How to disassemble a cast iron riser. How to dismantle the old cast-iron sewer yourself? Dismantling of internal sewerage

Something, but there was a lot of cast iron in the Soviet Union! All technologies were developed taking into account the use of this particular material. So in the laying of sewers, cast iron is still very much in demand. Of course, cast iron has many very significant advantages - it can withstand heavy loads, which allows you to assemble risers on many floors, it is durable, can perform its function for decades in damp or cold rooms, paint fits well on a cast-iron pipe, that is, it can be beautifully entered into design. In a word, a cast iron sewer pipe is a solid, durable thing. But in this thoroughness lies its main disadvantage. It is very difficult to disassemble, if necessary, a part of such a pipeline. And sometimes this is an urgent need. For example, you need additional outlet or the existing branch has become unusable. How to proceed?

The best thing is when the work is done by a professional, a master of his craft. In this case, you can be sure of the quality and efficiency of the work performed. But this option is not always possible. Often, plumbing has to wait for weeks, and their prices, to put it mildly, are overpriced. It happens that this "master" has no experience in such works. Not all those who wear plumbing overalls are such.

Therefore, if you have at least some manual skills, then you can disconnect or, as they say, emboss cast-iron sewer pipes yourself. Let's try to decide on the algorithm of actions.

Preparation for caulking pipes

First of all, you need to stock up in advance with all the necessary tools so that it is at hand. It is necessary to prepare an angle grinder (grinder), preferably adapted to work with 230 mm discs. For those places that cannot be approached by a grinder, you need to stock up on a hacksaw (it's good to have a few spare blades). You will also need: a simple hammer and a hammer with a rubber or wooden sole, an adjustable wrench, a chisel, pliers, a few screwdrivers different widths, blowtorch and respirator. And, of course, glasses, gloves and rags.

Depending on the way the pipes were minted, the condition of the minting and your skill, the operation could take several hours. This must be kept in mind. Of all plumbing repairs, caulking cast-iron pipes is perhaps the most time-consuming job. But don't let that scare you. Thousands of people have done this job successfully, and so can you.

First stage

So, we begin dismantling the cast-iron sewer with our own hands. First of all, we close all the valves, thereby eliminating the possibility of water flow through the disassembled pipe. It is desirable (but not necessary) to agree with the neighbors from above to temporarily limit the use of water supply, and hence sewerage. Free yourself as much as possible more space, disconnect all drain pipes. Special mention must be made of the toilet. This plumbing product, as a rule, is located as close as possible to the riser. Modern toilets they are connected to the sewer system using corrugations, while the Soviet ones were connected directly to the pipe socket. And since they were also attached to the floor by cement pouring, it is impossible to disconnect such a toilet bowl from the pipe and the floor at the same time. If such a rarity is installed in your bathroom, but you need to chisel the sewer, then you will have to say goodbye to such a toilet. It can only be broken and dismantled in parts.

After removing the toilet, disconnecting the pipes, we get directly to the connection that needs to be minted. If you need to replace the final pipe, this makes the task much easier. If the problematic part of the pipe is located in the middle of the common pipeline or has additional branches, cutting is indispensable. Such a pipe cannot be moved, and without this it will not be possible to remove one pipe from the other. Therefore, the pipe is cut a few (2-4) centimeters from the socket of the previous pipe. By no means flush!

The incision is made by a grinder (in compliance with all safety regulations). If the location of the pipe does not allow it to be completely cut, then we finish the rest with a hacksaw. Do not try to break the undercut with a hammer or pry bar. It is very important to remember that cast iron is a brittle material. This fragility is unpredictable, you can hit several times in vain in one place, and suddenly crack in another. The pipes that you are changing are already worn out, they may have shells and microcracks inside, through which the pipe can burst. And the danger lies precisely in the fact that a part of the bell can break off, which must be left intact. Otherwise, the next pipe will also have to be changed, and it can be part of a common riser or pass through an interfloor ceiling. Agree that this is a completely different level of problems.

Correctly executed partial caulking of the pipe

Therefore, we carefully cut the pipe. You can make several longitudinal incisions on the rest of the pipe to the socket. To avoid getting hit foreign objects We plug the hole in the pipeline with a rag.

By the way, it’s better to tie it to something just in case, in order to be sure that the rags will not fly into the riser.

