Pear cut. Pear pruning in autumn: scheme, timing, nuances of autumn pruning How to prune a young pear in winter

Pruning pears in the photo

A pear, like an apple tree, belongs to seed crops, which means that their pruning principles are similar, and everything that was said about an apple tree is absolutely true for a pear. However, compared to the apple tree, the pear has its own peculiarities.

When starting pruning pears, novice gardeners should remember that these trees are naturally tall, often in old city courtyards there are specimens looking into the windows of the fifth floor. And this means that in any garden, sooner or later, the question arises of limiting the dimensions of the crown, especially in the middle lane, where winter-hardy dwarf pear rootstocks do not yet exist. The pear tree will resist lowering, so set your sights on yearly pruning.

Pear wood is denser and harder than that of an apple tree, but it is also more fragile and prone to breakage. Therefore, before cutting a pear, special attention should be paid to safety precautions and in no case should you climb the skeletal branches.

Pear pruning scheme in the photo

Most varieties of pear are characterized by a pyramidal crown shape, they are prone to the formation huge amount tops and rapid thickening.

As you can see in the photo, when pruning pears, regular and sufficient strong removal tops, as well as careful thinning of the crown:

Pear rings are quite durable and can branch, so one more piece of advice - at a certain stage, you can increase fruiting with the help of rejuvenating pruning of individual rings, although this is laborious and jewelry work. Old fruit-bearing pear branches look like deer antlers, densely covered with old annelids. It is easier and more reasonable to remove such branches entirely when the crop ceases to satisfy you, and the pear will easily and happily grow new shoots from which you will subsequently select and form young fruit-bearing branches. From the many tops for growing future fruit-bearing branches, choose only well-located, with a strong attachment to the trunk or skeletal branches. And it will not necessarily be the longest and “fattest” shoot - sometimes a pear has tops even on the lower surface of a branch.

The intensity of pruning should correspond to the shoot-forming ability of the tree, and this is a varietal trait. Varieties with a weak shoot-forming ability need pruning to a lesser extent.

Features of pruning some varieties of pears

Here you will learn how to properly prune pears of different varieties.

Varieties with ring type fruiting (Bessemyanka, Dekanka winter, etc.) usually branch rather weakly, but may form an excessive number of annulus. It is imperative to regulate growth and fruiting with pruning, to establish the right balance.

Varieties with strong branching (Tonkovetka, forest beauty, many varieties from the Bere group, etc.) require regular thinning of the crown. Long growths are recommended to be shortened to make the crown more compact and stimulate the laying of generative buds. Such varieties are prone to the formation of sharp corners, and in this case, any methods of struggle are applicable.

Some pear varieties have fruit formations on the same tree. different types. In this case, the decision: to prune - not to prune - and how, is made for each particular branch.

Dwarf pear for middle lane possible only in one case - unrelated vaccinations for hawthorn, mountain ash, chokeberry, (in southern regions common quince is added to the list of rootstocks). A feature of pruning such pears is the obligatory leaving of at least one branch of the stock, and since the scion grows faster than the stock, such a grafted tree needs a garter to a support for life. The formation of the crown is the same as that of apple trees on dwarf rootstocks.

Watch the pear pruning video to better understand how to shape the crown of this tree:

Pear pruning takes place regularly for many years, because the crown is constantly growing, thickening, aging. A tree grows according to a program laid down by nature, and a person corrects this process in order to receive a harvest, preferably annually.

What is pruning

For fruit trees use several pruning techniques depending on the time of year, the age of the tree and the goal.

Trimming types:

1. Formative - has crucial in the first 5–6 years, when active formation fruit tree crowns; held in the spring.
2. Thinning - a permanent operation applied to a pear of any age; the tops that thicken the shoots are removed.
3. Sanitary - performed in the fall; remove incorrectly growing (inside the crown, rubbing), dry and diseased branches.
4. Rejuvenating - old trees need it, in which, as a rule, the upper half of the “trunk” dries out; pruning is done to healthy wood.

When is the best time to cut a pear?

Pruning is carried out in the spring at a temperature of 0 ° C to a stable +5 ° C, but before the start of sap flow, when the buds start to grow. Dates for regions are always individual, but, in general, this time comes in March-April.

In the summer, starting from June, tweezing is carried out - pinching off the tops of young shoots. What for? The forces for the growth of shoots in length are directed to the formation of fruits, the ripening of fruits is accelerated.

From late August to mid-September, when sap flow slows down, autumn pruning is carried out. Before frost, live wood on saw cuts and cuts will dry thoroughly and the risk of freezing will be minimal.

