fall, if planting will be done in the spring. When digging a hole, the upper black layer of the earth is separated from the lower reddish one. If the soil is moisture-intensive, a layer of drainage is poured into the bottom of the pit. Then lowered into the pit upper layer soil mixed with compost or humus to form a mound. The roots of the seedling are evenly distributed over the surface of the hill and covered with the remaining earth from the lower layers of the pit, also mixed with organic fertilizers, tamping several times. After all the soil is in the hole, the root collar should be level with the ground. Then the soil around the trunk is once again well tamped and generously spilled with water.

FIRST YEAR OF FORMATION

In early spring, before the start of sap flow, at the end of March, the bole is trimmed. When trees are formed according to the Spanish Bush system, the tree stem is from 30 to 70 cm. The height of the stem largely depends on the location of the buds. In the named interval, a site is selected with well-developed and evenly spaced buds in different directions, but not higher than 70 cm.

The upper part of the seedling is cut off above the last bud by 10-15

The kidneys, which are located at a distance of 10-15 cm, are carefully cut off with a sharp knife, which prevents their development. This section of the trunk is called a spike, it will perform helper function throughout the first year of formation.

From the awakened buds in the upper part, 4-5 of the most developed and evenly spaced along the entire circumference of the stem of the shoot are selected, the rest are broken out. These shoots will become the skeletal branches of the future crown.

Escapes must be given correct angle departure from the stem, which is 60 degrees. Cherries and dukes give shoots that have an acute angle between the trunk, and the uppermost kidney always tends to the position of the conductor and occupies strictly vertical position. The spike left at the end of the trunk helps to achieve the slope we need. So, all young shoots are deflected from the trunk at an angle of 60 degrees with the help of spacers, clothespins or garters with a rope. The easiest way is to place a clothespin over the shoot. When the shoots grow and bend, breaking the angle, their end is weighted with a weight, which will maintain the given angle.

All young shoots are deflected from the stem at an angle of 60 degrees using spacers, clothespins or garters with a rope.

After the shoots have overcome a length of 50 cm, they are cut at the same height under the same comb.

The upper shoots, of course, will be shorter than the lower ones, the uppermost shoot will be only 15-20 cm, and the lowest one will be the longest. The cut is made over the bud, which faces outward, and not into the center of the crown. So, the crown will grow in breadth, without thickening, providing all branches with an optimal light regime.

step 1

step 3

Second-order shoots will appear from the pruned branches, reaching a length of 50 cm by the end of the season. fruit branches. To this end, they are cut off over the fourth leaf, and after a couple of weeks, after the appearance of lateral branches, they are cut again to the lowest shoot, that is, the lowest branch is left, most often it is the most underdeveloped.

SECOND YEAR OF FORMATION

By the spring of the second year, we should have a trunk with short branches of the first order, each of which carries several long shoots of the second order. The formation should be continued until the buds open, when the shoots are still flexible and pliable. And at the same time, remove the spike left on the trunk, because we will no longer need it.
second year of formation

To begin with, two rigid wires are pulled parallel to each other at a distance of 1 meter, which lie or slightly rise above the ground. The tree should remain strictly in the center between them.

On each skeletal branch of the first order, the lowest shoot is selected and, with the help of a rope tied to one of the wires, is pulled to horizontal position. After that, the entire crown will open and become wider.

Further formation is resumed only after bud break, during possible flowering. All shoots not drawn in spring are shortened to a length of 25 cm from their base. Such pruning is not easy to do psychologically, as sometimes the "lion's share" of flowers is removed, but these measures significantly affect the quality of the crop and general state tree. The cut is also made on the outer bud, leaving a spike of 7-10 cm, which will give the last shoot the desired angle.

Further formation is resumed only after bud break, during possible flowering.

In the middle of summer, when the shoots that have appeared grow to a height of 60 cm, the pruning is repeated again as in spring: the lowest ones are pulled horizontally, and the upper ones are cut to a height of 30 cm.

This event ends the formation of the cherry crown. Further, they only monitor the given dimensions and the balance of the entire tree.

CARE FROM THE THIRD YEAR OF THE LIFE OF THE TREE

Starting from the third year top part the tree starts to thicken. For this, regulatory pruning is carried out, in which all branches of a branched shoot are cut out, leaving only the two lower ones. Branches are cut that exceed the height of the tree by 2.5 meters and are in contact with the crowns of other trees.

Also, a quarter of not only all fruit-bearing shoots, but also one skeletal branch is cut out annually. This ensures the constant youth of the tree and the appearance of new growth, which guarantees abundant fruiting. A similar rejuvenation of the entire crown occurs every four years.

Every year a quarter is cut not only of all fruit-bearing shoots, but also of one skeletal branch.

The skeletal branches are cut off leaving a section of 30-35 cm from the stem of the branch, thereby moving to the replacement branch.

Cherry or cherry, formed according to the "Spanish bush" system, although it has a somewhat unusual look for us, it gives such advantages as a neat and compact crown, large fruits and allows you to harvest without resorting to a ladder.