Chasing pipes minted in different ways

Gently make a few blows with a hammer on the socket and try to loosen it. If there is slight movement, then the method of caulking is simpler, consisting of a tamped rope (kabolka). In this case, you should try to dig it with a screwdriver of a suitable width upper layer and find the end. Then, having hooked the edge of the cable with pliers, we try to pull it all out, while shaking our rest of the pipe. Having pulled out the entire rope, we continue to shake the pipe in different sides while pulling it towards you.

The most undesirable, but, unfortunately, the most common way of minting in Soviet time was pouring into the cavity compounds of sulfur. How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes connected in this way? To do this, you only need to use effective method- heating. Be sure to remember simple thing: sulfur, and especially its vapors - poison! Use a respirator without fail, and if possible, then a gas mask! Sulfur heating process blowtorch will take a lot of time, so if you do not have funds personal protection respiratory organs, even if there is a good ventilation system, it is better not to start it at all. Health is more expensive!

So, we heat the sulfur. Periodically tap on the pipe until it begins to noticeably move. This suggests that the consistency of sulfur has changed and it has become viscous. The pipe is also very hot, so we clamp it with an adjustable wrench and, just as in the previous case, we pull it towards ourselves, loosening it. Everything, the bell is free!

After the pipe is taken out of the socket, it is necessary to clean it from the remnants of sulfur or kabolka. This is done with a chisel, screwdrivers and a chisel with a rubber mallet. Then everything inside is carefully wiped with a rag, especially the saddle of the bell, as the main working surface. The embossing process has been completed.

If the description of the process did not clarify everything, and you need to visually see how the minting takes place, then try to find a video on the Internet on how to mint cast iron sewer.

At overhaul bathroom one of the mandatory steps is to replace engineering communications. This process precedes the dismantling of the sewage system left after the construction of the house. AT modern houses making it pretty easy. But in the apartments of the old fund, you will have to work hard. Sewer pipes in them, as a rule, are made of cast iron, and sealed to last. How to remove them without disrupting the drainage system throughout the house - you can learn about this from this material.

The standard sewerage system in Soviet-built houses consists of the following elements:

• the main riser passing between the floors;
• shaped outlet (cross or tee) for connecting the riser to the main line inside the apartment;
• internal wiring.

The main riser is not a solid pipe, but a set of cast-iron sections, the length of each of which is equal to the height of the ceiling in the apartment. All of these sections are butted together. At the upper end, each has a socket into which the straight lower end of the shaped outlet is inserted. The latter is connected in the same way to the next section. All joints are securely sealed with either sulfur, or carbolic acid, or cement mortar.

Important! When dismantling the pipeline, the main difficulty is not to damage the socket of the section located below. It will remain in operation after replacing the riser section, so no cracks or chips should form in it.

The easiest way to dismantle

The ideal option for replacing sewer pipes is to negotiate with neighbors in the riser and replace the pipeline in several, if not all, apartments at once. In this case, there will simply be no difficulties with how to dismantle the cast-iron sewer. The riser can be sawn into pieces or, in extreme cases, gouged with a sledgehammer, without worrying about its safety.

Another good option is when the upstairs neighbors don't mind unblocking a hole in interfloor overlap between your apartments and work in your bathroom. In this scenario, you can remove the entire cast iron section up to the tee located on the floor above. But alas, it is not always possible to implement these options. The following is a plan of action for the most difficult variant- when the work area is limited to only one apartment.

We advise you to find out what breakdowns can occur with and how to fix them yourself.

Read: what are the benefits for bathrooms.

Stages of sewerage analysis

Dismantling sewer system in the apartment includes the following steps:

• preparatory work;
• removal of wiring inside the apartment;
• dismantling of the sewer riser;
• removal of fan outlet.

The last stage is the most responsible. But, as experienced plumbers say, the main thing during it is to act confidently and be patient. It will take a long time to carefully remove the tee/cross from the bottom section socket. The process usually takes 4-5 hours depending on what methods of sealing the pipes were used by the home builders.

What do you need to work

Before proceeding with dismantling, stock up necessary tools and overalls. As with any construction work, it is better to choose a robe that you will not be sorry to throw away after the end of the process. In addition, you should take care of personal protective equipment:

• gloves: rubber and fabric;
• goggles;
• a good breath filter or gas mask.