Pruning rules:

• use a sharp tool, periodically disinfect it;
• the branches are cut into a ring without leaving stumps that heal slowly, and are also overgrown with a brush of tops (what does it mean to cut into a ring? At the base of each branch there is a cambial ring - a thickening or influx at the point where the branch is attached to the trunk, the cut is made parallel to the outer side);
• thick branches are cut in different ways:
  • in the first run, half of the branch is cut, then the cut passes along the intended line;
  • the first cut is made from below, the second and final from above (so the cut fragment does not pull the bark along with it, the cut is smooth and quickly tightens);
• if the tree is running, the work is carried out in several stages so as not to weaken it;
• saw cuts are covered with drying oil or paint based on it, garden pitch, paraffin or Rannet preparation (artificial bark);
• remove a certain number of branches, because excessive pruning provokes the growth of a large number of tops.

The cut runs along the outer edge of the cambial ring

How do pears react to being cut?

Sometimes a pear does not react to pruning the way you would like it to, and grows "in the wrong steppe." Such disobedience depends on the variety and its inherent type of growth. Therefore, sometimes light pruning is combined with other techniques, for example, bending.

There are varieties with apical (apical) dominance of shoots, there are with lateral ones. There are with good shoot formation, there are with bad ones. There are varieties with a right angle of shoots, there are with a sharp one (mesotonic and basitonic).
Varieties with a mesotonic type of branching with wide angle branch branches: In memory of Yakovlev, August dew, Swallow. It is a pleasure to form such varieties - we cut off a young seedling to a trunk height of + 20 cm and remove unnecessary side shoots in summer, the tree forms itself. The shaping scheme for such pears is sparse-tiered.
And such a variety as the Bryansk Beauty has apical dominance. Those. all the strength of growth goes into one single shoot, which simply clogs the rest. It is impossible to form such a tree by pruning! When pruning, one or two shoots are obtained, but with such sharp corners that they literally run parallel to the trunk. Such varieties form horizontal cordons. This is when one shoot is kicked out, and then it is bent. The shoots that have grown from the places of the bend are thinned out and again bent in the opposite direction, etc.

There is no way to bypass this technique - bending down or pulling branches up (for crowns of a drooping type) to give them a horizontal position. It is on such branches that most flower buds are laid. Skeletal branches do not bend. Bending back non-lignified shoots in spring and summer is more productive, safer, easier and takes less time. With spring bending, the branches will quickly take new form, but if this is done in the fall, there will be zero sense - you can’t tell a sleeping branch that you need to fix yourself in a new position. Lignified branches are also bent, but this is much harder to do, it will take physical strength and extreme caution so as not to break anything. The process takes place gradually, step by step, so it will not be possible to meet in one season.

Acute angles of branching - a zone of constant risk

If a branch leaves the trunk at the desired (not sharp) angle, and then rushes sharply into the sky, it is rejected more horizontal position. A loop of twine is attached at a distance of 2/3 of the length of the branch from the trunk, the second end is fixed to a stake driven into the ground or to the trunk, or a spacer is placed between the branch and the trunk. Too deviated branches are attracted upwards, which interfere with weeding and loosening the ground. They are fixed to the trunk or to a pole, which is tied to the trunk. A ring is attached to the upper end of the pole, through which one or more garters are passed. To prevent the string from cutting into the bark, a lining is placed on the branch under it. Otherwise, the cord or string will cut into the bark, disrupting the movement of nutrients, the branch dries out, becomes brittle and dies.

You can bend a pear branch in a variety of ways

Bending is great for shaping the crown of a pygmy pear. Branches 15 cm long are bent horizontally, the shoots are cut out at an acute angle, and the stem is shortened so that it is 40 cm higher than the top branch. cm) cut into several buds. Stronger dominant branches are cut into a ring, the central conductor is again shortened to the same height as before.

tweezing

It is carried out in June with the help of secateurs or fingers. The top of a young growth with 4–5 leaves is pinched. After 10 days, the procedure is repeated, i.e., tweezing will take place three times in a month. Pinching slows down the growth of the crown in length and nutrients come to fruition.

Video: pear tweezing in summer

The secret of pruning pear with a different crown shape

In general, pruning technology is the same for a tree with any crown shape, but there is little nuance. In pyramidal pears, the crown is “unfolded” - the shoots are cut to the outer bud, that is, located on the outside. New shoots grow more deviated, more flower buds are laid on them, the crown becomes more magnificent, better illuminated. You can replace the pruning of branches growing up by bending down.

Formation of a crown-shaped crown

The crown of pears with drooping shoots is raised: a cut on a branch passes over the inner bud. In the future, the growth is turned inside the crown and, as it were, lifts it. This technique in no way impairs fruiting, but makes the crown more compact and facilitates the cultivation of the earth in near-stem circles.

Forming a pear in the form of a bowl

The crown is given the appropriate shape by sawing off the central conductor on purpose or when it is frozen, sick or dried out. Skeletal branches of the first order surround the resulting void and the whole picture resembles a bowl. The advantage of this form is that the branches, both outside and inside, receive enough sunlight and well ventilated.

Formation of the cup crown

Video: the main types of pear shaping

Pruning a young pear in spring

Purpose of pruning young tree consists in the gradual formation of a ventilated and well-lit crown that can withstand the load of fruits.

What is a "year-old"

This affectionate word is often called annual seedlings. By the way, novice gardeners may have difficulty determining the age of a seedling. The answer is simple: a seedling that has lived through a season is considered an annual. That is, a pear planted last fall or this spring is considered an annual.

Before buying a pear seedling of a favorite variety, the first thing to do is evaluate the condition of the root system - it should be fibrous, with whole tips, moistened. If the plant is sold with a closed root system (in a bag), lightly pick the bark with your fingernail. bottom layer Green colour indicates that the seedling is alive and healthy, if brown is dry, there will be no sense from it.

The yearling usually has a length of 80-100 cm and looks like a twig, as a rule, without lateral shoots or there will be one or two, but very short ones. Therefore, pruning at the first stage is the most unpretentious and will not raise questions even for the “teapot”.

Trimming an annual pear

The seedling is planted according to all the rules on permanent place, fixed to the peg and immediately after that cut off with secateurs. Pears grafted on a vigorous seed rootstock are cut at a height of 70 cm from the ground directly above the bud. And seedlings obtained by grafting on a vegetatively propagated rootstock (dwarf) are shortened to a height of up to 50 cm. (Such nuances are specified with the seller). If you had to plant a pear with damaged roots, it is cut a little more, by about 10 cm, giving it the strength to restore the roots.

Seedling metamorphoses during the first year

A shortened stem (or central conductor) will still grow upwards, it will shoot from the upper bud under the cut, and there will also be several side shoots. At first they will be grassy - green, tender and thin, and only with time will turn into powerful skeletal branches. The skeleton, in turn, will be overgrown with semi-skeletal twigs with leaves, buds and flowers. After some time, growth will appear below the vaccination site, which should be removed. It will draw some of the nutrients onto itself, create a shadow, but it will not give high-quality fruits.

Learning to cut a branch correctly

Pruning a pear seedling for the second year

Two-year-old seedlings usually grow 6–8 side shoots, from which skeletal branches are formed. To do this, leave 3–4 branches (the rest are cut into a ring), evenly spaced around the circumference and spaced from each other in height by about 15–20 cm. the trunk, and the spokes are the side shoots. Only in our case, these spokes, i.e., shoots, are not located on the same level, but each is slightly higher than the other. The angle of deviation of the skeletal branches from the trunk should not be too sharp - 45-50 °. Anywhere in the tree, similar sharp joints at strong wind easily split, leaving deep wounds that are difficult to heal.

An acute angle is the most unreliable for a tree, it splits easily

The skeletal branches are cut ¼ to the outer bud, but in such a way that each of them is slightly lower than the previous one. Thus, the principle of subordination is fulfilled - the branches growing below should not rise above the ones growing above. Lateral branches at the ends of skeletal branches, resembling bird's feet, make the continuation shoot shorter. The central conductor (trunk) is cut so that it rises 25 cm above the rest. If a competitor shoot has grown near the central conductor (and it will definitely grow at an acute angle), it is cut into a ring. If the pear rapidly stretches upwards, the central conductor is cut to the first weak side shoot, and in order for it to grow vertically, it is pulled to the peg with twine.

pruning two year old pear

Competitors also grow on skeletal branches (the end of the shoot resembles a bunch), they are also cut into a ring. After pruning, nitrogen fertilizing is excluded so that the tree uses all its strength to heal the saw cuts, and not build up the green mass. It happens that one branch grows over another. In the future, the top one will obscure the bottom one, they will get mixed up, so one of them is removed.

Pruning a three year old pear

For the first sitting, the central conductor is cut off by ¼ of the height, about 25 cm are left from the new growth, the rest is cut off already on the inner kidney (so that the crown is not sprawling). The next season, the competitors of the central conductor will also amputate on the skeletal branches. Powerful tops are cut into a ring, and thin ones are bent, shortened by a quarter, turning them into semi-skeletal productive branches. Remove all branches with an acute angle of departure, as well as violating the harmonious structure of the crown. If the stem is low and the lower skeletal branches lean towards the ground, they are shortened. In general, pruning a three-year-old tree is similar to working with a two-year-old seedling.

Trimming a three-year-old and a two-year-old pear is very similar

Pruning a four-year-old pear

At this age, the second tier is laid, observing the already known rules:

• avoid sharp corners of the branch branch from the trunk;
• removal of competitors;
• subordination - the upper tier should not overlap the lower one, the central conductor is longer than the branches.

Annual growths on four-year-old pears are not shortened, so as not to activate growth processes. Branches that stand out from the general pattern are cut into an annual ring or fruitful wood; eliminate wolves.