From the tools you will need:

• grinder saw with a set of discs for metal;
• chisel or thick screwdriver;
• sledgehammer or heavy hammer;
• crowbar / nail puller / puller;
• thin strong screwdriver;
• chisel;
• blowtorch or powerful building hair dryer.

These things will come in handy in any case. But besides this set, other tools may be required. This will depend on the progress of the work.

Tip: you do not need to start dismantling the sewer system alone. Be sure to find yourself an assistant for this event.

Preparatory stage

Before you start dismantling the cast-iron sewer with your own hands, you need to do a little preparation. Turn off the water in the apartment and disconnect all plumbing in the house from the drain pipe. Clear the area around the riser and intra-apartment wiring. In some houses, drainage pipes are recessed into the floor screed or hidden in niches in the wall. If this is the case, then you will have to work with a puncher to ensure free access to them.

Next, turn off the water throughout the riser. It would also be useful to warn all neighbors from the upper floors that plumbing work is being carried out in the apartment, and they should not use the sewer yet. Remove furniture, textiles and Appliances. If a water pipes in the apartment have already been replaced, you need to close them with a shield made of heat-resistant material so as not to damage them in the process. After that, you can start the main work.

We disassemble the internal wiring

This step usually takes the least time. It makes no sense to keep the pipeline inside the apartment intact, so it does not need to be disassembled. It is enough just to cut off the outlet leading to the bath, sink and other plumbing with a grinder, and then saw or split it into smaller pieces and take it out of the apartment.

Attention! The first cut should be made as close as possible to the outlet socket.

We dismantle the riser

Dismantling the riser must be carried out with extreme caution. First of all, you need to make a couple of horizontal cuts in the upper part of the pipe, at a distance of 10–15 cm from the ceiling. It is not necessary to cut the pipe completely, it is better to leave a 3–5 cm section intact. Then carefully knock out the ring that has turned out between the cuts with a sledgehammer.

Important! After this operation, it is worth plugging the rest of the pipe sticking out of the ceiling with rags and plastic wrap.

Next, the section is sawn from below at a distance of about half a meter from the tee / cross. After that, remove the clamps with which the pipe is attached to the wall. Then the section is chipped off along the saw line, removed from its place and removed from the room.

Analysis of the tee

The procedure for dismantling the tee / cross will depend on how its joint with the lower section of the sewer pipe is sealed. If cement is used as a sealant, the fan outlet is carefully loosened with a crowbar. In the process, you can try to break off and remove small pieces of cement putty with a narrow screwdriver. If the layer of cement is very thick, it is knocked down with a hammer and chisel. After removing the bulk of the putty, the cross is carefully removed from the socket.

Important! When chipping cement, you need to try so that its pieces do not fall down the riser.

If the tee is sealed with sulfur, to remove it, it is necessary to heat it for a long time with a blowtorch or a hair dryer. During the heating process, the sulfur putty will melt. The branch must be constantly loosened a little to speed up the melting process. As soon as possible, it is removed from the socket.

Attention! This procedure is accompanied by a very unpleasant odor. It is recommended to carry it out in a gas mask.

If the fan branch does not lend itself to any manipulation, it is simply cut off by a grinder at a distance of 5-6 cm from the lower socket. The rest of the riser is then cleaned, and new pipes are attached to it using special adapters.

Attention! The dismantling of a cast-iron sewer riser refers to plumbing work increased complexity. Sufficient experience with power tools and strict adherence to safety measures are required. Soberly assess your capabilities. In case of failure, you will flood the neighbors and, possibly, not at all with water, injure your hands, ruin your eyes, or start a fire.