Pruning a four-year-old pear also comes down mainly to thinning and eliminating competing shoots.

mature trees

By the age of five, the crown of a pear is considered formed and does not require special intervention for several years. A tree aged 6 to 8 years looks like a self-sufficient bourgeois with a leisurely life schedule. The shortening of branches is minimized, because their annual growth is noticeably reduced. Pruning is mainly aimed at maintaining a good sanitary condition of the tree.

Over time, the crown of adult pears gradually thickens and the overgrown branches will receive less sunlight. In this case, thinning is carried out, which is stretched for 2-3 years. Why so long? To maintain a balance between the crown and its "reflection" - the roots. The thinning procedure begins in the spring. In one sitting, two-three-year-old thick branches are cut down inside the crown into a replacement knot, the diameter of which is half the diameter of the central conductor. No more than two such branches are removed at a time.

Replacement pruning helps replace old branches with new ones

The branch is shortened to a fruiting branch, and the shoot located below is cut into two buds - this will be a replacement knot. By the way, when they say “cut into two or five, etc. buds”, this means that this number of buds remains on the shortened shoot. On the next year shoots grow from the buds left on the replacement knot. They will perform the functions of the previous branch, therefore they are also called replacements. The trunk or central conductor is shortened to 3–3.5 m. Places near the cuts are overgrown with a brush of young shoots (future tops) from awakened buds, they are broken out at the end of May.

It’s good to teach others when the pear itself under the window is begging (now I just feel it) to be “combed”. The tree is 10 years old appearance reminiscent of cypress, height 3 m. Fruits in a year, the minimum fruit weight is 250 g, no one remembers the name of the variety. So, on this specimen, it is necessary to remove the competitors of the central conductor, subordinate the skeletal branches and cut them to the external kidney. Having done some magic in Paint, I got a pretty nice version of the updated pear.

Removing many competitors and trimming side branches should encourage lateral branching.

Video: pruning an adult pear

Pruning an old pear

A tree of 15 years and older is considered an aksakal and requires radical rejuvenation. A signal for this is a decrease in growth to 15–20 cm. Rejuvenating pear pruning is carried out gradually over two to three seasons, and work begins in the spring before bud break. Rejuvenation is best done after a lean year, when an abundance of flower buds has formed on the tree.

After rejuvenating pruning, bald branches are overgrown with twigs

If there are several thick dry branches, several are cut down every year, the wounds are covered with garden pitch. Then the cuts are wrapped with a dark film until September, so the cuts will tighten 2–3 times faster. Annual growth is shortened by ¼ of its total length. They also cut off the “wrong” branches - growing inward, vertically and crossing.

Pruning dead trees

Depending on the degree of frost damage, appropriate pruning is carried out. If the top of an annual pear planted in autumn is frozen, it is cut to 1/3 of the length. However, this operation is shown to all one-year-old seedlings, so the frost does not seem to cause much harm.

In older trees with a developed system of branches, pruning is more rigid. First, the branches are examined, revealing lesions - the wood in these places is brown or black. If the branch is mostly or completely frozen, it is cut into a ring. Affected upper parts are cut to healthy wood.

Gradual pruning of thick branches is convenient for humans and does not injure the tree

When performing such pruning, they think first of all about the health of the tree, the beauty of the crown is relegated to the background. It is important that dormant buds wake up, which will give impetus to the growth of new shoots. And only after the fouling of the "stumps" with branches it will be possible to talk about the formation of the crown.

Features of pear pruning in various regions, including Siberia

In the zone of risky gardening, especially in the Urals, in Siberia, pear pruning is cultivated by a bush. A tree of just this shape is easier to hide in frosty winter. To do this, form a bole 10–15 cm high, skeletal branches are placed in random order. The formation of the crown of young trees is accompanied by moderate pruning of skeletal branches and thinning of semi-skeletal ones. In the fifth year, the central conductor is shortened at the level of the upper skeletal branches of the first order. It turns out a tree-bush with a height of about 2–2.5 m, and more is not needed. Crown restoration is carried out at the expense of tops, shortening them by a third of the length.

In the most inappropriate, at first glance, regions, a slate crown shape is practiced. Seedlings are planted at an inclination of 45 ° with their heads to the south, and within three years form 2–4 skeletal branches about 1 meter long, constantly bending them down. Then, 2 vertical shoots are left on each branch, cutting off all the rest.

A completely different picture is emerging in the Crimea with a favorable climate. Here pear pruning can be carried out practically all year round, the risk of frost occurs only in certain years, which is rare.

Illiterate rejuvenation of an overgrown pear at a Stakhanov pace in one season (up to 3–4 m in height and diameter) is fraught with freezing of the tree even mild winter. And if you cut the crown gradually, every year by 1–2 m in height and width, it will take several years and all this time the yield will be barely. Beginning with Central region it is recommended to use anti-aging pruning according to the method of V. I. Susov (Moscow Agricultural Academy named after K. A. Timiryazev). Its essence lies in the gradual thinning of the crown, starting from the half that is most illuminated by the sun.