It makes sense to change the riser only when new plastic pipes out of your bathroom. But usually neighbors do not give permission to carry out such work. Nevertheless, consider the option of replacing a standard sewer riser with a diameter of 100 mm with the replacement of a tee or cross located near the base of the floor, they look something like this:

1. Tee 2. Left cross 3. Right cross.

Necessary tools and materials:

1. Perforator;
2. Chisel, hammer;
3. Strong knife;
4. A small "Bulgarian";
5. 3-4 cutting discs with a diameter of 125 mm and 1 grinding;
6. Old chisel, Several screwdrivers of different widths, lengths and sharpness;
7. Goggles, respirator, headgear;
8. Steel wedge for breaking parts of a pipe made of cast iron;
9. two wrenches;
10. a large nail puller or small crowbar to use as leverage.
11. Pipe cutter for cast iron pipes. The use of such a pipe cutter will significantly speed up and simplify the process of dismantling the sewer, but such a pipe cutter is expensive, and is rarely used on the farm.
12. Old iron bucket half full cold water;

First, it is necessary to determine how the cast-iron parts were connected, first of all, a tee (1) or a cross (2,3) with a socket (fitting) of a pipe located in the lower ceiling. To do this, carefully clean the junction, usually it is above the floor level. But if you've ever made an additional screed or laid tiles on the floor, the connection may be below the level of the existing floor, in which case a hammer drill or chisel may be needed. Work with both a puncher and a chisel should be very careful not to damage the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling.

Docking could be done with caulking the seams with the usual cement-sand mortar, cement mortar, polymer cement mortar and - the worst option - filling the joint with sulfur. Using an old chisel or a sharp screwdriver, open the top layer of the seam between the tee (cross) and the shaped part of the pipe located in the lower ceiling to get to the sealant. If it is something hard to the touch and the chisel slides over the surface with an unpleasant squeak, reminiscent of the sound when you run a knife on glass, then you may very well have come across sulfur. To be sure, try to pick out a sample and try to set it on fire. If the scooped out sample ignites, burns with a blue flame and at the same time caustic gas is released, then you are out of luck - it is sulfur. Then you will need

Additional tools and materials:

1. Metal, but better asbestos shields for protection against open fire of flammable objects;
2. Gas burner or blowtorch:
3. Several gas masks, it is better not to undertake such work alone.

• Before starting work, it is necessary, if possible, to remove all flammable and breakable objects from the bathroom, dismantle the toilet bowl, and dismantle the pipes of the internal sewage system (if you have not already done so). If plastic water pipes (and it usually doesn’t happen otherwise) pass next to the sewer riser, then they should be securely covered with sheets of non-combustible material. If for some reason this cannot be done, then the pipes should be cut off and restored at the end of the work.
• If there are others above your apartment, then it is necessary to warn the neighbors so that they do not use the sewer during the work. How more apartments above you and the more pensioners and children live in them, the more difficult it is to do.
• Before starting work, empty your pockets of unnecessary things that interfere with normal work. Keys to the apartment mobile phone, a lighter, cigarettes can accidentally fall out of your pocket during work and, most unpleasantly, fall into the riser.

Work should be carried out in a respirator, headgear and goggles.

Work performance technology:

1. Cutting the riser.

Cut the pipe with a pipe cutter. If there is no pipe cutter, make two almost horizontal cuts along the perimeter of the pipe with a "grinder" at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from one another approximately in the middle of the riser. In this case, the conditional planes of the cuts should not be parallel, but converge on the edge of the pipe near the wall where you did not cut the pipe. It is not recommended to cut the pipe to the end, since the upper part of the pipe can sag and pinch the disk, while the disk, grinder, water risers, tile on the walls or your hands.

By driving a special wedge into the cuts on the right and left, you can separate and remove the cut ring. If you do not have a special wedge, then you can additionally make two vertical cuts on the ring that appears after making horizontal cuts. Again, it is advisable not to cut the cuts to the end, so that the cut piece of pipe does not fall into the sewer. Then, using a screwdriver or chisel, carefully break out the cut piece so that it does not fall into the sewer, and knock out the remaining pieces of the ring with a hammer.

Close the hole in the pipe with a wedge of rags.

2. Trimming the top of the pipe.

Cut the top piece of pipe to the estimated height. For later installation plastic sewer you need to leave a piece of pipe coming out of top floor with a height equal to the height of the fitting to be pressed during installation. Determine the required height, make a cut with a "grinder" (if there is no pipe cutter) around the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the notch plane is as perpendicular as possible to the pipe itself. If you stick near the notch line masking tape so that the end of the adhesive tape exactly overlaps the beginning, then you will thus get a line perpendicular to the axis of the pipe and greatly simplify the task.