The cut off part of the crown should be 3 m high and 2 m wide. Outwardly, the picture is somewhat reminiscent of a pie from which a wedge was cut. Half of the tops that have appeared are cut into a ring, the rest are shortened and bent to stimulate the formation of flower buds. All this time, the remaining wilds continue to delight with juicy large fruits.

Original rejuvenation of a fruit tree according to the method of V. I. Susov

When, after 4-5 years, the tops begin to bear fruit, they rejuvenate the second part of the crown and at the same time rejuvenate the roots. To do this, in the fall or spring in the year of pruning, under the cut off part of the crown, they dig a semicircular trench 75 cm deep at a distance of 2 m from the trunk according to the width of the cut crown. Exposed large and small roots are cut with an ax or cut with a saw. This operation stimulates the process of root formation. (Note that such work requires certain skills, if not mastery). The ditch is covered with humus and top layer excavated land in a ratio of 1:1. For heavy soil add river sand and pebbles in the amount of 20% of the total volume of excavated land. At the same time, the winter hardiness of the pear remains at the same level, and the life span is extended by 20–30 years.

Video: pear crown pruning for beginner gardeners

Decisive for a pear is the first 3-4 years of life, when their crown is formed. The following years are devoted mainly to maintaining the crown in good shape. The quality of pruning and the health of the pear depends on correct technique cutting, protection of cuts, cleanliness of the tool and timely work.

It is best to remove extra branches from a pear in spring or autumn, when the tree is at rest, but in fact, pruning can be done at any time of the year if necessary. In order to carry out the procedure correctly, you need to know the pear trimming scheme, as well as view photos and videos on this topic.

From this article, you will learn how to properly trim a pear, and what features you need to consider. We will also describe the rules for the procedure for trees of different ages and different seasons.

How to properly trim a pear

With the advent of autumn, the owners of country houses and garden plots begin to plan activities aimed at preparing the garden for winter and the next season.

Figure 1. An example of the correct trimming of a pear

Most often, questions arise regarding the pruning of fruit trees. In this article, you can get acquainted with the seasonal features of this procedure using the example of a pear, which is not only very tasty, but also an extremely useful horticultural crop.

Note: It is known that the removal of excess branches improves crop yield and fruit quality, regulates fruiting and growth, improves crown shape and helps to improve its lighting.

With this procedure, you can grow a strong tree of the desired shape and height, as well as maintain its productivity for long time(picture 1). In the process of carrying out, many factors should be taken into account, among which the type of tree, in our case, pear, plays an important role.

Peculiarities

You should know that in young seedlings (up to 1 year old), the trunks are shortened by 25% of their length in order to branch the crown. Lateral branches are shortened only to the first kidney.

In the second year of life, the top of the main trunk should be shortened by 25-30 cm, and the side shoots by 6-8 cm. In this case, the lower branches should be longer than the upper ones, respectively, the shape of the crown should be in the shape of a pyramid. You should also be aware of what older tree, the slower new shoots appear on it. For sufficiently mature specimens, the need for formative pruning occurs once every three years.

Scheme

After preparatory work in the first two years of a seedling's life, you can proceed to the main pruning. It is carried out in two stages - sanitary and forming (Figure 2).

The best time to carry out the first is the very beginning of spring, when it becomes necessary to remove all dry and damaged branches after winter. Formative pruning follows the sanitary pruning, with an interval of two months.

Tools for the job

The set of tools for this procedure is standard. It includes: pruner, lopper, garden knives and saws. We remind you that the secateurs are used to remove branches with a diameter of 2 cm, for shoots of larger sizes, a delimber is used. Light cleaning can be done with a garden knife, and large branches can be cut with a garden saw.

Figure 2. Pear trimming steps

Whatever tool you use, remember that it must be clean, free of rust, and well sharpened. In addition, it must be processed before use. disinfectant to protect the plant from all kinds of infectious diseases transmitted through the instrument.

pear pruning timing

Pear can be cut at any time of the year, except for winter. Most often, early spring pruning is practiced, which is carried out before the onset of the growing season. However, summer and autumn have the right to exist, the characteristics of which are presented below.

Spring pruning: video

Insofar as given culture blooms and bears fruit on last year's shoots, then spring pruning should be carried out very early, even before the swelling of the kidneys at a temperature environment not lower than +5 degrees.

Note: First of all, it is necessary to thin out the crown of the tree for better access of air and light. Then they begin to shorten the central trunk by a quarter of its height, as well as to remove dry or damaged shoots.