Sharply, with a blow, press the bottom of the pipe towards the wall. Cast iron is a brittle material and should crack at the narrowest point, where you did not cut the pipe with a grinder. Here, in addition to skill, strength is also required - a one and a half meter piece of thick-walled cast iron is quite heavy. The success of this operation depends on the depth of the cut and on the distance of the pipe from the wall, the farther the pipe is from the wall, the easier it is to do. If the pipe is cut at least three-quarters of the perimeter, and the cut bottom of the pipe is at least 3 cm from the wall, then everything should end successfully. In rare cases, when the pipe is located closer to the wall, an incision should be made 10 - 15 cm below the established mark. Then dismantle the lower piece of the sewer pipe using a special wedge, and only then make an incision in the marked place. From the bottom cut, the pipe is carefully cut upwards, then the resulting piece is cut horizontally along the mark, each cut sector is removed. The last piece of the pipe, located near the wall, is cut "from the inside" of the pipe by a "grinder" without a protective casing.

Preparation for installation of the upper part of the pipe. "Bulgarian" with grinding disc the cut of the pipe is trimmed and a conical chamfer is removed around the entire perimeter.

3. Removal of the lower piece of cast-iron pipe from the socket, which is concreted into the floor, if the joint is not filled with sulfur.

The lower section of the sewer riser usually consists of several parts or fittings. The design may include a cast-iron revision, a coupling, an expansion pipe, etc. First, check the strength of the connection. To do this, try to download upper part pipes. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the lower socket. If the pipe wobbles even a little, you are in luck - carefully pull out all the dangling parts. If the tee (cross) "moves" at least a little at the joint, then you can gently loosen it (it) and remove it with the help of a crowbar or a nail puller. If the tee or cross is fixed very rigidly, you need to clear the joint to the maximum depth, periodically checking the possibility of rocking. If the width of the joint allows, then you can use a puncher with a thin drill, preferably without a victorious tip. The solution at the joint is carefully hollowed out along the perimeter, the remains of the solution are removed with a screwdriver or chisel. The worst option is if there is almost no seam and the tee (cross) is held very firmly. In this case, you can try to clear the seam with a piece of old canvas for metal. But if you feel that this does not give a result, and are determined to change the tee (cross), then there is only one thing left - cut the tee (cross) 2-3 cm above the socket. Close the hole in the riser with a wedge of rags; for insurance, tie the rags with a rope so that the pipe cuts do not fall into sewer riser. Then, carefully working with a "grinder" with removed protection, as much as possible cut through the pipe cut remaining in the socket under different angles inclination of the disk without damaging the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling. Remove the remains of the pipe inside the socket using a special wedge.

4. Removal of a tee or cross, if the joint is filled with sulfur.

The tee or cross itself is not cut off, but you need to completely cut off the large socket of the cross or tee with a diameter of 100 mm, this will allow you to put the working part of the blowtorch into the pipe, and thereby ensure the necessary heating of the pipe. A shield made of asbestos or metal is laid on top of the pipe. This will allow you to adjust the draft in the riser. If there are through holes in the lower ceiling near the socket, for example, left after the installation of a water pipe, then through these holes the molten sulfur can enter the bathroom of the lower apartment, and in the worst case, on the neighbor's head. To avoid conflict situations such holes must be sealed with a gypsum or cement-sand mortar before starting work; in extreme cases, for very small gaps, you can use mineral wool. It is advisable to plug the riser with a wedge of non-combustible material so that as much as possible less sulfur got into the stand. Warming up is desirable to perform evenly, and as often as possible to change the direction and angle of the torch. With sudden heating, even a whole bell can burst, if you hear a loud bang, you know you succeeded, although there is nothing to congratulate here. This does not happen often, only if the pipe was cast from low quality cast iron. However, if the width of the groove allows, then before starting work it is recommended to drill the sulfur fill as much as possible with a drill without a winning tip, you can also use a drill with long drill to relieve potential stress. When heated, molten sulfur will flow into the riser or pour out. When cooled, sulfur quickly hardens. Hardened pieces should preferably be removed to the side, away from open flames. It is not necessary to use a gas mask before the sulfur ignites. But remember that with strong heating, the sulfur melt can boil in a closed volume and splash out, so safety glasses are necessary when working with a gas burner or blowtorch. From time to time, check the mobility of the tee (cross) by swinging or hammering from different sides. As soon as the backlash appears, stop heating and pull out the tee either after swinging it, lift it up with your hands, or grab it with two adjustable wrenches. The edges of the tee (cross) at the point of capture can break, so you need to be careful.

If burning sulfur remains on the tee (cross), then lower the tee into an iron bucket of cold water. Clean the inside of the pipe socket in the lower ceiling from the remnants of sulfur, cable, soot with an old chisel or a sharp, strong knife.

Most old houses have sewer networks made of cast iron, sometimes steel pipes. Over time, they become unusable, rust and leak. From these leaks in the apartment appears bad smell. At an opportunity, residents change them to metal-plastic or plastic materials. Previously, pipes were connected using cement mortar, twine, sulfur, cabels. old pipeline difficult to dismantle. To do this, you need to have a great desire, tools and patience.

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Dismantling of old cast iron sewer pipes

To decide how to disconnect the cast-iron sewer pipes, you need to carefully examine them and draw up a small work plan. If to be complete replacement pipes, the old ones can simply be smashed with a hammer and take out the trash. This is easy to do, because cast iron is very brittle. If you need to disassemble and replace only part of the pipes, you will have to work carefully and slowly. It is necessary to turn off the water supply to the apartment, otherwise the drains will enter the sewer. The following work is carried out in several stages:

• part of the riser below the connection is cut off by a grinder;
• the cut piece is separated from the socket;
• if it is not possible to pull out a piece, you need to warm up the joint.

Working with cast iron is traumatic, so it is necessary to use personal protective equipment: mittens or gloves, goggles, special clothing.

Tools needed to remove pipes

To remove old pipes, you need to prepare some tools and materials. Regardless of the pipe connection methods, you will need:

• grinder for cutting out individual elements of the pipeline;
• cutting and grinding discs;
• gas burner or blowtorch for heating joints;
• hammer and screwdrivers;
• chisel;
• pipe wrench;
• respirator and goggles for disassembling sulfur-filled joints;
• perforator;
• pipe cutter;
• nail puller;
• steel wedge or chisel;
• pliers;
• bucket for water.

After their preparation, you can begin to dismantle the system.

How to dismantle a cast iron sewer

When the sewer system fails, it needs to be repaired or replaced. In this case, it is necessary to caulk the joints. Without this, it is impossible to dismantle the system or part of it. The technology of chasing is used in each case is different. It depends on the materials with which the joints were sealed. Previously used as a seal:

• cement;
• hot sulfur.

The old sewer is more difficult to disassemble. Over the years, rust and deposits appear at the joints. Without work experience, it is better to entrust this matter to specialists. If you decide to do the work yourself, you need to determine the degree of its complexity. To do this, with a hammer with a rubber or wooden tip tap the joints and determine the method of their sealing. The cement is dyed gray colors, sulfur - to yellow. They are trying to break the pipe. If this can be done, the seam is made using cement mixture. If not, the seam is made in gray.

Dismantling of pipes connected with cement and cable

Cast iron - durable material. Therefore, sewer risers were built from it in multi-storey buildings. It serves for decades, it is good to paint it. But durability is a disadvantage when dismantled. It is better to use discs for the grinder with a size of 230 mm. You may need a hacksaw with a few spare blades. Work order:

1. To begin with, you should block the access of water to the apartment and agree with the neighbors that they also do not use water for some time.
2. release workplace and disconnect the drain pipes.
3. Particular attention is paid to the toilet. Previously, it was connected using cement mortar. It is unlikely that such a toilet will be removed, it will have to be broken.

Start chasing with a hammer and chisel. The riser pipe must be cut in several places. They retreat 2-4 cm from the lower socket and make an incision with a grinder. It will not be possible to completely cut the pipe, so you can use a hacksaw. Attempting to chip off an uncut section runs the risk of chipping off part of the bell, and this should not be done. A cut is also made from above, then a piece of pipe is removed.

frozen cement mortar removed with a hammer and chisel in small pieces. The work is carried out with care in order to keep the lower socket intact. If a cable was used during the installation of the riser, you need to get it with pliers and clear the place of cement.

At the bottom of the riser is a cross. It is removed with a hammer and screwdriver. It is necessary to knock on the body of the cross with a hammer for some time and try to loosen it. After that, the tool is inserted into the resulting opening, the tee is hooked and removed.