In addition, branches grow not only in height, but also horizontally, so horizontal shoots are preserved, and vertically up and down shoots are removed (Figure 3). When cutting branches under the ring, you must first make a lower notch, and then wash down the upper one to prevent the bark from scoring. To stimulate the growth of lateral shoots, they resort to shortening the branches. All cut points in without fail lubricated with antiseptic substances: oil paint, garden pitch, drying oil. Provided that the procedure is carried out correctly, all sections will overgrow by next year.

Figure 3. Features of spring pruning

From the video you can learn how to properly trim, guided by the advice of experts.

Pruning in the fall: scheme

Autumn pruning is carried out from the last days of August to mid-September. Only early and middle varieties of this fruit tree are subject to it. There are some features of the procedure that you need to know for its quality implementation (Figure 4).

• It is not recommended to prune the tree immediately, it is better to divide this procedure into two seasons.
• Autumn pruning is carried out at an air temperature not lower than 0.
• First of all, shoots growing at right angles to the trunk are removed, then branches growing vertically, parallel to the trunk.
• The optimal place to cut the branches is the annular influx of bark at their base. It is here that the healing of the wound from the cut occurs as quickly as possible.
• Branches with a thickness exceeding 3 cm must be cut in two steps. First make the bottom notch, and then the top.

Figure 4. Rules for pruning trees in autumn

The cut sites must be treated with special antiseptic substances for better healing. It should also be borne in mind that a crop cut in autumn does not need any additional feeding.

winter pruning

Carry out cutting in winter time not recommended due to the slow healing of wounds and the high risk of death of damaged branches from frost. Therefore, in winter, very spread branches are removed and the height of the tree is shortened. First, this procedure is carried out with old trees, since their buds awaken earlier, and then with young ones.

Dead, weak, damaged and cross shoots are removed. Pruning and removal of large branches must be divided into several seasons. You should know that the cleanliness and sterility of working instruments is very important for the winter procedure, because the speed of wound healing depends on this. Just like with others seasonal pruning, places of cuts should be treated with special substances.

pruning in summer

Purpose of cleaning summer time is the removal of grown shoots at the top of the tree, in other words, pinching. It can be done by hand or with a pruner.

This procedure allows the plant to economically use the nutrients that come to it from the soil. Pruning carried out in June, when the plant is growing intensively, leads to increased growth of shoots located next to the pinched ones, and to the transformation of leaf buds into fruit buds. It is also possible to carry out summer pruning during the period of attenuation of the growth of branches, which stimulates the ripening of the shoots and allows the axillary buds to develop better.

Features of age pruning

Seasonal pruning is subject to different age categories of fruit trees: both young and mature specimens. Trimming features, diagrams and list necessary tools you will find below.

For the first time, a young pear is pruned immediately after planting in order to improve the nutrition of the root system in order to restore it. Trees older than 1 year must be pruned already 2 times a year. In this case, you should be aware that the conductor should be located above the cut shoots, and the semi-skeletal branches are shortened by 25% of their total length (Figure 5).

Note: The overwintered plant should be carefully examined in order to identify tops, as they quickly turn into large branches that thicken the crown.

Therefore, in the spring, tops must be converted into overgrown and semi-skeletal branches, and some should be completely removed. Sometimes, when wood is damaged low temperatures, you have to cut off parts of the branches located above the tops. In the fourth year of life, the laying of the second tier of the crown is carried out, and starting from the fifth, the need for shortening the branches becomes more moderate due to a decrease in annual growth.

Anti-aging pruning of an old pear

pruning old pear sometimes it is detrimental to the tree itself, but it is still necessary for its rejuvenation. It happens that when improper care she grows too tall. In this case, it is necessary to take measures to shorten its length.

Figure 5. Features of pruning young fruit trees

As a rule, these works begin at the end of winter and continue until the formation of buds. Tree rejuvenation occurs through thinning of the crown by removing all diseased, damaged, non-fruiting shoots. After thinning, they begin to remove competitive shoots, as well as those branches that grow parallel to the tree crown and at an acute angle to it. Fresh wounds are treated with a special substance, for example, garden pitch. Thus, you can not only save the old tree from felling, but also give it a new life.

The author of the video will tell you how to properly trim an old pear.

Not everyone knows how to properly cut a pear. However, the presented process is very important, because it allows the tree to get more air and light. Accordingly, a cut pear gives more harvest. And the result of proper pruning will be visible for several years.

Basic pear pruning rules

When pruning a pear, a number of nuances must be observed. They are obligatory, regardless of when and how woodworking is done.

1. When cutting horizontal or lower branches, you should not leave huge stumps, but cuts are not made at the bark either. The guideline for you should be the influx located at the base of the branch.
2. If the diameter of the branch you are about to remove is more than 3 cm, it is worth filing a little from the bottom first. Then it is removed from above.
3. The cutting angle must be 90 degrees. First, the shoots coming from the trunk are removed, then those that are parallel to it, and only then the vertical ones.
4. Watering and fertilizing immediately after the procedure are not practiced.
5. After the work is completed, it is necessary to process the sections with paint or pitch. Otherwise, the juice will simply flow from the tree, which will significantly weaken its strength. Among other things, insects will begin to flock to the sweet liquid.