Chasing pipes connected with sulfur

Recognizing the presence of sulfur in the seam is simple. You need to bring the flame of a blowtorch or gas burner and heat up the seam. If there is sulfur in it, it will start to melt and emit unpleasant odors. Work is recommended to start from the far corner. The cross, connected to the riser, is heated with a blowtorch and loosened. It is more convenient to work together. One person warms up the seam, the other shakes the structure. Don't forget to wear protective gloves.

After loosening the structural element and melting the substance, it is necessary to pull the cast-iron pipe out of the socket and clean the place of sulfur residues. After completing all the work, allow the pipe to cool. When performing work, you must use a respirator or gas mask so as not to breathe sulfur fumes. Special work clothes should also be used. Compliance with safety regulations when working with open fire is mandatory. Then any branch pipe is removed without any problems.

How to cut a cast iron sewer pipe

To work with the riser, you need to mark it. Marks are made at a distance of about a meter from the floor and 10 cm from the ceiling. In these places, you need to cut the riser pipe. First, an incision is made with a grinder. It is not necessary to cut to the end, it is better to leave a gap, which then breaks. With the help of a stepladder, they climb up and make an incision there. It is better to make cuts at some angle to each other. The dropped wedge is removed, the remaining jumper is broken with hammer and chisel blows. At the same time, one person supports the pipe so that it does not fall.

After removing the main part of the riser, the remainder is removed from the socket. If it does not lend itself, you need to make several longitudinal cuts and loosen the piece. He will get away with no problem. If you can’t cut the structure yourself, you will have to invite specialists.

What to do in case of unsuccessful dismantling

Cutting cast iron pipes better grinder. Working with a hacksaw takes a lot of time and effort. If the dismantling was unsuccessful, do not be upset. It is possible to connect plastic and cast iron pipes with a special adapter. If the riser is close to the wall, it will not be possible to cut it with a grinder to the end. Then the incision is made to half the diameter. The pipe must be given a rotational motion so that it bursts. If the residue is not removed from the lower socket, it is necessary to make longitudinal cuts in it.

After removing the old pipes, the places in the sockets are cleaned of the remnants of cement, sulfur or kabolka. After thermal exposure, you need to give the pipes time to cool. It is better to close the hole in the riser with a rag so that debris does not fall into it. The rag is tied to something so that it does not fall down. The cable is removed with a screwdriver or a wire hook. You can pull its end with pliers and unwind the old sealing winding.

Sulfur is removed by heating up to several hundred degrees. Visually, this is determined by the redness of the cast iron and the appearance of a suffocating smell. In this case, it is necessary to use protective equipment: a gas mask or a respirator, gloves or mittens, work clothes. The pipe is clamped with keys of the appropriate size and swung.

If it is not possible to immediately determine the method of connecting the sewer elements, you just need to break off a small piece of putty with a screwdriver and a hammer and set it on fire. Sulfur will burn with a steady flame and will begin to emit a characteristic odor. When burning out old sulfur from the seams, fire safety rules must be observed. Fire hazardous objects must be taken out of the room or covered with screens made of metal sheets or asbestos.

If the sewer is simply clogged, it is not necessary to change the pipes. Enough to clean the system. This is done with a rubber plunger. If it does not help, you need to try to pull the cork out of the garbage into the sink. If this does not help, the sink siphon is disassembled, hardened accumulations of dirt are removed from it. You can use cleaning solutions. They are poured into the sink and left for a few minutes. After that, the residues are washed off with hot water.

When repairing, many people try to replace all outdated communications at once. It turns out that the most difficult thing to work with is cast iron sewer pipes that need to be dismantled. Previously, they were connected using cement, sulfur or aluminum. It turns out that the system was carried out for centuries. But now the end of the century has come. And with that, the hard work begins.

At first glance, it may seem that removing cast iron pipes is very easy. But here you need to work smart. Indeed, by applying too much force, you can damage the riser, which combines several apartments at once. In this case, the anger of the neighbors is inevitable. Costs, time and a lot of work will begin.