The best time for pear pruning is early spring. During this period, the frosts have already gone, and the movement of the juice has not yet begun, which means that it is most safe to carry out the work.

Main tricks

There are 2 main pruning techniques - thinning and shortening. Additional steps are the following:

• the slope of the branches;
• tying;
• topping;
• bending;
• breaking out;
• banding.

How to cut a pear in spring (video)

After it is carried out, the trees become compact, their growth in width and length decreases. But you should not shorten the pear too much, otherwise its fruiting will also slow down. It is better to process weak branches in this way.

Strong pruning is recommended only for old trees. already stopped growing. Their shortening of branches by 4-year-old wood leads to the fact that the plant is noticeably rejuvenated. The shortening of 1-year growth occurs, based on the varietal characteristics of the pear. If you shorten the branches by 0.5 or 2/3 of the length, it will be strong, by ¼ - weak.

The presented technique allows light to pass better in the crown of the tree, respectively, it increases productivity. Thinning promotes and better defense trees from pests.

The specified pruning method does not provoke fast growth branches, but allows you to correctly redistribute the nutrients in the pear. Thinning can be weak, strong, medium.

1. Strong is characterized by the fact that broken, intertwined, large skeletal branches, low-lying shoots that interfere with soil cultivation are eliminated.
2. Medium thinning is carried out by cutting out fattening shoots and semi-skeletal branches that darken the crown.
3. Weak thinning - removal of dried and 1-year-old shoots.

Many varieties of pear are capable of producing a large number of fruits and rings. They should also be thinned into a ring so that the remaining branches are 7 cm apart from each other. This technique increases the number of fruits.

Spring pear pruning

The pear pruning scheme in spring consists in following some rules. Consider step by step guide to action during this period.

• A pruner with narrow blades is taken.
• With it, cut each branch.
• A young pear, whose age is only 1 year old, is cut at a height equal to 0.5 m from the ground level. Such cutting stimulates the growth of new branches from those buds that are located at the bottom of the pear.
• In the second year after planting, pruning is done by 25%. As a result, 5 side branches should remain on the main part, which will be located at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the trunk.
• An adult pear that has reached the age of 3 years and above should simply be thinned out.

How to cut a young pear (video)

Pear pruning method in summer

In summer, the tree is pruned using clothespins or tweezers. The method is characterized by simply pinching the emerging shoots with your fingers. Remove the entire top to the hardened area. And the result summer pruning should be the formation of the crown in height.

If we talk about the time of work, the optimal period is June. And then you will have to repeat the tweezing every 10 days. A second pruning in the summer is good because it helps the tree stay healthy.

Important! After work, do not forget to remove all removed parts from the site. Otherwise, the dead remains of the tree can cause diseases. It is best to burn the removed shoots.

How to prune in autumn

Autumn pruning is to remove bad branches. It’s not worth cutting anymore, otherwise the tree will begin to direct forces to heal damaged branches, instead of accumulating strength for the winter.

In autumn, crown formation for beginners is carried out according to the following plan:

1. All dead branches are removed.
2. Branches are cut at an angle of 90 degrees.
3. Defective bends must be correctly cut in parts.
4. Leaving stumps when removing branches is not worth it.

And, of course, pruning doesn't end there. All removed parts will have to be burned.

Rules for pruning young and old pear

Pruning is a must to get off the tree big harvest. Both young and old trees are shaped to look beautiful.

1. Old pears need to be shaped so that they continue to bear fruit. Sometimes work is also done to shorten the height of the tree. In this case, thinning is carried out at the end of winter or in spring. How many branches are to be cut? Dry branches should be removed. Then shoots are removed that grow parallel to the crown or at an acute angle. After the manipulations, the pear may stop producing a large crop, but over time the situation will certainly improve. But the tree will live longer.
2. For annual seedlings, the pruning scheme is somewhat different. Firstly, it is worth noting that in 1 year it is better not to shorten the branches. But in subsequent years, it is necessary to improve the nutrition of the tree.

When pruning a pear, you must ensure that the center conductor is higher than the cut shoots. This will form the pyramidal growth of the tree.

Pears, whose age is older than 2 years, are cut 2 times a year. Then they begin to branch well, form fruit branches. When working with a young pear, direct attention should be paid to tops(powerful vertical branches). They can become large branches, so some of them should be cut off and the other part removed completely.

How to rejuvenate a pear at the age of 25 (video)

When the pears reach 4 years of age, you can begin to lay the second tier with them. From the age of 5, pruning should become more moderate.

So, pruning a pear is a serious occupation, but if you follow the rules, everything will definitely work out. Before starting work, it is important to take into account the age of the plant and its tendency to form new branches. It is from this that we must turn away.

Pear fruits are liked by almost all people. But the pear needs to be looked after in order to systematically obtain sweet fruits. It is important not only to water it in a drought, to feed it, but also to do the circumcision procedure. This article will tell you how to properly prune a pear in autumn period.

Pruning pear branches without fruit buds

Autumn pear pruning and its features

Pear pruning in autumn is carried out every year, except for the first year of growth.

Autumn pear pruning begins from the third decade of August to mid-September.

During this period, the pear is not heavily pruned. If you cut a lot of branches at once, the tree will lose strength and may not survive the winter well. It is in September that the juice moves more slowly along the tree, but has not yet completely stopped. Therefore, the pear will try to tighten the fresh cuts. For such a process, the tree wastes a lot of energy that the plant has in store for the winter. How to prune a pear in autumn?

Crown formation in the first 4 years

The autumn procedure takes place according to this scheme:

• Cut dry and diseased branches. Dry branches can break off from frost and hook on healthy branches.
• Remove branches growing at an angle of approximately 90 degrees.
• Other branches that grow incorrectly are partially removed. Therefore, in autumn it is better to cut branches that interfere with the development of fruitful taps.
• Branches that, in your opinion, must be removed, are best shortened, and they are completely removed the next year.

It is important to know that when branches are removed, stumps are not left. After the cut, only the ring should remain at the very base.

Cut branches are burned in the autumn, as they may contain pathogenic bacteria. They can also infect other plants in the garden.

Why is pear pruning necessary?

Proper pruning pear has many advantages:

1. A powerful skeletal base is created that can withstand the load of large fruits. The main purpose of pruning is to thin out and shape the crown. Uniform and correct distribution of valuable substances, which improves the yield and development of the whole tree.
2. There is more access to the sun's rays to the crown. The pear loves sunlight. Systematic pruning of branches does not allow young and unnecessary shoots to grow, for which the tree spends its strength. Therefore, all the necessary substances go to the fruits and their quality improves.
3. Pear - tall tree and pruning branches stops the growth of the tree. This makes it possible to protect other fruit trees from the shade. In addition, more than comfortable conditions to collect fruits.
4. After pruning, spraying the tree can be done more efficiently.

Before and after pruning a pear tree

Most trees are pruned in spring and autumn. But pear pruning in spring is different from autumn pruning. Incorrect pear pruning can create accelerated growth branches. This leads to the depletion of the tree and is negatively marked on fruitfulness.

To spend correct pruning necessary:

• Understand and know pruning techniques. It depends on the purpose of the circumcision.
• Prepare the right tool in advance.
• Understand the basic principles of pruning techniques.

Cropping methods

Two methods are used to cut a pear:

1. Shortening - a cut of the upper part of the branches and one-year shoots. This allows you to slow down the growth of the plant upwards, the branches grow horizontally. The formation of fruits is reduced, but their properties are improved.
2. Thinning - cutting off the branches on the crown completely at the base without leaving stumps and cutting off the growth branches. After this cut Sun rays come to the tree in a larger volume. And this contributes better yield and some protection against diseases and pests is created. This method does not stimulate the growth of the remaining branches and shoots, but strong and productive fruits are formed in this way. This happens due to the redistribution of nutrients.

Before and after pruning in autumn

These methods are used in conjunction with additional tricks: tilt, garter, kerbovka, bending shoots and branches.

Instruments

To properly trim any tree, you need to take care of the tools. To do this, you need to get a pruner, lopper, garden knife, wood saw, garden shears, garden pitch. If there is no garden pitch, you can use paint based on natural drying oil.

Pruning tool and garden pitch for cutting cuts

Cutting tools need to be sharpened well, since after the cut there should be a flat place, without broken fibers. To avoid infectious diseases, take care of the cleanliness of the instruments.

Important nuances of pear trimming

Sometimes beginner gardeners don't understand the difference in pruning between a young tree and an old one. But you need to know that the tree pruning scheme is different depending on age.

Pear pruning has its own nuances:

• For proper crown modeling, the base of the trunk is cut off every year. In the future, less time is spent on pruning, as old and dry branches will be cut off.
• The common crown shape of a pear is pyramidal.
• If the pear is more than a year old, it is advisable to prune in the fall and spring.
• When the tree is four years old, a skeleton of branches for the second tier is planned.
• After five years, the formation of young shoots decreases. Therefore, pruning must be done carefully so as not to cut off the fruitful twig.

When pruning old trees, the rejuvenation method is used. For this, old branches and not fruitful ones are removed.

Anti-aging pruning of pears with different crowns

Thanks to this method, the crown is thinned out, ventilation improves and the growth of young shoots is stimulated. Anti-aging pruning is best done in late autumn or early spring before the growing season. After the rejuvenation method will not bountiful harvest but the tree will bear fruit.