Before you start dismantling the old cast-iron pipe, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules:

1. turn off the water supply in the house;
2. remove the hose from drain tank on the toilet;
3. clean the toilet carefully;
4. remove from the premises all devices and objects that may interfere with the performance of work;
5. cast iron is a brittle material. Pipes that are far from the riser can be broken with a hammer;
6. removal of pipes that directly fit the riser;
7. cuffs are installed on the bell. First, the socket is cleaned of lubricants.

Dismantling of cast iron pipes

So how to cut cast iron pipes, let's try to figure it out. If cast iron pipes were previously connected with sulfur, then the task is not an easy one. But even here there is advice on how to disassemble cast-iron pipes. Like any other substance, sulfur must be destroyed under the influence of something. And this "something" is open fire. If sulfur is heated with a blowtorch, it becomes viscous. So disassembling the pipes is very easy.

Open flames must be used carefully so as not to start a fire. In addition, when the pipes are heated, sulfur dioxide will be released from the joints. Therefore, protective measures must be taken own health. You can heat the connection for several hours. In order not to suffocate during this time, you need to wear a gas mask. Not bad if there is a bucket of water nearby in case something catches fire.

Dismantling instructions

It is best to start work on the dismantling of pipes that are located remotely from the riser. Here, a hammer and chisel will help to get the job done very quickly, since cast iron is a material that is brittle and cannot withstand blows.

It is important to use a rubber hammer or with a polymer nozzle. The steel hammer will crush the cast iron into small pieces that can fall into the riser. Further, a congestion will begin to form there, which will be very difficult to eliminate.

Work with a hammer and chisel continues until it comes to the tee, which leads to the riser. Then you can try to loosen the cross by hand. But you can completely leave the section of the cross. However, experts recommend removing cast iron from the house to the maximum.

Work on heating pipes is carried out quickly by two people. One person can heat the pipes with a lamp, and the other can remove the softened sulfur with a knife. When a large number of sulfur will be removed from the pipes, the cross will calmly separate from the riser. If it is not possible to completely pull out the tee, it can be cut off with a grinder. The main thing is not to damage the riser.

Problems

It is most difficult to remove many cast-iron pipes at once. It must be remembered that after removing the old pipes, you need to connect the cast iron and plastic. A pipe made of cast iron is cut off by a grinder.

*VChShG - ductile iron with nodular graphite

But how to cut the pipe if there is no grinder? A simple hacksaw is taken for metal and the pipe is cut off. Note that such work will take a lot of time and you need to be prepared for this.

If it was not possible to cut off the pipe, then do not be upset. Today at construction stores you can find an adapter from plastic to cast iron. Before connecting the plastic adapter and the cast iron pipe, you need to clean the surface for connection. Sulfur is removed by heating. The job can take over an hour just to anneal the sulfur. That's why it pays to be patient. When the surfaces are ready, you can begin to connect.

In extreme cases, a special cutter is used to cut the cast-iron pipe. This is oxy-fuel cutting. But it is worth noting that only a professional can perform such work. It is not recommended to use the cutter on your own just because carelessness can damage not only the riser, but also other plumbing elements that should still last a long time. When working with a cutter, gas will be released, which is harmful to the body.

The technology of using the cutter is quite complicated. The pipe is affected by a flame (thin). A tube of hardened steel is taken. One end of it is heated to a temperature of 1400 degrees. This can be done welding machine or soldering torch. Further, oxygen is let through the tube, which, when ignited, at the outlet is 2000 degrees. This is enough to melt the iron.

Obviously, such work can not be carried out at home without special equipment and experience. Besides, it's dangerous. However, this way of cutting cast iron is considered more "exotic" than practical. Where to get faster an ordinary grinder with an abrasive disc and cut off the cast iron sewer pipe. The main thing is that a minimum of time will be spent on the procedure, and the seam will turn out to be perfectly even.

When working with a hammer, chisel, hand-held electrical appliances, you need to be extremely careful. Fragments of cast iron, when broken, can bounce in different directions. It is recommended to protect open areas body, especially the face and eyes.

When working with a hacksaw, there is practically no danger, but you will have to work for a very long time. Therefore, this method of dismantling the old cast-iron pipe is considered ineffective.

Once again, it should be noted that it is advisable to entrust the work to professionals who have right tool and experience. This is the only way to protect yourself from extra costs and headaches associated with the repair and replacement of sewers. The only thing that can be done is to pay tribute to the past, namely the reliability and quality of cast iron.